I have been building industrial pressure washers for 40 years. I’ve always had problems getting the pilot light to stay on. I’m going to try this auto pilot method. The only difference is I am using a burner that requires 400,000 BTUs. The theory should work. My customers will be happy if I am successful. Thanks for the great content!
Best part when you explain how it works and how to troubleshoot it. I’ve become so good at my job cus of your channel and now I’m on the process of preparing for contractor license
I started watching Craig’s channel 2 years ago while working as an apartment maintenance technician. Today I’m a lead residential sales and service tech at a reputable company in my state. This channel is GOLD.
@misfitpilgrim7967 heck yeah, good on ya. I do not think I've been onto these guys for much more than several months. Pretty much everything is on point, and I'm a field service tech who loves continuing education[for whatever that is worth]. Sometimes, I learn a trick or 2 here, but I always get a good reminder of professionalism and how to relax and go through the motions of testing.
I showed up to a furnace recently installed by someone else. Diagnosed a bad board, got a new board in, discover a rollout switch also triggered. Got the furnace running; the combustion is TERRIBLE. Weak, orange, pungent flame. Check gas pressures; they are perfect. Finally realize this thing is trying to burn LP and doesn’t have a conversion kit 😅
Just wanna thank you so much for all this amazing videos you’re making for us as technicians to gain more knowledge and serve the customers better. God bless you I’ve learned so much from your channel.
It amazes me still the amount of knowledge people are willing to share this is a very similar setup with my old furnace and I’m diagnosing a strange condition where it’s trying to start but can’t like the step where it has lit the pilot but isn’t opening the gas valve. It will retry and eventually start so that’s odd 🙁. It is in need of replacing but I’m trying to get it through to the summer 😂
is there supposed to be 10,000 volts on the ground wire coming back to the control module? I thought ground wires are only supposed to carry the current back? You have the best HVAC videos on RUclips
Hey question forya craig, on the setups with the seperate flame rod completing circuit back to the sense terminal, what amperage is good/bad coming back to the control? Is it pretty much the same as an hsi setup where you want to see at least 4ma?
Good morning, excellent explanation and I like your videos, you know a lot, I have a question about my furnice, when it calls to turn on the sparks it clicks for 30 or 40 seconds and it turns on and works well, what could be the reason, thank you
Good video craig, these days at least in my area we dont see many intermittent spark systems,seems like everything is hsi now. So its good to teach this because its not really taught enough and when a newer tech comes across one they have no clue the sequence of operation so they have no clue where to begin looking for the problem. That turns into wishful parts changing with fingers crossed lol. If the problem is a poor ground connection all the new parts you can throw at it will do nothing.
Very good video. The only thing that had me confused was the fact that you referred to the Manifold as the “Main”. It’s like people calling the Engine in cars a Motor. Engines are gas expansion driven (steam,gasoline,diesel,alcohol,kerosene,moonshine,etc),which is directly opposite to a compressor,while the Motor is electric powered! I’m not being nitpicking,it was just an observation!
My furnace has an intermittent issue. The thermostat calls for heat, and the inducer motor/fan starts up, and runs about 7-10 seconds, and then shuts of for 1-3 seconds, and then kicks back on. After 2-3 times of doing this, the igniter finally lights the gas, and it works as normal from there. It does not do it every time - sometimes it starts up on the first try. My guess is the NEST thermostat may have an issue? (The entire heat/AC system is about 12 months old, both inside and outside) - It occasionally did this with the old system as well, but very rarely. They did run a new thermostat wire when they installed the system. Since the thermostat is the only thing left from the original unit, I suspect it. Any idea if these tend to fail frequently? (It is about 4 years old)
I was wondering if you can help here. I have an attic unit Trane (lays on the side horizontally) We just had a week-long of zero-degree weather end of January in Chicago, before the arctic blast the temperatures outside were 25 to 30 degrees I was reading a nice 96-98 degrees using the red dot temperature thing to take the reading from the supply registers. Once the big cold blast hit as temperatures were falling to rock bottom my nice 97-98 degrees at the supply registers started slowly turning into 87-89 degrees at supply, later in the night that 87-89 degrees now was down to 84-85, even later as the night went on more my supply was now down to 80-82, and by morning we are at zero outside and my supply vents are down to 78-79 at the registers and just sat there. What the heck could be causing this? I had to leave the house for a hotel because it was 56 degrees inside!!!! This is NOT an air duct leak, I went up in the attic and right at point exit of the furnace I was getting 80 degrees coming directly out of the furnace itself!!!! This is driving me bonkers! I have a Nest so I can monitor the inside temperature without being home, could this be limit-switch and cutting my burners off "thinking" its overheating? After the cold snap has ended and temperatures rebounded back into the 20's and 30's I was back at that wonderful 97-98 degrees out of the registers. Where was my 97-98 degrees during the coldest time???? And no, I have the cleanest air filter in the neighborhood, nothing is blocking ANY cold air returns, all registers are fully open. Please don't say the filter is dirty like everyone else says because I even took the filter out, and it still ran like this. Please any help here would be greatful.
Why does mine prove the pilot kick the main burner on then it goes out and starts over sometimes it only does it once sometimes it does it 5-7 times before it stays lit
I should check for 24 volts to be on the mv when it shuts off if it’s still present possible solenoid in main burner issue it is a Honeywell controller I grabbed a used one off a guy to try but the spark wire is different been doing it for 7 years that I lived here it’s annoying to hear the process carry on so long
I appreciate you asking this question, Im also having this exact same issue with my water boiler and I also have this same setup. I already replace the ignition control board with the same one, and the spark flame assembly. Im guessing the gas valve could be culprit.
I have exactly same setup. Is there an easy way to reduce number of burners? My boiler is oversized and I wonder if I could save some gas and make the temperature maybe more stable
No, boiler is designed for the burners it has, underfiring is just as bad in the long run than over firing. Will cause condensation and severe rapid corrosion to your boiler and flue pipe. It's a shame so many systems are not sized for the home/building
@@povoljan13they are manufactured with jacket insulation, insulating it poses a fire danger and saves you nothing. The heat is being moved to warm the cool areas of the house, so insulation in that vessel saves no output as the output is always being used to heat the space.
I’m dealing with an issue where when the thermostat is NOT calling for heat, the gas valve stays open and the flame keeps going. To turn off the heat, I have to flip the switch.
Your thermostat is probably defective and keeping the contacts in the thermostat closed between terminals R to W. Replacing the thermostat should resolve the issue
Could be anything. Could be faulty transformer, spill switch, roll out switch, thermostat, pressure switch, aquastat, low water, high limit, etc. Envision a circle; each aforementioned part needs to be in good working order to allow voltage to pass through to complete a circle.
I have an old boiler that keeps shutting down. Pump keeps running but there’s no flame. No gas smell. I’ve paid nearly a grand for hvac people to come and tell me the boiler is 30 years old and you need a new one. Why can’t they test the intermittent ignition system, Honeywell, and determine which part is the problem? They only want to sell me a new boiler.
I have been building industrial pressure washers for 40 years. I’ve always had problems getting the pilot light to stay on. I’m going to try this auto pilot method. The only difference is I am using a burner that requires 400,000 BTUs. The theory should work. My customers will be happy if I am successful. Thanks for the great content!
Best part when you explain how it works and how to troubleshoot it. I’ve become so good at my job cus of your channel and now I’m on the process of preparing for contractor license
Thank you so much for your encouragement! I needed to hear that!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you Craig! You have helped me tremendously in helping the older ones in my community! My you be blessed always!
Why are you guys so good to us. Great content 👌
I started watching Craig’s channel 2 years ago while working as an apartment maintenance technician. Today I’m a lead residential sales and service tech at a reputable company in my state. This channel is GOLD.
@misfitpilgrim7967 heck yeah, good on ya. I do not think I've been onto these guys for much more than several months.
Pretty much everything is on point, and I'm a field service tech who loves continuing education[for whatever that is worth]. Sometimes, I learn a trick or 2 here, but I always get a good reminder of professionalism and how to relax and go through the motions of testing.
Thanks for your educational priceless contributions.
@@millenialmemoirs Man! YES!
Another great video. I love how u explain then show How something works.
Thank you!
I love your work. You and Tyler do a great job in teaching and explaining everything. Keep up the great work.
I needed this, bringing an old Frankenstein’d MUA unit back to life after it’s been sitting for 10+ years out of service. Thanks!
I showed up to a furnace recently installed by someone else. Diagnosed a bad board, got a new board in, discover a rollout switch also triggered. Got the furnace running; the combustion is TERRIBLE. Weak, orange, pungent flame. Check gas pressures; they are perfect. Finally realize this thing is trying to burn LP and doesn’t have a conversion kit 😅
Ty for sharing, a good laugh and better lesson that I will try to remember. Tech life!
Thank you for that information buddy
Orifice
The laughs of the trades 😂
Thanks!
Just wanna thank you so much for all this amazing videos you’re making for us as technicians to gain more knowledge and serve the customers better. God bless you I’ve learned so much from your channel.
Well done Craig!
It amazes me still the amount of knowledge people are willing to share this is a very similar setup with my old furnace and I’m diagnosing a strange condition where it’s trying to start but can’t like the step where it has lit the pilot but isn’t opening the gas valve. It will retry and eventually start so that’s odd 🙁. It is in need of replacing but I’m trying to get it through to the summer 😂
Perfect explanation. Thanks, Craig. I really needed this video.
Thanks!❤
Thank you for contributing! I really appreciate it!!
Great Video. Good Job and Nice Work. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend
Great instructional value!
Thank you so much for being generous to share us your knowledge. I am making more clients because of you. More power and God bless you more.
Thank you for watching and subscribing!!
Another great video Craig. Thank you for the knowledge.
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Great demonstration!!!🎉
Very good demonstration as always👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
It is good to read about a field and it is okay to read otherwise
Huh?
Hi there and thanks I have learned so much by looking at your videos it has help me become a better technician.
Thank you for making this great video, demonstrated with real components. I am an electrician on my way to be an HVAC expert
You make helpfull videos . Thank you
Flame rectifier blew my mind, that's so smart to use it there damn
Thanks for your help Good job
Great video. thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for posting such informative videos. I would (need) to see one video that shows the the control board and how they work together.
Yes, you are the best. Thank you for those videos.
Great informative video thanks so much
Great job ,thank you.
Good video Craig. Thanks for posting. One concern though. I noticed the level bubble in the thermostat was a little bit off.
Thank you for sharing so valuable info
is there supposed to be 10,000 volts on the ground wire coming back to the control module? I thought ground wires are only supposed to carry the current back? You have the best HVAC videos on RUclips
These are excellent videos. Thank you 🙏
Hey question forya craig, on the setups with the seperate flame rod completing circuit back to the sense terminal, what amperage is good/bad coming back to the control? Is it pretty much the same as an hsi setup where you want to see at least 4ma?
Great video man!!
You are a hero
thanks bro this sysytem is also used in noodle boile equipment
So if there's a current running through the gas pilot tube, should I not use Teflon tape on its threads ?
excellent video
Excellent, Thanks
You guys need to do a video on ultra low nox furnaces
Great video
Good morning, excellent explanation and I like your videos, you know a lot, I have a question about my furnice, when it calls to turn on the sparks it clicks for 30 or 40 seconds and it turns on and works well, what could be the reason, thank you
Good video craig, these days at least in my area we dont see many intermittent spark systems,seems like everything is hsi now. So its good to teach this because its not really taught enough and when a newer tech comes across one they have no clue the sequence of operation so they have no clue where to begin looking for the problem. That turns into wishful parts changing with fingers crossed lol. If the problem is a poor ground connection all the new parts you can throw at it will do nothing.
Re gounding and fixing loose ground connections requires no parts. I always check those first!
@@ShawnQueefus exactly what I was implying
Intermittent spark ignition modules are still used a lot especially in commercial equipment in residential not so much anymore
Very good video.
The only thing that had me confused was the fact that you referred to the Manifold as the “Main”.
It’s like people calling the Engine in cars a Motor. Engines are gas expansion driven (steam,gasoline,diesel,alcohol,kerosene,moonshine,etc),which is directly opposite to a compressor,while the Motor is electric powered!
I’m not being nitpicking,it was just an observation!
thank you great information
Hola! Tengo un problema con mi horno, no prende el quemador y ya cambié la válvula, el problema será el módulo que manda el voltaje?
Hi Craig do you have the part number for that pilot sensor? I need one!
Does the thermopile polarity matter? Or could connect them either way? Thank you
is it OK if I install needle valve after the gas valve so i can control the gas pressure into burner?
My furnace has an intermittent issue.
The thermostat calls for heat, and the inducer motor/fan starts up, and runs about 7-10 seconds, and then shuts of for 1-3 seconds, and then kicks back on. After 2-3 times of doing this, the igniter finally lights the gas, and it works as normal from there.
It does not do it every time - sometimes it starts up on the first try. My guess is the NEST thermostat may have an issue? (The entire heat/AC system is about 12 months old, both inside and outside) - It occasionally did this with the old system as well, but very rarely.
They did run a new thermostat wire when they installed the system.
Since the thermostat is the only thing left from the original unit, I suspect it. Any idea if these tend to fail frequently? (It is about 4 years old)
I want to connect my ecobee thermostat how do I get the 24v power from the transformer which wire is it?
Or I can’t do that?
Sir make these detail video on combi oven. Example rational, convotherm
I keep seeing the word thermal couple. I’m assuming this one does not. Does the spark tube act as a thermal couple?
I was wondering if you can help here. I have an attic unit Trane (lays on the side horizontally) We just had a week-long of zero-degree weather end of January in Chicago, before the arctic blast the temperatures outside were 25 to 30 degrees I was reading a nice 96-98 degrees using the red dot temperature thing to take the reading from the supply registers. Once the big cold blast hit as temperatures were falling to rock bottom my nice 97-98 degrees at the supply registers started slowly turning into 87-89 degrees at supply, later in the night that 87-89 degrees now was down to 84-85, even later as the night went on more my supply was now down to 80-82, and by morning we are at zero outside and my supply vents are down to 78-79 at the registers and just sat there. What the heck could be causing this? I had to leave the house for a hotel because it was 56 degrees inside!!!! This is NOT an air duct leak, I went up in the attic and right at point exit of the furnace I was getting 80 degrees coming directly out of the furnace itself!!!! This is driving me bonkers! I have a Nest so I can monitor the inside temperature without being home, could this be limit-switch and cutting my burners off "thinking" its overheating? After the cold snap has ended and temperatures rebounded back into the 20's and 30's I was back at that wonderful 97-98 degrees out of the registers. Where was my 97-98 degrees during the coldest time???? And no, I have the cleanest air filter in the neighborhood, nothing is blocking ANY cold air returns, all registers are fully open. Please don't say the filter is dirty like everyone else says because I even took the filter out, and it still ran like this. Please any help here would be greatful.
On a previous 410a charging video, you charged the unit through the low side. Is it safe to add liquid knowing that’s it going to the compressor?
It is safe to slowly add liquid refrigerant through the suction side as it will usually flash into a vapor before getting to the compressor
Great video; I wish you would put out some furnace books and a trouble shooting book with all of this info.
This all a bit oldskool now in the UK. Very little with PP
Why does mine prove the pilot kick the main burner on then it goes out and starts over sometimes it only does it once sometimes it does it 5-7 times before it stays lit
I should check for 24 volts to be on the mv when it shuts off if it’s still present possible solenoid in main burner issue it is a Honeywell controller I grabbed a used one off a guy to try but the spark wire is different been doing it for 7 years that I lived here it’s annoying to hear the process carry on so long
I appreciate you asking this question, Im also having this exact same issue with my water boiler and I also have this same setup. I already replace the ignition control board with the same one, and the spark flame assembly. Im guessing the gas valve could be culprit.
Were you able to fix your problem?
the pilot flame cuts off after 5 seconds what could the issue be?
My test failed at the first multimeter test what's that mean
I have exactly same setup. Is there an easy way to reduce number of burners? My boiler is oversized and I wonder if I could save some gas and make the temperature maybe more stable
No, boiler is designed for the burners it has, underfiring is just as bad in the long run than over firing. Will cause condensation and severe rapid corrosion to your boiler and flue pipe. It's a shame so many systems are not sized for the home/building
@@HVACRTECH-83 thanks!
Insulate your house so it retains heat and doesn't make your boiler run for a long time
@@povoljan13 the point is that I have opposite problem. It is not fit to the load. Raises temperature of the water too fast.
@@povoljan13they are manufactured with jacket insulation, insulating it poses a fire danger and saves you nothing. The heat is being moved to warm the cool areas of the house, so insulation in that vessel saves no output as the output is always being used to heat the space.
Excelente
My ignitor will not spark. What is the issue?
I’m dealing with an issue where when the thermostat is NOT calling for heat, the gas valve stays open and the flame keeps going. To turn off the heat, I have to flip the switch.
Your thermostat is probably defective and keeping the contacts in the thermostat closed between terminals R to W. Replacing the thermostat should resolve the issue
Sir i am also a AC technician is there any vacancy?
What if you're not getting a spart at all?? Where is the problem?
Could be anything. Could be faulty transformer, spill switch, roll out switch, thermostat, pressure switch, aquastat, low water, high limit, etc. Envision a circle; each aforementioned part needs to be in good working order to allow voltage to pass through to complete a circle.
I have an old boiler that keeps shutting down. Pump keeps running but there’s no flame. No gas smell. I’ve paid nearly a grand for hvac people to come and tell me the boiler is 30 years old and you need a new one. Why can’t they test the intermittent ignition system, Honeywell, and determine which part is the problem? They only want to sell me a new boiler.
Gas valve, dirty flame sensor, clogged condensation trap?
I have a pilot, but it continues to tick and no main burner.
I also cleaned the flame rod.
Hiy my pilot doesn't gaz
Bad gas valve if it gets 24v and doesn’t open. If not 24v at gas valve and ignition module is getting 24v, bad module.
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks!
Thanks so much!!