Make This Legendary Wood Finish Yourself - (Sam Maloof Recipe)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- In this video I show you how to make what is, in my opinion, the best natural wood finish there is for furniture and general fine woodworking. I got the recipe from an old 1983 Interview of Sam Maloof. You can check out that interview here. • Handmade in America: S...
Sam Maloof is a legendary woodworker and furniture maker. His furniture was selling for around $9,000 to $15,000 in the early 80s. Today collectors pay sums approaching $100,000 for his furniture pieces. Sam was known for designing his own furniture, including his own wood joint (known as the Maloof joint) for the rocking chair. Of particular note was the natural finish he used that didn't cover up the wood, but brought out its richness or 'sensual qualities' as he put it.
I use this finish on almost everything I produce that is meant to be a fine piece. It is made by mixing a particular amount (which I show you in the video) of Tung Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, and Beeswax. I have found that it works best when the wood is sanded to 400 grit, and in my opinion, sanding to at least 200 grit is necessary for good results. Additionally, this wood finish works best on darker woods, as Sam Maloof mostly worked with dark woods such as Walnut. It does work on lighter color woods, but I feel like it doesn't stand out as much as with the darker ones.
I encourage you to watch the interview, as Sam was never professionally trained as a woodworker, but just started doing it. I found him to be a very inspiring person.
If you have any suggestions for inspiring woodworkers, great custom wood finishes, or anything else related to making things, feel free to leave a comment so I can possibly make a video about it in the future.
*The video of the TV stand build is coming soon and a link will be placed at the end of this video when it is done.
For business inquiries:
davidmicd@gmail.com or
P.O. Box 271
Oxford, IN 47971
I would recommend using pure tung oil as that tung oil finish product has very little tung oil in it.
Very true! I was just going to say so myself.
I was wondering about that!!
In fact that especific brand, has none, at least not listed on ingredient list
Their mix looks nice though. Used it once, without wax or boiled linseed oil.
yes, i was immediately confused by which "tung oil" he meant. possibly the additives in "tung oil finish" are important for the result, but in that case the formulation isn't being clearly specified because different finish mixes are called tung oil
Sam Maloof, what a wonderful man. I met him and his wife at the Anderson ranch. In Aspen Colorado. I'm a self taught woodworker myself. We got along great. It was a honor to meet him and his wife.
I'm not an expert on Sam Mallof but from my research you are using just the second application.
From what I have used and read.. Quote from Sam Maloof:
1st appl: 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 semigloss polyurethane
Apply generously , rub off completely and let sit overnight
Add another coat and repeat 4xs
2nd appl: 1/2 boiled linseed oil, 1/2 tung oil and shredded beeswax
2 coats and finished.
It's all hear say on the internet but I just wanted to add my experience.
From watching some interviews, he changed his method once or twice over the years, but it stayed relatively similar. Also, it depended on what he was finishing. Based on my research, he used the polyurethane step primarily with tables, which definitely could have been used in this case. I might have to do a follow-up video later on.
1/3 poliurethane do you mean 1K poliurethane varnish?
@@lukaszsiadaczka With 1/3 they are referring to how much to mix of oil poly. Mix equal parts of oil poly, boiled linseed oil, and tung oil. They are all mixed together equally (measuring only by eyeball, not measuring absolutely exact) in a 1/3 part.
You’ll see A Lot of different recipes that call for mixing stuff together 1/3. I’ve seen recipes calling for tung oil, mineral spirits, and oil poly all mixed evenly together.
Lots of different mixes with linseed oil.
This guy in this video mixes oil poly, turpentine, and Liberon finishing oil together 1/3 each for first few coats, then replaced the oil poly for wax in final coats. ruclips.net/video/rwXp1ckA0xg/видео.html
Thanks for a good video with clear instructions. Two notes: 1. The commercially available Maloof Finish comes in two versions: Poly Oil and Poly Oil with Wax, the latter is recommended as a topcoat, but not for horizontal services where hot items may be placed as doing so may leave a ring. 2. In addition to recommending sanding to 400, Maloof was an advocate of burnishing with oooo steel wool before applying finish.
NEVER heat liquid in a closed vessel! The liquid will expand and can shatter the glass. (I'm a chemist)
I'm a chemist too. The glass shatters because of thermal shock from applying the heat too quickly or from the pressure from the liquid being allowed to boil. Merely slowly and gently heating the liquid in a closed vessel rarely causes problems.
You need a physicist, not chemists 😁
Chemist #1 is right. The lid should be left loose. If the container is nearly full, as the oils ( particularly in this case the thinners in the tung oil finish) heat and turn to vapour, they 'crowd' the airspace in the top of the jar. This can lead to a very rapid rise in pressure and if the lis seal is particularly good it can lead to an actual explosion . If the seal isn't particularly good the pressure will only rise a small amount but when the lid seal goes it can splatter very hot oil around ( far hotter than the temperature of the water ( you know, pv=nrt).
So the upshot is, don't heat volatiles in a sealed container!
Kind of true. Jars in general are designed for negative pressure, or for a vacuum. They were designed to be filled hot for sanitation reasons, sealed and then as the it cools it creates a negative pressure develops on the lid which why they pop when you open them for the first time. They are absolutely terrible at holding positive pressure. The lids are just not designed for it. So you won't have any explosion risk from pressure build up from jam jars. The lids will leak pressure long before the risk of explosion presents itself. Other vessels that seal better.. yeah you'd want to be careful.
🤓
ruclips.net/video/4YrzJ9RZ9qY/видео.html
The recipe I believed to have been Maloof's at some point was done with two mixtures. I've been using this method for years and it's easily my favourite method. I've subbed in different oils in place of polyurethane without any distinguishing results.
Step 1- Equal parts Turps, Double Boiled Linseed, Oil based Poly. The use of Oil Poly and possibly cheap home center tung and danish oils is mainly because of the drying agents in the product. Sam knew home center tung and danish oil didn't have actual Tung oil as do I.
Step 2- is what you did in the video.
Application, as seen in some videos of his process, is to take the first step mixture and apply with super fine 0000 steel wool and really get the oils soaked into the wood. Next immediately remove as much top oil as possible with a rag and keep going until the rag or paper towel comes off clean. Let sit overnight and repeat application for 2 more days. Next, apply the wax mixture in the video. I've used high quality paste waxes and also the cheap min wax paste waxes with great results too.
Excellent comment. Sam did not ' invent this ' this mixture goes way back , and such luminaries as Tage Frid and many others used oil mixed with varnish to draw the finish deeper into the wood.
I have used this technique for decades on western red cedar and western maple which are both soft, to harden up the surface.
Thanks for posting !
Sam Maloof indeed is very inspiring. Thank you for sharing your take on it..
Hello. I'm a relatively experienced woodworker but by no means an expert. I like to make my own finish, but I'm somewhat confused by your use of the Minwax Tung oil Finish product. You call it tung oil, but most experienced woodworkers know that there's little if any pure tung oil in this product. I've used both pure and the minwax product and they are completely different. Could you clarify this. Thanks.
To clarify, filming videos requires attention in several different directions at once, and I apparently wasn't paying close enough attention and grabbed the wrong stuff off the shelf. Apparently this was an extremely offensive act, based on all the comments, but I do intend to eventually make a video about that. :P
Suggest putting the beeswax in will reduce the soaking penetration into the wood.I use a one third each of Tung oil,linseed oil and vegetable turps which is applied with 1000 wire wool, couple of applications drying between and once surface is dry then apply the beeswax. Have used on kitchen laminate wood tops with excellent results water resistance,can be re oiled waxed as necessary.
Now I have his recipe as linseed oil, varnish, paint thinner. then the beeswax in linseed oil as topcoat. only used it once but that table is over 25 years old and doesn't have a mark on it.
Basically Danish Oil
I think 40 more people need to comment on the fact that Minwax Tung Oil is not tung oil.
This one made me laugh.
That’s not even tung oil that you’re using.
I'm guessing that he's aware of that, as we all are. As it is, he's merely stating what's on the label.
The second he called that tung oil I raced to the comments 😆. I wonder if Sam Malouf used not-tung oil 🤔
I went with VG fir for my doors, base, and case. Although it looked great , I found that I was allowing 7-10 days between coats to avoid what appeared to be blistering to the top surface of the VG. After approx 6-8 months, the finish went chalky in appearance. Another coat of tung oil made it look great again , but then 6 months later I was back where I began . So, a matte finish poly has been on the fir for the last ten years = problem solved.
Good that you've posted Sam's finish. Comments below have stated what I've learned. I use higher grits and #0000 steel wool. Bees wax and or furniture paste wax as a final with recommendation to clients of a wax and buff once a year. HAVE RUN TESTS USING LINSEED OIL AND PURE TUNG OIL. Currently using oil based exterior poly as it stays liquid longer.
The tung oil does have additives for drying, sheen control etc. The cavite being that oil finish is not designed for a varnish/lacquer/etc finish
Very nice concoction but are not the current hard wax oils (Poly X etc) very similar blends with similar results?
Dude that was actually interesting.
To clarify. Your videos are all interesting. I was just surprised by how interesting the little nugget of historical info was.
I melted the beeswax first and then mixed the tung oil and boiled linseed oil together, then added them to the wax
I use Armor-seal … it’s an oil based poly I think and it’s fool proof. I’ve use tung oil alone like nakashima did and it needs way too much maintenance…
The paper wad and toss was good too.
Hi David, thanks for your excellent video. Just one question, how many coats do you apply to get a decent finish?
I usually put on two.
Looks amazing! If someone puts a cold glass down on this beautiful piece and it’s sweats does it leave a ring?
I haven't done that, so I'm not sure.
I’m sure it would. Not great fo table tops.
“Tung oil finish” is not pure tung oil. It is a hybrid oil
Thanks!
Now, is that REALLY Tung oil? I've heard that it's not the same as it used to be. Also, what kind of wood is that?
I added a small amount of Japan drier which helped.
I'll have to try that. The formula can take a while to dry.
Leave the top off whilst heating stops condensation
Nice job! Thank you.
I know ya said overnight to dry, but *actually how long does this take to dry?*
I am doing a cedar shingle project. 270 shingles needed, I cut and sanded to 6" x3 ", with a 1-1/2" radius on the end.
VERY time consuming, But with THIS finish, its going to turn out awesome!
David - just beautiful! Thanks so much for demonstrating!
For a mix like this, if I wanted to add color, what would recommend?
Mix in an oil based dye while the mixture is warm. I would experiment on scrap wood first.
I've read that boiled linseed oil should not be used on oak. Does mixing it with the tung oil then makes it suitable for use on the oak?
There was no Oak in this project, but the only reason I'm aware that one might be wary of using it on Oak is that it might take a longer time to dry properly. I attempted to find another reason online, but I mostly found word soup articles that appeared to be written by AI rather than someone who actually does any work with wood. Mixing different types of finish changes the drying profile, but one should always expect that it might take longer to dry than they want, when using an oil finish. I often allow my creations to dry for a week or more, just to be safe.
It looks like your using Miniwax tung oil finish. That is not pure tung oil. I've heard it doesn't even have any tung oil in it. I've heard it's blo, varnish and some sort of solvent and driers.
@Dean I wasn't trying to shit on anyone except maybe Mini wax.
"Watco Danish Oil and Minwax Tung Oil Finish are both basically the same thing. They are an oil/varnish mixture. They DO NOT contain any tung oil. They are basically a mix of varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. You can make your own very easily by mixing 1/3 polyurethane, 1/3 BLO, and 1/3 mineral spirits." MesquiteMan - Nov 7, 2009
"Minwax Tung Oil Finish, which is not tung oil. Tung Oil Finish is typically a mixture of oil, varnish and mineral spirits. In fact, the MSDS [Material Safety Data Sheet] for Minwax Tung Oil Finish states that it is 65 percent mineral spirits by weight. This should be clarified: Tung Oil ‘Finish’ is a very abused name for commercial finish products and should not be considered to have the same properties as an actual tung oil finish." Steve Perrigo - July 2, 2013.
Yea, the manufacturers sure like to keep it confusing.
The label has to say “pure tung oil”. The directions of the van should have longer wait time, if it has short wait time it’s a mix
There are various opinions that the “pure” tung oils are of dubious quality.
I think mini wax does have tung oil in it. You can smell it and it smells similar.
Do you realize there is maybe 10% tung oil in that jar?
Question, if you scratch the surface with your fingernail will the wax be picked up off the wood surface? Thanks
Not with the amount I put in, but I suppose that could change depending on the ratio.
i just want the one they used on school desks in the 1950-80''s 😂
it was probably toxic but that 200 year old hardwood wood held up to thousands of us nightmare kids😂 picking, scratching, scraping..not a scratch on any of it
that minwax "tung oil finish" is not pure tung oil (probably only 10% tung oil if any) so if maloofs formula calls for tung oil you are not getting it right (unless you filled that can with 100% tung oil)
Boiled linseed oil stinks forever, and many are not true "boiled" linseed oils. Many contain oxidizers/metals to help dry it. Also ditch the wax as it will prevent you from putting any other coating on it. Just use a pure Tung oil. Wait until it hardens (at least 24 hours). Apply a wash coat of dewaxed blonde shellac. This sealed the Tung finish and allows almost any other finish to be applied on top. You can use a varnish, spray finish, poly, or almost anything you want.
Help! I'm trying to remember the name for a method of applying clear coats - is it "Dutch cross" (?) It's 'Dutch' ...something. I remember copying - or trying to - Sam Maloof's stuff, back in the '90s.
I added Japan Drier when I made this finish.
You might think of Danish Oil?
If you added a third turpentine or mineral spirits you wouldnt have to warm it and you would get the same results as the solvent evaporates away on the wood
For a table top, would it make sense to use a few coats of walnut oil, buff it so the friction helps cure the resin (what I've read), then seal it with Waterlox? (few coats gloss, last coat satin)
I’ll definitely try it
What is the difference combining linseed and tung oil vs using just one?
This looks great, how long does it take to dry, and can you buff it when its dry?
Will this finishing have to be repeated every year?
You don't have to, but I do like to lightly wipe it down with some every once in a while. I don't mind doing that, because I like the more natural feel of the finish. If you want something that is longer lasting but less natural of a feel, you can mix a little varnish in.
Would you need to give it a few coats of tbe mix or is one enough
I usually put two on.
I'll try adding the beeswax and giving it a boiling water bath. Thanks for the post.
I wonder if this was force dried and buffed on bowls howd it look?
Not sure, but I might experiment with a harder shell wax if I was going to do that.
Is that actually Tung oil, or Tung oil finish, which is oil mixed with thinner?
That "tung oil" he used is tung oil finish and contains zero tung oil in it. The Tung Oil is to aid in moisture sealing but that finish, doesn't do that properly.
Is this finish food safe for bowls and utensils?
How many coats do you use?
Two.
Hey, what is the curing period ?
Can a private citizen place a GPS locator, such as an Apple Air Tag, on a government vehicle?
can wax be replaced with shellac flakes?
As my grandpa would say, there's only one way to find out.
Would this mixture be good for a redwood outdoor slab? Thx
For exterior finish I would avoid anything that has linseed oil in it. Linseed oil is natures Petri dish for black mold.
You are using a tung oil finish which is not pure tung oil and the bees wax would be the finishing coat. There are two recipes that he used..
There are. He, like all of us, evolved over time. I may eventually make another video on both of them.
What is the dry time on that finish ?
At first, I thought the woman narrator was Gillian Anderson.
It's Barbaralee Diamonstein.
You poured twice as much linseed as tung oil into the jar. Then you added about one quarter as much grated beeswax. So it's more like a two to one mix to four mix. Does it matter much?
I love the orange peel finish you got.
I didnt see any. Maybe you are looking at the figure of the wood.
Will this give me a good finish of I use clear gloss poly?
I would mix some varnish in, but you can try it and see what happens. That's the nice thing about finishes is there's so many ways to do it.
Is this good for guns
Are you just doing one coat and call it a day?
Two.
lol, 2:52 the beeswax is NOT just to get it to melt easier, get it to mix in there. It is a critical in ingredient.
First
and yet, you have nothing to say... lol!
Micro wave it lol
Lol you do know ya can buynthis pre MADE,lol😂😂😂
Where's the fun in that?
Chair's advertised $47,000 & sells for $7,000. Sorry, no timber chair is worth that amount of $$$. l ain't even watching after that.
Why don't you have a Coleman gas stove in your shop??? If you give me some b******* safety concern I am going to laugh at you.... and something else take a page out of any cooking show Rachael Ray whatever,,,they prep before they go on air, for example grade beeswax,,,does your? wife know you grab the cheese greater😮😮😮 bet you're in buku trouble for that😅😅😅😅, tools are tools doesn't matter you should probably think about getting your cheese grater portable stove.. you'll be surprised how many times you do use it especially if you bend your wood😊😊😊😊
How many coats of that do you recommend?