This is the best explanation on the Tru Oil process on YT. It was well thought out and super easy to follow. You are a great instructor. I never leave comments on YT and almost never even sign into my account. I signed in today just to let you know what a great job you did. I'm surprised this video only has 574 views. I'll be referencing it again in the future. Thanks for making this video. I also checked out your blog.
My son came to me with a new stock unfinished and asked me to do my stuff on it, I was a professional French polisher back in the day. So I told him to do it properly it will take a good while. 2 months later he got his stock and every one now wants me to do theirs.
I used to absolutely love getting up and going to work everyday. I used to layout the and dig the foundation for homes, frame the home, and come back and complete all the woodwork. The only thing I didn't due was build the cabinets. But, I would install them. I life well lived is one where you enjoy or love the work versus a job that you dread to go to. I can tell you enjoy/love woodwork as much I did/do. I still do small projects and an occasion deck (with good help) in the summer time. You just got yourself another subscriber. Keep up the good work young man.
I am working on a rifle stock from 1962 in an attempt at restoration. Thus far I have sanded it down to bare wood. For my sanding I used the 3M Burgandy P360 scuff pad and then the black P800 scuff pad. The wood is now smooth as glass. The more time one spends buffing prior to color will only make the finished project all the nicer. Thanks for the video.
This is the real deal. I finished a stock and it's like a thin coat of rock hard glass. And, I imagine scratches would refinish easily too. Great video, thanks!
Great video and a beautiful job you did on that stock!!!! I am restoring a rifle for my cousin and am very particular with my work. My original plan was to stain the stock with Early American stain then apply several coats of polyurethane. The stock had several deep scratches. I was able to repair most with a steam iron and a t shirt in between the iron and stock. That helps swell the wood to repair the indentations. But, after watching your video, I decided to go with one coat of Early American stain (wiped off a few minutes after applying), then used your Tru Oil method. It completely filled in the remaining indentations! I am about 75% done with the stock and can already tell that it will turn out beautifully with the Tru Oil technique you displayed! Thank you for a great tutorial!!!!
I applied this method to finishing a few sets of surplius CETME-C wood furniture. After dyeing the pale wood with a mixture of brown, red and orange, i obtained a very nice fiery orange/brown finish that resembles the orange furniture on most AK furniture. Thanks for making this video, brother. I'll be coming back to this to refresh my memory because i have an unfinished, non-issued Spanish FR-8 stock i want to finish to a high gloss finish.
Thanks for the Video it has been around 50 years sense I did a stock so needed a refresher, I use to do seven coats with my fingers, letting it sit over night between each coat. do love the True-Oil gun stock finish,
Great video. A tip for you...I noticed that you had to pick out dried Tru-oil from the tray you poured it into, to stop this when you open a new bottle don't remove the seal, simply use a 4" nail to make a hole in the middle of the seal then replace the cap securely and store the bottle upside down and it will never dry out 🙂
Robert, I'm a right handed person that closes my right eye, so I also shot left handed, didn't know this until I received my first gun. My dad was the same, so I got his custom gun. This is an amazing finished gun, if you enjoy doing this kind of work, then think about doing it for a living, start small, advertise on Craig's list (BEING VERY CAREFUL WHERE YOU MEET THEM) and take one of your finished gun around to every gun shop in the area. Then keep turning out great work. When it get to the point customer or having to wait a year on your waiting list, quit your regular job and never look back.
Thanks for the great information. Like anything worth anything, the time you spent and the fact that you didn't cut corners totally paid off with a beautiful finished product.
Tru-oil is applied by a 50/50 mixture of oil and mineral spirits applied very thin. Oil is not as water proof as Polyacralic or wipe on Polyurethane. These can be made to look like an oil finish Seal the inletting as well. Tru-oil is used because it is easy to apply and smells good. A job well done.
Nice job. Concise information not a lot of fluff. Thanks, I'm in the middle of a Wnichester mod 70 stock refinish and this is the ticket. Again thanks.
Thank you Robert Daily. That was very informative. Yesterday, I received a Traditions Kentucky Rifle kit in the mail. I have many guns, but this is my first build. After all the shaping, drilling and fitting, I plan to use your technique.
I Pulled a lot of cool stuff out of The Closet of Lost Gold last year. Did 2 Airgun Shooter Videos about it. Old guns, ammo, etc. Like a Australian Short Lee Enfield built in 1918, and a Crosman 160 Pellgun, variant 1, 1955-56. And my old 70's Ultra-Hi Kentucky percussion kit rifle I started building in my 20's as a newlywed. Had raw brass castings and the whole 9 yards. I'm in the middle of restoring it now. And I used Minwax #231, " Gunstock" oil stain. And Tru-Oil over that. Used 600 on the bare wood, and up to 1500 or so on imperfections in the Tru-Oil.
Back in the seventies I built a 50 caliber Hawken rifle and wanted a hand rubbed finish. To finish the walnut, I made a 50/50 mix of varnish and linseed oil and applied in a similar way as you did only I never sanded between coats, I only used steel wool to buff the wet oil mix in. I applied a coat before leaving for work then buffed it off that night. I dont remember exactly how many coats but it was quite a few. I buffed the final coat with OOOO- steel wool after allowing the finish to cure fully then waxed it. The finish is in the wood, not on it and only needs to be waxed now and then to bring it to a full shine.
I have used WATCO danish oil, which comes in various color shades of walnut finish with amazing results. This oil contains resin hardeners which eliminates pour fillers. The end results are spectacular, hard waring and easy to touch up if necessary. After several coats and dry time, I use jewelers rouge to what ever degree of gloss I desire. Remember, linseed oil never really dries, especially if exposed to hot weather and direct sun light that will warm the surface to the point of returning it to a liquid state and tacky to the touch. I learned that with M1 rifles, carbines while serving in the military. Not good! Tung oil is also a great finish as it dries hard, no ticky-tacky!
+Robert Dailey I'm in the process of refinishing the stock on an old Model 12 my father-in-law gave my son. It's really turning out great. I'm glad i saw your video because I was not wet sanding and that's making the finish look ever better. One thing I've found is if I wipe on true oil with a rag vs finger, I eliminate the tedious work of sanding out sags that I missed... but that's just me.
beautiful job rob! I've used the birchwood casey refinish kit on a air rifle stock 30 yrs a go and it did a beautiful job. great product! i used 2 refinish old furniture and had a problem with oak, if i knew what iknow now about filling in the pores the way u jest did, the furniture wood look a lot better.very had to fill in oak grain. thxs!
All I can say is WOW! You did a beautiful job Robert!, This is the first video of yours I have watched and it blew me away. I learned things that always seemed like a mystery to me. Your clear explanations brought the point home very well. I am subbed for sure. Thanks Robert.
What great teaching video. I wish the stock had checkering. Reason being I’m going to refinish a Turkish walnut Cz stock. It has checkering and I’m not sure how to use the tru oil with the multi coatings on the checkering .
Awesome video man. I’ve got an oil finish beretta o/u that’s gotten a bit dull over time and plenty of shooting. I didn’t strip it all the way back like you have, but started at the wet sand then moved to 000 then 0000 and followed your process and it’s come up beautiful. You legend.
Use plain old linseed oil. Only a linseed oil finish can be renewed as needed by simply rubbing on a new coat of oil. No steel wool or sanding needs to be done before adding a new coat, just rub a very thin coat on a clean stock with the palm of your hand By doing that, you remove any scratches or scrapes you may have gotten in the finish from use, or from just handling the gun over time.
Now that is what I want my stock to look like! I am looking for a stock refinishing video where you start with a fairly good stock with years of patina but I don't want to strip to bare wood. I also have checkering on the stock. Wondering if I can skip all the steps up to the point of the final 2 coats?
very nice job. I personally would have went one maybe two more coats. This is my go to finish for my turkey calls. It seems like the dull areas get duller faster then the glossy areas get semi gloss. I like to get my stuff to almost a nice gloss because i know theres enough on there. Over time it dulls down anyways. At least with calls. Gun a little different. Great work though. The beauty of this stuff is if you put to much on (high gloss) you can easily knock it down. And easy to bring it up. Love love love this oil. Been using it for years.
You did a great job on your stock. I have a stock that I want to refinish and now thanks to you I should be all set. Thank you very much for the tutorial and for sharing with fellow firearm owners.
Great Video, frankly quite masterfully made and very well thought out .. I wasn't even looking for it and watched it to the end. Now I think I'll go refinish my walnut stock 30 cal Hatsan and see what happens. I'll be watching again. Thanks for this.
Really beautiful work! slightly different from the way I do them, but I watch these videos to learn, and I got some great takeaways from your video Thank you!
Hey there boss man‼️ Awesome video‼️ I always wanted to refinish my orginal K31 stock. Change the color. Add some checking on the grip maybe add a custom wood burned or laser eched image on buttstock‼️ But then I thought thought maybe I'm getting ahead of myself and should just buy a finished stock‼️
Thin thin coats as he said. Thick coats look great going on but will screw you as they are going to run and take a long time to dry. I've been wet sanding wth a scotchbrite pad, very light pressure and tru oil for the sanding liquid, about every other coat or so. After the tru oil wet sand, wipe down with a clean tshirt rag slightly damp with tru oil. It's a quick drying treatment
I never use a sander on a stock. I have a stock identical to this that i am doing right now. I have been refinishing stocks since 1963. I use glass to lightly scrape the stock with, and very little sand paper.
This is the best explanation on the Tru Oil process on YT. It was well thought out and super easy to follow. You are a great instructor.
I never leave comments on YT and almost never even sign into my account. I signed in today just to let you know what a great job you did. I'm surprised this video only has 574 views. I'll be referencing it again in the future.
Thanks for making this video. I also checked out your blog.
412k right now, pretty good video
628k 5 yrs later
X
Red Rd
Wß
My son came to me with a new stock unfinished and asked me to do my stuff on it, I was a professional French polisher back in the day. So I told him to do it properly it will take a good while. 2 months later he got his stock and every one now wants me to do theirs.
I used to absolutely love getting up and going to work everyday. I used to layout the and dig the foundation for homes, frame the home, and come back and complete all the woodwork. The only thing I didn't due was build the cabinets. But, I would install them. I life well lived is one where you enjoy or love the work versus a job that you dread to go to. I can tell you enjoy/love woodwork as much I did/do. I still do small projects and an occasion deck (with good help) in the summer time. You just got yourself another subscriber. Keep up the good work young man.
I am working on a rifle stock from 1962 in an attempt at restoration. Thus far I have sanded it down to bare wood. For my sanding I used the 3M Burgandy P360 scuff pad and then the black P800 scuff pad. The wood is now smooth as glass. The more time one spends buffing prior to color will only make the finished project all the nicer. Thanks for the video.
This is the real deal. I finished a stock and it's like a thin coat of rock hard glass. And, I imagine scratches would refinish easily too. Great video, thanks!
Great video and a beautiful job you did on that stock!!!! I am restoring a rifle for my cousin and am very particular with my work. My original plan was to stain the stock with Early American stain then apply several coats of polyurethane. The stock had several deep scratches. I was able to repair most with a steam iron and a t shirt in between the iron and stock. That helps swell the wood to repair the indentations. But, after watching your video, I decided to go with one coat of Early American stain (wiped off a few minutes after applying), then used your Tru Oil method. It completely filled in the remaining indentations! I am about 75% done with the stock and can already tell that it will turn out beautifully with the Tru Oil technique you displayed! Thank you for a great tutorial!!!!
I applied this method to finishing a few sets of surplius CETME-C wood furniture. After dyeing the pale wood with a mixture of brown, red and orange, i obtained a very nice fiery orange/brown finish that resembles the orange furniture on most AK furniture. Thanks for making this video, brother. I'll be coming back to this to refresh my memory because i have an unfinished, non-issued Spanish FR-8 stock i want to finish to a high gloss finish.
Thanks for the Video it has been around 50 years sense I did a stock so needed a refresher, I use to do seven coats with my fingers, letting it sit over night between each coat. do love the True-Oil gun stock finish,
You sir are the Leonardo of gun stocks! Beautiful weapon
You are an ARTIST!
Great video. A tip for you...I noticed that you had to pick out dried Tru-oil from the tray you poured it into, to stop this when you open a new bottle don't remove the seal, simply use a 4" nail to make a hole in the middle of the seal then replace the cap securely and store the bottle upside down and it will never dry out 🙂
Robert, I'm a right handed person that closes my right eye, so I also shot left handed, didn't know this until I received my first gun. My dad was the same, so I got his custom gun. This is an amazing finished gun, if you enjoy doing this kind of work, then think about doing it for a living, start small, advertise on Craig's list (BEING VERY CAREFUL WHERE YOU MEET THEM) and take one of your finished gun around to every gun shop in the area. Then keep turning out great work. When it get to the point customer or having to wait a year on your waiting list, quit your regular job and never look back.
Amen to that
Thanks for the great information. Like anything worth anything, the time you spent and the fact that you didn't cut corners totally paid off with a beautiful finished product.
Really appreciate your video. I’m refinishing my first stock and i found your video the most helpful of all !
Awesome left/right stock. Been looking for one. Can't believe more manufacturers aren't making them.
Wow. That's a pretty grain in that wood.
I am glad someone took the time to finish it nicely.
Well done. That wood grain is a beauty.
Late to the party but I need to say this is a great reference video, I keep referring back to it. Awesome job!
Tru-oil is applied by a 50/50 mixture of oil and mineral spirits applied very thin. Oil is not as water proof as Polyacralic or wipe on Polyurethane. These can be made to look like an oil finish
Seal the inletting as well. Tru-oil is used because it is easy to apply and smells good. A job well done.
Nice job. Concise information not a lot of fluff. Thanks, I'm in the middle of a Wnichester mod 70 stock refinish and this is the ticket. Again thanks.
Absolutely beautiful Robert!
Love the High Comb Rollover.
Beautiful piece of wood.
Awesome job!
Very fine job I'm glad to see another generation doing stuff like this
Great video,I followed your instruction and refinished the stock on my Thompson Hawkins...it is now a thing of beauty. Thanks.
Love the color of the tip and cap They have good contrast
Artwork, jewelry!
You are well on your way to becoming a true master.
My hat is off to you.
Thank you Robert Daily. That was very informative. Yesterday, I received a Traditions Kentucky Rifle kit in the mail. I have many guns, but this is my first build. After all the shaping, drilling and fitting, I plan to use your technique.
Fit, then drill, then shape. Lots of extra wood in a kit, get those line fair and sand the piss out of it. Then finish, and enjoy.....!
I Pulled a lot of cool stuff out of The Closet of Lost Gold last year. Did 2 Airgun Shooter Videos about it. Old guns, ammo, etc. Like a Australian Short Lee Enfield built in 1918, and a Crosman 160 Pellgun, variant 1, 1955-56. And my old 70's Ultra-Hi Kentucky percussion kit rifle I started building in my 20's as a newlywed. Had raw brass castings and the whole 9 yards. I'm in the middle of restoring it now. And I used Minwax #231, " Gunstock" oil stain. And Tru-Oil over that. Used 600 on the bare wood, and up to 1500 or so on imperfections in the Tru-Oil.
First time making my own gunstock (birdseye maple) and I'm following your process to the T. I appreciate the video man.
Used it as a banjo finish - Guide was very helpful
Thanks for this. My stock turned out just like I wanted.
Very good video and presentation!
Beautiful job.
Back in the seventies I built a 50 caliber Hawken rifle and wanted a hand rubbed finish.
To finish the walnut, I made a 50/50 mix of varnish and linseed oil and applied in a similar way as you did only I never sanded between coats, I only used steel wool to buff the wet oil mix in. I applied a coat before leaving for work then buffed it off that night.
I dont remember exactly how many coats but it was quite a few.
I buffed the final coat with OOOO- steel wool after allowing the finish to cure fully then waxed it. The finish is in the wood, not on it and only needs to be waxed now and then to bring it to a full shine.
Most important thing is to have a dog in the shop. Good doggy! Good boy!
I did the same thing to my M44 and my 9130 Mosin Nagant, both turned out beautiful.
Great video! I am currently using Tru-oil to refinish my Winchester 94 30-30 and thought I’d get some pointers. This was a great help! Thanks!
Beautiful stock and thank you for the very informative process! I like that you explained "why" you were doing it instead of just "do this."
Excellent presentation !
very well done bud
Thanks for the very informative video .....awesome.....stay blessed PEACE from the uk
I have used WATCO danish oil, which comes in various color shades of walnut finish with amazing results. This oil contains resin hardeners which eliminates pour fillers. The end results are spectacular, hard waring and easy to touch up if necessary. After several coats and dry time, I use jewelers rouge to what ever degree of gloss I desire. Remember, linseed oil never really dries, especially if exposed to hot weather and direct sun light that will warm the surface to the point of returning it to a liquid state and tacky to the touch. I learned that with M1 rifles, carbines while serving in the military. Not good! Tung oil is also a great finish as it dries hard, no ticky-tacky!
Excellent process.
+Robert Dailey I'm in the process of refinishing the stock on an old Model 12 my father-in-law gave my son. It's really turning out great. I'm glad i saw your video because I was not wet sanding and that's making the finish look ever better. One thing I've found is if I wipe on true oil with a rag vs finger, I eliminate the tedious work of sanding out sags that I missed... but that's just me.
Wow Factor knock it out the park that's a beautiful job very nice
I used this technique and it worked great.
beautiful job rob! I've used the birchwood casey refinish kit on a air rifle stock 30 yrs a go and it did a beautiful job. great product! i used 2 refinish old furniture and had a problem with oak, if i knew what iknow now about filling in the pores the way u jest did, the furniture wood look a lot better.very had to fill in oak grain. thxs!
Robert Dailey ---thx you! and happy thanksgiving!
Nice job, great looking rifle.
Awesome video mate thanks
Very nice! About to refinish my mountain rifle stock, this video will come in handy, thanks
Wow nice hunk of wood you got there.....Impressive
You sound like my wife
@@DaileyWoodworks HaHa...I knew you got some balls too using that sander on that thing.....lol
Great info, just got a Kentucky pistol kit. Will be doing it in the next few days.
Awesome video, great work!
This is the best stock finishing/staining video on RUclips, all the other ones suck
All I can say is WOW! You did a beautiful job Robert!, This is the first video of yours I have watched and it blew me away. I learned things that always seemed like a mystery to me. Your clear explanations brought the point home very well. I am subbed for sure.
Thanks Robert.
Definitely was a noobie restoring a Mosin, then i found this video. Thanks for the awesome help!
SICK GRAIN! Finished stock looks great
What great teaching video. I wish the stock had checkering. Reason being I’m going to refinish a Turkish walnut Cz stock. It has checkering and I’m not sure how to use the tru oil with the multi coatings on the checkering .
Nice job brother
Nice job and a beautiful stock too
That is beautiful finish on a beautiful stock!
Well done, Sir!
Good work. That is a great looking stock to choose to work on
Fantastic video sir, thank you
Love the flag, Texas strong here
#texit
3000 to 5000 grit wet sandpaper will give you even more glossiness,but hey you done wonderful work here, thanks for share
Awesome video man. I’ve got an oil finish beretta o/u that’s gotten a bit dull over time and plenty of shooting. I didn’t strip it all the way back like you have, but started at the wet sand then moved to 000 then 0000 and followed your process and it’s come up beautiful. You legend.
Use plain old linseed oil. Only a linseed oil finish can be renewed as needed by simply rubbing on a new coat of oil. No steel wool or sanding needs to be done before adding a new coat, just rub a very thin coat on a clean stock with the palm of your hand By doing that, you remove any scratches or scrapes you may have gotten in the finish from use, or from just handling the gun over time.
Now that is what I want my stock to look like! I am looking for a stock refinishing video where you start with a fairly good stock with years of patina but I don't want to strip to bare wood. I also have checkering on the stock. Wondering if I can skip all the steps up to the point of the final 2 coats?
very nice job. I personally would have went one maybe two more coats. This is my go to finish for my turkey calls. It seems like the dull areas get duller faster then the glossy areas get semi gloss. I like to get my stuff to almost a nice gloss because i know theres enough on there. Over time it dulls down anyways. At least with calls. Gun a little different. Great work though. The beauty of this stuff is if you put to much on (high gloss) you can easily knock it down. And easy to bring it up. Love love love this oil. Been using it for years.
Awesome job two thumbs way up!!!
You did a great job on your stock. I have a stock that I want to refinish and now thanks to you I should be all set. Thank you very much for the tutorial and for sharing with fellow firearm owners.
I use Danish oil to fill the grain first as it's a lot cheaper, then build up with the Truoil.
I usually use Scotchbrite to rub down the woodwork.
SUPER JOB!! 10 PLUS in my book!!
That's a gorgeous stock
You have a very good assistant.
Nice job, thanks!
Great looking finish, I noticed the cheek plate on the same side as the bolt is, I’ve only seen 2 other stocks like that before!
Great video! Followed it and to my surprise I managed to get my Ruger M77 stock looking awesome! Thanks!
True Oil is great stuff! I use it on my custom guitars.
Great Video, frankly quite masterfully made and very well thought out .. I wasn't even looking for it and watched it to the end. Now I think I'll go refinish my walnut stock 30 cal Hatsan and see what happens. I'll be watching again. Thanks for this.
Really nicely done - thanks so much. About to start refinishing a 40 year old Sabatti Over & Under 12 Ga. Planing to follow your plan.
Beautiful wood in the stock I shoot left handed so I'd like that cheek piece
I polish mine out to 5000 grit. Then seal the wood and apply your fav oil of the week. Glass is the word that comes to mind.
Wow, she is gorgeous! Nice job and thanks for the great info 👍
Nicely done finish.. one tip from Larry porterfield of midwayusa, use rottenstone or a similar compound to even out the finish
Great video
That is a very beautiful stock and your process was very well done!
Really beautiful work! slightly different from the way I do them, but I watch these videos to learn, and I got some great takeaways from your video Thank you!
great result
Hey there boss man‼️
Awesome video‼️
I always wanted to refinish my orginal K31 stock.
Change the color. Add some checking on the grip maybe add a custom wood burned or laser eched image on buttstock‼️
But then I thought thought maybe I'm getting ahead of myself and should just buy a finished stock‼️
Thin thin coats as he said. Thick coats look great going on but will screw you as they are going to run and take a long time to dry. I've been wet sanding wth a scotchbrite pad, very light pressure and tru oil for the sanding liquid, about every other coat or so. After the tru oil wet sand, wipe down with a clean tshirt rag slightly damp with tru oil. It's a quick drying treatment
Lovely black Labrador 👍
Stunning work. Now, I’d be afraid to use it. It looks so good. Great wood to start.
This finish is really easy to touch up. And a few scratches add character. :-)
Beautiful work, absolutely stunning!
It took me awhile to know what "troyal" was but I finally got it. Thanks
Certainly a lot farther South than Havad Yad!
Thanks much young man. I miss Texas.
beautiful work. thanks!
It certainly helps to have a nice lump of timber to start with
I always used EzOff oven cleaner to remove old oil finishes.
@John Beige yep.
I never use a sander on a stock. I have a stock identical to this that i am doing right now. I have been refinishing stocks since 1963. I use glass to lightly scrape the stock with, and very little sand paper.