How Good is the NEW Ender 3 V3 Metal Frame Printer?
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- Опубликовано: 10 май 2024
- This looks like an impressive printer, so it is?
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Sometimes what we think will happen vs reality aren't the same. Ever since testing my first CoreXY printers, I thought it would be the end of the bed slinger and we'd see a quick transition to a better format. For smaller bed slingers, it makes quite a bit of sense to me, smaller printers have less mass to move around, they're nice and portable, cheaper and simpler to build, but when we start trying to increase the bed size, we have all of that mass to move around at high speed. Better firmware helps quite a bit, but the issue still remains. Can we move a large mass of the bed and still have the same results as a CoreXY Printer? That's what we're trying to find out.
I have a soft spot for this type of printer, and I prefer how open these printers are compared to the enclosed printer, it's just so much easier to see what's happening on a bed slinger.
So let's find out how good this Ender 3 V3 Metal Frame Printer really is!
Another way to support this channel is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
Fast Bed Slinger
Creality Ender 3 V3 (Metal Frame) - shrsl.com/4j1h0
#1 Core XY - Best bang-for-buck
QIDI Q1 Pro - qidi3d.com/products/q1-pro?sc...
This printer isn't as full featured as the X1C, but it is very capable and very precise. It also has a heated chamber and can reach higher hot end temps.
#2 Core XY - Most Features but Pricey $$
Bambu X1C - shrsl.com/4j1gz
#ender3
#ender3v3
#3dprinting 
Хобби
6:47 I laughed too much at the arrow written on your pointy finger 🤣
Great video ! I would love to see more test about this printer, it seems to be a new standard on the bed slinger quality spectrum, aside of the bambulabs. Keep the good work !
at 5:18, that looks like a wifi antenna for the printer.
It indeed is a WiFi antenna
Rather weird that the guy didn't guess the role of such a "thin cable" as he mentioned it. Likewise here ruclips.net/video/9znUsGZduZk/видео.htmlsi=W3rufsccaGQWUKBB&t=498 when he remained silent, visibly ignoring the role of that board... a banal breakout board for anyone who knows electronics, arguably not his case... Another amusing ignorance ruclips.net/video/9znUsGZduZk/видео.htmlsi=C-vumjOo8dv8_RU4&t=395 playing with the step-motors like some wagons on a rail... That may induce current and damage the control board if the design was not good. Definitely not recommended. The question is "What the point of reviewing a device when you don't understand its electronic/electrical design?"
@@joetkeshub calm down. humans make mistakes. feel free to watch another channel. And if you open your eyes and use your brain you can see that not even a single stepper is connected. But it's ok. humans make mistakes :)
@@joetkeshubso pedantic
Absolutely. The Wifi is on that plastic part because the whole base is metal - so, the Wifi antena wouldn’t work properly if inside.
Great video, thanks for sharing your review
Very interesting review, thanks!!! I like this printer.
Great video!
this kind of quality proves creality can do better and should adjust their lineup accordingly
For more consistent lines, you should disable the "power loss resume" feature via a gcode at startup. I noticed a big difference on my KE which is already on a dedicated UPS.
Epic printer. If you are reading this & still own an old Ender, throw it in the trash & buy it now. This thing is on another level in comparison.
How difficult would it be to make custom extruder cover to use with longer bolts/rods to support the bearings?
Hello. Thank you for the thorough review. I recently purchased the Ender 3 V 3. How often should I lubricate the rails with the provided grease? The manual didn’t specify on the timeline of lubrication. Thank you in advance.
Great video. keep up the good work mate... 👍👍
How's the quality of the electric circuitry in the base? Creality has had problems with that in the past, fire hazards and such. Thanks
They resolved the unstable bed and made it more rigid overall. But print quality isn't up to par? Thanks for the video and infor.. Still haven't purchased my first 3D printer...LOL. The search continues!
Comparing it to a printer at 3.6x the cost is a bit unfair imo...
Sovol SV08. I just got one and it is fantastic
Bondtech have upgrade kit to k1 and k1 max with extruder, whole x rods and belt tensioner. I would like to see what difference that made, to know if this upgrade is really worth the money...
Thank You for yet another great video! Don't you suspect, that all those artifacts along Z are caused by Core XZ nature of the printer. not by extrusion inconsistency?
Dang, bummer that you weren't able to figure out the layer consistency issues. I've been trying to figure it out too. I was hoping it wasn't the extruder but looks like we're gonna have to wait for an upgrade or something.
Great video, thank you. Do you have any success with a profile for Orca slicer? As there isn't an official profile for the V3, I've tried using the K1 profile for it and also copying the config from Creality Print Slicer to build my own profile but I can still see much better quality when using the default Creality Print slicer than any other trial of the Orca slicer.
K1 profile would be dialled for a faster, enclosed, and more capable CoreXY printer so I'm not surprised that it wasn't doing so great.
I'd recommend starting with another Creality direct-drive bedslinger like the Ender 3 S1 Pro. Modify the start Gcode for Klipper ABL (replace "M420..." with "BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default"), tweak the speed/acceleration/temps/whatever to match the V3 specs, and start calibrating/refining from there.
5:37 and 9:02 ; it looks like the exhaust from the psu is blocked just like the ender 3v2
I think you'll find the gantry isn't level which is what causes the lines. I have returned the KE because of this.
Regarding cooling, in the V3 KE's config it has a minimum fan speed of 55%.You can't set it lower since variable_fan0_min is set to 140. Maybe the V3 CoreXZ is the same.
Did you try Creality Print 5 on this printer yet?
They seem to have worked a lot on cleaning up that Y axis assembly, looks pretty good! However it's disappointing to hear that it's quite the noisy machine, I would prefer listening to a KE with your rails mod on my bed stand, compared to hearing that thing in the next room! And why do they keep making these extruder assembly's out of plastic? It's a part that's held together under tension, you can guess that might introduce slight deviations in the extrusion. For the Ender 3 KE (and possibly SE) with the Sprite extruder, you could upgrade that with the anodised aluminum shell from the Sprite Pro extruder. Pair that with some gears with better geometry and coating, and the extrusion will become even smoother, with an instant visible improvement in printing precision. With the transparent PETG that I like to print, the transparency increased a lot too because of this. Perhaps some similar upgrades for the K1 series exists like that since it somewhat matches that extruder.
How's the build quality? Did you just order it, or did you possibly receive a model which went through actual QA since you are a youtuber?
My V3 SE had quite poor build quality; the slider plate came bent, the heat bed is also slightly bent and the CR touch gave out error messages after some month of use. Also the frame has the backwards bent. To be fair, Creality support sent me replacements for the slider plate and the CR touch after I contacted them.
After all, it's not just about the materials used for the printer, but also about how well the machine is made.
I find it cool we were discussing spacing out the linear rods and bringing them as close to the bed as possible with printers like the V3 SE and KE, and this printer actually uses a similar ethos. I think taking it to the extreme is still likely to get the best results on a bed slinger. Stability and repeatability are key.
Or just buy a bambu and never do any of that again and idk instead print things instead of having a printer as a project since it garbage.
@@bad1c368 😂 Jesus I've never seen someone lick a company's boots so hard. Buy me the printer and I'll use it! Personally I'd go with a Q1 Pro for my money.
Bambu labs is a good brand of 3D printers for people that know nothing about 3D printing. And that’s where the discussion ends, it’s that simple!
@@hetisbbq or someone who doesn't want a 3d printer as a project, but if you like wasting time, be my guest.
@@802Garage so truth is licking a company's boots, ok.
Interesting review 👍.
On the "extrusion issue", have you been able to test the "lack of Z accuracy" hypothesis?
Replacing wobbly 25stp/mm lead screws with a 5stp/mm timing belt might improve accuracy at the cost of the precision, hence the random surface artifacts.
This is especially true with the loooong belt, two motors coupled together, and the use of elastic auto-tensioners. Elastic belt tensioners shouldn't be used in a precision mechanism driven both backward AND forward under variable load (acceleration). Better use manually ajustable position tensioners or viscoelastic auto-tensioners for such application.
Or just buy a bambu and never do any of that again and idk print things instead of having a printer as a project since it garbage.
That small PCB when taking apart the bed is a wifi antenna.
Was hoping to find comparison points to the KE
Less analytic list without actually owning either, based on reviews of both printers 😅:
- More rigid metal frame out of the box (what SE and KE should have been).
- Possibly worse extruder.
- Nozzles are more expensive.
- CoreXZ makes the printer stand out, but doesn't necessarily make it better. It might actually be less accurate (fewer steps / mm -> even less torque on some sections of micro stepping, belt flex) in Z.
They bought out the antenna because the cast alu base will prevent good signal reception.
I received mine 2 weeks ago and after setting it up received temperature alarms. Call Creality and they were of little help. I played around and finally found the thermistor had a bad wire. I called Creality to report and after the run around they told me they warehouse in America was out and they would have to ship it from China. I went on to Amazon and foundd a hot end, installed it and the printer has been working ever since. I'm still waiting for the part to come from China. One thing that worried me when I bought this printer is the lack of parts since the printer is so new. When I knew the thermistor was bad I went on Amazon and there were none available . After Creality told me it was out of stock I went back to Amazon and the hot end was available.
creality has the worst customer service ever !
how do you compare to Ender 3 V3 KE? or even SE? no one has covered this, on your POV you could get views from this niche interest that no one talk about
I had to look up the other printer you mentioned because I've known bambu to be a bit more expensive... the x1c is 1200$ enclosed and you compared to to an open bench printer that's less than half that price....i already ordered a v3 plus which is still less than half the price of the x1c...obv different, being a bed slinger vs a solid enclosed printer.
How does it compare to the k1/k1max? That's the one you would compare to the x1/x1c
That being said, the prints look pretty good quality wise, at least at 200mm/s...
Of course, it depends on your needs and budget, but i always compare price to performance, which means the x1/k1 are out as comparisons since they're completely different printers.
Curious how it handles the max speed of 600mm/s vs the x1c 500mm/s, that would be good to see, as there's almost no videos showing the 600mm/s quality.
If it's anywhere near the same quality, the winner is clear to me based off of price for performance, not that anyone prints max speed, but i also don't think it's a fair comparison at all in this video...
Edit: i didn't see anything about bed leveling, do these just compensate when auto leveling every time?
Dang, it almost looks like the printer always has fuzzy skin turned on! It's not like the prints are horrible, but there is definitely extrusion inconsistency going on there. I think you are right that the extruder is to blame since it seems to be an issue across c
Creality printers.
Thanks 👌
You're welcome! I hope that Creality can adjust their extruder to have a good solid option for future.
@@NeedItMakeIt This printer marks a significant starting point for Creality to shift its mindset and develop more efficient printers in the future,
By the way, on the board, there is an empty AI camera connector. I noticed this connector on the Ender-3 V3 plus, and I don't understand why Creality would include these small details and not add a feature that already exists from a hardware standpoint.
what is your opinion in this
@@sevagjb It certainly needs some kind of camera, ideally it would be bed mounted for smooth captures, except that it would need to be super rigid to handle the fast movement. Other printers they are competing with have cameras and AI detection, so I would say that it should be there. Like you say, there are already cameras available. At least there should be a plug-n-play option.
@@NeedItMakeItThank you for your answer and interest,
I believe you may have misunderstood my point. If you watch the video from Creality After-sale on replacing the motherboard for the Ender 3 V3 Plus, you will see the connector in question. It links the main board to the hub inside the printer. This connector is absent in the standard Ender 3 V3 but is present in the Plus model. Why does Creality implement such changes?
if you change the nozzle, then you need to unscrew the screw into the radiator from the side, otherwise the throat will be broken
Would have been nice if they made some of these improvements to the KE, but I haven't had any major issues with mine, so I can't really complain too much 🤷🏿♀️
There is a Y axis rail mod that is fun and easy to maje on the KE. Also a Z rail stiffener.
You should have compared printed parts vs something of the same caliber / price range as the Creality. Comparing it to the X1C, $1500 printer, is pretty wild. The X1C is in ever way better and also in an entirely different bracket of 3D printing.
$200-500 printers is essentially the middle ground, it's good enough and can work well enough for most people. I currently have a Neptune 4 Pro and out of the box with minimal once over / tune up I went straight to printing 0.2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle at 200-250mm/s and I barely saw any noticeable / super abnormal texture comparable to the texture you saw from this Creality printer.
It's almost as if most of the printers now day specifically in the mid range price point they aren't able to run a 1:1 scale. The software outmatches what the actual hardware is able to efficiently and precisely reproduce. There needs to be ultimate precision from all of the moving pieces to perfectly match what it's being told to do.
Seeing your prints from your X1C every now and then has really made me want to get something that can produce that type of quality every time. I'm still relatively new to the hobby. I've only had two printers over the last year or so but I read a lot and look around a lot. The results you achieve on that X1C is truly spectacular.
Although X1C is an amazing printer and revolutionized our current market. There are much better options. The Qidi Q1 Pro is really good especially at it's price range. Heated chamber & 350C nozzle which the X1C has neither. I do want to point out that the X1C is only $1,199, not $1,500 atm.
The rod diameter of a precision ground rod is much more accurate than your calliper. You need a micrometer to accurately measure that.
If his expressed tolerance is "about" then a caliper is fine.
@@jamiemacdonald436 the whole point of measuring it was to show how precise it was. You can’t do it with that instrument.
thnx
Keep us updated about this printer. Recently got the printer and I don't know where to connect with other owners if there are any upgrades or something.
Use ptfe spray on the rods, it really makes a big difference.
Ant1 = wifi antenna?
I still love my basic Ender 3 lol. Paid $130 for it on BestGear in 2018. I have printed full complete car parts and lithophanes, everything. All types of materials even recycled PET bottles, and yet every new printer that comes out I'm always disappointed. The only thing I like about this one is the probe-less auto leveling. It's funny when people Z band and I still have a single Z axis lead screw. I'm not interested in printing faster just to have a z banded printed part.
I've never printed with my Ender 3 (at 93 e steps I barely have to configure that) 11:24 and had a part be 'too cool' lol. The bedsheet enclosure is hilarious, my Ender 3 can print ABS in open air at 300% feed rate. I just don't get these printers man.
"My ender 3 can print ABS in open air at 300% feed rate"
what you failed to mention is the print also failed
So is the base cast aluminum or injection molded?
Injection molded
@@sidimasDie casting. Injection molding is for thermoplastics
Nobody: Needs a better BambuLabs
Creality: "Let's take the worst aspects of all cartesian printers, bundle them in die-cast shcmaluminium, and suffix it V(n+1)
First of all, it's creality, so expect garbage out of the box, last product of theirs I ordered was a K1, hotend broken out of the box, sent it back never going to order from them again, I have two other of their printers ender pro and v2, sitting doing nothing since they both died less than 2 months out of their boxes, order a bambu, never going back.
That “sensor” maybe the WiFi antenna
Starting to look like a Prusa 😁
Are you Canadian?
I would guess UK?
@@kimmotoivanen Imo he doesn’t have the accent to originate from Europe. He sounds almost American, but pronounces zed. That’s my reasoning, but I could be totally wrong!
I am Canadian!
@@NeedItMakeIt Appreciate the response. Glad to know you're not an American pronouncing zed haha.
please test their claim of 20k accel. i think it is bullshit for a bedslinger. my experience with OG ender 3 is max 2k before smoothing occurs. i am eager to know how much the bed construction in V3 helps.
Bambu has 2k for outerwall on the A1 and 10k for infill and movement. It might be the same sauce that is happening. My E3 V2 does the same on klipper with orcaslicer, 2,5k on wall and 6k on infill and movement.
Looks like it's using sensor less homing.
It's a Creality product. That means it's automatically low quality, no QA, crap.
Firstly, I like your name! I see an attempt with this printer to break free of what they had done, but they needed to overhaul the extruder as well, they've used a similar design to the K1, which just isn't as good as the other printers out there these days, lots of competition and they need to continue to improve to be able stay in the game. Can you share a bit of your experience with Creality, which printer(s) do you have?
Injection moulded aluminium base?!?
Go Q and A.
With the amount of subs you have now, is it enough to get enoug revenue to buy printers for more content ?
Would you recommend this over the KE?😅
Or just buy a bambu and never do any of this. again instead of having a printer as a project since it garbage.
nah, I'm good with Bambu Lab.
Sure, let's put 3 meters long belts on a bedslinger for no reason, nobody needs that for Z.
It’s such a poor decision to recommend putting a blanket over any 3d printer. Such a fire hazard. Honestly, take the video down and remove that section. If new to printing folks see this and follow your advice, the risk they are taking on is high.
meh. Fire hazard, true. But this is how we bring back natural selection.
ruclips.net/video/9znUsGZduZk/видео.html : The belt on the CoreXZ is not parallel! This is not a very good design.
My apologies for not getting back sooner, which belt, the Y axis, or all belts? Does belt angle matter, as opposed to distance travelled? Angle and distance are usually related, but in this case the contact with the pulley is only on the surface and that distance would remain the same no matter which angle, correct me if I'm wrong.
Please don't use Creality Print, it's very finicky to say the least, after I switched to Prusa Slicer, and later to Orca Slicer, I had much MUCH better experiences with my Ender 3 than with Creality Print
Please don't ever promote putting BLANKETS over your 3d printer !!!
aftermarket "printer enclosures" (which are really just rebranded photo booths) are a very bad idea when you consider all the electronics they're trying to cool with fans are recirculating the warm printer air as well. Real enclosures keep only the print volume warm and allow fresh air for the control boards. Now imagine everything wrong with said enclosures, and make them highly combustible too. That's basically a blanket over a printer.
Dude. You smushed your hands and fingers all over a PEI build plate and then 2 minutes later complained about parts lifting off 🤣🤣
Ambient temps are a consideration, which is why enclosures are a thing (not a filthy bedsheet with no visibility), BUT skin oils are kryptonite for PEI adhesion, either keep your hands away or make a clear disclaimer and wash the plate with dish soap and warm water before printing on it.
What you refer to as strain gauges are more commonly known as load cells. The exact same kind that is in digital kitchen scales for example! :)
As a dumbass consumer looking for reviews in order to make purchase decisions, your decision to pick it apart before testing completely invalidates the test. People don't know what they don't know, I don't know what you don't know that you don't know, so whether the artefacts are from the printer itself or from you putting it back together is unknowable to me. Just some food for thought
Принтер для домохозяек, жужжит и ладно😂
-0:01 No
It's 2024, without klipper it's just a metal garbage.
Nah, still prefer my Ender 3 classic. Modification, maintenance and study is much better there. And if you have money? You can buy Bambulab, I guess. Or even hire a professional, who will tinker and model and print for you. = )
I think I'll choose what you didn't mention, which is doing what I want
Sadly as soon as you take it apart it invalidates any test results. Test first, then take apart. Don't be a Dave Jones.
Why is that? Doesn't it come unassembled?
You have to assemble it to use it. Your comment makes no sense.
Dumbest comment in the history of all YT comments. Maybe think first then add comment instead of pooping out your fingers.
Ok guys I think we made our point, he won’t be back.
Bambu BOT? Lol
The logic of "the factory assembled it better than I could do." Doesn't hold up with creality printers. I had to disassemble my V3 KE to get good results. The bed assembly had not a single screw installed tightly enough. Bottom line, you are better off dissembling all of the motion system and reassembling. Loctite is a good idea too as creality does not use it.
Bed slingers suck and I'm glad the market is going away from them.
Erm.. the fact that this is a new release proves they aren't going anywhere.
Only part I agree with is that bed slingers suck.
Even Bambu had this mentality, then released two for accessibility in the lower cost bracket.
They'll probably stick around a long while yet in the lower cost side of things; the motion systems will just become more consistent and cost effective solidifying that position more.
There are more bed slingers on the market now than ever before....
If the motors on a bed slinger drove gears that directly interacted with a gear rack that was monolithic with the bed, instead of the belt driven systems that bed slingers have now, they would be alright
They seem to work fine, but coreXY just makes a lot more sense to me. There's less forces acting on the print while it's printing, meaning it's more likely to succeed and/or finishing with higher quality. Jerking the part around seems to go against the idea of keeping things as consistent as possible.
Bambu Lab is the best, Creality sucks
spoken like a true consoomer