Luthier Quick Tip 3: How to Decide On A Guitar Finish
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2020
- This week's tip concerns what you need to consider when selecting a finish for your guitar project. I'll explain Solarez, Crystalac Brite Tone, boiled linseed oil, danish oil, and Z-Poxy Finishing Resin and what drives my decision to use a specific product.
Product Affiliate Links:
Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer: amzn.to/2Xi60sv
Solarez Polyester: amzn.to/2DuPwGi
Crystalac Brite Tone: thecrystalacstore.com/collect...
Danish Oil: amzn.to/30qJ3p3
Z-Poxy Finishing Resin: amzn.to/31bteBL 
Хобби
Opened up my own little guitar workshop a few months ago, these videos have been very informative, fun and helpful. There's so much to guitar making and customs, I love brushing up on some of the details, general knowledge and techniques. Thank you Highline.
I have been clearing guitars for over 30 years. I use all different types of clears my favorite is polyester sealer clear gives it a amazing sounds and lasted longer. Thanks for the video
About a year ago l started building a Baglama/Saz from scratch( it's a traditional instrument ) in my spare times. I have been searching right finishing products here where l live. Back at home th finishing they're using l can find it here. So, after so many videos l watched here on RUclips, your video was a JACKPOT with the info l been searching for. I just ordered it online & now waiting for it to be delivered. I can't wait to try the finishing product. I'm really appreciated and thanking you. Keep up the good work.
Always learn from your videos. On my cigar box guitar necks I only use the Watco Danish Oil natural finish. Down the road, you can always remedy any dings, scratches, or wear with a quick Danish Oil wipe-down.
Timely vid, thanks! I just completed a refinish on an old Peavey Raptor using Duplicolor acrylic lacquer, and I'm not thrilled with the clear. It's level and glossy, but still fairly soft after several weeks. I worked really hard to apply it correctly, so I'm writing it off as unusable under my conditions and moving on to something else. My son's SG-style kit is in process, and I definitely want a better topcoat when it reaches that stage. I'm pretty much narrowed down to either Crystalac or a 2K urethane product. I've used a rattle-can variant with some success (learned a few things for sure), and now I think I might be able to do a nice spray finish with my HVLP. I've got to think that either would certainly would be more durable than this acrylic lacquer, with the additional bonus of getting to level and polish much sooner.
Thanks for the great info. I definitely struggle the most with finishing. I might give the CrystaLac a try fro my next build. I've used wipe-on poly a couple of times. It works pretty well but scratches fairly easily.
As always....a nice and informative vid.
It nice to see you take the time to explain things in a relaxed way and with good building-up of information.
Thanx and keep it going.
Ronald
Thank you sir for the heads up about finish choices for an axe that I am building!
Excellent channel. Thank you so much for your great information.
My favorite finish is amber Shellac from a spray can. Bullseye! After 2 years of playing a blues style guitar looks like it been played for 30 years. Rapid relic- ing without out phoney damage. Real play wear.
Awesome video!!!! Thank you Chris!
Fantastic and informative video! You answered questions I didn’t know I had! Thank you!
Thank you for the information. WOuld have enjoyed examples.
Hey man, your tutorials are like super good and i havent got the whole picture of setting up a guitar yet. Could you maybe make a video on perfectly setting up your guitar?
Thanks for this! A great review.
I have started using “I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer” and made a ukulele sized tanning booth for curing. Very happy with it and the results! My ukulele shop is in the basement beneath my home so the more potent vapors of the harder Solarez product takes it off the table.
Does yours still feel slightly tacky when cured? I've been working on a body for much too long trying to get ICBINL to act like a finish coat but it just doesn't dry hard enough. Not after curing for 25 minutes with a less-than-hair-thin coat.
feanor70115 I have applied many coats of ICBINL with a moist make-up sponge. Then the object is cured in the booth with LED UV bulbs (385nm) then sanded between.the coats. I judge the cure complete by the white powder sanding produces.
I have not tried buffing to a gloss. After sanding with 2000 grit I have applied wax and am happy with the satin finish that hand buffing the wax produces.
Before sanding the cured glossy surface it does feel almost wet. But the sanding shows it is not. If I went to wax without sanding the wet might go away, but there are enough bumps I generally need to sand.
@@short6691 Thanks for the info. At this point I've pretty much decided to just wait for some Crystallac for a finish coat. I've got a decent semi-gloss but it's too thin to buff (I've tried and it just dulls the finish and burns through it) and I just need a way to put a harder finish on it without a booth or a buffing machine.
feanor70115 Sounds like you have a good path forward.
Best wishes!
All area is freaking amazing!
i really like an oil finish, especially on the neck. on the body, for a smooth shine i apply a wipe on poly
great stuff thank you
Great info. Thanks.
Very informative!
Looking forward to my first build with Crystalac. Planning to use a Preval system to apply it.
Awesome! Let us know if we can be any help.
The CrystaLac Company Brite Tone is my fav clear coat. No doubt. Along w your mighty fine Crab coat for my front door lol.
This was super useful, thanks!
You're welcome!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
FYI, if there is a Walmart near you, they carry Tru Oil. Also, if you leave the foil on the opening, use two small holes to dispense the product, then store upside down I have extended the shelf life well over a year. One other snippet, when applying the last coat or two a few drops of mineral spirits will thin the product down and produce a surprisingly deep shine.
And if you just don't like Tru Oil, well, never mind! Thanks again for sharing.
The Walmarts in my area don't sell it. No one in my neck of the woods sells it. I have to order it and since I can get the same effect faster and cheaper with Z-Poxy, which is available locally at several hobby stores, that's what I will continue to use.
Another awesome video! I'm going to now go buy a house with a big workshop, invest in $25,000 in woodworking tools, and build a dozen guitars so I can try out all the finishing products you just mentioned! I'm honestly "that" intrigued to experiment with these finishes now - a tribute to your always-interesting videos! Keep 'em coming!! Tx! 😎👍
That is awesome!
Really good video! Answered my questions and got to the point. Thanks! What's the best chemical strip for getting the factory finish off of a cheap Epiphone PR-150?
Thanks for sharing this precious know how!!! Do you think I could use a nitro finish on a sitka acoustic top that is sunburst stained with SM color tone without making a mess?? Thanks again....
Thank you!
Hey @highlineguitars I just found your channel!
I'm a DIY'er who's looking to sjarpen luthier skills.
Current project is an '84 MIJ BC Rich guitar that was in rough shape and had been spray painted over the original finish.
I've sanded back to the original creme finish but will be keeping some of the relicing and putting a transparent window sticker over a more unsightly area to add style and make it look more metal.
I want a gloss finish that will protect the reliced area but not make the outline of the sticker obvious. Ideally, I'd also like the neck to feel smooth and not sticky.
Any help/recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Tkx again from Canada.
Since my cherry first Tacoma has peeled all around the sides and I haven't found anyone to take it on, I'm considering trying to do it myself. I have refinished some furniture, not much but ...this is a really scary project!
Subscribed. I have a maple neck and fretboard ordered with matte finish. I'd like to add some stripes with a propane torch. Do I need to remove the matte finish first? Thx!
thank you
I’ve got a roasted swamp ash strat body. I love the roasted color and existing wood grain. What would you recommend for a protective finish?
I wonder if anyone has any tips on how to do this. I want to paint a precision bass body with a nitrocellulose sand color. The pickguard will be orange and I want what's underneath the nitrous cellulose to crack revealing an orange substrate below the nitrocellulose. I was thinking of mixing some alcohol dye with a grain filler first and then maybe sponging on some type of acrylic orange color over that. Don't know if I need to put a white vinyl sealer over that or go directly to nitrous cellulose, because again I'm looking for the orange to show through the distressed cracks through the nitrocellulose
I'm thinking of stripping the top polyurethane coat on my classical Cordoba c4 ce and using an oil based finish on it. Is it a bad idea to just do the top and leave the back and sides poly? I have a hunch that it may cause cracking, especially in a humid environment.
Really helpful video, Chris, thanks. I use Nitro because I relic my guitars, but I'm curious to try the Crystalac especially for non relic jobs. I take it you can paint it over acrylics and the like?
Yes.
Hey chris I like doin bursts, can I use bright tone sealer they spray a solar lux ngr then overcoat with brite tone clear??
Brite tone is good stuff. I just started using it, thanks to you, and love it. Amazing results! Thank you
You didn’t mention the strength level of Z poxy. How durable is it?
It's basically an epoxy so it slots in between nitrocellulose and polyester.
Hello, Can one use e-poxy over watco to get the gloss with the richness of the watco color?
I build high acoustics and electrics. Nitrocellulose lacquer is great for tone if build it thin about .004" thick plus it looks great. Downside it is time consuming.
For me, the downside to nitrocellulose is the toxic and flammable fumes.
I’m looking to apply a real leaf to the top of my poly-finished turquoise Les Paul. Any quick ides? Several coats of brush-on poly? Love your videos! ✌️❤️
I would laminate the leaf to the body with slow setting epoxy. As it dries, lay a piece of wax paper over the leaf along with some HEAVY books to make it as flat as possible. Let it sit overnight and follow up with multiple coats of polyurethane. Good luck!
Thanks for all the tips over the years. I think you’re the most helpful luthier channel on there.
Have you ever tried Royal-Lac for a shellac like natural finish with polyester strength? I’m wondering how you feel about that stuff. Was planning on using that for my first build shortly to get a garnet shellac look that’s more durable than a French polish.
Thanks again for all the videos!
Royal-Lac is too toxic and too flammable for me to consider. The SDS is 14 pages!
Highline Guitars wow, that’s good to know. Glad I asked. Sound like it’ll be Solarez’s I can’t believe it’s not lacquer for me then. Thanks again for the help!
This is helpful. Do you still use Crystalac? If not, what type of gloss top coat are you using now?
Just got an ES style kit. Whilst waiting for delivery I have watched umpteen videos (mostly yours) and think Crystalac is what I will be using. I have questions but 2 are on my mind. 1. Is it OK to use an orbital sander on a guitar which does not have a flat front? 2. How do I deal with the bindings? Should I use narrow vinyl masking tape?
1. Yes, if you are careful and/or use a variable speed ROS set to the lower speeds. 2. I spray my clear right over the binding. If it's tinted, I spray over the binding, let it dry and scrape the color off the binding with a razor blade.
Thanks for a wonderfully informative video. Can Solarex I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer be applied over a sanded smooth Tru Oil finish? Appreciate the help.
I don't know since I don't use Tru Oil. All I can say is you should test on scrap first.
@highline guitars , great video , sir. I have a question. I want to strip my Gretsch and my P-Bass down to just the bare wood. I don't care about "gloss" "shine" or aesthetic appeal, I just want to seal/coat the body to protect it, that's all. What product do you recommend for this? And any info about application , curing etc would be greatly appreciated! Subscribed to your channel! Thank you!
The easiest way is to use boiled linseed oil or tung oil. If you want a little more protection a wipe on polyurethane or Danish oil works great.
You know I already subscribed.. Still scared to take the leap on a certain color and start the process! LOL
Test on scrap or be satisfied with what you get.
@@HighlineGuitars That's what I'm doing today..Testing out different stains. Thanks Chris! Have a great day!
Great videos. Very informative. Wondering if you could recommend a Solarez product for clear coating over a metal flake finish which is rough to the touch. Thanks
I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer. 4-5 coats ought to do it.
Thanks for the video. So what about shellac?
invaluable information. thank you so much for explaining your rational behind these decisions. it makes my choice obvious!
would I improve the finish by spraying Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer or is that unnecessary?
Spraying would be faster, but not better. Brushing works just as well, but takes longer to apply.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks! I'll definitely forgo spraying since cleaning my guns is the real time suck.
Great video! I tried making my own oil finish with boiled linseed oil, min spirits, and polyurethane like you suggested. It looks great however, after a few coats I think I want something that's more glossy. Can I adjust the ratio of the mix to have more polyurethane to achieve this? Or should I just wait for it all to cure and then apply something like the Crystalac Brite Tone? Thanks!
You can try adjusting the ratios, but you'd be better off using a clear coat like Brite Tone.
Learned a lot from your videos. I built a guitar from a soft okoume. Thinking of Solarez Polyester for max hardness. Will it lift the black analine dye and do I need filler or sealer underneath. The body doesn't have a lot of grain. Also would soaking the body with West exopy then use the less volatile Solarez be just as good?
I have no idea. you'll have to test on scrap.
Have you ever worked with melamine lacquer? I know it's sometimes used in wood turning (lathe), but I have seen it used on a guitar in one video.
Never have. I'll check it out. Thanks!
Dig the shirt!
Thanks!! One question, wich is the best if I would like to have a light blue (aniline dye) maple top with high gloss clear coat? The most easy to work (faster to cure)?
My current favorite wasn't shown in this older video. These days, I'm loving Centurion water-based 2K polyurethane for my clear coats.
G'day, love the video. But I was just wondering do you need to coat of paint or varnish on electric guitar/bass at all? Can you get away with just bare wood and apply may be a wax finish to it once in awhile.
You need to seal the wood to prevent warping, twisting, bending, and cracking due changes in humidity. Wax isn’t sufficient to seal the wood.
I have a question. I have a Epiphone Les Paul that I just got. It has a factory (dull) satin finish on the body. I am putting on transparent decals on it. To keep the stickers permanently on the guitar and to give the guitar a kind of shiny finish on top of the stickers, what would I use on it? How long til the guitar body is fully dry and able to out the hardware back in it? Thank you.
I would bury the stickers in Crystalac Brite Tone clear coat. 10 to 15 coats each applied a few hours apart will give you enough thickness to level sand smooth and buff to a high gloss shine.
Awesome tips. I've been working on a guitar for a friend. Doing a distressed brown look, but he doesn't want any gloss. he wants a more matte or satin finish. I like the Solarez products. What would you recommend that would have the strength of the polyester but with no gloss?
Solarez products are intended for high gloss finishes. The only way to get polyester durability is to use polyester. A good alternative is 2k polyurethane. In fact, there are a lot of high tech water-based 2K polyurethanes on the market now. Centurion, Envirolac, Renner, and Milesi make them in matte to gloss sheens. Be forewarned, they require a catalyst to achieve maximum durability and they aren't cheap.
How can I get Solarez I can't believe is no lacquer? Their website is not working. Help, please.
I hate gloss finishes. I'm leaning towards the boiled linseed oil. But if I want a bit of tint, would you recommend stain first and then apply the boiled linseed oil over top, or mix some sort of transparent pigment into the linseed oil?
I use Windsor Newton artist oil paints to tint the BLO.
Hey Chris, thanks as always for this great info. Have you ever used z-poxy as a finish over nitro lacquer? I'm working on a mahogany body with a gold top (sprayed nitro over z-filled poplar). I'm wondering if, after the nitro has fully gassed off, I could just z-poxy over the whole darn thing.
No. I don’t use nitrocellulose.
@@HighlineGuitars Ah, good to know. Thx
I have question sir. My gibson flying v has a nitro finish that is like an ivory white. Is it possible to prep the nitro finish already on the guitar and use it as a base coat the spray my paint over that or should completly strip my guitar down to the wood? Also the are 2 dings in the paint job so what would I use to fill if I didn't have to strip down to bare wood?
I would strip to the bare wood only because of the adhesion problems that can happen when applying paint over old nitro. The only way to know for sure if you can use the nitro as a base coat is to test with the paint you plan to use. As for the dings, you could try to steam them out with a wet paper towel and a hot soldering iron. If they are too deep for that to work, you could fill them by applying a paste wood filler. Build up the layers of filler until it's proud of the surface and then sand it smooth.
great video chris,wondered if you could advise me, can spray cellulose over the z epoxy? many thanks in advance, paul uk
I don't know. I have never tried it and probably never will as I dislike nitrocellulose.
I wish i could talk to you about a project i have and discuss a clear for it
If I wanted to paint my guitar body with acrylic (water-based) paint, is there a finish/topcoat I could apply that would take less than the standard 30 days to cure? I don’t need a mirror or high-gloss sheen, satin is fine.
My only real stipulation is that oil-based finishes would screw the paint job up and I’d rather not have to sand the entire thing down and start again.
Centurion Water-Based 2k Polyurethane.
I have an old but good Ventura acoustic, and want to remove the original stain/sealer; and stain it a lighter color. Any advice on which stain to use; and also, will I achieve a richer intonation with a particular satin. Thanks!
The only advice I can give you is to test on scrap. If I recommend a specific stain, you may not like it.
Good show... So can you apply zpoxy to a guitar body that has been stained with artist oil paint mineral spirits and poly??
Yes. Test first!!
What is the best finish for achieving the best tone? That is my main objective. I just bought a Martin that does not have a finished top and the tone is amazing! I'd like to finish it, but want to maintain or enhance the already great tone. Thanks for your experienced insight!
Since I concentrate on electric guitars, the finish doesn't matter. However, on acoustics, the thinner, the better. A thin coat of Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer or Crytalac Brite Tone are my choices.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for the insight! One more question though if I may, since I'm okay with a satin finish, would an oil finish be the best for acoustic tone?
@@michealjoseph9943 that would be the best for resonance, just be aware that oil won’t offer ding and scratch protection.
Yeah, Watco Danish Oil is great to work with! I got a free table from someone, took off the damaged veneer and applied some Danish Oil to it. I have a novice question regarding coating guitars. I was going to clear coat the headstock of my acoustic guitar with Rust-oleum 2X Semi-Gloss Clear, but I never. It comes in a spray can. Can you use that type of product for a gloss on a guitar?
I have never used it, so I can't say for sure. I would definitely test it on scrap first. Also, be aware that whatever you're spraying over could react with the clear.
That's a good point; I never thought about the possibility of there being a reaction. I had a bottle of it, and I gave it to someone who used it on signs for a glossy look. It doesn't seem to be a product to use on a finished guitar. @@HighlineGuitars
Hi Chris, I've been binging on your videos. Super interesting. I just have a question. Is there anyway to strip away danish oil from a guitar body? I orivinally pht a thin coat of watco danish oil on a pine body. But now i want to paint over it (water based preferably, nitro ok too) is there anyway i can strip the danish oil and paint over it? I used a citrus stripper and that removed the varnish on top but not sure if that is enough. Thanks.
Just paint over it. Hit it with some shellac first and you’ll be good to go.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks! Water based will also work? I have an aerosol can here of shellac. Will try it after the wood dries out. No need for a primer after shellac? Thanks again. Appreciate everything.
@Highline Guitars I’m a hobbiest on my fourth guitar project. My current project is the first one where I am doing a clear-coat over paint. I have never level sanded or buffed a guitar. On this project I don’t need to be bullet-proof. Based on the video, I would like to try the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer. Here’s my question: On my current project, I have been doing image transfers using acrylic medium, and painting on top of that with acrylic paint. The guitar is coming out really cool, but due to the transfers and the acrylic paint, there quite a few places where the surface is not smooth. Ultimately, I would like to have a clear-coat that is thick enough to that I can get a smooth outer surface with but without sand through the clear-coat when I am level sanding. Would I need to worry about that with the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer product? Can you do multiple coats of the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer? If so do you need to level sand and buff between coats? Any help is very much appreciated…
ICBINL is 100% solids so each coat cures thick. I've done multiple coats no problem and that includes level sanding with 400 grit between coats.
Thank you! Super helpful…
Qucik question for you, hopefully you see it and can respond. Im going to use the watco danish oil on an acoustic guitar. After i apply the finish, do i need anything else ontop of it for example a clear coat, poly, or lacquer?
Only if you want an additional level of scratch and ding protection that Danish oil can't provide. Keep in mind that there are some people who think that clear coating an acoustic guitar will diminish its resonance.
I noticed you’re based out of Highlands Ranch. I live in Parker and am new to luthiery. Getting a flawless finish on anything I’ve ever built has been the bane of my existence. Do you offer any in person instruction on guitar finishing?
My shop is not open to the public and I don't offer in person instruction.
Have you used an automotive style clear coat product, with separate hardener, like Omni? Thoughts on something like that, compared to Crystalac and Solarez?
Yes, I have and they are incredibly durable. However, they are also super toxic as the hardeners contain isocyanate. In Europe, they have just started to restrict the amount of isocyanates in these hardeners. The U.S. will eventually follow. Will that spell the end for 2K Polyurethane?
Thanks Chris! Have you done a video on what you use to spray Crystalac?
ruclips.net/video/fV1ucVAOjkI/видео.html
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks Chris! :)
How many coats of zpoxy do you recommend? I have a mahogany body that is finely sanded from a stewmac kit and I’ve never done a guitar before. Plenty of experience staining pine doors and moulding in my house couple decades ago followed up with water base satin polyurethane, but that’s it. Still a novice. Still on the fence….
Every situation will be different, but no more than 3 coats should be sufficient.
Ever try waterlox? I love it for my other woodworking but never used on guitars
Yes, but it is too expensive and I can make my own variant with Tung Oil, mineral spirits and polyurethane.
When you get a toolbox/workbench that has a wood top (as offered by Craftsman, Kobalt, Husky, etc.), what is that finish on those tops?
You’ll have to ask the manufacturer.
I have a question.
I have a vintage semi hollow guitar with a nitro finish, and the finish is chipping of. I thought about air brush it with a thin coat of lacquer, but I'm worried about it damage the sound of the guitar.
Will it effect the tone?
Probably not.
Have been trying out "I can't believe it's not lacquer " on rosewood. I use as a sealer and a cover finish. My rosewood finish is not curing as expected. Do you have any pointers for using this product on rosewood?
Rosewood contains oils which can inhibit any type of finish. I believe Solarez sells a sealer specifically for oily woods, but I'm not sure and their website is currently down for maintenance. One thing you can try is to wipe the wood with acetone. As soon as it flashes off, apply the Solarez ICBINL.
Hello Sir thanks for the great videos. Can I use any of these over a UV polyester finish if I sand first?
The Solarez products might work, but you'll be better off removing the polyester first.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks
Not familiar with Z-Poxy. You say it has "a slight amber tint to it" and I have to ask, amber in an "antique" lacquer kind of way by any chance? That could be really appropriate for a very subtle relic outcome I have been trying to figure out for sometime. Note: I'm not talking about the usual, "the tour bus driver ran it over, multiple times" type relic jobs that are all the rage it seems, but rather a certain "patina" (if we can we call it that) in some older lacquered instruments that I would like to be able to solve for. I think I can handle the "crackle", but nailing that color (discolor) with a gloss finish is the prize.
If varies from bottle to bottle.
Great video. Very informative.
I have a question: is Watco Danish Oil compatible with dyes or stains? I mean, can it be applied over a stained body or top (like a hand rubbed burst)?
Watco Danish Oil is already tinted.
@@HighlineGuitars I mean the "natural" one, apparently it is clear(ish).
@@LaPiernaDeMiAbuela It should work. Test first on scrap.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks!
Sir I have a Question.. Please answer.. It will be very helpful..
I have a Cort (Af510m-op) Open Pore Guitar all mahogany body Solid wood Guitar.
What should I use to maintain and polish the guitar...? Kindly help...
You need to ask Cort Guitars. www.cortguitars.com/cortBBS/write.php?bo_table=Contactus
I have removed the original polyurethane finish off the face of my spruce top acoustic guitar. I'm wanting to give it an antique look (without the distressed marks, etc.) What sort of finishing process is ideal for that?
I would go with a natural tint Danish oil. Hand rubbed with 5-8 coats.
I could be mistaken, but I don't think you answered the question of which finish you prefer over a stained wood body. Could you shed some light on that question for me? Thanks so much.
These days, I like Centurion 1800 Water-Based 2K Polyurethane. However, a lot depends on the outcome I'm after. I also like to use Danish oil if I want to keep the look and feel of the wood grain.
Can I use teak oil on the neck or body of my guitar? Iget mixed information about this
I've used it in the past and it worked fine for me. It's great for dense hardwoods and offers UV protection as well as excellent moisture resistance. Plus it make the wood look dynamite.
Hi, do you recommend using some type of wax and grease remover to clean the bare wood before starting the finishing process? If so, what products do you recommend? Thank you sir.
Naphtha.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you sir, I really appreciate you answering all my questions!
What is the best finish for a guitar neck? A smooth satin feel for a fast neck ?
ruclips.net/video/YYeenVF_sb0/видео.html
I used solarez I can’t believe it’s not lacquer to replicate an oil finish. It has a white haze to the guitar, however when I use wax on it the haze goes away for maybe an hour and then the haze comes right back. Any suggestions on how I can fix this?
Contact Solarez. I've never seen this and have no idea why it's happening or what to do to fix it.
Have you tried using target coatings EM6000. Another Low VOC and Oder waterborne. Nitro type burn in. Just curious.
Yes, I have used it. It works well, but I felt it was a bit soft.
@@HighlineGuitars I feel the same, thanks for the response
Hey I wanted to know what kind of coat would be best to use on my bass guitar that I have signed with sharpie
Any clear coat designed for wood (nitrocellulose, polyurethane, acrylic, polyester) should work.
What do you think about clear coat used on vehicles including reducer and hardener? On mahogay body neck and maple veneer? Will i get a even glossy finish? It dries and cures 3 4 coats in 1 day
There great as long as you have a proper spray booth and hazardous materials protection.
Thankyou sir
I am looking for a clear coat gloss product that will not alter the color of TransTint Aqua Dye. I tested Varathane Polyurethane and it yellowed the blue and turned it green. Is there a clear that is truly clear? Thanks.
Crystalac Brite Tone.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you!
Could I use Crystalac matted finish on Zpoxy or have you found Zpoxy to be sufficient for the top coat? How do you use Zpoxy on maple? Would I just apply multiple coats of Zpoxy to build a finish? Does Zpoxy need sanding in between coats? Thank you.
Z Poxy works great as a top coat. However, if you want a matte sheen, you'll have to use a top coat that is formulated to dry with a matte sheen. Crystalac Brite Tone Matte would be a good choice. You can also apply Z Poxy to Maple the same way you would any other wood and yes, you'll need to scuff sand between coats to ensure proper adhesion.
@@HighlineGuitars If I apply Zpoxy to bare mahogany/maple, I would scuff it before sealer? Would I use Crystalac Sanding Sealer or just scuff the Zpoxy and apply Crystalac Matte finish?
@@pigjubby1 No need for the sealer. Just scuff the Z Poxy and spray your Brite Tone matte.
Just happened to come across this, Chris, and I was wondering if the z poxy is the same resin one would use for pore filling? I also recall you are using Melamine nowadays. How do they compare for ease of use. I find Chesnut Melamine very irritating (physically, I mean). Thanks as always
I've never heard of melamine. Maybe you're thinking of someone else?
@@HighlineGuitars Sorry, Chris. You are quite right. I'm not sure where I got that from. Anyway, Chestnut Melamine Lacquer is a pretty easy to use product, with the exception of the toxicity. I have only ever used z poy finishing resin as a pore fill. Cheers.
@@robertnewell5057 I looked it up after you commented. Very interesting.
Hi,
what finish to be applief on back of the neck to enhace smoothness to my palm?
Try this: ruclips.net/video/rlkfUoWLH_o/видео.html
How much Crystalac Brite Tone does it take for a single strat-style guitar body?
Less than a quart, but more than a pint.
I tried using Solarez Can't Believe It's not Lacquer but after level sanding and buffing there were witness marks I couldn't seem to get rid of. What do I do to fix this?
I sand with Super Assilex sanding sheets and use a buffing machine.
I am trying out Solarez I'can't believe etc . I can get a smooth finish but I am having trouble getting a clear mirror finish. I wet sand from 800 ,1500, 2000 to 3000 and then I use Stewmacs Fine polish compound . But I can't get a nice sheen . What am I missing . Am I not buffing enough or too much . I end up with a very patchy effect and some haze in places . I am using a small piece of ash which I have sanded to the wood several times to restart but I am having no luck as yet - Chris - I need your help !!
Are you using a buffing machine with 12" or larger wheels? I use one with Menzerna compounds. I can get a decent shine, but Crystalac Brite Tone has a better gloss sheen.
@@HighlineGuitars - Thanks for that Chris . I only have a 6 inch buffer on a power drill and some sponge discs and some
fluffy soft discs . Here in the UK I just can't find the compounds or similar ones !! Crystalac comes up blank as well. I think it is back to Danish oil for me !!
@@HighlineGuitars Well you got me thinking !! And this is what I came up with. I noticed that you use a 12" buffing wheel and mine is a 6" wheel . I realised that my wheel needs to be rotating at twice the speed yours is running at to give the same result so I fitted the wheel to the 40watt mains drill on my pillar stand. This increased the speed to just over twice the speed of my battery drill . Lo and behold I was able to perfect the finish on my test piece . The end result was similar to yours with a few little pin prick like marks but I now feel confident to attempt the process on a guitar body . So ultimately thanks for your input !!
I'd like to apply some decals and cigar bands on my guitar body. What would you recommend doing in that type of project, where it's going to cover decals?
Bury the decals in numerous coats of clear. With 10-15 coats, you should be able to level and polish the surface so you won't feel the edges of the decals.
@@HighlineGuitars awesome, thank you.