Suggestion: You seem to use 4 terms to describe each coating's condition: Strong, Weak, Hangin’ in there, and Failed. But you never defined each term so close cases create indecision, like here. This likely also creates some inconsistency in comparisons. So I think you should pick yr terms and define them. My off the cuff suggestion may seem too rigid in the abstract but I think it works from watching this video: The criteria is how long does it take for ABOUT 50% of the test zone to repel the water: Strong= less than 3 seconds Weak= 3-10 seconds Hangin’ in there = 10-20 seconds Failed= more than 20 seconds. You can use fewer categories or adjust the time but I think that's a good starting point. Give it try before you laugh. I think it's easy to use and worthwhile. Thanks Scott for another great video!
What is the point of paying for a professional ceramic coating then? Unless all of these coatings come back after decon wash? Scott, have you got any update about what happens to these coatings after a decon wash ?
Interesting results. Opti Pro seemed kinda ignored this time (little focus on it). FYI my Opti Coat Pro+ had gone to sheeting behavior during the winter months, but a restoration wash (their mineral and iron remover followed by their rinseless wash) brought its hydrophobics back.
Gtechniq isn’t supposed to be hydrophobic with just the ultra coating, you have to apply a layer of their exo coating on top of the ultra for it to become the best coating in gloss and hydrophobic action
Scott, these tests are always intriguing, and your thoroughness is impressive...the inconsistency sometimes seen within a brand, or between tests, or between "professional" and amateur are surprising. I've been biding my time waiting for spring to treat my new Challenger to a coating, and some days I'm half convinced a spray like NuFinish Graphene or Griots 3-in-1 is a great way to go. Of the "long term" over-the -counter ceramics, it seems like the CQuartz, Diamond, Feynlab and Gyeon Mohs 2 are great performers, as good or better than many pros. Just out of curiosity, what do you think of Dallas Paint Correction's new DPC T3? His coatings were top performers in your other tests, but I haven't seen DPC here in a while.
What you have to remember Lucius is that you hopefully wouldn’t look after your coated car like these tests. Ideally, you would use an acidic shampoo once a quarter (or more, depending on conditions/mileage) and a fallout remover perhaps very 6 months. When used with a good shampoo, this would keep the coating surface fresh and unclogged and operating at a high level for a long time. You wouldn’t need to top the coating if you didn’t want to. An interesting test for Scott to do would be to run two identical sets of products on two different hoods, all high solids ceramic coatings and not sealant sprays. On one, he would test them as per his normal routine, but the other he would wash them with an ‘optimum’ wash routine. That would be using Feynlab Pure Wash instead of Honeydew, CarPro Descale every 3 months and a fallout remover every 6 months. Running this test would show how coatings last when looked after compared to how they last when potentially clogged.
@@roscopervis Everything you said is great except i would use IronX every 3 months instead of every 6 months along with Descale because my Superduty sits outside 24/7 in the sun and rain !
These tests definitely trigger “installers” who bought into the false marketing. They come in here to scream “you didn’t care for it properly! It’s still there” when regular ol coatings are getting the job done. Snake oil.
Definitely look at these like a "worst case scenario" for longevity. That said, we do have a few clients that basically have their cars treated like this (they sit outside in a driveway, washed once a month or sometimes less. Surprising to me considering they are paying $1500+ to have their car's paint corrected and coated by us.
@@ScottHD I think the "worst case" testing is invaluable. I'll ceramic coat my Challenger, but it gets garaged. My family daily drivers must be out all year round, in summer heat and winter snow and Chicagoland salt. I know you can't duplicate the salty roads there in Texas, but here it's a big issue. I'm curious if the brine up here wrecks ceramics by stripping or by fouling the surface.
i do the "lazy man's carwash". when rain is in the forecast i will leave the car outside, slather it with wash+wax liquid...looks ugly, but looks good after the rain. nothing amazing, but just look to remove dirt and provide protection. last several months as the car is garaged.
Your videos are by far the most realistic longevity tests on youtube and are unbelievably helpful. Could you possibly do the system X Renew at some point? Do you recommend any decontaminate products that will bring back the coating beneath and won't compromise them?
Why did the Technicians Choice 580 last 300 days in one test then 395 in the other? Thank You. I appreciate!!👍Also do you have any testing on the TEC 581 polish or the TEC582 spray? I just bought all 3. Thanks again..
Why label them failed when you know that the water spot remover will (likely) do so much to restore these? I think it would be better than waiting til the end when they've all "failed"
@@yftinthyn007 yes they would. There is more than one way of removing water spots. Shampoo, acids without protection…You don’t seem to understand the reason why the hydrophobics have stopped. When you figure that out, you will realise what is happening during the tests and why they work. Look up the Labocosmetica 3pH system.
@@roscopervis trust me. I’ve used ceramic coatings for many years. You can only “unclog” them once or twice before that process kills the coating. But of course, the out is always just adding a topper to “restore” the beading 🙄
@@yftinthyn007 you can unclog a ceramic coating as many times as it is needed, provided you do it properly. Again, it’s about understanding what has clogged them and how they can be unclogged.
Suggestion: You seem to use 4 terms to describe each coating's condition: Strong, Weak, Hangin’ in there, and Failed. But you never defined each term so close cases create indecision, like here. This likely also creates some inconsistency in comparisons. So I think you should pick yr terms and define them.
My off the cuff suggestion may seem too rigid in the abstract but I think it works from watching this video:
The criteria is how long does it take for ABOUT 50% of the test zone to repel the water:
Strong= less than 3 seconds
Weak= 3-10 seconds
Hangin’ in there = 10-20 seconds
Failed= more than 20 seconds.
You can use fewer categories or adjust the time but I think that's a good starting point. Give it try before you laugh. I think it's easy to use and worthwhile.
Thanks Scott for another great video!
I would call CP Gold a goner.
EVO pro graphene performing well and as expected 👍
You rock for making these test videos!
I just discovered your channel and I am really impressed with the work that you are doing to help educate the public!
What is the point of paying for a professional ceramic coating then? Unless all of these coatings come back after decon wash? Scott, have you got any update about what happens to these coatings after a decon wash ?
Interesting results. Opti Pro seemed kinda ignored this time (little focus on it). FYI my Opti Coat Pro+ had gone to sheeting behavior during the winter months, but a restoration wash (their mineral and iron remover followed by their rinseless wash) brought its hydrophobics back.
I just noticed that I skipped over it! Don't know how I missed that!
CP Gold has failed
Great test. I’d call them all dead. We all know we like beads. We all would have already reapplied to get those beads. Lol
so how do they advertise like 3 years etc for ceramic coatings
I’d be curious to see what happens if you decon/use that water spot remover. Love the videos as always!
Thanks! That will be done at the test end for sure.
@@ScottHD please don't end the test after removing mineral deposits, a lot of products will come back and we won't know how long they will last
Gtechniq isn’t supposed to be hydrophobic with just the ultra coating, you have to apply a layer of their exo coating on top of the ultra for it to become the best coating in gloss and hydrophobic action
Iron bath lets see it
Scott, these tests are always intriguing, and your thoroughness is impressive...the inconsistency sometimes seen within a brand, or between tests, or between "professional" and amateur are surprising. I've been biding my time waiting for spring to treat my new Challenger to a coating, and some days I'm half convinced a spray like NuFinish Graphene or Griots 3-in-1 is a great way to go. Of the "long term" over-the -counter ceramics, it seems like the CQuartz, Diamond, Feynlab and Gyeon Mohs 2 are great performers, as good or better than many pros. Just out of curiosity, what do you think of Dallas Paint Correction's new DPC T3? His coatings were top performers in your other tests, but I haven't seen DPC here in a while.
What you have to remember Lucius is that you hopefully wouldn’t look after your coated car like these tests. Ideally, you would use an acidic shampoo once a quarter (or more, depending on conditions/mileage) and a fallout remover perhaps very 6 months. When used with a good shampoo, this would keep the coating surface fresh and unclogged and operating at a high level for a long time. You wouldn’t need to top the coating if you didn’t want to.
An interesting test for Scott to do would be to run two identical sets of products on two different hoods, all high solids ceramic coatings and not sealant sprays. On one, he would test them as per his normal routine, but the other he would wash them with an ‘optimum’ wash routine. That would be using Feynlab Pure Wash instead of Honeydew, CarPro Descale every 3 months and a fallout remover every 6 months. Running this test would show how coatings last when looked after compared to how they last when potentially clogged.
@@roscopervis Everything you said is great except i would use IronX every 3 months instead of every 6 months along with Descale because my Superduty sits outside 24/7 in the sun and rain !
These tests definitely trigger “installers” who bought into the false marketing. They come in here to scream “you didn’t care for it properly! It’s still there” when regular ol coatings are getting the job done. Snake oil.
Definitely look at these like a "worst case scenario" for longevity. That said, we do have a few clients that basically have their cars treated like this (they sit outside in a driveway, washed once a month or sometimes less. Surprising to me considering they are paying $1500+ to have their car's paint corrected and coated by us.
@@ScottHD I think the "worst case" testing is invaluable. I'll ceramic coat my Challenger, but it gets garaged. My family daily drivers must be out all year round, in summer heat and winter snow and Chicagoland salt. I know you can't duplicate the salty roads there in Texas, but here it's a big issue. I'm curious if the brine up here wrecks ceramics by stripping or by fouling the surface.
i do the "lazy man's carwash". when rain is in the forecast i will leave the car outside, slather it with wash+wax liquid...looks ugly, but looks good after the rain.
nothing amazing, but just look to remove dirt and provide protection. last several months as the car is garaged.
Your videos are by far the most realistic longevity tests on youtube and are unbelievably helpful. Could you possibly do the system X Renew at some point? Do you recommend any decontaminate products that will bring back the coating beneath and won't compromise them?
Why did the Technicians Choice 580 last 300 days in one test then 395 in the other? Thank You. I appreciate!!👍Also do you have any testing on the TEC 581 polish or the TEC582 spray? I just bought all 3. Thanks again..
The CP Sport is very impressive. Since it is Kubebond, is that something I can buy and apply myself?
Absolutely - if you can find it these days. The US distributor disappeared so I don't know where to buy it anymore.
I'd be curious to see what would happen if you used carpro reset on that panel
It'll happen at the test end! Stay tuned!
@@ScottHD looking forward to it thanks scott!
Fail them
Ceramic Pro Gold has failed. Opti Pro 3 has failed.
Fail the last 2
Did you happen to try REVIVIFY CERAMIC PRO ("Self-healing) ?
Am I better off to just pay for a paint correction and then apply something like The McGwires hybrid myself? Anybody?
Which pro coating is the best now?
Why label them failed when you know that the water spot remover will (likely) do so much to restore these? I think it would be better than waiting til the end when they've all "failed"
Water spot remover doesn’t restore these. OP Spotless has protection in it. I bought some and verified it. 😊
@@yftinthyn007 yes they would. There is more than one way of removing water spots. Shampoo, acids without protection…You don’t seem to understand the reason why the hydrophobics have stopped. When you figure that out, you will realise what is happening during the tests and why they work. Look up the Labocosmetica 3pH system.
@@roscopervis trust me. I’ve used ceramic coatings for many years. You can only “unclog” them once or twice before that process kills the coating. But of course, the out is always just adding a topper to “restore” the beading 🙄
@@yftinthyn007 you can unclog a ceramic coating as many times as it is needed, provided you do it properly. Again, it’s about understanding what has clogged them and how they can be unclogged.
@@roscopervis the “proper way” being you add a topper… as always is the fallback.
Had ceramic pro gold on my truck 2years I’m not impressed 🙏✌️🇨🇦