No it wasnt a hall sensor thats the fault it showed but you dont smell hall sensors, Not why his motor burned as he just put it thru some torture on a grueling ride but to other issues Ive seen recently You cant run an extreme amount of phase amps on a high turn motor they require less while lower turn motors need more power but dumping too many phase amps in your motor is a recipe for a burnt motor. Doesnt mean you cant run allot of power in watts but with a controlled amount of phase amps. The heat is a major factor but if your eye already having overheating issues you really need to pay more attention in this heat. higher turn motors coil wires are thinner because they have more turns but can't handle as much power for obvious reasons this is a quick explanation. I'll go over motor turns in more detail later. Now that's not 100 percent all of the reason obviously the that turns affect the motors impedance as well and that has a major effect on the efficiency but I it is a factor. again I'll go over now details in terms of rpms and power at a later date. see Tacticool Dennins complete video on his ch ruclips.net/video/EZ1fXmncrMU/видео.html
yeah, I have an independent temp gauge on my controller to monitor temps. I just didn't know my motor was heating up so much. I was in the back of the pack of a of Surrons, Talerias, some modded some stock. so it was a surprise when i just shut down. Going from a 2.5T to a 5T motor moved the heat from my controller to my motor.
@@tacticooldennis Not sure if yours is mounted internally but you already know how that goes you could add a real heat sink with fins like i did amazon sells them and add a fan but definitely need some space
Thanks for this fantastic information 👏 I learn something from you on your channel every time I switch onto your channel 👊your truly a Dr ! Of this new age extreme configuration e-bike , big up to the maximum E-bro💪👑
Nice Points Chris, Firm believer that it all comes down to a poor quality build. Mismatched parts, and people modding beyond there ability. In all the year's I have pushed hub motors NEVER ONCE have I burned the coils. You can go through all the details, but at the end of the day. A simple temp sensor, and proper tune solves this. Thermal roll back will save this issue. Everyone suddenly thinks they are pro-tuners with these controllers, disable all motor safeties. Soon as my motors hit the stator wiring rated temp I roll them back. It can, and will happen (Over heating) to almost everyone. It's how your controller is setup that will make or break your ride.
@BuildItTuneItEV True that Bro and Like you I have yet to burn a coil too and I'm running more power in my stock motor some guys run on they're high power motor. Those guys burning motors are like women that just drive the car, don't check the fluids, don't change the oil and ignore all the symptoms lol
Oh and yes that's why having top of line controller with good telemetry is worth gold they riding blind but even if I didn't have that good old fashion stopping testing with your hand feeling how hot your motor is at least checking stuff. They just ride willy nilly
@maximumchargeEV Thanks Bro I try to really help people get a understanding and honestly you can't explain or help people unless you fully get it yourself. Then there's the gatekeepers so I believe in unlocking them for anyone wiling to step thru
Greetings Dr I hope your ok, and your enjoying the summer, I hope your FZ fly battery that you are doing is going well, I hope can't wait for you to finish it , and show us the performance ( I still love the beast with a passion ) but I really dig the FZ fly ! Keep up your fantastic work bro 👏👊
And that is why you have a good controller with thermal rollback. For my application of climbing mountains I run 8T windings where torque is important not speed. What do you think about lithium pouch cells?
I heard that as far as the pouch cells i cant use them if your not running allot amps they may be fine but really High amps they all gas up havent seen any yet that dont under extreme presure and it would take too many to get a decent amount of discharge for what I wanna do if your not in need of massive amps I guess there ok.
FYI the motor on the wheel stand is not my RZ motor that is an extra motor someone gave me I think is smaller than mine I think it's a 2000w is not burned up I just used that for a visual 😅 I'm running almost 20kw on my stock 3kw and road 20miles on highway and my motor didn't burn up and it ain't gonna burn up lol
If the corcumference of the wheel is the same for 5t and sub5t and you drive hillclimb steady speed, 5t will be efficient and cooler than lower t motor. That is according to grin motor simulator. I have a 5t mxus 3k on 19" moto and thinking replacing stator with 3t for more speed but Im affraid that It would get hotter if I drive it hillclimb the same way as 5t.
thicker coils in the 3t so its not gonna burn and its not gonna have as much torque but you can turn the phase amps up to compensate unless your already maxed out
Do you do other work or know anyone who can make an adaptor to use an is mount pit bike brake on a post mount kke fork. I need better brakes atleast on the front
![Customer States & Mechanical Fails [Part 39]](/img/1.gif)
No it wasnt a hall sensor thats the fault it showed but you dont smell hall sensors, Not why his motor burned as he just put it thru some torture on a grueling ride but to other issues Ive seen recently You cant run an extreme amount of phase amps on a high turn motor they require less while lower turn motors need more power but dumping too many phase amps in your motor is a recipe for a burnt motor. Doesnt mean you cant run allot of power in watts but with a controlled amount of phase amps. The heat is a major factor but if your eye already having overheating issues you really need to pay more attention in this heat. higher turn motors coil wires are thinner because they have more turns but can't handle as much power for obvious reasons this is a quick explanation. I'll go over motor turns in more detail later. Now that's not 100 percent all of the reason obviously the that turns affect the motors impedance as well and that has a major effect on the efficiency but I it is a factor. again I'll go over now details in terms of rpms and power at a later date. see Tacticool Dennins complete video on his ch ruclips.net/video/EZ1fXmncrMU/видео.html
yeah, I have an independent temp gauge on my controller to monitor temps. I just didn't know my motor was heating up so much. I was in the back of the pack of a of Surrons, Talerias, some modded some stock. so it was a surprise when i just shut down. Going from a 2.5T to a 5T motor moved the heat from my controller to my motor.
yeah Id go back to that 2.5 T and work with the tune maybe add a heatsink or a fan what kind of controller
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 I have a Sabvoton 72200 and I have a USB fan I can run if needed. My battery is a stock panasonic cell 72-45ah
@@tacticooldennis Not sure if yours is mounted internally but you already know how that goes you could add a real heat sink with fins like i did amazon sells them and add a fan but definitely need some space
Thanks for this fantastic information 👏 I learn something from you on your channel every time I switch onto your channel 👊your truly a Dr ! Of this new age extreme configuration e-bike , big up to the maximum E-bro💪👑
Nice Points Chris, Firm believer that it all comes down to a poor quality build. Mismatched parts, and people modding beyond there ability.
In all the year's I have pushed hub motors NEVER ONCE have I burned the coils.
You can go through all the details, but at the end of the day. A simple temp sensor, and proper tune solves this.
Thermal roll back will save this issue. Everyone suddenly thinks they are pro-tuners with these controllers, disable all motor safeties.
Soon as my motors hit the stator wiring rated temp I roll them back. It can, and will happen (Over heating) to almost everyone. It's how your controller is setup that will make or break your ride.
@BuildItTuneItEV True that Bro and Like you I have yet to burn a coil too and I'm running more power in my stock motor some guys run on they're high power motor. Those guys burning motors are like women that just drive the car, don't check the fluids, don't change the oil and ignore all the symptoms lol
Oh and yes that's why having top of line controller with good telemetry is worth gold they riding blind but even if I didn't have that good old fashion stopping testing with your hand feeling how hot your motor is at least checking stuff. They just ride willy nilly
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 That is why you are a leader in the game bro!
Great video! Learned a lot!
@maximumchargeEV Thanks Bro I try to really help people get a understanding and honestly you can't explain or help people unless you fully get it yourself. Then there's the gatekeepers so I believe in unlocking them for anyone wiling to step thru
Greetings Dr I hope your ok, and your enjoying the summer, I hope your FZ fly battery that you are doing is going well, I hope can't wait for you to finish it , and show us the performance ( I still love the beast with a passion ) but I really dig the FZ fly ! Keep up your fantastic work bro 👏👊
Thanks for the info
And that is why you have a good controller with thermal rollback. For my application of climbing mountains I run 8T windings where torque is important not speed. What do you think about lithium pouch cells?
I heard that as far as the pouch cells i cant use them if your not running allot amps they may be fine but really High amps they all gas up havent seen any yet that dont under extreme presure and it would take too many to get a decent amount of discharge for what I wanna do if your not in need of massive amps I guess there ok.
First! You’re the GOAT Chris!!!
FYI the motor on the wheel stand is not my RZ motor that is an extra motor someone gave me I think is smaller than mine I think it's a 2000w is not burned up I just used that for a visual 😅 I'm running almost 20kw on my stock 3kw and road 20miles on highway and my motor didn't burn up and it ain't gonna burn up lol
If the corcumference of the wheel is the same for 5t and sub5t and you drive hillclimb steady speed, 5t will be efficient and cooler than lower t motor. That is according to grin motor simulator. I have a 5t mxus 3k on 19" moto and thinking replacing stator with 3t for more speed but Im affraid that It would get hotter if I drive it hillclimb the same way as 5t.
thicker coils in the 3t so its not gonna burn and its not gonna have as much torque but you can turn the phase amps up to compensate unless your already maxed out
Do you do other work or know anyone who can make an adaptor to use an is mount pit bike brake on a post mount kke fork. I need better brakes atleast on the front
Naw bro Not my style of riding so I could help you with that, you need to get with some dirtbike guys
Hall sensors don't post to do that
Did you not read the description that is was not a hall sensor thats the closest fault to motor phase issue as his system can define it.