I'm super late here, but if you ever try a CA finish in the future, you can use acetone as a solvent to dilute the CA. The acetone will also slightly melt the previous layers, helping them blend together. It almost acts like a shellac when dilute. Also, you should really wear your respirator while sanding the CA, especially at such high grits. That fine powder can give you some pretty nasty pneumonia. Gotta take care of yourself for the grandkid right?
I finished my acoustic with super glue about 3 years ago. It looked like glass. The guitar is my everyday player and is in a stand near a window with indirect light. Over the 3 year time frame the UV , I believe, started to turn some of the glue white, especially the glue used in the pores. I have since used a water base finish to replace it.
Dane Nichols I contacted a manufacturer about it before I used it. That was their only warning, it doesn't hold up under direct UV. I figured the guitar would be in a case most of the time but that didn't happen. I've noticed it doing the same around some of my inlay
Beautiful finish Dane. The fumes you can handle, but sanding and "flatting" in tight corners on a guitar would make it totally impractical for these ham fists. As you say- great for drop-fills and the like. Love all these videos Dane.
I can handle the fumes cause I'm already brain dead. Thanks, always good to hear from you Steve. Dan the man at Stew Mac, says, take care of the flats and the corners will take care of themselves. I've found that to be pretty solid advice.
Hi Randy, I've used CA for fills and such for a long time but I never thought about it as a complete finish until I saw BigD use it. I'm going to get to spend a lot of time with this grand kid😀.
Hi Jim, in person the shine is really amazing. Very pleased with the result but as I've mentioned in other comment responses, it's very irritating to the eyes even with a respirator. Although I'm sure I will try on the next natural wood guitar I build. Thanks for taking the time to comment bro.
DANG man! That glossed way up! I have absolutely no patience for THIS very process. I lose all interest about 5 coats in, lol. Good on ya for sticking with it. I would have a solidly plugged nose that runs like a faucet for a week after this, haha! Nice work, man! :)
Hi Jason, thanks for stopping by. It really was a simple process as finishing goes. But the fumes are deadly and will probably keep me from doing a whole guitar.
I haven't hit with anything metal but I did drag my finger nail on it pretty hard. My finger nail didn't mar it at all while if I did that to nitro it would leave a pretty nasty mark. Definitely hard stuff.
@@thiagomiguel8832 I tried this for the fingerboard and I found the results underwhelming. Watch out not to make the sound of your bass worse in the process. Check out my experience with this procedure: ruclips.net/video/ppZCmLKdoS8/видео.html&t
With it's hardness and durability, wouldn't it be good for a fretless fingerboard? I'm contemplating doing this to my Schecter Stiletto Studio 5 fretless, as an easier and perhaps better alternative to the Jaco style epoxy mod, in order to increase articulation, sustain, and "Mwah". I'm not only considering the durability and aesthetic "beauty" of such a finish, but also it's tonal and sustain properties. With this Schecter, I'm stuck with a rosewood fingerboard, when I would have preferred ebony. With this CA glue finish on the rosewood fingerboard, I would hope to add a bit more ebonyesqe sustain and top end, as well as increased fingerboard durability, accurate playability, and "Mwah".
Hi John, thanks for watching bro. I think that is a great idea and easily tried out. I assume that with a rosewood board you already use flat wound strings and my only concern with the CA is it turning white where round wounds might dig in. All in all it would be a great experiment and easily reversed if the results were less than stellar and lacked "Mwah".
Yes, on fretless, I use DiAddario Chromes flats, not just for sliding playability and fingerboard durability, but for more of a warm oldschool acoustic upright double bass timbre, but rosewood is too soft and tonally dark for my tastes. Ebony on maple is the classic combo for acoustic double basses, and for the rest of the violin family of instruments...
Thank you for your experimentation! Would you estimate how much medium CA glue would be needed to put 4 coats on a typical sized classical guitar? Wondering if I should buy in bulk, but don't want to waste as it tends to go bad in my shop. Thank you
I should tell you I didn't really have any success doing an actual guitar. but was mostly grain fill issues. I had two coats on the electric guitar I was doing and had used 2/3s of the bottle. That was just the body. Thanks for taking a look Jason.
Dane Nichols thank you for replying. This my third build, first two were CBG's so it's all pretty new. I'm using western red cedar and it's not quartersawn, I'm hoping the CA will provide some rigidity.
@@jasonfrost2294 Yeah even with quarter sawn cedar tops need to be thicker. I think the CA will help stiffen the the top but if you haven't braced it yet I would go a little taller on them and carve to suit.
I don't know bro, I have to wear a mask with both and lacquer has never burned my eyes. But CA really hurts them. Maybe not the most scientific measure. Thanks for taking a look, much appreciated.
I'm super late here, but if you ever try a CA finish in the future, you can use acetone as a solvent to dilute the CA. The acetone will also slightly melt the previous layers, helping them blend together. It almost acts like a shellac when dilute.
Also, you should really wear your respirator while sanding the CA, especially at such high grits. That fine powder can give you some pretty nasty pneumonia. Gotta take care of yourself for the grandkid right?
Thanks for taking a look. Good advice.
Actually, it is a lot easier to just use wet sanding paper to keep the ground up residue out of the air.
@@Noone-of-your-Business you're not wrong.
I finished my acoustic with super glue about 3 years ago. It looked like glass. The guitar is my everyday player and is in a stand near a window with indirect light. Over the 3 year time frame the UV , I believe, started to turn some of the glue white, especially the glue used in the pores. I have since used a water base finish to replace it.
Kenny Grisham, thanks for taking a look. That's the first I've heard of it turning white with UV. Good to know, thank you.
Dane Nichols I contacted a manufacturer about it before I used it. That was their only warning, it doesn't hold up under direct UV. I figured the guitar would be in a case most of the time but that didn't happen. I've noticed it doing the same around some of my inlay
Thanks again Kenny.
Beautiful finish Dane. The fumes you can handle, but sanding and "flatting" in tight corners on a guitar would make it totally impractical for these ham fists. As you say- great for drop-fills and the like. Love all these videos Dane.
I can handle the fumes cause I'm already brain dead. Thanks, always good to hear from you Steve. Dan the man at Stew Mac, says, take care of the flats and the corners will take care of themselves. I've found that to be pretty solid advice.
good experiment Dane! I use it for drop fills and small repairs, it buffed up quiet nicely! great to have time with grand kids! :)
Hi Randy, I've used CA for fills and such for a long time but I never thought about it as a complete finish until I saw BigD use it. I'm going to get to spend a lot of time with this grand kid😀.
Susie Gardner uses it for finish, I don't know if you watch her channel but shes made it buff to a high gloss and really looked nice!
Yes Randy I've been following her for better than a year now. I gave her a shout out in part 1 of these vids. Thanks brother
Wow this is really interesting.. I had know idea how glossy it could get! I'd definitely be wearing a face mask during this process
Hi Jim, in person the shine is really amazing. Very pleased with the result but as I've mentioned in other comment responses, it's very irritating to the eyes even with a respirator. Although I'm sure I will try on the next natural wood guitar I build. Thanks for taking the time to comment bro.
DANG man! That glossed way up! I have absolutely no patience for THIS very process. I lose all interest about 5 coats in, lol. Good on ya for sticking with it. I would have a solidly plugged nose that runs like a faucet for a week after this, haha! Nice work, man! :)
Hi Jason, thanks for stopping by. It really was a simple process as finishing goes. But the fumes are deadly and will probably keep me from doing a whole guitar.
Quicker and better than Truoil. Harder, more durable, quicker, more glossier, just as thin and repels everything.
Good video Dane!!!!!))) It looks good but you would need to be careful with it But like you said it might be good for repairs!!! 🎸🎸🎸👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😊
Thanks for checking it Steve.🎸🎸
Very cool. I just wonder is it so brittle that it would chip if you tap it with something metal?
I haven't hit with anything metal but I did drag my finger nail on it pretty hard. My finger nail didn't mar it at all while if I did that to nitro it would leave a pretty nasty mark. Definitely hard stuff.
Great, a helper! Lol
Hey Ken, yep she sweep my shop and did a good job too.
Amazing, I'll try it with an freetless bass wich I'm planing to convert
Thiago Miguel, that would really harden a finger board. Don’t forget to use flats on your fretless.
@@jonahguitarguy Yes, I'm planing to use flats, as a complete freetless experience :)
I'll let you know about when I finish
@@thiagomiguel8832, cool, I'd like to know how it turns out.
@@thiagomiguel8832 I tried this for the fingerboard and I found the results underwhelming. Watch out not to make the sound of your bass worse in the process. Check out my experience with this procedure: ruclips.net/video/ppZCmLKdoS8/видео.html&t
With it's hardness and durability, wouldn't it be good for a fretless fingerboard?
I'm contemplating doing this to my Schecter Stiletto Studio 5 fretless, as an easier and perhaps better alternative to the Jaco style epoxy mod, in order to increase articulation, sustain, and "Mwah".
I'm not only considering the durability and aesthetic "beauty" of such a finish, but also it's tonal and sustain properties. With this Schecter, I'm stuck with a rosewood fingerboard, when I would have preferred ebony. With this CA glue finish on the rosewood fingerboard, I would hope to add a bit more ebonyesqe sustain and top end, as well as increased fingerboard durability, accurate playability, and "Mwah".
Hi John, thanks for watching bro. I think that is a great idea and easily tried out. I assume that with a rosewood board you already use flat wound strings and my only concern with the CA is it turning white where round wounds might dig in. All in all it would be a great experiment and easily reversed if the results were less than stellar and lacked "Mwah".
Yes, on fretless, I use DiAddario Chromes flats, not just for sliding playability and fingerboard durability, but for more of a warm oldschool acoustic upright double bass timbre, but rosewood is too soft and tonally dark for my tastes. Ebony on maple is the classic combo for acoustic double basses, and for the rest of the violin family of instruments...
I can't see a down side give it a try. I used titebond Medium in the test and am using the Gluboost fill n finish on a refin right now.
Clapton's fingerboard are CA.
Thank you for your experimentation! Would you estimate how much medium CA glue would be needed to put 4 coats on a typical sized classical guitar? Wondering if I should buy in bulk, but don't want to waste as it tends to go bad in my shop. Thank you
I should tell you I didn't really have any success doing an actual guitar. but was mostly grain fill issues. I had two coats on the electric guitar I was doing and had used 2/3s of the bottle. That was just the body. Thanks for taking a look Jason.
Dane Nichols thank you for replying. This my third build, first two were CBG's so it's all pretty new. I'm using western red cedar and it's not quartersawn, I'm hoping the CA will provide some rigidity.
@@jasonfrost2294 Yeah even with quarter sawn cedar tops need to be thicker. I think the CA will help stiffen the the top but if you haven't braced it yet I would go a little taller on them and carve to suit.
Did you consider thinner vs medium CA for different coats ...?
I did consider it but I thought that the med would build quicker so I went with it. I appreciate you taking a look Ian.
seems like a lot of work for a test
Nitro is far worse than CA glue.
I don't know bro, I have to wear a mask with both and lacquer has never burned my eyes. But CA really hurts them. Maybe not the most scientific measure. Thanks for taking a look, much appreciated.