Making A Six String Multi Scale Guitar: Testing The Finish
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- Опубликовано: 30 май 2024
- In this video, I will demonstrate how I test a possible finish for the 6-string multi-scale fan fret guitar I'm building. If you would like to help support my channel and get something cool in return, please consider the following:
www.eguitarplans.com/
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Paid Affiliate Links to the products I used in this video:
Keda Dye Kit: amzn.to/3V6eD6l
Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane Spray: amzn.to/3R9jHWr
Sutherland Welles Polymerized Tung Oil Sealer: sutherlandwelles.com/shop/ori...
Sutherland Welles Polymerized Tung Oil High Luster: sutherlandwelles.com/shop/ori... 
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4:15 "The number of finishing products that have come to market is staggering." And. 4:44 "Testing becomes paramount". OMG! No truer words have ever been spoken. As if finishing wasn't the most stressful/difficult part of woodworking in general.
Very informative video. I also liked the new camera angle.
Thank you Chris you just gave me an idea on how to make a homemade grain filler in my case I have been testing on red oak material because the grain is simalar to mahogany and basswood and I have sanded through all steps up to 180 grit but the grain keeps raising.
After I apply the boiled linseed oil and then even when I am using high build primer its not filling in the grain even when I sand the primer with 180 grit as I can still see the grain so maybe I need to mix the wood dust in with boiled linseed oil in after I apply the boiled linseed oil by itself into and let it soak then make a grain filler consisting of the wood dust of whatever wood dust the guitar body is made of mixed with boiled linseed oil and apply it like a paste let it sit and dry then apply my primer or laquar with color like grey then go through my next sanding steps again thank you for doing this video and giving me am idea on how to make my own grain filler.
And I did test and after a hour or 2 of letting the boiled linseed oil soak into my wood it does seem to allow me to apply laquar based and oil based paints with out issue even from a spray can.
And the boiled linseed oil does indeed seem to condition the wood and strengthen it and dry out some of the moisture content In ways that paint by itself does not.
And Chris that may have an effect on tone even on a solid body I did that expirement once years ago on a basswood body after removing the factory paint and repairing a, wood chip right by the jack on my old guitar I never finished the painting of it.
But I did do linseed oil primer amd basecoat duplicolor then did routes to add a neck pickup amd did emgs replaced the stock fender type saddles with graphite saddles and replaced the the original plastic nut with a graphite nut and after that the guitar stayed in tune and the tone was way better than the stock configuration but the tone even when not plugged in was, different and sounded way better.
And I think that was from the wood getting darker and conditioned from the boiled linseed oil. And the improvements with replacing the saddles on the trem.
I just think it is a combination of factors but the wood does play a role but it's how it's conditioned to along with all other factors like fretboard materials type of frets electronics and bridge systems and the type of nut.
And we need to remember what tone you like or I like might not be what someone else likes
I used those same Keda dyes back in November for some guitar inspired pens. I used some highly figured maple for the pen blanks and tried to go for a PRS style finish.
I could not get the dye to dissolve in the alcohol, even after a couple of days soaking. I read somewhere that PRS will wet the wood to raise the grain, sand off the grain, then wet the wood again and apply the water based dye to the wet wood. I guess it's supposed to help the dye soak in deeper. When I did it on the maple, I didn't notice much, if any, raised grain after the first wetting. Then I put on a lot of coats of CA glue for the topcoat - about 10 or 12 coats. So the clear coats were much thicker than any raised grain. After sanding to a very high grit and buffing, they turned out amazingly.
Keda needs some H2O to become fully soluble, pure alcohol is definitely harder to work with by a long shot.
I tested Angelus dye on raw wood before Sutherland tung oil and it works great! Just be careful, do not sand too much maple (300 max) or the dye will not penetrate as usual (depends of the piece of maple). And be careful with the tung oil sealer, it tends to dissolve the tint on maple. So I skip the sealer on tinted maple. (Or I shoot shellac to lock the color). :)
Chris, have you ever tested the Mohawk Precatalyzed Sanding Sealer in place of the spar urethane? I have seen it used to seal aniline dye in figured guitar bodies on another channel and I'm curious if you've ever worked with that material?
No, I have not used it.