After just 2 months of using this hot swap hotend, it failed catastrophically. I CANNOT RECOMMEND this anymore - ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyXz6d8D9ZHuyGYrpCNScjJUM7EkAtqF_
You're thinking the same thing as me. I have the same 3D printer and I'm doing almost the same upgrade. Thank you for your help. I'm looking forward to the future
I followed your videos because I too got linear rails with no instructions, this was the only one I seem to have done first. This is so far the best upgrade I've done in terms of bang for buck.
I make comments before wtaching the video because I am dumb. I thought you did the KE hotend. I did this one too and got a blocked nozzle every time I changed filaments, went back to the KE hotend.
ciao, io ho il problema della temperatura, la stampante ha 15 giorni e peggiorando di giorno in giorno mi dava temperatura -14 ;-) , sono in contatto con l'assistenza per intervento in garanzia ma se si dovesse risolvere cambiando hotend lo faccio io. Cosa mi puoi consigliare?
Thank you for the the wounderful video and instructions! Question: The power is now 60W, is it necessary to change the power supply of the machine and firmware?
The stock power supply is sufficient, and the stock firmware will work too. But if you want to print above 260C, I believe some changes need to be done - I have not tried that yet, but it should be easy with Nebula Pad/Klipper.
The hotend has been working pretty good on my V3se now the sonic pad is a different story it prints fine up to 260c but anything over and I get abnormal heating error the nebula pad I have prints 300c no problem so I know it's not the hotend
Hi. Love the vid! I have also done all the upgrades except the unicorn nozzle. I did all the rails and i have the Nebula pad. Its all working but now i am having problems with layer shifts.. any ideas on that?
Nice, im new here but liked your content so much. I get mine yesterday on ali, hope to be able to print decently. The speed of printing really are improved with it?
Well, yes and no. The nozzle is one thing, the filament another - You can only print as fast as the filament allows. You will have to get a roll of high flow or high speed filament if you want to go fast.
Really liked the intro and enjoyed the music. Great modding as well. Just a couple of doubts: 1)why do you keep the sensor on the printer? Did/Will you make a video related to stock vs unicorn systems (performance, max flow rate, etc) Thanks in advance
Why would I want to remove the touch sensor? It fits without any issues, no modifications needed with this hotend upgrade. And no, not going to make more videos on this. Flow rate is very subjective BTW - Type of filament, temperature, nozzle size, print speed, etc...
1) Higher max temperature - The ceramic hotend can go up to 300c, allowing you to print Nylon and Polycarbonate. 2) Faster heating - Literally cuts the initial heating time into seconds. 3) Quick swap - Don't need to take out the cover/sock, no preheat required. Just replace the nozzle directly.
@@reddotgeekwhat is the difference between the Teflon tube and the stock PTFE Tube? I thought the all metal would get rid of that tube (total noob here as well)
Does anyone know if there is a 0.2mm unicorn nozzle available for purchase? It seems everywhere I look it starts at 0.4mm and goes up from there. Thanks in advance.
Yes, I have a 0.2mm nozzle. Dig around AliExpress and you will find one. Although they are not official, and please be very careful while using this print head - ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyXz6d8D9ZHuyGYrpCNScjJUM7EkAtqF_
Hey. On my kit, I received two Teflon tubes (28mm and 22mm), which use (I think the 22mm). And the Thermal Grease? It's just to fill the package ? :) One more question: To reach 300 degres, you are using Klipper, right ?
I have swapped between 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 nozzles. Not once have I used the Thermal Grease... So yep, guess it's there to fill up space. 🤣 I have only gone up to 240c for PETG, but if I remember correct - You will have to do some changes in the config file.
@@reddotgeek the thermal grease goes on the nozzle where your thumb is @1:15 and you can see the old/dry grey/white grease. Like a CPU, it should be replaced each time you remove the nozzle from the heatsink.
AE's search is sometimes broken... Not sponsored - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007635343952.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.77.3f2f4afdWvPjHp&algo_pvid=27e3c71e-111a-448d-8836-0677ec4e4350&algo_exp_id=27e3c71e-111a-448d-8836-0677ec4e4350-38&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21SGD%2172.76%2136.38%21%21%21385.16%21192.58%21%4021015c7617270757818463707e937d%2112000041588290960%21sea%21SG%21759921972%21X&curPageLogUid=y2JBOoaAfnGY&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
I can tell you that kit upgrade it a piece of shit. Gone thru the one I bought and 2 replacements by the company. The stock screws for the fan won't hold to the new heatsink. Then the screws that hold the hot-end to the heatsink have failed coming loose and falling out, as well as the nozzle has come loose every time after a few prints. Some major flaws to that replacement kit.
I printed an entire Gridfinity drawer, used an entire spool, and swapped between 0.2 0.4 0.6. Nothing came loose, no clogs, perfect prints... I guess I got lucky with a good batch.
@@reddotgeek You did for sure! Apparently I got sent the crap ones in a batch. In general though I've had to do some much work to my KE to fix bad bed level bent shafts, vibration issues, fan fails etc., I'm moving on to another brand.
After just 2 months of using this hot swap hotend, it failed catastrophically. I CANNOT RECOMMEND this anymore - ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyXz6d8D9ZHuyGYrpCNScjJUM7EkAtqF_
Dude, I've been following you for a short time, and as one of your young followers, I congratulate you. I wish you all the best on your journey.
Really like your videos. I got a se and Im following your upgrades and doing them to my printer. Already upgraded linear rails, fans, extruder…
You're thinking the same thing as me. I have the same 3D printer and I'm doing almost the same upgrade.
Thank you for your help. I'm looking forward to the future
Glad it was helpful!
I followed your videos because I too got linear rails with no instructions, this was the only one I seem to have done first. This is so far the best upgrade I've done in terms of bang for buck.
I make comments before wtaching the video because I am dumb. I thought you did the KE hotend. I did this one too and got a blocked nozzle every time I changed filaments, went back to the KE hotend.
It's the opposite for me. 🤣 Tried installing the KE hotend and got "temperature error", gave up and went with the quick swap instead.
@ShaneGoodson , I keep getting clogged with this hotend too, tried to change everything but replacing back - I guess I have to
ciao, io ho il problema della temperatura, la stampante ha 15 giorni e peggiorando di giorno in giorno mi dava temperatura -14 ;-) , sono in contatto con l'assistenza per intervento in garanzia ma se si dovesse risolvere cambiando hotend lo faccio io.
Cosa mi puoi consigliare?
Loved the videos and especially the duck😂😂 appreciate the videos and what you've done 🎉
Glad you like them!
Thank you for the the wounderful video and instructions! Question: The power is now 60W, is it necessary to change the power supply of the machine and firmware?
The stock power supply is sufficient, and the stock firmware will work too. But if you want to print above 260C, I believe some changes need to be done - I have not tried that yet, but it should be easy with Nebula Pad/Klipper.
@@reddotgeek Tks!
What nozzles you got to get to use this ceramic hotend? Can you add a link for those
Added to description, it's called "Creality Unicorn Quick Swap Nozzle". They are also everywhere on Amazon, eBay, AE.
The hotend has been working pretty good on my V3se now the sonic pad is a different story it prints fine up to 260c but anything over and I get abnormal heating error the nebula pad I have prints 300c no problem so I know it's not the hotend
Hi. Love the vid! I have also done all the upgrades except the unicorn nozzle. I did all the rails and i have the Nebula pad. Its all working but now i am having problems with layer shifts.. any ideas on that?
Nice, im new here but liked your content so much. I get mine yesterday on ali, hope to be able to print decently. The speed of printing really are improved with it?
Well, yes and no. The nozzle is one thing, the filament another - You can only print as fast as the filament allows. You will have to get a roll of high flow or high speed filament if you want to go fast.
Really liked the intro and enjoyed the music. Great modding as well. Just a couple of doubts: 1)why do you keep the sensor on the printer? Did/Will you make a video related to stock vs unicorn systems (performance, max flow rate, etc)
Thanks in advance
Why would I want to remove the touch sensor? It fits without any issues, no modifications needed with this hotend upgrade. And no, not going to make more videos on this. Flow rate is very subjective BTW - Type of filament, temperature, nozzle size, print speed, etc...
I'm seein ALL your Ender 3 V3 SE upgrades today, amazing job! But only one question: What improves make this upgrade? Is it worth it?
Worth it... If you intend to print Nylon and Polycarbonate, or if you often swap the nozzle.
@@reddotgeek There's no difference with speed or quality with regular PLA o PETG?
Sorry for my noob question, what advantages for changing the hot end? For variety filament use?
1) Higher max temperature - The ceramic hotend can go up to 300c, allowing you to print Nylon and Polycarbonate.
2) Faster heating - Literally cuts the initial heating time into seconds.
3) Quick swap - Don't need to take out the cover/sock, no preheat required. Just replace the nozzle directly.
@@reddotgeekwhat is the difference between the Teflon tube and the stock PTFE Tube? I thought the all metal would get rid of that tube (total noob here as well)
@@reddotgeekCan you make a video of how to quickly change the nozzle?
Amigo seu videos sao top queria saber trocabdo essa peça ai presiso troca outra coisa alem dela pq a minha ta de fabrica asim ainda
Is the maximum nozzle temperature still 260°? Or has it increased to 300 like KE version?
This nozzle is 60w, max temp is 300C.
Cool. Now there's no need to put some aditional nuts in the CR-TOUCH
Hola amigo, que boquilla usa? Para poder comprar! De la K1!?
does this hotend is like the bambu lab ones which are capable of measuring level or does the level thingy is still needed?
I don't have a Bambu Lab. The SE has a separate CR touch sensor on the print head assembly, and another tension sensor below the hot bed.
@@reddotgeek thanks! being owner of both I must day bambu lab design is so much better, it is capable of sensing level during prints
Hi can i ask if the ceramic hot end fits in the stock cooling block? or do i need to replace also the cooling block?
As in the video - This kit replaces the entire hotend and heatsink.
Does anyone know if there is a 0.2mm unicorn nozzle available for purchase? It seems everywhere I look it starts at 0.4mm and goes up from there. Thanks in advance.
Yes, I have a 0.2mm nozzle. Dig around AliExpress and you will find one. Although they are not official, and please be very careful while using this print head - ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyXz6d8D9ZHuyGYrpCNScjJUM7EkAtqF_
Hey. On my kit, I received two Teflon tubes (28mm and 22mm), which use (I think the 22mm). And the Thermal Grease? It's just to fill the package ? :)
One more question: To reach 300 degres, you are using Klipper, right ?
I have swapped between 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 nozzles. Not once have I used the Thermal Grease... So yep, guess it's there to fill up space. 🤣 I have only gone up to 240c for PETG, but if I remember correct - You will have to do some changes in the config file.
@@reddotgeek Here is working great.. Better that the original. Thanks man.
@@reddotgeek the thermal grease goes on the nozzle where your thumb is @1:15 and you can see the old/dry grey/white grease. Like a CPU, it should be replaced each time you remove the nozzle from the heatsink.
You should also do a PID tune so Klipper knows how to regulate the new hot end's temperature.
@@GeoffSeeley I am new to Klipper... What do you mean? :)
brother cant find the item on your description link. i wanna try it out too, cant find it even if i googled it
AE's search is sometimes broken... Not sponsored - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007635343952.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.77.3f2f4afdWvPjHp&algo_pvid=27e3c71e-111a-448d-8836-0677ec4e4350&algo_exp_id=27e3c71e-111a-448d-8836-0677ec4e4350-38&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21SGD%2172.76%2136.38%21%21%21385.16%21192.58%21%4021015c7617270757818463707e937d%2112000041588290960%21sea%21SG%21759921972%21X&curPageLogUid=y2JBOoaAfnGY&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
I can tell you that kit upgrade it a piece of shit. Gone thru the one I bought and 2 replacements by the company. The stock screws for the fan won't hold to the new heatsink. Then the screws that hold the hot-end to the heatsink have failed coming loose and falling out, as well as the nozzle has come loose every time after a few prints. Some major flaws to that replacement kit.
I printed an entire Gridfinity drawer, used an entire spool, and swapped between 0.2 0.4 0.6. Nothing came loose, no clogs, perfect prints... I guess I got lucky with a good batch.
@@reddotgeek You did for sure! Apparently I got sent the crap ones in a batch. In general though I've had to do some much work to my KE to fix bad bed level bent shafts, vibration issues, fan fails etc., I'm moving on to another brand.