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Honestly I see wood finishing as the baking of cooking. I love cooking but I hate baking. I love woodworking but I cross my fingers when finishing. You recommend a 50/50 mix but I've also read that a 1/3 and a 1/3 and a 1/3 Poly and Mineral Spirts and Boiled Linseed Oil is the way to go. If you see this and have the time to respond with your thoughts I'd really appreciate it. I know you are very busy of course.
I ask because I am using a refinish without stripping, die to the nature of the project, and since it has lots of details and vertical surfaces, I won't be able to brush it on to anything but the very top.
Such a good, informative video. I have just used the technique and the result is so much better than that which I have achieved in the past by following the manufacturer's directions. Your presentation style is excellent. Many, many thanks.....
Hello Stumpy Nubs! As a Hungarian the “mineral spirit” is a bit confusing for me… What do you call mineral spirit? Denatured alcohol, acetone or turpentine or petroleum or what exactly?
Just a quick tip…hopefully one that hasn’t been discussed here. When a matte or satin finish is desired, and you apply multiple coats, due to the additives that make it satin, it can make the wood grain look cloudy or less than the clear look you want. So if you use a gloss poly for the first 4 or 5 thin coats, then only use the satin for the last coat or two…you still get the clarity you desire, but with the satin or matte finish you desire. Try it..amazing.
I can see the benefit (less cloudy) of applying 50-50 coats of gloss poly and finishing with the 50-50 satin poly. Makes me wonder if Built up coats of regular wipe on Satin poly equates with an inferior (cloudier) finish.
I Have been using this method for 30 years and it works well. use 50/50 for first 2 coats and about 2/3 mineral spirits to 1/3 poly for remaining coats, [maybe 4 more]. On last coat I use the 50/50 heavy and use 1200 grit paper to sand then wipe it off and its a great finish. James thanks again for your tips. An old man like me likes the way you present every subject you discuss. Keep'em coming Jimmy my boy.
@@carlosttc2786 I would not. Not being a chemist, I was told long ago that mineral spirits does not have an adverse reaction to oil based poly. Hope that helps and good luck.
@@onetym282 It depends on temp and humidity. Higher temps with low humidity will mean faster drying. you should be able to tell by touch, or using a lint free cloth to wipe, and see if it's still tacky.
Wet sanding using wipe-on poly as the lubricant makes a better finish than you thought possible. I like to take it up to 600 grit. It changes the nature of the wood to diminish pores and beautify grain to make a plain piece of hardwood look like it belongs in a museum. Try it, you'll be amazed.
I thinned the poly for a long time, but I finally discovered you can use a disposable microfiber cloth and wipe it on, and the finish looks the same. If you prefer putting on a large number of really thin coats, go ahead and thin it. But don't have to. The regular stuff will wipe on just fine. Note: I have never, ever found a way to brush on poly without it having bubbles. But a wipe-on finish doesn't bubble.
Water based wipe on poly: I've used it on White Oak, when I wanted the original white oak color to shine through. Regular poly and other oil based finishes made it too yellow. So it was either $1million for White tinted Rubio Monocoat, or thinned water based poly, wiped on, as I didn't want the thick film that it normally leaves :)
Just a quick thanks to Stumpy as this video has completely changed how I finish projects now. I have completed 2 items since this came out and used a diluted poly on each with great results. I used to brush on my finish but was never thrilled with trying to keep out brush marks and dust. Now I'm applying 6-8 very thin coats and ending up with a great satin finish that still shows the texture of the wood. Thank you!
I learned the brown paper bag trick more than 30 years ago from an old carpenter I worked with at the time. You are the first one I've ever heard mention the technique in all the years since.
@@bromarbuildz-oy7lsWow. I don't, or haven't ever tried using power. Just elbow grease and not too much of that really. The paper's ability to burnish between coats of finish is surprising. Of course meticulous initial surface prep and thin coats are required for it work its best.
It will dry slower in cooler temps. But as I said, if it's not gumming up your sandpaper, it's dry. Streaks can come from uneven mixing (especially satin or matte sheen) and from over brushing/wiping. When it's applied evenly, stop wiping it around.
Here's another hint. When you thin a urethane with flatteners in it, they will settle more quickly, and be harder to mix back in, so stir it frequently. Also, every flattener out there will add some haze to the finish. To cut down on that, use a high gloss for your first couple of coats, and then the satin or semi gloss for the last two coats. Another way to use a high gloss to get a satin look is to let the finish cure for a week or two, then wet sand with automotive sand paper. I like to use mineral spirits instead of water for the wet sanding. Stop at the grit when you see the gloss level you want.
I'm really glad you posted this. I was just recently watching something else where they used wipe on stain and poly, but did not go into detail as to why and what the benefits are. The video you posted was way more informational. Thanks for putting this together.
Very timely. I’ve seen this method used before, but not explained. I appreciate your attention to details when showing a new method. Will be trying it out this weekend. Thanks for another great tip!
A few years ago my wife refinished a coffee table and 2 end tables. She used floor polyurethane as a top coat. We find the this finish absolutely bulletproof. Water can stand on this stuff for hours on end without so much as a hint of a mark. Problem is it only comes in gallon cans. Can you do an episode on the pros and cons of using floor poly on furniture / how to make it yourself perhaps / how to successfully split up a gallon into 4 quarts for long term storage perhaps. I have no idea what might be possible. Love your channel. Very informative. Thanks.
1:1:1 poly: mineral spirits: BLO. This gives a wipe-on finish similar to "Tru Oil!" You might have to adjust to suit. Downside is that this is a 'long' varnish but gives a superb finish. I first read about it in a Sam Maloof furniture book.
Thank you Mr. Hamilton! I started working on my grandfather's old desk. The polyurethane was way too thick for the nooks and crannies yet fine for the flat areas. Your wipe-on poly is helping make my finish much more uniform over the entire piece.
I've been using this method but with a bit of boiled linseed oil in the mix. It helps keep its workability longer so getting a smooth finish is easier. It seems like it stays wet for quite awhile but when it starts to dry it happens real quick. Another plus is that it seems to sand better for the next coat. It powders up nicely so it's easy to see where it's been sanded. Wipe down with mineral spirits and it's ready for another coat. 3 to 5 will get the desired results. I refinished my wife's "heirloom" sewing machine this way and it looks great. Getting the layers of cigarette tar off the unit presented another problem, but I did leave the cigarette burn marks and some other scars in the wood just for the "historical value" :)
Simple, clear language, to the point and loaded with useful informatiion. Thank you so much. Also for having the first advertisement I was actually happy to listen to (and will look in to) and for not begging for subscribers, simply asking .
I keep my polyurethane in 20oz plastic soda bottles. I add a small squeeze of mineral spirits if it looks like it's getting too thick. This greatly improves the shelf life, particularly with satin, which can clump up if it sits for too long unattended. Way easier than always prying open and resealing metal cans, which never seem to stay air tight after mangling the lid too many times.
I recently learned that a wipe-on poly can be used to fill in the cracks and gaps left when making box joints. I simply loved your RUclips on making your own wipe-on poly. This will save me lots of time and money. I will definitely try this. Your advise is wonderful and for a newbie like myself, I appreciative it. Thanks Stumpy Nubs.
Thank you very much for yet again a detailed yet concise explanation. I live in Portugal now and wipe on is about 80 dollars a pint on Amazon here, hjowever regular poly is not bad.
As a hobbyist woodworker, I watch so many of these videos, and I have to say this video (and your channel overall) is so well done-on topic, clear, and so succinctly explained. Thank you!
Thank you James. I've been looking for this for a while, and this advice is excellent. For any other Aussies wondering what US "mineral spirit" is, it appears to be the same as our "mineral turpentine". Not "turpentine".
This video was so timely. I was about to order a new can of wipe on poly last night, but decided to wait. Your video popped up in my feed and I’m so glad it did. I will make my own wipe on poly going forward. Thanks for the great videos and tips.
James, Thanks for this tutorial. I am mostly a wood turner and have been using a similar mix. I use 100% PURE tung oil, mineral spirits, and poly. All in equal parts. Great stuff.
Isn’t James terrific?! This short video was full of good info. Just this morning I finished up a small bench, and had applied two coats of the Wipe-On Poly. I’m a (serious) hobbyist carpenter, and I’m always looking for info on how to improve my workmanship. WOP is like my “go to” finish, because it is so easy to use, and gives me consistent and good results. I started off with shellac, but I never seemed to be really successful with it, never quite got a professional looking finish. A hardware sales guy suggested WOP, and I’ve used it ever since. But now, I think JH has just bumped up my finishing skills a small notch with this video. Thanks James!!
I applied polyurethane to my custom made Spanish cedar doors an it was a mistake, No luster an lasted a couple of years in the sun and weather. Tung oil was a better looking finish, but did not last as long in the weather. I finally switched to Epifanes clear varnish an after 6 coats with sanding between (starting at #220 with #320 for the last few coats) an the finish was spectacular an durable. If you don't want a glossy finish use a satin finish on the last coat.
Exactly correct. I figured this out several years ago. I even know an added trick. When the temperature is cool, thin it with acetone for quick dry time. I refinish old furniture as a side job. I remember back in the 70's Minwax poly was as thick as honey. You could put on one thick coat, then wait for days for it to dry. Then you had to sand out all the bugs and dust than polish it. Now, I do it like this: First coat, Make a mixture of 25% Linseed oil, 25% poly, 50% Mineral spirits/Acetone. Sand with 400 grit after 24 hours. Second and third coat, 50/50. 400 in between. Last coat, 75/25. Final sand with 600 and a couple of coats of polishing wax. 👍
Just took your advice on a cherry ottoman - 2 cts of Shellac Seal Coat - 3 cts of 50% Poly + 50% Mineral Spirits - First time using this method and it is the best finish I have ever done. It's so smooth and gorgeous! Thank you
Thank you, finishing my first piece, my dining room table. I was so nervous about putting on the poly, you gave me the info I needed clearly. Thanks again.
Great video. Another tip to speed drying is to use a product called Japan Drier which "is a special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerates the drying time of oil-based paint and varnish. Use this product with oil-based paints, oil-based enamels and varnishes." They no longer sell it in California, but you only need a 1/2 of cap full for a cup of varnish so a quart of Japan Drier will last you for many years (if stored correctly with Bloxygen as well).
It is also sold a lot of times as "Tung Oil Finish". This is done a lot in the industry. If people learn what finishes are they are shocked how much fluff is being sold to people. If you want to build very fast but want the final coat to dry fast to reduce dust - brush on as many coats of straight poly (lightly sand between coats) as you want. Then sand the final dry coat with 320 to remove all brush marks. Finally wipe on a couple of coats of the thinned poly.
This is an amazingly good description of wipe on poly, when and why you use it, and how to make it. Every question I had about wipe on poly was answered and more.
Thank you. I have used wipe on poly for year. Done buying the premixed. I usually do several coats of wipe on and finish with the regular poly. Some really good tips here
I started using homemade wipe on poly earlier this year and I will never go back. If it’s not a smaller project that I’d choose danish oil or spray lacquer for, I’m using wipe on poly.
I'm building a trophy case for our local boys' baseball club. I used 3/4 birch plywood, edge banding to cover the exposed edges. The whole project was stained with Minwax Red Oak stain (ended up fairly brown when it was said and done). I applied my first layer of wipe on poly today (didn't have enough spirits so my mix ended up being 60/40 poly). I'm crossing my fingers it comes out well (knowing that the mix changes are on me of course). This will be the third time James' tutorials have helped me tackle something new in this project. Between James and Steve Ramsey I will be able to get this piece made before spring opening day.
Lesson learned. 50/50 was critical for the poly I used. I got all sorts of streaks using my mismatched ratio. the 50/50 I mixed later went on flawlessly. Thanks again.
I used a 60/40 poly/solvent mix & 6 coats rubbed on a butcher block counter followed by 2 coats of paste wax. So very happy with this style of finishing.
So intuitive and clearly illustrated. All points, from plastic water bottle sanding and filling in pores, to final paper bag. The wipe-on is so expensive. Thank you ....
Wish I'd seen this before watching numerous guitar channels on "how to do a wipe on finish on a guitar body". Not one mentioned the "thin it yourself method", which is ideal for the purpose. Many thanks and blessings.
I have been getting excellent results using Minwax gloss wipe on poly for my wood turnings. I ran out a couple days ago and went down to my local hardware store for some more, but was taken aback by the current price of this stuff. Add to that the cost of buying smaller vessels to store it in and I decided against and came home to look up making my own. I had watched a video or two some time back so I knew some people were just thinning conventional poly varnish. After researching, I went back to the store to find that Minwax fast drying poly varnish was $16.95 for a quart while wipe on poly was $23.95 for a quart. Anyway, long story short, I bought the varnish, thinned it roughly 50% and finished up the piece that I was working on when I ran out. I have to say I cannot tell any difference in how the home made version works compared to the factory product. I got a comparable glass smooth and clear finish. I'm sold...I'll never buy wipe on again.
Oh yay, I love it. Dust on the surface has been an issue for me. I've tried a variety of things to avoid it, but this one is by far the best. Thank you very much.
So great! I wanted to get the wipe on but live in Spain and could only find it in the US with shipping added to the already high price. This video is a godsend! Thank you!
Yes. I’m making door liners for my Vanagon. I’m using 1/8” Baltic Birch and was going to spray them. I will use wipe on poly instead to avoid contamination. Thanks for the video. I always enjoy your tutorials and tricks. Keep up the good work. I hope your hand is doing good.😎😎😎👍👍👍
Thanks for this video. I made my husband a black walnut floating desk and it turned out so well and I don't want to ruin it with a bad finish. I always come to your videos if I need very accurate information. :)
Good advice! As a side note i've used the water base to do marblizing & making various tints of basic latex colors. You can also add a small amount to latex paint for high traffic areas to make it more scrubable.
I use a 3 parts mineral spirts to 1 part poly mix. No sanding in between until I'm ready for the final coat, at which time I use 220 and works great. I normally to 5 coats.
Oh , i only wish i found your video before I started to restore my dinning table . I did not know wipe on polyurethane a thing. it was a long 18 days of since I started the project . too many mistakes. too many brush bubbles , too many waves too many hours of sanding to correct the mistake. Too many brush cleaning. Too many hours wasted . 7 times i used brush to try to achieve what one quick simple wipe can do . Man it was so , so much simpler . Thank you so much
Just saw and I have to say thank you. I have been watching other channels where they are using store bought wipe on poly. I went to Lowes to buy some but was taken aback by the price. Now knowing what it is, 1 I do not know why it is so expensive and 2 now I can make my own.
Hi James! Very useful video for me. I've seen clips of people using google wipe on poly but it seems that all those who say "then finish with wipe on poly" assume the viewer is familiar with the product and its use. Will be giving this a go on my next project. Thanks always for sharing, I look forward to every video, although I'm usually many episodes behind. Cheers from BC and please stay safe!
Thank you for the explanation. I was introduced to this application some 25+ years ago by an old furniture maker. It was great seeing an expert using the same process I not only swear by, but introduce to other folks. I actually have a video up with a close explanation. Thank you again
Discovered this on my own. The first and last coats can be put on with wet&dry 400 sandpaper and wiped down with a lint-free water-damp cloth. Before the very last coat is fully dry you can spray on a light coat from a rattle can. Another trick. Take varathane for instance. The water-based Diamond finish is clear and does not yellow the color of the wood. Kinda looks like Scandinavian furniture. And it dries vastly harder and tougher than the oil based varathane gloss. But the Diamond finish has one nasty drawback. It severly raises the grain of red oak- just after you've sanded it to a beautiful finish. The remedy here -and I talked this over with the varathane people at Flecto- was that you CAN do some initial light coats of the regular oil-based finish, scotchbriting between coats, vacuuming and wiping off the dust with a damp cloth, thoroughly drying after each coat, and then you CAN use the Diamond water-based varathane, as many coats as you want. The oil base against the raw wood will prevent the grain from raising and keep the warm yellowed color, while the Diamond finish adds clear incredible toughness. My stair railings done this way have lasted for 30 years of heavy use just fine. Secret: sand wash & dry between each coat except after the last wiped or brushed coat. The very very last coat can be sprayed on before the previous one is fully set. Keep the dust down and don't leave any fingerprints on your wood. Be fastidious.
Wondered what wipe on was about. I've fhinned the first coat for decades to get a tiny bit of penetration, never occurred to me to build coats that way. Gonna give it a try. Didn't know about brown paper bags either, interesting
Good tip. I bought a can of wipe on poly and after about six months and about half the can left, it started to thicken and became useless. I will be trying to make my own from now on.
Thank you, I’ve just made my first batch and it’s amazing stuff! For UK folks it’s 50/50 poly and white spirit 👍🏻 one day we’ll have the same names for things either side of the pond I hope - America using British names of course 😉😂
Wipe on poly seems analogous to the old French polishing method using shellac. I've seen the wipe on poly technique shown on numerous YT restoration videos but this is the first explanation of the actual technique - thanks!
I am an absolute beginner and this was perfect. I just bought a can of Wacom wipe on. This video was direct while being engaging. I look forward to watching more. :)
This is just what I need! The wipe on polys are terribly expensive in my country. And the poly i use (Hudson stain and varnish) is really thick that it pulls individual hairs from the brush itself. And the final finish looks too shiny and plasticky. Thank you for sharing!
To create the "thin slurry" discussed at 2:45, do you let the 75% thinned coat dry before wet sanding, or do you apply that thinned coat and use it as the lubricant for your "wet sanding?"
Polyurethane is OK and everyday projects but on that special wood, I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. It's goes on in micro-thin layers, not like a thick plastic coating. It's very hard and scratch-resistant. You can rub it on, brush it on, or thin it with paint thinner and spray it on. You can even wet block sand it with 1000-1500 grit paper, then polish it. Nothing is even close in shine and scratch resistance.
I found the jointer blades for my old jet jj 6 ! So glad you have a link to them. And the prices are much better than other places online I was looking
Great video! I have a concern about storing oil based chemicals in plastic bottles. I had a reaction putting a rag with Watco on something plastic 30 plus years ago and coming home later and seeing the rag smoking. Not that all plastic bottles would react but a glass bottle might be better.
You, sir, just made my day with this video. Couldnt find a way to get rid of streaks with a brush and still a lot of product left... trying it tomorrow for sure. Thanks a lot!
I've read that the solvents in wipe on polyurethane can dissolve LDPE plastics, which is what most disposable drinking bottles are made of. I'd be concerned about contaminated finish, especially if it sits in the bottle for long or if the bottle is re-used.
I have been doing wood working for a hobby I have never did wipe on finish ever I brush on straight very thin coats, and sand in between every coat, and wipe down with tact cloth, I get glass like finish on every thing I do, then to polish up any thing that I keep I use bees wax on it.
Great tips & none of the nauseous 3min of bullsh1t intros. This was v informative, directly to the point and v helpful.... reat stuff, I think we have a winner. Deffo a subscribe
I've been doing this for years but learned a few more things from your video - very informative. Did you mention that the shelf life of the mixed product is very short? I'm not sure about the poly since I use varnish, but with the varnish the shelf life is a week at most before it hardens in the jar.
I make my own Danish Oil by mixing equal parts polyurethane, mineral spirits, and boiled linseed oil. I think the linseed oil gives the wood a little more protection while bringing out some wood tones,
@@munitaamalia8352 I really never tried. I assume perefin is wax. I don’t know how wax would react with other ingredients. I suggest try it out on a scrap piece of wood. I may be great. Let me know.
Thanks so much man! I love the explanation. I've been using water based poly on everything. Brushing on with even a foam brush, it dries too fast leaving incredibly prominent brush marks. I've sanded, stained, and refinished the table top I'm currently working with, 5 entire times. No matter how careful I am with it, it doesn't come out well at all. I'm going to go make a mixture with some oil base and hopefully have a much better time.
I've always hated poly - I could never get one decent coat without streaking and runs. Tried this on a small project today and was stunnrd at how easy it was and how great it came out. Thanks.
Thank you so much, have been using wipe-on poly for years on my projects and always wondered if I could make it myself? Using different ratios and sanding methods were also great tips, thanks again!
James, could you discuss at some point about what kinds of finishes can be "layered" with other finishes. I hear about oil finishes and polyurethane and waxes etc going either under or over other finishes. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Which are compatible/incompatible? Can water based and oil based layering be done? Knowing very little, I would never have combined different finish types like that but I hear it talked about all the time. Thanks.
Grab a copy of Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" (ISBN-13: 978-1565235489). He explains this very well (both as an easy set of rules and in great detail of why)
Thank you for the easy to follow directions and instructions, but more importantly the “why” behind them. Very informative for those of us who don’t do this type of thing on a regular basis. 👍🏼
This was a great video! I really like these short and informative segments. You have a very method of conveying a topic in a thorough and very concise manner. Thank you again for providing us with this content and knowlede.
Will definitely make up a batch. Recently I made a Murphy Bed and used the water based Poly. It finally came out OK, but your mix would have been MUCH better, thanks! !! !!!
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Honestly I see wood finishing as the baking of cooking. I love cooking but I hate baking. I love woodworking but I cross my fingers when finishing. You recommend a 50/50 mix but I've also read that a 1/3 and a 1/3 and a 1/3 Poly and Mineral Spirts and Boiled Linseed Oil is the way to go. If you see this and have the time to respond with your thoughts I'd really appreciate it. I know you are very busy of course.
Can I ask - is this method also safe to use for stain and poly 2 in 1? It's oil based minwax brand their two in one stain and finish.
I ask because I am using a refinish without stripping, die to the nature of the project, and since it has lots of details and vertical surfaces, I won't be able to brush it on to anything but the very top.
Such a good, informative video.
I have just used the technique and the result is so much better than that which I have achieved in the past by following the manufacturer's directions.
Your presentation style is excellent.
Many, many thanks.....
Hello Stumpy Nubs! As a Hungarian the “mineral spirit” is a bit confusing for me… What do you call mineral spirit? Denatured alcohol, acetone or turpentine or petroleum or what exactly?
Just a quick tip…hopefully one that hasn’t been discussed here. When a matte or satin finish is desired, and you apply multiple coats, due to the additives that make it satin, it can make the wood grain look cloudy or less than the clear look you want. So if you use a gloss poly for the first 4 or 5 thin coats, then only use the satin for the last coat or two…you still get the clarity you desire, but with the satin or matte finish you desire. Try it..amazing.
I can see the benefit (less cloudy) of applying 50-50 coats of gloss poly and finishing with the 50-50 satin poly. Makes me wonder if Built up coats of regular wipe on Satin poly equates with an inferior (cloudier) finish.
D'oh! No I know why my desk top developed a slight haze - five brushed coats of satin poly. :(
Thanks for making us all a little smarter.
@@GarrisonFallhey man, it still looks like a desk you put a lot of love and time in to. Every finished piece is a work of art that you made.
Just learned this the hard way!!
Informative and to the point. Thank you for not making a 20 minute video about this topic.
And for not trying to tell us all how great you are too. You let your work, examples, and teaching talk for you.
Agreed
I Have been using this method for 30 years and it works well. use 50/50 for first 2 coats and about 2/3 mineral spirits to 1/3 poly for remaining coats, [maybe 4 more]. On last coat I use the 50/50 heavy and use 1200 grit paper to sand then wipe it off and its a great finish.
James thanks again for your tips. An old man like me likes the way you present every
subject you discuss. Keep'em coming Jimmy my boy.
nice to hear from old timers about their methods. thank you William.
I am new to wood working, Can I use Denatured alcohol instead of Mineral spirits?
@@carlosttc2786 I would not. Not being a chemist, I was told long ago that mineral spirits does not have an adverse reaction to oil based poly. Hope that helps and good luck.
@@onetym282 It depends on temp and humidity. Higher temps with low humidity will mean faster drying. you should be able to tell by touch, or using a lint free cloth to wipe, and see if it's still tacky.
What's the best kind of cloth to use to apply the wipe on poly?
Wet sanding using wipe-on poly as the lubricant makes a better finish than you thought possible. I like to take it up to 600 grit. It changes the nature of the wood to diminish pores and beautify grain to make a plain piece of hardwood look like it belongs in a museum. Try it, you'll be amazed.
that good eh? ima have to give it a shot then.
A wood workshop to die for. Sometimes I stop the video just to gaze at the background and be inspired!
I thinned the poly for a long time, but I finally discovered you can use a disposable microfiber cloth and wipe it on, and the finish looks the same. If you prefer putting on a large number of really thin coats, go ahead and thin it. But don't have to. The regular stuff will wipe on just fine.
Note: I have never, ever found a way to brush on poly without it having bubbles. But a wipe-on finish doesn't bubble.
killer tip! gotta give that a shot
Water based wipe on poly: I've used it on White Oak, when I wanted the original white oak color to shine through. Regular poly and other oil based finishes made it too yellow. So it was either $1million for White tinted Rubio Monocoat, or thinned water based poly, wiped on, as I didn't want the thick film that it normally leaves :)
everything i look for in a video. short, to the point and no filler/ rambling! love your videos stumpy!
Just a quick thanks to Stumpy as this video has completely changed how I finish projects now. I have completed 2 items since this came out and used a diluted poly on each with great results. I used to brush on my finish but was never thrilled with trying to keep out brush marks and dust. Now I'm applying 6-8 very thin coats and ending up with a great satin finish that still shows the texture of the wood. Thank you!
I tried using poly years ago , and was unhappy , moved to oil, shellac and shine juice . Now I might have to revisit poly
I learned the brown paper bag trick more than 30 years ago from an old carpenter I worked with at the time. You are the first one I've ever heard mention the technique in all the years since.
Yes I learnt it a year ago and oh my it works great. I sometimes just place a brown paper bag under my orbital sander and let it do the rest.
@@bromarbuildz-oy7lsWow. I don't, or haven't ever tried using power. Just elbow grease and not too much of that really. The paper's ability to burnish between coats of finish is surprising. Of course meticulous initial surface prep and thin coats are required for it work its best.
@@bromarbuildz-oy7ls sweet idea!
It will dry slower in cooler temps. But as I said, if it's not gumming up your sandpaper, it's dry. Streaks can come from uneven mixing (especially satin or matte sheen) and from over brushing/wiping. When it's applied evenly, stop wiping it around.
Here's another hint. When you thin a urethane with flatteners in it, they will settle more quickly, and be harder to mix back in, so stir it frequently. Also, every flattener out there will add some haze to the finish. To cut down on that, use a high gloss for your first couple of coats, and then the satin or semi gloss for the last two coats. Another way to use a high gloss to get a satin look is to let the finish cure for a week or two, then wet sand with automotive sand paper. I like to use mineral spirits instead of water for the wet sanding. Stop at the grit when you see the gloss level you want.
This.
I'm really glad you posted this. I was just recently watching something else where they used wipe on stain and poly, but did not go into detail as to why and what the benefits are. The video you posted was way more informational. Thanks for putting this together.
Very timely. I’ve seen this method used before, but not explained. I appreciate your attention to details when showing a new method. Will be trying it out this weekend. Thanks for another great tip!
A few years ago my wife refinished a coffee table and 2 end tables. She used floor polyurethane as a top coat. We find the this finish absolutely bulletproof. Water can stand on this stuff for hours on end without so much as a hint of a mark. Problem is it only comes in gallon cans. Can you do an episode on the pros and cons of using floor poly on furniture / how to make it yourself perhaps / how to successfully split up a gallon into 4 quarts for long term storage perhaps. I have no idea what might be possible. Love your channel. Very informative. Thanks.
1:1:1 poly: mineral spirits: BLO. This gives a wipe-on finish similar to "Tru Oil!" You might have to adjust to suit. Downside is that this is a 'long' varnish but gives a superb finish. I first read about it in a Sam Maloof furniture book.
Thank you Mr. Hamilton! I started working on my grandfather's old desk. The polyurethane was way too thick for the nooks and crannies yet fine for the flat areas. Your wipe-on poly is helping make my finish much more uniform over the entire piece.
I've been using this method but with a bit of boiled linseed oil in the mix. It helps keep its workability longer so getting a smooth finish is easier.
It seems like it stays wet for quite awhile but when it starts to dry it happens real quick.
Another plus is that it seems to sand better for the next coat. It powders up nicely so it's easy to see where it's been sanded.
Wipe down with mineral spirits and it's ready for another coat. 3 to 5 will get the desired results.
I refinished my wife's "heirloom" sewing machine this way and it looks great.
Getting the layers of cigarette tar off the unit presented another problem, but I did leave the cigarette burn marks and some other scars in the wood just for the "historical value" :)
Simple, clear language, to the point and loaded with useful informatiion. Thank you so much. Also for having the first advertisement I was actually happy to listen to (and will look in to) and for not begging for subscribers, simply asking .
I keep my polyurethane in 20oz plastic soda bottles. I add a small squeeze of mineral spirits if it looks like it's getting too thick. This greatly improves the shelf life, particularly with satin, which can clump up if it sits for too long unattended. Way easier than always prying open and resealing metal cans, which never seem to stay air tight after mangling the lid too many times.
I am a beginner who loves DIY. I am refinishing a table top and this is what I am going to follow. Thank you for sharing.
I recently learned that a wipe-on poly can be used to fill in the cracks and gaps left when making box joints. I simply loved your RUclips on making your own wipe-on poly. This will save me lots of time and money. I will definitely try this. Your advise is wonderful and for a newbie like myself, I appreciative it. Thanks Stumpy Nubs.
Thank you very much for yet again a detailed yet concise explanation. I live in Portugal now and wipe on is about 80 dollars a pint on Amazon here, hjowever regular poly is not bad.
As a hobbyist woodworker, I watch so many of these videos, and I have to say this video (and your channel overall) is so well done-on topic, clear, and so succinctly explained. Thank you!
Wow! Where have you been all my life! I am forever changed! Thank you!!
Thank you James. I've been looking for this for a while, and this advice is excellent.
For any other Aussies wondering what US "mineral spirit" is, it appears to be the same as our "mineral turpentine". Not "turpentine".
yes, same thing...
This video was so timely. I was about to order a new can of wipe on poly last night, but decided to wait. Your video popped up in my feed and I’m so glad it did. I will make my own wipe on poly going forward. Thanks for the great videos and tips.
James, Thanks for this tutorial. I am mostly a wood turner and have been using a similar mix. I use 100% PURE tung oil, mineral spirits, and poly. All in equal parts. Great stuff.
Isn’t James terrific?! This short video was full of good info. Just this morning I finished up a small bench, and had applied two coats of the Wipe-On Poly. I’m a (serious) hobbyist carpenter, and I’m always looking for info on how to improve my workmanship. WOP is like my “go to” finish, because it is so easy to use, and gives me consistent and good results. I started off with shellac, but I never seemed to be really successful with it, never quite got a professional looking finish. A hardware sales guy suggested WOP, and I’ve used it ever since. But now, I think JH has just bumped up my finishing skills a small notch with this video. Thanks James!!
I applied polyurethane to my custom made Spanish cedar doors an it was a mistake, No luster an lasted a couple of years in the sun and weather. Tung oil was a better looking finish, but did not last as long in the weather. I finally switched to Epifanes clear varnish an after 6 coats with sanding between (starting at #220 with #320 for the last few coats) an the finish was spectacular an durable. If you don't want a glossy finish use a satin finish on the last coat.
Exactly correct. I figured this out several years ago. I even know an added trick. When the temperature is cool, thin it with acetone for quick dry time. I refinish old furniture as a side job. I remember back in the 70's Minwax poly was as thick as honey. You could put on one thick coat, then wait for days for it to dry. Then you had to sand out all the bugs and dust than polish it. Now, I do it like this: First coat, Make a mixture of 25% Linseed oil, 25% poly, 50% Mineral spirits/Acetone. Sand with 400 grit after 24 hours. Second and third coat, 50/50. 400 in between. Last coat, 75/25. Final sand with 600 and a couple of coats of polishing wax. 👍
Stanley Denning I think you might have made yourself Danish Oil👍
Just took your advice on a cherry ottoman - 2 cts of Shellac Seal Coat - 3 cts of 50% Poly + 50% Mineral Spirits - First time using this method and it is the best finish I have ever done. It's so smooth and gorgeous! Thank you
I need some wipe-on poly for a project I'm working on today and thought, "Stumpy Nubs did a video about this!" Thanks again, James!
Thank you, finishing my first piece, my dining room table. I was so nervous about putting on the poly, you gave me the info I needed clearly. Thanks again.
Great video. Another tip to speed drying is to use a product called Japan Drier which "is a special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerates the drying time of oil-based paint and varnish. Use this product with oil-based paints, oil-based enamels and varnishes." They no longer sell it in California, but you only need a 1/2 of cap full for a cup of varnish so a quart of Japan Drier will last you for many years (if stored correctly with Bloxygen as well).
Makes sense. I like easy and cheap. BTW - Bought jointer knives from My Woodcutters. Great experience. Thanks for recommending them.
It is also sold a lot of times as "Tung Oil Finish". This is done a lot in the industry. If people learn what finishes are they are shocked how much fluff is being sold to people.
If you want to build very fast but want the final coat to dry fast to reduce dust - brush on as many coats of straight poly (lightly sand between coats) as you want. Then sand the final dry coat with 320 to remove all brush marks. Finally wipe on a couple of coats of the thinned poly.
This is an amazingly good description of wipe on poly, when and why you use it, and how to make it. Every question I had about wipe on poly was answered and more.
Thank you. I have used wipe on poly for year. Done buying the premixed. I usually do several coats of wipe on and finish with the regular poly. Some really good tips here
I started using homemade wipe on poly earlier this year and I will never go back. If it’s not a smaller project that I’d choose danish oil or spray lacquer for, I’m using wipe on poly.
I'm building a trophy case for our local boys' baseball club. I used 3/4 birch plywood, edge banding to cover the exposed edges. The whole project was stained with Minwax Red Oak stain (ended up fairly brown when it was said and done). I applied my first layer of wipe on poly today (didn't have enough spirits so my mix ended up being 60/40 poly). I'm crossing my fingers it comes out well (knowing that the mix changes are on me of course). This will be the third time James' tutorials have helped me tackle something new in this project. Between James and Steve Ramsey I will be able to get this piece made before spring opening day.
Lesson learned. 50/50 was critical for the poly I used. I got all sorts of streaks using my mismatched ratio. the 50/50 I mixed later went on flawlessly. Thanks again.
Thanks for several good tips in 5 minutes! Brown paper bag in particular.
I used a 60/40 poly/solvent mix & 6 coats rubbed on a butcher block counter followed by 2 coats of paste wax. So very happy with this style of finishing.
So intuitive and clearly illustrated. All points, from plastic water bottle sanding and filling in pores, to final paper bag. The wipe-on is so expensive. Thank you ....
Wish I'd seen this before watching numerous guitar channels on "how to do a wipe on finish on a guitar body". Not one mentioned the "thin it yourself method", which is ideal for the purpose.
Many thanks and blessings.
This video saved me a lot of money and after trying Arm-R-Seal and Shellac, this is the best method and good looking finish of them all.
Arm-R-Seal is a wiping poly. It should have works for you in the same way that this did.
I have been getting excellent results using Minwax gloss wipe on poly for my wood turnings. I ran out a couple days ago and went down to my local hardware store for some more, but was taken aback by the current price of this stuff. Add to that the cost of buying smaller vessels to store it in and I decided against and came home to look up making my own. I had watched a video or two some time back so I knew some people were just thinning conventional poly varnish. After researching, I went back to the store to find that Minwax fast drying poly varnish was $16.95 for a quart while wipe on poly was $23.95 for a quart. Anyway, long story short, I bought the varnish, thinned it roughly 50% and finished up the piece that I was working on when I ran out. I have to say I cannot tell any difference in how the home made version works compared to the factory product. I got a comparable glass smooth and clear finish. I'm sold...I'll never buy wipe on again.
Thank you! I was going to order some wiping poly but s&h was $61.00. Then I saw your video. Saved me money right off.
Oh yay, I love it. Dust on the surface has been an issue for me. I've tried a variety of things to avoid it, but this one is by far the best. Thank you very much.
So great! I wanted to get the wipe on but live in Spain and could only find it in the US with shipping added to the already high price. This video is a godsend! Thank you!
I haven't used wipe on polyurethane before. I can see the value now and will try it when it makes sense. Thanks!
Yes. I’m making door liners for my Vanagon. I’m using 1/8” Baltic Birch and was going to spray them. I will use wipe on poly instead to avoid contamination. Thanks for the video. I always enjoy your tutorials and tricks. Keep up the good work. I hope your hand is doing good.😎😎😎👍👍👍
Wipe-on poly is also a great for finishing items on the lathe. Regular poly is difficult to apply on the lathe, but wipe-on poly works very well.
Thanks for this video. I made my husband a black walnut floating desk and it turned out so well and I don't want to ruin it with a bad finish. I always come to your videos if I need very accurate information. :)
Good advice!
As a side note i've used the water base to do marblizing & making various tints of basic latex colors. You can also add a small amount to latex paint for high traffic areas to make it more scrubable.
I use a 3 parts mineral spirts to 1 part poly mix. No sanding in between until I'm ready for the final coat, at which time I use 220 and works great. I normally to 5 coats.
I have seen several of your videos before, and appreciate the expertise. I just subscribed - thanks - and keep up the good work!!
Oh , i only wish i found your video before I started to restore my dinning table . I did not know wipe on polyurethane a thing. it was a long 18 days of since I started the project . too many mistakes. too many brush bubbles , too many waves too many hours of sanding to correct the mistake. Too many brush cleaning. Too many hours wasted . 7 times i used brush to try to achieve what one quick simple wipe can do . Man it was so , so much simpler . Thank you so much
Just saw and I have to say thank you. I have been watching other channels where they are using store bought wipe on poly. I went to Lowes to buy some but was taken aback by the price. Now knowing what it is, 1 I do not know why it is so expensive and 2 now I can make my own.
Hi James! Very useful video for me. I've seen clips of people using google wipe on poly but it seems that all those who say "then finish with wipe on poly" assume the viewer is familiar with the product and its use. Will be giving this a go on my next project. Thanks always for sharing, I look forward to every video, although I'm usually many episodes behind. Cheers from BC and please stay safe!
Thank you for the explanation. I was introduced to this application some 25+ years ago by an old furniture maker. It was great seeing an expert using the same process I not only swear by, but introduce to other folks. I actually have a video up with a close explanation. Thank you again
Discovered this on my own. The first and last coats can be put on with wet&dry 400 sandpaper and wiped down with a lint-free water-damp cloth. Before the very last coat is fully dry you can spray on a light coat from a rattle can. Another trick. Take varathane for instance. The water-based Diamond finish is clear and does not yellow the color of the wood. Kinda looks like Scandinavian furniture. And it dries vastly harder and tougher than the oil based varathane gloss. But the Diamond finish has one nasty drawback. It severly raises the grain of red oak- just after you've sanded it to a beautiful finish. The remedy here -and I talked this over with the varathane people at Flecto- was that you CAN do some initial light coats of the regular oil-based finish, scotchbriting between coats, vacuuming and wiping off the dust with a damp cloth, thoroughly drying after each coat, and then you CAN use the Diamond water-based varathane, as many coats as you want. The oil base against the raw wood will prevent the grain from raising and keep the warm yellowed color, while the Diamond finish adds clear incredible toughness. My stair railings done this way have lasted for 30 years of heavy use just fine. Secret: sand wash & dry between each coat except after the last wiped or brushed coat. The very very last coat can be sprayed on before the previous one is fully set. Keep the dust down and don't leave any fingerprints on your wood. Be fastidious.
Wondered what wipe on was about. I've fhinned the first coat for decades to get a tiny bit of penetration, never occurred to me to build coats that way. Gonna give it a try. Didn't know about brown paper bags either, interesting
Good tip. I bought a can of wipe on poly and after about six months and about half the can left, it started to thicken and became useless. I will be trying to make my own from now on.
Thank you, I’ve just made my first batch and it’s amazing stuff! For UK folks it’s 50/50 poly and white spirit 👍🏻 one day we’ll have the same names for things either side of the pond I hope - America using British names of course 😉😂
Wipe on poly seems analogous to the old French polishing method using shellac. I've seen the wipe on poly technique shown on numerous YT restoration videos but this is the first explanation of the actual technique - thanks!
I am an absolute beginner and this was perfect. I just bought a can of Wacom wipe on. This video was direct while being engaging. I look forward to watching more. :)
This is just what I need!
The wipe on polys are terribly expensive in my country. And the poly i use (Hudson stain and varnish) is really thick that it pulls individual hairs from the brush itself. And the final finish looks too shiny and plasticky. Thank you for sharing!
As a beginner looking to learn more, thank you so so much for this content!
To create the "thin slurry" discussed at 2:45, do you let the 75% thinned coat dry before wet sanding, or do you apply that thinned coat and use it as the lubricant for your "wet sanding?"
I've always brushed on a polyurethane finish... but this looks so much better. Must try it when I build my x carve bench.
Thanks for this video. Used the 50/50 mix for the first time ever and it went perfectly. Don’t believe I’ll ever use undiluted poly again.
Best channel out there. Ton of info in a perfectly short amount of time.
Was waiting 4 this to come, wanted to hear it from the expert, u deserve a cold one my friend👌🇧🇿
Polyurethane is OK and everyday projects but on that special wood, I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. It's goes on in micro-thin layers, not like a thick plastic coating. It's very hard and scratch-resistant. You can rub it on, brush it on, or thin it with paint thinner and spray it on. You can even wet block sand it with 1000-1500 grit paper, then polish it. Nothing is even close in shine and scratch resistance.
I found the jointer blades for my old jet jj 6 ! So glad you have a link to them. And the prices are much better than other places online I was looking
Love using this technique. Thanks dude! The brown paper bag is such a nice trick!!!
Great video!
I have a concern about storing oil based chemicals in plastic bottles. I had a reaction putting a rag with Watco on something plastic 30 plus years ago and coming home later and seeing the rag smoking. Not that all plastic bottles would react but a glass bottle might be better.
You, sir, just made my day with this video. Couldnt find a way to get rid of streaks with a brush and still a lot of product left... trying it tomorrow for sure. Thanks a lot!
I've read that the solvents in wipe on polyurethane can dissolve LDPE plastics, which is what most disposable drinking bottles are made of. I'd be concerned about contaminated finish, especially if it sits in the bottle for long or if the bottle is re-used.
I have been doing wood working for a hobby I have never did wipe on finish ever I brush on straight very thin coats, and sand in between every coat, and wipe down with tact cloth, I get glass like finish on every thing I do, then to polish up any thing that I keep I use bees wax on it.
I tried this for the first time today! WOW! I may never use regular brush on poly again! Thanks James!
What kind of rag you use.?
@@gabbierivera219 I actually just used paper towel folded into a pad. When I was done with a coat I just chucked the paper.
Great tips & none of the nauseous 3min of bullsh1t intros. This was v informative, directly to the point and v helpful.... reat stuff, I think we have a winner. Deffo a subscribe
I've been doing this for years but learned a few more things from your video - very informative. Did you mention that the shelf life of the mixed product is very short? I'm not sure about the poly since I use varnish, but with the varnish the shelf life is a week at most before it hardens in the jar.
I make my own Danish Oil by mixing equal parts polyurethane, mineral spirits, and boiled linseed oil. I think the linseed oil gives the wood a little more protection while bringing out some wood tones,
please answer my question sir, at home i only have pereffin oil, can pereffin/mineral oil replace linseed oil?
@@munitaamalia8352 I really never tried. I assume perefin is wax. I don’t know how wax would react with other ingredients. I suggest try it out on a scrap piece of wood. I may be great. Let me know.
Thanks so much man! I love the explanation. I've been using water based poly on everything. Brushing on with even a foam brush, it dries too fast leaving incredibly prominent brush marks. I've sanded, stained, and refinished the table top I'm currently working with, 5 entire times. No matter how careful I am with it, it doesn't come out well at all. I'm going to go make a mixture with some oil base and hopefully have a much better time.
I've always hated poly - I could never get one decent coat without streaking and runs. Tried this on a small project today and was stunnrd at how easy it was and how great it came out. Thanks.
Thank you so much, have been using wipe-on poly for years on my projects and always wondered if I could make it myself? Using different ratios and sanding methods were also great tips, thanks again!
You can also add a little boiled linseed oil to it if you want to add a little tint to the wood and you can't buy tru oil(Like in CA.)
James, could you discuss at some point about what kinds of finishes can be "layered" with other finishes. I hear about oil finishes and polyurethane and waxes etc going either under or over other finishes. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Which are compatible/incompatible? Can water based and oil based layering be done? Knowing very little, I would never have combined different finish types like that but I hear it talked about all the time. Thanks.
Grab a copy of Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" (ISBN-13: 978-1565235489).
He explains this very well (both as an easy set of rules and in great detail of why)
THANKS STUMPY! I'm doing this on my big murphy bed project.
Your videos are the very best of them all. Thanks!
You just made my life so much easier. Thank you
Thank you for the easy to follow directions and instructions, but more importantly the “why” behind them. Very informative for those of us who don’t do this type of thing on a regular basis. 👍🏼
This was a great video! I really like these short and informative segments. You have a very method of conveying a topic in a thorough and very concise manner. Thank you again for providing us with this content and knowlede.
Never thought to put it in a water bottle, used to put it in a small metal paint bucket which was a pain, that'll help a lot.
Will definitely make up a batch. Recently I made a Murphy Bed and used the water based Poly. It finally came out OK, but your mix would have been MUCH better, thanks! !! !!!
I appreciate your support for the Red Wings! sorry that they are not playing right now.
Excellent timing on this one; just got a gorgeous unfinished door, so you pretty much answered all of my questions.