9 year old video and it just got me out of a jam. Sometimes taking pictures before tear down just isn't enough. Thank you so much for the in depth video.
I install drum brakes on my 98 about 5 years ago. I am in the process of changing the parking brake cable and the brakes didn't look good so I am replacing them while I have it apart along with all the hardware, self adjusters and new drums. Although I generally got it right before, watching this video shows me how to do it better with things like the grease on the back plate and the series of installing the springs. I also showed where i made a bid mistake before by installing the left hand adjusting wheel on the pax side and the right hand wheel on the drivers side. As a result, my self adjuster never worked. Also, the pads I bought worked but all of them were the small pads. I bought them from a seller on ebay and they worked but not as effectively. I order high quality Raybestos shoes from Rock Auto and I got the ones with the larger pad for the rear of the vehicle. Thanks guys for a great video.
Great video thank you very much . This video could serve as a model for others on how a DIY video should look. Very very thorough and the images were well lit and focused .really nice job . Thanks again.
The 1997 F-150 has the sweetest, cleanest body style. Mine is rear wheel drive XLT and what a nice truck even 22 years later. I also own a 2000 XL and it's much lighter.
There is nothing at all better than video documentation. This was very helpful. I took my own pictures before starting and still went back to this video.
Thank you for doing an excellent video! Good thing I watched it because I was going to put the spring washer on the wrong side of the emergency break piece that has the clip on it. After watching this I will be able to get my truck back together like it is supposed to be!!! My truck is a 1997 Ford F 150. Should have watched the video before taking it apart it would have been a little easier knowing the order to take things apart.
wow you guys did a great job on this video, thought I had mine on correctly and thought I better find something to check, realized I had a few things wrong. thanks I am a fan
Thank you for this video please make more if you can. you are very easy to follow and understand. very professional, you should be getting paid for these.
Good video, thanks. You should have mentioned(warned) about not removing the parking brake lever from the cable/spring. Near impossible to get the spring back on and cable secured to lever.
Thanks for the VID again. This is what I need to do also. The front discs are all that stops the truck now. Somehow always passes "inspection" but they are so grooved you can see it through the wheels. Kinda scary to have bad breaks when people cut in.
Very nice ins ruction here. Thanks. I have a left rear cylinder on y 1996 F250 that is bad. The brakes do not exhibit anything that would indicate needing to replace the pads etc. Do you think there is any way to get at the cylinder with having to take all the pads, springs etc. off? Thanks!
what size and length brake line does a 1997 ford 150 rear drive side need. i replaced mine but the drive side line broke and neither napa or auto zone had the right line. It a 3/8 to the wheel cylinder but the other mounting point is a different size and i cant find an adapter long enough.
I'm having trouble with my '97 F150. I just bought it and removed the drum on the passenger side. the ebrake cable isn't attached and looks like it will slide through the brake lever. how does it attach and is there a clip or something that holds it?
Just did both my rear wheel cylinders without taking any of that off... Disconect the break line remove the two bolts on the back of the drum then pry it out
one thing I would add the nut on the brake line that goes into to the cylinder they get a lot of crud might be a good idea to spay around where the line goes through the nut and work it back and forth until it frees up you don't want to twist the line
It is a good video however you never show installing the er break cable to the the lever. See I have a huge problem when I removed the spring from The old er lever the ball end went inside the spring . Now I don't know how to get it hooked onto the lever. How can I get enough slack in the cable to get it all the way through the spring. Any suggestions?
I have a 1997 f150. I need a backing plate and push rods for the wheel cylinder. will you give me some suggestions on where to purchase without having to pay dealer prices?
Wish I saw this video before I started on my own, I ended up with a retracted parking brake cable on the right rear side I should have left it connected in place, the other side is fine
I have a clunking sound coming from my 97 f150. Only clunk when I hit the breaks in slow speeds. Had another guy listen with I drove like around 5 mph, he said when I hit the breaks he can hear it from my rear left side tire. Could my drum break make that noise?
Luis, the clinking sound is typically when a part of the brakes or wheel are not installed correctly or not torqued to spec. I’ve had this problem on my front brakes from not torquing down the big, main bolt (19mm I think) and from reusing the worn shoe brackets. Either way, it not a safe condition and you should fix it ASAP
Yes. The 5.4l and 4.6 are the same parts all around the only difference might be the size of the rear end and the motor internals. But like 90% of f150s were the ford 8.8 the lightning had the upgraded 9.7" rear or what ever it was.
My truck is a 1998 f150 4x4. I replaced all you did on the video and now the driver rear is locking . I try so many things to fix it but it just imposible. Any idea how can i get it right
+GVO Hosthenprofit I should have said the bracket the spring sits in breaks and allows the spring to come loose and grind around in the drum. when i take off my wheel after i hear the terrible squealing i see the bracket of the adjusting level cable spring all bent up and usually broken which allowed the spring to fall out.
I THINK YOU SHOULD SMEAR A LITTLE BIT MORE VASELINE ON THE CAMARA LENS! LOOKS LIKE YOU GOT TOP SECONDARY SPRING IN REVERSE OF HOW YOU REMOVED IT AT 17:33 WHEN YOU REMOVED IT THE SECONDARY WAS OUTSIDE...PRIMARY WAS INSIDE...IF IT MAKES A DIFFERENCE...
16:15 DANGER, DANGER, WILL ROBINSON!!! A novice should be wearing heavy gloves if fingers get near that spring during installation. Misbehaving spring would rip right thru that fingertip.
My son and I did the same job on my truck today, no new drums, but put shoes and wheel cylinders on. I can't get the drums back on either. I'm at a loss.
+moto4power Well crap.. Im changing my rear shoes and cylinders tomorrow driver side is leaking a Kit is $5.99 new cylinder is $10.99.. new is taking all the fun out of rebuilding.. no fun in replacing.. I think years ago I had that problem I sanded the shoes down only like a 1/64 of an inch..
What the heck your supposed to transfer those no wonder I was going nuts because the new one didn't have the groves. I think I'm gonna return the duralast I got I'm not happy its made in china. And when I installed the brake line in the new cylinder it wouldn't stop leaking reinstalled the old cylinder and leaking stopped I mean really.
How about some vinyl gloves dude, a wire bush, and a regular paint brush an be a little more liberal on clean up. Lastly brake cleaner on the shoes before drums go on...
this video sucks. cant see anything cuzz hands are in the way. the narrarator is off timed with whats happening. they dont zoom in so you can actually see and they keep jumping between L and R without telling
Авто/Мото
9 year old video and it just got me out of a jam. Sometimes taking pictures before tear down just isn't enough. Thank you so much for the in depth video.
I put that little washer in the wrong side of the shoes oh well 😂
11 yrs. old but a big help. Very detailed. Thank you!
I install drum brakes on my 98 about 5 years ago. I am in the process of changing the parking brake cable and the brakes didn't look good so I am replacing them while I have it apart along with all the hardware, self adjusters and new drums. Although I generally got it right before, watching this video shows me how to do it better with things like the grease on the back plate and the series of installing the springs. I also showed where i made a bid mistake before by installing the left hand adjusting wheel on the pax side and the right hand wheel on the drivers side. As a result, my self adjuster never worked. Also, the pads I bought worked but all of them were the small pads. I bought them from a seller on ebay and they worked but not as effectively. I order high quality Raybestos shoes from Rock Auto and I got the ones with the larger pad for the rear of the vehicle. Thanks guys for a great video.
Great video thank you very much . This video could serve as a model for others on how a DIY video should look. Very very thorough and the images were well lit and focused .really nice job . Thanks again.
The 1997 F-150 has the sweetest, cleanest body style. Mine is rear wheel drive XLT and what a nice truck even 22 years later. I also own a 2000 XL and it's much lighter.
There is nothing at all better than video documentation. This was very helpful. I took my own pictures before starting and still went back to this video.
BEST VIDEO ON HERE FOR MY YEAR AND MODEL
Mr. Williams, Thank you for posting this video. It made my day a lot easier. Great detail. I followed your video step by step. Thanks very much.
Great video! Very detailed and descriptive. Thank you! I haven't changed drum brakes in years! I use to hate it. But now I feel like a pro!
Excellent video, very helpful. I'm in the process of doing the drum brakes on my 1998 F150 and this helped a ton.
Excellent video on rear brake repair guys,....the very best I've seen.
This is an amazingly well done video. About to tackle my first brake drum job on my '91 F-150, and this video covers every possible angle.
he makes this look so easy. very well explained. thank you
Thank you for doing an excellent video! Good thing I watched it because I was going to put the spring washer on the wrong side of the emergency break piece that has the clip on it. After watching this I will be able to get my truck back together like it is supposed to be!!! My truck is a 1997 Ford F 150. Should have watched the video before taking it apart it would have been a little easier knowing the order to take things apart.
Thank you guys! Much appreciated instructional video. Well done.
Great explanation of the rear drum assembly. By far the best I've ever had the pleasure to learn from.
thanks joe great video for the ages
Video really helped a lot, thanks Joe!
Thank you joe, this was very helpful.
wow you guys did a great job on this video, thought I had mine on correctly and thought I better find something to check, realized I had a few things wrong. thanks I am a fan
Thank you for this video please make more if you can. you are very easy to follow and understand. very professional, you should be getting paid for these.
Awesome video helped me get through my first time
incredibly quality video.
Subscribed
Thanks so much for the info!! Great explanatory video!!!!!
Fantastic video thank you so much
Well done guys, thanks!
Thank you very much for a nice informative video.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Good video--Thanks old Cat mechanic.............
liked video,my 97 f150, 375,000 still running strong
Very good and helpful video
Helluva good video boys, thanks!
Thanks for info.. Nice explained
Thanks alot man, you saved my day!
Great video,
Great video man your video helped me big-time!!!!
Very informative video.very thorough.thanks. now all I have to do is wait for the weather to warm up to tackle this job.
Great video thanks for sharing helped a lot
thank you for the video great job. planning to do the same to my F 150.
Super good job.
great job help a lot
Gracias Joe!!!!!!. Excelente!!!
Good video, thanks. You should have mentioned(warned) about not removing the parking brake lever from the cable/spring. Near impossible to get the spring back on and cable secured to lever.
You are awesome!
THANKS JEO .
Thanks for the VID again. This is what I need to do also. The front discs are all that stops the truck now. Somehow always passes "inspection" but they are so grooved you can see it through the wheels. Kinda scary to have bad breaks when people cut in.
Omg!! I just saved $260.00 by watching this video!! Thanks guys
Very nice ins ruction here. Thanks. I have a left rear cylinder on y 1996 F250 that is bad. The brakes do not exhibit anything that would indicate needing to replace the pads etc. Do you think there is any way to get at the cylinder with having to take all the pads, springs etc. off? Thanks!
what size and length brake line does a 1997 ford 150 rear drive side need. i replaced mine but the drive side line broke and neither napa or auto zone had the right line. It a 3/8 to the wheel cylinder but the other mounting point is a different size and i cant find an adapter long enough.
Awesome video! Thank you! Should you break in drum breaks?
I'm having trouble with my '97 F150. I just bought it and removed the drum on the passenger side. the ebrake cable isn't attached and looks like it will slide through the brake lever. how does it attach and is there a clip or something that holds it?
Just did both my rear wheel cylinders without taking any of that off... Disconect the break line remove the two bolts on the back of the drum then pry it out
What are the two *slightly bent silver washers* for and the 2 *non bent black* washers for???
one thing I would add the nut on the brake line that goes into to the cylinder they get a lot of crud might be a good idea to spay around where the line goes through the nut and work it back and forth until it frees up you don't want to twist the line
It is a good video however you never show installing the er break cable to the the lever. See I have a huge problem when I removed the spring from The old er lever the ball end went inside the spring . Now I don't know how to get it hooked onto the lever. How can I get enough slack in the cable to get it all the way through the spring. Any suggestions?
I have a 1997 f150. I need a backing plate and push rods for the wheel cylinder. will you give me some suggestions on where to purchase without having to pay dealer prices?
Are 1997 F150 brakes the same as 1994 F150 brakes, or were there changes?
Wish I saw this video before I started on my own, I ended up with a retracted parking brake cable on the right rear side
I should have left it connected in place, the other side is fine
I have a clunking sound coming from my 97 f150. Only clunk when I hit the breaks in slow speeds. Had another guy listen with I drove like around 5 mph, he said when I hit the breaks he can hear it from my rear left side tire. Could my drum break make that noise?
Luis, the clinking sound is typically when a part of the brakes or wheel are not installed correctly or not torqued to spec. I’ve had this problem on my front brakes from not torquing down the big, main bolt (19mm I think) and from reusing the worn shoe brackets. Either way, it not a safe condition and you should fix it ASAP
I wish you would show a better illustration on how to install the parking brake bar that is what I'm struggling with
Except your video and two others, all the sources I have seen has the wavy washer directly under the horseshoe clip.
also take note of the bottom spring it will go on either way if you get it backwards the adjuster wheel will hit the spring
does this also apply to a ford f-150 4.6 Litre?
Yes. The 5.4l and 4.6 are the same parts all around the only difference might be the size of the rear end and the motor internals. But like 90% of f150s were the ford 8.8 the lightning had the upgraded 9.7" rear or what ever it was.
Would this video apply to an early 90's F250 4x4?
Anyone still commenting or is a dead thread?
This is exactly what my '91 F-150 2wd looks like, so I would expect it's pretty standard.
FYI, same parts/processes for 2000 model. 👍
how about on rear duellys
My truck is a 1998 f150 4x4. I replaced all you did on the video and now the driver rear is locking . I try so many things to fix it but it just imposible. Any idea how can i get it right
U ever fix this? Kinda running into the same problem like it’s tooo tight drum can bearly fit in n it’s tight af turning the wheel . 😢
my 1997 ford f150 brake shoe adjusting lever cable spring keeps breaking. ive replaced it twice now..anyone have any ideas?
+GVO Hosthenprofit I should have said the bracket the spring sits in breaks and allows the spring to come loose and grind around in the drum. when i take off my wheel after i hear the terrible squealing i see the bracket of the adjusting level cable spring all bent up and usually broken which allowed the spring to fall out.
I'm bot replacing wheel cylinder would I still have to bleed brake lines
+Garett Johnston Yes
no, as long as you dont disconnect any of your brake lines.
Good video... wasn't fussy on the voice layover drinking while in between sentences though. Besides that well done video. Darn near professional.
Ok I take it back he started this video like the movie Pulp Fiction lol
Did rear brakes on 1998 F150 2wd and same prob as francisco rayo - driver rear wheel locked. wtf
Great video but anybody watching install the self adjusters in the right slot otherwise you'll f**** the whole assembly
I THINK YOU SHOULD SMEAR A LITTLE BIT MORE VASELINE ON THE CAMARA LENS! LOOKS LIKE YOU GOT TOP SECONDARY SPRING IN REVERSE OF HOW YOU REMOVED IT AT 17:33 WHEN YOU REMOVED IT THE SECONDARY WAS OUTSIDE...PRIMARY WAS INSIDE...IF IT MAKES A DIFFERENCE...
16:15 DANGER, DANGER, WILL ROBINSON!!! A novice should be wearing heavy gloves if fingers get near that spring during installation. Misbehaving spring would rip right thru that fingertip.
what if the drum doesn't go back on......i did not replace the drum just the pads.
My son and I did the same job on my truck today, no new drums, but put shoes and wheel cylinders on. I can't get the drums back on either. I'm at a loss.
buddywayne1 same for me my friend
+moto4power Well crap.. Im changing my rear shoes and cylinders tomorrow driver side is leaking a Kit is $5.99 new cylinder is $10.99.. new is taking all the fun out of rebuilding.. no fun in replacing.. I think years ago I had that problem I sanded the shoes down only like a 1/64 of an inch..
+Jam Ward (“bambam”) finaly I replace the spring kit for 15$ more and the drum go back very well because they tight the shoes
What the heck your supposed to transfer those no wonder I was going nuts because the new one didn't have the groves. I think I'm gonna return the duralast I got I'm not happy its made in china. And when I installed the brake line in the new cylinder it wouldn't stop leaking reinstalled the old cylinder and leaking stopped I mean really.
Hello 240P alas we meet again :(
How about some vinyl gloves dude, a wire bush, and a regular paint brush an be a little more liberal on clean up.
Lastly brake cleaner on the shoes before drums go on...
Zip pic
Need to be brain dead with the repetition over and overrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
this video sucks. cant see anything cuzz hands are in the way. the narrarator is off timed with whats happening. they dont zoom in so you can actually see and they keep jumping between L and R without telling
Real men don't wear gloves.