Thank u Gary your Video on 6hp26 valve body overhaul was a great help my 09 genesis shifts as good as any beamer or rover your info was extremely helpful as this was my fist valve body overhaul.
Love your thorough videos! Been watching for a while and as a Mercedes guy, definitely interested in any 722.906's that come through your shop. I have 2 of them and both exhibit seldom hard shifts from 1-2 and the other 2-3 when cold. Thank you again for the thorough tear downs a rebuilds, we appreciate your explanations of the work that you put out there for all of us.
@@GaryFerraro I had done the surface/diy level shift adaptation resets (key: pos 2, hold gas pedal, key off, wait..) that one can do without a deeper level software tool (Autel, Mercedes DAS etc.), but have just recently gained access to a DAS system. One of the 722.9's had the conductor plate & speed sensors replaced at dealer already, but still has its' random hard shift from 2-3 when cold. My assumption was maybe it was one of the solenoids or other components. I have also read that a faulty wheel speed sensor may also be the culprit. Wondering if you have ever found the true culprit of this one, seems to a popular issue in the MB forums.
@@Innova_1979 On certain cars, the wheel sensors will make speed sensor codes show up on the transmission, but if you do have a wheel sensor code stored in the TCM i would fix that
Awesome videos! Your knowledge is much appreciated. I have a 08 RR with the 4.4L engine. As I was driving it, the transmission slipped completely, meaning it would not move in any gear, including reverse. I replaced the TQ and it ran fine for about 15 miles and then slipped completely again. Any suggestions on the cause of this? Magnet in pan only had a few slivers of metal. It was serviced about 10k miles ago.
To be fair, if the filter fell out, it wouldn't work at all.. But I do agree, when you change the pan, you have to get the correct filter to match... Which would have little plastic stand-offs on the filter, to push against the pan.. It's the little details that kill the DIY guys. lol
Thanks Gary for sharing your knowledge. I am having trouble with my BMW E61 an its 6HP28. Last year the fluid was changed. As well as the bridge-seal, the four sleeve-seals, the dampers inside the mechatronic, the separatorplate of the mechatronic and of course the pan with filter. Since the repair there is a decrease of engine-rpm during the second gear. When i go uphill or accelerate a little bit stronger during second gear, the rpm drops about 200-300 rounds at around 2000rpm and you can feel it in your back, that there is a stop of forwardmovement for about a second. If you would not know, it almost feels like a harsh additonal gear change. Is this the lockup-clutch of the torque-converter and why is this so "feelable" since the fluidchange. Is there something i can do? It is not undriveable but all the other gear-changes are almost perfect and so the otherwise comfortable car is a bit unpleasant to drive. And i am a bit concerned to cause wear or damage. The adaption values have been reset. Thank you.
Just a thought but instead of guessing that "maybe" the filter is falling out from the seal, why not install the filter correctly, put your H gauge on the rails and measure the distance. Then measure the depth of the pan. This will verify whether or not your thought is true or not. Maybe the filter was just not installed correctly originally.
@@GaryFerraro I am not saying it WASNT a filter problem. Its obvious it was. What I AM saying, is that if you do the measurements as I suggested, that will verify if there is indeed enough space for the filter to fall down on its own or if it was simply installed wrong in the first place.
Hi Gary. Im ready to buy the bushing kit to a LR3 2007. I seen lots of your videos on the ZF6HP26 repair. Should I buy the OMEGA Bushing kit or the DURABOND Bushing kit? Thanks in advance
Hello I wanna ask about porsche carrera 2013 pdk transmission have problem some times showing message reverse problem in dashboard you can help and what the problem in this transmission
Gary, enjoying the video. Can I ask, I am having trouble locating a supplier in the UK who can supply OE solenoids for a ZF5HP19, BMW 330. Can you recommend a supplier even if it’s shipping international ?
Great video, thank you! In other videos you took the Sonnax Bushingkit in this video the Dura Bond. What's the difference and which kit do you recommend?
Hello Gary, I've recently found out a strange thing with my 6HP26 in E66 750Li BMW, and I hope you can answer my question. So I was fighting with very annoying vibrations - at every speed. It wasn't dependent on the gear I was in, or if I was accelerating or not. These vibrations were present even when I switched to N while driving (I know I shouldn't, it was just a test). I've excluded every other possibility - the drive shaft, rear and front suspension, wheels etc. What my friend has found is that these vibrations seems to originate from the back of the transmission - we've checked it while the car was up on the lift. There's a play on the output flange, though I don't know if it's normal or not. Am I right to assume that ball bearing or the needle sleeve has broken and it is causing these vibrations to appear? If so, I assume there's no other way but to teardown the whole transmission?
@@GaryFerraro Ok, it appears my comment was deleted. I'll try again to post it - in the album there are two pictures and one short gif my friend has made during his inspection. Please replace 'dot' and 'slash' and remove any whitespaces so that a link can be created, and please check it if you can. As far as I know - there was both axial and radial play. imgur dot com slash a slash NxtGNyp
@@GaryFerraro So this behavior is not normal at all, this play at the output shaft I mean? It's strange, I can't seem to find a reason for these vibrations for almost three years. No play at all in the suspension, no problems with front or rear rotors, tested on five different set of wheels - vibrations are present all the time. Nothing seems to make these stop. I had my torque converter repaired, I've done transmission oil replacement and all the small stuff inside, seals, new oil pan - nothing. Adaptions reset does not affect these vibrations. The only thing out of place is that play in the output flange/shaft. To change the ball bearing and needle sleeve I still have to teardown the whole transmission, right? Or just remove the output flange and it's possible to do it from the back of the tranny?
What is the average cost to rebuild that transmission I have land rover lr3 , my codes p0735, po7036, also when you put in manual mode it dose nothing , when In Gear feels like it don't shift stays in first gear ,
@@GaryFerraro thank you! I've already started stripping mine down today and found my e gear friction plates very low. This I'm hoping was the reason it was slipping under hard acceleration and putting it into limp mode. I had a incorrect gear ratio code on this aswell. Any ideas? Is their anything I need to markup to make sure it goes back in the correct orientation? Also once I've done the overhaul do you know the correct procedure on filling it up with oil and setting it up? I'm also concerned about making sure the torque converter is seated correctly when re-installing to the car. I'd hate to smash the pump...... Thank you Sir
@@poleypops E clutch does wear out, i would do the rear stator bushing as well. Steels are the same both sides, doesn't mattter how you put them. When oiling up the trans, 1st fill is with engine off, fill it til it runs out the fill/check plug. 2nd fil, start the car and fil til it runs out, engine running, use lifeguard 6. as far as the converter, did you look to see how far it was in before you took it off the trans?
Love your knowledge on these ZF trans. I have a 03 S type r with the lurch issue. Pretty Used to the lurch now, I’ve own the car since 2016. Ive fluid change with ZF6 an Pentosin, changed the sleeves an the black piece with no change in lurch. Also the car shifts suck when engine cold. There isn’t any trans codes. I live in the DC area but would love to drive the car there to have you rebuild the trans if need. Worst case Scenario what does a rebuild cost on these ZF6hp26? I’m serious. I can email you if that would be better at gaining info…. Car check out my car on my page as well, love this thing want her shifting at 100%
Hi Gary, I understand you have a shop in Burlingame is that correct? Is there a way I can contact you email, text, phone? I'm having issues with my 6HP 26 and I'd like to get your input if I can please. Thanks for your time.
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Thank u Gary your Video on 6hp26 valve body overhaul was a great help my 09 genesis shifts as good as any beamer or rover your info was extremely helpful as this was my fist valve body overhaul.
Thanks Gary, it’s like transmission university for me. I was able to troubleshoot and rebuild 2 transmissions so far and you are my professor.
Thank you, glad i could help
I always enjoy your Sunday teardowns. Thank you Gary.
Thanks for watchimg
Thank you for your time Gary,I always enjoy your video`s.
Thanks
Love your thorough videos! Been watching for a while and as a Mercedes guy, definitely interested in any 722.906's that come through your shop. I have 2 of them and both exhibit seldom hard shifts from 1-2 and the other 2-3 when cold. Thank you again for the thorough tear downs a rebuilds, we appreciate your explanations of the work that you put out there for all of us.
have you tried resetting adapts?
@@GaryFerraro I had done the surface/diy level shift adaptation resets (key: pos 2, hold gas pedal, key off, wait..) that one can do without a deeper level software tool (Autel, Mercedes DAS etc.), but have just recently gained access to a DAS system.
One of the 722.9's had the conductor plate & speed sensors replaced at dealer already, but still has its' random hard shift from 2-3 when cold. My assumption was maybe it was one of the solenoids or other components. I have also read that a faulty wheel speed sensor may also be the culprit. Wondering if you have ever found the true culprit of this one, seems to a popular issue in the MB forums.
@@Innova_1979 what is the year make and model of the car?
@@GaryFerraro 2006 Benz E350
@@Innova_1979 On certain cars, the wheel sensors will make speed sensor codes show up on the transmission, but if you do have a wheel sensor code stored in the TCM i would fix that
Always love seeing transmissions that I own. I have this one in a 08 bmw 550i
Thanks for watching
Love your videos, Thank you so much for doing what you do. Do you have a video on the Re assembly of ZF6HP26
Not Yet but hoping to do one soon
I second Mr Montoya
Awesome videos! Your knowledge is much appreciated. I have a 08 RR with the 4.4L engine. As I was driving it, the transmission slipped completely, meaning it would not move in any gear, including reverse. I replaced the TQ and it ran fine for about 15 miles and then slipped completely again. Any suggestions on the cause of this? Magnet in pan only had a few slivers of metal. It was serviced about 10k miles ago.
Thanks Gary
Which is better fords 6 speed or fords new 10 speed?
Great video as always
Thanks
To be fair, if the filter fell out, it wouldn't work at all.. But I do agree, when you change the pan, you have to get the correct filter to match... Which would have little plastic stand-offs on the filter, to push against the pan.. It's the little details that kill the DIY guys. lol
Some DIY guys are more qualified…
Thanks Gary for sharing your knowledge.
I am having trouble with my BMW E61 an its 6HP28. Last year the fluid was changed. As well as the bridge-seal, the four sleeve-seals, the dampers inside the mechatronic, the separatorplate of the mechatronic and of course the pan with filter.
Since the repair there is a decrease of engine-rpm during the second gear. When i go uphill or accelerate a little bit stronger during second gear, the rpm drops about 200-300 rounds at around 2000rpm and you can feel it in your back, that there is a stop of forwardmovement for about a second. If you would not know, it almost feels like a harsh additonal gear change. Is this the lockup-clutch of the torque-converter and why is this so "feelable" since the fluidchange. Is there something i can do? It is not undriveable but all the other gear-changes are almost perfect and so the otherwise comfortable car is a bit unpleasant to drive. And i am a bit concerned to cause wear or damage. The adaption values have been reset.
Thank you.
How long have you driven since adapts reset? Any codes present in engine or trans?
Unreal the difference in how all the insides just pull out compared to older style transmissions.
Just a thought but instead of guessing that "maybe" the filter is falling out from the seal, why not install the filter correctly, put your H gauge on the rails and measure the distance. Then measure the depth of the pan. This will verify whether or not your thought is true or not. Maybe the filter was just not installed correctly originally.
From the symptoms certainly felt like a filter problem to me. verified that when i took the pan down
@@GaryFerraro I am not saying it WASNT a filter problem. Its obvious it was. What I AM saying, is that if you do the measurements as I suggested, that will verify if there is indeed enough space for the filter to fall down on its own or if it was simply installed wrong in the first place.
The aftermarket filter needs to have a "retainer" to keep it seated in place to be used effectively.
@@edwardhrvoich1786 Makes sense. That would make it an installation error, not a product deficiency.
@@edwardhrvoich1786 That will work
Hi Gary. Im ready to buy the bushing kit to a LR3 2007. I seen lots of your videos on the ZF6HP26 repair. Should I buy the OMEGA Bushing kit or the DURABOND Bushing kit? Thanks in advance
My first choice is Durabond, 2nd choice is Omega
Thanks a million😀.
Hello I wanna ask about porsche carrera 2013 pdk transmission have problem some times showing message reverse problem in dashboard you can help and what the problem in this transmission
Gary, enjoying the video. Can I ask, I am having trouble locating a supplier in the UK who can supply OE solenoids for a ZF5HP19, BMW 330. Can you recommend a supplier even if it’s shipping international ?
Great video, thank you! In other videos you took the Sonnax Bushingkit in this video the Dura Bond. What's the difference and which kit do you recommend?
I always have used Durabond but at the moment they are not available, parts are getting harder to get
Hello Gary, I've recently found out a strange thing with my 6HP26 in E66 750Li BMW, and I hope you can answer my question. So I was fighting with very annoying vibrations - at every speed. It wasn't dependent on the gear I was in, or if I was accelerating or not. These vibrations were present even when I switched to N while driving (I know I shouldn't, it was just a test). I've excluded every other possibility - the drive shaft, rear and front suspension, wheels etc. What my friend has found is that these vibrations seems to originate from the back of the transmission - we've checked it while the car was up on the lift. There's a play on the output flange, though I don't know if it's normal or not. Am I right to assume that ball bearing or the needle sleeve has broken and it is causing these vibrations to appear? If so, I assume there's no other way but to teardown the whole transmission?
so the flange moves up and down, is the seal leaking?
@@GaryFerraro Ok, it appears my comment was deleted. I'll try again to post it - in the album there are two pictures and one short gif my friend has made during his inspection. Please replace 'dot' and 'slash' and remove any whitespaces so that a link can be created, and please check it if you can. As far as I know - there was both axial and radial play.
imgur dot com slash a slash NxtGNyp
@@Plexi36 You can take the flange off to see if anything is bad, i have never seen this on the ZF6HP26
@@GaryFerraro So this behavior is not normal at all, this play at the output shaft I mean? It's strange, I can't seem to find a reason for these vibrations for almost three years. No play at all in the suspension, no problems with front or rear rotors, tested on five different set of wheels - vibrations are present all the time. Nothing seems to make these stop. I had my torque converter repaired, I've done transmission oil replacement and all the small stuff inside, seals, new oil pan - nothing. Adaptions reset does not affect these vibrations. The only thing out of place is that play in the output flange/shaft.
To change the ball bearing and needle sleeve I still have to teardown the whole transmission, right? Or just remove the output flange and it's possible to do it from the back of the tranny?
@@Plexi36 I believe it has to come apart, but maybe take the flange out first, really haven't seen one bad yet
What is the average cost to rebuild that transmission I have land rover lr3 , my codes p0735, po7036, also when you put in manual mode it dose nothing , when In Gear feels like it don't shift stays in first gear ,
there are about 5,000ish
So it's about same price as buying a remanufactured ready for install , what state u in in in Texas
@@jamesray3920 Im in New York
Great video ! I hope you'll let us know how everything goes once it's reinstalled. Thanks! And what does one of these units weigh?
Trans is about 250 pounds maybe, Trans worked real nice, car was picked up already
@@GaryFerraroThanks & Congrats!
Good ! Very good
Hi is this the same gearbox that is in my discovery 3? Thank you
What year is your car
@@GaryFerraro 2005 :) thanks Gary
@@poleypops Yes, ZF6HP26
@@GaryFerraro thank you! I've already started stripping mine down today and found my e gear friction plates very low. This I'm hoping was the reason it was slipping under hard acceleration and putting it into limp mode.
I had a incorrect gear ratio code on this aswell. Any ideas?
Is their anything I need to markup to make sure it goes back in the correct orientation?
Also once I've done the overhaul do you know the correct procedure on filling it up with oil and setting it up? I'm also concerned about making sure the torque converter is seated correctly when re-installing to the car. I'd hate to smash the pump......
Thank you Sir
@@poleypops E clutch does wear out, i would do the rear stator bushing as well. Steels are the same both sides, doesn't mattter how you put them. When oiling up the trans, 1st fill is with engine off, fill it til it runs out the fill/check plug. 2nd fil, start the car and fil til it runs out, engine running, use lifeguard 6. as far as the converter, did you look to see how far it was in before you took it off the trans?
What is the reason to replace the Torque Converter? does it get wear?
A brand new trans and an old converter; can foul up the new trans with the debris in the old converter.
So it seems the trans may have been fine if they didn't try to save money. If they did the Zf pan when they serviced it chances are it is still fine.
Thinkthe bushings were worn out for the problems in higher gears
@@GaryFerraro concur but what came first, worn bushing or the great idea to get rid of the plastic pan with a filter that falls out?
Why does the separate filter and Steel pan have that issue? What does ZF say about it?
Aftermarket parts
hello can you please share torgue specs for zf6hp26 oil pump hub torque specs. Stungling to find it online
I do 100 inch pounds
@@GaryFerraro thank you
I have torque 10nm so i hope is hold , Close to Specs
Love your knowledge on these ZF trans. I have a 03 S type r with the lurch issue. Pretty Used to the lurch now, I’ve own the car since 2016. Ive fluid change with ZF6 an Pentosin, changed the sleeves an the black piece with no change in lurch. Also the car shifts suck when engine cold. There isn’t any trans codes. I live in the DC area but would love to drive the car there to have you rebuild the trans if need. Worst case Scenario what does a rebuild cost on these ZF6hp26? I’m serious. I can email you if that would be better at gaining info…. Car check out my car on my page as well, love this thing want her shifting at 100%
Hi Gary, I understand you have a shop in Burlingame is that correct? Is there a way I can contact you email, text, phone? I'm having issues with my 6HP 26 and I'd like to get your input if I can please. Thanks for your time.
I'm In New York