The Perfect Woodworking Finish. EVERY SINGLE TIME!
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2024
- After weeks of intense research I've come up with the perfect formula for finishing my woodworking projects. Brought to us by Squarespace. For 10% off your first purchase, go to: squarespace.com/makesomething
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Disclaimer: I am neither a chemist, a scientist, nor an expert in any field. Your safety is your own responsibility. Please do not take my words as fact; instead, conduct your own research. Always take all necessary precautions when handling unknown substances. This video is intended solely for entertainment purposes.
★ PART 1 FORMULA ★
75% Boiled Linseed Oil / 25% Shellac
To make a 25oz mixture use 18oz of BLO mixed with 6oz of shellac. Technically the shellac and BLO will not fully incorporate. This is a good thing! This allows the BLO to soak down into the wood while the shellac remains on the surface for a more protective finish. You will need to shake this mixture very well before each use. It is very important that used rags are properly dried because they can spontaneously combust!!
1. Shake well.
2. Rub elixir into wood with a lint free rag.
3. After 15 minutes wipe off any standing oil.
4. Set out used rags to dry before discarding.
5. Wait 24 hours and apply wax.
6. Make more stuff.
★ PART 2 WAX ★
1 part carnauba Wax / 1 part beeswax / 4 parts boiled linseed oil / 2 parts citrus solvent.
To make 12 fluid ounces of this wax you'll need to melt in a double boiler 1 oz by weight of beeswax, 1 oz by weight of carnauba wax, 4 oz by weight of boiled linseed oil and 2 oz by weight of citrus solvent.
1. Rub on with grey Scotch-Brite pad. Wait 30 minutes.
2. Rub off with white Scotch-Brite pad. Enjoy for a lifetime.
★ PRODUCTS USED (Affiliate Links) ★
Pure Swedish Boiled Linseed Oil: bit.ly/3xeGpp8
De-Waxed Super Blonde Shellac Flakes: amzn.to/3U7XWZj
Everclear 190 Proof / 95%: bit.ly/3vIU1bE
Medical Grade Ethanol: amzn.to/3PJaBim
200 Proof Ethanol 99.07%: bit.ly/3IZmPjj
Coffee Grinder: amzn.to/3IWTwht
Glass Container Used for Shellac: bit.ly/3vosUml
Bottles Used: amzn.to/3xhykQu
Jars Used: amzn.to/49gtMXZ
Beeswax: amzn.to/3xf7Vml
Carnauba Wax: amzn.to/43DX4hW
Citrus Solvent: amzn.to/3PDqzun
Countertop Burner: amzn.to/3vBxei7
Kitchen Scale: amzn.to/43Ml8PN
Paint Prep Wipes: amzn.to/4abio0I
Grey Scotch-Brite Pads: amzn.to/3vpDpWy
White Scotch-Brite Pads: amzn.to/3TCF1nF
★ VIDEOS MENTIONED ★
Thos Moser: • Inside the Thos. Moser...
Walnut Stereo Stand: • Woodworking with Compl... 
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SOLD OUT. Thank you! ❤
I'm stoked to see others using recipes so similar to my own!
My recipe is a foodsafe hodgepodge from 3-4 sources. The wood whisperer, an unnamed grand master of all things wood, CA compliance, and my decision making.
There are 3 major differences between our mixes, but they are quite small really.
I use 100% d-limonene as my orange oil solvent (alliance chemical) $68/gal delivered from amazon.
I use 99% isopropyl as my other solvent for California compliance. It dissolves shellac great. I don't even grind the flakes, I bag and smash. I might try not doing anything next. $69 for 4 gallons delivered from amazon...
Our major difference is in our oils. I use a blend of tung and raw linseed. The linseed I use is from nordicare and its clear, to offset the color of the tung. I prefer a co-polymer when I'm in control of the polymerization. If I needed a clearer finish though I could just use the linseed.
I also add microcrystalline wax into the mix. I feel it adds smoothness to the wax.
The d-limonene and tung oil come from the wood whisperer, the linseed/ copolymer stuff is from the unnamed grand Master (also used by me in seasoning cast iron for a stronger polymer and where I drew correlations from), the isopropyl was a mix of California compliance and my own testing/decision making. The whole thing kind of became my decision making based off how many products there are and my penchant for testing things.
I'm half into making my own custom made stains now, so much fun. And the best stain results I've had. I'm mixing it right into my oil mix! With a dash of isopropyl to start the color mixing (mixol pigments). I'm totally messing around, and now moving into isopropyl and water for testing dyes.
@@brandonhoffman4712 I love this! Looks like you've done your research! Thanks!
The best part of this is how we can tell how excited and proud of the finish you are. Good work and kudos.
This is one of my mixes as well (basically)
It's surprisingly close to rubio monocoat.
It's just missing the hardener/drier to cure the oil fast. Which is also what my mix is missing.
He mentioned Japan drier, but I don't think that's what's in rubio monocaots hardener. I heard somone mention it. I think it was stumpy nubs.
It becomes the same as rubio monocoat, rubio just gets there faster. And approaches epoxy coating on cost after the 2nd coat.
Video starts, recipe is immediately given away, yet I'm still here watching. I'm not a woodworker, I watch your videos for your design process. I enjoy the way you are always looking for new ways to accomplish what you are trying to do. This is another one of those. Your insights on creating and using this finish and your thought process were far more important to me than the recipe.
❤️
18 seconds in and I paused to comment. I am watching the entire video no matter what because you didn't tease everyone and only provide the recipe at the end. you rock already 😊
If you want the shellac to dissolve faster I would think about getting a stir bar and magnetic plate so that you can have it continuously stirring and not settling out
Commenting to boost algorithm cause this needs more attention
For long term stability testing coatings companies fill a small glass jar with the coating and place it in an oven at 40°C. They then check the jars weekly and evaluate the state simply by inverting the jar, no need to open the lid, if the formula is unstable you will see gelling in the jar or a thickening of the formula. A good formulation should last many months. This evaluation will also give you an idea of the compatibility of the components together, there maybe separation which is acceptable if the components go back into solution simply by shaking the jar.
So they keep the oven going for weeks?
@@brandonhoffman4712 these ovens are laboratory hot boxes and not like a domestic oven, they will run for years. I was a laboratory technician developing industrial coatings and we never switched the stability ovens off, not even over the Christmas break.
@@colinbates9563 I was trying to wrap my head around costs associated with performing such a test.
It's quickly scaling out of reach! Once the word laboratory gets brought up, it's all over for me.
Thanks for sharing. This is great information. (Now I have an excuse to buy a laboratory hot box.)
You briefly mentioned that rags soaked on finish CAN self-combust. Lemme tell you a story...
Very early in my woodworking life, I had been contracted to make simple wooden totes. The buyer specified raw linseed oil as a coating. Contract for 200. So, I went to work. I personally prefer small batch runs...dunno why. After assembling the totes, I brushed on a heavy layer of oil, let it sit as long as it took me to do all 200, then wiped off the excess with paper towels. Took the nasty paper out back to the burn pile, slept...then went to work the following day (yeah...I had a day job). The phone rings, coworker hands it to me. It was my brother..."Shop just burnt down" Well, it didn't, but he had my attention. He had tried to extinguish the fire with a water hose and when all that did was spread the fire he called the pros. They came and used some type of smothering foam. Bro tried to blame it on my nasty habit of smoking, but the fire captain, noting several empty cans of raw linseed oil about told him about the self-combusting properties of the oil. That spot? Nothing grew there for years...no grass, no weeds, just a bare spot of dirt.
So, the moral of the story is handle oily rags with extreme care. Take them outdoors away from any building or structure you care about. Lay them out in such a manner that they can dry and/or cure on their own. Do NOT stack or pile them...lay them out in single layers. When dry, you can dispose of them in whatever your normal disposal manner is.
I still use linseed oils, waxes, and other flammable finishes, but have constructed a 'drying' rack from scrap boards and dowels to hang nasty rags on for curing...out of direct sunlight.
Be safe!
Wow, what a lesson. Thank you for sharing.
If you watch Bourbon Moth Woodworking at all, he had an eye opening video about oily rags. It was wild. The video is called "I Tried to Burn Down My Shop This Video Will Save Yours". We did weekly safety meetings in carpentry school and when it was my turn, I showed his video and everyone was jaw opened in shock watching it. Now I don't mess around with oily rags.
@@ICanCreateThat I do watch Bourbon Moth, but somehow missed that video. I will go find it and watch it now. Thanks for the heads-up. Fire scares the daylights outta me.
@@ICanCreateThat He may have 'helped' his data collection along with some off camera intervention. AvE made several videos debunking his process. I'm not saying oily rags can't self-combust, they certainly can, but I think Jason may have been dramatizing things to get clicks and sell products with his Amazon affiliate links. That video likely made him quite a bit of money and would not have if it weren't for the dramatic results achieved.
Sounds like your linseed oil was radioactive :)
Saying this in the "happiest" tone possible....Thanks so much for sharing your hard work and research. Take care and stay healthy and safe.
Coffee grinder --> Brushed motor --> sparks --> ethanol-fumes >> HIGH PUCKER-FACTOR
This is an excellent example of the dedication to all aspects of the craft.
Yes it is.
This man is approaching his own rubio monocoat type mix.
I stumbled into this process myself 3 months ago. His process is very similar to my own. Ours both even smell like oranges and are food safe.
This finish will last on a cutting board for 3 months while receiving daily scrubdowns with detergent based cleaners. Far more than can be asked of your average mineral oil based cutting board oil or wax.
The only bummer is the wax forms it's own skin. But it stands testament to its protection.
Great Video! I make all my finishes out of shellac, linsed oil, walnut oil, bees- and carnubawax. I love the smell and that its free of chemicals.
For bright mit woods like Maple, I recommend walnut oil, it although hardens good, smells even better and dose not yellow the Wood that much.
Thanks you for all the great Videos!
Sorry for my spelling, greetings from Germany.
I'm old, so I remember Homer Formby hawking his formula on TV. He is now a multi-millionaire. The young people need you now, go for it. Nice finish, and I would buy it. I don't need all the chem to make it myself, so yes, I would buy it from you.
Just a heads up for anyone making a finish like this, make sure your containers are fairly air tight. I’ve run into issues with the citrus solvent in wax evaporating off over a month or so and leaving it unusable.
To be fair, it’s not unusable, you just have to remelt the wax in the double boiler and add some more solvent.
I have been experimenting with natural varnishes because we have enough plastic in this world, so I have found this video quite interesting. Many thanks.
I subscribed @:013 simply because you gave away the ending. What a novel idea! So many RUclips videos want to pack their videos with endless teasers and useless filler when the entire video could be compressed down to 1/8th the time it took them to "give away the ending." Thanks. I look forward to more videos where you give away the ending. That's the kind of no-nonsense videos I like to watch. I hope others like it too.
As info: for 30 years until she died in 1980, my aunt, who was an antique dealer, used a finish similar to this on all the antiques she refinished. She preferred white oak furniture but also sold cherry, walnut, and other types. She stained with homemade stain and finished with shellac. She then waxed her finishes before selling. Everyone loved the beautiful finishes she put on her stuff.
Thanks for the formulas.
Great video! Love the enthusiasm you have in all your videos. You are killing it my man!!
I have worked with applying either a shellac layer and then after a linseed layer (or vice versa) soon after to get a certain combination of the two.
Nicely done. Thanks for going through the process and being comfortable in sharing it.
Ya, I'm with you on the finish, and especially on the denatured alcohol. Methanol is easily absorbed through the skin, as well as breathing in the funes. Then our body metabolizes into formaldehyde, which is very hard to excrete!
Many years ago, when i worked on the medical school, i had to visit the lady who had the license to "dispense" the ethanol for lab use. It was a pain.
I remember taking home a small bottle of 100 ml for my own projects. Some 38 years later, i still have a little left, though more has evaporated than I've used!
I really like the idea of making the shellac like you're doing. If my dad was still alive, I'm sure he would too.
BTW, when you dissolve the flakes in ethanol, the exact mixture doesn't matter. That's just to get a good saturated solution. When you use it, the way it dries is that almost all the alcohol evaporates.
Same with the waxes & oils.
Good job, i love the final finish.
That is a beautiful finish, David -- thanks for all the work you put into formulating it (and the video)
Love the amount of research you put into this one, your excitement shows. Thanks for sharing.
I have been following the development of this on the podcast so very cool to see the details.
Well done, very professional
Not only your research but the presentation
Thank you
I love the branding of the bottles!
Outstanding work! I will be trying this in my workshop. Thanks for the research and brands you used.
This has been one of the most highly anticipated videos I have been waiting for!
This was great! Thanks man! I’ve been always searching for something like this. 😊
As a fellow experimenter, I very much enjoyed your video. I usually make very small batches of product for wood turnings. I have also added diatomaceous earth, dental pumice, and rotten stone to make all natural friction polishes with beeswax and natural oils. Another company to look at for all natural, chemical free oils is "Tried and True." They make three all natural oil/wax/resin products. Great video, thanks.
Adding those different ingredients to make friction polishes is really interesting. What were your results?
good results with soft to the feel finish@@linsen8890
LOVE everything about the packaging of the two products!
Amazing, great, thanks for the video!
This is great! Thanks for sharing
Really cool finish bud! Look forward to the future of it and its cool you share the ingredients to learn what its made from.
Love the spoiler at the start - stayed to share the journey. Thanks for your hard work and time!
Well finally, someone admits to make a high grade finish is expensive!! We have been preaching this for 5 years, since we came out with our 2 pastes 5 years ago, everyone saw how successful we became, only other seller of pastes back then was York Grit, now somones grandmother is making it in her kitchen, slapped it in a chinese tin and put it up for retail stating the whole time it is cheap to make this stuff, and we can sell it cheaply!. So, thank you, for clearing that up, we have many videos on our pastes, food saftey in whatever we do. We pay dearly to make our pastes from the very best ingredients you can buy. Thanks again for a high quality video.!!
Mad scientist in a woodworking world! Love your videos!!
I can’t wait to try this out!
I really enjoyed this video! All your videos are entertaining and educational at the same time. Thank you for doing all the research and then sharing the formula!
Very good video, and awesome finish. Thanks for sharing
These are my kind of finishes! I find the best linseed or tung oils are pure polymerized ones. BLO usually has some of the heavy metal dryers that japan dryer has, that's a big part of why it dries faster. But the polymerized stuff has been cooked in a vacuum chamber, so it reaches the temp where it starts curing. I think the Swedish stuff you got in there is like this. It dries a notch slower than BLO. And polymerized tung oil is dry to touch in 2-3 days, with cure time of about a month. Btw, the shellac and oil mix makes great friction polish for turning! I cut it about half and half for that.
Been looking forward to this since you started talking about it on the podcast. Amazing results here. My wife is very sensitive to solvents in finish, I might have to try this out. Thanks for sharing!
I’ve been waiting for you to drop this video after hearing you talk about the process on the pod. Thanks Dave!
That's a value video, right there.
Thanks for sharing.
Been looking forward to this video! Gonna try and make some myself.
Also I really like the branding you made for the bottles.
this video is number one, so good, thank you
Really enjoyed the video, looks like a great projects
This is so cool. Keep making for you!
Great video, thank you for sharing your recipe and process.
Really good. Well done.
Very cool! I'm going to try making some in my shop!
So very cool love to see your enthusiasm and making this new product. I can’t wait to see how it comes out and hopefully it will come to market so we can all enjoy it.. best of luck to you love the look of it and the fact that it’s all natural 👏👏👏
This video is the best, most clear, and easy to follow, how-to on wood finish I have ever found. Thank you.
I am definitely trying your finish.
Great job. I think this is you best video yet
I have been waiting on this video since you first brought it up on the podcast. I was talking to someone about this all natural finish on the way home today. Then I get home and it’s been released. I’m hyped to make a batch and try it out. I also think it’s awesome to basically make this an open source project. Much respect.
This is some awesome content, thank you for sharing it.
As always thoroughly enjoy watching the informative video. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Great job!
Great video for many reasons, one is the wealth of information you unselfishly shared, thank you, i learned a lot of useful chemistry!
Amazing wood finish, very clever packaging and branding. I think Bob's right... you've really got something here.
I appreciate this... have played around with natural finishes, this honors the wood more than off the shelf stuff if that makes sense, and makes working with it more enjoyable. And when you stare at the finished product, it means more
very intense video, thank you for such a informative video
Dude, you are too cool! LOVE YOUR ATTITUDE AND I LOVE THIS CHANNEL!!!
I have been using shellac flakes and love how the finish dries so quickly. Two days and your done and no smell in the shop. What I have been looking into is what you can add to the shellac to make it into a satin finish. One was silica, and another was a product that could be purchased from a finishing company where it seemed that every ingredient had a msds sheet attached. This looks like a finish I have been looking for... safe and non toxic. I thank you for posting this video.
Not to take away from your awesome video, but it reminded of when i had a small woodworking shop, and how i used up timber offcuts and laminated them into chopping boards, as the timber will have all sorts of food prepared on them i used to seal them with beeswax and olive oil, basically heat the beeswax until it had softened and then add the oil whilst stirring, the ratio i used to 'eyeball' every time but my goal was to make a stable polish (nb: it didn't go rancid as the beeswax wax was the main component) ... it was pretty good at sealing the timber
great job bro!! I use something really super similar and i feel like its such a great look just like yours is! bravo!
I really enjoyed this one. The only thing I'd like to add is that just because something is all natural, doesn't automatically make it safe. There's plenty of all natural things out there that can get you super sick or kill you.
The finish you created came out fantastic.
Yep. Rattlesnake venom is 100% natural but I don't think I want it coursing through my blood vessels ! LOL
These ingredients are all edible and common in everyday foods.
That is indeed a beautiful finish. You cannot beat the combination of oil and wax to bring out the real beauty of the grain....and I like the idea of it smelling like oranges.
I did my own. It is indeed great. Thank you so much for sharing!
This content is exceedingly well done.
This is awesome. I’m totally inspired. I hate the chemical smell of finishes.I use a Presto Pot to make candles. I added a ball valve and spout to easily decant. I will be experimenting with making my own finishes. Thanks for the formulations and the continued inspiration.
Hello, just came across your video on my time line and boy am I glad for it!
I love to prepare my own stains and finishes but always struggled with all natural recipes. Yours is the perfect combination of simplicity and quality. No doubt I'll try it.
Last but not least: thanks for putting this freely on RUclips instead of making it a patreon-only content. I'm a firm believer in spreading knowledge.
That is exactly the same rabbit hole I fell into a few months ago! It feels so good to see this tried and proven by someone with way more experience than me, thank you!
Thank you for this!! I’ve been spinning my wheels with finishes, trying every type I could find and never feeling totally satisfied with the outcome. This finish is amazing.
And the names! Love it
Great looking finish there. Shellac is my favorite finish for anything inside except tabletops that will see a lot of wear, as you said. This combo looks like worth trying. Thanks for the formula. Just an FYI, Platina Shellac flakes are a little bit even more colorless than Super Blonde, if you're interested.
Great video David! And looking super fit these days!
🥰
That was a beautiful finish!
Thanks for the video!! I have gone down the rabbit hole of homemade wood finishes that are 100% nontoxic and natural. It’s not easy work. Thanks for experimenting and I hope to try your version one day!
Very cool my friend, looks like the perfect sheen. I gotta try it. 😁
In the 70s and early 80s I used oil finishes on a variety of different types wood furniture and I created my own blends of waxes. Yes Japan dryer works but does stink always good to experiment
after I heard on the podcast you had been having such a great time designing the label, I was looking forward to seeing it. Love it. Might be applicable on other merch as well(and such a clever name). And this video certainly showed the "...stay passionate..." The amount of energy involved in this came across very clearly.
I made a small batch for some wood bowls I made. Very happy with the results. Went on thin and cured nicely. Thank you.
For all the reasons you mentioned, this is why we only use ACKS PASTES, because we trust him and know he only uses the best ingredients available.
Great video. Personally I've mostly used either danish oil or another finish which is similar using boiled linseed oil, metherlated sprits and polyurethane with a top coat of briwax which has worked well for what I do. Shellac is also a good option for something that drys quick
Your finish looks great! I've been making my own finish for cutting boards and other small projects just from mineral oil, beeswax, and a little lemon oil to make it smell nice. It works really well for me, and it's also super easy to make and safe to use on things that will be in contact with food. I've thought about experimenting with other formulas similar to what you came up with, but now you've done the hard part! I think I would try tung oil instead of linseed oil, though. Thanks a ton for this great video. Trying new things, learning, and having fun are what it's all about!
Great video & info, Dave~! Not that I don't want to wait you out, but since you offered the contents & proportions, I may open up a "kitchen" in my shop and give it a go myself. I just recently tried a beeswax/citrus oil/BLO-type of finish and loved it, so I'm on board~!! Thanks much for sharing this~!
This is great! How you processed through to your 'final' desired finish which could still be tweaked and refined. (depending on the application) The ideas and explanations are the key that unlocks a big door for us out here. Thanks for laying the ground work. I love the use of citrus oil. I have been using two different brands of citrus oil furniture polish that also have a beeswax conditioner. One is Lustre and the other is Howard. Most recently I found one called Citrushine (that is really strong) These products are being used in the home on antique furniture and any quality woodwork, but could be used in the shop. It all crosses over. 30 years ago I discovered Grumtine, a product made by Grumbacher art/painting supplies. A Turpentine type product with the orange oil. I was hooked on that ever since. Mineral spirits always stink, unless you get an unscented, so I started adding a small amount to unscented for the fragrance. Of course the orange oil helps clean the brush, so fewer headaches in more than one way.💥💯💥👍👍
I just went through a similar (though far less detailed) process. Ended up with the same linseed oil (which you can also get at Lee Valley), and polymerized tung oil from Bumblechutes. In my case, I'm also mixing with polyurethane, and am still experimenting with ratios, but something like 1:1:1 with then either 1 or 2 for mineral spirits. By the way, you can use isopropyl alcohol for shellac … you can get lab grade 95-99% online for less than the cost of denatured alcohol at the local box store.
Love this...Thanks for sharing it...Just as a point of history, you may enjoy should you read this...I've been a traditional woodworker (et al) for over 40 years. This finish type in one of its first iterations in the modern day (it is an old recipe) was called "landmark" and made by a little old man and his wife. This formula is now found and can be purchased from a friend company called "Heritage Finishes" the exact ratios, mixing temps, etc are a trade secret, but the ingredients are similar to yours with a few differences that make it a bit more durable but a breeze to apply, great effect on all woods, and will age beautifully forming the wonderful patina that antiques all get and that "plastic finishers" NEVER will be able to...
Those ingredients (should anyone wish to experiment?) are Pine Rosin, Citrus, Tung, & Flax oils, all mixed with beeswax...
It wasn't unusual back in the day to add boiled linseed oil to the last coats of shellac to toughen the resulting surface. But a very interesting approach to mix the two. Will try that out. Thanks for your experiments!
Great video! And I absolutely love the label!!! I agree with other posts, should make some merch with that label. Cheers
This vid gets into my "safe" list. I'll certainly be using this in the near future.😊
To be fair I haven't read all the comments... Everclear is meant to be use as an additive to other liquors to raise their alcohol contents which is why you have to sign something saying you wont drink it out of the bottle. Great video as usual!
What a great idea, philosophy and recipe! I am predicting a very well received product. Critical to me is proper curing/drying time. Hardening time and ingredients another entire subject. Well done and stay safe, from an old retired shop teacher.
You already use the very best out there!
Absolutely love this! In regards to production down the road, I think selling this as a make it yourself kit would be awesome. To me at least, Its all about the process and fine tuning to fit my needs. I know some people just want the easy buy and apply method but where's the fun in that lol!
This looks super sweet
I am a turner and make almost the same wax formula except I use filtered walnut oil in place of linseed oil. Shellac as the resin for finish mixes is also my goto
That’s totally awesome. I had a very similar route to creating a shellac, tung oil finish. I used it on turned bowls and pepper grinders. I really like the durability of the tung oil finish over just using pure tung oil and waiting a long time for the curing. I used pure gum turpentine for non food products, and isopropyl alcohol for the food safe version (food safe enough for me anyway). The great part is these finishes are so easy to top up / fix, maintain a finish on wood. This is such a great video, I now feel that I’m not the only one nuts enough to do this. . I also use shellac to seal MDF, it’s so fast… The closest commercial product I can see is Parrs Danish oil in UK
I've been using a variation of Tage Frid's 4F finish. Its equal parts BLO, Alcohol, and 3lb cut of shellac. I've been happy with the results, but I'm going to give yours a shot to see how it compares.
It looks like it has a pretty decent shelf life (I'm using hardware store grade materials for mine so that may change things). It just needs to be shaken before use and it is good to go.
Kudos for keeping it natural! I like Walrus Oil products for this reason, but if the DIY bug hits me in this area I will give your formulas a try.