Your videos gave me the knowledge and confidence to rebuild my ZF6HP28 myself. I was certainly nervous first test drive after reassembly but I'm happy to report my transmission is working like new and I didn't need a second mortgage to pay for it. THANKS!!!!
Hey Gary This is an old video but well mate thank you, im located in poland and was able to tear down the 26hp to inspect it. Learned a lot through these videos
Found this site after watching a Jaguar XK8 video. I have a 2.7 Jaguar S Type with 6 speed transmission (gearbox in UK) which I think is the same as the one you are taking apart. Mine was refurbished a few years ago at some expense. After watching the procedure it is clear it was worth it! Thank you.
Gary, I have an 09 550i with the 6hp28. 76k miles. I had the jolt/slip when kicking down into 4th gear when overtaking someone on the highway. It was going on for about 5k miles, but I did my best to limit the occurrences and it never threw a fault code. Finally in February it started slipping out of 5th and into 6th when in sport mode. That was not registering on the speedometer but I could feel it and tell by the RPMs. I got curious and went through gears 4, 5, and 6 individually in steptronic mode just to see if any were acting funny. Every time it was locked in 5th gear and I tried to give it moderate throttle, it would slip into 6th. It was a smooth slip, though. You’d only notice if you paid attention to the RPMs. I repeated the process a few times just to see if it was consistent and after the 4th time it went into limp home mode with a transmission malfunction on the idrive. I scanned it with ISTA+ Rheingold, and it had one code: 4F85 gear monitoring clutches B & E. It was the first time it had ever thrown a code for the gearbox (I am proficient in BMW coding and read the fault memory quite often). It wasn’t a hard code, either. 1st occurrence. I immediately stopped driving the car and I rebuilt the valve body with a Sonnax Zip Kit, new solenoids, all mechatronics seals & sleeves, and ZF Lifeguard 6. The car drives fine now. Better than fine actually. But it didn’t at first. I didn’t reset the adaptations immediately after. When i took it out for some spirited driving it still jolted and slipped. No fault codes thrown. I just did the adaptation procedure last night and it seems to have done the trick. My question is, do I need to rebuild the internals or can I get away with just doing the valve body rebuild?
@@GaryFerraro that’s what I was thinking, but I wanted to get an expert opinion. My valve body separator plate was completely delaminated on one side when I disassembled the unit. Replaced with new Sonnax separator plate. Also the accumulator pistons were all squished. Those were replaced as part of the zip kit. The figure-eight shaped mechatronic seal was falling apart basically. The rubber gaskets completely separated from the hard plastic. I think I did the right thing by immediately parking the vehicle after the code was thrown. I only drove it down the street to my buddy’s shop where I rebuilt the valve body. I’m a relatively skilled DIYer, but I’ve never even changed the oil on a transmission, much less rebuilt a valve body. Your videos gave me all the information and confidence needed to get the job done. You’re a blessing, sir! Thank you so much!
It’s been a year. How is your car fairing after the “lower end” trans rebuild you did? I did the exact same repair on my 2009 X5 3.0si (6hp19 trans) with the same clutch monitoring codes….I too did not reset adaption immediately, but once I did, the trans acted brand new….for about 2 years and 25k miles.…and here I am again. Throwing the same clutch-e codes with a 4-5 flare only when car (trans) heats up. I’m looking to replace the rear stator bushing now.
thanks hary for the reply. I dismantled the gearbox and everything was burnt inside the last shaft D clutch. I also talked to other companies and I think the heat exchanger is to blame. Antifreeze got into the gearbox
As a non-pro, the best way to get out this sturdy snap ring holding the center support is to simply beat a really small screwdriver in between there. That´s possible since the slot continues behind the snap ring that will slide beyond the screwdriver´s tip up its shaft. No chance to get the tip of a pry bar or even a bigger screwdriver underneath this snap ring...
@@GaryFerraro Btw : Do you know the torque specs stator to housing & pump to stator? Couldn't finde anything in all the ZF workbooks around in the net...
Thx for the video dear. I really need your suggestions on the following please: BMW E66 750LI '08 (ZF6HP26) Error code 4E89 (Solenoid valve 1 or solenoid valve 2 mechanically jammed) Problem: - When cold car start and shifts fine even to sixth gear, post 5 minutes of operation the car would do the following: - Keep slamming gear automatically into parking if at low rolling speed. 30% of the times a strong hit is heard as if some car is hitting from behind, this happens regardless choice was reverse or 1st gear. You would literally look at rear mirror. It shifts into parking even if speed is up to something like 5 km/h - The moment you shift back into reverse or drive it will keep going back into parking and prevent you from driving. Car lifted in workshop and following was noticed as per them: - Particles of aluminum/metal shavings noted with in the oil pan (multiple small dots, nothing major). Oil brown and not bad. - They tried replacing the whole control unit (Except its black ECU) with two other complete used units and problem still persist. - They said the return hose of oil was too hot and recommended to replace heat exchanger + transmission thermostat + the whole gearbox with a used one. They suspected maybe the problem is from the heat or control box ECU damaged from heat or something else inside gearbox. Now I am confused what to do every workshop just recommend to replace the whole gearbox because in here it is cheaper than fixing. Computer test (ISTA-D) reported transmission oil fluid temperature of 67 °C only while in parking for over 10 minutes with engine at 102 °C and error code was coming so it didn't flag high temperature and the control unit ECU seems to be communicating fine. Please help.
Great video Gary. Understand you are going through the valve body shortly, are there any key call outs on disassembly to ensure it goes together correctly. Thank you.
Make sure you get the correct plate code( example A053 or other side B053), Be careful when you lift the plate off where all the check balls are. When putting the 2 valvebody halves together, put a few bolts in and then install the TCM, that has the line up pins
Hey Gary - firstly, your videos are incredible! Thank you. But, I made a mistake on the A drum. I did not mark the pieces before I rebuilt it. So no way of knowing how it goes back. The drum and planets went back together nicely and snapped back good. What are the concerns before I put the box back, that those pieces are not exactly the way it was before teardown? Feeling worried. Thanks man!
Hey Gary i have a 2009 e70 x5 35d, i got my transmission rebuilt by a local shop because it slipped on clutch E under heavy wot and would have to pull over , restart and go again . Day after i got it rebuilt it did the same thing slipped again.... shop said they replaced clutchs , seals and cleaned up valve body. i check the code i got. 4F85
Hey Gary! Thank you soo much for this amazing video! I have the same problem of not being able to shift from 3rd to 4th gear. Error 4F89 I already have the Precision Raceworks clutch kit (propulsive dynamics). Maybe it's the bush you mentioned?
No ESD wriststrap when handling the Mechatronic Unit? Careful prying out those large rings. Were you able to get readings of the clutch fluid pressure adaptions before teardown? Orange O-rings are Silicone Rubber. You want the new sleeves with Black Viton O-rings.
I’ve watched a number of your 6hp26 videos over the years. I did a full valve body and solenoid and bridge seal repair on my 2009 X5 3.0si (wasn’t aware it was a 6hp19 trans until this very video) with the same E-clutch monitoring codes….after that “lower end” repair 2 years ago and adaptation reset it acted brand new….for about 2 years and 25k miles.…and here I am again. Throwing the same clutch-e codes with a 4-5 flare only when car (trans) heats up. (Same issue I had 2 years ago) …..I’m looking to replace the rear stator bushing now. Would you advise to replace all the bushings? Every other gear, both upshift and downshift is flawless. Thank you very much for all your videos. I have watched hours of them so far!
@@GaryFerraro after watching your 6hp19 tear down video I believe my method of repair is to replace the rear stator bushing like you always mention as well as the E-drum clutches/friction rings and possibly steels if they are burnt up. Where can I source the parts? I am in South Carolina. Also, I saw on that 6hp19 video that there was a secondary, forward/support rear stator bushing… is that 6hp19 specific? Will I encounter that on my xdrive3.0 (AWD) X5?
Thank you Gary. That is an eye opener for me. Your videos are more clear and easily understandable. I have the same issue on mine (ZF 6HP26Z) and I was thinking of just buying a second hand one and installing it on my E60 530d. I will then work on the faulty one at my pace after getting the rebuild kits. The only transmissions I come across out there are the ZF 6HP19 and ZF 6HP28. I was wondering if getting the second generation ZF 6HP28 is a good idea. Is it a plug and play installation with just programming/coding it to the car or is it much more complicated than that? Kindly advise. Your recommendations will be highly appreciated. Thank you once again.
excellent video Gary, just a quick one Gary, when changing the clutches must i use the vernier caliper to measure the steels and the frictions on all the transmission but i am thinking that as far as the clutches and frictions got enough play. pls i need your advise. thanks
That really depends on the trans, clutches should be changed and if the steels are ok, put them back if they are burnt you will have to replace. If your for instance working on a honda with 5 clutch packs, you will need to measure the thickness and in some cases you will not need to
Gary Ferraro I’m in Brooklyn. I might be able to make it to you, just might have pull over and restart the car about 10 times. Gears are slipping, delayed drive shift,and jerky reverse shifting. I got the works!! It use to slip every so often. Now it’s every time I drive the car. It’s so frustrating. Car drives like a dream when the tranny is operating as designed. At this point I think I need a new transmission. I don’t know 🤔
Hello Gary, I must say you are a master at the ZF transmissions. I have been watching your videos for a long time and have found them to be very educational. My transmission has been acting up for the last few months now. I have a 2007 BMW 335i It has the ZFHP19 transmission. The issue is when when the car pull off from a stop the engine speed up and the transmission engages with a light thud. Also as the car come to a stop, it comes to a stop with a slight thud.feels like if some one taps you in the rear. When I took it ion to a garage. They replace the bridge seal and the four black rubber tubes, new lifeguard 6 fluid (complete flush} and new filter. Unfortunately, the problem is still there. Any ideas of what ‘tis might be? I have 95,000 Kms (about 60,000 miles on the car) I appreciate any advice you could offer. Kind regards!
Gary Ferraro yes i have access to an Autel Maxisys. I saw a video on RUclips outlining the adaptations reset. Is this what you are thinking of? I am attaching a link :- ruclips.net/video/nN78ukXXF_o/видео.html
Here is another video I saw: ruclips.net/video/KoIRHWDUSNU/видео.html. As with most videos on RUclips some of these videos provide inaccurate information...Thanks for you response. I also have INPA although I have never used it.
Hi there Gary, great video! I'm a beginner when it comes to gearboxes, and I currently have a e60 throwing 4F83: EGS Ratio Monitoring Clutch C. I've read through the comments and I don't see anyone having this code, mostly 4F85. Is this code uncommon? I haven't done anything, but I've ordered 4 seals and a new bridge adapter, and cleaned out each solenoid. Going to replace fluid and a new pan as well. Do you think this should solve the problem? Or am I looking at something much worse? Regards from Malaysia!
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary do you mind if I email you? It's kind of a long explanation, I'll email you the whole process. For anyone who's interested in this post you can email me, or once I get the problem solved I'll update here. darrenchang95@gmail.com
Hello Gary, thanks for your videos, Here in Portugal have lots off that gear box, i have a car shop, and i'm dealing with that code in a 6hp19z, se dont have many people working with that kind of beatbox, so i'm trying to repair it. I have a couple of question if you can help me. When you mount new clutchs you oild tem before ir not?! When gearbox is ready how you fill the oil before start the car?! Thank again for your great job.
I do not oil the clutches before i put them in the drum. The way you fill it is, With engine OFF add fluid untill it run out, install the plug, start the engine and fill again until it runs out, then it should be full, so first with engine OFF then add with engine RUNNING
Hi Gary, is it possible to remove the stator without opening the gearbox? I just wanted to put the gearbox upright, take off the converter, remove the stator and change the stator bearing. I did not want to drain the oil and remove the mechatronics. If I remove the stator like this, do you think I'll damage the gland seal? Greatings from Germany
Hi Gary, I did the repair on Monday. Unfortunately, when the engine is running, transmission oil drips from the opening in the transmission bell. I think I didn't tighten the screws on the stator enough. On Saturday I will remove the gearbox again to check it. Do you know the correct torque for the screws that hold the stator to the gearbox?
@@matthiasmuster3144 Make sure the o-ring is good and the bolts that hold the pump to the case, the ones on the outside, they should all have a washer too. I tighten them to 100 inch pounds
Hey Gary, I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge to the world! I have 528 xi 2008 that is currently not shifting out of park showing Trans. Malfunction: The Malfunction may be resolved by restarting, Contact nearest BMW. The Problem started after driving vehicle to work 5.5 miles. After returning to vehicle during lunch (5 hours later) vehicle would not shift out of park. After attempting to reset the transmission pressing and releasing the gas pedal vehicle shifted into gear and allowed me to drive home another 5.5 miles. When i exited the vehicle i left it running and returned in 20 minutes to the original problem of not shifting out of park. The error code the vehicle is reading fault code 4e22 electronic pressure control valve 3. I have been looking into getting new solenoids for the vehicle. Just curious what you think could be the issue! Thanks !
Either solenoids or the TCM, Common is solenoids shorted, need to drop out valvebody to ohm solenoids, get an OE solenoid kit and change them all if solenoid (EDS3) is shorted
Hey Gary I’m currently trying to purchase a valve body for the 528 bmw 2008. The valve bodies I’m finding only have 2.0L 2.5L and 3.0L Does the 528 require a 2.8L valve body?
Здраствуйте! У меня 8hp-45. Код ошибки 420401. И 420451. В интернете не нашёл обозначению этого ошибки. После капитального ремонта. Выходит этот ошибка. Если подскажите, то буду очень рад
Hi Gary, your video was very educational and has answered most of my question. Just wanted to run something by you, I have a BMW 530d 2009 plate. Has approx 170K miles, on the OBD the clutch E has come up as fault, goes into limp mode only on motorways, local road have no issues. Could I sort this out with a gearbox oils change? Or does it need to be striped and replaced? Also how much should I pay for this approx? Thanks.
Do you have a scanner that shows live data? Where are you located? Oil change probably won't help you. I would say either a solenoid problem or worn bushings
Love your videos and have been watching several of the 6hp rebuilds.... I have a 335d "6hp28" and I plan to rebuild a spare transmission.... would you happen to know where one can find literature on how many fractions and steels are in each clutch and their orientation?
i have a question about the weight of the transmission. I have similar code 4F85. The car wouldn't engage from 3 to 4th gear. I am wondering if the transmission is heavy to lift?
hi.Gary.my name is Daniel i'm from austria i'm a fan of yours i follow all your tutorials on you tube and i've done a lot of reps. thanks to you. but now I have a problem with a bmw x5 2016 gearbox. model 8HP72Z. it has the error code 421362...Gear ratio monitoring all clutches implausible and the oil is very dirty and has metallic coating. With two weeks a wash was done before but it didn't help. I checked the megatronic, all the valves are ok. I need your advice please
Hi Gary, it has been a while since the last time I commented on your videos or asked you for valuable advice. it is very valuable to me because with it and by watching some of your videos I was able to rebuild my transmission on my 05 BMW 545i it's a ZF6HP26 6 speed automatic. well I took it out for a test run and it ran great!, gears shifted smooth and all for first 200 miles, and today I just got a message of transmission malfunction on the I drive and the car jerked from 3rd to 4th. I pulled code 4F85, all steels and frictions were replaced as well as all seals and bushings, valve body intermediate plate and dampers were also replaced, New solenoids were installed too. One thing I did not do since the valve body was from a different transmission was to program the control unit to my car's VIN #. Is this necessary to program the Mechatronics unit and the new solenoids The valve body was from a 05 BMW 545 as well but different VIN # and all solenoids were new I replaced the valve body and mechatronics unit because plastic was cracked. What programming procedure was needed in this case Gary
I don't think that is your problem, how did the rear stator bushing fit onto the E drum, did it turn free? does the problem happen hot and cold or only hot?
@@GaryFerraro It Fit real nice and tight no play and it turned free, the one bushing I messed up was one of the large bushings on the A drum, but I ordered another one and installed it. I made sure all fit nice and there was no play but they all turned freely, will take tranny down tomorrow, what should I look for when I tear it down? worn stator bushing? as far as if it happens hot or cold, I will need to drive car again cold since the times I drove the car I always got it up to operating temperature before starting the drive trying to get it ready for smog, But I will take it for a spin and will let you Know, Thank You Gary, Best Regards from So. Cal.
Hello Gary, just tore transmission down and in fact Stator bushing was no where to be found also the A clutch smaller bushing spun on the stator looks like I will be installing those 2 bushings but I need to check the fitment make sure it’s nice and tight. One thing that I want to ask is that the oil pan is or was new Original , I don’t think it can be reused since all the metal flakes from bushing was at the bottom of the pan, all other bushings look good. Have you used a metal oil pan for this transmissions?
Hi. I love your videos. This made me try to fix my oil pump in my 6hp26 , The converter was rebuild and whend we try to remount everything we broke the oil pump. Issue is now i opened again the gearbox , and i found inside gearbox like under mechatronic , like a tiny PIN , that i have no ideea were in world it comed out from. I checked all diagrams for ZF , google , and i still have no clue. I dont know if you can help me , it would be much apreciate it.
@Gary Ferraro i have a 35d with ZF GA6HP26Z. i have a cycling slipping problem in all the gears and at various speeds (cruising at light throttle only). Its like riding a horse... After changing oil, pan and the rubber seals in the mechatronics and pump i reset the adaptations and followed many times the adaptation instructions. BUT rapid fill times never got completely filled with values... i had flares between 4-5 WOT (more in sequential than D or SD) since the reset. Have any idea where the cycling (oil pressure i suppose) problem is and why i cant get the rapid fill times adapted? BTW thank you for your videos, Best Regards
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for answering! I have filled it and followed the ZF instructions: iirc, i filled with oil, started the engine and filled some more until it dripped out. Then watched the gearbox temp in the Diag and once it was in the correct ballpark, opened the fill plug and let it drain until only a very thin stream was running out. closed it. done. I have blown air to get the most oil i could out of the tq converter (while the mechatronic was out). Should i have done a refill and level check after a few miles??? The problem seems to be in all gears, but yes most felt in higher gears. its like the torque converter solenoid PID is searching for the correct % of actuation...
Hello, I have the 4f8c code, I replaced the sleeves and adaptor, oil and oil pan, problem is that I have some vaico sleeves that seems thinner than Zf oem ones. NOW I ordered some Zf rebuild kit, including valve body seals, my car puts the transmision in failsafe mode after kick down between 5 and 6, what do you think, is the culprit non oem sleeves, thanks a lot
@@GaryFerraro no not at all , a bit off kicking between 1 and second gear, I also installed a new guibo and reset adaptation, it was the first time the code apeared but at low speed as the gear selector passed a bit after D (Gear lever had the sensasion it s not engaging so firm after adaptation reset) second time at high speed happend to enter in transmision failsaife code 4f8c
Problem solved, no error codes, never use other stuff like vaico or shitty aftermarket products. Managed to open the mecatronic and to change the valve body. Changed the sleeves, adaptor and fresh zf oil. Reset adaptations and all the gears change smooth, no clutch sleep. The slleeves from vaico manufacturer were not good and almost melted and obtured the holes. Never use other than oem zf parts, lesson hard learned, thank you.
Hello, I'm getting code 4f85 only on highways, maybe once while driving 80km distance, in city driving i dont have any problem at all. And I feel it only happens when the AT is hot. I already changed the oil pan, oil and inner seals, (drained fluid was fine and not burnt, no particles in the old filter) but this didnt fix the problem, do you think that i need change the clutch packs and ring seals? Thank you
Hi Gary, Thanks for your videos!!! We have a 2007 2WD Lincoln Navigator and believe it has the 6HP26 trans. Did a fluild change to the Motorcraft SP fluid about 18 months ago. Recently, I've noticed loosing OD lockup in higher gears after driving for 30 or more minutes. Could you speculate? VIN is 5LMFU27537LJ18556. Thanks.
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, I have a slightly better than basic scan tool by Autel, it shows no codes in the TCM. I do have a couple other tidbits... Vehicle did have trans fluid change about 18 months ago with Motorcraft SP, but the adaptation values were not reset (Didn't know they might need to be done). Vehicle has ~150k miles (mostly highway / I'm not a light foot & not a heavy foot driver). I notice the trans seems to unlock from OD just as the load lightens, then the RPMs wander by as much as 600 rpm. Sometimes it will re-engage quickly, sometimes not. An example would be going up a very very slight incline when the OD is locked, then cresting the incline to level, it unlocks from OD. It is very subtle, when it comes out, but I notice it because I'm paying attention. Again, could you speculate? Is there anything I could try before pulling the Trans & TC? I know the bridge seal is a common part to replace, as are the 4 smaller seals above the valvebody. Either of those repairs would be easy for me to accomplish. But going any further into the trans is above my paygrade... LOL!
@@sasngang Since you have an Autel, can you go into data and look at the clutch fill times for the E clutch. Does this happen only going on incline ? It is a ZF6HP26
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary... thanks for your time and willingness to help. My Autel unit doesn't have that ability, it's a pretty basic unit. Can I get a few minutes of your time to chat by phone? I'd be happy to compensate you.
I have the same transmission but my transmission stumbles occasionally from first to second gear, and also when you get off the freeway coming down a slight hill to a stoplight sometimes the transmission makes a clunk between second and first gear. My independent mechanic did a update and a reset on my transmission but did not do the "relearn" drive. My car drove fine for a whole entire month then my issue started happening again again it's an occasional issue and there is no fault codes on the dash what do you think the problem is? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated Thank you in advance
@@GaryFerraro mostly does it when driven after first start, but sometimes it doesn't. Oddly enough when warm it might do it occasionally it's never constant. Even when cold, it might do it a couple times then stop for the rest of the day. It's strange. One time I had a slowed at an intersection rolled thru went to accelerate and felt a clunk so hard it shook me, I know come to a full stop before accelerating. It rarely ever does that.
Also never have checked the fluid level. I am the third owner of the car. I took it to a transmission shop, told me my fluid cap had a semi stripped bolt head, requiring to either remove the drive shaft or exhaust pipe to get to. Since there was a generic shop I declined.
Hi Gary can I conclude if my bushings are worn by looking diagnostic data? I mean gearbox pressure values. All are in range mostly negative values. Have codes 4F85, 4F82 and 4F8A. Any help would be appreciated. I have learn a lot watching your videos thx :)
@@GaryFerraro Yesterday chanced solenoids, "DoubleD" sleeve gasket, four tube like seals under valve body and new fluid with pan but problem still exist in gears 4-5. Otherwise it was smoother shifting. Here are some values: Rapid fill time A 39ms, B 30ms, C 1ms, D 0ms and E 105ms. Filling pressure A -293mbar, B 12mbar, C -252mbar, D -48mbar and E -110mbar. Sure that E rapid fill is highest so could it be leaking pressure. Dont know what to think about it.
Mine goes in to safemode when solenoids are hot on 5 or 6 gear when l try to push the car hard sometimes or getting in the highway with a small hill it does it and is saying Ratio Monitoring Clutch E should. Any suggestions????
Gary could you please explain how to remove the piston from the B-clutch. I’m currently rebuilding one and this piston has me stumped. It looks like it needs to come up to relive spring tension. Thanks, Mark in Australia
I show that in the video, depress the beville spring and get the top snap ring out, after that is out and the belville spring is out of the way, 2nd snap ring has to come out to get the balance piston out then the main piston will come out, may have to use air to blow it out
Gary Ferraro thank you so much mate. I don’t know how I missed that. I was FFWD and Rewinding a lot though. Great videos Gary, you’ve been very educational for myself working from home. Thank you.
Hi gary my dad has a 6hp26 and there was a rattling knocking sound from the transmission when the car is in neutral and it got louder when in drive we teardown the transmission and there is nothing disturbing exept the bushings are a little worn could this problem be from the torque converter. No fault codes
Yes it was from the trans front side and when we checked the oil level the car was started and in park 1,2 liters of oil drained from the fill hole we checked it a few months ago and it was ok wasn't like that
i have an e60 530d zf6hp26 with the 4f85 fault. It drives perfectly fine when cold but as it starts to warm up, the transmission faulty shows up on the idrive and the code is cleared once i restart the car. The code gets triggered on a downshift from around 60-80kmph and once the code has been displayed, it keeps reappearing on my trip frequently even if i restart the car and its temporarily fixed. What may be the issue?
Hi Gary… I have a 2007 Bmw 750li when on an incline the tranny goes into limp mode and goes into P by itself. If I’m not on an incline I can shift out of D and R without any problems drives as normal. I took it to an Indy and was told I was low on tranny fluid in which they topped off but the problem still exists. The vehicle Has 155k miles. When they pulled codes 4F81ratio monitoring clutch A was present. Any suggestions other than rebuilding the entire transmission valve body? The Indy quoted 3500
Could you pls give me an idea im also getting codes after a week of changed trans oil and filter 4f85 and 4f81..car almost doesnt move..hoping for you favorable response thank you in advance
Yes, my car's (Jaguar S-Type, equipped with the same trans) workshop manual repeats the "filled for life" nonsense usual in the 2000s, but at least recommends a fluid change each 30.000 miles in case of "heavy use". ZF itself recommends changing the fluid at least every 100.000 km (around 60.000 miles). Besides that driving habits may have an even bigger influence on the lifetime of an auto trans - if you abuse it, regular fluid changes won't help a lot... I added this last sentence because you are a BMW driver (just kidding) 😎
There is a bushing on the back of the pump, (rear stator bushing) It is very common for this bushing to wear out, when it does it causes E clutch apply oil to escape causing problems in 4th,5th and 6th gears
Hey so I still have the code and code 4f83 car drives around fine slips every once in a while like when I’m going up a hill especially but really not often so recently the car wouldn’t go in gear so I bought another transmission and just switched the valve body I didn’t replace any sleeves seals or solenoids or reprogrammed the car and it drives just fine a friend of mine said I should service the valve body and the transmission should be fine my question to you is could that be possible without tearing down the transmission or replacing it
I have a 2006 BMW 750li, I want to buy the valve body spacer plate, but I don't know what model it is. How can I know before disarming? I appreciate any help
@@franciscolavado5606 I can give you a number of a ZF distributor in CT, They may ask for the last 7 of your vin number to decode what transmission you have and what plate you may need.
@@GaryFerraro Today I disassembled the valve body, the nameplate is A053, and I found a place here in las vegas that has it. What fluid do you recommend? I previously used pentosin, but some mechanics have told me that it is not suitable. Thank you very much for your time.
Hi, I’ve got E90 318i with fault codes 4F80 and 4F86 which makes the car go into limo mode but works ok after a restart. Is the transmission dead or can it be repaired? Any help is appreciated
@@GaryFerraro 4F80 is Converter clutch to 0-n. - Switching type 6 to 6 0-n. 4F86 is translation monitoring Sympton circuit monitoring- Converter clutch regulated 0-n. - switching type switching type 5 to 5 0-n
can anyone with ZF6hp transmission in their car tell me if in the first minutes (cold start) they have FULL torque converter lockup in Sequential (M1,M2,M3,etc) or NOT ??? i mean in low revs 1000-2500rpms...
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Your videos gave me the knowledge and confidence to rebuild my ZF6HP28 myself. I was certainly nervous first test drive after reassembly but I'm happy to report my transmission is working like new and I didn't need a second mortgage to pay for it. THANKS!!!!
Awesome!! Good job on rebuilding your transmission
@@GaryFerraro hello I have a 6hp26 3-4 shift fault code
Still going strong?
Hey Gary
This is an old video but well mate thank you, im located in poland and was able to tear down the 26hp to inspect it.
Learned a lot through these videos
Greetings from New York
Found this site after watching a Jaguar XK8 video. I have a 2.7 Jaguar S Type with 6 speed transmission (gearbox in UK) which I think is the same as the one you are taking apart. Mine was refurbished a few years ago at some expense. After watching the procedure it is clear it was worth it! Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Top Video Gary! looking forward to next video putting this puzzle back together.Regards from Australia.
Greetings from New York
Nailed down the problem before disassembly. Great diagnosis skill! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Greg
Gary,
I have an 09 550i with the 6hp28. 76k miles. I had the jolt/slip when kicking down into 4th gear when overtaking someone on the highway. It was going on for about 5k miles, but I did my best to limit the occurrences and it never threw a fault code. Finally in February it started slipping out of 5th and into 6th when in sport mode. That was not registering on the speedometer but I could feel it and tell by the RPMs. I got curious and went through gears 4, 5, and 6 individually in steptronic mode just to see if any were acting funny. Every time it was locked in 5th gear and I tried to give it moderate throttle, it would slip into 6th. It was a smooth slip, though. You’d only notice if you paid attention to the RPMs. I repeated the process a few times just to see if it was consistent and after the 4th time it went into limp home mode with a transmission malfunction on the idrive. I scanned it with ISTA+ Rheingold, and it had one code: 4F85 gear monitoring clutches B & E. It was the first time it had ever thrown a code for the gearbox (I am proficient in BMW coding and read the fault memory quite often). It wasn’t a hard code, either. 1st occurrence. I immediately stopped driving the car and I rebuilt the valve body with a Sonnax Zip Kit, new solenoids, all mechatronics seals & sleeves, and ZF Lifeguard 6. The car drives fine now. Better than fine actually. But it didn’t at first. I didn’t reset the adaptations immediately after. When i took it out for some spirited driving it still jolted and slipped. No fault codes thrown. I just did the adaptation procedure last night and it seems to have done the trick.
My question is, do I need to rebuild the internals or can I get away with just doing the valve body rebuild?
as long as it's working good, thats fine, if it happens again would need to come out, because the rear stator bushing may be worn out
@@GaryFerraro that’s what I was thinking, but I wanted to get an expert opinion. My valve body separator plate was completely delaminated on one side when I disassembled the unit. Replaced with new Sonnax separator plate. Also the accumulator pistons were all squished. Those were replaced as part of the zip kit. The figure-eight shaped mechatronic seal was falling apart basically. The rubber gaskets completely separated from the hard plastic.
I think I did the right thing by immediately parking the vehicle after the code was thrown. I only drove it down the street to my buddy’s shop where I rebuilt the valve body. I’m a relatively skilled DIYer, but I’ve never even changed the oil on a transmission, much less rebuilt a valve body. Your videos gave me all the information and confidence needed to get the job done. You’re a blessing, sir! Thank you so much!
@@scootitnbootit9231 Great to hear, thanks for sharing
It’s been a year. How is your car fairing after the “lower end” trans rebuild you did? I did the exact same repair on my 2009 X5 3.0si (6hp19 trans) with the same clutch monitoring codes….I too did not reset adaption immediately, but once I did, the trans acted brand new….for about 2 years and 25k miles.…and here I am again. Throwing the same clutch-e codes with a 4-5 flare only when car (trans) heats up. I’m looking to replace the rear stator bushing now.
thanks hary for the reply. I dismantled the gearbox and everything was burnt inside the last shaft D clutch. I also talked to other companies and I think the heat exchanger is to blame. Antifreeze got into the gearbox
Yes, i would agree with a bad cooler, water kills the trans
Mr Ferraro: Transmission Maestro. Love watching you work, THANK YOU.
Thank you for watching, glad you enjoy
Would love to see some reassembly videos at some point! As always, great video. Thanks!
I will try, i can usually only do that on weekends and when i have time. I will keep that in mind, thanks for watching
Its just like any manual says: 'Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.'
@@ThunderAppeal Thanks?
good video
As a non-pro, the best way to get out this sturdy snap ring holding the center support is to simply beat a really small screwdriver in between there. That´s possible since the slot continues behind the snap ring that will slide beyond the screwdriver´s tip up its shaft. No chance to get the tip of a pry bar or even a bigger screwdriver underneath this snap ring...
Agreed, the whole trick is to get behind the snap ring
@@GaryFerraro Btw : Do you know the torque specs stator to housing & pump to stator? Couldn't finde anything in all the ZF workbooks around in the net...
To answer the question myself, also for everybody who doesn't know: stator/ oil pump: 15 nm, stator/ housing: 10 nm
Your a ZF Transmission superhero 🦸♂️
I enjoy working on these units
@@GaryFerraro how much does this cost.... I need this asap
Thx for the video dear. I really need your suggestions on the following please:
BMW E66 750LI '08 (ZF6HP26)
Error code 4E89 (Solenoid valve 1 or solenoid valve 2 mechanically jammed)
Problem:
- When cold car start and shifts fine even to sixth gear, post 5 minutes of operation the car would do the following:
- Keep slamming gear automatically into parking if at low rolling speed. 30% of the times a strong hit is heard as if some car is hitting from behind, this happens regardless choice was reverse or 1st gear. You would literally look at rear mirror. It shifts into parking even if speed is up to something like 5 km/h
- The moment you shift back into reverse or drive it will keep going back into parking and prevent you from driving.
Car lifted in workshop and following was noticed as per them:
- Particles of aluminum/metal shavings noted with in the oil pan (multiple small dots, nothing major). Oil brown and not bad.
- They tried replacing the whole control unit (Except its black ECU) with two other complete used units and problem still persist.
- They said the return hose of oil was too hot and recommended to replace heat exchanger + transmission thermostat + the whole gearbox with a used one. They suspected maybe the problem is from the heat or control box ECU damaged from heat or something else inside gearbox.
Now I am confused what to do every workshop just recommend to replace the whole gearbox because in here it is cheaper than fixing. Computer test (ISTA-D) reported transmission oil fluid temperature of 67 °C only while in parking for over 10 minutes with engine at 102 °C and error code was coming so it didn't flag high temperature and the control unit ECU seems to be communicating fine.
Please help.
When they had the valvebody down did they inspect the bridge seal?
@@GaryFerraro thx for fast response. No they didn't and the seals were never changed. Do you suggest trying to replace them first? Thx
@@See-5 I would look at that seal, if broken when hot the car will jump back to park
@@GaryFerraro Thank you I will replace them and keep you posted.
@@See-5 ok, sounds good
Great video Gary. Understand you are going through the valve body shortly, are there any key call outs on disassembly to ensure it goes together correctly. Thank you.
Make sure you get the correct plate code( example A053 or other side B053), Be careful when you lift the plate off where all the check balls are. When putting the 2 valvebody halves together, put a few bolts in and then install the TCM, that has the line up pins
Great video, thank you so much.
Hey Gary - firstly, your videos are incredible! Thank you. But, I made a mistake on the A drum. I did not mark the pieces before I rebuilt it. So no way of knowing how it goes back. The drum and planets went back together nicely and snapped back good. What are the concerns before I put the box back, that those pieces are not exactly the way it was before teardown? Feeling worried. Thanks man!
Thats ok, i just mark it for orientation of the planetary
@@GaryFerraro thanks for replying so quickly 👍. Okay so I'll be fine then. Was just stressed for a bit😂
Hey Gary i have a 2009 e70 x5 35d, i got my transmission rebuilt by a local shop because it slipped on clutch E under heavy wot and would have to pull over , restart and go again . Day after i got it rebuilt it did the same thing slipped again.... shop said they replaced clutchs , seals and cleaned up valve body. i check the code i got. 4F85
Did they replace the bushings? if not that is probably your trouble, that is the number 1 problem with this trans
@@GaryFerraro The shop said they replaced with sonnax bushings, could they be lying lol? This was supposed to be a full rebuild
Thank you, Gary.
Thanks for watching
Hey Gary! Thank you soo much for this amazing video!
I have the same problem of not being able to shift from 3rd to 4th gear. Error 4F89
I already have the Precision Raceworks clutch kit (propulsive dynamics). Maybe it's the bush you mentioned?
Replies to everyone with comments . Unexpected find this channel was. Where do you find the time.
Hi Gary, love your videos. Do you videos that shows us reassembling of auto gearboxes ?
Yep. I was just about to ask that same question. Thank you
No ESD wriststrap when handling the Mechatronic Unit? Careful prying out those large rings. Were you able to get readings of the clutch fluid pressure adaptions before teardown? Orange O-rings are Silicone Rubber. You want the new sleeves with Black Viton O-rings.
Gary VanRemortel I have the Snap-on scanner sometimes it shows them sometimes not. This had a pretty good 3-4 flare shift.
I’ve watched a number of your 6hp26 videos over the years. I did a full valve body and solenoid and bridge seal repair on my 2009 X5 3.0si (wasn’t aware it was a 6hp19 trans until this very video) with the same E-clutch monitoring codes….after that “lower end” repair 2 years ago and adaptation reset it acted brand new….for about 2 years and 25k miles.…and here I am again. Throwing the same clutch-e codes with a 4-5 flare only when car (trans) heats up. (Same issue I had 2 years ago) …..I’m looking to replace the rear stator bushing now. Would you advise to replace all the bushings? Every other gear, both upshift and downshift is flawless.
Thank you very much for all your videos. I have watched hours of them so far!
You probably would be fine with just the rear stator bushing, That is the seal for the E clutch apply oil
@@GaryFerraro after watching your 6hp19 tear down video I believe my method of repair is to replace the rear stator bushing like you always mention as well as the E-drum clutches/friction rings and possibly steels if they are burnt up. Where can I source the parts? I am in South Carolina.
Also, I saw on that 6hp19 video that there was a secondary, forward/support rear stator bushing… is that 6hp19 specific? Will I encounter that on my xdrive3.0 (AWD) X5?
Hello Gary, great video. I was wondering if I can swap from a 6hp26z to a 6hp28 by switching the mechatronix unit?
what years are the units, the 26 may be a Gen1 and the 28 may be a Gen2. If so you cannot
Thank you Gary. That is an eye opener for me. Your videos are more clear and easily understandable. I have the same issue on mine (ZF 6HP26Z) and I was thinking of just buying a second hand one and installing it on my E60 530d. I will then work on the faulty one at my pace after getting the rebuild kits. The only transmissions I come across out there are the ZF 6HP19 and ZF 6HP28. I was wondering if getting the second generation ZF 6HP28 is a good idea. Is it a plug and play installation with just programming/coding it to the car or is it much more complicated than that? Kindly advise. Your recommendations will be highly appreciated. Thank you once again.
If you have a Gen 1 unit. Gen 2 will not work
Pełen profesjonalizm lubie ten twój kanal :-) widac ze troche się znasz :-) pozdrawiam
Thank you
excellent video Gary, just a quick one Gary, when changing the clutches must i use the vernier caliper to measure the steels and the frictions on all the transmission but i am thinking that as far as the clutches and frictions got enough play. pls i need your advise. thanks
That really depends on the trans, clutches should be changed and if the steels are ok, put them back if they are burnt you will have to replace. If your for instance working on a honda with 5 clutch packs, you will need to measure the thickness and in some cases you will not need to
I have the same exact problems and code on my 7 series. I will drop it off to you soon.
Your in the New York Area?
Gary Ferraro Yes Gary I live in the area.
@@750gg My i ask if your on Long Island?
Gary Ferraro I’m in Brooklyn. I might be able to make it to you, just might have pull over and restart the car about 10 times. Gears are slipping, delayed drive shift,and jerky reverse shifting. I got the works!! It use to slip every so often. Now it’s every time I drive the car. It’s so frustrating. Car drives like a dream when the tranny is operating as designed. At this point I think I need a new transmission. I don’t know 🤔
I have a problem when I accelerate slowly, 6 is excellent, but when I stomp hard from 5 to 4, I experience a jolt in the gear
Hey . I have a bmw e60 and it has a 4f85 gearbox malfunction. If I change the oil and filter, the malfunction disappears or not?? please reply thanks
Hello Gary, I must say you are a master at the ZF transmissions. I have been watching your videos for a long time and have found them to be very educational. My transmission has been acting up for the last few months now. I have a 2007 BMW 335i It has the ZFHP19 transmission. The issue is when when the car pull off from a stop the engine speed up and the transmission engages with a light thud. Also as the car come to a stop, it comes to a stop with a slight thud.feels like if some one taps you in the rear. When I took it ion to a garage. They replace the bridge seal and the four black rubber tubes, new lifeguard 6 fluid (complete flush} and new filter. Unfortunately, the problem is still there. Any ideas of what ‘tis might be? I have 95,000 Kms (about 60,000 miles on the car) I appreciate any advice you could offer. Kind regards!
Can you tell me if any codes are present? also, does it do this when the car is cold and hot or only when hot?
Gary Ferraro, thank your response. There are no codes. It happens when it is cold and hot.
@@creativemischief5403 Do you have access to a scan tool? I'm Thinking of trying a shift adapt reset
Gary Ferraro yes i have access to an Autel Maxisys. I saw a video on RUclips outlining the adaptations reset. Is this what you are thinking of? I am attaching a link :- ruclips.net/video/nN78ukXXF_o/видео.html
Here is another video I saw: ruclips.net/video/KoIRHWDUSNU/видео.html. As with most videos on RUclips some of these videos provide inaccurate information...Thanks for you response. I also have INPA although I have never used it.
Hi there Gary, great video! I'm a beginner when it comes to gearboxes, and I currently have a e60 throwing 4F83: EGS Ratio Monitoring Clutch C. I've read through the comments and I don't see anyone having this code, mostly 4F85. Is this code uncommon? I haven't done anything, but I've ordered 4 seals and a new bridge adapter, and cleaned out each solenoid. Going to replace fluid and a new pan as well. Do you think this should solve the problem? Or am I looking at something much worse? Regards from Malaysia!
ok, so when you drive the car, what do you feel?
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary do you mind if I email you? It's kind of a long explanation, I'll email you the whole process. For anyone who's interested in this post you can email me, or once I get the problem solved I'll update here. darrenchang95@gmail.com
Hello Gary, thanks for your videos, Here in Portugal have lots off that gear box, i have a car shop, and i'm dealing with that code in a 6hp19z, se dont have many people working with that kind of beatbox, so i'm trying to repair it. I have a couple of question if you can help me. When you mount new clutchs you oild tem before ir not?! When gearbox is ready how you fill the oil before start the car?! Thank again for your great job.
I do not oil the clutches before i put them in the drum. The way you fill it is, With engine OFF add fluid untill it run out, install the plug, start the engine and fill again until it runs out, then it should be full, so first with engine OFF then add with engine RUNNING
@@GaryFerraro thank you so much, gretings from Portugal.
@@pauloferreira8214 Welcome, Greetings from New York
Hi Gary, thank you for the advices! How would you clean the burn / dark areas from clutch drum E?
I use a wire wheel
Hi Gary, is it possible to remove the stator without opening the gearbox? I just wanted to put the gearbox upright, take off the converter, remove the stator and change the stator bearing. I did not want to drain the oil and remove the mechatronics. If I remove the stator like this, do you think I'll damage the gland seal?
Greatings from Germany
The valvebody/ mechatronic has to come off to get the pump out
Okay, thanks a lot for your fast answer!
Have you bought the tool to knock out the statorbushing? I can't find it.
Hi Gary, I did the repair on Monday. Unfortunately, when the engine is running, transmission oil drips from the opening in the transmission bell. I think I didn't tighten the screws on the stator enough. On Saturday I will remove the gearbox again to check it. Do you know the correct torque for the screws that hold the stator to the gearbox?
@@matthiasmuster3144 Make sure the o-ring is good and the bolts that hold the pump to the case, the ones on the outside, they should all have a washer too. I tighten them to 100 inch pounds
Thanks for your quick help Gary. I will act on your advice and I hope I have removed the gearbox for the last time 😁.
Greetings from Germany
Hey Gary, I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge to the world!
I have 528 xi 2008 that is currently not shifting out of park showing Trans. Malfunction: The Malfunction may be resolved by restarting, Contact nearest BMW.
The Problem started after driving vehicle to work 5.5 miles. After returning to vehicle during lunch (5 hours later) vehicle would not shift out of park. After attempting to reset the transmission pressing and releasing the gas pedal vehicle shifted into gear and allowed me to drive home another 5.5 miles. When i exited the vehicle i left it running and returned in 20 minutes to the original problem of not shifting out of park. The error code the vehicle is reading fault code 4e22 electronic pressure control valve 3.
I have been looking into getting new solenoids for the vehicle. Just curious what you think could be the issue!
Thanks !
Either solenoids or the TCM, Common is solenoids shorted, need to drop out valvebody to ohm solenoids, get an OE solenoid kit and change them all if solenoid (EDS3) is shorted
Hey Gary I’m currently trying to purchase a valve body for the 528 bmw 2008. The valve bodies I’m finding only have 2.0L 2.5L and 3.0L
Does the 528 require a 2.8L valve body?
I have a 06 550i with 4.8l engine, with HP26Z transmission ( called dealer to verify ). Is there a difference between HP26 and HP26Z?
one may be rear wheel drive and one may be all wheel drive
Здраствуйте! У меня 8hp-45. Код ошибки 420401. И 420451. В интернете не нашёл обозначению этого ошибки. После капитального ремонта. Выходит этот ошибка. Если подскажите, то буду очень рад
Hi Gary, your video was very educational and has answered most of my question. Just wanted to run something by you, I have a BMW 530d 2009 plate. Has approx 170K miles, on the OBD the clutch E has come up as fault, goes into limp mode only on motorways, local road have no issues. Could I sort this out with a gearbox oils change? Or does it need to be striped and replaced? Also how much should I pay for this approx? Thanks.
Do you have a scanner that shows live data? Where are you located? Oil change probably won't help you. I would say either a solenoid problem or worn bushings
Gary Ferraro not sure what you mean by live data? I’m located in the UK otherwise I would have come to see you.
Hi Gary, the error codes - E Clutch 4F85, Gear monitoring coupling E. any other ideas?
@@sazyousaf9417 It is usually either a worn out rear stator bushing or a worn out e clutch, bushing being the most common problem
Gary Ferraro thanks, what should I pay approx for the repair? Been quoted £1800
Good night Gary Ferraro I changed the oil and the seals on my 6hp26 bmw and now I have the 4f90 error which can be thanks
Love your videos and have been watching several of the 6hp rebuilds.... I have a 335d "6hp28" and I plan to rebuild a spare transmission.... would you happen to know where one can find literature on how many fractions and steels are in each clutch and their orientation?
There is a company called ATSG(Automatic Transmission Service Group Owned by ETE Reman) they have a lot of books. I think there web site is ATSG.Biz
@@GaryFerraro thanks man!!! Wish I'd have known about you before I had my first 6hp rebuilt....... its still not shifting properly:-(
@@GaryFerraro would this be the book one would need for the 6hp28?
www.atsg.us/atsg/catalog/product/view/id/572/s/zf6hp21-28-tg/
@@gaboonviper85 I think that is more of a diagnostic guide, i honestly think they do not show breakdown of the trans
@@GaryFerraro yeah also seems it's based off the audi not the bmw:-(
Why so low resolution? This should be in 1080p, for viewing details... 😉🙂
This may have been with my old computer
i have a question about the weight of the transmission. I have similar code 4F85. The car wouldn't engage from 3 to 4th gear. I am wondering if the transmission is heavy to lift?
I would say about 250 pounds with converter
@Gary Ferraro hi i have a question i got a code 4F8A EGS (Electronic Transmission Control), Ratio Monitoring, Gearshift 4-5 what would that mean?
hi.Gary.my name is Daniel i'm from austria i'm a fan of yours i follow all your tutorials on you tube and i've done a lot of reps. thanks to you. but now I have a problem with a bmw x5 2016 gearbox. model 8HP72Z. it has the error code 421362...Gear ratio monitoring all clutches implausible and the oil is very dirty and has metallic coating. With two weeks a wash was done before but it didn't help. I checked the megatronic, all the valves are ok. I need your advice please
ok, this unit is full of oil? do you have a plastic or metal pan? what is the car doing? slipping?
Hi Gary, it has been a while since the last time I commented on your videos or asked you for valuable advice. it is very valuable to me because with it and by watching some of your videos I was able to rebuild my transmission on my 05 BMW 545i it's a ZF6HP26 6 speed automatic.
well I took it out for a test run and it ran great!, gears shifted smooth and all for first 200 miles, and today I just got a message of transmission malfunction on the I drive and the car jerked from 3rd to 4th. I pulled code 4F85, all steels and frictions were replaced as well as all seals and bushings, valve body intermediate plate and dampers were also replaced, New solenoids were installed too.
One thing I did not do since the valve body was from a different transmission was to program the control unit to my car's VIN #. Is this necessary to program the Mechatronics unit and the new solenoids
The valve body was from a 05 BMW 545 as well but different VIN # and all solenoids were new
I replaced the valve body and mechatronics unit because plastic was cracked.
What programming procedure was needed in this case Gary
I don't think that is your problem, how did the rear stator bushing fit onto the E drum, did it turn free?
does the problem happen hot and cold or only hot?
@@GaryFerraro It Fit real nice and tight no play and it turned free, the one bushing I messed up was one of the large bushings on the A drum, but I ordered another one and installed it. I made sure all fit nice and there was no play but they all turned freely, will take tranny down tomorrow, what should I look for when I tear it down? worn stator bushing? as far as if it happens hot or cold, I will need to drive car again cold since the times I drove the car I always got it up to operating temperature before starting the drive
trying to get it ready for smog, But I will take it for a spin and will let you Know,
Thank You Gary, Best Regards from So. Cal.
Hello Gary, just tore transmission down and in fact
Stator bushing was no where to be found also the A clutch smaller bushing spun on the stator looks like I will be installing those 2 bushings but
I need to check the fitment make sure it’s nice and tight.
One thing that I want to ask is that the oil pan is or was new
Original , I don’t think it can be reused since all the metal flakes from bushing was at the bottom of the pan, all other bushings look good.
Have you used a metal oil pan for this transmissions?
@@moytech5960 I have never made a switch like that, i think the X5 units come with a metal pan,
Hi. I love your videos. This made me try to fix my oil pump in my 6hp26 , The converter was rebuild and whend we try to remount everything we broke the oil pump. Issue is now i opened again the gearbox , and i found inside gearbox like under mechatronic , like a tiny PIN , that i have no ideea were in world it comed out from. I checked all diagrams for ZF , google , and i still have no clue. I dont know if you can help me , it would be much apreciate it.
send me a picture of it
gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hi Gary, i got a 6hp26x and got now 2 faults.
4F85 and 4F8C.
Doyou think is enough to change oil and filter or must i do more ??
Oil change will not help, but i would check the oil level. Does the car drive ok cold and fault when hot?
@Gary Ferraro i have a 35d with ZF GA6HP26Z. i have a cycling slipping problem in all the gears and at various speeds (cruising at light throttle only). Its like riding a horse... After changing oil, pan and the rubber seals in the mechatronics and pump i reset the adaptations and followed many times the adaptation instructions. BUT rapid fill times never got completely filled with values...
i had flares between 4-5 WOT (more in sequential than D or SD) since the reset.
Have any idea where the cycling (oil pressure i suppose) problem is and why i cant get the rapid fill times adapted?
BTW thank you for your videos, Best Regards
Nuno R It’s full of oil for sure? Is your problem mainly in the higher gears?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for answering!
I have filled it and followed the ZF instructions: iirc, i filled with oil, started the engine and filled some more until it dripped out.
Then watched the gearbox temp in the Diag and once it was in the correct ballpark, opened the fill plug and let it drain until only a very thin stream was running out. closed it. done.
I have blown air to get the most oil i could out of the tq converter (while the mechatronic was out). Should i have done a refill and level check after a few miles???
The problem seems to be in all gears, but yes most felt in higher gears. its like the torque converter solenoid PID is searching for the correct % of actuation...
by watching the teardown i realized this is a linear transmission....correct....if so did zf invent this
Yes, designed by ZF
Hello, I have the 4f8c code, I replaced the sleeves and adaptor, oil and oil pan, problem is that I have some vaico sleeves that seems thinner than Zf oem ones. NOW I ordered some Zf rebuild kit, including valve body seals, my car puts the transmision in failsafe mode after kick down between 5 and 6, what do you think, is the culprit non oem sleeves, thanks a lot
Did you have this problem before you worked on the car?
@@GaryFerraro no not at all , a bit off kicking between 1 and second gear, I also installed a new guibo and reset adaptation, it was the first time the code apeared but at low speed as the gear selector passed a bit after D (Gear lever had the sensasion it s not engaging so firm after adaptation reset) second time at high speed happend to enter in transmision failsaife code 4f8c
Problem solved, no error codes, never use other stuff like vaico or shitty aftermarket products. Managed to open the mecatronic and to change the valve body. Changed the sleeves, adaptor and fresh zf oil. Reset adaptations and all the gears change smooth, no clutch sleep. The slleeves from vaico manufacturer were not good and almost melted and obtured the holes. Never use other than oem zf parts, lesson hard learned, thank you.
@@adrianvalcaneant660 Thanks for the update, only OE agreed
Where did you ordered the zf build kit?
Hello, I'm getting code 4f85 only on highways, maybe once while driving 80km distance, in city driving i dont have any problem at all. And I feel it only happens when the AT is hot.
I already changed the oil pan, oil and inner seals, (drained fluid was fine and not burnt, no particles in the old filter) but this didnt fix the problem, do you think that i need change the clutch packs and ring seals? Thank you
Most common cause for this is a worn rear stator bushing
Hi Gary, Thanks for your videos!!! We have a 2007 2WD Lincoln Navigator and believe it has the 6HP26 trans. Did a fluild change to the Motorcraft SP fluid about 18 months ago. Recently, I've noticed loosing OD lockup in higher gears after driving for 30 or more minutes. Could you speculate? VIN is 5LMFU27537LJ18556. Thanks.
Will run vin. Any codes present for the trans
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, I have a slightly better than basic scan tool by Autel, it shows no codes in the TCM. I do have a couple other tidbits... Vehicle did have trans fluid change about 18 months ago with Motorcraft SP, but the adaptation values were not reset (Didn't know they might need to be done). Vehicle has ~150k miles (mostly highway / I'm not a light foot & not a heavy foot driver). I notice the trans seems to unlock from OD just as the load lightens, then the RPMs wander by as much as 600 rpm. Sometimes it will re-engage quickly, sometimes not. An example would be going up a very very slight incline when the OD is locked, then cresting the incline to level, it unlocks from OD. It is very subtle, when it comes out, but I notice it because I'm paying attention. Again, could you speculate? Is there anything I could try before pulling the Trans & TC? I know the bridge seal is a common part to replace, as are the 4 smaller seals above the valvebody. Either of those repairs would be easy for me to accomplish. But going any further into the trans is above my paygrade... LOL!
@@sasngang Since you have an Autel, can you go into data and look at the clutch fill times for the E clutch. Does this happen only going on incline ? It is a ZF6HP26
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary... thanks for your time and willingness to help. My Autel unit doesn't have that ability, it's a pretty basic unit. Can I get a few minutes of your time to chat by phone? I'd be happy to compensate you.
@@sasngang E-mail your info
gsferraro@yahoo.com
I have the same transmission but my transmission stumbles occasionally from first to second gear, and also when you get off the freeway coming down a slight hill to a stoplight sometimes the transmission makes a clunk between second and first gear. My independent mechanic did a update and a reset on my transmission but did not do the "relearn" drive. My car drove fine for a whole entire month then my issue started happening again again it's an occasional issue and there is no fault codes on the dash what do you think the problem is? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
Thank you in advance
How many miles on the car?
@@GaryFerraro 83k sorry about that lol
@@robertfaulkner7152 Well, you could have a solenoid problem or possible worn bushings in the transmission. Does the car shift ok cold and not ok hot?
@@GaryFerraro mostly does it when driven after first start, but sometimes it doesn't. Oddly enough when warm it might do it occasionally it's never constant. Even when cold, it might do it a couple times then stop for the rest of the day. It's strange. One time I had a slowed at an intersection rolled thru went to accelerate and felt a clunk so hard it shook me, I know come to a full stop before accelerating. It rarely ever does that.
Also never have checked the fluid level. I am the third owner of the car. I took it to a transmission shop, told me my fluid cap had a semi stripped bolt head, requiring to either remove the drive shaft or exhaust pipe to get to. Since there was a generic shop I declined.
Hi Gary can I conclude if my bushings are worn by looking diagnostic data? I mean gearbox pressure values. All are in range mostly negative values. Have codes 4F85, 4F82 and 4F8A. Any help would be appreciated. I have learn a lot watching your videos thx :)
All clutch fill times are good? is that what you looked at? Assuming you checked fluid level?
@@GaryFerraro Yesterday chanced solenoids, "DoubleD" sleeve gasket, four tube like seals under valve body and new fluid with pan but problem still exist in gears 4-5. Otherwise it was smoother shifting. Here are some values: Rapid fill time A 39ms, B 30ms, C 1ms, D 0ms and E 105ms. Filling pressure A -293mbar, B 12mbar, C -252mbar, D -48mbar and E -110mbar. Sure that E rapid fill is highest so could it be leaking pressure. Dont know what to think about it.
@@jarza_87 Does this only happen hot? when you installed new solenoids, you reset shift adapts?
@@GaryFerraro yes only hot this happens and yes presssure adaptations I reset. And tranny model is 6HP19
Certainly sounds like a bushing problem
Great video, thanks.
It would be even better if you had a bit better camera.
Ok, Thank you for watching
Mine goes in to safemode when solenoids are hot on 5 or 6 gear when l try to push the car hard sometimes or getting in the highway with a small hill it does it and is saying Ratio Monitoring Clutch E should. Any suggestions????
Sounds like the rear stator bushing is worn out.
Gary could you please explain how to remove the piston from the B-clutch.
I’m currently rebuilding one and this piston has me stumped. It looks like it needs to come up to relive spring tension.
Thanks, Mark in Australia
I show that in the video, depress the beville spring and get the top snap ring out, after that is out and the belville spring is out of the way, 2nd snap ring has to come out to get the balance piston out then the main piston will come out, may have to use air to blow it out
Gary Ferraro . I saw you do the C clutch which I have no problem with but didn’t see you do the B clutch piston.
@@MrM113A1 Start watching at 42:00 I go over the B clutch
Gary Ferraro thank you so much mate. I don’t know how I missed that. I was FFWD and Rewinding a lot though. Great videos Gary, you’ve been very educational for myself working from home. Thank you.
@@MrM113A1 No Worries, any questions just let me know. My e-mail is
gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hi gary my dad has a 6hp26 and there was a rattling knocking sound from the transmission when the car is in neutral and it got louder when in drive we teardown the transmission and there is nothing disturbing exept the bushings are a little worn could this problem be from the torque converter. No fault codes
very possible yes, did you listen to see where it was coming from before you pulled out the trans
Yes it was from the trans front side and when we checked the oil level the car was started and in park 1,2 liters of oil drained from the fill hole we checked it a few months ago and it was ok wasn't like that
@@ivostoykov13 may want to check the pump
We checked the pump everything looks normal but the torque converter has a weird ding sound when you shake it left and right
i have an e60 530d zf6hp26 with the 4f85 fault. It drives perfectly fine when cold but as it starts to warm up, the transmission faulty shows up on the idrive and the code is cleared once i restart the car. The code gets triggered on a downshift from around 60-80kmph and once the code has been displayed, it keeps reappearing on my trip frequently even if i restart the car and its temporarily fixed. What may be the issue?
That is usually a rear stator bushing worn out
@@GaryFerraro so how many hours of labour would that be to get it fixed because i dont have the tools nor the skillset required to fix it
@@akarshreddy1351 where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro India
@@akarshreddy1351 Would have to look online
Hi Gary… I have a 2007 Bmw 750li when on an incline the tranny goes into limp mode and goes into P by itself. If I’m not on an incline I can shift out of D and R without any problems drives as normal. I took it to an Indy and was told I was low on tranny fluid in which they topped off but the problem still exists. The vehicle Has 155k miles. When they pulled codes 4F81ratio monitoring clutch A was present. Any suggestions other than rebuilding the entire transmission valve body? The Indy quoted 3500
Possible Broken Bridge Seal
@@GaryFerraro yes it was cracked all the way through found new Indy charged 1300
the car was going on D then jumps to N or enters R and jumps to N
Did you have it scanned for codes? what kind of car?
How much do you charge to rebuild?
Could you pls give me an idea im also getting codes after a week of changed trans oil and filter 4f85 and 4f81..car almost doesnt move..hoping for you favorable response thank you in advance
Ok, first, did you use OE pan/filter? said Made In Germany?
Halo Gary I'm getting the same codes on my bmw too bt mine Dosent move at all I bought it like that idn if I replace the seal and oil would it fix it
Garry best video how to contact for rebuild on hp19?
where are you located?
Where can I find the e clutch part? I cant seem to find anywhere to buy one.
Which part are you looking for
How do I keep the longevity of these transmissions? I have a 04 545i with 85k miles (130k kilometers)
Don't follow BMW's maintenance schedule where they tell owners that the ATF is Life Time. Follow ZF recommendation for fluid change.
Yes, my car's (Jaguar S-Type, equipped with the same trans) workshop manual repeats the "filled for life" nonsense usual in the 2000s, but at least recommends a fluid change each 30.000 miles in case of "heavy use". ZF itself recommends changing the fluid at least every 100.000 km (around 60.000 miles).
Besides that driving habits may have an even bigger influence on the lifetime of an auto trans - if you abuse it, regular fluid changes won't help a lot...
I added this last sentence because you are a BMW driver (just kidding) 😎
hello how long do you put the new clutch in the oil bath
if you want to soak the clutches i would say about 20 minutes
I have 2008 528xi with transmission code 4E22 please can Help me with that
Pressure control solenoid valve 3 or EDS 3 may be shorted, you need to drop out the valvebody and ohm each solenoid
I have a 2009 bmw 335i 6hp19 trans and i got 4f89 and 4f8a fault codes. Searched online and im not sure what to do to fix it. Can someone help?
There is a bushing on the back of the pump, (rear stator bushing) It is very common for this bushing to wear out, when it does it causes E clutch apply oil to escape causing problems in 4th,5th and 6th gears
Same code but it only happenes when i hard accelerate
That is usually a worn stator bushing
Hey so I still have the code and code 4f83 car drives around fine slips every once in a while like when I’m going up a hill especially but really not often so recently the car wouldn’t go in gear so I bought another transmission and just switched the valve body I didn’t replace any sleeves seals or solenoids or reprogrammed the car and it drives just fine a friend of mine said I should service the valve body and the transmission should be fine my question to you is could that be possible without tearing down the transmission or replacing it
I have a 2006 BMW 750li, I want to buy the valve body spacer plate, but I don't know what model it is. How can I know before disarming? I appreciate any help
Where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro Las Vegas NV
@@franciscolavado5606 I can give you a number of a ZF distributor in CT, They may ask for the last 7 of your vin number to decode what transmission you have and what plate you may need.
@@GaryFerraro Today I disassembled the valve body, the nameplate is A053, and I found a place here in las vegas that has it. What fluid do you recommend? I previously used pentosin, but some mechanics have told me that it is not suitable. Thank you very much for your time.
@@franciscolavado5606 you will be fine with , it's like a clear fluid like the life guard?
The job doesn’t require all that work you must be rich if your shop is still working n business
Hi, I’ve got E90 318i with fault codes 4F80 and 4F86 which makes the car go into limo mode but works ok after a restart. Is the transmission dead or can it be repaired?
Any help is appreciated
Is it something that can be repaired off jack stands?
@@slengoslengaw8510 What are the definitions of those codes?
@@GaryFerraro 4F80 is Converter clutch to 0-n. - Switching type 6 to 6 0-n.
4F86 is translation monitoring Sympton circuit monitoring- Converter clutch regulated 0-n. - switching type switching type 5 to 5 0-n
@@slengoslengaw8510 what is year make and model, like to look these codes up
@@GaryFerraro it’s a 2008 and 318i. Appreciate your help Gary
can anyone with ZF6hp transmission in their car tell me if in the first minutes (cold start) they have FULL torque converter lockup in Sequential (M1,M2,M3,etc) or NOT ??? i mean in low revs 1000-2500rpms...
I'm Not sure, i would have to drive it with a scan tool, usually the converter does not get commanded on til the car heats up
Ok then its normal behaviour! It locks after a little warm up period.
Reasons why german cars are so expensive.
'Minor' upgrades mid year that no one would notice if nothing went wrong.
How much does this cost?
talking about a rebuild on this trans/
Where are you located?
Im in New York on Long Island. Are you in the new york area?
How to contact you?
Gsferraro@yahoo.com
Gsferraro@yahoo.com
I have a 48Fc code
Is that code ratio monitoring 5-6 shift?
@@GaryFerraro if im not mistaken but it will not engage in any gear now.
@@TheEndowed1 Ok, first, how is fluid level? Do you have E shift valvebody?
Any other codes present?
@@GaryFerraro im hoping its just the level lol havent check that yet, and its on a 745li which im guessing it has an e shift valvebody?