Someone already mentioned this but it needs repeating. The moment you wiped the Raspian OS, all your overclocking was removed. Remember, you were setting your overclock in config files in the OS. You were running Batocera at stock speeds. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it has the same configuration files as Raspian OS since it is based on it.
How ever the issue that retropie is in though is it has no full rpi 5 image. you have to get the rpios and build from that and then deal with the headaches of emulations being out of date. there's been a lot of forums on rpi5 support in it's website but so far it's a lot of build it yourself and not many emulators built to run rpi5 in 64bit. mostly a lot of 3rd party repo adding. using batocera at least gives you fully updated emulators that work with 64bit. (note this is based off of what info i found in retro pie forums since 2023. I'm unwilling to buy and run a rpi5 due to limited support and recently fixed gpu support. not worth it for a rpi4 with large emulator support in 32bit.
For any DIYers 17:15 - pantyhose works really well at still allowing decent airflow while providing 10x the dust collection of wire mesh. That way you don’t have a dust sieve that leaves finer dust in your enclosure.
For anyone who wants to use a stock pi5.... the temps are fine. His testing was a little disengenious. The stock ihs helps quite a bit as opposed to the die just being expoosed to air. Thermal pads are also much easier to use to fill gaps.
And if you want to be lazy there's also thermal gel or puddy, which don't run. If you don't want to guess the pad thickness. You see it as that bubble gum colored stuff on many GPU's. Some types also act as thermal adhesive to avoid mounting mechanisms. Furthermore, he didn't need to use exotic filament like CF-Nylon as ABS (like most PC components) are already made of for a reason. But yeah, the guy is building a bike and ended up with a jet engine powered pedal assist with gyroscopes to help balance the bike. Still only a 3 speed and Walmart tires. Even with the 1.1v 3.1GHz OC I'm sure the water loop didn't even need to have the pump running... At this point I feel like Moleman from the Simpsons, I want my 5 minutes of my life back
@MrHeHim I'm a firm believer in doing something just because I can, but I never pass it off as something that is needed. To his credit he did mention that it isnt necessary, but that was at the end of the video already. The custom case and everything was cool. I just don't like the attitude of "you have to this to get the most out of it" you really don't.
But does the IHS help mostly by adding extra thermal mass, meaning it’ll still reach similar temps but it’ll just take longer, or does it really help dissipate the heat. Because I’m not sure that a basically flat piece of metal like an IHS really radiates much heat so I would assume that it mainly provides some extra thermal mass rather than extra dissipation. But I could be wrong. And of course you can always stick a small heatsink on the IHS which will help dissipate the heat, even more so if you pair it with a fan as is commonly included in good Pi case kits, but you’re still limited by the size, and fins density, of the heatsinks you can physically mount on a Pi as well as the size of the fans (and the air volume they can move). I know from experience they provide enough cooling for most uses, even without a fan you can already get pretty okay performance (and the Pi shouldn’t fry itself since it has temperature limits), but there is little doubt in my mind that you can extract more performance and even some overlocking headroom with a better cooling capacity. Whether you need it or not is another question but if you truly want to get the most performance physically possible then you probably should look beyond the typical small heatsink and fan combo most people use with commonly available Pi cases. Although even then you probably don’t need to break out the small PC sized watercooling setup (though if you’re gonna go through the trouble of watercooling then why not) and you most likely don’t need to custom build a CPU block lol
@aurelienlux oh your absolutely right, to get more performance you will mostly likely need better cooling. I didn't do a good job of articulating my point. I apologize. What I was trying to say was, if you just want to emulate retro games, the stock ihs is fine. And I think you are correct that the ihs just adds more thermal mass as opposed to actually cooling it. A heatsink would do both.
He got a pretty meaningless result, I'm sure using the standard active cooling solution would have given him low enough temperatures to do whatever he needed (and been way cheaper/easier).
The problem was that the button was a lot higher thank CPU, and you would not want to put thermal pad on CPU if you removed ihs for thermals in the first place
Distilled water is actually the best liquid for heat transfer, with no additives at all. The coolant that is sold in pre-mix solutions has glycol, anti-biotic and anti-corrosive agents mixed in to prevent freezing and blockage. All of these additives *reduce* the effectiveness of heat transfer. Since this Pi (and most PCs) is not going to be in freezing temps, the glycol is useless. Anti-corrosion additives are not needed if all metals in the loop are the same (a lot of loops are a combination of aluminum and copper, but it is common to get fully copper watercooling loops). Anti-bio additives are the only thing that are necessary in most loops, unless you want to swap out the liquid and completely clean the loop every few months. You can buy small bottles of anti-bio additive for this purpose.
@@stevencoad9224 When I built my loop, I went through a few pre-mix brands over a couple months, I finally just bought some biocide. I dumped the small bottle of biocide into a gallon of distilled water and I have not had any debris in the loop for around 6 months now. Glycol is the worst thing for a loop, and I genuinely believe the only reason they use it in pre-mix solutions is to sell the cleaner that you need to get all of the glycol stickiness/smell out of the loop.
For people not liking the liquid biocides; there's also high-purity silver coils sold for biocidal purposes. For the love of yourself, don't run any system entirely without it for periods over half a year. Once had a bit of runaway when the loop looked just fine about 5-6months in, and was a full-on disaster to clean (mainly the innards of the blocks) around 11mo. in Probably means a contaminant was already either in the liquid or water, though after adding the silver coil it never got that bad, i usually flushed the loop every 6 to 12 mo. without issue since.
A number of things to note here. A. It’s pronounced like “bottosarah” or, more phonetically “baw-toe-sarah”. B. Your overclock only was active on the pi install. When you installed Batocera, that wiped the overclock. It’s a software overclock, and not a persistent hardware overclock. C. Thermal pads would have been a better choice for thermals transfer. D. As another has said, your 84 degree temp was rather disingenuous as you had the IHS removed. That little plate actually wicks away a decent amount of heat. D. You should have installed some kapton tape on the cpu where where there wasn’t direct die contact. There’s a number of onboard caps and resistors that are almost the same height of the cpu die. Your heatsink plate doesn’t stop from over tightening so you have a very high chance of shorting out the cpu since you removed the IHS.
I am glad someone else noticed the overclocked issue. As far as I know Batocera does not allow you to provide software level overclocking. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it relies on the same files to provide a software overclock.
As an engineer that's worked with a lot of copper block water cooling systems in the metals industry, just resting the block on top of the unmodified CPU (with cover) and adding a little thermal paste on between the two, would have given sufficient heat transfer.
Every time I see a video of water cooling I always get reminded of a specific video. And it's what makes me want to make a loop, just to fill my PC with vodka.
@@Jo_HGSmix vodka 1:1 w alcohol n test conductivity. U get 60% vodka, which I heard is used as cooling liquid. BTW possibly alcohol will destroy glued connections.
Just a forewarning, I would recommend you don’t show Nintendo games when you demonstrating emulators. Nintendo has been on a war path recently and hit Retro Game Corps with two copyright strikes. I don’t want to see any other content creators be affected by the Nintendo’s blatant abuse of the copyright system.
It's not that big of a deal tbf. People will choose the option that costs less and does more for them. Maybe that's something Nintendo could emulate for a change.
There are 3rd party boards available that plug into the side of the Pi5 and move the USB-C & HDMI ports to the back. They also make the HDMI ports full-sized.
Potential upgrade idea for a Mk.II-- install a M.2 NVme Pi Hat (be sure to change the settings from PCIe Gen2 to Gen3.) on the Pi5 using the ePCIe connection.
Why not use an old XP or Win7 computer instead? It's pretty easy to find a small micro-atx box for less than 50$ or maybe even for free. It's not hard to find one that is more powerful than a Pi5, even if you underclock it enough to stay silent... You'll be about to install any Linux distribution you want with plenty of choice for your retro gaming software. You don't need to do any 3D printing or water cooling, etc... Just a quick clean up if it's dusty and it's good to go.
A few years ago, I got curious after watching those fishtank PC builds, so I took my RPi4 and modified a plastic tub, got 2 small fans, filled the tub up with non-conductive liquid, hooked up the fans, with them side by side, one push the other pull. Surprisngly, it worked just fine, one day I will do it again, but next time, a custom case. :P
you can get 5V fans and a 5V pump (the kind found in pet waterbowls) they usually have 3Meters of head pressure / 2Liters per minute. it would be more of a closed with a T for a fill port, but it would greatly simply the design and just power everything from the pi header. As shown here, you can use cheap pla (I would prefer PETG) because if the copper plate gets up to 50C, you're doing something wrong
If you don't search for hype on topic "water cooling RPI5", and really search for something that you said about retro emulation beast I know some variants. 1st one is Radxa x4, it's if you want/need RPI size. But I'd rather go and buy ASRock X600, took mini STX board of it and use regular AM5 water block it top of Ryzen 8700g. You steel will need to create custom case for all of that, and all that will be in similar volume case to your RPI5. But overall performance will be "a little" more that RPI5 😊
Was thinking just that. I mean, if i look at the Mac Mini across the room, if i don't care about price, Apple has that covered off the box. If I'm price conscious, there's no end of x86 NUC's that will "outsize and outperform" this "frankenstein". The Radxa x4 i don't think fits. It's more of a kludge to have a Pi's "hats" on x86 than anything. Personally, think just having a Pi-Zero inside the NUC connected to the internal USB and exposing the GPIO as an external header like the Pi-400 does is a lot more sane, if less cheap...
I'd personally shave the cooling fins off the official cooling heatsink, cut out the right shape, and then solder the water block into the hole. It would also allow for removal of the block.
@@HouglumFamily sometime internet archive has some. Just really look up a specific games roms. (Just avoid the one called Roms R Fun or something like that.)
The biggest problem with Raspberry Pi right now is once you've bought the cooler and shell, you could have spent nearly the same amount of money and got a 3.5ghz x86 Intel powered Beelink S12 (which still ships with Windows).
you could probably buy a mini pc and gut it to do this without this many modifications and it will still come out cheaper. amazing content and very insightful regardless!
11:26 Please stop using Silicone in place of Silicon. Silicone is a crosslinked polymer of polydimethylsiloxane. Silicon is element 14 on the periodic table. The Polydimethylsiloxane molecule is 1 atom of Silicon, 1 atom of Oxygen, 2 atoms of Carbon and 6 atoms of Hydrogen. Semiconductors are made from crystals of Pure Silicon that is then doped with small amounts of metallic ions like Boron, Phosphorus, Arsenic, Antimony ect. These Ions interact with the valence electron layer of the silicon creating either a positive or negative state. I don't want to be rude, I just want people who fall into the Scientific/Educational side of the internet to communicate correct information to the young engineers and scientists of the future. We all make mistakes, what's important is we try to learn from them.
9:38 Typo: over_voltage_delkt=25000. The funny thing is that I actually noticed the typo before reading your little message. I was thinking, something doesn't look right here. I must say, I appreciate the fact that you keep your bloopers in the final cut. It keeps things light and entertaining.
I jumped the Pi/Retropie ship this month. I know you used Batocera which is also good. I have been using Pi's since the early 2's for emulation and keep buying new ones all the time. I refrained from the 5 as I would be about $500 total into Pi's. So what does one do? Well, FPGA! As we speak I am building my MiSTer and getting ready to rock. Retropie/Batocera are awesome and so is the PI, but it just takes so much time to configure everything. And, emulation is great, but hardware recreation is even better! Still, great vid as usual!
Great video - cool to see your process. I've been using Linux since it was released during my freshman year of my computer engineering undergrad degree, and have been a Pi enthusiast for years. Same with 3D printing and electronics. I might have been inspired to try this myself, actually! Thanks!
instead of support interface, try using water-soluble filament to go between, it dissolves in water and leaves a beautiful finish with no risk of breaking the print while removing supports
Using flatpak, you can launch whatever on batocera, although you do need some tweaking to make certain files save (like downloads in Firefox) I personally have a web browser, modrinth, and steam.
Really bummed that the post-mortem was cut. I can definitely understand your reasoning, but is there any way you could include the key points in the description?
Video idea to follow on this one - do another case, possibly the same dimensions as the one in the video, that interfaces / sits below the Pi-console. This box could house another PI, or an extension to the PI above, and could house an additional fan, plus storage / other hardware so you could expand the features of the whole system. The two 'boxes' could then be either one system or two and be customized to be anything you would want. Like an emulator + NAS storage, or router + NAS, or whatever anyone could think of :D.
running geekbench with a bare die is, in light words, not the brightest idea. Some parts of the chip don't have temp sensors, meaning you could have EASILY fried your pi.
This might sound a bit strange, but I think older games look better at low resolutions. I feel like they kinda hide imperfections from the hardware of the era. Great build tho. I love how you add such flair to these projects, and make them feel more than just an emulation machine.
Btw as someone who uses PACF a lot, check that part in a months time. Will be as straight as banana. Heat resistant does not mean holds shape with a constant force over time unfortunately :(
Just a guy who likes to tinker! Spent most of my life working as a contractor and studied economics in school. Most of my knowledge comes from either trial and error or following in the foot steps of those much smarter than me.
You mentioned that the Pi runs on 5 watts, but the Pi 5 can draw up to 27 watts (which is why they provide a 27W Pi 5 specific adapter). I'm curious if you were using this?
I'd just use the PLA hold down as a pattern to drill a few holes in some aluminum, use some stiff springs as a thermal expansion compensation under the screw heads and good to go.
I've always wanted to do some crazy insane cooling. Like desolder every single I/O piece, solder extensions for critical I/O like the power, USB, ethernet, and video, then coat it in liquid electrical tape or conformal coating. Then dunk it in dry ice cooled isopropyl alcohol! At that point the PCB is naturally going to cool the CPU from below by its thermal mass alone. I don't think there's a better way to cool a raspberry pi!
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this. But I'd strongly advise against using K5 Pro. I ran it in a gaming laptop and after 6 months of use, I noticed massive temp increases on my VRAM. When I opened up the system, I noticed massive pitting and bubbling in the K5 Pro accross all memory modules. The K5 Pro had literally boiled, seperated, then congealed. It left pock marks accross all of the laptops VRAM modules that wouldn't come off with 99% IPA. Upsiren UTP-8 thermal putty is a much better, and cheaper, alternative to K5 Pro. I had a significate reduction in temps on VRAM after using UTP-8, compared to K5 Pro. There are many other people, way smarter than me, that have done extensive testing with both putties. UTP-8 comes out ahead in every test.
Zac i have a challenge for you.... Zintendo 3ds/2ds XxL. Use switch sized screens for displays. Hinge or no hinge. Built in grip. Better battery. Better storage. Better speakera. Micro Hdmi out. Headphone jack. i just thought about this in my "trying not to fall asleep" tired mode.
considering a lot of engineering youtubers feel absolutely clueless and just lie lol, I was pleasantly surprised to see your video actually being quite informative
I made a retro gaming system with Raspberry Pi 3 and RetroPie software. But it couldn't run N64 at all. Good to know the 5 can. I so wish I had a 3D printer. I bought a generic electronics hobby box and cut slots in it manually with a Dremel and exacto knife. To power it, I discovered PicoPSU and found a tutorial on installing a powered pushbutton. I have been thinking of making a new one so I no longer have to break out my N64 to play those games and can easily have it all in one place. I was thinking I might also get the M.2 HAT+ addon to use an M.2 SSD.
I mean you could have just taken a board with an 5105 or even just an N100 for cheaper and fully complete with cooling. The Pi5 is wayy to overpriced for the hardware, The Raspberry Makers are out of their minds. You can buy a full mini PC for the same price with less hardware issues and better CPUs with more build-in features.
I remember like 10 years ago when the pi was about education, they'd bring Pis to my school to teach us students about coding and programming. With the steamdeck pushing emudeck it has made emulating much easier now. Even a cheap phone is a better option now for emulation but pi videos still do well it seems
100% An Intel/AMD box running Windows or Linux will be less expensive (and more expandable) than a Pi 5. Since the Pi 4, this has been the case. I've purchased old thin-client Thinkcentre's from Ebay for like $50 that far outperform the Pi 5.
Came for this kind of comment. Boggles my mind that someone is willing to put in the time/money to achieve like 30% of the performance of a recent-ish cheap mini PC for like 4 times as much money.
Great video as always! Would love to see how much the overall performance would improve if the SD card was replaced and the Pi booted off/used an M.2 drive via the PCIe interface. Keep up the great work.👍
Nice project, although I would have used an integrated Pump/block/reservoir so I could get a smaller footprint, also the 120MM rad might be a bit overkill there are some 92 rads fit it with a 92mm noctua and bang, would be nice to see you getting this project as small as possible without losing the performance, I feel like you have a loooot of thermal headroom with that configuration.
18:14 I noticed some Z axis artifacts. Make sure your Z axis grub nut is very above torque spec for that kind of fastener. If you have a Z axis screw put the grub nut in the shallow part of the thread. Grubs have rounded heads and naturally feel tight while having slip specs lower than torque would indicate. I think a problem with modern 3d printer design is the tiny surface area of coupler grub nuts lets high torque small movements slip on the metal surface. You get acceptable performance but have these visual imperfections caused by z axis lifts that don't complete. It really really needs to be very tight for the most consistent Z axis layering. Z axis moves the least with the highest torque impulses, moving the whole print gantry.
![ARGENTINA vs. PERÚ [1-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xtI25ENDDSY/mqdefault.jpg)
Someone already mentioned this but it needs repeating. The moment you wiped the Raspian OS, all your overclocking was removed. Remember, you were setting your overclock in config files in the OS. You were running Batocera at stock speeds. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it has the same configuration files as Raspian OS since it is based on it.
How ever the issue that retropie is in though is it has no full rpi 5 image. you have to get the rpios and build from that and then deal with the headaches of emulations being out of date. there's been a lot of forums on rpi5 support in it's website but so far it's a lot of build it yourself and not many emulators built to run rpi5 in 64bit. mostly a lot of 3rd party repo adding. using batocera at least gives you fully updated emulators that work with 64bit. (note this is based off of what info i found in retro pie forums since 2023. I'm unwilling to buy and run a rpi5 due to limited support and recently fixed gpu support. not worth it for a rpi4 with large emulator support in 32bit.
PopOS also has a new version for raspberry pi i saw when looking around .
Remove or blur Nintendo games from the video. They are in witch hunt mode right now
Came down here to second this. Retro Game Corps got TWO strikes for daring to show Nintendo games being emulated. Watch out, man.
*yuzu memories intensify* Nintendo really takes emulation serious. Like @joep1984 said, watch out.
Yep. Please, brother, don’t give them an excuse. They are out for blood right now.
RIP ryujinx, yuzu, and citra
@@ThylineTheGay i still have yuzu
For any DIYers 17:15 - pantyhose works really well at still allowing decent airflow while providing 10x the dust collection of wire mesh. That way you don’t have a dust sieve that leaves finer dust in your enclosure.
Hmmm... 😏
@@aeaeaeaeoaeaeaeaeae💀
Instructions unclear, d*** stuck in pantyhose contraption.
I actually saw a PC build sponsored by a pantyhose company for these reasons lol
Wait! This is actually pretty smart, you can even make it more or less dense of a filter depending on how much you stretch it.
For anyone who wants to use a stock pi5.... the temps are fine. His testing was a little disengenious. The stock ihs helps quite a bit as opposed to the die just being expoosed to air. Thermal pads are also much easier to use to fill gaps.
And if you want to be lazy there's also thermal gel or puddy, which don't run. If you don't want to guess the pad thickness. You see it as that bubble gum colored stuff on many GPU's. Some types also act as thermal adhesive to avoid mounting mechanisms.
Furthermore, he didn't need to use exotic filament like CF-Nylon as ABS (like most PC components) are already made of for a reason.
But yeah, the guy is building a bike and ended up with a jet engine powered pedal assist with gyroscopes to help balance the bike. Still only a 3 speed and Walmart tires.
Even with the 1.1v 3.1GHz OC I'm sure the water loop didn't even need to have the pump running... At this point I feel like Moleman from the Simpsons, I want my 5 minutes of my life back
@MrHeHim I'm a firm believer in doing something just because I can, but I never pass it off as something that is needed. To his credit he did mention that it isnt necessary, but that was at the end of the video already. The custom case and everything was cool. I just don't like the attitude of "you have to this to get the most out of it" you really don't.
But does the IHS help mostly by adding extra thermal mass, meaning it’ll still reach similar temps but it’ll just take longer, or does it really help dissipate the heat. Because I’m not sure that a basically flat piece of metal like an IHS really radiates much heat so I would assume that it mainly provides some extra thermal mass rather than extra dissipation. But I could be wrong.
And of course you can always stick a small heatsink on the IHS which will help dissipate the heat, even more so if you pair it with a fan as is commonly included in good Pi case kits, but you’re still limited by the size, and fins density, of the heatsinks you can physically mount on a Pi as well as the size of the fans (and the air volume they can move). I know from experience they provide enough cooling for most uses, even without a fan you can already get pretty okay performance (and the Pi shouldn’t fry itself since it has temperature limits), but there is little doubt in my mind that you can extract more performance and even some overlocking headroom with a better cooling capacity.
Whether you need it or not is another question but if you truly want to get the most performance physically possible then you probably should look beyond the typical small heatsink and fan combo most people use with commonly available Pi cases. Although even then you probably don’t need to break out the small PC sized watercooling setup (though if you’re gonna go through the trouble of watercooling then why not) and you most likely don’t need to custom build a CPU block lol
@aurelienlux oh your absolutely right, to get more performance you will mostly likely need better cooling. I didn't do a good job of articulating my point. I apologize. What I was trying to say was, if you just want to emulate retro games, the stock ihs is fine. And I think you are correct that the ihs just adds more thermal mass as opposed to actually cooling it. A heatsink would do both.
a big block and some heat pipes is the way i would go
Doing the 'stock' thermal testing with the IHS off was... a choice.
Yeah totally a big brain move , just like his "best handheld modded to be even better"
He got a pretty meaningless result, I'm sure using the standard active cooling solution would have given him low enough temperatures to do whatever he needed (and been way cheaper/easier).
This will probably sound like "back seat driving", but a thermal pad would have solved a lot of the issues you came across :)
...but.... he has to sell that "pro" thermal paste...
The problem was that the button was a lot higher thank CPU, and you would not want to put thermal pad on CPU if you removed ihs for thermals in the first place
A lot of this to me felt like a typical case of overengineering. Nevertheless, it's fun to see people go the extra mile.
@@unstablenl agreed
RUclips is cool because people who post advice (good or bad) are engaging with the content and giving ideas. good ideas or bad ideas!
11:03 heh, hello there!
pi man! :D
i was going to comment about you doing overclocking the pi
hi jeff
General Kenobi!
Of all the coincidences in the world....
Distilled water is actually the best liquid for heat transfer, with no additives at all. The coolant that is sold in pre-mix solutions has glycol, anti-biotic and anti-corrosive agents mixed in to prevent freezing and blockage. All of these additives *reduce* the effectiveness of heat transfer.
Since this Pi (and most PCs) is not going to be in freezing temps, the glycol is useless. Anti-corrosion additives are not needed if all metals in the loop are the same (a lot of loops are a combination of aluminum and copper, but it is common to get fully copper watercooling loops). Anti-bio additives are the only thing that are necessary in most loops, unless you want to swap out the liquid and completely clean the loop every few months. You can buy small bottles of anti-bio additive for this purpose.
Came here to say this, I run just distilled in my loop (cpu/gpu/2rads), I change it about every 9-12 months and have never had any issues.
@@stevencoad9224 When I built my loop, I went through a few pre-mix brands over a couple months, I finally just bought some biocide. I dumped the small bottle of biocide into a gallon of distilled water and I have not had any debris in the loop for around 6 months now. Glycol is the worst thing for a loop, and I genuinely believe the only reason they use it in pre-mix solutions is to sell the cleaner that you need to get all of the glycol stickiness/smell out of the loop.
I came here to say this man, thank you
For people not liking the liquid biocides; there's also high-purity silver coils sold for biocidal purposes.
For the love of yourself, don't run any system entirely without it for periods over half a year.
Once had a bit of runaway when the loop looked just fine about 5-6months in, and was a full-on disaster to clean (mainly the innards of the blocks) around 11mo. in
Probably means a contaminant was already either in the liquid or water, though after adding the silver coil it never got that bad, i usually flushed the loop every 6 to 12 mo. without issue since.
@@tz496 Would adding a silver coin in the water reservoir work?
A number of things to note here.
A. It’s pronounced like “bottosarah” or, more phonetically “baw-toe-sarah”.
B. Your overclock only was active on the pi install. When you installed Batocera, that wiped the overclock. It’s a software overclock, and not a persistent hardware overclock.
C. Thermal pads would have been a better choice for thermals transfer.
D. As another has said, your 84 degree temp was rather disingenuous as you had the IHS removed. That little plate actually wicks away a decent amount of heat.
D. You should have installed some kapton tape on the cpu where where there wasn’t direct die contact. There’s a number of onboard caps and resistors that are almost the same height of the cpu die. Your heatsink plate doesn’t stop from over tightening so you have a very high chance of shorting out the cpu since you removed the IHS.
Yes, he is not a very intelligent person typical over privileged American
I am glad someone else noticed the overclocked issue. As far as I know Batocera does not allow you to provide software level overclocking. RetroPi would have been a better option as, I believe, it relies on the same files to provide a software overclock.
"Brazing" vs "soldering" another nitpick of mine
Bruh, this was a Eufy vacuum ad
@@thewolfinDid he not do brazing? I thought that was essentially what brazing was, joining copper together with solder and a torch.
As an engineer that's worked with a lot of copper block water cooling systems in the metals industry, just resting the block on top of the unmodified CPU (with cover) and adding a little thermal paste on between the two, would have given sufficient heat transfer.
And modern thermal tapes are also efficient enough to avoid creating a bracket for this situation.
I am sure your initial temperature would have been much more reasonable if u still had the stock ihs on, 88c at idle is ridiculous
"This IHS is garbage"
"I'll make a worse one!"
Every time I see a video of water cooling I always get reminded of a specific video. And it's what makes me want to make a loop, just to fill my PC with vodka.
Boris' vodka cooled pc is a legendary video
@@Jo_HGSmix vodka 1:1 w alcohol n test conductivity. U get 60% vodka, which I heard is used as cooling liquid. BTW possibly alcohol will destroy glued connections.
Don't forget the mayonnaise thermal paste.
Just a forewarning, I would recommend you don’t show Nintendo games when you demonstrating emulators. Nintendo has been on a war path recently and hit Retro Game Corps with two copyright strikes. I don’t want to see any other content creators be affected by the Nintendo’s blatant abuse of the copyright system.
It's not that big of a deal tbf. People will choose the option that costs less and does more for them. Maybe that's something Nintendo could emulate for a change.
There are 3rd party boards available that plug into the side of the Pi5 and move the USB-C & HDMI ports to the back. They also make the HDMI ports full-sized.
Potential upgrade idea for a Mk.II-- install a M.2 NVme Pi Hat (be sure to change the settings from PCIe Gen2 to Gen3.) on the Pi5 using the ePCIe connection.
Why not use an old XP or Win7 computer instead? It's pretty easy to find a small micro-atx box for less than 50$ or maybe even for free. It's not hard to find one that is more powerful than a Pi5, even if you underclock it enough to stay silent... You'll be about to install any Linux distribution you want with plenty of choice for your retro gaming software. You don't need to do any 3D printing or water cooling, etc... Just a quick clean up if it's dusty and it's good to go.
A few years ago, I got curious after watching those fishtank PC builds, so I took my RPi4 and modified a plastic tub, got 2 small fans, filled the tub up with non-conductive liquid, hooked up the fans, with them side by side, one push the other pull.
Surprisngly, it worked just fine, one day I will do it again, but next time, a custom case. :P
you can get 5V fans and a 5V pump (the kind found in pet waterbowls) they usually have 3Meters of head pressure / 2Liters per minute. it would be more of a closed with a T for a fill port, but it would greatly simply the design and just power everything from the pi header.
As shown here, you can use cheap pla (I would prefer PETG) because if the copper plate gets up to 50C, you're doing something wrong
If you don't search for hype on topic "water cooling RPI5", and really search for something that you said about retro emulation beast I know some variants. 1st one is Radxa x4, it's if you want/need RPI size. But I'd rather go and buy ASRock X600, took mini STX board of it and use regular AM5 water block it top of Ryzen 8700g. You steel will need to create custom case for all of that, and all that will be in similar volume case to your RPI5. But overall performance will be "a little" more that RPI5 😊
Was thinking just that. I mean, if i look at the Mac Mini across the room, if i don't care about price, Apple has that covered off the box. If I'm price conscious, there's no end of x86 NUC's that will "outsize and outperform" this "frankenstein". The Radxa x4 i don't think fits. It's more of a kludge to have a Pi's "hats" on x86 than anything. Personally, think just having a Pi-Zero inside the NUC connected to the internal USB and exposing the GPIO as an external header like the Pi-400 does is a lot more sane, if less cheap...
me screaming, USE THERMAL PADS AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd personally shave the cooling fins off the official cooling heatsink, cut out the right shape, and then solder the water block into the hole. It would also allow for removal of the block.
you can boost the raspberry pi by
putting an nvme drive on as well
Remember kids, Its not stealing if its stealing from a big company. Especially if its a bigg company that got rid of their own emulation services.
What is backwards compatibility? Can i eat that?
If buying isn’t owning, piracy isn’t stealing.
Where do you find the ROMs?
@@HouglumFamily sometime internet archive has some. Just really look up a specific games roms. (Just avoid the one called Roms R Fun or something like that.)
Do you have discord ? I can't tell you there
The biggest problem with Raspberry Pi right now is once you've bought the cooler and shell, you could have spent nearly the same amount of money and got a 3.5ghz x86 Intel powered Beelink S12 (which still ships with Windows).
It's worth going the Pi route because it doesn't come with windows.
I love these kinds of builds! Water cooling is my jam though lol. Anything ridiculous or overkill is so entertaining to me.
You could've just used PTM9750... wtf? 4:30
Fr
Lol, as soon as I saw that no name Amazon fan, I knew it was gonna get replaced with a Noctua
"A wild Nintendo lawyer suddenly appears...."
Who you are today, Zac, is who I aspire to be once I retire and have time to enjoy such projects! 🍻
@examen1996cus work
@@SDRIFTERAbdlmounaimHasn't stopped Zac
@@Mooskislide different ppl, different situations
@@SDRIFTERAbdlmounaim as someone who works 50-60 hours a week I agree.
@@SvRider512 good luck mate, hope you can still manage to have few fun activities to balance it out !
That grill looks slick # TeamChamfer The whole thing looks great, fits right in with your aesthetic
you could probably buy a mini pc and gut it to do this without this many modifications and it will still come out cheaper. amazing content and very insightful regardless!
11:26 Please stop using Silicone in place of Silicon. Silicone is a crosslinked polymer of polydimethylsiloxane. Silicon is element 14 on the periodic table. The Polydimethylsiloxane molecule is 1 atom of Silicon, 1 atom of Oxygen, 2 atoms of Carbon and 6 atoms of Hydrogen. Semiconductors are made from crystals of Pure Silicon that is then doped with small amounts of metallic ions like Boron, Phosphorus, Arsenic, Antimony ect. These Ions interact with the valence electron layer of the silicon creating either a positive or negative state. I don't want to be rude, I just want people who fall into the Scientific/Educational side of the internet to communicate correct information to the young engineers and scientists of the future. We all make mistakes, what's important is we try to learn from them.
Yeah he also said "Hoose" instead of House
You have to be the funniest guy at parties
So which one is right?
9:38 Typo: over_voltage_delkt=25000. The funny thing is that I actually noticed the typo before reading your little message. I was thinking, something doesn't look right here. I must say, I appreciate the fact that you keep your bloopers in the final cut. It keeps things light and entertaining.
I jumped the Pi/Retropie ship this month. I know you used Batocera which is also good. I have been using Pi's since the early 2's for emulation and keep buying new ones all the time. I refrained from the 5 as I would be about $500 total into Pi's.
So what does one do? Well, FPGA! As we speak I am building my MiSTer and getting ready to rock. Retropie/Batocera are awesome and so is the PI, but it just takes so much time to configure everything. And, emulation is great, but hardware recreation is even better!
Still, great vid as usual!
Great work! Love the design.
What a cool project to do!
I love these builds- I’d love to see one with an engraved metal faceplate instead of the wood!
Great video - cool to see your process.
I've been using Linux since it was released during my freshman year of my computer engineering undergrad degree, and have been a Pi enthusiast for years. Same with 3D printing and electronics.
I might have been inspired to try this myself, actually! Thanks!
The videos and ideas are great. I respect what Zac does so much
This is awesome! I love seeing geeky stuff like this
YOU DID IT ZACKAERY!!! GODD JOB
instead of support interface, try using water-soluble filament to go between, it dissolves in water and leaves a beautiful finish with no risk of breaking the print while removing supports
🗣️🗣️🗣️ We have Water cooled Raspberry Pi before GTA 6
that BSOD on Ubuntu looks deceptively convincing
Your skills are so impressive 👏
I know it's not for me but really fun to follow! Terrific job!!
Batocera strikes again!! Glad you found it!
I wish I could learn from this guy.
Zac, these videos are awesome man! Keep it up!
i died a bit on part where you saved the progress with "overvoltage deltE" string lol
Using flatpak, you can launch whatever on batocera, although you do need some tweaking to make certain files save (like downloads in Firefox) I personally have a web browser, modrinth, and steam.
I can't get enough of these little retro gaming machine builds!
My new favorite channel!
Zac builds: Modernizes the Dreamcast, along with other old consoles
Also Zac builds: *Uses a Raspberry Pi to make them obsolete again*
Also if i recall, doing an NVME/SSD hat will help performance instead of a bog standard SD card
great work Zac!
Really bummed that the post-mortem was cut. I can definitely understand your reasoning, but is there any way you could include the key points in the description?
Video idea to follow on this one - do another case, possibly the same dimensions as the one in the video, that interfaces / sits below the Pi-console. This box could house another PI, or an extension to the PI above, and could house an additional fan, plus storage / other hardware so you could expand the features of the whole system. The two 'boxes' could then be either one system or two and be customized to be anything you would want. Like an emulator + NAS storage, or router + NAS, or whatever anyone could think of :D.
running geekbench with a bare die is, in light words, not the brightest idea.
Some parts of the chip don't have temp sensors, meaning you could have EASILY fried your pi.
DIY perks collab when? ;)
Hopefully soon, but what would they do?
This guy isn’t even close to the same league at diy perks.
not even on the same playing field bro
Your videos been very inspiring and creative. Hope you would also do a Wii “PRO”. Thanks for your hardwork👍
A mini case with a small x86 pc would make a lot more sense. Not as fun to build, but for functionality, way better.
Great job!
This is DAMN COOL, and the kind of tech videos I WANT to click on.
Zack I would love to see a Building the ULTIMATE 3DS video! I'm really curious about what you could do! Love all your projects! 🔥🇲🇽
Another great video!
This is so much better than the time I accidentally listened to the green suiters!
We've got a eufy, best vacuum we've ever had
This might sound a bit strange, but I think older games look better at low resolutions. I feel like they kinda hide imperfections from the hardware of the era. Great build tho. I love how you add such flair to these projects, and make them feel more than just an emulation machine.
Btw as someone who uses PACF a lot, check that part in a months time. Will be as straight as banana. Heat resistant does not mean holds shape with a constant force over time unfortunately :(
At the end of the video, what borders do you use for your emulators? I really like those!
Also, AWESOME video, what a cool project!
Your videos are the craziest tech videos for sure ❤
Is Zac some form of engineer? Just curious how one comes about gaining all this knowledge. Its truly incredible and inspiring!
Just a guy who likes to tinker! Spent most of my life working as a contractor and studied economics in school. Most of my knowledge comes from either trial and error or following in the foot steps of those much smarter than me.
Oh god lol your attempt at integrating the sponsor into the video lol😂. Still better than i could do.
Subscribed. Brilliant vid.
You mentioned that the Pi runs on 5 watts, but the Pi 5 can draw up to 27 watts (which is why they provide a 27W Pi 5 specific adapter). I'm curious if you were using this?
Do it! dry ice alcohol submerged conformal coated pi with remote I/O.. Bigger wires are better especially for power supply.
I'd just use the PLA hold down as a pattern to drill a few holes in some aluminum, use some stiff springs as a thermal expansion compensation under the screw heads and good to go.
A thing of beauty.
I’m running an HP G4 800 mini without the water cooling, and 1/3 the space. And getting better results.
The raspberry pi 5 with 8GB ram is better than my computer (excluding GPU, I don’t know how strong it’s GPU is)
I've always wanted to do some crazy insane cooling. Like desolder every single I/O piece, solder extensions for critical I/O like the power, USB, ethernet, and video, then coat it in liquid electrical tape or conformal coating. Then dunk it in dry ice cooled isopropyl alcohol!
At that point the PCB is naturally going to cool the CPU from below by its thermal mass alone. I don't think there's a better way to cool a raspberry pi!
For your next laptop could you consider the framework laptop? It would be the perfect device for you!
23:45 windows bsod ahh on linux moment
"oooh-boooon-toooo" . Means be good to others
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this. But I'd strongly advise against using K5 Pro. I ran it in a gaming laptop and after 6 months of use, I noticed massive temp increases on my VRAM. When I opened up the system, I noticed massive pitting and bubbling in the K5 Pro accross all memory modules. The K5 Pro had literally boiled, seperated, then congealed. It left pock marks accross all of the laptops VRAM modules that wouldn't come off with 99% IPA. Upsiren UTP-8 thermal putty is a much better, and cheaper, alternative to K5 Pro. I had a significate reduction in temps on VRAM after using UTP-8, compared to K5 Pro. There are many other people, way smarter than me, that have done extensive testing with both putties. UTP-8 comes out ahead in every test.
Zac i have a challenge for you.... Zintendo 3ds/2ds XxL. Use switch sized screens for displays. Hinge or no hinge. Built in grip. Better battery. Better storage. Better speakera. Micro Hdmi out. Headphone jack. i just thought about this in my "trying not to fall asleep" tired mode.
I like seeing your solutions to all the little problems that arise.
I'd have to take a lot more breaks to not lose it😂
considering a lot of engineering youtubers feel absolutely clueless and just lie lol, I was pleasantly surprised to see your video actually being quite informative
soo cool dude
I made a retro gaming system with Raspberry Pi 3 and RetroPie software. But it couldn't run N64 at all. Good to know the 5 can. I so wish I had a 3D printer. I bought a generic electronics hobby box and cut slots in it manually with a Dremel and exacto knife. To power it, I discovered PicoPSU and found a tutorial on installing a powered pushbutton. I have been thinking of making a new one so I no longer have to break out my N64 to play those games and can easily have it all in one place. I was thinking I might also get the M.2 HAT+ addon to use an M.2 SSD.
I would sell my soul to have the tools,time and space nessasary to work on projects like this.😔
I mean you could have just taken a board with an 5105 or even just an N100 for cheaper and fully complete with cooling.
The Pi5 is wayy to overpriced for the hardware, The Raspberry Makers are out of their minds.
You can buy a full mini PC for the same price with less hardware issues and better CPUs with more build-in features.
I remember like 10 years ago when the pi was about education, they'd bring Pis to my school to teach us students about coding and programming. With the steamdeck pushing emudeck it has made emulating much easier now. Even a cheap phone is a better option now for emulation but pi videos still do well it seems
Facts. Pi5 is cool. But for the price + accessories (especially a water cooler lol), you are far better of getting a SFF for less $$$ and more power.
100% An Intel/AMD box running Windows or Linux will be less expensive (and more expandable) than a Pi 5. Since the Pi 4, this has been the case. I've purchased old thin-client Thinkcentre's from Ebay for like $50 that far outperform the Pi 5.
Came for this kind of comment. Boggles my mind that someone is willing to put in the time/money to achieve like 30% of the performance of a recent-ish cheap mini PC for like 4 times as much money.
Great video as always! Would love to see how much the overall performance would improve if the SD card was replaced and the Pi booted off/used an M.2 drive via the PCIe interface.
Keep up the great work.👍
Ultimate would be if you added an NVME SSD while you were at it. With one of those, the Pi5 should be somewhat usable as a backup daily driver.
Incredible
Nice project, although I would have used an integrated Pump/block/reservoir so I could get a smaller footprint, also the 120MM rad might be a bit overkill there are some 92 rads fit it with a 92mm noctua and bang, would be nice to see you getting this project as small as possible without losing the performance, I feel like you have a loooot of thermal headroom with that configuration.
Imagine a cluster where they each had that water block.
🤩
i assume this is intended to be satire, the sheer level of confidence as you spout nonsense is hilarious.
18:14 I noticed some Z axis artifacts. Make sure your Z axis grub nut is very above torque spec for that kind of fastener. If you have a Z axis screw put the grub nut in the shallow part of the thread. Grubs have rounded heads and naturally feel tight while having slip specs lower than torque would indicate.
I think a problem with modern 3d printer design is the tiny surface area of coupler grub nuts lets high torque small movements slip on the metal surface. You get acceptable performance but have these visual imperfections caused by z axis lifts that don't complete. It really really needs to be very tight for the most consistent Z axis layering. Z axis moves the least with the highest torque impulses, moving the whole print gantry.