If you poke a tiny hole in the foil seal instead of removing it altogether, you can just drip it onto the cloth rather than touching the bottle. Then you don't get the crusty bits on the cloth.
i cut a thin slit and apply it with my index finger, which is 100% lint free edit: I have since changed my method to the one the poster uses. Above worked for a while up until the point where it didn't work lol.
It makes a fine finish for hand made musical stringed instruments, too. I know from personal experience. The secret there, as well as in gun stocks, is to remember a few things: 1. It is an oil / varnish finish, with drying agents added. If you put a partially used bottle on the shelf for a year and come back to use it without stirring it, you can bet the drying agents have settled as solids to the bottom. If you don't remix it, you can count on failure. 2. As our host says, it's a very thin finish, built up in many thin coats. If you get impatient and try to build up a few thick coats, you can count on a gummy, nasty failure. But if you do it as advised, and if you are very patient, you can count on a beautiful, high gloss finish. If you don't want it high gloss, just knock it back with some pumice and buff it with a soft wool cloth. PRESTO!...a beautiful egg shell luster!
The same company makes a satinizing agent (Stock Sheen and Conditioner) that also works very well in turning the gloss finish to satin, which is particularly nice for guitar necks. I got a multipack, and that satinizer will probably last me several lifetimes because you only need like 1/4 tsp for an entire neck.
I don't know if you are still monitoring this video after 5 years, but if you are, thanks a lot. I use Tru oil for guitar finishing and your approach has simplified the whole thing for me, plus Farecla is much better than the Meguiar's #9 and #7 I used to use. Brilliant.
That is absolutely beautiful. Never tried this Tru oil finish on a guitar before but I think I am going to try it on a mahogany body. Usually I use Nitrocellulose lacquer, but that is highly toxic and needs to be left for about 2 months to cure before any polishing can happen. The tru oil looks so much better and brings out the character of the wood. And I am imagining that a little goes a long way. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much! Your vid gave me the knowledge and confidence to strip, repair and Tru Oil my 40 year old air rifle's stock. The results are breath taking. Never seen anything like it on a gun I could afford! Thank you again 😁👍
Great video. Tip: Use a rubber band or hair tie to your applicator so you don't have to wrestle with holding the material together to stop the filling coming out.
☠️BLACK BARON☠️ That's what most rifle manufacturers do not offer. The more coats the customers wants, the more glossy and high quality finish it gets, the higher the price which is totally fine since the time investment for more coats is much higher than the standard. I am pretty sure, some rifle customers would pay extra to get this result for their ordered stock. Well done, it looks very nice, high quality, hand-crafted woodwork. 👍
Just viewed your video Neil... Very informative and very useful.... As a fan of older model Air rifles these tips would make any stock look superb... Many thanks
Would you be so kind as to send me the steps by steps process that you take even with the Sandpaper and the codes and the materials you use I would greatly appreciate it what a wonderful job you've done
All that elbow grease, and stick-to-itness. Shows hard work pays off. Almost looks like a Minnelli stock. Good bones to work with for a video, that's for sure. My air arms pro sport came unfinished walnut. I use a coat of Watco wood oil, and buff it after. Comes out nicely for a day. I figure without a high gloss, I can work dings out easier. Haven't got one yet. I handle that rifle like a baby. Good job on that stock, I love it.
Great idea with the kitchen roll and cloth. Have just done this on my stock having previously applied two coats with my finger but have had to steel wool between the coats due to it being streaky but I've just done a 3rd coat with the roll and cloth and the results are so much better
It's beautiful but I used after applying three layers of danish oil, 2k high gloss car varnish with the same result. It's also scratch resistant and remains beautiful after years. I used it also on my mahogany stair rails and it's still beautiful after 8 years. If it's still getting dull after a time, you use some car wax. It's really less work than all that polishing. Try it for yourself with an old piece of wood if you don't believe me. Thank you and have a great shooting time 😊
Sir, that is the best finish job I have ever saw! I bought a Lyman Great Plains that was stained but not finished. I just ordered sandpaper, cheese cloth, and a very nice True Oil Kit. I wish you could coach me through doing my stock, but listening to your accent, it tells me that we are just way too far from one another. I sure hope I don't screw it up.
Dont panic, you will be fine. Ger the lint free cloth. Make the pads. Press on HARD - spread the finish real thin. Do lots of coats. A fine coat doesn't take long to dry. If you get a bit of rough or uneven finish,get some real fine wire wool and just flat it then put another couple of coats on. Take your time, enjoy :)
I was going to message on Facebook too see where you had gone, I love your videos and I’ve probably watched nearly all of them. More springer shooting pleas
Hey from Tennessee. I used your video on the bleach to take stock back to the " white " . Been a few ago. I'm a sub but no notifications. Found you by folly. I used your example to make my M1 Garand beautiful. However I finished with many coats of Tung oil. I've missed your vids. Thanks 💥💥💥👏
Also with tru oil to make it last longer (it goes off ) put a tiny pin hole in the foil cap near the edge of the lid and squeeze a little out at a time .. it doesnt set in the bottle then
If you poke a small hole in the foil under the lid you can regulate your pour more accurately, and it helps prevent that skin from forming. I just use the tip of a pen and that works great. Cheers!
Been seeing so many ways to refinish a stock. I'm refinishing the stock on an Remington Bolt-action .22lr. After removing the old finish and cleaning it, I've added the Birchwood-Casey walnut stain. I then plan on applying their sealer to it, then applying the tru oil. My goal is to get a glossy finish following their directions.
If you had used the sand paper in conjunction with tru oil on your first 2 coats that would have filled the pores/ grain then you wouldn't have to do so many coats , if you use mineral oil in-between coats the finish would be really a silky smooth high gloss without the use of any rubbing compounds . Looks good though , nice job .
When I use TruOil on my guitar necks I build up the layers much like you do, but after 6 coats or however many I want I dry it for several days then buff it out with a scrap piece of clean denim cut from an old pair of blues jeans.
That is beautiful I wish mine would come out like that I have an issue with sanding it and then when I cover the the grips where the check ring is then it looks bad cuz I'm covering the grit
I need to strip my beech gamo coyote because its got a few dents. Its a really nice dark finish but if when stripped the wood is nice im going to try this.
Tru oil. Lint free cloth to make the pads. You can use either cloth or anything else that will just soak up a bit of oil to use for the middle of the pad. Small amounts of oil per coat - rub hard.
I wish I can have mine come out like that if you can send me an instructional wording on it I would appreciate it so I can do it exactly like you did thank you for the video
Thanks for the video! I’m about to finish the back and sides of a guitar - I had bought tung oil but I think it will take too long to dry so tru oil is my next option. How long would you leave it between coats? Many thanks!
Hi Neil, I have just seen your vid on the try oil method and it looks a great finish, just what I'm looking for. Could you tell me how you dealt with the chequering? did you sand down like the rest of it as well as the oil? I see some suggest thinning out the first couple of coats to help fill the grain, what's your feelings about that method?
What about treating the stock surface with wood grain filler first and then doing the Tru Oil treatment? Would that aide in having to use less oil coats? Any thoughts?
I've been working on a Traditions muzzle loader for a few weeks and got to the oil finish, 5-6 coats in and it looks great except mine is slightly blotchy with a lot of high points. I knocked it down with 0000 steel wool but I keep getting bits of steel dust everywhere and it looks like I'm back to bare wood. I know I went a little heavy with my fingers so I'm going to try your method with the towel and lint free cloth. How long is a good drying time? I'm on about 5-6 hours earliest. Best part about wood working is if you don't like it, it's fairly easy to undo and try again.
I actually dont know. I try not to let any water get in my Stocks and if it does, I wipe it off almost immediately. It's the same stuff that many folks use for finishing guitars. Maybe google the specs of tru oil to see how water resistant it is.
@@shootingatdawn thanks for your response. But may I know which varnish would you recommend to me for the bathroom or for water exposed areas? I will look for it if its available in our country. Im sorry for my bad english.
Im refinishing thestock on a 40 yr old weihrauch hw35 ive stained the stock after taking back to bare wood. And the last grade paper i went over it with was 280grit whats the finest grit you would go upto before applying the tru oil. My worry is that if i sand it to fine it may seal the wood and not allow tge tru oil to soak in? Thanks in advance love the videos👍
The coats I put on were as thin as possible. That means it dries quickly and there is less chance of getting irregular build ups of tru oil which easily happens if you try the finger application technique. I would give it 3 or 4 coats and then flat back only if I thought it necessary. You can play it by ear. If it's looking great- carry on. If it's looking a little irregular anywhere, flat it back and then carry on :)
If you do it this way, it won't take long for the coats to dry - maybe an hour or two. Have a piece of scrap wood available and coat that at the same time. Then you can use it to test if its touch dry rather than the stock itself.
Yes all those coats came out of one small bottle. Using the pad method that I use, a little goes a long way - nice thin coats! Drying time, not long and in the recent warm weather we have had it takes even less time. I could do at least two coats a day but I was in no rush so I could happily leave a day between coats.
It's all about how it looks. It is a lot easier using this technique to avoid thick build ups and runs. I basically only used wire wool if I wanted to flatten the finish to remove and rippling or "orange peel" type surface.
@@shootingatdawn after my first coat of tru oil ive noticed the walnut stain could do with another coat would it be ok to rub with 000 wool and apply more stain ? Thanks again !
@@JohnG-gu5wo I have never done that but all I can say is try it and see. If the trul oil has sealed the wood , the stain won't take. The worst that can happen is that you have to strip it and start again.
If you poke a tiny hole in the foil seal instead of removing it altogether, you can just drip it onto the cloth rather than touching the bottle. Then you don't get the crusty bits on the cloth.
i cut a thin slit and apply it with my index finger, which is 100% lint free
edit: I have since changed my method to the one the poster uses. Above worked for a while up until the point where it didn't work lol.
Thanks. That trick worked great
That's exactly what I do and also wipe down after every use with thinners should it need it to keep it that way .
It makes a fine finish for hand made musical stringed instruments, too. I know from personal experience. The secret there, as well as in gun stocks, is to remember a few things: 1. It is an oil / varnish finish, with drying agents added. If you put a partially used bottle on the shelf for a year and come back to use it without stirring it, you can bet the drying agents have settled as solids to the bottom. If you don't remix it, you can count on failure. 2. As our host says, it's a very thin finish, built up in many thin coats. If you get impatient and try to build up a few thick coats, you can count on a gummy, nasty failure. But if you do it as advised, and if you are very patient, you can count on a beautiful, high gloss finish. If you don't want it high gloss, just knock it back with some pumice and buff it with a soft wool cloth. PRESTO!...a beautiful egg shell luster!
The same company makes a satinizing agent (Stock Sheen and Conditioner) that also works very well in turning the gloss finish to satin, which is particularly nice for guitar necks. I got a multipack, and that satinizer will probably last me several lifetimes because you only need like 1/4 tsp for an entire neck.
I don't know if you are still monitoring this video after 5 years, but if you are, thanks a lot. I use Tru oil for guitar finishing and your approach has simplified the whole thing for me, plus Farecla is much better than the Meguiar's #9 and #7 I used to use. Brilliant.
Thats not a gun stock....thats a masterpiece👌🏻
Thanks Neil, great to see you back making interesting & helpful videos :)
That is absolutely beautiful. Never tried this Tru oil finish on a guitar before but I think I am going to try it on a mahogany body. Usually I use Nitrocellulose lacquer, but that is highly toxic and needs to be left for about 2 months to cure before any polishing can happen. The tru oil looks so much better and brings out the character of the wood. And I am imagining that a little goes a long way.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much!
Your vid gave me the knowledge and confidence to strip, repair and Tru Oil my 40 year old air rifle's stock.
The results are breath taking.
Never seen anything like it on a gun I could afford!
Thank you again 😁👍
Great video. Tip: Use a rubber band or hair tie to your applicator so you don't have to wrestle with holding the material together to stop the filling coming out.
This is really helpful for getting a gloss finish on my guitar. Thank you.
Fair bit of work you put in mate, ruddy good job!
☠️BLACK BARON☠️ That's what most rifle manufacturers do not offer. The more coats the customers wants, the more glossy and high quality finish it gets, the higher the price which is totally fine since the time investment for more coats is much higher than the standard. I am pretty sure, some rifle customers would pay extra to get this result for their ordered stock. Well done, it looks very nice, high quality, hand-crafted woodwork. 👍
Thank you sir :)
Well done! Beautiful finish! Hope to do as well on my next guitar build!
I'm here because I wanted paint my guitar... so far this is a best video and result. I love your work!
@Shael Utah Yes I have, This is one of the best method. Nice and clean, no fumes no mess.
Just viewed your video Neil... Very informative and very useful.... As a fan of older model Air rifles these tips would make any stock look superb... Many thanks
Would you be so kind as to send me the steps by steps process that you take even with the Sandpaper and the codes and the materials you use I would greatly appreciate it what a wonderful job you've done
Thanks for sharing
True-Oil gun stock finish providing the preparation is good an excellent finish will be achieved. Nice stick you have. 👌
All that elbow grease, and stick-to-itness. Shows hard work pays off. Almost looks like a Minnelli stock. Good bones to work with for a video, that's for sure.
My air arms pro sport came unfinished walnut. I use a coat of Watco wood oil, and buff it after. Comes out nicely for a day. I figure without a high gloss, I can work dings out easier. Haven't got one yet. I handle that rifle like a baby. Good job on that stock, I love it.
Great idea with the kitchen roll and cloth. Have just done this on my stock having previously applied two coats with my finger but have had to steel wool between the coats due to it being streaky but I've just done a 3rd coat with the roll and cloth and the results are so much better
It's beautiful but I used after applying three layers of danish oil, 2k high gloss car varnish with the same result. It's also scratch resistant and remains beautiful after years. I used it also on my mahogany stair rails and it's still beautiful after 8 years.
If it's still getting dull after a time, you use some car wax. It's really less work than all that polishing. Try it for yourself with an old piece of wood if you don't believe me. Thank you and have a great shooting time 😊
Sir, that is the best finish job I have ever saw! I bought a Lyman Great Plains that was stained but not finished. I just ordered sandpaper, cheese cloth, and a very nice True Oil Kit. I wish you could coach me through doing my stock, but listening to your accent, it tells me that we are just way too far from one another. I sure hope I don't screw it up.
Dont panic, you will be fine. Ger the lint free cloth. Make the pads. Press on HARD - spread the finish real thin. Do lots of coats. A fine coat doesn't take long to dry. If you get a bit of rough or uneven finish,get some real fine wire wool and just flat it then put another couple of coats on. Take your time, enjoy :)
@@shootingatdawn Which car cutting product did you use in the end?
@@LigerSupremacy farecla
What a superb finish! I’m going to be copying this process but for a guitar
How did your guitar come out? I am ready to use his method on a maple solid lap steel body I am making...
@@JohnSims3 it came out beautifully though lots and lots of coats and buffing
@@matt6288joyce Great! thank you!
@@matt6288joyce how many
stunning result! will follow your method
Starting today my first 1943 Mosin restoration )))
Love shiny finishes
I was going to message on Facebook too see where you had gone, I love your videos and I’ve probably watched nearly all of them. More springer shooting pleas
Got a couple in the pipeline. :)
A labor of love. Stunning!!
Hoooray 🙌🏼 Great to see you back. Love all your videos
You are a doctor in The Finishing
Hey from Tennessee. I used your video on the bleach to take stock back to the " white " . Been a few ago. I'm a sub but no notifications. Found you by folly. I used your example to make my M1 Garand beautiful. However I finished with many coats of Tung oil. I've missed your vids. Thanks 💥💥💥👏
Glad it helped mate :)
Great video! I just started my first ever stock refinish on a Cogswell and Harrison .303 I acquired. This video will really help me out! Thanks
Also with tru oil to make it last longer (it goes off ) put a tiny pin hole in the foil cap near the edge of the lid and squeeze a little out at a time .. it doesnt set in the bottle then
Anther cracking video, Neil. Thanks for sharing
Cracking video? He isn't cracking anything.
If you poke a small hole in the foil under the lid you can regulate your pour more accurately, and it helps prevent that skin from forming. I just use the tip of a pen and that works great.
Cheers!
I'm curious how long you are waiting in between coats
Gorgeous ❤ Thank you for your help
Really nice job
Nice job! Cool gun stock.
Man that's a good looking stock!!
Thanks :)
Thanks for the help. I like your methods. I’m a better craftsman because of it.
Been seeing so many ways to refinish a stock. I'm refinishing the stock on an Remington Bolt-action .22lr. After removing the old finish and cleaning it, I've added the Birchwood-Casey walnut stain. I then plan on applying their sealer to it, then applying the tru oil. My goal is to get a glossy finish following their directions.
Great video! Very smart way to apply the Tru Oil, thank you 😊
Great Work and Results!!! I feel like getting my Pair of Diana mod 52,s Out now and give the stocks a bit of TLC :-)
@Clark Roberto Its a Scam be warned!
@Hendrix Sutton its a Scam Be Warned!!!
Nice job
If you had used the sand paper in conjunction with tru oil on your first 2 coats that would have filled the pores/ grain then you wouldn't have to do so many coats , if you use mineral oil in-between coats the finish would be really a silky smooth high gloss without the use of any rubbing compounds . Looks good though , nice job .
When I use TruOil on my guitar necks I build up the layers much like you do, but after 6 coats or however many I want I dry it for several days then buff it out with a scrap piece of clean denim cut from an old pair of blues jeans.
Nice tip - thanks :)
Are you just buffing with the denim or are you using a wax, etc?
@@LateBoomerGR I start with dry denim. If I thinking need cut more, I'll use buffing compound. And I've got used it once.
That's absolutely beautiful,
Iv tried and tried doing it myself but I just can't get anywhere near to what you have been able to do.
Just keep adding thin coats mate. It will come.
Nice Stock 👌
Lovely work. Would you consider BC Gunstock Wax to finish?
I’m not sure I’d take that gun outside. That’s a piece of art.
Great work, looks fantastic 👌🏻
Its absolute gorgeous
First class job. Did you flatten back after every coat, or every 3 or 4 coats.
Thnx
That’s unreal....great results
Beautiful wood !
What did you use to polish it at the end?
I could not understand what you said.
If you are still monitoring, he said Farecla, and it is really good. On Amazon.
Sounds like Lemmy. 😅 Great finish 👍
Well done.
Beautiful work!
How long between coats do you wait pal
Looks great, how much time did you have to wait between coats
What was the last product you used on the pink cloth. I thought I heard compound
I’ve like to know this too!
What was the compound did u use sir ? An how many times did u repeat the process . You did a magnificent job on that stock .
That is beautiful I wish mine would come out like that I have an issue with sanding it and then when I cover the the grips where the check ring is then it looks bad cuz I'm covering the grit
I need to strip my beech gamo coyote because its got a few dents. Its a really nice dark finish but if when stripped the wood is nice im going to try this.
You may find that once you have stripped the wood that it is very light in colour. You may need to stain it before applying tru oil.
Beautiful
Very nice job ! 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
I thought your video helped a lot could you tell me what stuff you used so I can get the same material. Thanks
Tru oil. Lint free cloth to make the pads. You can use either cloth or anything else that will just soak up a bit of oil to use for the middle of the pad. Small amounts of oil per coat - rub hard.
Thanks what sand paper did you use and that t cut thing.
I wish I can have mine come out like that if you can send me an instructional wording on it I would appreciate it so I can do it exactly like you did thank you for the video
Well done Well done.
Is that finish now waterproof?
Thanks for the video! I’m about to finish the back and sides of a guitar - I had bought tung oil but I think it will take too long to dry so tru oil is my next option. How long would you leave it between coats? Many thanks!
Hi Neil, I have just seen your vid on the try oil method and it looks a great finish, just what I'm looking for. Could you tell me how you dealt with the chequering? did you sand down like the rest of it as well as the oil? I see some suggest thinning out the first couple of coats to help fill the grain, what's your feelings about that method?
How long do you have to wait so it will dry in between coats? Before you do the sanding?
How many bottles of trueoil Wher needed for this finish 🤔
Hi Neil,
Sorry to bother you but how long do you leave between each coat?
Take care
Paul,,
I put them on really thin. Small amount on the pad and rub hard. It only takes a couple of hours between coats if you do it like that.
@@shootingatdawn Thank you Neil...
What about treating the stock surface with wood grain filler first and then doing the Tru Oil treatment? Would that aide in having to use less oil coats? Any thoughts?
Give it a try, it cant do any harm. I basically used the first fine coat as a sealer. It doesn't need much when you apply it this way.
The sanded wood fills any small cracks
Is 120 grid sand paper considered fine grade sandpaper in your area? I'd call 120 pretty coarse and scratchy.
How long you leave it to dry mate between coats
How many times you use the steel wool? Every time between coats until the final coat you leave it?
I've been working on a Traditions muzzle loader for a few weeks and got to the oil finish, 5-6 coats in and it looks great except mine is slightly blotchy with a lot of high points. I knocked it down with 0000 steel wool but I keep getting bits of steel dust everywhere and it looks like I'm back to bare wood. I know I went a little heavy with my fingers so I'm going to try your method with the towel and lint free cloth.
How long is a good drying time? I'm on about 5-6 hours earliest.
Best part about wood working is if you don't like it, it's fairly easy to undo and try again.
What did you use for a polish to make it shine? I have some really fine vehicle paint polish, would that work?
Is that waterproof? Can I use it in furniture or any wood on bathroom?
I actually dont know. I try not to let any water get in my Stocks and if it does, I wipe it off almost immediately. It's the same stuff that many folks use for finishing guitars. Maybe google the specs of tru oil to see how water resistant it is.
@@shootingatdawn thanks for your response. But may I know which varnish would you recommend to me for the bathroom or for water exposed areas? I will look for it if its available in our country. Im sorry for my bad english.
@@jeffreyestrera4974 yacht varnish.
Im refinishing thestock on a 40 yr old weihrauch hw35 ive stained the stock after taking back to bare wood. And the last grade paper i went over it with was 280grit whats the finest grit you would go upto before applying the tru oil. My worry is that if i sand it to fine it may seal the wood and not allow tge tru oil to soak in? Thanks in advance love the videos👍
so you french polish with tru oil instead of Shelac
How do you think it’ll go on knife handles
What did you use to polish it? I didn’t understand what product you used.
I used farecla car body polish. It is a finishing polish with a mich fine grit than t cut.
Farecla car body polish. Very very fine grit polish.
great video! so to get a high/satin finish rather than a gloss finish just lightly rub with 0000 wire wool, or apply less coats?
I'm not the original poster, but yes, or pumice.
Did you sand in between coats? Or did you later a good few coats up first then sand back a bit?
The coats I put on were as thin as possible. That means it dries quickly and there is less chance of getting irregular build ups of tru oil which easily happens if you try the finger application technique. I would give it 3 or 4 coats and then flat back only if I thought it necessary. You can play it by ear. If it's looking great- carry on. If it's looking a little irregular anywhere, flat it back and then carry on :)
@@shootingatdawn great advice! And just in time to by the looks of it! Cheers, and what a finish on the gun stock!
Sorry if I mist it but how long do ‘you’ leave it before each coat or do you just follow the oil instructions? Thanks
If you do it this way, it won't take long for the coats to dry - maybe an hour or two. Have a piece of scrap wood available and coat that at the same time. Then you can use it to test if its touch dry rather than the stock itself.
Nice work, using on my guitar build and looking for tips, thanks.
Me too dude.
How long between coats? Did all those coats come out of one 3oz bottle?
Yes all those coats came out of one small bottle. Using the pad method that I use, a little goes a long way - nice thin coats! Drying time, not long and in the recent warm weather we have had it takes even less time. I could do at least two coats a day but I was in no rush so I could happily leave a day between coats.
Using this in a knife handle but can’t find any 0000 steel wool any alternatives
Hvad er det for noget papir du bruger
Could Not understand what you put on the leatherlike cloth to knock it down prior to polishing. Anyone?? Something automotive i think?
How many coats before you use the steel wool ?
It's all about how it looks. It is a lot easier using this technique to avoid thick build ups and runs. I basically only used wire wool if I wanted to flatten the finish to remove and rippling or "orange peel" type surface.
Do you wirewool it between every coat? Great video thank you
I didn't wire wool it every time. I simply felt the finish and if I thought it needed flatting a little i would gently wire wool it.
Ive been told to mask up the grippy parts until the final coat of oil is this correct mate?
Up to you. Tru oil is semi synthetic so it dries hard. If you are using a pure oil I would go with that suggestion.
@@shootingatdawn after my first coat of tru oil ive noticed the walnut stain could do with another coat would it be ok to rub with 000 wool and apply more stain ? Thanks again !
@@JohnG-gu5wo I have never done that but all I can say is try it and see. If the trul oil has sealed the wood , the stain won't take. The worst that can happen is that you have to strip it and start again.
nice
what was used in the final polishin step?
Take it this method is largly depedant on the having a really nice pieve of wood?
You will never get great grain unless it is there to start with. However, you can achieve this standard of finish on any piece of wood.
@@shootingatdawn thanks