@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken thank you for all your P1 videos, kinda higly useful. I have my 320 caliper and brackets ready, but miss that retention piece, does it comes with pads or i need to source it other way?
Although S80 discs work, they're not 100% correct. You want Mk3 Focus RS rotors, because they have the same lug stud hole diameter as P1 vehicles. S80 rotors have a bigger bolt hole diameter and that allows the disc to slide back and forth between the hub and wheel when braking.
In my Focus ST mk2 the standard brakes stopped working after the third braking. I tried changing to brembo calipers from a bmw 7 e38 with adapters and discs from the Focus RS mk2 (336x28 or 30). they were never as they should be, they always seemed to be not bleeded. Finally, I bought the cheapest Focus RS mk3 brembo calipers, with 350mm discs and they are exactly as they should be - easy and simple modification. Rear - classic Mazda 5 CR19 bracket and 302mm disks from Focus RS mk3 ;)
I currently run the 320mm setup up front and Mazda 5 brackets rear with Mk3 Focus RS discs. Pads are EBC Bluestuff which has a better bite than Yellow. Like you I have Wilwood 6 pots too and they weren’t worth it for a road car. Mine had two piece rotors and the main advantage was the HUGE reduction in unsprung weight. You could feel the suspension was much better able to react to the road surface with them on, even though the actual performance was not much better, although that was with the supplied BP-10 compound pads. The 320mm setup with decent pads and fluid is all anyone really needs, but the Mk3 RS brakes can be fitted up front too if you run 18s or bigger, and if I were going for a proper BBK again I could have got K-sport ones cheaper. However I live in the UK so getting decent pads for the 320s is easier than the US
Howzit mate do you reckon the Ford Focus RS brake kit has no fitment issues with the P1 platform you’ve mentioned that the factory 18 inch alloys have No issues clearing the calipers can you elaborate on this I’m looking to buy this kit
@@waltervila33 The Mk3 RS rear brakes will fit under any stock wheel. The fronts will need a 18 inch or bigger rim as they are 350mm diameter. To fit the RS brakes up front you will need to drill out the caliper mounting bolt holes on the hub (I want to say from 12mm to 14mm), and put a 5mm spacer behind the brake disc. Search ST225 RS brake conversion and you’ll find a video of it being done including everything you’ll need to do.
The great debate for C30 owners which brakes work best for the P1 platform I reckon KT4 brakes are outstanding if a bit overkill for the street and expensive that will be my choice going forward
I strongly question where KT4 sources some of their parts from. I avoid them like the plague after seeing the terrible quality of the stuff they fabricated themselves.
Went on the track with my C70 largely due to your videos. First time and definitely got a lesson about brakes. Ran the stock 320/280 setup but super glad that I did a brake refresh with new pads and SS lines. I'd painted my rotor hats and calipers with VHT engine metallic paint which was completely toasted after just only three sessions in one afternoon. With all the work you've done on your C30, I imagine you've thought about brake vents - are they not viable for P1's?
I have thought about it, which was part of the reason for cutting out the vents over the fog lights and removing the washer fluid reservoir. I just haven't gotten around to ever finishing this project.
320mm for the front? That's exactly what I have shown in this video... Bolt on upgrade from other Volvo models. 320mm for the rear? No direct bolt on Volvo options. There are some upgrades available from Mazda and Ford though.
GarageLine and H&R both make quality spacers. Depending on the offset that you want, if you go with 15mm or wider, then I highly suggest getting spacers with the studs pressed in, similar to what you see on my car here. Then you don't need to remove all the hubs to press in longer studs.
I said in the video, Hawk HPS and EBC Yellow Stuff are both my preferences for performance cars that get driven on the street. The HPS perform just as good as the Yellow Stuff, but are cheaper.
A majority of the people that debate about breaks have never tracked the car hard so I don’t buy anyones bs. Common sense aint so common these days, proper pads/fluid will do you better than any off the shelf bbk. Not talking hawks or performance pads… real track pads like gloc or carbotech are vital.
bracked is mazda 5 pre facelift rear ones, discs are S80 p3 ones, for electronic parking brake, NOT venter ones.
Pinned, thanks!
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken thank you for all your P1 videos, kinda higly useful. I have my 320 caliper and brackets ready, but miss that retention piece, does it comes with pads or i need to source it other way?
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Since it’s pinned: C2Y62628XA - bracket
30769059 - discs
@@Dssfox Some pads will include that retainer clip, some will not. Here is the part number: 30683271
Although S80 discs work, they're not 100% correct. You want Mk3 Focus RS rotors, because they have the same lug stud hole diameter as P1 vehicles. S80 rotors have a bigger bolt hole diameter and that allows the disc to slide back and forth between the hub and wheel when braking.
In my Focus ST mk2 the standard brakes stopped working after the third braking. I tried changing to brembo calipers from a bmw 7 e38 with adapters and discs from the Focus RS mk2 (336x28 or 30). they were never as they should be, they always seemed to be not bleeded. Finally, I bought the cheapest Focus RS mk3 brembo calipers, with 350mm discs and they are exactly as they should be - easy and simple modification. Rear - classic Mazda 5 CR19 bracket and 302mm disks from Focus RS mk3 ;)
I currently run the 320mm setup up front and Mazda 5 brackets rear with Mk3 Focus RS discs. Pads are EBC Bluestuff which has a better bite than Yellow.
Like you I have Wilwood 6 pots too and they weren’t worth it for a road car. Mine had two piece rotors and the main advantage was the HUGE reduction in unsprung weight. You could feel the suspension was much better able to react to the road surface with them on, even though the actual performance was not much better, although that was with the supplied BP-10 compound pads.
The 320mm setup with decent pads and fluid is all anyone really needs, but the Mk3 RS brakes can be fitted up front too if you run 18s or bigger, and if I were going for a proper BBK again I could have got K-sport ones cheaper.
However I live in the UK so getting decent pads for the 320s is easier than the US
Howzit mate do you reckon the Ford Focus RS brake kit has no fitment issues with the P1 platform you’ve mentioned that the factory 18 inch alloys have No issues clearing the calipers can you elaborate on this I’m looking to buy this kit
@@waltervila33 The Mk3 RS rear brakes will fit under any stock wheel. The fronts will need a 18 inch or bigger rim as they are 350mm diameter.
To fit the RS brakes up front you will need to drill out the caliper mounting bolt holes on the hub (I want to say from 12mm to 14mm), and put a 5mm spacer behind the brake disc. Search ST225 RS brake conversion and you’ll find a video of it being done including everything you’ll need to do.
Oí did you get me message mate
@@mcgherkinstudios brilliant thanks very much
My v50r AWD came with 320mm in the front and I upgraded to the Ford RS brackets in the rear which upped it from 280mm to 302mm
A little fun fact of the front 320mm calipers is they have the exact same piston diameter as the front 300mm ones.
yep. only gain you get is increased leverage from bigger discs.
@@Dssfox Not only the increased leverage, also they take longer to heat up than smaller rotors, meaning brake fade will take longer to happen.
2023 we need another c30 tail of the dragon rally!
Come on down! The mountain is fine!
The great debate for C30 owners which brakes work best for the P1 platform I reckon KT4 brakes are outstanding if a bit overkill for the street and expensive that will be my choice going forward
I strongly question where KT4 sources some of their parts from. I avoid them like the plague after seeing the terrible quality of the stuff they fabricated themselves.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken so do you reckon Brembo to be the best choice then from viva Motorsport they have an attractively priced big brake kit
@@waltervila33 Brembo or Ceika are both good options. If I ever want more from the brakes, I'll probably go with the factory Focus RS brembos.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken where can I get those?
@@waltervila33 Ceika sells directly from their website. The Focus RS brakes can probably still be bought from Ford or look for a used set online.
Went on the track with my C70 largely due to your videos. First time and definitely got a lesson about brakes. Ran the stock 320/280 setup but super glad that I did a brake refresh with new pads and SS lines. I'd painted my rotor hats and calipers with VHT engine metallic paint which was completely toasted after just only three sessions in one afternoon.
With all the work you've done on your C30, I imagine you've thought about brake vents - are they not viable for P1's?
I have thought about it, which was part of the reason for cutting out the vents over the fog lights and removing the washer fluid reservoir. I just haven't gotten around to ever finishing this project.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Thanks. Never would have thought of getting on a track before watching your P1 videos. Really puts things in perspective!
Is there a direct bolt on 320 upgraded from one of the other larger Volvo's for a c30
320mm for the front? That's exactly what I have shown in this video... Bolt on upgrade from other Volvo models.
320mm for the rear? No direct bolt on Volvo options. There are some upgrades available from Mazda and Ford though.
@MyNameIdeasWereTaken my bad missed the first 5 seconds then you ont to say about all the clips and spacers was just what model they came from 👍
Hey! What spacers do you recommend for a p1 volvo? My fitment is not the best...
GarageLine and H&R both make quality spacers. Depending on the offset that you want, if you go with 15mm or wider, then I highly suggest getting spacers with the studs pressed in, similar to what you see on my car here. Then you don't need to remove all the hubs to press in longer studs.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken you should have talked about spacers and wheel setups in this video lol would have made it longer
What pads do you recommend mate
I said in the video, Hawk HPS and EBC Yellow Stuff are both my preferences for performance cars that get driven on the street. The HPS perform just as good as the Yellow Stuff, but are cheaper.
A majority of the people that debate about breaks have never tracked the car hard so I don’t buy anyones bs. Common sense aint so common these days, proper pads/fluid will do you better than any off the shelf bbk. Not talking hawks or performance pads… real track pads like gloc or carbotech are vital.
isnt 320mm in the front standard in the US?
No, 300mm are standard. Only some AWD S40s, some AWD V50s, and some C70s came with 320s, but not all of them.