Thanks for the fire safety information. My uncle almost lost his shop from a rag fire that ignited just as he was about to lock up his shop for the night. He put it out and placed the barrel containing the rags outside. If he had left a few minutes earlier, it would have been the end of his woodworking dreams. Your right, that the potential threat is rarely mentioned by anyone on the "Tube."
I have been learning a lot from your videos. I'm currently doing a guitar building course (12 weeks in) and am about 80% the way through my first guitar - an electric, Flying-V - and I've fallen in love with the craft. I haven't been so enamored with something since I starting playing guitar some 35 years ago. I have a lot more to learn but I'm so grateful for resources like your channel.
Thanks so much for explaining the difference between luster and sheen. Very useful. I'm "old school" I still use Tru Oil. How would you compare it to the Tung oil system you are using in the video?
Looks great already, that stuff looks like it really fills the grain, at least on camera. I wonder if you can mix it with sanding dust and fill mahogany with it.
Thanks Chris, I've recently become very interested in these types of finishes. I look forward to the next installment. Do you have links to the products?
I am working on a project with a walnut burl top. I think you can thin the topcoat with spirits and use it as sealer or would that affect the end finish luster. I’m currently building up coats of truoil to produce a flat finish. I am likely to go to the Sutherland Welles product. THANK YOU for all you do. I have learned a lot from you.!!
Thanks for the info. I won’t try thinning the truoil. There are instructions with the Sutherland Welles product to cut the high gloss with various mixtures of mineral spirits to achieve various levels of gloss . Thanks again sensei!
I've enjoyed watching your finishing process. You have inspired me to finish a couple of guitars instead of sending them off to be sprayed: 1) roasted maple/pau ferro neck with a mahogany body 2) pau ferro/cocobolo neck on a swamp ash body I've perused the Sutherland Welles website and see a dizzingying array of PTO options. Their customer service rep suggested their Murdoch's line for an electric guitar due to its hardness. I am inclined towards the Botanical line for its non VOC qualities. Given your experience with the Wiping Varnish and Botanical lines, would you have a preference of one over the other for a sealer and oil?
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for that helpful tip. I'm also concerned about odor, generally. Is it your experience that both lines are odor free once cured?
@@derekyip7627 I assume you are using the finishing resin and not the epoxy. The bubbles you see after mixing should disappear when you spread it onto the surface.
@@HighlineGuitars yes, finishing resin , i use it for RC planes before, and on the guitar, the crack and colour was repaired then i mix and spread the epoxy on the guitar, after dried, I start to sand it with 1500 grid sand paper and found it got a lot of tiny like impact crater on the surface, just like the surface of the moon 🌝🌛🌛, then I gave it up, wash them out with thinner, then lacquer again..... finally,. LOL 🤣🤣🤣
Oh ! You know TUNG oil ???? In chinese we have an old say : tung oil bottle would only put tong oil in, that means a person would never change his/her bad behaviour.
Chris, once again I'm really enjoying the build and looking forward to rest of the series :) If u have time, I have a quick question: I bought a prs style guitar kit (set neck) and one idea I had was to make a countered heel joint (similar to the one on this build). Is this a bad idea? I would love the comfort of it, but I don't want to end up with a weak joint. If you have any advice on how to do this, or know of any videos that could help with this I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks man, keep being awesome 🎸 🤘🔥
This is a neck through so a lot of wood can be carved away without compromising the neck to body joint. I had to be careful not to expose the bottom of the neck pickup pocket. With a set neck kit, you have to be careful with how much wood you carve away. There has to be enough body wood under the neck to support it adequately.
Your videos are amazing, wood natural finish is my favorite but can we use a flat black paint with the poly Tung oil? I purchased the products and I have a guitar that doesn’t have very nice wood, I was curious if I can apply a solid color and if so what brand and type of solid color would I use that will work with them Wiping varnish sealer and the other 2 products
Thanks for the fire safety information. My uncle almost lost his shop from a rag fire that ignited just as he was about to lock up his shop for the night. He put it out and placed the barrel containing the rags outside. If he had left a few minutes earlier, it would have been the end of his woodworking dreams. Your right, that the potential threat is rarely mentioned by anyone on the "Tube."
I have been learning a lot from your videos. I'm currently doing a guitar building course (12 weeks in) and am about 80% the way through my first guitar - an electric, Flying-V - and I've fallen in love with the craft. I haven't been so enamored with something since I starting playing guitar some 35 years ago. I have a lot more to learn but I'm so grateful for resources like your channel.
Great to hear! Thanks @Textra1
You just sold me on the process!
Thanks Chris! Always so helpful!
Absolutely beautiful work you do Chris!
That carpet you have on your bench must be very clean! 😉
Vacuumed after every grit.
Thanks so much for explaining the difference between luster and sheen. Very useful. I'm "old school" I still use Tru Oil. How would you compare it to the Tung oil system you are using in the video?
I like PTO better because I know what's in it!
Looks great already, that stuff looks like it really fills the grain, at least on camera. I wonder if you can mix it with sanding dust and fill mahogany with it.
You can wet sand it in and do just that.
Thanks Chris, I've recently become very interested in these types of finishes. I look forward to the next installment. Do you have links to the products?
I am working on a project with a walnut burl top. I think you can thin the topcoat with spirits and use it as sealer or would that affect the end finish luster. I’m currently building up coats of truoil to produce a flat finish. I am likely to go to the Sutherland Welles product. THANK YOU for all you do. I have learned a lot from you.!!
You can't get a flat finish with Tru Oil.
Thanks for the info. I won’t try thinning the truoil. There are instructions with the Sutherland Welles product to cut the high gloss with various mixtures of mineral spirits to achieve various levels of gloss . Thanks again sensei!
I've enjoyed watching your finishing process. You have inspired me to finish a couple of guitars instead of sending them off to be sprayed:
1) roasted maple/pau ferro neck with a mahogany body
2) pau ferro/cocobolo neck on a swamp ash body
I've perused the Sutherland Welles website and see a dizzingying array of PTO options. Their customer service rep suggested their Murdoch's line for an electric guitar due to its hardness. I am inclined towards the Botanical line for its non VOC qualities. Given your experience with the Wiping Varnish and Botanical lines, would you have a preference of one over the other for a sealer and oil?
I like the wiping varnish because it dries so fast. The botanical formula dries slower (in my experience) plus it has a strong citrus odor.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for that helpful tip. I'm also concerned about odor, generally. Is it your experience that both lines are odor free once cured?
@@pepelemofo Yes. In fact, that's how you know when it's cured. No odor means it's done.
@@HighlineGuitars Very good. I think I will try the wiping varnish as you have had such good results.
Were the sample sizes of the finishes enough for you complete the whole guitar?
Yes.
Definitely easier than a polyurethane finish. Do you get much push back from customers on using a oil finish?
Not at all.
Great ! And i have a question, how to remove the bubbles in zpoxy ?
I never get bubbles in Z-Poxy.
@@HighlineGuitars how ? LOL 🤣🤣 I found it generates a lot of bubbles 💭 when I start stiring it, LOL 🤣🤣 , thanks 🙏
@@derekyip7627 I assume you are using the finishing resin and not the epoxy. The bubbles you see after mixing should disappear when you spread it onto the surface.
@@HighlineGuitars yes, finishing resin , i use it for RC planes before, and on the guitar, the crack and colour was repaired then i mix and spread the epoxy on the guitar, after dried, I start to sand it with 1500 grid sand paper and found it got a lot of tiny like impact crater on the surface, just like the surface of the moon 🌝🌛🌛, then I gave it up, wash them out with thinner, then lacquer again..... finally,. LOL 🤣🤣🤣
Oh ! You know TUNG oil ???? In chinese we have an old say : tung oil bottle would only put tong oil in, that means a person would never change his/her bad behaviour.
Chris, once again I'm really enjoying the build and looking forward to rest of the series :)
If u have time, I have a quick question: I bought a prs style guitar kit (set neck) and one idea I had was to make a countered heel joint (similar to the one on this build).
Is this a bad idea? I would love the comfort of it, but I don't want to end up with a weak joint.
If you have any advice on how to do this, or know of any videos that could help with this I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks man, keep being awesome 🎸 🤘🔥
This is a neck through so a lot of wood can be carved away without compromising the neck to body joint. I had to be careful not to expose the bottom of the neck pickup pocket. With a set neck kit, you have to be careful with how much wood you carve away. There has to be enough body wood under the neck to support it adequately.
@@HighlineGuitars ok right, I'll just be careful and do a little at a time lol
Your videos are amazing, wood natural finish is my favorite but can we use a flat black paint with the poly Tung oil? I purchased the products and I have a guitar that doesn’t have very nice wood, I was curious if I can apply a solid color and if so what brand and type of solid color would I use that will work with them Wiping varnish sealer and the other 2 products
I don't know. I would never do that. When I paint a guitar a solid color, I use a clear lacquer topcoat, not oil.
Do you use a certain type of buffing cream or polish ? I was thinking about getting beeswax
No. They aren't necessary.