I have been spending hours watching nearly all of your fantastic videos. I would love to see a video which explains HVAC diagnostics. For example why when SubCool and SuperHeat is both high or both low it reflects XYZ.
@@love2hvac thank you so much! To be more clear of what I am asking is looking at the diagnostic chart like what is found here... www.hvacrschool.com/the-5-pillars-of-residential-ac-refrigerant-circuit-diagnosis/ What is happening inside the HVAC to cause these symptoms. If refrigerate is low it causes more of X which means Y will result. Hopefully I am making some sense.
Bryan or is a very talented friend of mine and that is a great resource. I have one similar that simplifies it but airflow has to be established first. It is in a box here somewhere.
I’m having issues, I changed the gas valve and the igniter glows and the gas valves releases gases through the pilot tube but the pilot won’t light. Is there a solution for this? I’ve blew through the pilot tube and it’s not clogged
Even on a 90+ Furnace, what could be used to safe guard the system in the event the gas valve does not completely shut off the gas flow once the thermostat calls the control board to shut off the heat?
The combination gas valve has 2 redundant valves in series inside. For it to stay open both would have to fail. Also the co tool board monitors the flame sensor. If it senses a flame present it keeps the induce draft motor running and keeps the blower running also. Also the way the board is wired the 24 volts from the thermostat "w" wire passes threw the board to the combination gas valve. So even if the relay in the control board stuck closed the thermostat would also have to stick closed or a short from R to W in the thermostat wires AND a stuck closed relay in the board. Anything possible but it's highly unlikely and very well thought out.
@@love2hvac Thank you for your reply. I asked because this happened to a neighbors house's furnace many years ago. Lucky he was home and had a sprinkler system in the attic which put out the fire which melted the furnace. A report indicated that possible root cause was stuck gas valve and zinc gas pipes. This is all the more reason, proper installation and seasonal maintenance of such items as the flame rod and roll out sensors are vital in any system. Your instructional videos are very informative and educational. Many of my colleagues starting out in the HVAC field as installers greatly appreciate and benefit from them. Keep up the great presentations.
@@TheRealoldcar zink flakes from galvanized pipe has been a concern for some time. Yet so many people still promote it. A proper drip leg is suppose to catch any debris before the gas valve including the sink flakes. If the flakes built up and kept one valve open it's possible for them to continue to flow and eventually keep the second from setting all the way too. In that case it would bot stick open but leak. This would not be enough to maintain a flame so the flame sensor would bot sense the flame and the unit would not know. The gas would build up to an ignition source and then ignite. Multiple fail points here. Nobody ever raised concern over the galvanized pipe. No inspection of the drip/dirt leg. Service tech did not check for 100% shit off. Unfortunate strikes g of event. Luckily they saved the house and hopefully nobody was injured! Tecks say "I've been doing it this way for ___years and never had a problem." Its not until it is. Thank you for sharing that with me. Those accounts are important to share. I would love a copy of the report with names and addressed blocked out. It might make a good safety video this winter.
@@love2hvac I wish I could get hold a report as a lesson learned from my younger colleagues also. This is what I find unique about your YT channel and your presentations, you get to point, the nuts and bolts, and provide real world experiences and practices. I am so impressed that I subscribed yesterday after watching just one of your vids. Just enough detail and no fluff. I can see why so many school instructors show your vids to their class. Your teaching often makes the viewer feel like they are on a job site. Plus i notice from one of your videos, (you were talking about what if something could additionally cool the liquid line after the condenser with another means), that you think "OUT OF the BOX"; regarding HVAC technologies. The best parts is when something goes wrong on your presentation material; that happens to us everyday in this field. Keep up the great work.
Rookie question: what size fuse should go on the low voltage side when replacing transformer? also what are some of the key components that would also need addressing if a 80% was replaced by a 90+ ?
3 amp is usually fine, some units require a 5 amp. 80-90 you will down size the furnace. A heat load. Should be performed anyway. You will replace the flue pipe with PVC all the way out following the manufactures instructions. And you will need a PVC air intake pipe. You will need an acid neutralizer for the condensate and a place to drain the condensate so it will not freeze.
The video is not focused in an angle that we can see the area clearly, the explanation is clear and understandable but again the angle is not the best sadly.
i got myself in a mess.. i changed the thermostst and when i turned on power nothing worked .. i put back the old one and nothing works except the blower runing all the time, changed the board and same thing...now i am convinced its the smart valve circut is out there power on the main board going to thermostat and to smart valve , the inducer isnt getting power from the gas valve but power is being sent to the same inducer connector from the main board
That tool is a waste of time and money. That gas valve is garbage just like everything else honeywell makes, and if anyone see's one replace it immediately with the pilot assembly. You will get an up graded valve same brand a little better but not by much. Right were the pilot wires clip in at on the top of the valve will get water , condensation etc. Water can come from a plugged evap/coil, condensation from location etc. Matter of fact just sell them a new furnace. I was on a call years ago the lady said it sounds like her furnace is exploding, I am like yeah ok. She is standing off to the side I have the cover off and cycle. Pilot lights, gas valve opens working. I did this like 20 times. She is like I am not crazy. So I turn it on again we are talking and I hear the gas come on look down and no pilot, As I was reaching for the power switch it lit and BAMMMMMMMMM! I was like JESUS CHRIST. New gas valve and pilot assembly.
I agree, I never liked them. I bought the over priced kit many many years ago before I knew how to diagnose them. Direct ignition, DSI or HSI is the way to go. I suspect they had a hole bunch of these cast pilots and thought let's just modify them. Holly cow I have not heard of one exploding like that! I would love to have that on video. Thanks for the comment. It's nice to see someone with the same dislike for them!
@@love2hvac HELLO Great video learned alot i have the same unit model but a guy a few years ago some how put a electric spark to like the pilot never work after that . another guy came out turned my gas off said it was unsafe now im stuck with no heat need your help what can i do with low cost i was a master car tec retired now on ssi can do the work myself with some guided advice knowledge..that video was awesome..yeah i have the honeywell valve and board love to show you a picture of it to see what parts maybe put it back to factory spec's thanks
Thank you so much for all of the great new content 👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent excellent work Mr. Branaman. You are a great asset to our community sir.
I concur
TY, great educational video . Thanks for sharing your knowledge.👍
You are the best instructor!!! Would you like to make videos about fireplaces? How does it work and troubleshoot them.
Great videos. Thanks for sharing
Real helpful, thanks for the vid.
Excellent!
Nice demo!
I have been spending hours watching nearly all of your fantastic videos. I would love to see a video which explains HVAC diagnostics. For example why when SubCool and SuperHeat is both high or both low it reflects XYZ.
I can do that.
@@love2hvac thank you so much!
To be more clear of what I am asking is looking at the diagnostic chart like what is found here...
www.hvacrschool.com/the-5-pillars-of-residential-ac-refrigerant-circuit-diagnosis/
What is happening inside the HVAC to cause these symptoms. If refrigerate is low it causes more of X which means Y will result. Hopefully I am making some sense.
Bryan or is a very talented friend of mine and that is a great resource.
I have one similar that simplifies it but airflow has to be established first. It is in a box here somewhere.
I’m not getting 24 volts to my igniter. The gas valve is only putting out 1.1 volts
plugs on the GV get loose, you can re solder the plug pins on the control board.
I’m having issues, I changed the gas valve and the igniter glows and the gas valves releases gases through the pilot tube but the pilot won’t light. Is there a solution for this? I’ve blew through the pilot tube and it’s not clogged
You may have air in the lines. It takes a while to bleed it out
Even on a 90+ Furnace, what could be used to safe guard the system in the event the gas valve does not completely shut off the gas flow once the thermostat calls the control board to shut off the heat?
The combination gas valve has 2 redundant valves in series inside. For it to stay open both would have to fail.
Also the co tool board monitors the flame sensor. If it senses a flame present it keeps the induce draft motor running and keeps the blower running also.
Also the way the board is wired the 24 volts from the thermostat "w" wire passes threw the board to the combination gas valve. So even if the relay in the control board stuck closed the thermostat would also have to stick closed or a short from R to W in the thermostat wires AND a stuck closed relay in the board.
Anything possible but it's highly unlikely and very well thought out.
@@love2hvac Thank you for your reply. I asked because this happened to a neighbors house's furnace many years ago. Lucky he was home and had a sprinkler system in the attic which put out the fire which melted the furnace. A report indicated that possible root cause was stuck gas valve and zinc gas pipes. This is all the more reason, proper installation and seasonal maintenance of such items as the flame rod and roll out sensors are vital in any system. Your instructional videos are very informative and educational. Many of my colleagues starting out in the HVAC field as installers greatly appreciate and benefit from them. Keep up the great presentations.
@@TheRealoldcar zink flakes from galvanized pipe has been a concern for some time. Yet so many people still promote it. A proper drip leg is suppose to catch any debris before the gas valve including the sink flakes. If the flakes built up and kept one valve open it's possible for them to continue to flow and eventually keep the second from setting all the way too. In that case it would bot stick open but leak. This would not be enough to maintain a flame so the flame sensor would bot sense the flame and the unit would not know. The gas would build up to an ignition source and then ignite.
Multiple fail points here.
Nobody ever raised concern over the galvanized pipe. No inspection of the drip/dirt leg. Service tech did not check for 100% shit off. Unfortunate strikes g of event. Luckily they saved the house and hopefully nobody was injured!
Tecks say "I've been doing it this way for ___years and never had a problem." Its not until it is.
Thank you for sharing that with me. Those accounts are important to share. I would love a copy of the report with names and addressed blocked out. It might make a good safety video this winter.
@@love2hvac I wish I could get hold a report as a lesson learned from my younger colleagues also. This is what I find unique about your YT channel and your presentations, you get to point, the nuts and bolts, and provide real world experiences and practices. I am so impressed that I subscribed yesterday after watching just one of your vids. Just enough detail and no fluff. I can see why so many school instructors show your vids to their class. Your teaching often makes the viewer feel like they are on a job site. Plus i notice from one of your videos, (you were talking about what if something could additionally cool the liquid line after the condenser with another means), that you think "OUT OF the BOX"; regarding HVAC technologies. The best parts is when something goes wrong on your presentation material; that happens to us everyday in this field. Keep up the great work.
Rookie question: what size fuse should go on the low voltage side when replacing transformer? also what are some of the key components that would also need addressing if a 80% was replaced by a 90+ ?
3 amp is usually fine, some units require a 5 amp.
80-90 you will down size the furnace. A heat load. Should be performed anyway.
You will replace the flue pipe with PVC all the way out following the manufactures instructions. And you will need a PVC air intake pipe.
You will need an acid neutralizer for the condensate and a place to drain the condensate so it will not freeze.
14:03 - Can you provide a copy of the wording of the waiver you have customers sign?
The video is not focused in an angle that we can see the area clearly, the explanation is clear and understandable but again the angle is not the best sadly.
what brand is that meter?
i got myself in a mess.. i changed the thermostst and when i turned on power nothing worked .. i put back the old one and nothing works except the blower runing all the time, changed the board and same thing...now i am convinced its the smart valve circut is out there power on the main board going to thermostat and to smart valve , the inducer isnt getting power from the gas valve but power is being sent to the same inducer connector from the main board
Usually means a blown fuse on the board.
Unlikely the valve, usually a loose connection on the valve more than anything.
Odds are you grounded your wires when changing the stat and blew the fuse on the control board
Use your finger Ty. Touch it.
I did once many years ago haha that's how I know!
P is
That tool is a waste of time and money. That gas valve is garbage just like everything else honeywell makes, and if anyone see's one replace it immediately with the pilot assembly. You will get an up graded valve same brand a little better but not by much. Right were the pilot wires clip in at on the top of the valve will get water , condensation etc. Water can come from a plugged evap/coil, condensation from location etc. Matter of fact just sell them a new furnace. I was on a call years ago the lady said it sounds like her furnace is exploding, I am like yeah ok. She is standing off to the side I have the cover off and cycle. Pilot lights, gas valve opens working. I did this like 20 times. She is like I am not crazy. So I turn it on again we are talking and I hear the gas come on look down and no pilot, As I was reaching for the power switch it lit and BAMMMMMMMMM! I was like JESUS CHRIST. New gas valve and pilot assembly.
I agree, I never liked them.
I bought the over priced kit many many years ago before I knew how to diagnose them.
Direct ignition, DSI or HSI is the way to go. I suspect they had a hole bunch of these cast pilots and thought let's just modify them.
Holly cow I have not heard of one exploding like that! I would love to have that on video.
Thanks for the comment. It's nice to see someone with the same dislike for them!
@@love2hvac HELLO Great video learned alot i have the same unit model but a guy a few years ago some how put a electric spark to like the pilot never work after that . another guy came out turned my gas off said it was unsafe now im stuck with no heat need your help what can i do with low cost i was a master car tec retired now on ssi can do the work myself with some guided advice knowledge..that video was awesome..yeah i have the honeywell valve and board love to show you a picture of it to see what parts maybe put it back to factory spec's thanks
Hate these valves also, just had to change 1 on a hanging heater in a shop 2 days ago