Victor's ZF6HP26
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- Опубликовано: 14 ноя 2020
- Victor had the car transported from Minnesota for me to overhaul the transmission, had problems in the higher gears due to a worn rear stator bushing. At the end i show the adaption values on the scan tool, the E clutch was 750, then after reset was zero. Job went very smooth and trans worked great. Thanks Vic.
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This is definitely a Master Technician, the man knows his way around a gearbox.
Thank you. love it. Simple explaining, Great.
Good evening Gary! I have been watching just about every episode of every transmission that you have torn down and rebuilt! Your work is truly an awesome work of art. We are getting ready to rebuild our 2003 6 hp26 in our Jaguar and are hoping for good results with the parts that we have. Thanks for all you do
any questions just let me know
gsferraro@yahoo.com
@@GaryFerraro thank you so much Gary!
Thanks for sharing, helps straighten out the learning curve. Found you when we were doing a 4R100
Cool, Thanks for watching
@@GaryFerraro Hi, how much cost rebuild transmission on 2007 bmw 750LI ??? (problem is sometimes stuck in 3 gear and message pop up '''DRIVE MODERATELY'' ) after restart car is back to normal...Only message or code i have is about EGS electronic sleeve, need to be replaced ...can this be problem ? If not ,how much cost rebuild this trans.smision anyway ???
Thanx.
@@akvabullet There should be a code present, can you get the Transmission scanned and let me know the code number and definition
Great stuff, gotta love these videos. 👌👌👌
Hey Gary amazing video! I just got an 06 bmw 750 Li and it threw up a P17E5, so I’ve been using your videos as guidance on how to solve it.
What is the definition of that code
@@GaryFerraro I couldn’t get that code to show up again. Just got one I believe was 4F8A 4-5 gear ratio monitoring
Actually I was wrong I don’t think it said 4-5 gear ratio monitoring, just the 4F8A
@@rickhandlin7676 That is what the codes is, You probably have a worn out rear stator bushing
@@GaryFerraro That’s good to know. I planned on doing a full valve body overhaul like you showed in one of your newer videos, but I’ll be sure to include the stator bushing in my repairs. Thanks again for the replies and perspective, you’re a hero.
Hey Gary, thanks for what you do! I drive a Hyundai Genesis with a ZF6HP26, and your videos have been a massive help in building a deeper understanding of automatic transmissions for me. I’ve heard that you shouldn’t replace ATF after a certain point because as the clutches wear, they start to rely on the material floating in the fluid for proper operation. I’m wondering if this is true, or more of an “urban legend”? Is it better to just replace the clutch packs as well when you flush old ATF?
NYC job
Gary, grind that mushroom off your impact bit driver, your scaring me, i was squinting when you were disassembling the pump. 🤕🔧🇺🇸😁
LOL, Thanks.
You can understand why transmission places charge you handsomely for a rebuild
Nice job! Thanks for taking the time to share. Have you rebuilt the ZF8HP45? How does it compare to the ZF6hp transmission?
Built a bunch of those, not a bad trans to work on, much different the the 6 speed, 4 sets of planetary gears
Hi Gary! Always awesome to watch your videos, was wondering your thoughts on the separate filter and pan kit that Atlantic British sells, in order to change the trans filter on my Range Rover I'd have to undo engine mounts and raise the engine to get enough clearance to install a new one piece filter and pan. The Kit they sell would save me all that labour (as I would be doing it myself). Forums say it's good and doesn't cause any issues but I'd rather go by your opinion. Keep up your good work!
Thats common to do that on the Rovers, it does save labor, you should be fine
@@GaryFerraro Come on dude where are the after clutch fill times? After the re adapt! What did the 750 improve too?
@@jmp0428 At that point he picked up the car, but i would say around 200
Is that dewalt a hammer drill? seems to work pretty good taking out the valve body screws or is that just the way you do it? LOL great job, just did Solenoids in my Rover, open c circuit
great as well!
Thank you
Got a question for you Gary I have a Land Rover Discovery 3 with a ZF6HP26 it jumps in to first and on idle you have to hold it hard on the breaks the IDD tool say engine is on full load but when you release the break it wont go you have to wait till its moving before you can accelerate once moving its all good
Hi Gary, thanks so much for making these videos. The attention to detail is extremely helpful for a DIY guy like myself. I am going to rebuild the valve body, replace the solenoids and bridge seal etc., and do a new filter and fluid in my 6HP26 this weekend mostly because of what I've learned from your channel.
Can you comment on towing with one of these transmissions at higher mileages? Mine in my Range Rover's got 192,000 miles on it and I'm planning on towing about 5300 lbs ~10 times a year. Is this a fools errand or will I be ok if the trans is functioning properly?
What is the tow capacity for your car, Towing may cause extra heat and possible converter slip
@@GaryFerraro The towing capacity is rated at 7700 lbs. I'll just have to try it and see what happens. I'm hoping the valve body rebuild solves my issues with shift quality.
@@Matt-xx8mt Do you have any gauge on the car were you can see trans temp?
Hey Gary, I enjoy these in depth videos, I have a 6hp28 in a 335d (diesel) its holding the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts until around 3k rpms when under normal driving for some reason, I'm going to do fluid change, sleeves, bridge seal, and solenoids to see if it cures it. If not, what would the cost be for a full rebuild on a 6hp28, it's a rather powerful diesel around 450hp or so.
Thanks again
Hi, i have same problem , do u fix it ?
Hi Gary, I have been watching lots of your videos and have gained some confidence in maybe diagnosing what is happening to my transmission, I own a 2004 Jaguar XKR with the 6HP26. I have the squawk sound/kind of like a thud too at around 4th to 5th I think and when I'm going real slow and begin to accelerate off again (say at an intersection) it slams into 1st from 2nd I think, I can drive very carefully to avoid that generally by being gentle. The squawk only happens when she's hot I think. I'm going to buy the parts and attempt to repair the trans myself but I don't have access to tools to reset my adaptations at the end of the process.
I'm guessing based on my research that I will need to replace the bridge seal and those 4 tube seals only - based on my symptoms. I need a filter too and fluid. Is there something other I can do at the end besides having to reset the adaptations using the special software to teach the trans to relearn? I haven't been able to even do a scan for codes. I do have an OBDII tool but I don't think it's up to par with scanning the trans.
Can I just drive her around like that and it might relearn slowly? I live in New Zealand and buying parts is proving difficult, I do have to look to the US for parts online. I plan on buying 7 quarts of Mercon SP ( I can't afford Lifeguard 6) through Rockauto and the filter off Amazon maybe but it won't be genuine ZF as they seem to cost lots more. I heard most aftermarket ones seem to fit ok. I tried Rockauto and found one that has the entire kit including a bridge seal and the 4 tubes plus connector but it's just run out of stock! This one I think is suitable www.ebay.com.au/itm/263958285518 but they say it's BMW only - I just need to make sure it's not the E brake type right? Any suggestions would be fantastic. Kind regards. I forgot to mention I do not get any warnings or limp home modes on my dash so I guess my trans isn't too bad in general.
Just to confirm you have a plastic pan? If so, they are all the same. Had problem in the past with aftermarket pan/filters, so be careful there. If you still have the squawk on the shift, best way to get rid of that is adding a Posi additive, this will make the clutch pack more slippery and should make the squawk go away. 2-1 downshift bang is fairly common, i have traced that to bushing wear, solenoids or valvebody problem
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for your response. Yes, mine is a plastic pan. Do you think changing out the pan/filter + bridge seal and those other tube/seals will not help the 2-1 downshift bang?
I wish you were in the west coast,, I am tempted to drive al the way to N Y C just so you can rebuild my transmission! lol
wow, that would be a road trip, you have a ZF6HP26 Trans?
@@GaryFerraro I have Zf6hp19 ..is a 2006 BMW 330i. and the reason why I would like it to be rebuild is because it seems that that transs was only fixed for that year ... I try to replace a trans on a mother car ( diferent car ) 2006 bmw 325i with ZF6HP19 .. with GA6 L45R from 2007 328i and it did not fit because the output shaft is to wide and log and the torque converter is diferent all so ....so there is not many used trans for my favorite 330i available
@@SanDoval201970 Well, not so sure go would go used on that, the tcm's are inside the trans
@@GaryFerraro I learn how to reprogram retrofit all most any module on E90 and or I can with the help of a remote prog
But any way thank you so much for your vids
You sure know them all Gary, i see why you're so busy. I didnt know a TC could be 'rebuilt' but all i have even see were the older US cars like 70's and 80's vehicles, i am sure thats an EXPENSIVE job. The late model Jeeps also or did have a built into the pan filter so a trans service between the new pan and the 50.00 dollar a quart fluid plus dealership labor sure add up so even thought gas mileage is improved from something like my 96 GC 5.2 when maintenance time rolls around its expensive, i get the 6 quarts of Mopar fluid, filter and Mopar pan gasket for about 100.00.
Stupid question but with the convertor do they cut it open then reweld it? Externally the convertor looks the same as any other one i have seen
Yes, my original get rebuilt, they cut it open rebuild, weld it back and balance it,
Gary, whenever you overhaul valve bodies, do you completely disassemble all the springs, retainers, valves, etc? Or, do you just take the assembly and clean it and ensure the valves move freely?
I just make sure the valves move free in the bore, if not then i will take that one out
can you please do a video on a zf 4hp22 bmw gearbox its a e28 525e thank you very much
btw, love your channel
Somehow, your videos are overexposed as of late. Have to turn screen brightness way down.
Otherwise, it's prime entertainment, and informative.
Thank you
Those transmissions go into safe mode to prevent damage to the clutches. All the problem was is the solenoids.
bushings are a big problem too
I was hoping you could make sense of this for me. 2008 535xiT, fluid change w/ all 4 Mechantronics gaskets and sleeves replaced, also a recent engine change. Car still feels a shudder in 2nd, slight uphill, light throttle...while WOT it slams pretty hard on 2-3...while cruising it sometimes feels like the trans is lightly coming on and off. I followed adaptations procedures (25% throttle up to 4th, 40% up 6th, coast to 25mph, stop, repeat at least 9x) yet condition still exits...please help :/
Before resetting adaptations -
Clutch fill pressures:
Clutch A: 6.0
Clutch B: -99.0
Clutch C: -260.0
Clutch D: 215
Clutch E: 100
Rapid fill pressures:
Clutch A: 13.0
Clutch B: 9.0
Clutch C: 3.0
Clutch D: 0.0
Clutch E: 138.0
After resetting adaptations -
Clutch fill pressures:
Clutch A: 8.0
Clutch B: 7.0
Clutch C: 0.0
Clutch D: 225.0
Clutch E: 0.0
Rapid fill times:
Clutch A: 18.0
Clutch B: 0.0
Clutch C: 0.0
Clutch D: 0.0
Clutch E: 0.0
Gary, thanks for everything. I did have an e-clutch code on my 2012 750LI and I took my 6HP26 off and replaced 3-4 bushings in the front section. Now everything is back on and car is running fine (so far) BUT it is leaking ATF from somewhere in the bellhousing down to square hole. I remember the front seal is soft (but I shuffled the TC in and out many times) and I did notice the plastic rings on the pump bolt washers was brittle and cracked up. I did not replace them. Where would the leak from? 1. ATF overfilled? 2. front seal damaged by TC in and out too much? 3. The plastic rings on pump bolt washers? 4. the big o-ring around the pump?
Yes, either front seal or small or large pump o-ring, if you didn't take the pump apart then the small o-ring is probably ok
@@GaryFerraro With your guidance, I have saved my 2012 BMW 750LI. Thank you very much.
@@derekkchung Your very welcome
Awesome job. How many miles on the car?
93K
Hello from Europe, Austria. I like your video
I have a BMW E61 525d with a ZF6hp26 gearbox, in 6 gear 100 km/h a have a small and constant interruption in constant driving. Like something is slipping or TQ disengage.
This happens only when gearbox oil is 80 degree. Sometimes drive for days without this symptom.
Changed TQ new, valve-body repaired new plate, 6 small pistons new, 6 valves new. Oil pump busing new, clutch E and D bushing and friction disk new. Everything is perfect just the small bump in 6 gear 90-110 km/h on higher speed is ok. No fault codes, adaptations in range.
Have you met these symptoms? Have advice for me?
What is the blue grease like material you placed on the solenoids bases before fitting to valve body?
Transgel, the grease melts when it gets hot
Hi - My 6HP26 (in a Maserati Quattroporte 2007) will sometimes shift up TWO gears when it should only go up one (based on revs). Happens in Manual mode and Auto. Any idea? Is that Solenoids?
I have a spare box from a newer car - can I just change the valvebody, and Solenoids and keep the original Mechatronics so the computer won't complain? 60k miles on the box, recent oil and filter change. Thanks, great videos
Not sure, do you know if any codes are present?
@@GaryFerraro no codes - bringing to shop tomorrow to see if they can get anything on a live scan. it's pretty easy to replicate.
Hello! I have a 2011 BMW 335d which has the zf6hp28 and I believe I have bushing wear induced clutch slip on the E clutch. Only happens in 5th gear. I’ve tried replacing my valve body and all new solenoids, so that’s what is pushing me towards the bushing.
My question is how much this job you charge to do, labor wise.
And why the exedy clutches over the ZF ones? Might’ve missed it in the video
Exedy is OE, Very good product. Are you in the NY area? After solenoid replacement, did you reset shift adapts?
@@GaryFerraro I’m not, I’m in California unfortunately. And I didn’t reset the adaptions, I just drove the car around for around a month. Every clutch but E the adaption values went down significantly. But E went from 750 to 743, but it still causes slip under heavier throttle
@@Driven.ByVlad At 750, either the bushing is worn or the E clutch is no good or both, Trans would have to come out for sure
@@GaryFerraro yah, I’m planning on it. I’m just wondering the cost you’d charge for a labor on the rebuild of the trans if it was dropped off at the shop with parts, my 335d is modified and is making 600wtq and I’ve done around 270+ 1/4 runs at that power level, so I wouldn’t be surprised if it was the clutch and bushing. Only thing that makes me think it’s probably mostly the bushing is because 5th gear is the only one that slips. (Not super knowledgeable about these auto’s, just light knowledge)
You didn’t say anything about the color of the B and C clutches-are they made of a darker material or were they dark because of their condition?
They are made darker, different design clutch disc
I have a zf 6hp26 in my bmw 550i, it occasionally jerks on downshift and up shift on the 1-2 or 2-3 gear change I cant remember which. I do know it only does it on that one gear change and sometimes get hung up in that gear as if i was driving in manual mode. After 5-15 seconds it will slam into the next gear or I can just hit my paddle shifter and tell the car to shift and it will shift instantly. It will only do this once in a blue moon and still annoying and i think it might have to do with the jerking shift on that same gear. the jerking gear change happens when driving slow. if your on the gas hard it shifts like butter. go to slow and will occasionally jerk. I don't know if this is a line pressure issue where the trans is trying to do full power shifts when it needs to split the gear change. The trans was leaking and that was fix, it also had zf lifeguard fluid put it. it had these issues before the repair and after. Could this be a solenoid issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This was the service kit that was used. Its all ZF or BMW branded parts and service was done at an BMW independent mechanic.
BMW GA6HP26Z Mechatronic Service Kit - 24117571227KT4
Thanks
Have you by chance had the car scanned for codes in the trans? Yes this could be a solenoid issue. Question, does this happen when the car is hot?
@@GaryFerraro sorry for the delay I didn't notice you responded. If I remember correctly I think it did jerk when hot. Ive learned to just get on it and there's no jerk as its just doing full power shits when it jerks, It happens very intermittently. with covid i haven't been able to drive the car for month as there's nowhere to go. Ive scanned the car both with generic odb2 scanner and ISTA+ and there's no codes for the trans. Whats what makes me wonder.
i have a 2008 bmw 535i , code came up as 4f84 , so it shudders on acceleration in 3rd 4th and 5th gears , what u think is the issue ? i thought it was the gaibo , but more likely the valve body seals or mechatronic bridge seal , what you think ?
Got your e-mail
Hi Gary, just found your channel. Great videos!
I'd like to ask what is it that blue lubricant at 1:02:14?
It is Transgel, special assembly grease for transmissions, it melts when the trans heats up
@@GaryFerraro Thank you Gary I'm not a specialist but love to watch all your videos. Thumbs up!
Kind Gary Ferraro, according to your opinion, what are the factors the influence the most the wearing of the stator bushings? Driving mostly in hilly or mountainous areas? Spirited driving? Driving in stop and go traffic? Towing? Old ATF? Low ATF level? Clogged ATF filter?
Pretty much just driving wears out the bushing, it's normal wear and tear
Hi Gary, great videos you got here. Just a question what is that block you used for cleaning the surface of the valve body. thanks
Fine sanding stone to take any burrs off the valvebody, you can google "fine sanding stone"
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking of overhauling the valve body of my ZF6HP26X transmission by following your videos and hopefully fixing it. The transmission started having issues when the oil cooler leaked from inside mixing water and transmission oil together. Whenever I'm on the 3rd gear the transmission started to flare/slip, vibrates and rpm needle moves up and down in a second. Similar happens in 4th to 6th gears. It is somewhat ok in a flat surface until you press the pedal hard and it is also evident in low grade hill. I hooked the car to INPA and got the codes 5DEB and 54C6. Do you think I may need to replace the clutches as well?
@@jeffreyjaitamani8075 so there was water inside the transmission?
@@GaryFerraro I've already flushed out the contaminated oil in the transmission a couple of times and replaced the oil cooler and filter as well. Also, did the adaptation reset a couple of times but never fixes it.
@@jeffreyjaitamani8075 You can start with the valvebody if you like but once water gets in the trans, that is no good and usually needs overhaul
Hello Gary, nice video ! I came accross your channel looking to troubleshot my gearbox problem on my LR3. All speed work fine but when on highway from 5th to 6th speed I feel a kick when the gearbox shift, not smooth at all, any idea what it could be ? Thank you and great content ;)
Any codes present for the transmission? has the fluid level been checked?
@@GaryFerraro I've got a code on the dashboard when I put reverse and force it a bit on the pedal, the vehicle goes into limited transmission mode, Have to turn it off 1min and goes to normal. Unfortunately don't have an IID tool to read code for the moment. As for the 6th gear kicking when on highway, it gives no error on the dashboard. The transmission filter and oil have been changed right before I bought the vehicle according to the shop (reputed independent specialist here in Switzerland). I suspect them not to have flushed properly the gearbox, that was my first thought as these gearbox are pretty solid i've been told. Also the vehicle have now 273000km, and I according to the maintenance that have been conducted on it, gearbox filter change had been done once on it in its life time. Thank you for your answer Gary, help is always welcome.
There is also a small delay between the time I use the gear lever to put it in D or R and the time the gearbox actually goes into D or R, meaning if i accelerate before its actually engaged motor will spin kinda freely and then catch the gearbox, don't know it that makes sence.
@@florianrav8179 Check the fluid level
@@florianrav8179 Could be solenoid issues but just confirm fluid level
Hi , great video. I have a zf6hp26 in my 2003 jaguar. I just finished restoring the car . Before I started I had a gearbox fault. Unfortunately I let my trans service go way to long. The car didn't shift outta 2 gear. I ordered the kit to change fluid and filter. I used zf 6 fluid. The old oil was dark but not burnt not were there any metal or shavings in pan. The trans is shifting and driving again. The problem I'm having is the car sometimes jumps from 5-6 back and forth. The fault comes up also. I drove it today and not fault came up. I rechecked the fluid level and it's full. I ordered replacent cellinoids and I have the valve body seals . I wanna replace them and add new oil again. What are my chances it's a cellinoid ? Can I ship trans to you if I don't get a positive result ? You video is extremely detailed and great info on this unit. I put 160k miles on the trans it was replaced by dealer before I bought it with 40k miles. Thanks again also the transmission is operating at the right temp no overheating
You either have a solenoid problem or worn bushings, after solenoid replacement, make sure you reset shift adapts or the trans may work the same way. What fault code are you getting? Where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro , Im gonna scan it Friday. I'm in tampa area . I rechecked fluid level and it took another half quart. So far no fault lights 🙏. We have the program to set adaptations . Thanks 👍
@@mikejacobs4727 ok, make sure the trans is hot, above 130F and no codes in trans or engine or adaptation may not work
@@mikejacobs4727 hello Mike I'm going to follow your results I am getting ready to do first time work to my transmission and I get very similar errors except if I push the pedal all the way down and it does the. upshift, it never shifts again until I pull off and turn off the car. As long as I baby the transmission everything seems to work fairly well except for I have to manually shift it into six gear. I do this by switching from drive to five and then back to drive and I feel it shift into 6th Gear. Good luck to you!
@@carolriley9392 , you have a J gate shifter ? Mine has one the right side is normal P - N,D etc , move shifter to left it becomes manual. I've also noticed when I'm in manual mode the car shifts fine. Since I already opened the transmission and changed the fluid ( no metal or shavings where in the pan or oil ) I believe it's a celenoid or valve seal. I have a scanner and can monitor the transmission temperature. It's operating in a safe level and doesn't overheat at all. The service isn't to bad just have to take extra precaution when your under the car . I drive mine up on ramps and jack the back up equally with two jacks . I made blocks to go under the wheels so the car is level and for extra precaution I put jack stands at the four points on frame. I'll keep you posted on my result.
What were the adaptation values after the test drive? Do you remember? all negative? I Have an 6HP26A ( A8 D3 from 2007 ), changed oil ( lifeguard 8 ) and now the adaptation values are all worst than before ( and before the oil flush I did reset the adaptations and drive the car for like 4k km ). Audi oil PN for my VIN is the lifeguard 6 equivalent. Not sure if using lifeguard 8 will cause any damage.
You talk to these ZF guys, they say just use the Lifeguard 6 in the 6 speeds. Do you feel any slipping? what scan tool are you using?
@@GaryFerraro I'm using VCDS to reset the adaptations and read the values. After oil flush ( I also replaced the middle seal and small "tube" seals ) and resetting adaptations the clutch behaves very badly until all the clutch packs are adapted. After adaptation I have clutch slip when pulling from 4th gear at 1400rpm full throttle. I had no clutch slip before. Engine is doing about 950nm ( 4.2 TDI v8 ). values before oil change and adaptation: -300, -100, 120, -160, 120. No slip with these values. After oil change to LG8 and after at least 4 adaptations on each clutch pack: -300, -80, 170, -150, 170.
@@pedroteixeira4369 How much have you driven the car, these will adapt when hot temp above 130F, may not adapt when car is cold or codes may be present, if there are any codes in engine or trans, clear them
@@GaryFerraro I drove about 100km, almost all of them doing the adaptation process as specified by audi documentation. Did this at night on the highway without any traffic. No error codes, oil temp around 140F ( 60c ). The new values I gave you have the following adaptation cycles: 20,16,4,9,4 . I think I am going to try to flush the LG8 and replace it with LG6 and see what happens. The oil costs a fortune thou. :( the strange thing is this: before doing the oil flush I did an adaptation reset and relearn procedure. I noticed absolutely nothing wrong with the gearbox, even with all the adaptation values at zero. But after the oil flush and new adaptation reset, the gearbox jerks alot and slips before it adapts. I did the reset and relearn process twice, just in case, and they both came out the same. So I am inclined to think that the oil does make a difference even with the audi dealer saying that I can use LG8 in LG6 gearboxes.
What scan tool were you using for the clutch specs, that is priceless
Snap-on scan tool
Hi Gary, I did transmission oil change with Valvoline MaxLife fluid which which many people say works well with these ZF units. After this i noticed a few months later unusual shifting from 4th to 5th gear. But only when transmission reaches 80C in temp. Do you think replacing fluid back to LifeGuard may fix issue? Gear box is ZF6HP19. Has same symptoms as this one with no codes unit i forced slippage by short shifting manually up hill when gearbox was hot (at 80C). Im think Valvoline fluid getting too thin when very hot.
Never really heard of any problems, i think you have a worn rear stator bushing. Do you have a scanner that shows data?
@@GaryFerraro Got error code 4F8A. E-clutch adaptation values are -84mbar fill pressure and 134ms fill time.
@@stevesas4744 What is the definition of that code?
@@GaryFerraro 4-5 ratio monitoring code
@@stevesas4744 I have seen low clutch fill times with codes like yours, the problem was the rear stator bushing, does this problem happen only hot?
Dear Garry
Where do you buy the spare parts for the zf 6hp26 ??
thank you
Where are you located?
I am located in Brazil. But I have an address for online shopping in the United States.
Hey! You probably won’t reply to this but it’s worth a shot, I have the same car and same code, my issue is a little misfire like or loss of pressure like for 0.5 second every 5 or so seconds when on fifth gear and at speed of 40mph, only happens when the car is warmed up and never cold. I’ve been advised to change the oil, all seals, the solenoids and rest adaptation? Please since you have done this gearbox on the car can you advise me?? Your help is greatly appreciated 🙏🏼
I have traced this back to either solenoids or worn rear stator bushing. Being the fact that it happens hot and is ok cold, i would think your problem is a worn rear stator bushing
@@GaryFerraro I appreciate you getting back to me Gary! I have no other issues apart from this, I have been advised that the rear bushing is fine as I’m not getting any issue in other gears and even on 5th gear where this issue is, it only happens at 40mph at 1500 rpm and if I go up to say 2000 rpm this issue disappears? I’ve been told by a number of people it’s definitely the solenoids but I can’t be sure as they are over £300 to buy in the UK
@@moeaboushagor2627 Any Codes? How many miles?
@@GaryFerraro the code I’m getting is 4F8A 4-5 ratio monitoring, it’s been cleared and not came back since. The car has 90k. No issues what so ever in any other gears and very smooth
@@moeaboushagor2627 ok, @ biggest issues causing this problem is bushing wear or solenoids, Bushing wear being the most common. I have seen solenoids a hand full of times cause this but most of the time bushing wear. Easier first to replace solenoids and reset adapts to see if anything changes. Just did one were the car had to be driven an hour or better before it went into limp mode, that was a bushing problem, the owner of the car did the solenoids before he brought the car to me.
Hmmm. No sleeves at the 2 holes for A and E clutches. Interesting. I see it is metal to metal contact.
I also learned that the bridge seals are different for HP19/21 and HP26/28. It is about 1mm difference in height. I wonder if people install wrong one and cause them trouble. I see a lot of misinformation on ebay and amazon. Sellers simply don't know what they are selling.
Never really had a problem with that, machined perfectly. Bushings are a big problem
How many labor hourse to rebuild this gearbox took you ? Without filming. Lets say avarge.
I would say 8 to 10, thats with the valvebody
How many qts of lifeguard 6 did you say? I bought 6 withe the pan as a set , and nothing came out while running the engine so I bought another qt, they don't give this lifeguard away, I thought I heard you say 10 qts.? Is it that much more withe the trans out of the car.
That is a dry fill about 10 liters
Hello Gary, can I swap f85 torque converter on zf6hp26 with f92 converter on BMW 730d 231hp? The f92 is from 740d
I honestly would not know but this is something i had never done, the converter may come out of the same type transmission but the converter may be different
No valve body vacuum testing?
Haven't really had any issues with the valvebody on these units, this was the common problem of a worn stator bushing
teardown and rebuilding please sir
Hi Gary I have a 2005 bmw x5 6HP26X people are telling me that its not rebuildable what are your thoughts
They are rebuildable, i do them all the time. Why are they saying that?
i have problem transmission ratio monitoring clutches A-C..my car e60 ZF5hp19..i was change selenoid with new one, adapter seal and seal slevee,but the faulth still there. can you help me some advice.
is this the 5hp19 or the 6hp19
@@GaryFerraro its 6hp..
Sorry
@@boyriyal8824 after the solenoids were changed did you reset the adapts? What do you feel when you drive?
@@GaryFerraroI have reset the adaptation. I feel a jerking between 2nd and 3rd gears
what should I do next
HEY GARY STEVEN FROM FLORIDA I HAVE A ZF6HP26 RANGE ROVER 4.4 SPORT I HAVE A CODE PO730 THE SCAN TOOL SHOW THE SOLENOID 1,2,3,4 NUMBERS NOT MOVING BUT 5,6 NUMBERS WORKS WHAT CAN I DO TO FIX THIS PROBLEM
P0730 is gear ratio error, first thing is to check the fluid level. When you drive the car do you feel it slip?
@@GaryFerraro yes and it was leaking fluid
Should I replace the solenoid are can I clean them
Fill it clear codes and drive. Check fluid with engine running
@@GaryFerraro The solenoid protector/comforter was broken the plastic strip on top of the solenoid could I do with out it I can’t find that piece anywhere
I have a Aluminum brick seal that I don't need no more.if interested let me know.
Thanks¡
Please film with smartphone which will have a lot better IQ
these problems are primarily due to the box overheating. please don't continue to use the piece of crap heat exchanger and install a good cooler