Your voice has a certain similarity to Bill Burr, and when you say shiny it instantly reminded me of one of his specials :) Tru Oil and 4OT stainless pads have worked well for me a few times. Fantastic build you have there brother.
Great outcome with the Tru Oil for a natural finish. I sometimes add a drop or two of Feast Watson Golden Teak Tint or similar to get a deeper finish and it looks great also. Most people that I have watched wipe the oil on then wipe it off straight away - rather than let it dry and then buff off with 0000 steel wool. Either way seems to work, and the process is really hard to stuff up. Cheers, it is a great video.
Very very nice job ! Having finished a number or products w Tru-Oil I can vouch that after you kill the gloss , you can add luster with Conservators Wax (or any other wax product).😀
That’s a nice looking guitar. Nice to not see Fender and Gibson copies! I use Watco Danish oil for oil finishing. It’s the same idea as Tru-Oil, being an oil/varnish blend, but you get three times more for the same price.
I like the deeper color of the wood before you steel wooled it. But I love the matte/satin finish much more than the gloss. Now if you could find a way to get the color with the matte, that would be cool. In either case they both look good.
I have some questions. When you made the neck, what was the thickness of the stock before you started working on it? For the headstock, how much did you take off? What is that body style? For your next build some measurements of some of the neck and body’s.
I would be interested to know if there is any tone change or playing advantage with the reversed headstock. I heard Dwight Yoakam comment on his signature Epiphone 335 that the longer E string sounded better as it had to be stretched tighter to tune to E. Any comments regarding this would be helpful. Cheers...
I think perhaps the finish is finer with the 0000 steel wool, but could be wrong. I have also put a rectangular scouring pad on the bottom of an orbitol sander and it seems to work well also. Just sit the pad on the timber and sit the sander on top of it.
@lesblack413 yeah we just called it scotch Brite in auto body but I have a set that goes from 240 grit to 2000 grit. Thinking using that would eliminate the fear of the steel wool damaging the pickups. Plus can fold it over to avoid the pressure created by fingers.
That turned out so cool. The black hardware with the natural finish is a winner.
Thanks Dave, This was exactly the look I was hoping for.
A final rubdown with one of those magic eraser pads gives a great satin feel to truoil.
Oh cool. I haven't heard of that. I'll have to give it a try.
Very nicely done!
Thank you very much!
Your voice has a certain similarity to Bill Burr, and when you say shiny it instantly reminded me of one of his specials :) Tru Oil and 4OT stainless pads have worked well for me a few times. Fantastic build you have there brother.
The back of the guitar really popped when you applied the oil to it. Looks great both front and back Jeff.
Great outcome with the Tru Oil for a natural finish. I sometimes add a drop or two of Feast Watson Golden Teak Tint or similar to get a deeper finish and it looks great also. Most people that I have watched wipe the oil on then wipe it off straight away - rather than let it dry and then buff off with 0000 steel wool. Either way seems to work, and the process is really hard to stuff up. Cheers, it is a great video.
The black hardware with that finish was a good idea. Looks great!
Thanks! I really like the way it turned out.
Very nice job on the guitar. Hope you enjoyed the show.
Sweet build Jeff, best of luck at the show!
Thank you. I'm excited for the show.
That's elegant. Love it!
Very very nice job ! Having finished a number or products w Tru-Oil I can vouch that after you kill the gloss , you can add luster with Conservators Wax (or any other wax product).😀
Turned out great! I like the matte finish a lot.
That’s a nice looking guitar. Nice to not see Fender and Gibson copies!
I use Watco Danish oil for oil finishing. It’s the same idea as Tru-Oil, being an oil/varnish blend, but you get three times more for the same price.
I like the deeper color of the wood before you steel wooled it. But I love the matte/satin finish much more than the gloss. Now if you could find a way to get the color with the matte, that would be cool. In either case they both look good.
Great job!
Ever think about tackling semi-hollow arch top? Something like an ES-339?
I've been thinking about trying one of those.
I have some questions. When you made the neck, what was the thickness of the stock before you started working on it? For the headstock, how much did you take off? What is that body style? For your next build some measurements of some of the neck and body’s.
I would be interested to know if there is any tone change or playing advantage with the reversed headstock. I heard Dwight Yoakam comment on his signature Epiphone 335 that the longer E string sounded better as it had to be stretched tighter to tune to E. Any comments regarding this would be helpful. Cheers...
What Birdge did you use on the guitar?
Curious but why do people choose steel wool over scouring pads?
I think perhaps the finish is finer with the 0000 steel wool, but could be wrong. I have also put a rectangular scouring pad on the bottom of an orbitol sander and it seems to work well also. Just sit the pad on the timber and sit the sander on top of it.
@lesblack413 yeah we just called it scotch Brite in auto body but I have a set that goes from 240 grit to 2000 grit. Thinking using that would eliminate the fear of the steel wool damaging the pickups. Plus can fold it over to avoid the pressure created by fingers.
Tru-oil does not have that much of the yellowing effect that other oils do, which is great of a non-stain application.