Just a heads up, but it is worth mentioning proper disposal of the poly cloth. Potential fire hazard if u just toss it in the trash wadded up. Need to spread the cloth flat, and let it dry outside somewhere, or hanging over the rim of a metal can.
Highline Guitars - for my reference next time I’m doing a video with wipe on poly, if you happen to have a video on this mix please let me know and I would be happy to refer people to it.
@@BradAngove I don't think I have a video where I specifically detail the mix, but it's basically equal parts of oil-based polyurethane, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. You can play with the ratios for different results for different woods, swap out the mineral spirits for naphtha, and add Japan drier to speed up the drying process.
Would the same sandpaper/wipe on work for a guitar that has been stained? Once I get the desired color depth, I want to keep it. I Don't want the sanding to ruin the stain.
Brad, you are the best. You show enough of the work, so that we know what to do, and about how long it will take. You show what to use, and you show us the finished project. Your balance of these elements is almost perfect. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I usually like to have more than one opinion on these types of things but honestly your videos are the only solid and consistent content in this field that I find trustworthy. Your channel fits a necessary niche and you deserve all the views you have.
Hey Brad, I’ve been following your feeds a while now. I’ve worked with all sorts of Polyurethanes my whole life and I’ve honestly never seen this method! This looks like a great time saver eliminating some steps sanding and re-applying, I’ve done woodwork but I’m not a guitar’builder’ although I’m going to give this a try soon for sure on a Strat body. Thank you! 🤙
Brad, thank you for sharing. I just finished applying Minwax Pecan Satin - PolyShades, Stain & Polyurethane in 1 Step, using your wipe on poly method. So far your method is giving the finish that I'm looking for. Excellent process. Thanks 1,000 times. Keep up the good work.
During lockdown, I've been making a parts guitar just using hand tools in my flat. I've been stuck on how to finish it without access to a space to use spray cans but this looks a lot more achievable given the limiting circumstances!
As a money saver- you can dilute the regular Minwax poly with Denatured alcohol or mineral spirits and use it as a wipe-on poly finish. Great video, Brad!
You can still do it like this on a dyed surface, but you need to be aware that it could pull some of the dye out. Even in you apply it by rag right from the beginning it can do that. It depends to some degree on what dye you're using.
Yes; I've used this method over stained and dyed surfaces before and haven't run into any problems. As long as it's not that stupid 2 in 1 stain and topcoat stuff.
im a complete beginner to guitar finishing, and this is the method i will use on the telecaster kit im getting! looks brilliant and thanks for the tips!
I like that you don't put a thick layer on. I like just enough to protect it and give it a shine, but not build it up so it still feels like a wooden instrument.
Thanks Brad, I know this is an older video but it came in handy today for my Solo 5 String banjo project. I sanded to 400 grit and now realize I need to go finer !! I have had success with this wipe on poly stuff and much prefer it to the thought of 30 coats of clear coat!
Thank you for the informative video, I gleaned a lot of good and useful tips for finishing some guitar projects from this video and from reading many of the comments and your replies. Please have an excellent and awesome day! 🙂
I used it on a strat body with the same results you had, but I didn't apply it with sandpaper. I was worried that dye would bleed too much. I'm going to use poly on my first acoustic guitar build next week. No dyes or stains to bleed, just natural wood. I'll try it your way to see which works better for me.
Great job done well. There are dozens of ways to apply finishes, but for something the size of a guitar body that was likely the most cost effect way to get great results. There are wood graining tecniques that could be applied to a plain body guitar over color if someone wanted that kind of wood grain effect. Some of the step as very similar to what you did.. I've wanted to for sometime do a distressed wood grain guitar, very rustic, The Rat Rod Of Guitars so to speak. All kinds of bizarre effects with hardware, square head nails the whole bit, but a guitar that plays like a dream. The imagination is the only limit when customiziing anything to make a one off masterpiece. Nice Work.
couldn't get wipe on poly in UK so thinned quick drying poly and wiped it on with micro cloth and was amazed at the gloss finish i got, looks like factory finish now its polished up
Thank you for another great video. I almost always use teak or tru oil for finishes. I'm going to try this on my next build. For all the people asking if this can be done over stain or dye: this is the same concept to apply as oil. Raising the grain before sanding will prevent most of it, but some dye or stain will always come up. Always test on scrap wood first, to find out how it looks.
@@BradAngove so - to clarify - i can still use the sandpaper technique if the wood has been dyed or stained without any problems? im thinking of doing this on a bass drum!
Brad Angove of course brother! So I’m working on my latest build, telecaster body with a book matched spalted maple cap. This will help so much! Quick question, do you think I should apply some sort of oil at first to accent the figure or will the wipe on poly make the grain pop
It depends on what type of oil you have in mind. The wipe on poly will have a similar accenting effect to some oils, but if you were to use for example a tinted danish oil base you would probably notice a difference.
@@BradAngove Quick update, body arrived early, dry sanded back to 320 grit and it it with some mineral spirits to get an idea of the figure. A ton of natural brown and reddish hues (burled & spalted maple) so I decided against any sort of light dye, tint or oil altogether and will be going straight with this method. I recently discovered this supposed clear pore filler called Aqua Coat-I'm going to give it a shot after the preliminary poly-slurry coat (ensuring that it's sealed) to preserve the little insect holes and Knicks and keep it 3D, then follow up with additional poly. I'll keep you updated on how it goes, it might be a decent grain filler. Thanks again Brad! Big fan of your videos. Sharing information and educating is everything. Looking forward to future releases.
Thank you ,Brad. I am in the middle of two guitar builds at the moment, and have previously used lacquer. I love the look of it, but it is extremely toxic and remains fairly reactive to different materials like leather or the cheap rubber on cheap guitar stands. I want to switch to another finish that is not so noxious. I am going to give this a shot. Much appreciated. P.S. : I know this is an older video, and don't expect a response.
Brad, I use stains and spray cans, then 400, 1500, 2500 and 4,0 steel wool between each coat, 10 thin coats, then I get a finish like a factory guitar. Surface prep,sand Polish, take your time, I wait 3 weeks after the last clear coat before using buffing compound. Norman Mozley
This makes a really good (expensive) grain filler as well! Not as messy as those water based fillers who transform your backyard in a snow storm when sanding it off :-)
Hi Brad - great video - the idea of wipe on poly really caught my attention. Question - wondered what you think about using the "trick"application with high grit sand paper as a method of pore filling open grain woods like Rosewood?
That's definitely one way of approaching it, but it would take longer and more material. I would typically do a quick grain fill on those with paste wood filler first before progressing to this stage.
Great video as always. Can I ask what that routed cut-out is in between the pickup pockets? Strange place for a selector switch if that's what it is. Keep up the great vids!
Hey Brad, great video as are all of your videos. I am starting my first guitar body staining attempt. I am trying a Tobacco burst of some type. Just one question - Where do you get the Behlen Buffer's Polish. Having a hard time finding a supplier.
Beholden has been replaced by Mohawk through a rebranding. What you’re probably looking for at this point (I did a demo video on it a few weeks ago) is the Mohawk buff n polish kit.
Hey Brad! Love your work and this video is a huge victory for me - saving me from screwing up my Mike Lipe Gibson Les Paul restoration project with nitro. QUESTION: After trying to find the Behrens I eventually discovered your video on how they are now Mohawk but I still can't find Mohawk Buffer's Polish on Amazon. Is there any other product you can recommend? I'm about a heartbeat away from trying Howard RS0016 Restor-A-Shine Wood Finish Polishing Compound but I thought I'd check with you first. Keep up the fantastic work and content! Cheers
Mohawk has a buff and polish kit, but really there are lots of good options. Meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish tend to be quite easy to find and they work well.
Amazing Brad . I hope you , fam . friends are all safe and healthy . Things are getting better in NYC where i live now ..but this thing won't go away. So i just purchased a Warmoth Strat unfinished maple body for a new build and I'm going to use this method because it makes all the sense in the world ...just have to do the entire body in the same process . Still not in better shape than you but I've had some downtime for serious kettle bell workouts at home lol. Any additional tips such as screwing in a blank into the neck pocket so everything is blending ? I only want to do this once ! lol Thanks man !
Great video! Could you use a orbital polisher with a finishing sponge on it for the buffers polish? Or do you need all of that pressure to achieve the results required?
Yes very. Wish I saw before I built my first one. Sanding is so important. I like Bargin Musician kits, can you do one on aligning glue necks in case pocket isn't straight I have a 335 kit I'll be doing soon. Or one about bolting on a glue in neck for shimming.
Hey Brad, really cool and informative video! I have a swamp ash telecaster thinline body that is so far only treated with some coats of boiled linseed oil. Would the trick with the sandpaper and wipe on poly also work with this body (with the very open pores and also the already applicated oil)? thanks a lot!
Yes, it would work. However I don’t want to mislead you into thinking this will fill the pores on ash. They are usually too open for this to be sufficient.
Hey Brad, just discovered your channel, loving it! I’d love to do my own guitar build, but I’d probably like to dye the wood first. Would this method using wipe-on poly still work as a clear coat? Would you use the sandpaper for the first coat(s) if you had dyed the wood? Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
Hey Brad, i have stained with crimson guitars stains my guitar, and i wanna ask a question..can i use polyurethane 2 pack for floors, or polyurethane water based is better and safer for wipe on with a cloth as a finish? Thanks for your time and tips!
Hi Brad, Great tutorial and that finish turned out great! What kind of wood was that guitar body made of? Also, did you use any grain filler prior to applying the wipe-on poly finish or was that step taken care of with the saw dust mix with the poly? Is it possible to apply Tung oil before the poly? Lastly, I have an alder Jazz Bass body on order and wondering if that type of wood will yield similar results.
I just Tung oiled a replacement neck. It turned out well. Still...I have not a proper clue in what I am doing....but you do. These vids will do quite nicely I think. 👌✌️😎🎸🤣👍🤣
Dear GOD! Inspiring!!! Do you have a video of... Os, sod it. I'll just have to watch a whole bunch and see if I can find what I'm looking for. GOOD video.
Thanks Brad! Great and helpful video! If you were applying the Wipe-on Poly over a solid painted guitar and not the natural wood, would you still recommend applying the coats using 1500 sandpaper or with your experience, would you recommend a different finish over a solid painted (acrylic) guitar?
Hey Brad this looks great, have you even done any work the Squire Affinity Telecasters necks to get them to look a bit darker like the body of this guitar ? I have one of these squire telecasters and it has a satin finish that feels and plays great, however the whitish maple is not very appealing to me. I don't mind spending some time to work on it, just want to find the right materials to darken the neck and fretboard and maintain satin finish, thanks and keep up the good work !!
Brad, I enjoyed your video and I look forward to trying out what you've taught here. So let me ask you If I got this right? I'm finishing a guitar and I'm using some water based aniline wood dye on a figured maple veneer top. After I've finished the dye, I want to use minwax clear gloss poly. Do I go straight to the applying it with a rag or should I apply it with the sandpaper like you did for the first couple coats? Is there a certain number of coats I should be aiming for or is it a by feel type of thing? I'm also unsure of what I'm gonna do with the back of my guitar and the neck but it's not figured maple so I'm thinking of using like a standard minwax stain say the color of mahogany. If I do that, is it customary to also put a clear coat of poly over it as well? On a side note, I have a airbrush and a kit with a bunch of different colors from a place called House of Kolor.....got them a few years ago and have never used them......when they are shaked, sounds like a rattle can. They don't go bad easily do they? I know you are a guru with this kind of stuff so was hoping I hadn't ruined them having them sitting for years. Thanks man. Keep up good work.
+Purple Heart Scott Are you using he wipe on poly, or the normal stuff? Generally you would apply a clear over then normal stain as well. The house of kolor stuff should be fine. At most I would think you may need to reduce it a bit more before spraying.
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I have used many of your tips to make my guitar projects a success and less stressfull. Thank you!
I’m glad to hear you’ve found them helpful.
Just a heads up, but it is worth mentioning proper disposal of the poly cloth. Potential fire hazard if u just toss it in the trash wadded up. Need to spread the cloth flat, and let it dry outside somewhere, or hanging over the rim of a metal can.
Oh fuck that I throw it on the garage floor while Im smoking to soak up some oil spills
@@Dickcheese2011😂
@Acoustics1029 💣💥
That was suspected to be the cause of the fire that burned down Jack London's mansion he was building in 1913
I always put those rags into a plastic bag and seal it with a knot
Thanks for validating the idea of using the wipe-on Poly. Worked spectacularly on the cedar tele body I'm making!
Thanks for the video! Very helpful and your guitar came out beautiful.
If you have trouble finding wipe on poly, mix your own with equal parts of poly, mineral spirits, and boiled linseed oil.
I did that and the powerpuff girls were made
@A D next time mix those in a jar, not in your dog.
But I find it really a good solution to have such a self-mixing jar as a dog.
Highline Guitars - for my reference next time I’m doing a video with wipe on poly, if you happen to have a video on this mix please let me know and I would be happy to refer people to it.
@@BradAngove I don't think I have a video where I specifically detail the mix, but it's basically equal parts of oil-based polyurethane, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. You can play with the ratios for different results for different woods, swap out the mineral spirits for naphtha, and add Japan drier to speed up the drying process.
Would the same sandpaper/wipe on work for a guitar that has been stained? Once I get the desired color depth, I want to keep it. I Don't want the sanding to ruin the stain.
wow - that turned out nice ! Really good tutorials here Brad !
Thank you Sam. I appreciate it.
Great tip, and great content! I hadn't considered that method, but now I'm going to have to test it on one coming up.
MY FAVORITE method for re finishing a guitar...the exact same rub on poly....ive done two or three Gibsons like that...and they came out FANTASTIC !!!
Awesome. Glad to hear it.
Brad, you are the best. You show enough of the work, so that we know what to do, and about how long it will take. You show what to use, and you show us the finished project. Your balance of these elements is almost perfect. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thank you Gary. I am very glad that you find my tutorial style helpful.
I usually like to have more than one opinion on these types of things but honestly your videos are the only solid and consistent content in this field that I find trustworthy. Your channel fits a necessary niche and you deserve all the views you have.
Thank you. I’m glad you’re finding the videos useful.
I definitely think of Brad like an authority in making guitars. Trying out this sandpaper and wipe on poly today
Great video. I will definitely try that method.
Hey Brad, I’ve been following your feeds a while now. I’ve worked with all sorts of Polyurethanes my whole life and I’ve honestly never seen this method!
This looks like a great time saver eliminating some steps sanding and re-applying, I’ve done woodwork but I’m not a guitar’builder’ although I’m going to give this a try soon for sure on a Strat body.
Thank you! 🤙
Thanks Thomas. I hope it goes well.
Brad, thank you for sharing.
I just finished applying Minwax Pecan Satin - PolyShades, Stain & Polyurethane in 1 Step, using your wipe on poly method. So far your method is giving the finish that I'm looking for. Excellent process. Thanks 1,000 times.
Keep up the good work.
I’m glad to hear that it’s going well for you.
Polyshades is a horrible guitar finish. It never cures
Thank you for the upload this helped me out a lot with perfecting my wood finishes.
I’m glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching.
Brad you have made my life easier with this video! Thank you! I put this finish on a pedal steel guitar body today.
Awesome!
Really appreciate the tutorial, Brad. Thank you!
Thanks for watching.
During lockdown, I've been making a parts guitar just using hand tools in my flat. I've been stuck on how to finish it without access to a space to use spray cans but this looks a lot more achievable given the limiting circumstances!
Rub on water based stains and rub on poly. Then hand buff 💪
Yes, a great solution to small spaces
@@simmonphoenix3206 Although that 1st stage of applying with sandpaper fills me with dread as it could remove stain.
@@davidcane7211 You don't have to sand. Just leave the pores open. Looks fantastic too!
Or fill them before staining!
Next lockdown,go out and busk with it.
As a money saver- you can dilute the regular Minwax poly with Denatured alcohol or mineral spirits and use it as a wipe-on poly finish. Great video, Brad!
Indeed. You can also use that option to turn it into a sprayable finish. Great tip! Thanks for watching.
Brad Angove what are your thoughts on using hardeners with over the counter minwax polyurethane or lacquers, etc...
I’ve never tried it. It sounds like a decent idea.
Brad Angove Another thought, does this mean you can spray wipe on poly?
You can. It needs to be thinned down a bit with a fast reducer, and isn’t the greatest option per se, but it’s doable.
I tried your finish technique on a bandsaw box and it worked great. Thank you!
I’m glad to hear it went well for you!
Im so DOING this. Brad is the master!
Enjoy!
It was such a relief when he noticed untouched part near the heel xD
Glad I didn't miss that haha.
yeah that was driving ME crazy-lol
The magic word for describing the finish/dust mixture is "slurry".
I've heard about that slurry, it's also called Santorum right?
"Can you slurry, can you picnic?"
very good , you 're brought us a long way in a few easy steps ( other than the elbow grease)
great work and thanx for the education
Thanks Bob.
Using your technique on my barnwood guitar build. First coat done and it looks and feels great!
Excellent. Glad to hear it.
The sandpaper trick is genius.
would you still use the sandpaper over a dyed surface?
Ron Means same question I have.
Yeah I'm curious how this whole process would be different on something like a dyed or stained quilted or flame maple top.
You can still do it like this on a dyed surface, but you need to be aware that it could pull some of the dye out. Even in you apply it by rag right from the beginning it can do that. It depends to some degree on what dye you're using.
Yes; I've used this method over stained and dyed surfaces before and haven't run into any problems. As long as it's not that stupid 2 in 1 stain and topcoat stuff.
You're welcome. Best of luck with your project.
looks great!
im a complete beginner to guitar finishing, and this is the method i will use on the telecaster kit im getting! looks brilliant and thanks for the tips!
Going to finish my DIY Jazzmaster like this too!
Riley And dit that turn out well? I want to do the same with a jazzmaster. Curious about yours!
I like that you don't put a thick layer on. I like just enough to protect it and give it a shine, but not build it up so it still feels like a wooden instrument.
How many coats?
"hopefully some of you guys are in better shape than me"
I think it's unlikely!
It would be more likely now haha.
I’m eating Doritos while reading this.
Agreed! We should all look that good, the rotten blighter! ;)
Thanks Brad, I know this is an older video but it came in handy today for my Solo 5 String banjo project. I sanded to 400 grit and now realize I need to go finer !! I have had success with this wipe on poly stuff and much prefer it to the thought of 30 coats of clear coat!
Glad to hear you found the video helpful.
Nice video! I’m wanting to do something with my first fender. This looks really good.
Thanks Brad! Love your channel !
Thanks Michael.
Tremendously helpful, as always.
Glad you found it useful.
This is great1 I learned a lot. It reminds me of doing oil finishes using fine sand paper to fill the grain with the fine dust that is created.
Indeed, that’s kind of the same concept. This finish just tends to cumulatively be a bit faster than oil. Although each certainly has its place haha.
Great looking finish! Thanks for the info.
Thanks for watching.
This video is extremely well done. Very helpful.
Thanks. I’m glad you like it.
Niiiiiice job man. Veeeery nice indeed.............
Great tips, thanks for sharing!
+FlyingSquirrelTony Thanks for watching.
Great tut Brad. I think I'll follow this method for my DIY Telecaster project.
I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the awesome video. Using this technique on my Jaguar build!
Awesome. I hope it goes well for you.
Thanks so much man, you’re friendlier than a lot of guitar guys on here.
Great job, this I never knew!!
Thanks for the tips and tricks
Thanks for watching.
Love your videos! very helpful ! Thanks
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the informative video, I gleaned a lot of good and useful tips for finishing some guitar projects from this video and from reading many of the comments and your replies. Please have an excellent and awesome day! 🙂
Thanks Mike.
Thank you for sharing
Great process...
Thanks for watching.
I used it on a strat body with the same results you had, but I didn't apply it with sandpaper. I was worried that dye would bleed too much.
I'm going to use poly on my first acoustic guitar build next week. No dyes or stains to bleed, just natural wood. I'll try it your way to see which works better for me.
Great job done well.
There are dozens of ways to apply finishes, but for something the size of a guitar body that was likely the most cost effect way to get great results.
There are wood graining tecniques that could be applied to a plain body guitar over color if someone wanted that kind of wood grain effect. Some of the step as very similar to what you did..
I've wanted to for sometime do a distressed wood grain guitar, very rustic, The Rat Rod Of Guitars so to speak.
All kinds of bizarre effects with hardware, square head nails the whole bit, but a guitar that plays like a dream.
The imagination is the only limit when customiziing anything to make a one off masterpiece. Nice Work.
Very good. not seen that technique before.
Great tips! Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
couldn't get wipe on poly in UK so thinned quick drying poly and wiped it on with micro cloth and was amazed at the gloss finish i got, looks like factory finish now its polished up
Nice. The wipe on and brush on are pretty much the same product in different viscosities.
Looks awesome!!!!
Thank you!
Thank you for another great video. I almost always use teak or tru oil for finishes. I'm going to try this on my next build.
For all the people asking if this can be done over stain or dye: this is the same concept to apply as oil. Raising the grain before sanding will prevent most of it, but some dye or stain will always come up. Always test on scrap wood first, to find out how it looks.
You can apply this same technique to oils if you prefer them.
@@BradAngove so - to clarify - i can still use the sandpaper technique if the wood has been dyed or stained without any problems? im thinking of doing this on a bass drum!
No, the sandpaper technique can remove some of the color and create a “distressed” look.
Thanks for putting this video together.
Thanks for watching.
@@BradAngove I found out that Behlen buffers polish has been discontinued. Do you have any recommendations for a substitute? Thanks
TY I learned a lot from you and you explain and make it easy.
I’m glad you found the video helpful.
Thank you for posting
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video. It took away the worry of the final step of my guitar build.
I'm glad to hear it. Thanks for watching.
Really appreciate your video.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks!
perfect. just the vid i needed to do a nice simple refinish on an old gouged up Tele i found
Same here,sand the bajesus out of your tele and hit it with poly : }
Very informative. Subscribed.
Welcome aboard
Great video thanks
Thank you
Brad you're the man! What a wealth of knowledge.
Thanks Chris.
Brad Angove of course brother! So I’m working on my latest build, telecaster body with a book matched spalted maple cap. This will help so much!
Quick question, do you think I should apply some sort of oil at first to accent the figure or will the wipe on poly make the grain pop
It depends on what type of oil you have in mind. The wipe on poly will have a similar accenting effect to some oils, but if you were to use for example a tinted danish oil base you would probably notice a difference.
@@BradAngove Quick update, body arrived early, dry sanded back to 320 grit and it it with some mineral spirits to get an idea of the figure. A ton of natural brown and reddish hues (burled & spalted maple) so I decided against any sort of light dye, tint or oil altogether and will be going straight with this method.
I recently discovered this supposed clear pore filler called Aqua Coat-I'm going to give it a shot after the preliminary poly-slurry coat (ensuring that it's sealed) to preserve the little insect holes and Knicks and keep it 3D, then follow up with additional poly. I'll keep you updated on how it goes, it might be a decent grain filler.
Thanks again Brad! Big fan of your videos. Sharing information and educating is everything. Looking forward to future releases.
Looks good.
Thanks. I’m glad you think so.
That's a great method, Brad. I'm going to have to try it on a couple of pieces. I'll probably us a DA polisher, though!
I hope it goes well for you.
Good tips!
Thanks.
nice one Brad..
Thanks.
Thank you ,Brad. I am in the middle of two guitar builds at the moment, and have previously used lacquer. I love the look of it, but it is extremely toxic and remains fairly reactive to different materials like leather or the cheap rubber on cheap guitar stands. I want to switch to another finish that is not so noxious. I am going to give this a shot. Much appreciated.
P.S. : I know this is an older video, and don't expect a response.
I hope it goes well for you.
this channel is awesome.
Thanks; I’m glad you like it.
Nice.
Very helpful
Glad to hear that
Brad, I use stains and spray cans, then 400, 1500, 2500 and 4,0 steel wool between each coat, 10 thin coats, then I get a finish like a factory guitar. Surface prep,sand
Polish, take your time, I wait 3 weeks after the last clear coat before using buffing compound. Norman Mozley
If your doing something small like a neck you can wipe on regular poly I've done it a hundred times poly is like water allready by the way great job
Wow - very beautiful hand-rubbed polishing result at 12:13 of the video ..
great video..
Glad you liked it.
Wipe on Poly? Who woulda thunk! You’re in great shape btw
Thanks
Thanks
This makes a really good (expensive) grain filler as well! Not as messy as those water based fillers who transform your backyard in a snow storm when sanding it off :-)
Hi Brad - great video - the idea of wipe on poly really caught my attention. Question - wondered what you think about using the "trick"application with high grit sand paper as a method of pore filling open grain woods like Rosewood?
That's definitely one way of approaching it, but it would take longer and more material. I would typically do a quick grain fill on those with paste wood filler first before progressing to this stage.
Great video as always. Can I ask what that routed cut-out is in between the pickup pockets? Strange place for a selector switch if that's what it is. Keep up the great vids!
I believe that’s just to help with feeding the wires through.
Hey Brad, great video as are all of your videos. I am starting my first guitar body staining attempt. I am trying a Tobacco burst of some type. Just one question - Where do you get the Behlen Buffer's Polish. Having a hard time finding a supplier.
Beholden has been replaced by Mohawk through a rebranding. What you’re probably looking for at this point (I did a demo video on it a few weeks ago) is the Mohawk buff n polish kit.
Hey Brad! Love your work and this video is a huge victory for me - saving me from screwing up my Mike Lipe Gibson Les Paul restoration project with nitro. QUESTION: After trying to find the Behrens I eventually discovered your video on how they are now Mohawk but I still can't find Mohawk Buffer's Polish on Amazon. Is there any other product you can recommend? I'm about a heartbeat away from trying Howard RS0016 Restor-A-Shine Wood Finish Polishing Compound but I thought I'd check with you first.
Keep up the fantastic work and content! Cheers
Mohawk has a buff and polish kit, but really there are lots of good options. Meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish tend to be quite easy to find and they work well.
Amazing Brad . I hope you , fam . friends are all safe and healthy . Things are getting better in NYC where i live now ..but this thing won't go away. So i just purchased a Warmoth Strat unfinished maple body for a new build and I'm going to use this method because it makes all the sense in the world ...just have to do the entire body in the same process . Still not in better shape than you but I've had some downtime for serious kettle bell workouts at home lol. Any additional tips such as screwing in a blank into the neck pocket so everything is blending ? I only want to do this once ! lol
Thanks man !
Just make sure you are careful to manage any drips as you work and don’t rush it. Enjoy!
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad . You'll be the first to know how this turns out . much appreciated!
Looks pretty dam nice, I'm gonna do this to my old Ibanez GAX 75 didn't wanna let it go. But I never liked the paint job. Gonna customize my old axe
I love refurbishing old guitars to make them feel new and exciting.
Great video! Could you use a orbital polisher with a finishing sponge on it for the buffers polish? Or do you need all of that pressure to achieve the results required?
Yes you can use an orbital.
Yes very. Wish I saw before I built my first one. Sanding is so important. I like Bargin Musician kits, can you do one on aligning glue necks in case pocket isn't straight I have a 335 kit I'll be doing soon. Or one about bolting on a glue in neck for shimming.
I’ll cover that if any of my upcoming kits aren’t aligned properly.
Hey Brad, really cool and informative video! I have a swamp ash telecaster thinline body that is so far only treated with some coats of boiled linseed oil. Would the trick with the sandpaper and wipe on poly also work with this body (with the very open pores and also the already applicated oil)?
thanks a lot!
Yes, it would work. However I don’t want to mislead you into thinking this will fill the pores on ash. They are usually too open for this to be sufficient.
Hey Brad, just discovered your channel, loving it! I’d love to do my own guitar build, but I’d probably like to dye the wood first. Would this method using wipe-on poly still work as a clear coat? Would you use the sandpaper for the first coat(s) if you had dyed the wood? Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
The wipe on poly is fine but I would use a cloth instead of the sandpaper.
Hey Brad, i have stained with crimson guitars stains my guitar, and i wanna ask a question..can i use polyurethane 2 pack for floors, or polyurethane water based is better and safer for wipe on with a cloth as a finish?
Thanks for your time and tips!
awesome
Thank you Rita.
Hi Brad,
Great tutorial and that finish turned out great! What kind of wood was that guitar body made of? Also, did you use any grain filler prior to applying the wipe-on poly finish or was that step taken care of with the saw dust mix with the poly? Is it possible to apply Tung oil before the poly? Lastly, I have an alder Jazz Bass body on order and wondering if that type of wood will yield similar results.
I’m pretty sure this was alder. No grain filler with this technique. You can use this technique for tung oil first.
Looks amazing. I’m about to do my first build and want this type of finish , only slightly darker. Any tips on what I should get?
You can just add a bit of dye to the poly if you want.
I just Tung oiled a replacement neck. It turned out well. Still...I have not a proper clue in what I am doing....but you do. These vids will do quite nicely I think. 👌✌️😎🎸🤣👍🤣
I love a good tung oiled neck.
maaan, this looks way easier than with the brush. now i need to get this polyurethane. thanks a lot for sharing
Thanks for watching
Dear GOD! Inspiring!!!
Do you have a video of... Os, sod it. I'll just have to watch a whole bunch and see if I can find what I'm looking for. GOOD video.
Thank you. I’m glad you like it.
Thanks Brad! Great and helpful video! If you were applying the Wipe-on Poly over a solid painted guitar and not the natural wood, would you still recommend applying the coats using 1500 sandpaper or with your experience, would you recommend a different finish over a solid painted (acrylic) guitar?
I would recommend a spray finish over that. A spray poly should work.
Hey Brad, great series! What is the white material that you're working on top of to apply the poly? It looks slick and easy to clean up.
It’s the backing paper from adhesive vinyl sheet. It’s exactly as you describe haha.
Hey Brad this looks great, have you even done any work the Squire Affinity Telecasters necks to get them to look a bit darker like the body of this guitar ? I have one of these squire telecasters and it has a satin finish that feels and plays great, however the whitish maple is not very appealing to me. I don't mind spending some time to work on it, just want to find the right materials to darken the neck and fretboard and maintain satin finish, thanks and keep up the good work !!
Are you able to spray or are you looking for something you can apply by hand?
@@BradAngove prefer to do this by hand if possible
Brad, I enjoyed your video and I look forward to trying out what you've taught here. So let me ask you If I got this right? I'm finishing a guitar and I'm using some water based aniline wood dye on a figured maple veneer top. After I've finished the dye, I want to use minwax clear gloss poly. Do I go straight to the applying it with a rag or should I apply it with the sandpaper like you did for the first couple coats? Is there a certain number of coats I should be aiming for or is it a by feel type of thing? I'm also unsure of what I'm gonna do with the back of my guitar and the neck but it's not figured maple so I'm thinking of using like a standard minwax stain say the color of mahogany. If I do that, is it customary to also put a clear coat of poly over it as well? On a side note, I have a airbrush and a kit with a bunch of different colors from a place called House of Kolor.....got them a few years ago and have never used them......when they are shaked, sounds like a rattle can. They don't go bad easily do they? I know you are a guru with this kind of stuff so was hoping I hadn't ruined them having them sitting for years.
Thanks man. Keep up good work.
+Purple Heart Scott Are you using he wipe on poly, or the normal stuff?
Generally you would apply a clear over then normal stain as well.
The house of kolor stuff should be fine. At most I would think you may need to reduce it a bit more before spraying.