Finally someone whos realistic about the process. Ive seen so many videos of someone putting on just 1 coat! I wanted to see the entire peocess step to finish. Thanks for the idea of woodburning a logo! Ill also do that too
I have a Les Paul with a nitro finish. I think it’s probably similar to lacquer in that it creates a lot of drag when you slide your hand up and down the neck. This results in a slower playing neck than the oil finish.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. I did a test today on scrap maple with tru oil, danish oil, salad bowl finish and some polyurethane. The tru oil was by far the best feel. Salad bowl was a close second and then danish oil a close third. The polyurethane was too rough and sticky. Are you in the Philly area?
Nice video! I was collecting information on how to restore a neck of a guitar (it has stained black due to a misuse back some years ago by the previous owner). I will sand down the neck just a bit and apply some tru-oil.
Thanks man. Found a mini electric guitar that has no coat. Will be adding one soon when I can get my hands on some tru oil. Was gonna go with boiled linseed oil but this looks easier
I would think that it should be fine. While I haven't actually tried Tru Oil over abalone specifically, I've used it overtop of other inlays, plastic binding, etc. and never had any issues. Thanks for watching!
Great info here. I just bought a new bass. The neck is sanded and smooth ( but it feels, a little dry ). I want to add a Lite-Coat of Tru-oil, to add some slickness & hydration . . . but still retain that smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Hi, very nice video. A question: how to obtain a more vintage yellow colour from tru oil? I love it, but on my necks and bodies sometimes I would prefer a bit more vintage colour . Tru oil is quite transparent. Thank u in advance!
Not much got on the frets, in this case, so I actually ended up not having to clean any off. However, if you do have to clean any up, just take a razor blade and lightly run it along the sides of the frets (almost like you're going underneath the fret) to separate the finish on the frets from the finish on the fingerboard, and then scrape the unwanted finish off the frets. Hope that helps!
Great video! How long will a true oil finish last on a guitar that is played a little every day? Also, what brand of true oil did you use, and where did you buy it? Thanks!
Thanks! I use Birchwood Casey tru oil that I ordered from Amazon. I have another tele with a tru oil neck that's several years old and has been played a lot, and it's held up great.
I know we talked about this on Facebook already, but I'm going to answer it here too, in case anyone else who sees this is wondering the same thing. I usually wait about 24 hours between coats. You want each coat to dry before applying the next one.
will do just getting stated ive change all hardware from tuners to the bridge, purchase fender 72 ri loaded pickguard with wide range humbucker pick ups. leaving the body as natural as i can but the neck minwax golden oak
Just wait and keep it in a well lit room. Sunlight will darken and yellow light colored woods such as maple quite quickly. The main ingredient of TruOil is boiled linseed oil which will yellow as well.
I tried to avoid just wiping it all over the frets, but I certainly didn't obsess over not getting any oil on them. With the method I use, I really haven't had much trouble with build-up on the frets. I would be more concerned about getting the wood covered than not getting oil on the frets.
It seems to be reasonably hard wearing. I have another guitar that I built with a tru oil neck several years ago, that's been one of my main guitars, and I haven't had to do anything with it.
Thanks! Good question. If it's a water or alcohol based stain, then Tru Oil should work over it. If it's an oil based stain, it may not work well with Tru Oil. I'd recommend doing a test on some scrap wood, to make sure that it'll look the way you want it to.
@@MrLawrence1950 Tru oil also has mineral spirits in it, which could pull up an oil based stain, obscuring the wood grain. Not to say that it'll always happen that way - just that there's such a possibility, which is why it's best to try it on some scrap wood first. Cheers!
Very good and informative video, I like the effect that true oil brings to the neck instead of the acrylic or poly finish most companies use. Now I have a question, how long should I wait until true oil is completely dry so that I don't mess all up? Thank you from Italy
Thanks for watching! It can depend. To be safe, I'd let it dry for a week or so, and then see how dry it seems. If it still feels a little sticky or seems a bit too soft, then let it dry for another week and check it again.
Could you elaborate more on the part where you sanded parts of the oil off on the fretboard after 24hours. Why did you do that? Also, what grade sand paper?
It should work. Lots of people do that with good results. You could get a scrap piece of wood (anything will do in this case) and test it with your stain and tru oil, if you want to double check.
Just use that blue painter's tape to mask off the rosewood and then go ahead and oil the rest of the neck. You don't want to put Tru Oil on rosewood because it won't dry.
I would try lemon oil, like Ming Wu said. Tru Oil is more for finishing, whereas lemon oil is more for conditioning, which is what I think you want in this case.
I have an I unfinished maple neck. I love the feel and speed of it as is, but I would like to bring out the look of the grain. Will try oil make it loose that unfinished feel? I hate finished necks. Thanks for your vid
Thanks for watching! Well, if you just use several thin coats of tru oil, it'll definitely feel much more like the raw wood, than most factory finished necks. However, there's a high probability that the overall feel will change some. I'd say that it comes down to how much you like/dislike the feel of an oiled neck, and how much of a trade-off you're willing to make. If you can get hold of a piece of maple and do some tests with tru oil on it, that would probably really help you figure out whether you want to do it or not.
J. IV Guitar I applied a couple of thins coats like you said and I really like the way the neck came out. It’s got luster without that finished neck feel. That Tru Oil is great stuff!!!
Do you mean onto bare wood, or onto Tru Oil? I haven't done it myself, but I'd imagine it would be fine to apply over Tru Oil, since the oil is technically a gun stock finish. I don't know whether wax straight onto wood would work or not.
This one seemed pretty good in several days, if I recall correctly. I've had another one take several weeks though. It depends on the humidity, and how much you put on.
@@j.ivguitar8636 did you clean with naphtha the neck after sanding so it doesn't have Dust on it? Or you applied immediately the finish without wiping?
Sorry for not replying sooner. I just now saw this. You could really do it either way. Some people immediately start applying the oil, without cleaning off the dust, to help grain fill the wood and get a smoother, glossier finish. Personally, I just give the wood a quick brushing off, and then start finishing it.
Finally someone whos realistic about the process. Ive seen so many videos of someone putting on just 1 coat! I wanted to see the entire peocess step to finish.
Thanks for the idea of woodburning a logo! Ill also do that too
Finally, someone using tru-oil on an all maple neck including the fretboard. Thanks!
I did the same also waxed it but now I wanna lacquer it. Why do u like it more unlacqured? I'm not shure If I can put clear coat after waxing
@@lines374 nope.. clear needs a clean dry surface to bond to.. hope this helps. ✌🏼
I have a Les Paul with a nitro finish. I think it’s probably similar to lacquer in that it creates a lot of drag when you slide your hand up and down the neck. This results in a slower playing neck than the oil finish.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. I did a test today on scrap maple with tru oil, danish oil, salad bowl finish and some polyurethane. The tru oil was by far the best feel. Salad bowl was a close second and then danish oil a close third. The polyurethane was too rough and sticky. Are you in the Philly area?
"I like rusty spoons, and tru oil necks"
Ohhh..
Interesting video .. but the tru oil on the fretboard maintains its brightness after playing or the guitar strings wear the treated surface?
What a great idea, wood burning a logo into the neck! Thanks
Are you left with any marks after applying? Or does look very smooth
Nice video! I was collecting information on how to restore a neck of a guitar (it has stained black due to a misuse back some years ago by the previous owner). I will sand down the neck just a bit and apply some tru-oil.
Thanks for watching, and best of luck with your restoration!
Is 3oz or 8oz fine for finishing one neck? Also, does it make it as glossy and hard as stuff like acrylic?
I hate the thick poly finishes they put on maple necks.
Thanks man.
Found a mini electric guitar that has no coat.
Will be adding one soon when I can get my hands on some tru oil.
Was gonna go with boiled linseed oil but this looks easier
Nice! Yeah, tru oil is probably the easiest stuff I've found. Good luck with your project!
Tru-Oil's main ingredient is boiled linseed oil.
Can tru oil be applied over bore oil?
👍🤘
My neck has abalone inlay. Will the Tru oil damage/darken them in any way? What would you recommend? Thank you for the info!
I would think that it should be fine. While I haven't actually tried Tru Oil over abalone specifically, I've used it overtop of other inlays, plastic binding, etc. and never had any issues. Thanks for watching!
Was it poly in that neck?
You mean the sealer? I'm not sure, but I think it was listed as having a poly resin sealer.
Great info here. I just bought a new bass. The neck is sanded and smooth ( but it feels, a little dry ). I want to add a Lite-Coat of Tru-oil, to add some slickness & hydration . . . but still retain that smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
I know this comment is old, but if you hit it with 00 steel wool or finer after finishing, you will get that nice satin feel.
Hi, very nice video. A question: how to obtain a more vintage yellow colour from tru oil? I love it, but on my necks and bodies sometimes I would prefer a bit more vintage colour . Tru oil is quite transparent. Thank u in advance!
Thanks! I'd probably just use wood dye to get the color I wanted first, and then finish it with tru oil.
@@j.ivguitar8636 would you suggest to mix dye with oil or something else?
@@TheZampa95 I'd probably just follow the instructions of the dye you plan on using to dye the wood first, and then put tru oil on over top of it.
how did you clean the finish off the frets without damaging the finish on the fretboard cheers
Not much got on the frets, in this case, so I actually ended up not having to clean any off. However, if you do have to clean any up, just take a razor blade and lightly run it along the sides of the frets (almost like you're going underneath the fret) to separate the finish on the frets from the finish on the fingerboard, and then scrape the unwanted finish off the frets. Hope that helps!
Great video! How long will a true oil finish last on a guitar that is played a little every day? Also, what brand of true oil did you use, and where did you buy it? Thanks!
Thanks! I use Birchwood Casey tru oil that I ordered from Amazon. I have another tele with a tru oil neck that's several years old and has been played a lot, and it's held up great.
I just use some boiled linseed oil with some Japan dryer. A couple coats and its good to go.
How many hours did you wait until you apply the 2nd coat? And what are the specific name of the tools you use?
I know we talked about this on Facebook already, but I'm going to answer it here too, in case anyone else who sees this is wondering the same thing. I usually wait about 24 hours between coats. You want each coat to dry before applying the next one.
this is my first kit and ive been looking at videos for two weeks glad i found yours
Super cool! So you have this same kit then?
Alright what part of Philly are you from? 😂
How much tru oil is needed for a neck?
no its a DIY thinline tele kit
will do just getting stated ive change all hardware from tuners to the bridge, purchase fender 72 ri loaded pickguard with wide range humbucker pick ups. leaving the body as natural as i can but the neck minwax golden oak
In case you want a more " vintage" color in the fretboard there's something you need to add to tru oil in order to get that color ?
Just wait and keep it in a well lit room. Sunlight will darken and yellow light colored woods such as maple quite quickly. The main ingredient of TruOil is boiled linseed oil which will yellow as well.
I noticed you did the fretboard, do you have to be careful not to get the oil on the frets
I tried to avoid just wiping it all over the frets, but I certainly didn't obsess over not getting any oil on them. With the method I use, I really haven't had much trouble with build-up on the frets. I would be more concerned about getting the wood covered than not getting oil on the frets.
Do you have to keep re oiling it from time to time or is it quite hard wearing
It seems to be reasonably hard wearing. I have another guitar that I built with a tru oil neck several years ago, that's been one of my main guitars, and I haven't had to do anything with it.
J. IV Do you use 0000 steel wool between each coat?
Yeah, not very hard though. Just enough to help smooth it out some and to help the next coat of oil adhere.
The logo looks cool man
Thanks!!
Will bore oil do the same ?
Hi and well done! How ml do i need for finishing just the neck (rosewood fingerboard) like a vintage yellowish Fender neck? And how many coats?
Thx!
Thanks! The little 3 oz (90 ml) bottle is plenty for finishing a neck. I generally like to do three coats or so.
Will this work with a rosewood fretboard
I wouldn't put tru oil on the rosewood fretboard, but it'll work just fine on the rest of the neck.
J. IV Guitar thanks
What grit on the fret board ?
Good job on the video! Do you think it's okay to do a minwax stain before the tru oil?
Thanks! Good question. If it's a water or alcohol based stain, then Tru Oil should work over it. If it's an oil based stain, it may not work well with Tru Oil. I'd recommend doing a test on some scrap wood, to make sure that it'll look the way you want it to.
@@j.ivguitar8636 What??? Tru oil is petroleum based. Oil over oil works. Please explain. Thanks, LWW
@@MrLawrence1950 Tru oil also has mineral spirits in it, which could pull up an oil based stain, obscuring the wood grain. Not to say that it'll always happen that way - just that there's such a possibility, which is why it's best to try it on some scrap wood first. Cheers!
Very good and informative video, I like the effect that true oil brings to the neck instead of the acrylic or poly finish most companies use. Now I have a question, how long should I wait until true oil is completely dry so that I don't mess all up?
Thank you from Italy
Thanks for watching! It can depend. To be safe, I'd let it dry for a week or so, and then see how dry it seems. If it still feels a little sticky or seems a bit too soft, then let it dry for another week and check it again.
You sound like Mr. Van Driessen on B&B.
Could you elaborate more on the part where you sanded parts of the oil off on the fretboard after 24hours. Why did you do that? Also, what grade sand paper?
Drips or runs of Tru Oil. 400 grit is good.
Is this tru oil finish as smooth as pure satin finish? Anyone? Please i need help here bcs i prefer the looks on tru oil finish but with satin feels
Yeah, it is! Tru oil is great for making a super smooth feeling finish.
Is it a must to use tru oil?
I recently stained my bass maple neck to a darker finish. Can I use tru oil to finish the stained neck?
It should work. Lots of people do that with good results. You could get a scrap piece of wood (anything will do in this case) and test it with your stain and tru oil, if you want to double check.
Nice but I was hoping to see how you do a rosewood fret board, how you mask, etc.
Just use that blue painter's tape to mask off the rosewood and then go ahead and oil the rest of the neck. You don't want to put Tru Oil on rosewood because it won't dry.
Can you use Tru Oil to finish a fret board that has been colored with StewMac Color Tone?
You should be able to. StewMac says those stains will mix with any finish, so Tru Oil over top should be fine.
J. IV Guitar thank you!
fretwire
Cool! I've looked at their kits before. I'd love to hear how yours turns out.
I have a Rosewood neck on the bass im building. Fretboard is real dry. Can I use Tru oil on a Rosewood fretboard?
Never use tru oil on rosewood, lemon oil is good
I would try lemon oil, like Ming Wu said. Tru Oil is more for finishing, whereas lemon oil is more for conditioning, which is what I think you want in this case.
I am about to do my first kit. Thanks for the info guy.
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your kit!
I have an I unfinished maple neck. I love the feel and speed of it as is, but I would like to bring out the look of the grain. Will try oil make it loose that unfinished feel? I hate finished necks. Thanks for your vid
Thanks for watching! Well, if you just use several thin coats of tru oil, it'll definitely feel much more like the raw wood, than most factory finished necks. However, there's a high probability that the overall feel will change some. I'd say that it comes down to how much you like/dislike the feel of an oiled neck, and how much of a trade-off you're willing to make. If you can get hold of a piece of maple and do some tests with tru oil on it, that would probably really help you figure out whether you want to do it or not.
Thanks you so much for the good advice!
J. IV Guitar I applied a couple of thins coats like you said and I really like the way the neck came out. It’s got luster without that finished neck feel. That Tru Oil is great stuff!!!
Glad it worked the way you wanted! I definitely prefer Tru Oil to other neck finishes as well.
Is it possible to apply gun stock wax to that neck after using steewool ?
Do you mean onto bare wood, or onto Tru Oil? I haven't done it myself, but I'd imagine it would be fine to apply over Tru Oil, since the oil is technically a gun stock finish. I don't know whether wax straight onto wood would work or not.
J. IV Guitar i mea to that tru oil finish. Ive heard musicman puts gun stock wax on their necks
Great video. Keep it up
Thanks! I think you're right about Music Man. I may have to try it out sometime myself now...
Does it darken the neck?
Yeah, it generally darkens the neck a bit.
@@j.ivguitar8636 how many coats do you recommend? Thanks
@@kylepolan3903 I like to do three, but if that doesn't get you the feel you want, you can always do more until you get the desired result.
How long did it take the tru oil to cure?
This one seemed pretty good in several days, if I recall correctly. I've had another one take several weeks though. It depends on the humidity, and how much you put on.
@@j.ivguitar8636 did you clean with naphtha the neck after sanding so it doesn't have Dust on it? Or you applied immediately the finish without wiping?
Sorry for not replying sooner. I just now saw this. You could really do it either way. Some people immediately start applying the oil, without cleaning off the dust, to help grain fill the wood and get a smoother, glossier finish. Personally, I just give the wood a quick brushing off, and then start finishing it.
@@j.ivguitar8636 i finished the fretboard and it's Great thank you for your video. It was really helpful
@@symptomoftheuniverse1261 Awesome! Glad my video was able to help!
Why not use a satin polyurethane and still have the look and fast playing neck without the recurring maintenance?
Tru oil is for another art of wooden. Not for maple or so.
Honestly, not much info shared, but the video was extremely long.
Audio sounds horrible