Finishing a Flamed/Curly Walnut Guitar with Tru-oil - Full class
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2017
- Inside the Luthier's Shop with BigDGuitars. I have this beautiful walnut tele that was in need of a full video. Wet sanding with Tru-oil is new to me helps out a ton!
Wow, She's a Beauty, Brilliant work with the Tru Oil, thank you for Sharing your knowledge!
Melbourne, Australia.
Dude! Incredible result and very helpful! Thanks a bunch!
Answered so many of my questions. Thanks so much. I've been holding off starting a Spalted Maple Les Paul kit until I was sure of my plan going forward.
Nice job, that looks fantastic.
This is going to be an extremely beautiful guitar.
Wow, Nice Job BigD.
Like the two camera setup you're using now. Been watching for a while, and it's a nice evolution for your videos. And, thanks for sharing the info. Always appreciate the tips and insight you've offered up to the community.
Same here! Thanks so much!
Awesome looking guitar body, thanks for the video.
That back is gorgeous, would've look great as the front
I was thinking the same thing.
Me too.
Is the back walnut as well?
I originally thought the same thing, however, the more I thought about it, the pickups and bridge would have either cut away or hide the figure of the wood...
I personally think he made the right call here.
Beautiful walnut,my favorite wood to work with
beautiful, Derek!
Beautiful!!
gorgeous!
This wood is gorgeous
Great BigD, Great job. thanks!
thanks!
That's a bad ass piece of wood. Grain looks awesome.
thanks!
3rd like! Never been this early before lol. Great video. I love your channel, it is so informative and helpful. Hoping to have pics of my first from-scratch build soon!
awesome!
That's incredible bro. Mad respect! That would look bad ass with either gold or black chrome hardware. Cheers, Chris.
I haven't figured that one out yet. It will be a complete build with walnut neck and for sale shortly.
looks great
Such a beautifull Wood! Congratulations for the result!
Gorgeous Piece of Guitar Art... The back looks like an Xray of the Human Spine... Cool Shizz Bro...
Thats one of the few things I like about living in California, I can get ahold of a lot of figured walnut.
that guitar is looking awesome. She sounds light.
very light its this video: ruclips.net/video/nyzwg6PHQDs/видео.html
Really looks sweet. Almost reminds me of a guitar that George Lynch might play. Cool.
This is beautiful wood and the right kind of finish to go on it. My compliments on your work. Do you have pictures or a video of the guitar assembled?
I think once you put on the first coat, the subsequent coats can be thinned with white spirits for lighter coats and will leave a nice glossy finish
:0 when the back is even far more stunning than the front... what a beauty
1:24 Begin
6:48 Back of guitar
(Let sit for 24 hours)
7:42 2nd coat
(Let sit for 3 days (Required? Idk))
12:12 600 grit sandpaper (with tru oil)
19:38 Switches to cloth to continue wiping with tru oil
(Let sit to smoothen the pores)
21:42 Sanding pad with tru oil again (600 grit)
26:42 Really light coat of tru oil (with cloth again)
28:48 Back of guitar again
(Let dry for a couple of days)
30:04 Buff time
Hero.
I just specced out a Neal Moser custom 6, what I would give for it to look like the back of that one. WOW!
I have MusicMan Stingray bass guitars and they have unfinished necks. They recommend TruOil to maintain the back of the necks and I have been using it for 15 years. I had no idea it could be used for a finish. The polyester finish on the body of one of my basses cracked when it was around a heat source and I am looking to get it refinished. Thanks for video!
Lots of sanding to get those into bare wood.
Fantastic job. That is some unique and beautiful figuring, esp for walnut. How is the walnut with regard to acoustic properties?
Amazing!!!! Would you consider adding an oil-based UV poly to the true oil mix to ideally protect that walnut from ultraviolet fading over time?
That quilted walnut is gorgeous but also hard to find!
On large walnut trees the crotches on the big limbs are almost always curly. Here in Iowa I have a friend with a portable saw mill
And he finds trees to cut, I have him cut the crotches , on the large limbs some times you can get two blanks from 1 crotch he seals the ends and air dry for couple months, then kiln dry to 8% the flame and quilting is amazing
Wow I am using chestnut tung oil in the same way
Nice work. Do you have a video of the completed guitar? I am curious to how it sounds.
That turned out absolutely gorgeous thank you for the tips. I have a question, how easy is it to remove poly (squier classic vibe in this example) i know there's polyurethane and polyester not sure what is used on which but I'd definitely love to take on the challenge of a DIY refinish after seeing this video 😁
Is it just me or does anyone else see the face of the Predator character in the wood figure on the back of the guitar at about 7:00 into the video? LOL
I must be lucky, ive built 10 chambered walnut teles, most with 1 piece bodys with spalted red elm tops. Havent had 1 split yet.
I finished them with nitro, that means no building in the winter, to cold in Iowa. Tru oil or a uv resin look like a good way to go
For winter months.
Cool video! It looks like you made all the coats on the back and front one after the other. How long did you wait between coats?
Great video, I've learned a lot from you. So if I used this method, I won't have to pore fill a swamp ash body?
Beautiful Tele Derek, Particularly for walnut, what are your thoughts on UV protection when using TruOil? Does Truoil add any UV protection or can a wipe on poly with UV protection be put over the or under the TruOil?
Great Video!
Can you send some links to the buffing wheels and the correct size for the drill?
yeah thats insane !! :)
thanks!
you should do some wipe on poly tutorials!
Hi. Thanks for sharing. Do you find it not necessary to wipe off after applying?
Curious about something, not sure if you've done this or have a video on it. Have you ever applied a black stain to wood then sealed it with the Tru Oil? If so, how did it go?
This is a great video and your explanation is superb.
I am finishing a snare drum made of Jarrah wood with Tru oil.
I am up to 6 coats of Tru oil and am very happy with the result so far. I let each coat sit for 24 hrs. then use 0000 steel wool in between coats.
The only minor issue I have is that there are some micro unevenness in the wood because I never filled in the wood from the beginning.
Can I do any filling at this point?
Could I use wet sand with 800 sandpaper and Tru oil for a coat or two? Do I need to wipe off the sanded residue of the snare before drying?
Then after it dries get back to using 0000 steel wool. Would these interim steps help to fill in the wood a little and make it more uniform and smooth?
I'm also looking to get a super gloss finish as the end result.
Can I cut the last few coats 50/50 with mineral spirits? More 0000 steel wool sanding?
Any suggestions?
Thank you.
Any recommendations
I want to do this to the body of my Faded Gibson SG. Should I lightly sand it or just leave it? I was hoping you had some pointers for me.
What backing wood would you use with a walnut top with maple neck? for hard rock tone
couple questions first I didn't notice are you doing any sanding or steel wool between coats? And can you use Tru oil on painted guitars to get a glossy shine?
Have you ever done one with an Eastern red cedar body?
hi. what grit sand paper are you using on 3rd coat when applying try oil with sand paper?
Hey I'm doing the same process to a walnut body I built; hand sanded, Tung oil 14 coats, but a quick questionWill the miniwax rubbing compound be fine to use? I would assume so, as its just a fine rubbing compound, then turtle wax on top?PS that guitar came out beautiful
How come you opted for the rubbing compound and the wax, rather than the liquid polish?
That looks fabulous. Just too bad I can't seem to find that specific tru-oil product in 32oz at an affordable price from out here in Europe.
I would really have like to give it a try. :-(
Generally they make it so it is hard to get US products with import fees and shipping costs and you get to buy their products made mainly in Germany which have different characteristics and are still expensive for what they are. :-(
I'm curious to what tru-oil's composition/ingredients. Is it similar to Danish Oil?
I've used TRU OIL and /or Teak Oil multiple times before and it really brings out the grain, BUT I waited until it cured and then sprayed a couple of light coats of poly over it. My thought was that wax would not last as long as poly. What is your experience? It would probably be quicker and easier to use wax. Why wax instead of spray poly? Advantages-Disadvantages?
Beautiful! Thanks for this vid! How do you keep dust from getting stuck in the drying oil?
Would Gluboost or sanding sealer be a good way to fill the pores mostly before applying the Tru Oil? I don't like to see/feel pores in my finishes but I like the idea of wiping it on?
Hi. Super job ! But I'm french 😀and not sure to understand what's are the two last products to the last polish.. Is it car-polish ? Why are they two different type ? Thanks in advance for your replay. I'm very interesting by this subject and your video is so interesting !
Eric alias LeKaribou.
Do you think if my guitar is stained I could still sand in the true oil with 600 after only three coats? If not maybe I could get the same end result just waiting until 5-6 coats to start the sanding?
I wish there were more options for copper guitar hardware, that pairing would look stunning on this guitar. C'mon Bigsby, make a copper b5 & b7! Also, how does tru-oil interact with stains?
That would be royally amazing.
It's strangely satisfying working with Tru-Oil aint it?
IMHO a block should be used to keep an even pressure but great job . Looks awesome.
Haha commented before the block came out.
does Tru oil work with stain?
Can you get a SG like cherry by this method?
That is gorgeous! I have no idea if you answer comments from older videos, but just in case: if the figure in the walnut was not as pronounced, do you think it would look good to dye the whole guitar black, sand it, so at that point the grain is highlighted in black, and then apply the Tru-Oil? Would love to hear from you!
You can! Usually the figured portions of wood have more open grain, which means it absorbs more color. When you sand away the top the figures portion will stay darkened with the paint. Start sanding away with 400grit and see how much black is coming off
@@jairosanchez07 Thank you for your reply! Have you ever done this or know of someone who did? I would love to see an example of this, but haven't been able to find any.
MrMisteriousBoy yes, I have a table with this technique on my Instagram, but I didn’t sand it back as much because I liked the darker look. Bigd guitars actually has a video on his channel where he stains a non figured alder guitar body, I know alder and walnut are very different woods but he picked a non figured alder body to show this technique. Remember, dyes actually penetrate inside the wood which soaks instead of a paint so you should be good
Amazing job my friend, tell me one thing, could you achieve the same result with tung oil instead of tru oil ? Thanks a lot
+Raphael Lira won't be as glossy. They are similar materials though.
Amazingly. It's hard to believe it's just Truoil. Is the walnut body heavy?
its my new construction where I have it hollowed out.
I went back and listened where you said it was made out of pieces but I didn't quite get that. Thank you for the clarification. It did look light when you were finished and just kind of flipping it from front to back to show the finish.
A pretty simple process that produced an absolutely beautiful result. How many hours do you think that took?
about an hour and a half in total. not too bad.
great video! no sanding or steel wool (even 0000) between coats?
nope didn't need to, the sanding made such a huge difference
Can you stain then use try oil?
How would you advise on not grainfilling black limba, and buffing it to a light gloss? Using the same method as you, without the sanding with tru-oil? Do you think the end result would be nice? I like the open-poredness of mahogany types of wood, and I am thinking about a DIY with black limba...
I do this on african mahogany a lot of the times. Its really a great finish. I don't like to pore fill its just one more step that I can get close with this method. If you want smooth as glass then you will need to porefill.
Thanks for sharing.
Btw, can you ad tint to the oil...if so what kind?
yes. I would ad a thinner based oil.
Can anyone educate me on the difference between, TruOil, Danish Oil and Tung Oil?
Would your method change any if you used Minwax wipe on poly?
I haven't done it this way. the heavier the coat stickier it gets.
Do you build tele's with Floyds?
I don't.
Big D: what is the protection of true oil, & will I have to reapply it after a certain amount of time of abuse? thanks in advance
I love tru-oil because its very durable. Its used on gunstocks and you can easily reapply if you need to.
Marcus P. Carrozza I first heard about Truoil in a column by Rick Turner. He said his dad used it on shotgun stocks that he used to take in boats on the ocean to hunt ducks, and if it's tough enough to hold up to that it will hold up on a guitar body. That convinced me enough to give it a try.
You must own stock in Tru-oil.
i have one question.... do i need to buff after curing tru-oil.. and can i leave as it is after 2-3 coats on guitar...
no you don't need to buff. I did because I could. I would say at least 3 coats.
thank you......so that means 24 hours for each coats and then i can leave that as it is...
Where did you source the walnut?
there is a guy in southern IL that sells wood I buy from time to time.
I got a problem with using tru oil. After every sanding i put tru oil on in with a clean rag, let it dry for 24h but even after the 5th finish the surface still is rough like there is dust on it. I have a flamed maple top. I dont get it. please help me :(
Clean after sanding with denatured alcohol
Great video, as always. Just wondering, and this goes out to ANYONE that can answer: Can Tru-Oil be built up significantly thicker than what is shown here and on most builds? Is there another non-sprayed option that will give an EXTREME gloss (picture PRS 3-d looking glossiness)? I may have to resort to spraying, but I DESPERATELY hope not. Want to have a VERY high quality cherry sunburst , and have an extreme gloss finish. If it can be hand-rubbed...all the better. Thank you
check this out: ruclips.net/video/3HNelvd51qM/видео.html
Very nice work. I just wish to know if Tru-oil is water resistent and how long it takes to be enough dry or cured to allow working on. Thank you in advance.
Takes about 2-3 weeks.
First comment!!!sooo nice guitar man
thanks for watching!
I'd be curious to know how many people comment on your stained gloves. Lol
I get a lot of odd comments sometimes.
I have couple question if you don't mind answering. 1. All an all to get the tru oil done it takes about 2 weeks? 2. Why not use your big buffing system? better handling of speed with a drill? 3. How much yellowing can you get from tru oil?
Thanks for the great videos man. keep it up!
Tru-oil takes about 2-3 weeks to dry before you can buff. I wanted to show basic tools to use vs. the buffer I have. I get grief from folks when I show them, my "Fancy tools." I used basic compounds that most of us have sitting around.
Sounded a little ruff after you waxed it.
02:43 did he just say his Granda loved nuts?
loved walnut.
just joking buddy, good job with the guitar
Nice looking wood ruined by making a tele
I have another piece what should I make?
@@bigdguitars Well, that was jsut a joke since I don't care about teles :) But, to answer the question, stratocaster ofcourse!
True I was meant to be applied fingers not gloves and damn sure not rags between each application you should still wool Being from a gun refinishing background I know what tool does you would have a much prettier finish if you would do it the way it’s meant to be done
Steel wool sucks use 1500 wet dry sand paper start thinning the tru oil after 3rd coat finish up with tru oil wax
Please be respectful of people who want to watch your video and keep redundancy to a minimum. I don’t have time to watch you sand for 35 minutes.
Just asking for smart editing… Thanks