Not bad, but there are some things people should take note of: Always check with your local water authority regarding backflow prevention: The water you are protecting isn't only in your home but all your neighbors, too. You shouldn't be using anti-syphon valves below ground - these should be mounted at least 6" higher than the highest sprinkler head or outlet in the system. Regular solenoid valves would have been better and you would be using half as many union couplers (only needed on one side of each valve). A single anti-syphon valve should be installed upstream of your manifold, near the connection to your water source, where it can act as both an atmospheric vacuum breaker and a master valve to depressurize the manifold, in case you end up with a leaky valve in the future. When using Unions: The O Ring side should be Up on a vertical installation or on the Valve Side if horizontal: That O Ring isn't attached and can easily fall off or be misaligned. PVC Primer and Solvent Cement: The Primer cleans the pipe and fitting, dissolving any flakes or burrs and priming the items for the Solvent Cement. Excess primer will weaken the pipe of fitting, so only add primer once, running the dauber about a dozen times around the pipe (the lettering on the pipe should fade away) and about half as many times inside the fitting. The Solvent Cement is just that: it will dissolve the pipe and fitting and chemically bond them together. One wipe around the pipe and in the fitting should be more than enough, with fitting attached immediately using a quarter turn to fully seat it. Wipe away any bead or excess, inside or out. Teflon Plumber's tape: Three or four turns, starting at the front winding back is all you need. Use your thumbnail to cut the tape cleanly: don't let the tape stretch or fray. Don't work the tape into the groove with your thumbnail as you show in the video: just smooth the end down and it will seat properly when you thread the pieces together.
What was not clear is why you just did not connect to the new main. If what you already had was working that is all that was needed. Also they make manifolds saves time and money. If you go to a irrigation supply you could’ve gotten all this cheaper and better quality. With all that said you did make a very clear video and you learned so I will call it a win.
Thank you for making this video. I am redoing my manifold that has 8 as well. 2 things I would like to add are using sandpaper to rough up the pvc connections that I have been told helps with the glue bonding the connection and when making each glued connection you should hold pressure on the connections for about 20 seconds each time to let the glue start to bond.
Doing my first ever sprinkler system install and was wanting to do something like this to make swaps of bad valves easier. This helped immensely in visualizing everything and what I need to buy, thank you!
The solvent union idea is brilliant. I’ve been slowing reworking our home’s irrigation, and every time I look at the valves I’m just so confused by why they don’t make them easier to take off and replace or service. I have two that I’m replacing, and I’m going out to get these fittings right now.
My understanding is that "plumber's tape" is the metal galvanized strips used to support pipes. I've always heard this tape referred to as Teflon tape.
I am impressed with your organizational skill. You plan ahead and are very organized, an excellent skill. Why did you use anti-siphon valves? Co0uld you not have used valves that are underground, lot fewer parts to glue. I guess if you did this, you would have to assemble a backflow. I am not a pro in irrigation, but an amateur. Why do you need a plumber? You did everything correctly. You also did a clean job. I get glue all over. What a mess, but I am getting little bit better.
Hi Miroslav, I'm an amateur too and definitely not a pro. Anti-siphon valves were the same price as in-line valves, and I thought it'd be cheaper if I don't add a backflow preventer. In retrospect, I'd probably use in-line valves instead. You're right that I'd need a backflow preventer if I went down that path, and other viewers have recommended going that as well. The reason I needed the plumber was because I was completely re-piping the house. That meant a new water main, pex manifold, and all new pipes throughout. I needed the plumber to connect the new pex lines to the sprinkler valves.
I wish I saw your video about 6 months ago. I rebuilt my manifold and made a lot of newbie mistakes so I am going to have to rebuilt it again. This time in 100+ degree AZ heat.
Nice job, thats a lot of unions. I think I'm just going to use galvanized pipe risers on mine. Then I can unscrew the input line side if I need to replace a valve. Also these valves are generally quite serviceable. The diaphragm and solenoid can be purchased individually and those are the 2 parts most likely to go out. I'm working on my sprinkler system, front yard has 2 valves but I'm adding 3 so I'm going to rebuild the whole system and replace the old valves.
I think unscrewing the line is not as easy as you think. I like your idea of making the manifold serviceable from the input line, but I really think you should consider using a union on the input line. The reason I think you'll run into a problem, is that when you twist your threaded pipe it'll loosen on one end and tighten on the other. And if your pipes are already tightened, then you may not have any room to unscrew it. I'd love to see what your finished product looks like though. I want to make another video soon and talk about things that I wish I did a little differently. I for sure learned a lot, and its the first time I did something like this.
@@papashome547 The galvanized pipe is code requirement in some areas for sprinkler systems, because they don't want anything on the water main side that is above ground to be plastic. It's gotta be galvanized or copper. I think its because the PVC can be damaged by UV and its easier to crack with frost and things hitting it etc. I have about all the parts and may start building mine out tomorrow. It's not going to be as serviceable as yours. To service mine and replace the entire valve assembly, I'd have to cut the outgoing pvc pipe (the one that runs to the sprinkler system), so I can unscrew the galvanized side (main line side). Then I can repair it with a union and some glue. I got some guy with a backhoe to dig 300-350 feet of trench, do some scraping and leveling out of my yard. Part of the trenching was for a french drain line. He did it all for just over $300 which is crazy considering it took him about 11 hours of work. 5 hours one day 6 hours the next! I'm at $1000 right now, I'm sure I'm saving a few thousand DIY.
I wished you would have see some of my videos. I've been building irrigation system for almost 40 years. Unless a homeowner has installed Anti Syphon Valves as you have done, I do not recommend it. Use inline valves with an approved Backflow Preventer. Rainbird and other well known sprinkler valves manufactures like Hunter, make valve manifolds that are very easy to install. I will say you did a pretty good explanation on the video, but as a Irrigation Sprinkler Technician, I would never advise anyone to install Anti Syphon Valves.
Great stuff, I'm going to implement a lot of your ideas (especially the union idea). Do you have to use the teflon tape when re-joining the unions or is it fine because of the o-ring? Thanks again
I know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Thiago Abram i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
you should have installed 1 backflow preventer where main line is and used regular zone valves without the back flow on each one, then you would not have had to dig so deep
In retrospect, I agree with you. I chose these valves because they were about the same price as valves that didn't have backflow preventers. I have another video where I reflect on things that I wish I did a bit differently. You may want to check it out.
I was reading reviews about some of the pre-built manifolds. I was really interested in one made by Orbit, but I saw reviews that said that they tend to leak or bust. And some of the reviews mentioned how much of a pain in the butt it was to swap out the whole manifold. Though building it myself was a lot of work, connecting the valves with unions will make it really easy to swap out parts. So really the motivator was, "How do I do this in a way where I never have to swap out the whole manifold and make the maintenance on it really easy." This was also a much higher financial cost. I'm thinking about doing a retrospective video where I talk about things I would do differently. I'm also working on the next video where I connect the manifold to the sprinkler controller. Sadly the file got corrupted, and I kinda had to start over...
Maybe a professional can comment see I had the same issues as u’ previous owner installed sprinkler heads and lines all the way to a 3 way manifold in a green box’ installed a backflow shut off valve’ he for w/e reason never ran water to it’ but he did pipe the main water to manifold above ground for easy find/connection 5ft from outside Faucet’ Yet when I call landscaper they want to run and entire new fn system Uhmm why? It needs u to plumb water to it then it’s ready to go’ I think they just wanna make money or if there is a reason I’d love to know 4500 for system they want To bring in new sprinkler system Topsoil/ manure and hydro seed they want 8k dollars! My yards maybe 80’x40’ seems fn excessive to me so 3500 for u hell I’d take that deal in a heart beat man
Not Brain My Friend More Flow Bigger Pipe Think Use Your Intelligence If Your Irrigation Pump is 2hp or 3 Hp Or 4 hp For 1 Inch Pipe Will Water Pass Same Flow Amén
Not bad, but there are some things people should take note of:
Always check with your local water authority regarding backflow prevention: The water you are protecting isn't only in your home but all your neighbors, too.
You shouldn't be using anti-syphon valves below ground - these should be mounted at least 6" higher than the highest sprinkler head or outlet in the system. Regular solenoid valves would have been better and you would be using half as many union couplers (only needed on one side of each valve). A single anti-syphon valve should be installed upstream of your manifold, near the connection to your water source, where it can act as both an atmospheric vacuum breaker and a master valve to depressurize the manifold, in case you end up with a leaky valve in the future.
When using Unions: The O Ring side should be Up on a vertical installation or on the Valve Side if horizontal: That O Ring isn't attached and can easily fall off or be misaligned.
PVC Primer and Solvent Cement: The Primer cleans the pipe and fitting, dissolving any flakes or burrs and priming the items for the Solvent Cement. Excess primer will weaken the pipe of fitting, so only add primer once, running the dauber about a dozen times around the pipe (the lettering on the pipe should fade away) and about half as many times inside the fitting. The Solvent Cement is just that: it will dissolve the pipe and fitting and chemically bond them together. One wipe around the pipe and in the fitting should be more than enough, with fitting attached immediately using a quarter turn to fully seat it. Wipe away any bead or excess, inside or out.
Teflon Plumber's tape: Three or four turns, starting at the front winding back is all you need. Use your thumbnail to cut the tape cleanly: don't let the tape stretch or fray. Don't work the tape into the groove with your thumbnail as you show in the video: just smooth the end down and it will seat properly when you thread the pieces together.
What was not clear is why you just did not connect to the new main. If what you already had was working that is all that was needed.
Also they make manifolds saves time and money. If you go to a irrigation supply you could’ve gotten all this cheaper and better quality.
With all that said you did make a very clear video and you learned so I will call it a win.
Thank you for making this video. I am redoing my manifold that has 8 as well.
2 things I would like to add are using sandpaper to rough up the pvc connections that I have been told helps with the glue bonding the connection and when making each glued connection you should hold pressure on the connections for about 20 seconds each time to let the glue start to bond.
thanks for the demo and info, have a great day
One of the decent guides on the RUclips! Thanks a lot.
This is the best video ive ever seen my whole life! Im going to do it exactly like you showed. Everyone should.
I'm glad you find this useful
Doing my first ever sprinkler system install and was wanting to do something like this to make swaps of bad valves easier. This helped immensely in visualizing everything and what I need to buy, thank you!
unions are a "future" life saver! Good job man!
The solvent union idea is brilliant. I’ve been slowing reworking our home’s irrigation, and every time I look at the valves I’m just so confused by why they don’t make them easier to take off and replace or service. I have two that I’m replacing, and I’m going out to get these fittings right now.
This by far will make things easier down the road
My understanding is that "plumber's tape" is the metal galvanized strips used to support pipes. I've always heard this tape referred to as Teflon tape.
same here
union on anti siphon is wild
Wow! Thank you so much for this video! I learned so much about sprinklers and stuff.
Sincerely,
Not Jacob
I am impressed with your organizational skill. You plan ahead and are very organized, an excellent skill. Why did you use anti-siphon valves? Co0uld you not have used valves that are underground, lot fewer parts to glue. I guess if you did this, you would have to assemble a backflow. I am not a pro in irrigation, but an amateur. Why do you need a plumber? You did everything correctly. You also did a clean job. I get glue all over. What a mess, but I am getting little bit better.
Hi Miroslav, I'm an amateur too and definitely not a pro. Anti-siphon valves were the same price as in-line valves, and I thought it'd be cheaper if I don't add a backflow preventer. In retrospect, I'd probably use in-line valves instead. You're right that I'd need a backflow preventer if I went down that path, and other viewers have recommended going that as well. The reason I needed the plumber was because I was completely re-piping the house. That meant a new water main, pex manifold, and all new pipes throughout. I needed the plumber to connect the new pex lines to the sprinkler valves.
I wish I saw your video about 6 months ago. I rebuilt my manifold and made a lot of newbie mistakes so I am going to have to rebuilt it again. This time in 100+ degree AZ heat.
There's a few other ones I made in the sprinkler playlist. Hopefully those are helpful too.
Wow this is a great video I enjoyed watching 😁
Nice job, thats a lot of unions. I think I'm just going to use galvanized pipe risers on mine. Then I can unscrew the input line side if I need to replace a valve. Also these valves are generally quite serviceable. The diaphragm and solenoid can be purchased individually and those are the 2 parts most likely to go out.
I'm working on my sprinkler system, front yard has 2 valves but I'm adding 3 so I'm going to rebuild the whole system and replace the old valves.
I think unscrewing the line is not as easy as you think.
I like your idea of making the manifold serviceable from the input line, but I really think you should consider using a union on the input line. The reason I think you'll run into a problem, is that when you twist your threaded pipe it'll loosen on one end and tighten on the other. And if your pipes are already tightened, then you may not have any room to unscrew it.
I'd love to see what your finished product looks like though. I want to make another video soon and talk about things that I wish I did a little differently. I for sure learned a lot, and its the first time I did something like this.
@@papashome547 The galvanized pipe is code requirement in some areas for sprinkler systems, because they don't want anything on the water main side that is above ground to be plastic. It's gotta be galvanized or copper. I think its because the PVC can be damaged by UV and its easier to crack with frost and things hitting it etc.
I have about all the parts and may start building mine out tomorrow. It's not going to be as serviceable as yours. To service mine and replace the entire valve assembly, I'd have to cut the outgoing pvc pipe (the one that runs to the sprinkler system), so I can unscrew the galvanized side (main line side). Then I can repair it with a union and some glue.
I got some guy with a backhoe to dig 300-350 feet of trench, do some scraping and leveling out of my yard. Part of the trenching was for a french drain line. He did it all for just over $300 which is crazy considering it took him about 11 hours of work. 5 hours one day 6 hours the next!
I'm at $1000 right now, I'm sure I'm saving a few thousand DIY.
With that amount of valves can u show me how to add those wires to the system. Because i only have 1 set of wires connected to system
I think you pretty much did everything, you don’t need a plumber or anyone at this point.
Great job!
Kean is the best!
Dude, you need to tip your union so the primer doesn't get on the rubber O-ring. And don't get that Red Hot Blue on the O-ring either!
I wished you would have see some of my videos. I've been building irrigation system for almost 40 years. Unless a homeowner has installed Anti Syphon Valves as you have done, I do not recommend it. Use inline valves with an approved Backflow Preventer. Rainbird and other well known sprinkler valves manufactures like Hunter, make valve manifolds that are very easy to install.
I will say you did a pretty good explanation on the video, but as a Irrigation Sprinkler Technician, I would never advise anyone to install Anti Syphon Valves.
? Anti syphons are standard valve type in irrigation systems
Great stuff, I'm going to implement a lot of your ideas (especially the union idea). Do you have to use the teflon tape when re-joining the unions or is it fine because of the o-ring? Thanks again
I know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Neil Baylor instablaster ;)
@Thiago Abram i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Thiago Abram it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Neil Baylor Glad I could help xD
you should have installed 1 backflow preventer where main line is and used regular zone valves without the back flow on each one, then you would not have had to dig so deep
In retrospect, I agree with you.
I chose these valves because they were about the same price as valves that didn't have backflow preventers. I have another video where I reflect on things that I wish I did a bit differently. You may want to check it out.
Why you didn't buy the manifold... Won't that be easier?
I was reading reviews about some of the pre-built manifolds. I was really interested in one made by Orbit, but I saw reviews that said that they tend to leak or bust. And some of the reviews mentioned how much of a pain in the butt it was to swap out the whole manifold. Though building it myself was a lot of work, connecting the valves with unions will make it really easy to swap out parts. So really the motivator was, "How do I do this in a way where I never have to swap out the whole manifold and make the maintenance on it really easy."
This was also a much higher financial cost. I'm thinking about doing a retrospective video where I talk about things I would do differently. I'm also working on the next video where I connect the manifold to the sprinkler controller. Sadly the file got corrupted, and I kinda had to start over...
Looks ok but not so clean, good luck
Maybe a professional can comment see I had the same issues as u’ previous owner installed sprinkler heads and lines all the way to a 3 way manifold in a green box’ installed a backflow shut off valve’ he for w/e reason never ran water to it’ but he did pipe the main water to manifold above ground for easy find/connection 5ft from outside Faucet’
Yet when I call landscaper they want to run and entire new fn system
Uhmm why? It needs u to plumb water to it then it’s ready to go’ I think they just wanna make money or if there is a reason I’d love to know 4500 for system they want
To bring in new sprinkler system
Topsoil/ manure and hydro seed they want 8k dollars! My yards maybe 80’x40’ seems fn excessive to me so 3500 for u hell I’d take that deal in a heart beat man
Not Brain My Friend
More Flow Bigger Pipe
Think Use Your Intelligence
If Your Irrigation Pump is 2hp or 3 Hp Or 4 hp
For 1 Inch Pipe Will Water Pass Same Flow
Amén
I bet they all leaked.