I have had this printer for over a month now. and the time i havent had to spend manually leveling the bed has been AMAZING! this was definitely a great purchase. I only wish they would come out with a version exactly like this one that had a bigger print bed.
I swear, it really doesn't matter how many 3D printers you review, I always enjoy them from start to finish. They feel like a much more honest review with all the bumps and warts and complaints that make sense
Good catch, though I mentioned it a few times during the video. It's ironic that everything on a printer became silent, then they slap on super noisy part cooling fans :)
Instead of tilting the base to attach the gantry, just slide the base to the edge of your bench and insert bolts from the underside. It's much easier and less chance of messing something up.
Just ordered one of these and am soaking up as much info as I can. Disclaimer: I've never tried 3d printing at all. So this should be interesting. Lol. Great video! Thank you for making it.
They fixed all the issues with Ender 3 Pro in this package for $200. I got my Ender 3 V3 SE for $170 and was astonished it was ready to print after 5 min of assembly. I remember spending a few hours assembling the Ender 3 Pro and tuning it correctly. Print quality is great for $200 sub $200 bucks and CURA may provide slightly better print quality.
I've had this for a while now. After a while the print bed adhesion issue goes away. I also had the opposite problem with Z-offset. It was a bit high, so once the print bed stopped being as sticky my first layer would lift up. As my first 3d printer I'm happy with it. It worked out of the box, and I was able to tweak it as I got used to 3d printing.
I Love how you work through all the obstacles, showing your troubleshooting along with it. I never sit through these long form review vids but I was glued to my screen!
I don't get why people want a crappy touchscreen UI. I'd agree the Ender 3 v3 SE's second weak point is the screen, but just because it isn't the same as the original Ender 3's screen and hence 3rd party support for it will be problematic. Which brings me to the main weak point: probably Creality will again make it difficult to build your own firmware for this thing and include the latest Marlin improvements on it (like input shaping). Ah ... and of course the PTFE-lined heatbreak - that should really not exist anymore!
@@MisterkeTube i hate touchscreens with a passion, feels so unresponsive, and uncertain, with physical buttons i can feel what each button is and i know for certain if i pressed it or not, if i fatfinger a touchscreen i almost panic not knowing if i pressed something or what that something was
The pressure sensor is actually a stepper driver feature. It's been the DIY driver of choice for a few years now, getting them to work as intent can however be a bit tedious. It can be used instead of both endstops and as a high precision (BLTouch) mesh calibration
I had the exact same issue with the non stop extrusion i just got mine in a couple of hours ago!! Printing the cat now and i am already so excited to see what ill print next
Got mine today and skipped printing the cat. Printed a couple of dogs for my kids. The second dog was articulated and they both turned out pretty well. Very satisfied for my first 3D printer and it only cost $160.
6:32 I got an almost-new Ender 3 V2 for $60 from the Micro Center because of this. The printer turned on, but the voltage would sag way down when the heaters came on.
Hey, it's me the nerd that ranted about this printer at VCF Midwest. The force sensor is a dirt cheap one used in scales under the bed on the front left where the nozzle touches.
Japan, North America, parts of South America and some small countries that have 100-115V, most of the world has 220-240V. In Sweden, 400V three-phase is standard even in homes. Up to the distribution board, often further to the stove, the heating system, laundry room and in the villa garage.
Hi,I bought an ender 3 neo in the black Friday sale and it is my first 3d printer and now all I need to do is find out how to make my own designs because I want to make things I can use as a mould former to cast in items in aluminium
Tom Tullis from Fat Dragon Games has some amazing tipps and hints you might want to have a look at now regarding the Ender3 V3 SE. Especially some hints people might want to follow right before powering this thing up. ;-)
It's actually kind of odd seeing them put a knob on the screen unit, if they're trying to save money... you don't see many buttons or switches on gadgets nowadays is because it's cheaper to just use a touchscreen, instead of sourcing and soldering multiple input devices onto the board, and then the actual knob/button/switch lever on top of it. And that's not something you can change with a firmware update like a GUI.
I have the S1. Bought about 6 months ago. I had to set the z-offset manually initially. And I have to check it every few weeks. We've been printing something at least every other day.
Just curious. You removed the parts immediately before they could cool. Maybe they'd release easier when cool. (that's the case with the textured bed sheets I use anyway)
The vertical X Axis motor mount might be because the new Ender 3 KE utilizes the same base components but it has a linear rail mounted on top of the Z/X Gantry extrusion. Necessitating the belts run on the front/back of the extrusion. My guess was they're sharing components and it's simpler to have both models use this arrangement.
A bed slinger that doesn't have a two column gantry is much more stable. Is CoreXY better because of the axis or because it has more rigidity because it needs it?
Subscribed just because of the excellent, funny, yet still clean commentary. This was amazing. "The European Union should ban USB micro." He says, out loud, what we're all thinking! 🤣
I just ordered my 3v3. Can't wait to see how much better it is than my s 3v2. I can't believe you're just 'coming around' on Usb-c. Wow. Once I got used to Usb-c.... There was no going back for me. What about reflashing new firmware to the V3? I'm using MriscoC with Octopi on my V2 and I like it. Have yet to try Klipper on my V2.
Your wisecrack about Tron must be answered. Dude, Tron was released in 1982. It's and OLD movie so of course it's not going to look good today. The computer graphics are laughable by current standards but they were state of the art back then. Look at it this way, the Apple II was still a hot item when that movie was new. For that matter, I had an Apple II sitting on my desk at home when I first saw Tron (I wish I still had that computer). Also, it was supposed to be a Disney children's movie so comparing it to Matrix is not valid in the least. Your video about the Ender was good. I enjoyed it.
That alien blob trying to suffocate the nozzle, that was cool😎 sometimes, some other brands a better prepared for bugs after all those sales. Not bad for 350w, not even a dollar a watt.
@@BenHeckHacks I am not sure to be honest. It looks like to me that the layer that held the copper is missing. it was a thin sheet but there is also no other gold/copper traces i can see with my eyes. We both live in the same state. wouldn't be hard to send it to you.
I found all current entry level models follow the same design with only slight variations. A colleague at work recommended the Neptune 3 Pro to both me and a trainee, latter already got hands on his and brought it to work past week. It costs 210€ which is only slightly more expensive and has microUSB instead of Type-C, for that the display has touch inputs. Print speed is about the same but it uses a rebranded CURA version with its own profiles rather than its own slicer, which is nice because I am already used to Cura. Thanks for the review, Ben, I probably go and check my bank balance again and then decide which one to pick. Oh also... 230V is standard for Europe too.
When I use Cura with my Kobra Max I have the following lines in my start G-code: M420 L which loads the bed mesh then M420 SL which tells the printer to use the mesh.
29:25 Your mention of Bud being a needy cat makes sense, but from Buds perspective it must be maddening. He can’t find who to steal your attention away from when you are talking to-camera.
If I'm not crazy, the metal z height probe is below the print nozzle height. So if you want to make the nozzle print higher from the print bed at first layer extrusion, the Z offset should be a bigger negative offset number, not smaller, as you did in the video. Am I getting it wrong?
The CR Touch is for the bed to adjust for slight warping due to heat so it's ok that it's closer to the bed, the nozzle has a force sensor and the bed has a load cell in the corner for accurate nozzle position. Combine all those measurements into a mesh and you have a shockingly accurate bed level without you having to do anything.
You are. The probe is considered 0, and the offset of say -2.52 is how much further to move to make the nozzle reach the bed. A higher delta (ie a lower number further negative from 0) means it moves farther/presses into it more.
I'm a total noob waiting for my 1st 3d printer to be delivered tomorrow and trying to learn in advance. what does adjusting Z axis manually achieve after the bed was calibrated by the sensor? or is it an entirely unrelated setting? thanks!!!
Thanks for the great video i have been using a anycubic mega x for the last 2 years tho bed is warping now and there is no where that still stocks the bed so just ordered the ender 3 v3 se off amazon as did not want to spend much as only use it for printing keyrings for my motorcycle group
I'm wondering since you have a kobra plus, would you recommend this printer over it? The kobra plus I found is $200 and a bigger build plate would be nice, but I'd rather have a printer that's headache free. Would this printer be easier to deal with day to day vs the Kobra? I'm currently running an anet et4 with no auto anything.
I dont mind if printer doesnt have touch screen, Its not like you use it often or need to some "complex" clicking. As far as UI is fast and simple, its ok to use knob. For me biggest minus is lack of wifi as I know that wifi is cheap as hell, as we can buy light bulb with wifi for 5-6 bucks... Still I dont mind using sd card or usb, but when you print lots of smaller things when prototyping you send files every hour or half hour to printer so its kinda annoying if you cant reach it with usb cable and you need to use card...
You really really need to check the gantry level, and then redo the mesh, you will then probably need to shim the bed as well, the mesh you showed when you first set it up is one of the worst I've seen, and get rid of that standard bed sheet and get a PEI one, the stock bed sheet SUX, they stick like crazy. Oh, and check the bed screws and all the hot end for tightness, they are nearly always loose.
When you bgo to print something, you have Calibration switched on, so it will calibrate before every print Tourn it off and it wont go through the calibration every time.
One thing I could see 3d printer companies doing is making an app for tablets that allows you to plug the tablet in and use it instead of the control screen.
Bud needs his own sub-channel, he'll have more subscribers than Ben. I bought an ender 3 v3 se after listening to your review and I hope it will be a great plug and play printer with the default .4mm print head. My 2nd printer, Thanks. I have a really disapointing JgAurora a5 which almost only printed blobs of failures and needed a week of tuning full-time to have 3 successful prints. Today I fixed it for good, Just like you explained at 27:13 , the bed is a different piece than the bottom of the stand, I had to change the z-limit height by drilling holes in the bracket and tightening it with a bolt, washer and nut, also I had to tighten all the leveling screws to make the bed rigid instead of "on springs", a second reason for all the failures was that since the print head is custom 1mm and the wire 1.75mm it was under extruding all the time, so I changed the amount of extruded filament to 130% and the retraction length was way too long, 2mm is enough instead of 8mm. Next upgrade, a generic bl touch for the automatic 16 point bed leveling test.
I just bought a new ender 3 v3 se and set it up today, December 9 2023. the firmware will not start the prints. I tried Creality's slicer and Ultimaker Cura, neither slicer started the printer.
Creality and Ender 3 were the best 3D printers for years. The user community, the price point, and the quality.. But.. They have crept up in price, their competition has lowered in price, and they continue to sell products with less features and functionality. Elegoo is the new Creality imo.
Am i the only one who would love to have some teaching/electronic videos from ben instead of these 3d print reviews? Come one ben... a highly skilled man like you can use his youtube time way smarter and interesting for your viewers.. i really miss the old element14 days.. sure it was scripted but at least you could learn something.. (sorry if my english suck)
I have some printer and I need some help! So I unboxed it and ran the test print no problem. But when I put my gcode files on the SD card (the card the printer came with), my files don’t show up under the printable files on the printer display. What is the problem??? I got my STL files from Thangs and then put them in the Creality software to slice them and turn them into gcode. I have NO IDEA what my problem could be. Any ideas anyone???
The Navy also would not have its pilots fly through a valley, intentionally send inferior fighters against an enemy when it doesn't have to, and it would not tell its pilots to use flares against radar guided missiles. Other than that perfect movie.
The navy would jettison a piolet from a a perfectly good F35 instead of fly under a bridge. lol. Also, you should PSO for Dreamcast online. Way cooler than Starfield.
I was a little tipsy when I watched this on Friday night. One of these showed up on my door Sunday.
-preorder-
drunkorder
It worked out well. I've been pretty happy with it as a first printer.
@@heatedpoolandbar awesome!
Is there a second channel where I can see Bud's review of the box that it came in?
When he gets out of the box it’ll get posted, maybe.
I have had this printer for over a month now. and the time i havent had to spend manually leveling the bed has been AMAZING! this was definitely a great purchase. I only wish they would come out with a version exactly like this one that had a bigger print bed.
I swear, it really doesn't matter how many 3D printers you review, I always enjoy them from start to finish. They feel like a much more honest review with all the bumps and warts and complaints that make sense
You missed being relatively quiet is also a big plus! Especially for newbies that will have this set up in their bedroom or kitchen.
Good catch, though I mentioned it a few times during the video. It's ironic that everything on a printer became silent, then they slap on super noisy part cooling fans :)
I remember my Ender 3 Pro, that thing was loud... going to this, night and day difference.
Instead of tilting the base to attach the gantry, just slide the base to the edge of your bench and insert bolts from the underside. It's much easier and less chance of messing something up.
Yep!! That's exactly what I did!
We need a BUD STATUE standard test print!
USB-C is superior to all other forms USB. The fact it doesn't mater which way up it is makes it so much better.
Just ordered one of these and am soaking up as much info as I can. Disclaimer: I've never tried 3d printing at all. So this should be interesting. Lol. Great video! Thank you for making it.
how did it serve you?
They fixed all the issues with Ender 3 Pro in this package for $200. I got my Ender 3 V3 SE for $170 and was astonished it was ready to print after 5 min of assembly. I remember spending a few hours assembling the Ender 3 Pro and tuning it correctly.
Print quality is great for $200 sub $200 bucks and CURA may provide slightly better print quality.
I just got one and I've got no complaints for the price.
I’ll hold out for the Ender 3 V3 SE Pro V2 Mk 4 Rev B Update 16.2.
It must have a force sensor, it comes in Vader black.
It will interface with the Xbox One Series X Vista 98 11 2000.... ME
I've had this for a while now. After a while the print bed adhesion issue goes away. I also had the opposite problem with Z-offset. It was a bit high, so once the print bed stopped being as sticky my first layer would lift up.
As my first 3d printer I'm happy with it. It worked out of the box, and I was able to tweak it as I got used to 3d printing.
I Love how you work through all the obstacles, showing your troubleshooting along with it. I never sit through these long form review vids but I was glued to my screen!
For Ender-style printers, I actually prefer the rotary encoder over touch screens.
I just want the clicking to be more subdued. Most are louder than anything else on the printer.
After trying out their touch screen controls on the ender and more notably on the cr10 I definitely prefer the encoder knob over touch.
I don't get why people want a crappy touchscreen UI. I'd agree the Ender 3 v3 SE's second weak point is the screen, but just because it isn't the same as the original Ender 3's screen and hence 3rd party support for it will be problematic. Which brings me to the main weak point: probably Creality will again make it difficult to build your own firmware for this thing and include the latest Marlin improvements on it (like input shaping). Ah ... and of course the PTFE-lined heatbreak - that should really not exist anymore!
I find I can navigate faster with a rotary anyways
@@MisterkeTube i hate touchscreens with a passion, feels so unresponsive, and uncertain, with physical buttons i can feel what each button is and i know for certain if i pressed it or not, if i fatfinger a touchscreen i almost panic not knowing if i pressed something or what that something was
The pressure sensor is actually a stepper driver feature. It's been the DIY driver of choice for a few years now, getting them to work as intent can however be a bit tedious. It can be used instead of both endstops and as a high precision (BLTouch) mesh calibration
You’re my childhood hero. Nice references and the hiss lol
I had the exact same issue with the non stop extrusion i just got mine in a couple of hours ago!! Printing the cat now and i am already so excited to see what ill print next
Got mine today and skipped printing the cat. Printed a couple of dogs for my kids. The second dog was articulated and they both turned out pretty well. Very satisfied for my first 3D printer and it only cost $160.
Can confirm, plugging 220/230v power into a device expecting 115/120v is less than ideal, unless you're going for a quick way to obtain magic smoke.
It makes your cheese toasts black: ruclips.net/video/H66Fbg9nrk4/видео.html
It's so good to listen Uncle Ben talking about all those cat and 3D printing experience.
6:32 I got an almost-new Ender 3 V2 for $60 from the Micro Center because of this. The printer turned on, but the voltage would sag way down when the heaters came on.
bro benheck still kicking. its been over a decade since i saw one of your videos.
Hey, it's me the nerd that ranted about this printer at VCF Midwest. The force sensor is a dirt cheap one used in scales under the bed on the front left where the nozzle touches.
Bud patiently waiting for his box to be emptied.
Your video made me upgrade from my ender 3, so glad i did 😁
Recently we got K1 into the office absolutelly beast. Thinking about getting ender for myself to home but not sure yet
Japan, North America, parts of South America and some small countries that have 100-115V, most of the world has 220-240V.
In Sweden, 400V three-phase is standard even in homes. Up to the distribution board, often further to the stove, the heating system, laundry room and in the villa garage.
Hi,I bought an ender 3 neo in the black Friday sale and it is my first 3d printer and now all I need to do is find out how to make my own designs because I want to make things I can use as a mould former to cast in items in aluminium
I prefer the wheel control rather than touch screens in the workshop because filthy fingers and touch screens are a recipe for endless muck-ups.
I like the screen with the knob. It works just fine.
Tom Tullis from Fat Dragon Games has some amazing tipps and hints you might want to have a look at now regarding the Ender3 V3 SE. Especially some hints people might want to follow right before powering this thing up. ;-)
I've just got Ender v2 neo recently, i missed this one, may have been better although it has its problems im satisfied with v2neo
It's actually kind of odd seeing them put a knob on the screen unit, if they're trying to save money... you don't see many buttons or switches on gadgets nowadays is because it's cheaper to just use a touchscreen, instead of sourcing and soldering multiple input devices onto the board, and then the actual knob/button/switch lever on top of it. And that's not something you can change with a firmware update like a GUI.
Yeah I know. Knobs are kind of expensive!
I have the S1. Bought about 6 months ago. I had to set the z-offset manually initially. And I have to check it every few weeks. We've been printing something at least every other day.
I’m completely with you on Tron. I walked out of the movie theater 15 min into the movie.
Just curious. You removed the parts immediately before they could cool. Maybe they'd release easier when cool. (that's the case with the textured bed sheets I use anyway)
Nah, it just never wants to let go. I just got one and the PC sheet is a pain in the ass
Wow. I remember Computer Renaissance. Used to work across the street from one in Latham NY.
I'm ok with the screen/knob; the little touch screen for the Raspberry Pi is like $30, so $30 on a $200 printer is a significant percentage.
I hope to see the cat more often! 😺
The vertical X Axis motor mount might be because the new Ender 3 KE utilizes the same base components but it has a linear rail mounted on top of the Z/X Gantry extrusion. Necessitating the belts run on the front/back of the extrusion.
My guess was they're sharing components and it's simpler to have both models use this arrangement.
A bed slinger that doesn't have a two column gantry is much more stable. Is CoreXY better because of the axis or because it has more rigidity because it needs it?
I like the subtle Steve1989 reference “Nice hiss!”
Subscribed just because of the excellent, funny, yet still clean commentary. This was amazing. "The European Union should ban USB micro."
He says, out loud, what we're all thinking! 🤣
I just ordered my 3v3. Can't wait to see how much better it is than my s
3v2.
I can't believe you're just 'coming around' on Usb-c. Wow. Once I got used to Usb-c.... There was no going back for me.
What about reflashing new firmware to the V3? I'm using MriscoC with Octopi on my V2 and I like it.
Have yet to try Klipper on my V2.
I hope Ben has the chance to review a Creality CR-M4
Your wisecrack about Tron must be answered. Dude, Tron was released in 1982. It's and OLD movie so of course it's not going to look good today. The computer graphics are laughable by current standards but they were state of the art back then. Look at it this way, the Apple II was still a hot item when that movie was new. For that matter, I had an Apple II sitting on my desk at home when I first saw Tron (I wish I still had that computer). Also, it was supposed to be a Disney children's movie so comparing it to Matrix is not valid in the least.
Your video about the Ender was good. I enjoyed it.
Hey Ben, do you think you can make your own portable Sega Genesis?
Stop trying to make him solder things - would you make Frodo go back to Mount Doom?
I have in the past, plus the Sega Nomad already exists. I have one, been thinking about fixing it up.
@@BenHeckHacks - If anybody could retrofit a 32x into a Nomad..
That alien blob trying to suffocate the nozzle, that was cool😎 sometimes, some other brands a better prepared for bugs after all those sales. Not bad for 350w, not even a dollar a watt.
Love you content Ben! Say, uh got any advice on how to fix a solder pad that got ripped out on a circuit board?
Yeesh. Look for the trace and see if there's a via or something you can branch off of?
@@BenHeckHacks I am not sure to be honest. It looks like to me that the layer that held the copper is missing. it was a thin sheet but there is also no other gold/copper traces i can see with my eyes.
We both live in the same state. wouldn't be hard to send it to you.
Are you still making pinball and arcade machines?
Lets get this out on a tray. nice.
I found all current entry level models follow the same design with only slight variations.
A colleague at work recommended the Neptune 3 Pro to both me and a trainee, latter already got hands on his and brought it to work past week.
It costs 210€ which is only slightly more expensive and has microUSB instead of Type-C, for that the display has touch inputs.
Print speed is about the same but it uses a rebranded CURA version with its own profiles rather than its own slicer, which is nice because I am already used to Cura.
Thanks for the review, Ben, I probably go and check my bank balance again and then decide which one to pick.
Oh also... 230V is standard for Europe too.
When I use Cura with my Kobra Max I have the following lines in my start G-code: M420 L which loads the bed mesh then M420 SL which tells the printer to use the mesh.
I'm here for the "get off my lawn" phase of Ben Heck
6:42 lol just noticed the sticker says "damgage" instead of damage
29:25 Your mention of Bud being a needy cat makes sense, but from Buds perspective it must be maddening. He can’t find who to steal your attention away from when you are talking to-camera.
If I'm not crazy, the metal z height probe is below the print nozzle height. So if you want to make the nozzle print higher from the print bed at first layer extrusion, the Z offset should be a bigger negative offset number, not smaller, as you did in the video.
Am I getting it wrong?
The CR Touch is for the bed to adjust for slight warping due to heat so it's ok that it's closer to the bed, the nozzle has a force sensor and the bed has a load cell in the corner for accurate nozzle position. Combine all those measurements into a mesh and you have a shockingly accurate bed level without you having to do anything.
You are. The probe is considered 0, and the offset of say -2.52 is how much further to move to make the nozzle reach the bed. A higher delta (ie a lower number further negative from 0) means it moves farther/presses into it more.
Are you in the DFW area? If so, so am I!!! Just south of dallas.
I'm a total noob waiting for my 1st 3d printer to be delivered tomorrow and trying to learn in advance. what does adjusting Z axis manually achieve after the bed was calibrated by the sensor? or is it an entirely unrelated setting? thanks!!!
Go into the start gcode for your purge line in Curality. Lower the flow or raise its layer height.
Thanks for the great video i have been using a anycubic mega x for the last 2 years tho bed is warping now and there is no where that still stocks the bed so just ordered the ender 3 v3 se off amazon as did not want to spend much as only use it for printing keyrings for my motorcycle group
I'm wondering since you have a kobra plus, would you recommend this printer over it? The kobra plus I found is $200 and a bigger build plate would be nice, but I'd rather have a printer that's headache free. Would this printer be easier to deal with day to day vs the Kobra?
I'm currently running an anet et4 with no auto anything.
I dont mind if printer doesnt have touch screen, Its not like you use it often or need to some "complex" clicking. As far as UI is fast and simple, its ok to use knob.
For me biggest minus is lack of wifi as I know that wifi is cheap as hell, as we can buy light bulb with wifi for 5-6 bucks... Still I dont mind using sd card or usb, but when you print lots of smaller things when prototyping you send files every hour or half hour to printer so its kinda annoying if you cant reach it with usb cable and you need to use card...
You really really need to check the gantry level, and then redo the mesh, you will then probably need to shim the bed as well, the mesh you showed when you first set it up is one of the worst I've seen, and get rid of that standard bed sheet and get a PEI one, the stock bed sheet SUX, they stick like crazy. Oh, and check the bed screws and all the hot end for tightness, they are nearly always loose.
Love your videos!
The mre joke was everything for me
When you bgo to print something, you have Calibration switched on, so it will calibrate before every print
Tourn it off and it wont go through the calibration every time.
It’s a good printer!
One thing I could see 3d printer companies doing is making an app for tablets that allows you to plug the tablet in and use it instead of the control screen.
Bud needs his own sub-channel, he'll have more subscribers than Ben.
I bought an ender 3 v3 se after listening to your review and I hope it will be a great plug and play printer with the default .4mm print head. My 2nd printer, Thanks.
I have a really disapointing JgAurora a5 which almost only printed blobs of failures and needed a week of tuning full-time to have 3 successful prints. Today I fixed it for good, Just like you explained at 27:13 , the bed is a different piece than the bottom of the stand, I had to change the z-limit height by drilling holes in the bracket and tightening it with a bolt, washer and nut, also I had to tighten all the leveling screws to make the bed rigid instead of "on springs", a second reason for all the failures was that since the print head is custom 1mm and the wire 1.75mm it was under extruding all the time, so I changed the amount of extruded filament to 130% and the retraction length was way too long, 2mm is enough instead of 8mm. Next upgrade, a generic bl touch for the automatic 16 point bed leveling test.
I feel sad I haven't been around for the past several months. Miss you Ben, hope all is going well!
I'm OK. And no worries I haven't had time to make many videos either :(
@Ben Heck Hacks What is that Plastic scraper that you use I need one?
Tell me, has Bud got big enough yet to start repairing and making his own mods yet?
If not, why not?
No opposable thumbs.
@@Okurka. a poor excuse, or should i say paw?
No. He can only destroy! He is MODOC - a Mewing Organicism Designed Only for Cuteness
@@BenHeckHacks Ah stupid me! I forgot. Or Bud brainwashed me. They do that y'know?
Overclock that 115v,230v to 600v ,it should take it with the bottom fans, 4times faster 😁
ben heck now is a 3d printing channel
It sorta always was, it just had regrettable acting to distract you.
It's an improvisational musical channel with long technical interludes
I prefer knobs, I'm old school I guess.
But getting back to the printer...
I just bought a new ender 3 v3 se and set it up today, December 9 2023. the firmware will not start the prints. I tried Creality's slicer and Ultimaker Cura, neither slicer started the printer.
Also, that slicer is based on PrusaSlicer.
Yours did like mine when leveling it had blue and yellow lights is there a way to fix them to all green ? I'm not understanding the process.
Torn between this and the k2 neo, but heard that people have issues with the probe and z offsets on it.
Maybe now that Microsoft owns Bethsoft maybe they can hire some people good at modeling and animating faces? Oh, and force them to use a new engine!
The faces in No Man's Skyrim were completely unacceptable for a next-gen only 2023 game. Also the UI was godawful.
The force sensors are under the bed.
What slicer program are you using
Is there a way to turn off the LCD screen beep when you press it?
The line is sticky. Its easier to remove when its hot.
Can you use it with an iPhone?
Creality and Ender 3 were the best 3D printers for years. The user community, the price point, and the quality.. But.. They have crept up in price, their competition has lowered in price, and they continue to sell products with less features and functionality. Elegoo is the new Creality imo.
Am i the only one who would love to have some teaching/electronic videos from ben instead of these 3d print reviews? Come one ben... a highly skilled man like you can use his youtube time way smarter and interesting for your viewers.. i really miss the old element14 days.. sure it was scripted but at least you could learn something.. (sorry if my english suck)
Ben we didn’t get a Christmas livestream this year, did you meet a woman or something, hope all is well
Can ender v3 se use abs filament ?
Have u tried it
Can't be listening to that level of Tron slander 😞
I have some printer and I need some help!
So I unboxed it and ran the test print no problem. But when I put my gcode files on the SD card (the card the printer came with), my files don’t show up under the printable files on the printer display. What is the problem???
I got my STL files from Thangs and then put them in the Creality software to slice them and turn them into gcode. I have NO IDEA what my problem could be. Any ideas anyone???
The Navy also would not have its pilots fly through a valley, intentionally send inferior fighters against an enemy when it doesn't have to, and it would not tell its pilots to use flares against radar guided missiles. Other than that perfect movie.
I've gotta say, I don't like all the cosmetic bits. I prefer everything to be easily accessible or only behind a metal panel with a few screws.
What! How can you say that about TRON!!!!!
How to make add block for non support hole
the knockoff bl touch is a cr touch i believe :P
220V Sweden
The navy would jettison a piolet from a a perfectly good F35 instead of fly under a bridge. lol. Also, you should PSO for Dreamcast online. Way cooler than Starfield.
Nice hiss!
Hey now, that og Mario movie was a cinematic masterpiece? You apologize for your blasphemy!