My quick fix for scratches is a 3M Headlight restoration Kit. It comes with trizac pads and a small buffing wheel for use in a cordless drill. For most scratches I use a 3000 grit trizac pad and then follow with the enclosed buffing pads and compounds. It works fast and have used in many times at my carwashes for scratches. I end up buying a box of the small trizac pads and use my bottles of compound for polishing. The whole kit runs under $20
This is great. I've also always wondered if any of the "fancy" label products like Optimum, Pinnacle, Sonax, Wolfgang, CarPro, Blackfire, etc. compare against some of what I'd consider the more mainstream products like Meguiars, Turtle Wax, Chemical Guys, Griots, Adams, Mothers, etc. for things like waxes, polishes, compounds, etc. While I appreciate the awesome coatings testing, I hope you do more with waxes, polishes and compounds in the future too. Great work. Also, tell us how to support you, @ScottHD, without purchasing product? I don't need any of these but like what you do. Thanks!!
Absolutely. I plan on it in the future! Trying to devote more time to videos like this for my channel this year (in addition to the usual monthly updates/hood tests). Easiest way to support that doesn't cost you a dime: help out the almighty algorithm. Like/watch the video for 75-100% of the total time (100% is of course best), and commenting on that video. If you'd like to financially support it, ways to do so are usually in the video description of every video. Rest assured it is appreciated!
Totally confusing on Carfidant, you initially said A+ for hand polishing but your completed guide says a C for light scratches. Seems overall all suck for non professional usage. 125 bucks an hour is not cheap. I simply need something that removes oxidation. Local shop wants 1,200.00 to repaint my hood. No wonder we all go crazy with this crap. 😢
1st thing I noticed is when you labeled your scratches on blue tape, well, you used blue pen or marker , it was hard to read, black sharpee worx best.😊 Just saying. D
Some of the OEM touch-up paint pens I've seen come with clear coat as well. Do you generally put that on top of a repair once the paint is sanded and polished, or just stick with the paint?
Yes it isn't a bad idea. I've done it both ways. It depends on what the client wants. If they are getting a scratch repaired to sell the vehicle, usually not. Just "get the scratch out" is what they'll tell me. If it's an exotic or something they want to keep longer term (like more than a few years), I usually will add clear on top and continue to wet sand down smooth
Dr Colorchip works well for me, you put the paint next to the chip and squgee it in. I let it sit longer then 5 mins most of the time to ensure it doesn't lift out.
Loved the hand vs polisher graded scale. It made very clear that powered tool makes a huge difference. do you think the drastic difference in some of those products could be done with a cordless drill or is a higher RPM polisher needed?
I used the dr. colorchip kit for some rock chips and had the same issue. Ended up wrapping a piece of the cloth around the squeegee like a block and that helped keep it in the chips. Didn't work on the one scratch I have though. I heat gun also helps a bit with deeper chips.
Dr Color Chip. Have struggled as well. Best results came from using the eye dropper tool that comes with the kit. Allows enough mild up to use the leveling product without removing all the paint. Best Dr. Color Chip results using on light curb rash alloy wheel. Used 300 grit then Dr Color Chip on the wheel.
Great video ! Great job ! When using the touch-up pen, is there a need to use a varnish pen? Manufacturers provide double touch-up pens (paint and varnish in 2 different pens).
Love the testing and will put it to use! How would this testing relate to RV/boat fiberglass? Tree branches big and small have done a number on my trailer over the years!
RV (depends on what it is) will either have single stage paint (and usually very thin), a base/clear like automotive paint, or a gelcoat typically on fiberglass.. they all will respond differently, but the gelcoat is usually a lot harder to get the imperfections out.
Way back in college I had a Black 89 Daytona Z. From 20 foot or wet it looked good, but from 5 feet you could see it really had a lot of chips, light scratches and scuffs. So I came across some "as seen on tv" Carnauba Wax that was colored to match the car color. I applied it as my friends and I laughed - but to everyone's surprise it worked really well. Epically on deep scratches and big chips with no paint like your medium and deep here - it just filled them in with black shiny wax. You could still see them on inspection but eliminating the color difference made a big difference. It even actually made the paint appear a deeper black - and shiny! Problem was, LMAO, it all came off as soon as you washed the car with soap! But still, if yr paint is rough, and yr broke, it's a great bang for your buck. I would be interested to see how it compares to the products here - from 10 feet!
I remember that infomercial!!! I think I tried it on my father's 1980 Corolla wagon (single stage red paint) and the colored wax was much darker than the rest of it, but it did technically work!
@@ScottHD Yeah - they still make it. Check out "the treatment color enhanced car wax" - still "as seen on tv"! Other brands are around. Maybe it's a video - try a few same type products on the same black hood? I think maybe this has a place for some - in a pinch or for short term until a proper fix.
I like the idea of wipe on clear coat used in Turtle wax hybrid scratch repair kit, which repairs light scratch while preserving clear coat. Clear coat of car nowadays is so thin.
Headlight Restoration kits for paint scratch repair next! They often have sanding, buffing, and sometimes clear coat elements, similar to professional paint repair.
My quick fix for scratches is a 3M Headlight restoration Kit. It comes with trizac pads and a small buffing wheel for use in a cordless drill. For most scratches I use a 3000 grit trizac pad and then follow with the enclosed buffing pads and compounds. It works fast and have used in many times at my carwashes for scratches. I end up buying a box of the small trizac pads and use my bottles of compound for polishing. The whole kit runs under $20
Oh yeah! The 3M kit is a fantastic go-to.
Good to hear you've had repeated success, that's exactly what I had in mind for a few scratches and already have that 3m headlight kit.
For paint?
The cheapest option is to park at the back of the parking lot far away from the door 🏃♂️
This is great. I've also always wondered if any of the "fancy" label products like Optimum, Pinnacle, Sonax, Wolfgang, CarPro, Blackfire, etc. compare against some of what I'd consider the more mainstream products like Meguiars, Turtle Wax, Chemical Guys, Griots, Adams, Mothers, etc. for things like waxes, polishes, compounds, etc. While I appreciate the awesome coatings testing, I hope you do more with waxes, polishes and compounds in the future too. Great work. Also, tell us how to support you, @ScottHD, without purchasing product? I don't need any of these but like what you do. Thanks!!
Absolutely. I plan on it in the future! Trying to devote more time to videos like this for my channel this year (in addition to the usual monthly updates/hood tests).
Easiest way to support that doesn't cost you a dime: help out the almighty algorithm. Like/watch the video for 75-100% of the total time (100% is of course best), and commenting on that video.
If you'd like to financially support it, ways to do so are usually in the video description of every video. Rest assured it is appreciated!
Totally confusing on Carfidant, you initially said A+ for hand polishing but your completed guide says a C for light scratches. Seems overall all suck for non professional usage. 125 bucks an hour is not cheap. I simply need something that removes oxidation. Local shop wants 1,200.00 to repaint my hood. No wonder we all go crazy with this crap. 😢
1st thing I noticed is when you labeled your scratches on blue tape, well, you used blue pen or marker , it was hard to read, black sharpee worx best.😊
Just saying. D
What is that hand held machine you're using at 21:57? You didn't say anything about it.
Hi Scott, IMO if the coating shows no obvious life after 3 seconds it is failed...
Some of the OEM touch-up paint pens I've seen come with clear coat as well. Do you generally put that on top of a repair once the paint is sanded and polished, or just stick with the paint?
Yes it isn't a bad idea. I've done it both ways. It depends on what the client wants. If they are getting a scratch repaired to sell the vehicle, usually not. Just "get the scratch out" is what they'll tell me. If it's an exotic or something they want to keep longer term (like more than a few years), I usually will add clear on top and continue to wet sand down smooth
Going to sound stupid, but I had some Meguairs Plastic X lying around and tried it.
Works very well for paint scratches, and stupid fast.
Fantastic. I think the majority of these types of products are just a variable of a compound or polish (which is exactly what we would expect)
Quick advise. Seek professional help and pay the price.
Dr Colorchip works well for me, you put the paint next to the chip and squgee it in. I let it sit longer then 5 mins most of the time to ensure it doesn't lift out.
I'm going to play around with it more. 5 minutes definitely didn't work, but I see many with success with it.
Very informative Scott! Keep up the good work!
Loved the hand vs polisher graded scale. It made very clear that powered tool makes a huge difference. do you think the drastic difference in some of those products could be done with a cordless drill or is a higher RPM polisher needed?
I think a drill may do it, but finishing without holograms would be tricky for most.
Edit>> meaning finishing with a drill, not random orbital/DA
The crest tooth paste is my favorite but I always floss regardless. But for my car I use McGuires
I use sensodyne my paint is sensitive 😁
Haha.
I used the dr. colorchip kit for some rock chips and had the same issue. Ended up wrapping a piece of the cloth around the squeegee like a block and that helped keep it in the chips. Didn't work on the one scratch I have though. I heat gun also helps a bit with deeper chips.
Dr Color Chip. Have struggled as well. Best results came from using the eye dropper tool that comes with the kit. Allows enough mild up to use the leveling product without removing all the paint. Best Dr. Color Chip results using on light curb rash alloy wheel. Used 300 grit then Dr Color Chip on the wheel.
Good to know! I'm going to play with it some more and see if I can get better with it.
I wonder if there's a Nano Gone scratch remover
Great video ! Great job !
When using the touch-up pen, is there a need to use a varnish pen? Manufacturers provide double touch-up pens (paint and varnish in 2 different pens).
It's not a bad idea. I've done both but never had an issue with either long term.
Love the testing and will put it to use!
How would this testing relate to RV/boat fiberglass? Tree branches big and small have done a number on my trailer over the years!
RV (depends on what it is) will either have single stage paint (and usually very thin), a base/clear like automotive paint, or a gelcoat typically on fiberglass.. they all will respond differently, but the gelcoat is usually a lot harder to get the imperfections out.
Basically, most snake 🐍 cream scratch removal products don't really help.
Especially after a month later, when washed off.
Way back in college I had a Black 89 Daytona Z. From 20 foot or wet it looked good, but from 5 feet you could see it really had a lot of chips, light scratches and scuffs. So I came across some "as seen on tv" Carnauba Wax that was colored to match the car color. I applied it as my friends and I laughed - but to everyone's surprise it worked really well. Epically on deep scratches and big chips with no paint like your medium and deep here - it just filled them in with black shiny wax. You could still see them on inspection but eliminating the color difference made a big difference. It even actually made the paint appear a deeper black - and shiny!
Problem was, LMAO, it all came off as soon as you washed the car with soap!
But still, if yr paint is rough, and yr broke, it's a great bang for your buck.
I would be interested to see how it compares to the products here - from 10 feet!
I remember that infomercial!!! I think I tried it on my father's 1980 Corolla wagon (single stage red paint) and the colored wax was much darker than the rest of it, but it did technically work!
@@ScottHD Yeah - they still make it. Check out "the treatment color enhanced car wax" - still "as seen on tv"! Other brands are around. Maybe it's a video - try a few same type products on the same black hood? I think maybe this has a place for some - in a pinch or for short term until a proper fix.
3m is very. I haven't used Meguirs yet but I've used it to wax my cars and it's great. I like mothers too. Thanks for the video.
Seems to me that the only thing I learned is that using a machine adds defects to the paint. It’s why Im paranoid about buying and using a machine.
So, nothing removes zipper scratches but a new paint job
Thank you for all of these great videos. I oftentimes won't make a purchase till I see what you have tested and researched .
Much appreciation sir
I like the idea of wipe on clear coat used in Turtle wax hybrid scratch repair kit, which repairs light scratch while preserving clear coat. Clear coat of car nowadays is so thin.
Great thanks. I like your ethos.
Headlight Restoration kits for paint scratch repair next! They often have sanding, buffing, and sometimes clear coat elements, similar to professional paint repair.
Absolutely. That's in the plans this year. I plan on getting a number of headlights from the junkyard next trip for some hoods.
Thanks
Fantastic! Thanks!🎸😃
great video!