Leaving space for cutting in a replacement valve is good advice. I install a PVC union between the mainline and the valve, so replacing valves is even easier. I lube the union o-ring with plumbers grease, and have never had a leak.
Idk but the companies I work for taught me how to do things way different and our manifold are not angled. Interesting to see how others do it cool vid bro
Nice video. I've been working about 100 acres of irrigation system in North Georgia, bringing the whole park into a more updated system- the whole system was un-isolatable. Now that I have isolated many zones I can effectively flush valves that are continuously getting stopped up over and over again by debris. Maybe do a valve flushing video!
Awesome good job. Sounds like a big job. Using isolation valves makes valve repairs and maintenance so much easier. That is a good idea for a video. Thanks.
Assembling one at a time is a great idea. My manifold attached to inline pipes (no elbow) so I was wondering how I was going to do that. But gluing the valve and pipe to the outgoing pipe, then gluing the tee section into the manifold should work nicely. Thanks.
I would have connected that first valve to the outside pipe, then the second valve to the inside pipe so that second valve wouldn't have had to be angled up like that.
Yes I was too originally. Placing valves in the middle of the zone is good for the hydraulics but it is not good for repair or aesthetics. Having valve boxes everywhere never looks good in a yard in my opinion, but I’m like you, it is always interesting to see how different people install valves and sprinkler systems.
Nice vid! Question: before I put the Orbit three valve in permanently, I tried to run water through it to make sure the valve opened. It buzzed for the one minute I programmed, but no water went through, it didn’t seem to open. I did make sure it was turned to “on”. Tried this in all three valves, no water went through. Any ideas?
DO you ever put in that black plastic material along with p-gravel under your valve manifold to prevent from dirt build-up over time..? Does that work?
We typically don’t but I have done a few jobs that it was specified to put gravel in the bottom of each valve box and I see it done every once in a while. It does keep it clean. It is an extra step a lot of guys do not want to take but it could take an install to the next level. Good valve box installation is higher on my list though.
Is there a reason why you use PVC vs poly? Particularly for the lateral lines? We use high density poly for main and low density poly for laterals. Do you believe PVC is less prone to damage hence leaks? We’re not worried about frost.
We have just always used pvc here. I’ve wondered if it’s just because no one has ever tried it here in west Texas. I’ve wanted to expand into using it.
We're out in Los Angeles and only PVC is used here in our area. EXTREMELY rare when someone uses poly pipe out in this area. The only times I have seen that is there is very prone to breakage from tree roots or when a homeowner does their own irrigation. But VERY rare out here.
I get that question a lot and the only answer I have is that is just how we have always installed down here. But I have been wanting to expand my horizons and get more into some poly.
Why not use compression fittings on each valve so you don’t have to worry about cutting out valves? The other idea is to have a couple of extra valves in inventory to use as parts so you don’t have the headache of cutting out a valve.
Always having a few spare valves is good advice. I never cut one out unless something extremely bad goes wrong, like the base crack for some reason or part of the pipe. I’ve seen several different ways to manifold valves, I wanted to show an example like this, if a guy wanted to build one from scratch. Thanks for the comment.
@@AmericanIrrigator didn't expect a reply!! Thanks. Now, I have a question. We have 5 zones, overhead sprinklers. We draw water from the St. Johns River. I need advice on a filter for each zone that I'm converting to Drip. I had removed all the filters from the individual sprinkler heads as they would gunk up in a heart beat. Is there a pretty hefty one available to put inline, after the valve???? An easy accessible cleanout? Hope you can figure out my problem and thanks for your help! Janis Brown Welaka, Florida
Leaving space for cutting in a replacement valve is good advice. I install a PVC union between the mainline and the valve, so replacing valves is even easier. I lube the union o-ring with plumbers grease, and have never had a leak.
This gave me some confidence, now I just gotta go do it…let me finish my coffee and it’s game time lol
Me !!!
Use a threaded coupler on each end of the valve for quick swap out. No need to cut in a replacement.
That is an idea.
Idk but the companies I work for taught me how to do things way different and our manifold are not angled. Interesting to see how others do it cool vid bro
I just did one for my first time boy i was about to cry lol thank you for sharing you knowledge i just learned something new
Go get ‘em man. I’m glad this helps. Just another way to do it.
Nice video. I've been working about 100 acres of irrigation system in North Georgia, bringing the whole park into a more updated system- the whole system was un-isolatable. Now that I have isolated many zones I can effectively flush valves that are continuously getting stopped up over and over again by debris. Maybe do a valve flushing video!
Awesome good job. Sounds like a big job. Using isolation valves makes valve repairs and maintenance so much easier. That is a good idea for a video. Thanks.
Assembling one at a time is a great idea. My manifold attached to inline pipes (no elbow) so I was wondering how I was going to do that. But gluing the valve and pipe to the outgoing pipe, then gluing the tee section into the manifold should work nicely. Thanks.
What happens if there's a crack in one of those Tees? Any advice there?
I anyways though you should lay the zone pipes first then build the manifold valve box last so I agree
Wow! You make it look so easy 👍👍👍
Lol! It’s a lot of practice and messing up. If I can do it and figure it out, anyone can.
I would have connected that first valve to the outside pipe, then the second valve to the inside pipe so that second valve wouldn't have had to be angled up like that.
I came here to say the same thing. I hate stacking pipes like that.
Interesting to see how everyone installs,I was taught to put the valves close to the middle of each zone.
Yes I was too originally. Placing valves in the middle of the zone is good for the hydraulics but it is not good for repair or aesthetics. Having valve boxes everywhere never looks good in a yard in my opinion, but I’m like you, it is always interesting to see how different people install valves and sprinkler systems.
I love ur videos but why would you use pvc manifold valves when there are actual “manifold” valves made out of fittings with an o-ring?
Is that sch20 on pressure side I see?
Nice vid! Question: before I put the Orbit three valve in permanently, I tried to run water through it to make sure the valve opened. It buzzed for the one minute I programmed, but no water went through, it didn’t seem to open. I did make sure it was turned to “on”. Tried this in all three valves, no water went through. Any ideas?
Im not real sure what's going on on this one. ?? It sounds like a wire or Solenoid issue possibly.
DO you ever put in that black plastic material along with p-gravel under your valve manifold to prevent from dirt build-up over time..? Does that work?
We typically don’t but I have done a few jobs that it was specified to put gravel in the bottom of each valve box and I see it done every once in a while. It does keep it clean. It is an extra step a lot of guys do not want to take but it could take an install to the next level. Good valve box installation is higher on my list though.
@@AmericanIrrigator THink i need to come and work for you and lean irrigation.. Im all about taking pride in my job that i do..
That’s what we are about. I’ve always tried to focus on quality.
Is there a reason why you use PVC vs poly? Particularly for the lateral lines? We use high density poly for main and low density poly for laterals. Do you believe PVC is less prone to damage hence leaks? We’re not worried about frost.
We have just always used pvc here. I’ve wondered if it’s just because no one has ever tried it here in west Texas. I’ve wanted to expand into using it.
We're out in Los Angeles and only PVC is used here in our area. EXTREMELY rare when someone uses poly pipe out in this area. The only times I have seen that is there is very prone to breakage from tree roots or when a homeowner does their own irrigation. But VERY rare out here.
@@growcontrollandscape It must be a regional thing. Thanks!
I’ve used PVC for the main line and poly pipe for the out areas. It’s worked well for the past 20 years here in Wyoming.
Good tips...but why PVC and not Poly?
I get that question a lot and the only answer I have is that is just how we have always installed down here. But I have been wanting to expand my horizons and get more into some poly.
No pressure regulators?
No not on any of these valves. I only use pressure regulators and filters on drip zones. These are all rotor zones watering a grass area.
Wire locating tips ?
I’ll work on that. Thanks.
I use PVC headers but then use 1 1/4 poly pipe for main lines. I don’t understand why everyone uses PVC for everything. That sounds like such a pain
Why not use compression fittings on each valve so you don’t have to worry about cutting out valves? The other idea is to have a couple of extra valves in inventory to use as parts so you don’t have the headache of cutting out a valve.
Always having a few spare valves is good advice. I never cut one out unless something extremely bad goes wrong, like the base crack for some reason or part of the pipe. I’ve seen several different ways to manifold valves, I wanted to show an example like this, if a guy wanted to build one from scratch. Thanks for the comment.
I would suggest you not just talk to the 'guys'. Us Women do this, too!
Awesome! I will try to be better about that. I'll start saying Ya'll more, especially since I'm from Texas. LOL
@@AmericanIrrigator didn't expect a reply!! Thanks. Now, I have a question. We have 5 zones, overhead sprinklers. We draw water from the St. Johns River. I need advice on a filter for each zone that I'm converting to Drip. I had removed all the filters from the individual sprinkler heads as they would gunk up in a heart beat. Is there a pretty hefty one available to put inline, after the valve???? An easy accessible cleanout? Hope you can figure out my problem and thanks for your help!
Janis Brown
Welaka, Florida
Lady come on now! It’s a general term sheesh.
no isolation valve for each valve no space between each T. throw them in their own box to make room for repairs. come on man