Someone already mentioned this but it needs repeating. The moment you wiped the Raspian OS, all your overclocking was removed. Remember, you were setting your overclock in config files in the OS. You were running Batocera at stock speeds. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it has the same configuration files as Raspian OS since it is based on it.
How ever the issue that retropie is in though is it has no full rpi 5 image. you have to get the rpios and build from that and then deal with the headaches of emulations being out of date. there's been a lot of forums on rpi5 support in it's website but so far it's a lot of build it yourself and not many emulators built to run rpi5 in 64bit. mostly a lot of 3rd party repo adding. using batocera at least gives you fully updated emulators that work with 64bit. (note this is based off of what info i found in retro pie forums since 2023. I'm unwilling to buy and run a rpi5 due to limited support and recently fixed gpu support. not worth it for a rpi4 with large emulator support in 32bit.
For anyone who wants to use a stock pi5.... the temps are fine. His testing was a little disengenious. The stock ihs helps quite a bit as opposed to the die just being expoosed to air. Thermal pads are also much easier to use to fill gaps.
And if you want to be lazy there's also thermal gel or puddy, which don't run. If you don't want to guess the pad thickness. You see it as that bubble gum colored stuff on many GPU's. Some types also act as thermal adhesive to avoid mounting mechanisms. Furthermore, he didn't need to use exotic filament like CF-Nylon as ABS (like most PC components) are already made of for a reason. But yeah, the guy is building a bike and ended up with a jet engine powered pedal assist with gyroscopes to help balance the bike. Still only a 3 speed and Walmart tires. Even with the 1.1v 3.1GHz OC I'm sure the water loop didn't even need to have the pump running... At this point I feel like Moleman from the Simpsons, I want my 5 minutes of my life back
@MrHeHim I'm a firm believer in doing something just because I can, but I never pass it off as something that is needed. To his credit he did mention that it isnt necessary, but that was at the end of the video already. The custom case and everything was cool. I just don't like the attitude of "you have to this to get the most out of it" you really don't.
But does the IHS help mostly by adding extra thermal mass, meaning it’ll still reach similar temps but it’ll just take longer, or does it really help dissipate the heat. Because I’m not sure that a basically flat piece of metal like an IHS really radiates much heat so I would assume that it mainly provides some extra thermal mass rather than extra dissipation. But I could be wrong. And of course you can always stick a small heatsink on the IHS which will help dissipate the heat, even more so if you pair it with a fan as is commonly included in good Pi case kits, but you’re still limited by the size, and fins density, of the heatsinks you can physically mount on a Pi as well as the size of the fans (and the air volume they can move). I know from experience they provide enough cooling for most uses, even without a fan you can already get pretty okay performance (and the Pi shouldn’t fry itself since it has temperature limits), but there is little doubt in my mind that you can extract more performance and even some overlocking headroom with a better cooling capacity. Whether you need it or not is another question but if you truly want to get the most performance physically possible then you probably should look beyond the typical small heatsink and fan combo most people use with commonly available Pi cases. Although even then you probably don’t need to break out the small PC sized watercooling setup (though if you’re gonna go through the trouble of watercooling then why not) and you most likely don’t need to custom build a CPU block lol
@aurelienlux oh your absolutely right, to get more performance you will mostly likely need better cooling. I didn't do a good job of articulating my point. I apologize. What I was trying to say was, if you just want to emulate retro games, the stock ihs is fine. And I think you are correct that the ihs just adds more thermal mass as opposed to actually cooling it. A heatsink would do both.
He got a pretty meaningless result, I'm sure using the standard active cooling solution would have given him low enough temperatures to do whatever he needed (and been way cheaper/easier).
The problem was that the button was a lot higher thank CPU, and you would not want to put thermal pad on CPU if you removed ihs for thermals in the first place
For any DIYers 17:15 - pantyhose works really well at still allowing decent airflow while providing 10x the dust collection of wire mesh. That way you don’t have a dust sieve that leaves finer dust in your enclosure.
As an engineer that's worked with a lot of copper block water cooling systems in the metals industry, just resting the block on top of the unmodified CPU (with cover) and adding a little thermal paste on between the two, would have given sufficient heat transfer.
Distilled water is actually the best liquid for heat transfer, with no additives at all. The coolant that is sold in pre-mix solutions has glycol, anti-biotic and anti-corrosive agents mixed in to prevent freezing and blockage. All of these additives *reduce* the effectiveness of heat transfer. Since this Pi (and most PCs) is not going to be in freezing temps, the glycol is useless. Anti-corrosion additives are not needed if all metals in the loop are the same (a lot of loops are a combination of aluminum and copper, but it is common to get fully copper watercooling loops). Anti-bio additives are the only thing that are necessary in most loops, unless you want to swap out the liquid and completely clean the loop every few months. You can buy small bottles of anti-bio additive for this purpose.
@@stevencoad9224 When I built my loop, I went through a few pre-mix brands over a couple months, I finally just bought some biocide. I dumped the small bottle of biocide into a gallon of distilled water and I have not had any debris in the loop for around 6 months now. Glycol is the worst thing for a loop, and I genuinely believe the only reason they use it in pre-mix solutions is to sell the cleaner that you need to get all of the glycol stickiness/smell out of the loop.
For people not liking the liquid biocides; there's also high-purity silver coils sold for biocidal purposes. For the love of yourself, don't run any system entirely without it for periods over half a year. Once had a bit of runaway when the loop looked just fine about 5-6months in, and was a full-on disaster to clean (mainly the innards of the blocks) around 11mo. in Probably means a contaminant was already either in the liquid or water, though after adding the silver coil it never got that bad, i usually flushed the loop every 6 to 12 mo. without issue since.
A number of things to note here. A. It’s pronounced like “bottosarah” or, more phonetically “baw-toe-sarah”. B. Your overclock only was active on the pi install. When you installed Batocera, that wiped the overclock. It’s a software overclock, and not a persistent hardware overclock. C. Thermal pads would have been a better choice for thermals transfer. D. As another has said, your 84 degree temp was rather disingenuous as you had the IHS removed. That little plate actually wicks away a decent amount of heat. D. You should have installed some kapton tape on the cpu where where there wasn’t direct die contact. There’s a number of onboard caps and resistors that are almost the same height of the cpu die. Your heatsink plate doesn’t stop from over tightening so you have a very high chance of shorting out the cpu since you removed the IHS.
I am glad someone else noticed the overclocked issue. As far as I know Batocera does not allow you to provide software level overclocking. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it relies on the same files to provide a software overclock.
@ integrated heat spreader. (It’s the top metal metal part on your cpu that makes contact with the cpu cooler to properly cool your cpu. And as this is a very low tdp cpu, the IHS would make significant difference to how much the temperature would have been if it was still on.
Every time I see a video of water cooling I always get reminded of a specific video. And it's what makes me want to make a loop, just to fill my PC with vodka.
@@Jo_HGSmix vodka 1:1 w alcohol n test conductivity. U get 60% vodka, which I heard is used as cooling liquid. BTW possibly alcohol will destroy glued connections.
Potential upgrade idea for a Mk.II-- install a M.2 NVme Pi Hat (be sure to change the settings from PCIe Gen2 to Gen3.) on the Pi5 using the ePCIe connection.
Why not use an old XP or Win7 computer instead? It's pretty easy to find a small micro-atx box for less than 50$ or maybe even for free. It's not hard to find one that is more powerful than a Pi5, even if you underclock it enough to stay silent... You'll be about to install any Linux distribution you want with plenty of choice for your retro gaming software. You don't need to do any 3D printing or water cooling, etc... Just a quick clean up if it's dusty and it's good to go.
There are 3rd party boards available that plug into the side of the Pi5 and move the USB-C & HDMI ports to the back. They also make the HDMI ports full-sized.
If you don't search for hype on topic "water cooling RPI5", and really search for something that you said about retro emulation beast I know some variants. 1st one is Radxa x4, it's if you want/need RPI size. But I'd rather go and buy ASRock X600, took mini STX board of it and use regular AM5 water block it top of Ryzen 8700g. You steel will need to create custom case for all of that, and all that will be in similar volume case to your RPI5. But overall performance will be "a little" more that RPI5 😊
Was thinking just that. I mean, if i look at the Mac Mini across the room, if i don't care about price, Apple has that covered off the box. If I'm price conscious, there's no end of x86 NUC's that will "outsize and outperform" this "frankenstein". The Radxa x4 i don't think fits. It's more of a kludge to have a Pi's "hats" on x86 than anything. Personally, think just having a Pi-Zero inside the NUC connected to the internal USB and exposing the GPIO as an external header like the Pi-400 does is a lot more sane, if less cheap...
@@HouglumFamily sometime internet archive has some. Just really look up a specific games roms. (Just avoid the one called Roms R Fun or something like that.)
A few years ago, I got curious after watching those fishtank PC builds, so I took my RPi4 and modified a plastic tub, got 2 small fans, filled the tub up with non-conductive liquid, hooked up the fans, with them side by side, one push the other pull. Surprisngly, it worked just fine, one day I will do it again, but next time, a custom case. :P
A rougher surface would have more area for the heat to be transferred from the thermal paste right? That's why coolera have fins right? They are faster at absorbing and decorating heat right? Or dis I misunderstand something?
No. You want a smooth surface on the cooling block to maximize contact and consistency. The fins are good at increasing air exposure which increases the surface area for cooling, but the block should be smooth to ensure an even spread of heat and no specific hot spots.
@basspuppy133 maximum contact happens in a rough surface right? If the fins provide maximum contact to air exposure, then they provide maximum contact to liquid exposure too (thermal paste). I get that there should be no hot spots. But still the surface area will increase with a rough surface.
@@neilcoelho if you have a rough finish you have some spots with less contact directly with the thing it's trying to cool and it reduces efficiency. the increase in surface area is not enough to off put the decrease in efficiency that causes. that's why all cooling blocks are flat and smooth.
I'd personally shave the cooling fins off the official cooling heatsink, cut out the right shape, and then solder the water block into the hole. It would also allow for removal of the block.
Commenting before finishing so forgive me if this gets shown. Nylon does have a high heat deflection and glass transition temperature. However, nylon will deform a lot more under stress than something like ABS. I think a better usage for the mount would have been ABS-GF. Additionally do not have to worry about absorbing or inhaling carbon fiber particles. While it wouldn't be great to absorb glass fibers in your body, they are at least able to be broken down. Carbon fiber is like asbestos. It doesn't get broken down by your body.
11:26 Please stop using Silicone in place of Silicon. Silicone is a crosslinked polymer of polydimethylsiloxane. Silicon is element 14 on the periodic table. The Polydimethylsiloxane molecule is 1 atom of Silicon, 1 atom of Oxygen, 2 atoms of Carbon and 6 atoms of Hydrogen. Semiconductors are made from crystals of Pure Silicon that is then doped with small amounts of metallic ions like Boron, Phosphorus, Arsenic, Antimony ect. These Ions interact with the valence electron layer of the silicon creating either a positive or negative state. I don't want to be rude, I just want people who fall into the Scientific/Educational side of the internet to communicate correct information to the young engineers and scientists of the future. We all make mistakes, what's important is we try to learn from them.
you can get 5V fans and a 5V pump (the kind found in pet waterbowls) they usually have 3Meters of head pressure / 2Liters per minute. it would be more of a closed with a T for a fill port, but it would greatly simply the design and just power everything from the pi header. As shown here, you can use cheap pla (I would prefer PETG) because if the copper plate gets up to 50C, you're doing something wrong
I mean you could have just taken a board with an 5105 or even just an N100 for cheaper and fully complete with cooling. The Pi5 is wayy to overpriced for the hardware, The Raspberry Makers are out of their minds. You can buy a full mini PC for the same price with less hardware issues and better CPUs with more build-in features.
I remember like 10 years ago when the pi was about education, they'd bring Pis to my school to teach us students about coding and programming. With the steamdeck pushing emudeck it has made emulating much easier now. Even a cheap phone is a better option now for emulation but pi videos still do well it seems
100% An Intel/AMD box running Windows or Linux will be less expensive (and more expandable) than a Pi 5. Since the Pi 4, this has been the case. I've purchased old thin-client Thinkcentre's from Ebay for like $50 that far outperform the Pi 5.
Came for this kind of comment. Boggles my mind that someone is willing to put in the time/money to achieve like 30% of the performance of a recent-ish cheap mini PC for like 4 times as much money.
Just a forewarning, I would recommend you don’t show Nintendo games when you demonstrating emulators. Nintendo has been on a war path recently and hit Retro Game Corps with two copyright strikes. I don’t want to see any other content creators be affected by the Nintendo’s blatant abuse of the copyright system.
It's not that big of a deal tbf. People will choose the option that costs less and does more for them. Maybe that's something Nintendo could emulate for a change.
The biggest problem with Raspberry Pi right now is once you've bought the cooler and shell, you could have spent nearly the same amount of money and got a 3.5ghz x86 Intel powered Beelink S12 (which still ships with Windows).
Yeah, you really need more power that the Pi's GPU can offer. I'd LOVE to see some Snapdragon based SBC's, but the dev kits that are out right now are HILARIOUSLY expensive. The Adreno 750 is an absolute BEAST. On my S24 Ultra, I'm running pretty much any PS2 game I want. The only one I haven't been able to get running with AetherSX2 is Armored Core 3
24:08 to be fair, neither windows or macos would even be able to *run* a setup like this, and even if they did, getting this kind of performance out of it would be even harder to do, if not also impossible. Linux is harder to use most often in these situations because it lets you do things that are harder to do.
> neither windows or macos would even be able to run a setup like this [...] getting this kind of performance out of it would be even harder to do lol what
@@adamsfusion I am not saying you cannot run emulators on windows. I am saying running windows on the pi, and then overclocking the pi from within windows would be much more difficult while yeilding worse performance than using linux for the same job.
I am happy to see that his Raspberry Pi did not get damaged after trying the most extreme settings. He was willing to overclock to destruction, but it still runs.
Great video as always! Would love to see how much the overall performance would improve if the SD card was replaced and the Pi booted off/used an M.2 drive via the PCIe interface. Keep up the great work.👍
Instead of trying to turn a raspberry pi into something it was never meant to be, you'd be better much further ahead if you had just used a more powerful system to start with.
That was my precise thought. Why not just by a NUC that's like 3 generations older for cheap? I'd assume it'd orders of magnitude more powerful. Maybe I'm missing something
Well it is a test lot's of thing could be different and he could use different but you know , let's learn together i am mechanical engineer student and i know increasing the copper heat sink width might make it worst and it is better to use past, but no body is perfect just enjoy a good man do a test ❤
you could probably buy a mini pc and gut it to do this without this many modifications and it will still come out cheaper. amazing content and very insightful regardless!
"because of this low quality thermal plaste" lol, wtf? *a few minutes later in the video, realizes he's selling "pro" thermal paste*... "oh, that's why..."
I jumped the Pi/Retropie ship this month. I know you used Batocera which is also good. I have been using Pi's since the early 2's for emulation and keep buying new ones all the time. I refrained from the 5 as I would be about $500 total into Pi's. So what does one do? Well, FPGA! As we speak I am building my MiSTer and getting ready to rock. Retropie/Batocera are awesome and so is the PI, but it just takes so much time to configure everything. And, emulation is great, but hardware recreation is even better! Still, great vid as usual!
Congratulations, with all this work. You've made the Raspberry Pi slightly less powerful than the Steam Deck! 😜 This is a very interesting project! I'm interested to see what can be done with it through optimization in the future.
Great video - cool to see your process. I've been using Linux since it was released during my freshman year of my computer engineering undergrad degree, and have been a Pi enthusiast for years. Same with 3D printing and electronics. I might have been inspired to try this myself, actually! Thanks!
Btw as someone who uses PACF a lot, check that part in a months time. Will be as straight as banana. Heat resistant does not mean holds shape with a constant force over time unfortunately :(
instead of support interface, try using water-soluble filament to go between, it dissolves in water and leaves a beautiful finish with no risk of breaking the print while removing supports
5:52 It’s not as flat as a factory heat sink though. I guess that doesn’t matter if you’re appropriately applying thermal paste, but machining a surface flat with outperform whatever sanding you’re doing
Even though your robot vaccuum is pretty sweet (and makes me jealous) I would personally ass a dust filter to stave your pi off from eventual crud buildup. Love the vid! I want to do something similar for my home pir server! Just have to buy a pi 5 first...
Hi, I don't know much about home watercooling, so not on the head (nor the balls ;-p), but instead of blowing the tank and the RPi5 with hot air, why not reverse the air flow and use a micro-converter-raiser from 5 Vcc to 12 Vcc for the fan ?
considering a lot of engineering youtubers feel absolutely clueless and just lie lol, I was pleasantly surprised to see your video actually being quite informative
running geekbench with a bare die is, in light words, not the brightest idea. Some parts of the chip don't have temp sensors, meaning you could have EASILY fried your pi.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Remove or blur Nintendo games from the video. They are in witch hunt mode right now
Came down here to second this. Retro Game Corps got TWO strikes for daring to show Nintendo games being emulated. Watch out, man.
*yuzu memories intensify* Nintendo really takes emulation serious. Like @joep1984 said, watch out.
Yep. Please, brother, don’t give them an excuse. They are out for blood right now.
RIP ryujinx, yuzu, and citra
@@ThylineTheGay i still have yuzu
Someone already mentioned this but it needs repeating. The moment you wiped the Raspian OS, all your overclocking was removed. Remember, you were setting your overclock in config files in the OS. You were running Batocera at stock speeds. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it has the same configuration files as Raspian OS since it is based on it.
How ever the issue that retropie is in though is it has no full rpi 5 image. you have to get the rpios and build from that and then deal with the headaches of emulations being out of date. there's been a lot of forums on rpi5 support in it's website but so far it's a lot of build it yourself and not many emulators built to run rpi5 in 64bit. mostly a lot of 3rd party repo adding. using batocera at least gives you fully updated emulators that work with 64bit. (note this is based off of what info i found in retro pie forums since 2023. I'm unwilling to buy and run a rpi5 due to limited support and recently fixed gpu support. not worth it for a rpi4 with large emulator support in 32bit.
PopOS also has a new version for raspberry pi i saw when looking around .
Did rpi5 finally change the sd bus because my experience is that intermitten freezing because the busses are so busy.
For anyone who wants to use a stock pi5.... the temps are fine. His testing was a little disengenious. The stock ihs helps quite a bit as opposed to the die just being expoosed to air. Thermal pads are also much easier to use to fill gaps.
And if you want to be lazy there's also thermal gel or puddy, which don't run. If you don't want to guess the pad thickness. You see it as that bubble gum colored stuff on many GPU's. Some types also act as thermal adhesive to avoid mounting mechanisms.
Furthermore, he didn't need to use exotic filament like CF-Nylon as ABS (like most PC components) are already made of for a reason.
But yeah, the guy is building a bike and ended up with a jet engine powered pedal assist with gyroscopes to help balance the bike. Still only a 3 speed and Walmart tires.
Even with the 1.1v 3.1GHz OC I'm sure the water loop didn't even need to have the pump running... At this point I feel like Moleman from the Simpsons, I want my 5 minutes of my life back
@MrHeHim I'm a firm believer in doing something just because I can, but I never pass it off as something that is needed. To his credit he did mention that it isnt necessary, but that was at the end of the video already. The custom case and everything was cool. I just don't like the attitude of "you have to this to get the most out of it" you really don't.
But does the IHS help mostly by adding extra thermal mass, meaning it’ll still reach similar temps but it’ll just take longer, or does it really help dissipate the heat. Because I’m not sure that a basically flat piece of metal like an IHS really radiates much heat so I would assume that it mainly provides some extra thermal mass rather than extra dissipation. But I could be wrong.
And of course you can always stick a small heatsink on the IHS which will help dissipate the heat, even more so if you pair it with a fan as is commonly included in good Pi case kits, but you’re still limited by the size, and fins density, of the heatsinks you can physically mount on a Pi as well as the size of the fans (and the air volume they can move). I know from experience they provide enough cooling for most uses, even without a fan you can already get pretty okay performance (and the Pi shouldn’t fry itself since it has temperature limits), but there is little doubt in my mind that you can extract more performance and even some overlocking headroom with a better cooling capacity.
Whether you need it or not is another question but if you truly want to get the most performance physically possible then you probably should look beyond the typical small heatsink and fan combo most people use with commonly available Pi cases. Although even then you probably don’t need to break out the small PC sized watercooling setup (though if you’re gonna go through the trouble of watercooling then why not) and you most likely don’t need to custom build a CPU block lol
@aurelienlux oh your absolutely right, to get more performance you will mostly likely need better cooling. I didn't do a good job of articulating my point. I apologize. What I was trying to say was, if you just want to emulate retro games, the stock ihs is fine. And I think you are correct that the ihs just adds more thermal mass as opposed to actually cooling it. A heatsink would do both.
a big block and some heat pipes is the way i would go
Doing the 'stock' thermal testing with the IHS off was... a choice.
Yeah totally a big brain move , just like his "best handheld modded to be even better"
He got a pretty meaningless result, I'm sure using the standard active cooling solution would have given him low enough temperatures to do whatever he needed (and been way cheaper/easier).
This will probably sound like "back seat driving", but a thermal pad would have solved a lot of the issues you came across :)
...but.... he has to sell that "pro" thermal paste...
The problem was that the button was a lot higher thank CPU, and you would not want to put thermal pad on CPU if you removed ihs for thermals in the first place
A lot of this to me felt like a typical case of overengineering. Nevertheless, it's fun to see people go the extra mile.
@@unstablenl agreed
RUclips is cool because people who post advice (good or bad) are engaging with the content and giving ideas. good ideas or bad ideas!
For any DIYers 17:15 - pantyhose works really well at still allowing decent airflow while providing 10x the dust collection of wire mesh. That way you don’t have a dust sieve that leaves finer dust in your enclosure.
Hmmm... 😏
@@aeaeaeaeoaeaeaeaeae💀
Instructions unclear, d*** stuck in pantyhose contraption.
I actually saw a PC build sponsored by a pantyhose company for these reasons lol
Wait! This is actually pretty smart, you can even make it more or less dense of a filter depending on how much you stretch it.
As an engineer that's worked with a lot of copper block water cooling systems in the metals industry, just resting the block on top of the unmodified CPU (with cover) and adding a little thermal paste on between the two, would have given sufficient heat transfer.
And modern thermal tapes are also efficient enough to avoid creating a bracket for this situation.
THANK YOU!
11:03 heh, hello there!
pi man! :D
i was going to comment about you doing overclocking the pi
hi jeff
General Kenobi!
Of all the coincidences in the world....
Distilled water is actually the best liquid for heat transfer, with no additives at all. The coolant that is sold in pre-mix solutions has glycol, anti-biotic and anti-corrosive agents mixed in to prevent freezing and blockage. All of these additives *reduce* the effectiveness of heat transfer.
Since this Pi (and most PCs) is not going to be in freezing temps, the glycol is useless. Anti-corrosion additives are not needed if all metals in the loop are the same (a lot of loops are a combination of aluminum and copper, but it is common to get fully copper watercooling loops). Anti-bio additives are the only thing that are necessary in most loops, unless you want to swap out the liquid and completely clean the loop every few months. You can buy small bottles of anti-bio additive for this purpose.
Came here to say this, I run just distilled in my loop (cpu/gpu/2rads), I change it about every 9-12 months and have never had any issues.
@@stevencoad9224 When I built my loop, I went through a few pre-mix brands over a couple months, I finally just bought some biocide. I dumped the small bottle of biocide into a gallon of distilled water and I have not had any debris in the loop for around 6 months now. Glycol is the worst thing for a loop, and I genuinely believe the only reason they use it in pre-mix solutions is to sell the cleaner that you need to get all of the glycol stickiness/smell out of the loop.
I came here to say this man, thank you
For people not liking the liquid biocides; there's also high-purity silver coils sold for biocidal purposes.
For the love of yourself, don't run any system entirely without it for periods over half a year.
Once had a bit of runaway when the loop looked just fine about 5-6months in, and was a full-on disaster to clean (mainly the innards of the blocks) around 11mo. in
Probably means a contaminant was already either in the liquid or water, though after adding the silver coil it never got that bad, i usually flushed the loop every 6 to 12 mo. without issue since.
@@tz496 Would adding a silver coin in the water reservoir work?
A number of things to note here.
A. It’s pronounced like “bottosarah” or, more phonetically “baw-toe-sarah”.
B. Your overclock only was active on the pi install. When you installed Batocera, that wiped the overclock. It’s a software overclock, and not a persistent hardware overclock.
C. Thermal pads would have been a better choice for thermals transfer.
D. As another has said, your 84 degree temp was rather disingenuous as you had the IHS removed. That little plate actually wicks away a decent amount of heat.
D. You should have installed some kapton tape on the cpu where where there wasn’t direct die contact. There’s a number of onboard caps and resistors that are almost the same height of the cpu die. Your heatsink plate doesn’t stop from over tightening so you have a very high chance of shorting out the cpu since you removed the IHS.
Yes, he is not a very intelligent person typical over privileged American
I am glad someone else noticed the overclocked issue. As far as I know Batocera does not allow you to provide software level overclocking. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it relies on the same files to provide a software overclock.
"Brazing" vs "soldering" another nitpick of mine
Bruh, this was a Eufy vacuum ad
@@thewolfinDid he not do brazing? I thought that was essentially what brazing was, joining copper together with solder and a torch.
I am sure your initial temperature would have been much more reasonable if u still had the stock ihs on, 88c at idle is ridiculous
What’s IHS?
@ integrated heat spreader. (It’s the top metal metal part on your cpu that makes contact with the cpu cooler to properly cool your cpu. And as this is a very low tdp cpu, the IHS would make significant difference to how much the temperature would have been if it was still on.
@@namirahnaf711ah I see, it’s essentially a heat sink if I’m not mistaken
@@AdamBeyond pretty much
"This IHS is garbage"
"I'll make a worse one!"
Every time I see a video of water cooling I always get reminded of a specific video. And it's what makes me want to make a loop, just to fill my PC with vodka.
Boris' vodka cooled pc is a legendary video
@@Jo_HGSmix vodka 1:1 w alcohol n test conductivity. U get 60% vodka, which I heard is used as cooling liquid. BTW possibly alcohol will destroy glued connections.
Don't forget the mayonnaise thermal paste.
Who you are today, Zac, is who I aspire to be once I retire and have time to enjoy such projects! 🍻
@examen1996cus work
@@SDRIFTERAbdlmounaimHasn't stopped Zac
@@Mooskislide different ppl, different situations
@@SDRIFTERAbdlmounaim as someone who works 50-60 hours a week I agree.
@@SvRider512 good luck mate, hope you can still manage to have few fun activities to balance it out !
Potential upgrade idea for a Mk.II-- install a M.2 NVme Pi Hat (be sure to change the settings from PCIe Gen2 to Gen3.) on the Pi5 using the ePCIe connection.
Why not use an old XP or Win7 computer instead? It's pretty easy to find a small micro-atx box for less than 50$ or maybe even for free. It's not hard to find one that is more powerful than a Pi5, even if you underclock it enough to stay silent... You'll be about to install any Linux distribution you want with plenty of choice for your retro gaming software. You don't need to do any 3D printing or water cooling, etc... Just a quick clean up if it's dusty and it's good to go.
I like this pushed to limit / upgrade series
Plz keep making these🎉
There are 3rd party boards available that plug into the side of the Pi5 and move the USB-C & HDMI ports to the back. They also make the HDMI ports full-sized.
If you don't search for hype on topic "water cooling RPI5", and really search for something that you said about retro emulation beast I know some variants. 1st one is Radxa x4, it's if you want/need RPI size. But I'd rather go and buy ASRock X600, took mini STX board of it and use regular AM5 water block it top of Ryzen 8700g. You steel will need to create custom case for all of that, and all that will be in similar volume case to your RPI5. But overall performance will be "a little" more that RPI5 😊
Was thinking just that. I mean, if i look at the Mac Mini across the room, if i don't care about price, Apple has that covered off the box. If I'm price conscious, there's no end of x86 NUC's that will "outsize and outperform" this "frankenstein". The Radxa x4 i don't think fits. It's more of a kludge to have a Pi's "hats" on x86 than anything. Personally, think just having a Pi-Zero inside the NUC connected to the internal USB and exposing the GPIO as an external header like the Pi-400 does is a lot more sane, if less cheap...
Remember kids, Its not stealing if its stealing from a big company. Especially if its a bigg company that got rid of their own emulation services.
What is backwards compatibility? Can i eat that?
If buying isn’t owning, piracy isn’t stealing.
Where do you find the ROMs?
@@HouglumFamily sometime internet archive has some. Just really look up a specific games roms. (Just avoid the one called Roms R Fun or something like that.)
Do you have discord ? I can't tell you there
Always enjoying your videos! Nice job
A few years ago, I got curious after watching those fishtank PC builds, so I took my RPi4 and modified a plastic tub, got 2 small fans, filled the tub up with non-conductive liquid, hooked up the fans, with them side by side, one push the other pull.
Surprisngly, it worked just fine, one day I will do it again, but next time, a custom case. :P
A rougher surface would have more area for the heat to be transferred from the thermal paste right?
That's why coolera have fins right? They are faster at absorbing and decorating heat right?
Or dis I misunderstand something?
No. You want a smooth surface on the cooling block to maximize contact and consistency. The fins are good at increasing air exposure which increases the surface area for cooling, but the block should be smooth to ensure an even spread of heat and no specific hot spots.
@basspuppy133 maximum contact happens in a rough surface right? If the fins provide maximum contact to air exposure, then they provide maximum contact to liquid exposure too (thermal paste).
I get that there should be no hot spots. But still the surface area will increase with a rough surface.
@@neilcoelho if you have a rough finish you have some spots with less contact directly with the thing it's trying to cool and it reduces efficiency. the increase in surface area is not enough to off put the decrease in efficiency that causes. that's why all cooling blocks are flat and smooth.
Lol, as soon as I saw that no name Amazon fan, I knew it was gonna get replaced with a Noctua
I'd personally shave the cooling fins off the official cooling heatsink, cut out the right shape, and then solder the water block into the hole. It would also allow for removal of the block.
I can't get enough of these little retro gaming machine builds!
Commenting before finishing so forgive me if this gets shown. Nylon does have a high heat deflection and glass transition temperature. However, nylon will deform a lot more under stress than something like ABS. I think a better usage for the mount would have been ABS-GF. Additionally do not have to worry about absorbing or inhaling carbon fiber particles. While it wouldn't be great to absorb glass fibers in your body, they are at least able to be broken down. Carbon fiber is like asbestos. It doesn't get broken down by your body.
11:26 Please stop using Silicone in place of Silicon. Silicone is a crosslinked polymer of polydimethylsiloxane. Silicon is element 14 on the periodic table. The Polydimethylsiloxane molecule is 1 atom of Silicon, 1 atom of Oxygen, 2 atoms of Carbon and 6 atoms of Hydrogen. Semiconductors are made from crystals of Pure Silicon that is then doped with small amounts of metallic ions like Boron, Phosphorus, Arsenic, Antimony ect. These Ions interact with the valence electron layer of the silicon creating either a positive or negative state. I don't want to be rude, I just want people who fall into the Scientific/Educational side of the internet to communicate correct information to the young engineers and scientists of the future. We all make mistakes, what's important is we try to learn from them.
Yeah he also said "Hoose" instead of House
You have to be the funniest guy at parties
So which one is right?
It’s just a word man
you can boost the raspberry pi by
putting an nvme drive on as well
You could've just used PTM9750... wtf? 4:30
Fr
you can get 5V fans and a 5V pump (the kind found in pet waterbowls) they usually have 3Meters of head pressure / 2Liters per minute. it would be more of a closed with a T for a fill port, but it would greatly simply the design and just power everything from the pi header.
As shown here, you can use cheap pla (I would prefer PETG) because if the copper plate gets up to 50C, you're doing something wrong
me screaming, USE THERMAL PADS AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a true incredible project you put together well done! Very impressive.
Your videos are the craziest tech videos for sure ❤
I love these kinds of builds! Water cooling is my jam though lol. Anything ridiculous or overkill is so entertaining to me.
DIY perks collab when? ;)
Hopefully soon, but what would they do?
This guy isn’t even close to the same league at diy perks.
not even on the same playing field bro
20:54 Diddy kong racing😂😂😂😂
I mean you could have just taken a board with an 5105 or even just an N100 for cheaper and fully complete with cooling.
The Pi5 is wayy to overpriced for the hardware, The Raspberry Makers are out of their minds.
You can buy a full mini PC for the same price with less hardware issues and better CPUs with more build-in features.
I remember like 10 years ago when the pi was about education, they'd bring Pis to my school to teach us students about coding and programming. With the steamdeck pushing emudeck it has made emulating much easier now. Even a cheap phone is a better option now for emulation but pi videos still do well it seems
Facts. Pi5 is cool. But for the price + accessories (especially a water cooler lol), you are far better of getting a SFF for less $$$ and more power.
100% An Intel/AMD box running Windows or Linux will be less expensive (and more expandable) than a Pi 5. Since the Pi 4, this has been the case. I've purchased old thin-client Thinkcentre's from Ebay for like $50 that far outperform the Pi 5.
Came for this kind of comment. Boggles my mind that someone is willing to put in the time/money to achieve like 30% of the performance of a recent-ish cheap mini PC for like 4 times as much money.
Subscribed. Brilliant vid.
Just a forewarning, I would recommend you don’t show Nintendo games when you demonstrating emulators. Nintendo has been on a war path recently and hit Retro Game Corps with two copyright strikes. I don’t want to see any other content creators be affected by the Nintendo’s blatant abuse of the copyright system.
It's not that big of a deal tbf. People will choose the option that costs less and does more for them. Maybe that's something Nintendo could emulate for a change.
That is actually awesome. You built what probably is the best raspberry pie gaming rigs. The case for it was the icing on the cake.
The biggest problem with Raspberry Pi right now is once you've bought the cooler and shell, you could have spent nearly the same amount of money and got a 3.5ghz x86 Intel powered Beelink S12 (which still ships with Windows).
It's worth going the Pi route because it doesn't come with windows.
Or a used office mini pc
Nobody pays for windows 😂
@@cdenczek I spent five dollars on my last copy of Windows, whaddayamean "nobody pays" 😂
YOU DID IT ZACKAERY!!! GODD JOB
the retroid pocket can do all this plus ps2 for the same price and way less effort
The Retroid Pocket is quite small and not ideal for most of the Games. I personally regret buying one.
@@DerKlemm-Crafter dock it and it’s still cheaper than this
Yeah, you really need more power that the Pi's GPU can offer. I'd LOVE to see some Snapdragon based SBC's, but the dev kits that are out right now are HILARIOUSLY expensive. The Adreno 750 is an absolute BEAST. On my S24 Ultra, I'm running pretty much any PS2 game I want. The only one I haven't been able to get running with AetherSX2 is Armored Core 3
What a cool project to do!
23:45 windows bsod ahh on linux moment
Great work! Love the design.
24:08 to be fair, neither windows or macos would even be able to *run* a setup like this, and even if they did, getting this kind of performance out of it would be even harder to do, if not also impossible. Linux is harder to use most often in these situations because it lets you do things that are harder to do.
> neither windows or macos would even be able to run a setup like this [...] getting this kind of performance out of it would be even harder to do
lol what
@@adamsfusion I am not saying you cannot run emulators on windows. I am saying running windows on the pi, and then overclocking the pi from within windows would be much more difficult while yeilding worse performance than using linux for the same job.
That grill looks slick # TeamChamfer The whole thing looks great, fits right in with your aesthetic
"A wild Nintendo lawyer suddenly appears...."
I am happy to see that his Raspberry Pi did not get damaged after trying the most extreme settings. He was willing to overclock to destruction, but it still runs.
Great video as always! Would love to see how much the overall performance would improve if the SD card was replaced and the Pi booted off/used an M.2 drive via the PCIe interface.
Keep up the great work.👍
Your skills are so impressive 👏
Instead of trying to turn a raspberry pi into something it was never meant to be, you'd be better much further ahead if you had just used a more powerful system to start with.
That was my precise thought. Why not just by a NUC that's like 3 generations older for cheap? I'd assume it'd orders of magnitude more powerful. Maybe I'm missing something
Well it is a test lot's of thing could be different and he could use different but you know , let's learn together i am mechanical engineer student and i know increasing the copper heat sink width might make it worst and it is better to use past, but no body is perfect just enjoy a good man do a test ❤
you could probably buy a mini pc and gut it to do this without this many modifications and it will still come out cheaper. amazing content and very insightful regardless!
"because of this low quality thermal plaste" lol, wtf?
*a few minutes later in the video, realizes he's selling "pro" thermal paste*... "oh, that's why..."
K5 Pro is pretty common with overclockers
K5 is almost certainly better then any thermal paste you've ever held or used.
@@roydraper616 yeah but how many people need it
This is awesome! I love seeing geeky stuff like this
80 views. this new guy here seems decent. let me watch this upcoming maker.
I can’t tell if this is satire or not (not in a mean way) if so, lol, if not, he’s pretty good, just don’t watch his speaker videos
he dose some really cool projects defiantly a fav of mine with the way he mixes my love for tech and diy always watching videos when he uploads
Batocera strikes again!! Glad you found it!
Did you know you can double tap this comment to like it? You can double tap it again to unlike because this is a lazy comment
Damn I messed up, I can't unlike it.
@@TehBIGrat HAHA GOTCHA :D
@@froggotheboiyou can just click the unlike button
LIAR!!!
@@dilbertdoodaw3884 you FOOL!!!!
I jumped the Pi/Retropie ship this month. I know you used Batocera which is also good. I have been using Pi's since the early 2's for emulation and keep buying new ones all the time. I refrained from the 5 as I would be about $500 total into Pi's.
So what does one do? Well, FPGA! As we speak I am building my MiSTer and getting ready to rock. Retropie/Batocera are awesome and so is the PI, but it just takes so much time to configure everything. And, emulation is great, but hardware recreation is even better!
Still, great vid as usual!
11 views in 16 seconds smh Zac builds fell off 😢
Your annoying
I wish I could learn from this guy.
I love these builds- I’d love to see one with an engraved metal faceplate instead of the wood!
I know it's not for me but really fun to follow! Terrific job!!
great work Zac!
Congratulations, with all this work. You've made the Raspberry Pi slightly less powerful than the Steam Deck! 😜 This is a very interesting project! I'm interested to see what can be done with it through optimization in the future.
My new favorite channel!
The videos and ideas are great. I respect what Zac does so much
Zac, these videos are awesome man! Keep it up!
Great video - cool to see your process.
I've been using Linux since it was released during my freshman year of my computer engineering undergrad degree, and have been a Pi enthusiast for years. Same with 3D printing and electronics.
I might have been inspired to try this myself, actually! Thanks!
Btw as someone who uses PACF a lot, check that part in a months time. Will be as straight as banana. Heat resistant does not mean holds shape with a constant force over time unfortunately :(
that BSOD on Ubuntu looks deceptively convincing
instead of support interface, try using water-soluble filament to go between, it dissolves in water and leaves a beautiful finish with no risk of breaking the print while removing supports
Didn't the sanding remove the height difference required for the RAM chip?
Another great video!
9:38 im guessing delta instead of delte
Your videos been very inspiring and creative. Hope you would also do a Wii “PRO”. Thanks for your hardwork👍
Isn't the pi 3d model available?
5:52 It’s not as flat as a factory heat sink though. I guess that doesn’t matter if you’re appropriately applying thermal paste, but machining a surface flat with outperform whatever sanding you’re doing
Could you have used thermal tape to bridge the gap between the cooling block and chips?
Zac builds: Modernizes the Dreamcast, along with other old consoles
Also Zac builds: *Uses a Raspberry Pi to make them obsolete again*
you can get a nice performance bump with a 15-25mm spacer between the rad and the fan... you could use 3d printing... free upgrade?
Even though your robot vaccuum is pretty sweet (and makes me jealous) I would personally ass a dust filter to stave your pi off from eventual crud buildup. Love the vid! I want to do something similar for my home pir server! Just have to buy a pi 5 first...
you are going to have deposits forming if you keep aluminum and copper together in your cooling loop
Will you make a custom itx pc?
We've got a eufy, best vacuum we've ever had
This is so much better than the time I accidentally listened to the green suiters!
I’m running an HP G4 800 mini without the water cooling, and 1/3 the space. And getting better results.
Do it! dry ice alcohol submerged conformal coated pi with remote I/O.. Bigger wires are better especially for power supply.
This is DAMN COOL, and the kind of tech videos I WANT to click on.
9:37 Notice the typo, Win a Prize ??
🗣️🗣️🗣️ We have Water cooled Raspberry Pi before GTA 6
Your pi isn't over clocked anymore boss
What is the blue pad your working on
Hi, I don't know much about home watercooling, so not on the head (nor the balls ;-p), but instead of blowing the tank and the RPi5 with hot air, why not reverse the air flow and use a micro-converter-raiser from 5 Vcc to 12 Vcc for the fan ?
Have you tried to submerge it in liquid to cool it? As testing!
considering a lot of engineering youtubers feel absolutely clueless and just lie lol, I was pleasantly surprised to see your video actually being quite informative
Oh god lol your attempt at integrating the sponsor into the video lol😂. Still better than i could do.
Great job!
running geekbench with a bare die is, in light words, not the brightest idea.
Some parts of the chip don't have temp sensors, meaning you could have EASILY fried your pi.