did anyone else have to watch this twice because the first time they were too preoccupied with that bottle of tru oil and just waiting for him to knock it onto the ground?
I could never do this, I would have bumped and dropped that bottle of oil on the ground at least 5 times during the oil application. You my friend; have some skill.
You are a genius! The wet sanding with boiled linseed oil was the answer to all my problems. I've got a cheap chinese Les Paul that is my practice guitar for finishes. It's probably and inch smaller because of all the times I've sanded it down to try a new finish method. I've always had trouble with the end grain. I wasn't very brave with the grit, since I have a dyed-sunburst method that I'm trying, and I used 1200 grit with the linseed oil. It worked like a dream. Now it looks and feels like glass. Thanks for sharing your expertise with those that need it.
If you are doing a guitar, my question is, if you do the front and wait until dries and then do the back, would it leave a mark on the sides where you stopped and began?
Beautiful finish. That guitar looks amazing. I am curious about two things though: at the end you say that it looks almost as if it were lacquered, so I'm wondering why you choose to do this rather than lacquer it? Also, I don't know much about this product, but could you just apply lacquer over a couple coats of it, for example after the steel wool step? Or do you think that it would react?
Unfortunately, no. You can get some cheap random orbital buffers (safer for noobs to use anyway!) with a soft foam pad, with some polishing compound, and youre out 20$. You can hand buff, but that rarely if ever comes out as quality as a machine, your work time also moves from hours to weeks.
Hey there. I am about to start the finish on my guitar project. My question about tru oiling is should I be using it on the top only or the whole body/neck/head and everything. Secondly... should I be avoiding the binding? In my head it seemed like I should at least do the complete body and cover the binding too so there are no ridges or seems. Jake in AZ
I love your videos, thanks so much for your work! Question- after the first coat, how "transparent" was the tru-oil, or, how much "wood-feel" was there to the wood? I'm about to use tru-oil on a Goncalo Alves neck (which I politely request a luthier wood episode one!), and my main goal is to apply only enough to protect the wood and bring out its figure. I really, really want to maintain a relatively unfinished feel, similar to the Faded SG by Gibson, and other relic'd or generally un-finished necks. Since I play very frequently I just want to make sure it's protected from sweat and moisture.
Thank big D for such an informative video on tru oil. How much time do you reccomend waiting between subesequent layers of tru oil after the first? And how often do you reccomend doing the steel whool between layers? And how many layers total do u usually reccomend if finishing only with tru oil?
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits). What's Stand oil? Stand oil is linseed oil set in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500°+ for an extended period of time. It's thick, more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It’s not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for years and is available online or at good art supply stores, I’m an art conservator and I've been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. Unfortunately, so many people have been snowed by big companies and their "proprietary formulas." Look it up.
Sorry to rain on your parade but why use Tru-oil when there are far superior products out there? If one of my students brought in a rifle stock that he Tru-oiled I'd fail him.
i will be finishing a maple flame top guitar in a transparent blue burst. will truoil tint/tone the finish. also,can you hand buff?i don't have a power buffer.
The Company that brings you "Tru Oil" recommends balancing their products precariously when in use.Buy more when they fall to the ground and oil your floor, as there is more in stock.
I have a 2001 Gibson Les Paul Voodoo. I used to plat it religiously, so the face of the guitar has a lot of wear (you dont even want to know what the back / neck look like!) It's made of Swamp Ash, and essentially the wear has created somewhat "sticky" areas. I've cleaned it with polish, and every time I do I get a lot of grime coming off of it, but I'm starting to think it's because I'm actually removing the finish). Would this Tru-Oil product help restore the slick feel to the guitar, or not?
Those tops are gorgeous I use it on Maple necks. I heat it up and rub it in. Letting is dry overnight, steel wooling & then another coat. Five coats and a light buffing after the last coat tints the maple just right, the neck is protected & feels like butta. If it loses it's luster a few years later, add a couple of coats.
OK how many of you, like me, were holding your breath waiting for the bottle of Tru-Oil to fall off the sawhorse at the first coat. WOW! Thanks for posting this, I'm going to do a Tele soon and needed to know this. Ron
WOw this is great advice here. It's amazing how beautiful a project comes out when you put in some elbow grease. I love how tung oil doesn't leave dust nibs and hairs in your finish like poly does. It's also a bonus that the finished wood just begs to be caressed like a $3000 gun stock or a Taylor guitar. I've been using this tung oil that is made with orange peels, smells awesome! orangetungoil.com
Im planning to stain a LP top with diluted black ink, and make a dark red burst. Should i sand in between each app of Tru Oil? Also, for wet sanding, probs just use Water+Soap+ 600 grit. How long should i wait after till i can install electronics? Thanks
I use TruOil on my necks. I don't have a buffer so I final sand with 1400 to 2000 grit paper, then use a buffing compound and denim. My necks come out very shiny and slick. I don't like to leave them bare.
Have you tried a poly? There are some quite good ones that combine oil with poly. Think about this, what room in your home has the most moisture laden environment and the room most likely to be used as storage for guitars and such? Your bedroom. Yes lacquers are used but they are in the same category as oils. They look great for awhile until they yellow and provide absolutely no protection for the wood. Oh, and they smell bad and are harmful to breathe the vapors.
I've been a custom gun builder for close to 30 years and a large part of my business is refinishing and restoring gun stocks. I will admit that when restoring a very high dollar firearm $50,000+ value to original I will use 100 year old traditional methods to keep it stock but any other time the new chemicals are far superior in quality and durability and done right you can't tell the difference between the new and the old methods.
Scour RUclips, and google for tutorials. The single biggest factor(s) in the guitar building process (other than using good tonewoods of course..) are keeping everything centered, getting a proper neck angle, and the placement of the nut, frets, and bridge according to the scale length you've decided to use. There are other important things you need to have planned before starting, but like I said, google and youtube are better for info than me lol
Polys go on just as easy if not easier than oils glossy has better UV protection than semi but either is far superior for that as well as protection for the wood as well and is easily repaired. Urethanes are good too. A high quality marine spar varnish works quite well. BTW when you sand flat surfaces block sand please to keep out the ripples. Where I you I'd research how the high quality gun stock re-finishers go about it.
awesome video... looking to make my first guitar, and want it to be blue green burst. Here is my question, with the tru oil, the oil itself is somewhat a yellow/brown color, is there a finish out there that will stay clear? I want the colors to stay bright, and not a dull color... also, any tips in buffing the finish without s buffing wheel?
What kind of steel wool are you using? My guess is triple or quadruple 0? I can only find double 0 here but that looks to me to be way too coarse. Also, thanks a bunch for the wet sanding with boiled linseed oil! Is it possible to use pore filler before sanding/applying oil to get the same effect? Just curious what your experience is there. I guess you use linseed oil because tru oil gets tacky too quickly, and its one of the major components of tru oil anyway? Thanks for sharing :)
thanks for all the info. looks great. I remember reading somewhere that tru-oil and/or tung oil finishes need to be redone after a few years, is that true? thanks
I have some East Texas Black Walnut.. I sure would love a Telecaster Wall clock with music box that plays Rock around the Clock at Noon.. Wish I could show you a picture when the limbs were cut.
But you can lacquer under it - lac is a great sealer coat because as they say, it sticks to anything. Also, it's totally natural and safe. Use Everclear to thin it and you can be sure it's safe.
Maybe you could use a shellac sealnig coat first. That way it might not absorb so fast, but I know what you mean about absorbancy of end grain. Strangely I kind of like the smell of tru oil.
Basically finishing a guitar or gun stock is not that much different except with high quality gun stocks you have a much higher quality wood. It has to be for the strength.
my first is surely going to be oil finished. but can you stain the piece of wood and then oil it? or can oil only be used when there's nothing at all underneath it?
Thank you so much for your reply,if i use tru oil sealer before truoil gunstock finished is that a good idea?Because i saw truoil got some sealer and filler. too..cheers
Birchwood-Casey (makers of TruOil) suggests "wet sanding" the _first_ coat or two of oil, which creates its own grain filler slurry of oil and wood dust. messy, but it works really well and still doesn't look like any grain filler has been used. it's good for open-grained wood that sucks up a lot of oil, and helps the finish build up a lot faster. here's a good tip for storing TruOil: instead of peeling off the foil under the cap, just poke a hole in it with a pin. then when you're not using it, make sure it's capped tightly and store the bottle upside down. this keeps the oil from skinning over and it'll keep a lot longer. lastly, thought i'd share this link. there's a guy named Tom Pettingill that makes absolutely gorgeous lap steel guitars, and he only uses TruOil as his finish. the depth of shine that he gets out of it is absolutely amazing! here's a link to a photo gallery of his work: s302.photobucket.com/user/tompettingill/library/?sort=3&page=1
If I have no way of getting access to a buffer (and am short for cash), is there any other method you could suggest in order to get that nice polish on it?
Hello i have a little problem with true tung oil. I wiped the whole guitar with multiple coats. It is mahogany body with walnut top. Problem is that the mahogany edges and back are fine they repel water and work pretty well. Problem starts at the top.the topi is dried and everything but water is kinda nt repeled. When i buff itwith 0000 steel wal and then put a drop of water or sweat or something... it always leaves a satin spot on the walnut and it is not so easy to get it out. Only by buffing etc. Any clues what´s wrong with the walnut?
It's like a piece of tree that was made into a clock that a guy sold my grandma at work long ago. Interesting story really. The guy who made it and finished it wanted her to have it because he wanted to see how it held up up in a smoker's house. Odd and sad as far as health, but cool from an artists perspective :)
I have a Korina wood body, and I wanted to paint a small design on it. I heard from someone that they used acrylic paint than finished with the true oil over it...but I don't know how dark the body is going to be after I apply the tru oil...what do you thinik
I wasn't in the slightest bit worried about the bottle of tru oil being knocked over. It wasn't my bottle of trust oil. I have way too many things of my own to worry about. beautiful bit of Wood though.
where do u purchase the wood ad whom makes the actual building of the wood guitar 4 u. who does the buffing? how much do these cost u before electronics? thanks
Thank you for taking the time to do this video,I've never had anyne go through all the steps. I been doing it wrong. Ya I was watching the bottle to. LOL
I have no clue how you managed to not to have any orange peel. I do now probably seventh coat and I still do not manage to get even surface. is it the sanding phase before the tru oil? or you use some pores filler and sand to flat prior to coating?
You can do all sides at one time. Create a hanging stick, that mimics where the neck connects to the body. Screw it in with two screws and hang it. You can hold it by the hanging stick, or treat the front first and hold the body by the router holes.
it's ok to put your freshly oiled guitar body face down while you oil the back? Just wondering, because if it is, it'd make my job a lot easier :/ I assumed you'd have to have it hanging and be real delicate
thanks for the reply! what i mean is when i start this on my freshly sanded guitar, i'll put the first heavy coat on the top, let that dry, and then do the sides and the back the next day?
Want an awesome project guitar? Watch this video comment on it and subscribe! ruclips.net/video/C_Cn1i2nleQ/видео.html
I couldn't take my eyes off that bottle of Tru-oil.
I was just waiting to see if you knocked it off the sawhorse..
Terrence Weston I think the bottle gets more comments than that piece of wood!
Terrence Weston I would have for sure...
It filled me with such anxiety and I gasped at least twice.
my thoughts exactly!
Omg I thought the same thing...lol !
did anyone else have to watch this twice because the first time they were too preoccupied with that bottle of tru oil and just waiting for him to knock it onto the ground?
hehe, he did good though!
I could never do this, I would have bumped and dropped that bottle of oil on the ground at least 5 times during the oil application.
You my friend; have some skill.
i was a nervous wreck. i kept saying. put the lid on. put the lid on. i was sure it would fall. especially near the end of the first coat.
You are a genius! The wet sanding with boiled linseed oil was the answer to all my problems. I've got a cheap chinese Les Paul that is my practice guitar for finishes. It's probably and inch smaller because of all the times I've sanded it down to try a new finish method. I've always had trouble with the end grain. I wasn't very brave with the grit, since I have a dyed-sunburst method that I'm trying, and I used 1200 grit with the linseed oil. It worked like a dream. Now it looks and feels like glass. Thanks for sharing your expertise with those that need it.
@muttshirt....you nailed it...I was focused on the Tru-Oil bottle teetering on the edge of the sawhorse, just waiting for it to go!
If you are doing a guitar, my question is, if you do the front and wait until dries and then do the back, would it leave a mark on the sides where you stopped and began?
Holy crap, just squirting massive amounts of it on there like it's a fat stack of pancakes.
The wiping does not leave the brush marks. Buffing at the end gets it all good.
what kind of buffing compound did you use?
Beautiful finish. That guitar looks amazing. I am curious about two things though: at the end you say that it looks almost as if it were lacquered, so I'm wondering why you choose to do this rather than lacquer it? Also, I don't know much about this product, but could you just apply lacquer over a couple coats of it, for example after the steel wool step? Or do you think that it would react?
Brad, too bad he didn't reply to you Those were good questions.
Ok. Thank you for your reply.
Unfortunately, no. You can get some cheap random orbital buffers (safer for noobs to use anyway!) with a soft foam pad, with some polishing compound, and youre out 20$. You can hand buff, but that rarely if ever comes out as quality as a machine, your work time also moves from hours to weeks.
sidenote: 34K+ have watched this guy rub his wood. good on ya sir.
Hey there. I am about to start the finish on my guitar project. My question about tru oiling is should I be using it on the top only or the whole body/neck/head and everything. Secondly... should I be avoiding the binding? In my head it seemed like I should at least do the complete body and cover the binding too so there are no ridges or seems.
Jake in AZ
I love your videos, thanks so much for your work! Question- after the first coat, how "transparent" was the tru-oil, or, how much "wood-feel" was there to the wood? I'm about to use tru-oil on a Goncalo Alves neck (which I politely request a luthier wood episode one!), and my main goal is to apply only enough to protect the wood and bring out its figure. I really, really want to maintain a relatively unfinished feel, similar to the Faded SG by Gibson, and other relic'd or generally un-finished necks. Since I play very frequently I just want to make sure it's protected from sweat and moisture.
You are missing something..... an AK or Mosin stock.
Thank big D for such an informative video on tru oil. How much time do you reccomend waiting between subesequent layers of tru oil after the first? And how often do you reccomend doing the steel whool between layers? And how many layers total do u usually reccomend if finishing only with tru oil?
that bottle!!!
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits).
What's Stand oil?
Stand oil is linseed oil set in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500°+ for an extended period of time. It's thick, more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It’s not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for years and is available online or at good art supply stores, I’m an art conservator and I've been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. Unfortunately, so many people have been snowed by big companies and their "proprietary formulas." Look it up.
Sorry to rain on your parade but why use Tru-oil when there are far superior products out there? If one of my students brought in a rifle stock that he Tru-oiled I'd fail him.
i will be finishing a maple flame top guitar in a transparent blue burst. will truoil tint/tone the finish. also,can you hand buff?i don't have a power buffer.
Try Antique Oil Finish by Minwax. I have switched to that. Seems to dry faster and harder over time.
What’s that feeling called that makes you cringe and yell to a video like, “You’re going to knock that bottle off the board!!!” 😖
The Company that brings you "Tru Oil" recommends balancing their products precariously when in use.Buy more when they fall to the ground and oil your floor, as there is more in stock.
i would love to get into making guitars one day. but for someone who has no experience, any advice on getting into it?
too much man, waaaaay too much :\
Is it just me, or were you distracted and watching to see if he knocked over the bottle of Tru Oil?
Shoulda dyed it
haha!
Dude, you have WAY too much on for your first coat. It's meant to be applied in very thin coats
Does a guitar body need any other finish after the tru oil, like wax, laquer or whatnot?
Isn't tru oil also called gun stock oil? You must be one of THOSE people huh?
I have a 2001 Gibson Les Paul Voodoo. I used to plat it religiously, so the face of the guitar has a lot of wear (you dont even want to know what the back / neck look like!)
It's made of Swamp Ash, and essentially the wear has created somewhat "sticky" areas. I've cleaned it with polish, and every time I do I get a lot of grime coming off of it, but I'm starting to think it's because I'm actually removing the finish). Would this Tru-Oil product help restore the slick feel to the guitar, or not?
why do you switch to another oil for wet sanding, why not just use tru-oil for the wet sandingÉ
Should NOT do this in the winter months like I shouldn't with Lacquer?
Is this a question or comment? I am confused by this.
DO NOT get any of that on your fucking trainers lol :D
Those tops are gorgeous I use it on Maple necks. I heat it up and rub it in. Letting is dry overnight, steel wooling & then another coat. Five coats and a light buffing after the last coat tints the maple just right, the neck is protected & feels like butta. If it loses it's luster a few years later, add a couple of coats.
OK, now I got the confidence to use the product on my never ending project. Reckoning Day begins. Appreciate the video!
OK how many of you, like me, were holding your breath waiting for the bottle of Tru-Oil to fall off the sawhorse at the first coat. WOW! Thanks for posting this, I'm going to do a Tele soon and needed to know this.
Ron
Ok I'm inspired time to get to work......
Can you get a satin finish with Tru-oil? I'm looking to refinish a guitar, but am looking to get a thin, satin, open-pore look. Not thick and glossy.
Watch my video on velvit oil. It’s sweet
Absolutely Gorgeous!!!! How did you manage not knocking off the bottle of TruOil? My OCD was in full force watching this vid...LOL
WOw this is great advice here. It's amazing how beautiful a project comes out when you put in some elbow grease. I love how tung oil doesn't leave dust nibs and hairs in your finish like poly does. It's also a bonus that the finished wood just begs to be caressed like a $3000 gun stock or a Taylor guitar. I've been using this tung oil that is made with orange peels, smells awesome! orangetungoil.com
It has a wonderful smell I love smelling it
Do you not see the bottle? What’s the problem?
Im planning to stain a LP top with diluted black ink, and make a dark red burst. Should i sand in between each app of Tru Oil? Also, for wet sanding, probs just use Water+Soap+ 600 grit. How long should i wait after till i can install electronics? Thanks
I use TruOil on my necks. I don't have a buffer so I final sand with 1400 to 2000 grit paper, then use a buffing compound and denim. My necks come out very shiny and slick. I don't like to leave them bare.
Why am i watching Big D rub his wood?
Have you tried a poly? There are some quite good ones that combine oil with poly. Think about this, what room in your home has the most moisture laden environment and the room most likely to be used as storage for guitars and such? Your bedroom. Yes lacquers are used but they are in the same category as oils. They look great for awhile until they yellow and provide absolutely no protection for the wood. Oh, and they smell bad and are harmful to breathe the vapors.
I've been a custom gun builder for close to 30 years and a large part of my business is refinishing and restoring gun stocks. I will admit that when restoring a very high dollar firearm $50,000+ value to original I will use 100 year old traditional methods to keep it stock but any other time the new chemicals are far superior in quality and durability and done right you can't tell the difference between the new and the old methods.
Scour RUclips, and google for tutorials. The single biggest factor(s) in the guitar building process (other than using good tonewoods of course..) are keeping everything centered, getting a proper neck angle, and the placement of the nut, frets, and bridge according to the scale length you've decided to use. There are other important things you need to have planned before starting, but like I said, google and youtube are better for info than me lol
Polys go on just as easy if not easier than oils glossy has better UV protection than semi but either is far superior for that as well as protection for the wood as well and is easily repaired. Urethanes are good too. A high quality marine spar varnish works quite well. BTW when you sand flat surfaces block sand please to keep out the ripples. Where I you I'd research how the high quality gun stock re-finishers go about it.
that fucking guitar top oh my lord
awesome video... looking to make my first guitar, and want it to be blue green burst. Here is my question, with the tru oil, the oil itself is somewhat a yellow/brown color, is there a finish out there that will stay clear? I want the colors to stay bright, and not a dull color... also, any tips in buffing the finish without s buffing wheel?
What kind of steel wool are you using? My guess is triple or quadruple 0? I can only find double 0 here but that looks to me to be way too coarse.
Also, thanks a bunch for the wet sanding with boiled linseed oil! Is it possible to use pore filler before sanding/applying oil to get the same effect? Just curious what your experience is there. I guess you use linseed oil because tru oil gets tacky too quickly, and its one of the major components of tru oil anyway?
Thanks for sharing :)
thanks for all the info. looks great.
I remember reading somewhere that tru-oil and/or tung oil finishes need to be redone after a few years, is that true?
thanks
I have some East Texas Black Walnut.. I sure would love a Telecaster Wall clock with music box that plays Rock around the Clock at Noon.. Wish I could show you a picture when the limbs were cut.
very helpful . thanks
But you can lacquer under it - lac is a great sealer coat because as they say, it sticks to anything. Also, it's totally natural and safe. Use Everclear to thin it and you can be sure it's safe.
Maybe you could use a shellac sealnig coat first. That way it might not absorb so fast, but I know what you mean about absorbancy of end grain.
Strangely I kind of like the smell of tru oil.
Basically finishing a guitar or gun stock is not that much different except with high quality gun stocks you have a much higher quality wood. It has to be for the strength.
my first is surely going to be oil finished. but can you stain the piece of wood and then oil it? or can oil only be used when there's nothing at all underneath it?
Naptha as in the fuel? And yes, the finish on the guitar is Satin.
Thank you so much for your reply,if i use tru oil sealer before truoil gunstock finished is that a good idea?Because i saw truoil got some sealer and filler. too..cheers
Birchwood-Casey (makers of TruOil) suggests "wet sanding" the _first_ coat or two of oil, which creates its own grain filler slurry of oil and wood dust. messy, but it works really well and still doesn't look like any grain filler has been used. it's good for open-grained wood that sucks up a lot of oil, and helps the finish build up a lot faster.
here's a good tip for storing TruOil: instead of peeling off the foil under the cap, just poke a hole in it with a pin. then when you're not using it, make sure it's capped tightly and store the bottle upside down. this keeps the oil from skinning over and it'll keep a lot longer.
lastly, thought i'd share this link. there's a guy named Tom Pettingill that makes absolutely gorgeous lap steel guitars, and he only uses TruOil as his finish. the depth of shine that he gets out of it is absolutely amazing! here's a link to a photo gallery of his work: s302.photobucket.com/user/tompettingill/library/?sort=3&page=1
If I have no way of getting access to a buffer (and am short for cash), is there any other method you could suggest in order to get that nice polish on it?
Hello i have a little problem with true tung oil. I wiped the whole guitar with multiple coats. It is mahogany body with walnut top. Problem is that the mahogany edges and back are fine they repel water and work pretty well. Problem starts at the top.the topi is dried and everything but water is kinda nt repeled. When i buff itwith 0000 steel wal and then put a drop of water or sweat or something... it always leaves a satin spot on the walnut and it is not so easy to get it out. Only by buffing etc. Any clues what´s wrong with the walnut?
Dose Tru-Oil preserve the sonic quality of the wood as well as protects it from rot?
It's like a piece of tree that was made into a clock that a guy sold my grandma at work long ago. Interesting story really. The guy who made it and finished it wanted her to have it because he wanted to see how it held up up in a smoker's house. Odd and sad as far as health, but cool from an artists perspective :)
Question. Im making a firebird with a black airbrushed edge on natural mahogany. Should i paint the black edge before the tru oii or after ?
How do you fill scars of the wood?
I have a Korina wood body, and I wanted to paint a small design on it. I heard from someone that they used acrylic paint than finished with the true oil over it...but I don't know how dark the body is going to be after I apply the tru oil...what do you thinik
That LP style body you brought in at 13:00 is VERY nice! Is it a walnut burl top like the other piece you were working on?
Buy a book on amazon. I recommend Guitarmaking: Tradition and Technology. Everything you need to know in order to build one.
Not just you. I thought for sure it was going to go over. I know if it were me, it definitely would have gone flying ;-)
I wasn't in the slightest bit worried about the bottle of tru oil being knocked over. It wasn't my bottle of trust oil. I have way too many things of my own to worry about. beautiful bit of Wood though.
end grain soaks up oil like you would not imagine!
btw, could you do a tutorial on how to do a solid color finish? is it even possible without an airbrush?
+BigDGuitars How long do you wait after applying to the top, before laying it on the top to do the back?
where do u purchase the wood ad whom makes the actual building of the wood guitar 4 u. who does the buffing? how much do these cost u before electronics? thanks
Fantastic video... thanks so much.. I feel more confident about starting this project now.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video,I've never had anyne go through all the steps. I been doing it wrong. Ya I was watching the bottle to. LOL
How hard is the true oil get?
Is it hard enough for necks?
Will it stand the sweat of a hand?
I have no clue how you managed to not to have any orange peel. I do now probably seventh coat and I still do not manage to get even surface. is it the sanding phase before the tru oil? or you use some pores filler and sand to flat prior to coating?
You can do all sides at one time. Create a hanging stick, that mimics where the neck connects to the body. Screw it in with two screws and hang it. You can hold it by the hanging stick, or treat the front first and hold the body by the router holes.
Can you put tru oil over a piece of wood that has been stained?
Hey I'm building a body out of pine. Will tru-oil
Be OK to use?
I've watched other methods of applying the finish but l like yours the best and that's the way I will be doing it thankyou for a great video
I love this video. So instructive. Could you finish an acoustic guitar with tru-oil and get an equally shiny surface?
i kept trying to use my cursor ,cant spell, to go ahead and push the bottle off the 2x4, lol nice work. tom
Is Tru-Oil good for finishing a painted guitar or is it best for directly on the wood?
How much would I need for a full guitar?
Would an 8oz bottle be enough?
It is a hard finish?
Great video, but I have no idea what compound to buff the finish with at the end. Can anyone help?
it's ok to put your freshly oiled guitar body face down while you oil the back? Just wondering, because if it is, it'd make my job a lot easier :/ I assumed you'd have to have it hanging and be real delicate
KurtTissera first couple of coats I put it on heavy wipe it off and let it sit. then after a number of coats would only apply on one side
thanks for the reply! what i mean is when i start this on my freshly sanded guitar, i'll put the first heavy coat on the top, let that dry, and then do the sides and the back the next day?
yay your back. i do enjoy and learn quite a bit from your videos. thank For doing more!
No.........yes.
tack cloth???
Hi, someone knows how tru oil is translated to spanish? thank you
Es aceite de linaza cocido.
Nice vid man... Just started using tru oil for my stave drums today....
Does the first coat need to be as heavy if there is already a stain finish on, such as a minwax oil based stain?