The ways Larry teaches are the ways it was originally supposed to be done, by craftsmen. Not the fast & easy answer in a can or plastic is fantastic resolution. These videos are Fantastic...
Okay, geriatric. Go sit at the gun show with your jiggly beer belly and an increasingly sour face and attitude as nobody wants to buy your musty Y2K stockpile of .22lr for $2 a round.
Wow, what can I say except thank you so much for sharing this Larry Potterfield. You absolutely have some of the best if not all of the best gunsmithing videos out there, and I am supposedly a master gunsmith according to one of the schools. You have many years of training and experience, which you share freely in these videos, and this is absolutely on of the best of the best.
This is what all CEO s of companies should be like. Know their business with hands on knowledge. Larry needs to run for president of this country!! I would vote for him over the last guys in office any day!!
@@Peter-976 so tell me how Hillary was gonna be better. Tell me how you can be against a president that works for the working man, not corporate America. Only president in my life who has delivered on his campaign promises and has brought us back to being a respected country with a real leader. Lose your hate and not nearly as much of your ignorance will show.
Good job, after sanding and 3 layers of danish oil, I spray 3 layers of 2k clear coat high gloss for cars and it's amazing how beautiful and scratch resistant. It remains beautiful for years. A lot easier to do and a very durable finish
I was looking for a way to fill the grain prior to finishing a gunstock with tung oil, so I find this video very informative, but it takes forever to finish a stock following every instruction in this video. I've already finished a stock (previously sealed) with tung and teak with success. Now, what I'm going to try is put in practice the general idea of this video with more practical products : Sealing with 2-3 coats of wipe-on poly (thinned poly), followed by the 3-4 coats wet sanding of my own recipe of danish oil (6 parts of Circa Tung and Teak, 4 parts of Minwax satin oil/urethane varnish, 1% Japan dryer, no thinner). With this recipe drying time is down to 2-3 hours, and there's no need for a drying cabinet as long as the temperature is 20 degrees Celsius or over (68 F +) . Wish me luck!
I'm refinishinga Monte Kennedy stock on a rifle that Pfeifer built up on a Mauser action in the mid-1950's here in California. I'm up to my 6th coat of linseed oil as we kill time here on lockdown. What a great way to live in the slow lane doing a linseed oil finish. Thanks for the video Larry!
I get the same results from Daly’s “ship to shore” product and it only take 3 days at most. Once you hit 220 grit apply let dry (04:00:00) then repeat using 320,400,600,800,1000,1200 grit sand papers then dry polishing wheel.
I just got to say you are a icon in my book. I would love to take a tour of Midway USA . I would be like a 6 year old in a candy store. 👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸 love your videos
Surprized you didn.t use that Gilbert Myles gun stock you sale very good worked super nice on mine don.t worry Larry like always with you it looks super
A question to Midway USA: Now that Behlen's rockhard table top varnish is polyurethane based (old non-poly formula no longer available) would you still recommend its use or would you please recommend an (non-poly) alternative ? Thanks a lot in advance!
Just curious if anyone has tried Shaftol, on a stock. Not that I have seen it sold in the USA, it comes from the Ballistol company, brought a can when I moved back to the states. It is linseed oil with different colors, mine is a red tint, and has silicone additives. It is what the gunsmiths at the gun shop I worked at in Germany use to finish stocks.
Instead of shellac or varnish as a wood filler, why not use a gellatin or water reduced hide glue? that's what we do when making violins and only 1 coat is needed.
+Mathias Chaidez I seriously doubt you're treating the violins the same way they'll be treating that rifle. As much of a pain in the ass it is to do all of that the surface ends up being super tough ... and that's on top of being completely sealed. Both of those qualities are very important for such a thing as a rifle stock considering the type of work it'll be performing and the type of environment it's expected to perform in , so comparison to a violin (which is normally babied) finish is incorrect.
what kind of dryers do you add to the b.l.o.the boiled linseed oil that they used in the 18th-19th centuries had lead and other dryers that we now know are toxic. the b.l.o. that we use now doesn't have any dryers that i know of. i have friends that add a lot of japan dryers to their b.l.o., but i just don't use it. it's not a very strong finnish, meaning it may be o.k. for a firearm that doesn't leave the safe more than once or twice a year, but for a flintlock brush gun, nope.all iv'e ever gotten was cracking and crazing. i love your video's. as a self taught black powder gun builder, the video's you produce are informative and very helpfull. thank you very much.
I've been woodworking for a long time, by far natural and traditional finishes are my favorite to work with hands down. while I'll be honest and say synthetic finishes such as epoxy, resins like polyester, lacquer like urethane or acrylic can be much stronger, wear resistant and weather resistant. You just don't get the beauty and feel you do using traditional Lacquers like Shellac, Nitrocellulose, oils and varnishes, waxes. EVEN BARE WOOD SANDED SMOOTH.. No really. Although I don't think I'd recomend the two latter for a rifle stock ha. The sweat from your hands would most likely cause your stock to swell. Take that out for a rainy day and you'll have yourself a fat, soggy, misaligned gunstock at the end.. Softer, more natural finishes wear over time yes, but that'll just give your wood character. Something you can't really appreciate with plastics. Not to mention traditional finishes are often easy to fix without disturbing the rest of your piece or using harsh chemicals. Though everyone has their personal preference. Larry dose great work on his stock finishing videos he seems like he knows all the trade tricks.
Man could I sent my dads ruger 44 mag carbine to be restored an rerifled I cant find a good gun smith around here that I can trust to do it right or trust them in general
Gary RUclips how did I think about this just five minutes ago and it show up on my feed I have not searched this I've never done this in my life I have an old gun I purchased a few years ago and I was just thinking about doing this today
I would avoid polyurethanes on a gunstocks because it's pretty thick and the hardness with use can chip off. I've seen it before and trust me, it's no fun trying to fill spots of polyurethane to match the existing coat. Stick with Linseed Oil (boiled dries faster) or Tung Oil is my advice.
YES I HAVE. Modern automotive clear coats are far superior to Larry's finishes. I have been doing it for over twenty years. Color sanding and polishing will last way longer, and give much greater depth than anything this video shows- FACT.
Water based polys are not as tough, go one clear without really adding any depth or definition, and they will raise the grain of the wood. I use it on some furniture I refinish, but I use a washcoat of dewaxed shellac to pop the grain first.
I could not locate this product anywhere. It appears the company was bought out and the same varnish is now polyurethane based. My guess is that the EPA killed off the original varnish.
I'd love to know if PURE tung oil might be a viable alternative to linseed oil. I'm a huge fan of all these instructional videos - the stock finishing dvd with the miles Gilbert kit was even more informative than the RUclips videos are!
Srs. MidwayUsa, saludos, deseo hacerles una consulta y es lo siguiente, tengo un rifle remington modelo 51o monotiro, he visto en internet que el modelo 511 viene con magazin de 6 cargas, la pregunta es al modelo mio 510 le puedo adaptar magazin de 12 cargas? me pueden ayudar con algun plano o video sobre esto?
Legend has it, he's still applying coats to that stock.
Yes he and we do on my custom hunting rifles every year or so! Been collecting the nearly rifles for 60+ years and still looking for the perfect one🤔😳
The ways Larry teaches are the ways it was originally supposed to be done, by craftsmen. Not the fast & easy answer in a can or plastic is fantastic resolution. These videos are Fantastic...
Evan Moyer *Groan*
Ok boomer
@@Metroid545454 Junior Twit chimes in.
Okay, geriatric. Go sit at the gun show with your jiggly beer belly and an increasingly sour face and attitude as nobody wants to buy your musty Y2K stockpile of .22lr for $2 a round.
Excellent work, Larry... You do things the way they used to be, and should be done. This kind of craftsmanship needs to be kept alive.
Wow, what can I say except thank you so much for sharing this Larry Potterfield. You absolutely have some of the best if not all of the best gunsmithing videos out there, and I am supposedly a master gunsmith according to one of the schools. You have many years of training and experience, which you share freely in these videos, and this is absolutely on of the best of the best.
Beautiful work! I've never seen such a capable CEO :)
Maybe I should buy stock in his company. Get it? STOCK. Hahahhahahah.
He’s the CEO?! That’s awesome. He’s so good
@@AFishBicycle Not anymore, he retired in March. Their marketing guy was promoted to CEO
I am totally blown away by the craftsmanship! That has got to be an expensive piece of art work.
The way Larry respects all of his guns is exactly how it should be for every firearm. And that's the way it is
Love the guys' videos. Always learn something. Usually it is patience.
Seriously a true Craftsman. Can’t beat
best practices.
Wow. The guy won't take second best, love these videos, what a craftsman.
This is what all CEO s of companies should be like. Know their business with hands on knowledge. Larry needs to run for president of this country!! I would vote for him over the last guys in office any day!!
Raphiel Monendez Larry 2020
That would be awesome. He could end every Presidential speech with "And that's the way it is, muthafukas!"
Your wish would be a dream come true!
Anybody would be better than this asshole we have in the WH now.
@@Peter-976 so tell me how Hillary was gonna be better. Tell me how you can be against a president that works for the working man, not corporate America. Only president in my life who has delivered on his campaign promises and has brought us back to being a respected country with a real leader. Lose your hate and not nearly as much of your ignorance will show.
Great job of imparting knowledge. Old school is still the best.
A perfect explanation on how to use linseed oil. Nice.
Great workmanship - starting to understand the price of such a stock.
Good job, after sanding and 3 layers of danish oil, I spray 3 layers of 2k clear coat high gloss for cars and it's amazing how beautiful and scratch resistant. It remains beautiful for years. A lot easier to do and a very durable finish
I was looking for a way to fill the grain prior to finishing a gunstock with tung oil, so I find this video very informative, but it takes forever to finish a stock following every instruction in this video. I've already finished a stock (previously sealed) with tung and teak with success. Now, what I'm going to try is put in practice the general idea of this video with more practical products : Sealing with 2-3 coats of wipe-on poly (thinned poly), followed by the 3-4 coats wet sanding of my own recipe of danish oil (6 parts of Circa Tung and Teak, 4 parts of Minwax satin oil/urethane varnish, 1% Japan dryer, no thinner). With this recipe drying time is down to 2-3 hours, and there's no need for a drying cabinet as long as the temperature is 20 degrees Celsius or over (68 F +) . Wish me luck!
I'm refinishinga Monte Kennedy stock on a rifle that Pfeifer built up on a Mauser action in the mid-1950's here in California.
I'm up to my 6th coat of linseed oil as we kill time here on lockdown. What a great way to live in the slow lane doing a linseed oil finish.
Thanks for the video Larry!
Larry is a stud .. I did not realize the depth of his skill and knowledge ..
That stock turned out beautiful.
God bless America, this is a mind-numbing process. I am consistently amazed Larry Potterfield hasn't lost his mind trying to be patient.
Larry, your carpentry skills are excellent.
That stock looks fantastic
Your skill is outstanding. I wish I could learn from a master like you
You just did.
fantastic stockwork Larry! Thanks!
That is a gorgeous finish!
Varnish and THEN Blo? This is why I love Larry's videos. Keep up the good work Midway.
I could watch these all day.
I get the same results from Daly’s “ship to shore” product and it only take 3 days at most. Once you hit 220 grit apply let dry (04:00:00) then repeat using 320,400,600,800,1000,1200 grit sand papers then dry polishing wheel.
I just got to say you are a icon in my book. I would love to take a tour of Midway USA . I would be like a 6 year old in a candy store. 👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸 love your videos
Beautifull finish im soon to aquire an american walnut stock for my 97k . Looking forward to finishing it myself Joe UK
Did anyone else notice he grew a beard by 5:36....Must be a really long process ;)
each layer took 3 days x 8 layers lol long enough to grow it lol
Yea I seen that to.
Or he has a bad fungal facial disfunction
Lol 😂
Your personal collection must be amazing
Beautifully done! I'd be proud to carry that anywhere, although as Beautiful as it is I'd probably leave it in the gunsafe and take my old Model 700!
Wow this was very complex. I'm going to have to watch it a few more times to understand it.
Bar top varnish on my BAR stock. Im redoing the stock. Im already at the wet sanding part.
Surprized you didn.t use that Gilbert Myles gun stock you sale very good worked super nice on mine don.t worry Larry like always with you it looks super
I never tire of hearing Larry say "morsture"
I'd like to know if that drying cabinet is custom made or commercial made.
that is a crazy amount of time and dedication to just one stock
Well worth it.
your an idiot
You can always work on another project in the time between
Just buy a synthetic stock then!
Man iam going to get some water in a bowl an do that finger trick 😂
I did but forgot it was my hot coffee,ouch
Good to see ya used some gloves Larry! haha. Awesome job as usual.
That’s one kickass finish
That is a very nice stock!!
Not familiar with "Rottenstone" over here Larry, could it be powdered Pumice ?
What do you do over checkered areas?
Some projects can’t be rushed!
This process took so long he had full beard at the end
Did this on my stevens 315
And my 51 navy.
And the wood is gorgeous much better than the factory finish showed
Back into the gun safe..never to see the light of day again, much less taking afield to risk scratching it.....good job!
A question to Midway USA:
Now that Behlen's rockhard table top varnish is polyurethane based (old non-poly formula no longer available) would you still recommend its use or would you please recommend an (non-poly) alternative ?
Thanks a lot in advance!
Just curious if anyone has tried Shaftol, on a stock. Not that I have seen it sold in the USA, it comes from the Ballistol company, brought a can when I moved back to the states. It is linseed oil with different colors, mine is a red tint, and has silicone additives. It is what the gunsmiths at the gun shop I worked at in Germany use to finish stocks.
I see bar top varnish is used, does this differ from any other varnish/spar varnish for this application?
Unfortunately I don't have the patience for all the sanding and recoating... beutiful job.
That's what I need to do with the stock on my Winchester Model 60. It was already nearly black and cruddy when I got it 50 years ago.
Your the best Larry...thanks
Nice detail in explaining
I love the old ways
My preference is tru oil much easier and quicker but you do you bud.
What a pain in the ass!!! Unbelievable how many steps are required for this!
Well if you don't like to do it right, just go buy a new gun.
Thank GOD. FOR SOME BEAUTIFUL WOOD
More videpw like this please!
Instead of shellac or varnish as a wood filler, why not use a gellatin or water reduced hide glue? that's what we do when making violins and only 1 coat is needed.
+Mathias Chaidez I seriously doubt you're treating the violins the same way they'll be treating that rifle. As much of a pain in the ass it is to do all of that the surface ends up being super tough ... and that's on top of being completely sealed. Both of those qualities are very important for such a thing as a rifle stock considering the type of work it'll be performing and the type of environment it's expected to perform in , so comparison to a violin (which is normally babied) finish is incorrect.
Would the finish on your violins stand up to the elements outdoors? Sun, rain, snow, cold, heat?
That was beautiful
Anything else you can use in place of rottenstone?
what kind of dryers do you add to the b.l.o.the boiled linseed oil that they used in the 18th-19th centuries had lead and other dryers that we now know are toxic. the b.l.o. that we use now doesn't have any dryers that i know of. i have friends that add a lot of japan dryers to their b.l.o., but i just don't use it. it's not a very strong finnish, meaning it may be o.k. for a firearm that doesn't leave the safe more than once or twice a year, but for a flintlock brush gun, nope.all iv'e ever gotten was cracking and crazing. i love your video's. as a self taught black powder gun builder, the video's you produce are informative and very helpfull. thank you very much.
I cant find this varnish can someone tell me please where I can buy this product thanks .
Behlen Rockhard™ Table Top Varnish $24.99 Rockler, $29.95 Amazon.
Midway.....i dont know
I've been woodworking for a long time, by far natural and traditional finishes are my favorite to work with hands down. while I'll be honest and say synthetic finishes such as epoxy, resins like polyester, lacquer like urethane or acrylic can be much stronger, wear resistant and weather resistant. You just don't get the beauty and feel you do using traditional Lacquers like Shellac, Nitrocellulose, oils and varnishes, waxes. EVEN BARE WOOD SANDED SMOOTH.. No really. Although I don't think I'd recomend the two latter for a rifle stock ha. The sweat from your hands would most likely cause your stock to swell. Take that out for a rainy day and you'll have yourself a fat, soggy, misaligned gunstock at the end..
Softer, more natural finishes wear over time yes, but that'll just give your wood character. Something you can't really appreciate with plastics. Not to mention traditional finishes are often easy to fix without disturbing the rest of your piece or using harsh chemicals. Though everyone has their personal preference. Larry dose great work on his stock finishing videos he seems like he knows all the trade tricks.
We must rub with rottenstone before the last coat of oil got dry? This is not very clear.
After
Got a K 98....should I put anything on the wood to take care of it ? Thanks
0:46 good God that's beautiful!!
How long do you need for dry time if you do not have a drying cabinet?
Do you have to sand the gunstock after each coat of varnish or only after the 3 layers?
What is rotten stone the last step in the stock finish dept?
Larry got that al gore beard thing going on. I used this method On my lc smith looks great took 6 days between coats !
....did you HAVE to bring up that name? lol ugh
dudes a badass! very nice
Wow, incredible, what is possible.
Beautiful.
Man could I sent my dads ruger 44 mag carbine to be restored an rerifled I cant find a good gun smith around here that I can trust to do it right or trust them in general
Gary RUclips how did I think about this just five minutes ago and it show up on my feed I have not searched this I've never done this in my life I have an old gun I purchased a few years ago and I was just thinking about doing this today
He sanded so long he grew a beard lol
Has anyone ever tried water based polyurethane varnish instead? I'm just wondering how well it works ...
I would avoid polyurethanes on a gunstocks because it's pretty thick and the hardness with use can chip off. I've seen it before and trust me,
it's no fun trying to fill spots of polyurethane to match the existing coat. Stick with Linseed Oil (boiled dries faster) or Tung Oil is my advice.
YES I HAVE. Modern automotive clear coats are far superior to Larry's finishes.
I have been doing it for over twenty years. Color sanding and polishing will last way longer, and give much greater depth than anything this video shows- FACT.
Not waterbourne varnish. ..Clear coats sprayed at about 40 PSI with a Sata 2000 in an automotive spray booth. Light years ahead of this stuff.
Water based polys are not as tough, go one clear without really adding any depth or definition, and they will raise the grain of the wood. I use it on some furniture I refinish, but I use a washcoat of dewaxed shellac to pop the grain first.
that explains the reaction I had ... :)
I could not locate this product anywhere. It appears the company was bought out and the same varnish is now polyurethane based. My guess is that the EPA killed off the original varnish.
I'd love to know if PURE tung oil might be a viable alternative to linseed oil. I'm a huge fan of all these instructional videos - the stock finishing dvd with the miles Gilbert kit was even more informative than the RUclips videos are!
Tung oil takes even longer to cure as it does not have the metallic dryers of BLO.
Any type of boiled linseed oil will work? Or is there a specific brand? Here it looks like it’s a generic from ACE hardware.
nice work
Linseed oil NEVER dries. Heat it up 20 years after finishing the stock, and it will come oozing back out.
I take it its not the same as work top oil ?
I am surprised you don't use a UV cabinet to dry that is what violin makers use.
6 coats True Oil works well
nicestock finish
Maybe you should put a little lacquer in that varnish....i tell you what
Liquidubricant is my new band name.
Last Sentence..."An additional coat or two..." Additional coat or two of what?
linseed oil i think
Dang. There's alot of gork goes onto that stock.
1:03 Shaved
5:36 Fully bearded
Jesus Christ for how long you´ve been making this stock?
I like using water as lube...... Wait are we talking about rifles stocks?
Srs. MidwayUsa, saludos, deseo hacerles una consulta y es lo siguiente, tengo un rifle remington modelo 51o monotiro, he visto en internet que el modelo 511 viene con magazin de 6 cargas, la pregunta es al modelo mio 510 le puedo adaptar magazin de 12 cargas? me pueden ayudar con algun plano o video sobre esto?
LP - 2016
Just spray some clear lacquer on it. Sorted.
Then it would be a quick factory stock. He's making something better than factory.
Nice but i dont have the patience to do a stock for a whole month
I wish it could look like the varnish is wet...damn that looked sexy with the wet grain
How do you protect the wood of guns and what oils are used to dye wood?