Nice work mate. I just did a DIY tele kit that I finished with RIT fabric dye, and then about nine coats of Tru Oil.... works like a charm. Great drying rack setup that you built.
Good vid, thanks for not editing mistakes. I use lacquer to finish and get good results but have been wanting to try this process that you demo here. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I try to leave my mistakes in because becoming good at anything doesn't mean that you don't make mistakes it means that you can move past them. Plus how good of a source of info could I possibly be if I expect that everything will go off without a hitch for the person trying to learn from me?
Nice bro. I'm doing a 1981 G&L F100 series 1 right now. I'm finalizing my last prep with 0000 steel wool. It's really smooth. Love your project, nice work. Los Angeles
Really like the look of seeing the various strips of wood. I have to work in my garage and have the same problem with dust settling on the guitar. I found a large box (top of box) that I can set over the guitar without it touching and that helps keep the dust off. Just a couple of holes cut in it for air. It’s the best I can do, but it helps.
Every little bit helps! My little cobbled together drying rack works OK for me as long as I'm careful to keep dust in the shop down on those days that i use it, so the dust doesn't get in when I open the door... eventually I may have to make a separate clean booth entirely but that's a big project for much later
Thanks, it's also handy because you can use it as a kind of stand when leaning the piece on the bench- I honestly only thought of it because I made the drying chamber from a cheap armoire, so the hangers were quick word-association lol
I just bought an old beat up MIM Fender Strat that I'm gonna restore/mod. My plan is to strip the black paint with the heat gun and then give it a natural wood look with Tru oil.
Cool video mate. Your drying area just given me a good idea for a temporary spray booth. A wardrobe like yours might be a bit small but it gave me the idea to look at those small plastic greenhouses, they are a bit bigger so could be perfect :)
Thank you! It has withstood usage over time as well, I'm still using it now and it's very handy for keeping the dust off of fresh finishes while they cure, not to mention keeping fumes out of my shop!
that was helpful, i suppose adding tru oil to a body someone started who knows how long ago should be fine. he did the pour a lot on way. i think this is more controlled, but i don't want to hit glossy, just emphasize the grain a little more and get that look started like quilted maple does.
Hi, What is the stain you used? Can you tell us which stains (brands & typess) you reccomend for using with Birchwood Casey Tru oil . I'm researching stains & getting all kinds of results (even with ones that should simply be compatible).
I'm glad you found this video helpful! I used Varathane classic penetrating wood stain for this project, and the color I used was Ipswitch Pine- it's quite subtle, just enough to 'age' the wood a bit and bring down the bright white color it had when raw. I can't speak to what other brands or stains may work best with this finish, but I know I haven't had a problem using that particular product. I do know that the Varathane classic is an oil-based stain, so other oil based stains may be better to start with
Question - when applying a coat, did you have an issue laying a wet side face down on the table? For example you apply to the front of the body, then flip it over to apply to the back. Does the tru oil smudge or come off?
I didn't have any issue with the set up that I utilize, using a wire hanger to prop most of the body up off the table keeps this problem 90% at bay and the last bit that was resting on the table gets a quick wipe to 'even it back out' before I hang the body in the drying rack. I don't ever give it drying time on the table so nothing sets during the time that it does make contact
Personally I don't think that the wood has nearly as much of an impact as it does on acoustic guitars. Finish even less so, a lighter finish will theoretically allow the body to resonate a little better but I don't necessarily think that even measurable differences there add up to audible differences. To me, fit and finish is all about playability and feel, while the wood used is about aesthetic and whether it's tough enough to withstand the tension and abuse it gets. Number one factor in tone on an electric will always be the pickups
I did have a few stray fibers, mostly because I was using scraps I cut from an old shirt rather than finding a decent lint-free cloth. That was actually the biggest problem that I had with this whole process and the lesson I took from it was to just buy some material that wouldn't shed for future sessions Thanks for watching, I'm glad you liked it
I haven't worked with Warmoth parts yet, so I'm not sure just how unprepped that is, and it all depends on what you are going for and what you have for a starting point. I would think that... Ash is probably going to need a grain fill or it will have the grain texture through the finish, if that's fine for you then go for it! I'm actually making a guitar right now that is meant to have a very rough finished look. and just doing some all-over sanding before applying the finish will make a big difference. If it's just got a rough sand from the factory then you'll have a pretty rough/rustic end product but if you take the time to sand it up even to like a 220 grit it will come out much smoother.
Hey, I really liked the video and the result. I want a natural finish on a swamp ash body, but I don't want it glossy. Do you think I should still use Tru Oil, and just less coats? Or something else maybe?
Very cool! I’ve made flutes using different scrap pieces with great success. What glue to you like? Trying Tru -oil for sure, over water-based stain. Awesome video!
i saw this bass? i think, in the background of the next vid and i think it was the guitar you put a logo on the headstock of, but you never just show us this lp style p bass you made. maybe play it so we can hear how it sounds.
Well, while it is tru (pun intended I guess) that it's pricier than many other options per ounce, and can't do the things that more advanced finishes can do- I think that there are a few things it has going for it. Given who it was made for, that is gunsmiths who have shops set up for metalworking more than woodworking, it is meant to be a (mostly) all-in-one solution which gives a few benefits to those of us either with small shops or those who are just starting to learn how to do any finishes more involved than a rattle can. Since it's a simplified product, someone starting with finishing does not have to buy a finish, plus a solvent, plus 'the right' applicators, and a separate hardener, and measuring devices to get the mix right, or any of many other things that they might not have and which may be a barrier to entry for finer finishes to the hobbyist It's more expensive per ounce, sure. But a bottle of tru oil and a rag costs less than buying a whole new set of tools and containers and finishes/hardeners/solvents to someone who has none of that to start with. All the above also applies to the simplified process, a beginner does not need to learn how to mix and work with 30 steps of a finishing product- they can learn the fewer steps involved in tru oil, then move forward to adding complexity as they try other finishes on a future project. One can get practice and build skill in just a few parts of the process, and that can give them the confidence or a basis of knowledge that they can build on as they learn to use other finishes Basically, if it gets someone into doing a project rather than being too broke or too apprehensive about it, I'm here for it. I've moved on past using tru oil at this point (for the reasons you stated, basically. It's too expensive and I don't get as fine a control over it vs other products) but it was a valuable tool on the way to my building of a set of techniques and products in my shop that now allows me to do more. Or at least that's al how it worked out for me. That being said, other products can be that same entry level finish for a beginner- this is just the route that I took.
@@danpejril8337 For my last few projects I've been finishing with shellac. I LOVE the look of shellac and enjoy the application process, but due to its nature of being susceptible to damage from alcohol spills I am debating whether I will move on to adding a clear coat of poly on top for durability, or if I'll just move fully to a poly finish with an HVLP paint gun setup. I'll probably work through from the hybrid version to the full poly, as I build up the proper tools and experience to go full poly.
This is the most informative Tru Oil finish vid on youtube. So many little secrets and pertinent details shared. Excellent.
Nice work mate. I just did a DIY tele kit that I finished with RIT fabric dye, and then about nine coats of Tru Oil.... works like a charm. Great drying rack setup that you built.
Nice job. I like that you left it clear so we can see the body construction.
Thank you! I couldn't resist with a body made of 2x4s
Man, I've watched a lot of videos on tech, and you did it in seconds, adding that first coat...wow factor 100%...RocknRollflat5
Good vid, thanks for not editing mistakes. I use lacquer to finish and get good results but have been wanting to try this process that you demo here. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I try to leave my mistakes in because becoming good at anything doesn't mean that you don't make mistakes it means that you can move past them.
Plus how good of a source of info could I possibly be if I expect that everything will go off without a hitch for the person trying to learn from me?
The best explanation and process video I’ve seen on this subject ,
Nice bro. I'm doing a 1981 G&L F100 series 1 right now. I'm finalizing my last prep with 0000 steel wool. It's really smooth. Love your project, nice work. Los Angeles
Really like the look of seeing the various strips of wood. I have to work in my garage and have the same problem with dust settling on the guitar. I found a large box (top of box) that I can set over the guitar without it touching and that helps keep the dust off. Just a couple of holes cut in it for air. It’s the best I can do, but it helps.
Every little bit helps! My little cobbled together drying rack works OK for me as long as I'm careful to keep dust in the shop down on those days that i use it, so the dust doesn't get in when I open the door... eventually I may have to make a separate clean booth entirely but that's a big project for much later
I just noticed how you're hanging the body to dry - by using a partial wire hanger - GREAT IDEA!!!! Very Smart!!!
Thanks, it's also handy because you can use it as a kind of stand when leaning the piece on the bench- I honestly only thought of it because I made the drying chamber from a cheap armoire, so the hangers were quick word-association lol
Very instructive video dude. I did a similar finish years ago so this helps folks to expect certain characteristics of the product.
I just bought an old beat up MIM Fender Strat that I'm gonna restore/mod. My plan is to strip the black paint with the heat gun and then give it a natural wood look with Tru oil.
This was incredibly helpful and thorough. Thank you!
Cool video mate. Your drying area just given me a good idea for a temporary spray booth. A wardrobe like yours might be a bit small but it gave me the idea to look at those small plastic greenhouses, they are a bit bigger so could be perfect :)
That's a great idea! I might have to consider it in the future myself
Good idea!
@@clutch2827 I got one and they are perfect mate. One about 4x3x1.5ft is great for hanging a couple of guitars 👍🏻
The drying rack is a great idea!!!
Thank you! It has withstood usage over time as well, I'm still using it now and it's very handy for keeping the dust off of fresh finishes while they cure, not to mention keeping fumes out of my shop!
Great video! Very easy to follow. Best I’ve seen. Thankyou 👍
Very informative. I'm trying to decide which to use - Polymerized Tung Oii or Tru-Oil. I'm guessing they are about the same.
Excellent video, with great tips! Thank you!
that was helpful, i suppose adding tru oil to a body someone started who knows how long ago should be fine. he did the pour a lot on way. i think this is more controlled, but i don't want to hit glossy, just emphasize the grain a little more and get that look started like quilted maple does.
Good coverage of all aspects thank you!
Glad you liked it, thanks for checking it out!
Hi, What is the stain you used? Can you tell us which stains (brands & typess) you reccomend for using with Birchwood Casey Tru oil . I'm researching stains & getting all kinds of results (even with ones that should simply be compatible).
I'm glad you found this video helpful!
I used Varathane classic penetrating wood stain for this project, and the color I used was Ipswitch Pine- it's quite subtle, just enough to 'age' the wood a bit and bring down the bright white color it had when raw.
I can't speak to what other brands or stains may work best with this finish, but I know I haven't had a problem using that particular product. I do know that the Varathane classic is an oil-based stain, so other oil based stains may be better to start with
Looks great, thank you for doing this video
Douglas fur? you mean 2x4? thats pretty cool idea. i always figured it was way too soft.
Question - when applying a coat, did you have an issue laying a wet side face down on the table? For example you apply to the front of the body, then flip it over to apply to the back. Does the tru oil smudge or come off?
I didn't have any issue with the set up that I utilize, using a wire hanger to prop most of the body up off the table keeps this problem 90% at bay and the last bit that was resting on the table gets a quick wipe to 'even it back out' before I hang the body in the drying rack. I don't ever give it drying time on the table so nothing sets during the time that it does make contact
On electric guitar, does the wood used and the finish have a little or a lot with tone???..RocknRollflat5
Personally I don't think that the wood has nearly as much of an impact as it does on acoustic guitars. Finish even less so, a lighter finish will theoretically allow the body to resonate a little better but I don't necessarily think that even measurable differences there add up to audible differences.
To me, fit and finish is all about playability and feel, while the wood used is about aesthetic and whether it's tough enough to withstand the tension and abuse it gets. Number one factor in tone on an electric will always be the pickups
Did you find using a dark fabric to polish with caused a problem with dark fibers? Great job. I like the drying cabinet. Thank you.
I did have a few stray fibers, mostly because I was using scraps I cut from an old shirt rather than finding a decent lint-free cloth. That was actually the biggest problem that I had with this whole process and the lesson I took from it was to just buy some material that wouldn't shed for future sessions
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you liked it
0:50 a Fan with a hvac filter zip tied.
hey, how long did this process take? great video, very informative!! :)
Looks great
Since you've done both, do you prefer shellac or Tru Oil?
I have a Warmoth ash HSS strat body, how good will Tru oil work on this body unprepped?
I haven't worked with Warmoth parts yet, so I'm not sure just how unprepped that is, and it all depends on what you are going for and what you have for a starting point. I would think that...
Ash is probably going to need a grain fill or it will have the grain texture through the finish, if that's fine for you then go for it! I'm actually making a guitar right now that is meant to have a very rough finished look.
and just doing some all-over sanding before applying the finish will make a big difference. If it's just got a rough sand from the factory then you'll have a pretty rough/rustic end product but if you take the time to sand it up even to like a 220 grit it will come out much smoother.
Hey, I really liked the video and the result. I want a natural finish on a swamp ash body, but I don't want it glossy. Do you think I should still use Tru Oil, and just less coats? Or something else maybe?
I bet you could knock any shine down with 000 steel wool.
Nice. With all that care about dust I'm surprised to see the cat wander through. Dander much?
Very cool! I’ve made flutes using different scrap pieces with great success. What glue to you like? Trying Tru -oil for sure, over water-based stain. Awesome video!
I'm just using good old Titebond 2
Glad you enjoyed the vid, thanks for checking it out!
i saw this bass? i think, in the background of the next vid and i think it was the guitar you put a logo on the headstock of, but you never just show us this lp style p bass you made. maybe play it so we can hear how it sounds.
Fair enough, I'll make it a point to make a video showing the complete bass
@@junc_musik right on. i can't wait.
I put together a video about this bass today, it's up now at ruclips.net/video/usOl3-wE5QY/видео.html
Well, Hello Dali!
WHAT UP SHANE
TruOil is an expensive JOKE. It is nothing more than over priced varnish.
Well, while it is tru (pun intended I guess) that it's pricier than many other options per ounce, and can't do the things that more advanced finishes can do- I think that there are a few things it has going for it.
Given who it was made for, that is gunsmiths who have shops set up for metalworking more than woodworking, it is meant to be a (mostly) all-in-one solution which gives a few benefits to those of us either with small shops or those who are just starting to learn how to do any finishes more involved than a rattle can.
Since it's a simplified product, someone starting with finishing does not have to buy a finish, plus a solvent, plus 'the right' applicators, and a separate hardener, and measuring devices to get the mix right, or any of many other things that they might not have and which may be a barrier to entry for finer finishes to the hobbyist
It's more expensive per ounce, sure. But a bottle of tru oil and a rag costs less than buying a whole new set of tools and containers and finishes/hardeners/solvents to someone who has none of that to start with.
All the above also applies to the simplified process, a beginner does not need to learn how to mix and work with 30 steps of a finishing product- they can learn the fewer steps involved in tru oil, then move forward to adding complexity as they try other finishes on a future project. One can get practice and build skill in just a few parts of the process, and that can give them the confidence or a basis of knowledge that they can build on as they learn to use other finishes
Basically, if it gets someone into doing a project rather than being too broke or too apprehensive about it, I'm here for it. I've moved on past using tru oil at this point (for the reasons you stated, basically. It's too expensive and I don't get as fine a control over it vs other products) but it was a valuable tool on the way to my building of a set of techniques and products in my shop that now allows me to do more.
Or at least that's al how it worked out for me. That being said, other products can be that same entry level finish for a beginner- this is just the route that I took.
What are you using now?
@@danpejril8337 WATERLOX … just as easy to use, and much more durable.
@@danpejril8337 For my last few projects I've been finishing with shellac.
I LOVE the look of shellac and enjoy the application process, but due to its nature of being susceptible to damage from alcohol spills I am debating whether I will move on to adding a clear coat of poly on top for durability, or if I'll just move fully to a poly finish with an HVLP paint gun setup. I'll probably work through from the hybrid version to the full poly, as I build up the proper tools and experience to go full poly.
@@junc_musik awesome, thank you for the information