Awesome job! I really like your choice of using the bedliner instead of black wrinkle, gives them a great durable look! It looks better than the factory powder coat to me!👍
Those valve covers are most likely magnesium and that is why the casting is a little rough in places. The earlier finned valve covers were aluminium (both polished and painted), but they changed to magnesium for the 81 and 82s. Yours may have been changed to aluminium but the rough casting makes me believe it is magnesium. Anyways. Those refinished valve covers lift the whole engine bay. Huge improvement. Need to do the same to my 1980.
What a great look... I really like how the aluminum was exposed. I'm not a huge fan of all chrome but I really like that look. Thanks for another good idea on a winter project ;-)
Tempted to do mine with Hammerite Red. I think I have Edelbrock covers right now. White C3, red interior, and all the other accents I have under the hood are red... Hmm.
Great job 👏 looks great .. was wondering did you have any oil leaks after you installed the covers ? I never had luck with the cork gaskets but I do like the thicker type
The valve cover bolts are 10 mm? Not on my 68 or 70 C3s. Rather than derust my old bolts, I usually replace them with marine grade nuts and bolts. Marine grade: 316 stainless steel. I don't buy at local stores, it's much, much less expensive on line. My favorite is McMaster-Carr. However, you often have to buy in bulk with them. For onesies and twosies, I order from Boltdepot or AlbanyCounty fasteners. Where I live, McMaster's delivers next day. Boltdepot and Albany take about 5 or so business days. Worth the wait. For suspension parts, don't use stainless, use grade 8 alloy bolts...normal grades of stainless don't have adequate tensile strength. McMaster sells aircraft/aerospace rust free fasteners for high tensile strength applications but they are really expensive. They also sell titanium fasteners.
The later year C3s were caught by the transition from standard to metric by US car manufacturers. Thanks for the nut and bolt reseller tips. Good to know. 😊👍🏻
NICE.... Canada here and wondering what is a good radiator? My engine is large block , V8 350 ,5.7 L , and rad is PER17CBR yet old 2011 thus I believe why over heats 210-20 on hot days and has overflow tank . I have a 7 blade clutch and rad cap 160 degrees ... i changed rad fluid looks clean, I barely drive her in town because i care... Also where to get a corvette book and which is appropriate kindly . Thank you for your time with me and others here.💫💫💫Also are these part numbers for parts here are for my 78C too?
The gauges in your dashboard are not precision instruments. I usually refer to them as “idiot lights with needles.” They’re not _that_ accurate. To truly confirm your car is overheating you need to temporarily install a reliable coolant temp gauge and see what it reads. Anyway, these engines were engineered to run normally at coolant temps between 195° and 220°. According to my 76 Corvette owners manual, the car starts overheating once it reaches 250°. Have the radiator cap tested to make sure it’s working properly (they’re rated at 15 lbs). Or maybe it’s time for a coolant flush? As far as a “Corvette book,” I assume you’re talking about a shop and service manual. If so, get a Haynes or Chilton manual. I’d get a used one on eBay. Good luck!
Awesome job! I really like your choice of using the bedliner instead of black wrinkle, gives them a great durable look! It looks better than the factory powder coat to me!👍
Thank you! I’m very happy with how great they turned out. 😊👍🏻
You have no idea how much help you’ve been while I’m working on my 80’ vette, my one stop shop lol. Keep up the awesome videos! 🔥
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Awesome job. Makes them look better than new. Hopefully whoever buys this car will appreciate all the hard work you have put in it.
GREAT JOB !! 1000 % BETTER LOOKING !!! ENGINE BAY ALMOST LOOKS NEW !! GREAT VIDEO !! JESSE VIA LAS VEGAS
Thank you so very much for watching! 😊👍🏻
Those valve covers are most likely magnesium and that is why the casting is a little rough in places. The earlier finned valve covers were aluminium (both polished and painted), but they changed to magnesium for the 81 and 82s. Yours may have been changed to aluminium but the rough casting makes me believe it is magnesium.
Anyways. Those refinished valve covers lift the whole engine bay. Huge improvement. Need to do the same to my 1980.
What a great look... I really like how the aluminum was exposed. I'm not a huge fan of all chrome but I really like that look. Thanks for another good idea on a winter project ;-)
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Another great video. Enjoy your passion for working on your Corvettes.
Thank you so very much for watching! 😊👍🏻
Great job Lewis, I’m going to do my 72. Mine are all silver with the ribs like yours, it really dresses it up
Thank you! 😊👍🏻
Once again another great tech session for the c3 gang.
Thank you so much for watching! 😊👍🏻
Did the valve covers smoke any with the bed liner paint on the initial start up?
I have the same car that I am redoing for my daughter and have found your R&D very helpful and encouraging.
@samramsey3131 No.
@samramsey3131 Thank you! 😊👍🏻
Tempted to do mine with Hammerite Red. I think I have Edelbrock covers right now. White C3, red interior, and all the other accents I have under the hood are red... Hmm.
Great job 👏 looks great .. was wondering did you have any oil leaks after you installed the covers ? I never had luck with the cork gaskets but I do like the thicker type
No leaks. 😊👍🏻
The valve cover bolts are 10 mm? Not on my 68 or 70 C3s. Rather than derust my old bolts, I usually replace them with marine grade nuts and bolts. Marine grade: 316 stainless steel. I don't buy at local stores, it's much, much less expensive on line. My favorite is McMaster-Carr. However, you often have to buy in bulk with them. For onesies and twosies, I order from Boltdepot or AlbanyCounty fasteners. Where I live, McMaster's delivers next day. Boltdepot and Albany take about 5 or so business days. Worth the wait. For suspension parts, don't use stainless, use grade 8 alloy bolts...normal grades of stainless don't have adequate tensile strength. McMaster sells aircraft/aerospace rust free fasteners for high tensile strength applications but they are really expensive. They also sell titanium fasteners.
The later year C3s were caught by the transition from standard to metric by US car manufacturers.
Thanks for the nut and bolt reseller tips. Good to know. 😊👍🏻
NICE.... Canada here and wondering what is a good radiator? My engine is large block , V8 350 ,5.7 L , and rad is PER17CBR yet old 2011 thus I believe why over heats 210-20 on hot days and has overflow tank . I have a 7 blade clutch and rad cap 160 degrees ... i changed rad fluid looks clean, I barely drive her in town because i care... Also where to get a corvette book and which is appropriate kindly . Thank you for your time with me and others here.💫💫💫Also are these part numbers for parts here are for my 78C too?
The gauges in your dashboard are not precision instruments. I usually refer to them as “idiot lights with needles.” They’re not _that_ accurate.
To truly confirm your car is overheating you need to temporarily install a reliable coolant temp gauge and see what it reads.
Anyway, these engines were engineered to run normally at coolant temps between 195° and 220°.
According to my 76 Corvette owners manual, the car starts overheating once it reaches 250°.
Have the radiator cap tested to make sure it’s working properly (they’re rated at 15 lbs).
Or maybe it’s time for a coolant flush?
As far as a “Corvette book,” I assume you’re talking about a shop and service manual. If so, get a Haynes or Chilton manual. I’d get a used one on eBay.
Good luck!
Also I see you're using a cork gasket, do you recommend that over a rubber one for any reason?
If installed properly they work just as well as rubber gaskets do, IMO. Cork gaskets are a rubber/cork composite product anyway. 😊👍🏻
@@76vette Cool, thanks!