Thanks for your very informative videos! I have a Victorian weatherboard (Baltic pine) in Melbourne with 4 layers of paint, some of which are hard as a rock! So I bought a Bosch 125mm variable speed grinder and some Norton Blaze Rapid Strip discs, and it worked a treat! Boards are stopped back to bare wood, like brand-new. Note, not all strip discs are created equal. Some have coarse nylon and silica carbide fibres, some have fine fibres. I was nearly at my wits end the other week when I started stripping my boards manually with a paint scraper (my elbows are still recovering!). Then, I tried a Festool Roxtex, which does a beautiful job but waaay too slow. So after some googling I was amazed to see you using a grinder, and now I just wish I’d seen your video earlier! Thanks again.
Thanks for commenting, nothing beats the grinder with a sanding head, not possible if your sanding lead paint due to safety issues. Im glad you got it sorted.
Please make more content I’ve been watching all of your videos for the past two months I love watching you paint and you have such helpful tips I am painting Contractor that works solo also. I am in Canada but had a friend just go to aus They pick me up some monarch brushes love your content keep posting
Edited original comment to bring in line with reply below. And thanks ThePa1nter for taking the time to reply and your wise info much appreciated mate. As did burn out a 4" grinder sanding back my old weather board house round 25yrs ago. Which was probably a budget model as well. Not that should matter. Just that cooling fan is on end of drive shaft and 100% cooling @ full no load speed. If working hard and speeds drops to 50% then cooling drops to 25%. Hence body gets hot so best run up to full speed again to cool down in a couple of minutes, rather than sit for hours to cool down. So have recently found out online. But hey, was just quoted 14K to repaint so if did burn out could still come under consumables if DYI. But as replied below The Painter has been running his for up to 20yrs. So now confident to carry on. Also comments about kickback and neighbour said that ran his 7" sander at half noise after a kick back. But maybe wasn't operating right as well. Just that again, best cooling happens at full speed, obviously.
We have been using angle grinders for many years, continuously, hundreds of hours,the only thing that wears out eventually after a year or so is the brushes and they are replaceable. I have grinders at home 20 years old.
Thanks for posting. Given a lot of DIYers watching this, will be impressed with the speed of this method, you might want to draw attention to what can happen when that disc (which is pretty slim) gets pinched by the siding or in any small gap - very serious kick back, enough to force the grinder out of your hand and send it spinning in your direction. That disc is spinning at anything up to 11,000 rpm, if it does get caught, it is impossible to hold onto the tool. And yes, I used to use an angle grinder in this way, and after two near misses decided to try out other methods. I guess you're well experienced with this method, and know to avoid situations where this can arise, but less experienced users wouldn't know. You've never had kick back using this method? Do you do anything to the surface before using this method? I'm guessing the discs are zirconium?
Great subject to bring up, if you hold your grinder the wrong way it can kick back but if you watch and follow the way im holding the grinder,the grinder only spins one way and that's the secret. Its impossible to jam,in fact it will slow the grinder right down if it gets caught.Ive been sanding this method for 40 years,only once did I have a problem when I was sanding fazia above my face when it caught and I have several scars on my cheek from it. I have a couple of other videos that show the sanding as well.
@@ThePa1nterhowtoThanks I think so too. I've seen the other videos, my point is you may have perfected a way of handling it such that it's 'impossible to jam' but that's something it would be a good idea to post a video about. Personally I'm still unclear having watched your videos very carefully and reading your explanation above, how your method completely removes the possibility of the grinder jamming. The fact is whichever way you cut it, if the wheel is caught or pinched (such that it can't turn anymore), it doesn't just slow down, it stops suddenly hence kickback. Particularly a grinder like this, which I'm assuming is spinning anything between 8,000 and 11,000 rpm; doesn't have variable speed; and doesn't have a safety cut out when the wheel is jammed? Without you clearly demonstrating how you reckon this can be removed as a risk to the user, you're going to have your viewers think there's nothing to this and thereby setting them up for a fall - no? Still interested if you do anything to the surface before you begin sanding? and whether the Norton disc is zirconium?
I once used a huge grinder in this way and it kicked back and hit me in the stomach and kicked me off the ladder onto my back on the lawn. Got a real fright and used the smaller grinder, and more carefully since that experience
@@jaynz247 Looks like you had a lucky escape. Even the smaller grinders need to be treated with a great deal of respect. In terms of faster sanding - faster than using a Festool Rotex in geared mode, there are far safer and almost equivalent systems, which also provide an opportunity to extract the dust produced - better for you (even working oustide you're breathing some of that dust in, without the proper equipment), and better for the environment: particularly where you're removing many layers of paint, some of which contain lead. Not sure what the laws are in Australia, and as far as I know not much in the way of legislation in UK, but from what I know from guys in the U.S. the rules are pretty strict about controlling hazardous by products of reno work. Yeah it's great to rip through linear feet of 30/40 year layers of old paint systems - but on so many other levels this really is old school gone badly wrong.
You can just put your first coat on with your exterior paint, putty, prep and hand sand 180 grit sandpaper till smooth. Add two more coats of the exterior paint. Or you could use oil based primer but nowadays there is no need. It will still be perfect in 10 years time with all exterior paints.
@@ThePa1nterhowto but if you say 3 coats and you already have some undercoat, why not that then 2 top coats...? Seems more logical to me... being a painter... and the fact that the 3 in 1 sticks better than top coats on anything... Just saying... but the angle grinder is the biz!
Just curious whether you've left swirl marks in the boards or existing coats? They are usually seen from an angle when the finished coats have been applied...
All hardwood weatherboards are cut origional with a circular saw and come with circular cut marks,even at a hundred year old wood. I personally don't leave marks that can be seen through the top coats but I do on purpose have fine swirl marks for paint adhesion,even on my floors that I sand, different to deep grind marks left by amateurs that sand.
Hi there, looking for some advice. I have bought a 30yr old cedar cladded house which has never been looked after, so only ever stained once. The sun has slowly started to burn the timber and fade. What sander would you advise me to use? You also mentioned Weathershield paint. Would I have to paint an oil based primer first? Then 2 coats of Weathershield paint? I got a quote from a painter who said he would have to do 4 coats of paint after sanding (1 oil based, 1 water based, 2 top coats... it seems very extreme and cheaper to just re-clad the house). Thanks so much in advanced for you advise. Tace
If the stain is only thin, I wouldn't sand it heavy. Just remove the loose areas, apply the oil undercoat with a brush,give it a light hand sand to smooth it out with 120 grit sandpaper then two coats of weathershield, once you sand the undercoat its easy to apply the top coats, so much easier and cheaper than replacing boards
Is it really 'Cedar', or is it Cyprus? Big difference. Cedar is soft and you can dent it with your fingernail. Be really careful about sanding it or you will dig big holes in it. If it's cypress, then attack at will. 😁😁
A paint stripper will just take off the paint, you will still need to sand after that, so much more extra costs for no benifet. As long as the paint under is sound its good to paint on top and the sander is used to find the loose paint and prepare the surface. Sander is much better and more efficient.
Thanks for your video mate. I’m about to repaint my daughter’s house only the paint is flaking pretty badly. What number grit would you recommend to start and finish with please.
hi, great video got a 1960 weatherboard with plenty layers of paint, would you recommend a paint shaver or just sanding it down with a vacumn attached to it as close to neighbours
Assuming its lead, there are no shortcuts, I am perhaps thinking wet sanding is the go. There are grinders available now as below ebay using water to stop dust. www.ebay.com.au/itm/362459028378 All you need to do is catch the contaminated water using an old gutter screwed to the bottom of the wall, and buckets attached to catch the lead particles,the solids fall to the bottom and fresh water runs off. It gives no dust,safe for you and neighbours
You do not need to use an oil based undercoat on hardwood timber in these situations, oil based undercoat has its magical purposes but not in this instance.
I have festool ro125 sanders / and a 115 grinder that attached to festool hepa dust extractor. There is an alternate wet sanding as well,similar system but water sanders, you need to catch this water with a filter system.
Ah, interesting. I'm going to buy a Makita 125mm grinder with dust hood. I've got a Makita H class vac that should do the job with a fleece bag. I know you're meant to use a H class vac, but I'm only doing one house...my house.
That's about a 220m2 house , this one is good condition, no peeling and easy sanding so I try and sand one wall a day, wash it down the same day ready for paint next day.
FESTOOL Rotex RO150 geared sander is just as effective , safer but more expensive, Makita and Bosch also do a geared sander.also a fair bit safer with battery angle grinders. Peace.
I have both, and trust me, they aren't in the running with a grinder with sanding attachment . It's pathetic the amount of Money I spent on festool only to find they can easily be beaten with s much cheaper tool.
hello! I first sand, then remove the dust, then I make an antiseptic for wood, and 2 layers of oil or paint, I apply with a brush! both a log and a board! I in Russia earn for 1 square meter of turnkey work, my consumables and tools, the customer buys only paint and sealant and antiseptic! his material and I take $ 10 per square for the whole complex. How much does this work cost you? I pay the workers $ 7 for work per 1 square meter !!! I will be grateful if you answer !!!
Hi from Australia, hullo to Russia, first of all our climates are different, you have cold snow and we have hot heat. You are doing it perfectly correct, Antiseptic is for the mould which we don't have a problem with, only heat so oil is good for you but bad for us. Paying by square metre is very good business,it teaches workers to work harder for more money and they get better the more they do. Your income and unemployment is also different there to here, many lazy fussy fat painters here who won't do this work,its too dirty and hazardous for them, so we charge lots more becausewe can ,as much as $100 per square metre. Also many safety laws and fines for lead paint sanding. If your making money at $10 metre thats good and get yourself a good name, but if there are no competitors you could raise your price slowly as you are better known. Thank you for watching my videos
@@ThePa1nterhowto I do it really well and the people I hire, I motivate !!! and I teach to do it quickly and efficiently !!!! I polish with a 10-piece tool and remove the old paint with a soft metal brush !!! 👍
We use an antiseptic, not only against mold or mildew, but we also use it against coraeds and beetles !!! and we close the ends with liquid sealant !!! it turns out great !!! if the house has already been painted removes the old paint to the wood, it is very easy to do it with a brush from the metal! I would give a guarantee in your climate if the material was good for at least 15 years !!!!
Thank you very much for your answer !!! With respect!!! Please tell me, can you ask for this $ 100 as a private person or you need to have or represent a company? take $ 100 and pay tax or is it cash? Many thanks!!! I just have a lot of experience and I do the same job, and I plan to leave Russia forever and never come back !!!! 💥 Work and live in my beloved Australia !! ♡
@@ThePa1nterhowto This profession and skill and experience may you need? Is it relevant? for example create your own company or work yourself! in demand? Thank you so much for your answer !!!!
A couple of other videos on sanding
7 inch sander
ruclips.net/video/uUObria0vnU/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/dxltu0mrA54/видео.html
I just gotta give you respect not just for your work but that you answer all of the commenters questions. Well done. 👍
Thanks for noticing
Thanks for your very informative videos! I have a Victorian weatherboard (Baltic pine) in Melbourne with 4 layers of paint, some of which are hard as a rock! So I bought a Bosch 125mm variable speed grinder and some Norton Blaze Rapid Strip discs, and it worked a treat! Boards are stopped back to bare wood, like brand-new. Note, not all strip discs are created equal. Some have coarse nylon and silica carbide fibres, some have fine fibres. I was nearly at my wits end the other week when I started stripping my boards manually with a paint scraper (my elbows are still recovering!). Then, I tried a Festool Roxtex, which does a beautiful job but waaay too slow. So after some googling I was amazed to see you using a grinder, and now I just wish I’d seen your video earlier! Thanks again.
Thanks for commenting, nothing beats the grinder with a sanding head, not possible if your sanding lead paint due to safety issues. Im glad you got it sorted.
Hey mate what happens if you have lead paint and sand like this? What are some other options for getting lead paint off weather boards safely? Cheers
@@sammtamm stripper
@@sammtamm dustless blasting, i.e. soda, sand, glass etc. but you gotta put geofab down everywhere to catch all the run off.
I love those hardwood weatherboards, i have seen them haven't been painted for 50 years and still sound and no rot.
This was my own place so I didn't go overboard but yes very sound building,they dont make wood like that now.
Please make more content I’ve been watching all of your videos for the past two months I love watching you paint and you have such helpful tips I am painting Contractor that works solo also. I am in Canada but had a friend just go to aus They pick me up some monarch brushes love your content keep posting
Thanks mate, I appreciate your kind feedback, I've been very slack lately but I hope to start again soon. 😀
@@ThePa1nterhowto that’s all good life happens! Look forward to new videos in the future happy painting!
Edited original comment to bring in line with reply below. And thanks ThePa1nter for taking the time to reply and your wise info much appreciated mate. As did burn out a 4" grinder sanding back my old weather board house round 25yrs ago. Which was probably a budget model as well. Not that should matter. Just that cooling fan is on end of drive shaft and 100% cooling @ full no load speed. If working hard and speeds drops to 50% then cooling drops to 25%. Hence body gets hot so best run up to full speed again to cool down in a couple of minutes, rather than sit for hours to cool down. So have recently found out online. But hey, was just quoted 14K to repaint so if did burn out could still come under consumables if DYI. But as replied below The Painter has been running his for up to 20yrs. So now confident to carry on. Also comments about kickback and neighbour said that ran his 7" sander at half noise after a kick back. But maybe wasn't operating right as well. Just that again, best cooling happens at full speed, obviously.
We have been using angle grinders for many years, continuously, hundreds of hours,the only thing that wears out eventually after a year or so is the brushes and they are replaceable. I have grinders at home 20 years old.
Thanks for posting. Given a lot of DIYers watching this, will be impressed with the speed of this method, you might want to draw attention to what can happen when that disc (which is pretty slim) gets pinched by the siding or in any small gap - very serious kick back, enough to force the grinder out of your hand and send it spinning in your direction. That disc is spinning at anything up to 11,000 rpm, if it does get caught, it is impossible to hold onto the tool. And yes, I used to use an angle grinder in this way, and after two near misses decided to try out other methods.
I guess you're well experienced with this method, and know to avoid situations where this can arise, but less experienced users wouldn't know. You've never had kick back using this method?
Do you do anything to the surface before using this method? I'm guessing the discs are zirconium?
Great subject to bring up, if you hold your grinder the wrong way it can kick back but if you watch and follow the way im holding the grinder,the grinder only spins one way and that's the secret. Its impossible to jam,in fact it will slow the grinder right down if it gets caught.Ive been sanding this method for 40 years,only once did I have a problem when I was sanding fazia above my face when it caught and I have several scars on my cheek from it.
I have a couple of other videos that show the sanding as well.
@@ThePa1nterhowtoThanks I think so too. I've seen the other videos, my point is you may have perfected a way of handling it such that it's 'impossible to jam' but that's something it would be a good idea to post a video about. Personally I'm still unclear having watched your videos very carefully and reading your explanation above, how your method completely removes the possibility of the grinder jamming. The fact is whichever way you cut it, if the wheel is caught or pinched (such that it can't turn anymore), it doesn't just slow down, it stops suddenly hence kickback. Particularly a grinder like this, which I'm assuming is spinning anything between 8,000 and 11,000 rpm; doesn't have variable speed; and doesn't have a safety cut out when the wheel is jammed?
Without you clearly demonstrating how you reckon this can be removed as a risk to the user, you're going to have your viewers think there's nothing to this and thereby setting them up for a fall - no?
Still interested if you do anything to the surface before you begin sanding? and whether the Norton disc is zirconium?
I once used a huge grinder in this way and it kicked back and hit me in the stomach and kicked me off the ladder onto my back on the lawn. Got a real fright and used the smaller grinder, and more carefully since that experience
@@jaynz247 Looks like you had a lucky escape. Even the smaller grinders need to be treated with a great deal of respect. In terms of faster sanding - faster than using a Festool Rotex in geared mode, there are far safer and almost equivalent systems, which also provide an opportunity to extract the dust produced - better for you (even working oustide you're breathing some of that dust in, without the proper equipment), and better for the environment: particularly where you're removing many layers of paint, some of which contain lead.
Not sure what the laws are in Australia, and as far as I know not much in the way of legislation in UK, but from what I know from guys in the U.S. the rules are pretty strict about controlling hazardous by products of reno work.
Yeah it's great to rip through linear feet of 30/40 year layers of old paint systems - but on so many other levels this really is old school gone badly wrong.
Hiya old mate. 50's house here and about to start sanding, May I ask, What grit paper do you use?
Brilliant video thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Just wondering what wattage/model is the Makita 5" grinder you're using here? Also is that just the 115mm rubber sanding pad on it too. Cheers.
Its just the standard 4" grinder with a 5" rubber pad, you can use either 4" or 5" grinder, smaller the better, faster the better
What was the cutting/sanding head attachment used?
They are just a universal sanding kit that can be purchased for most grinders and sanders,
Hi, great video. Would you paint with a primer first then two top coats? Or can you use exterior paint that has primer in it? Cheers
You can just put your first coat on with your exterior paint, putty, prep and hand sand 180 grit sandpaper till smooth. Add two more coats of the exterior paint. Or you could use oil based primer but nowadays there is no need. It will still be perfect in 10 years time with all exterior paints.
@@ThePa1nterhowto but if you say 3 coats and you already have some undercoat, why not that then 2 top coats...? Seems more logical to me... being a painter... and the fact that the 3 in 1 sticks better than top coats on anything... Just saying... but the angle grinder is the biz!
Just curious whether you've left swirl marks in the boards or existing coats? They are usually seen from an angle when the finished coats have been applied...
All hardwood weatherboards are cut origional with a circular saw and come with circular cut marks,even at a hundred year old wood. I personally don't leave marks that can be seen through the top coats but I do on purpose have fine swirl marks for paint adhesion,even on my floors that I sand, different to deep grind marks left by amateurs that sand.
Hi there, looking for some advice. I have bought a 30yr old cedar cladded house which has never been looked after, so only ever stained once. The sun has slowly started to burn the timber and fade. What sander would you advise me to use? You also mentioned Weathershield paint. Would I have to paint an oil based primer first? Then 2 coats of Weathershield paint? I got a quote from a painter who said he would have to do 4 coats of paint after sanding (1 oil based, 1 water based, 2 top coats... it seems very extreme and cheaper to just re-clad the house). Thanks so much in advanced for you advise. Tace
If the stain is only thin, I wouldn't sand it heavy. Just remove the loose areas, apply the oil undercoat with a brush,give it a light hand sand to smooth it out with 120 grit sandpaper then two coats of weathershield, once you sand the undercoat its easy to apply the top coats, so much easier and cheaper than replacing boards
Is it really 'Cedar', or is it Cyprus? Big difference. Cedar is soft and you can dent it with your fingernail. Be really careful about sanding it or you will dig big holes in it.
If it's cypress, then attack at will. 😁😁
Do you sand under the laps?
Hi there. Why choose to sand when you could use a paint stripper? Do you recommend one or the other ?
A paint stripper will just take off the paint, you will still need to sand after that, so much more extra costs for no benifet. As long as the paint under is sound its good to paint on top and the sander is used to find the loose paint and prepare the surface. Sander is much better and more efficient.
Thanks for your video mate. I’m about to repaint my daughter’s house only the paint is flaking pretty badly. What number grit would you recommend to start and finish with please.
Have you used paint eater from wagner to remove exterior paint?
No ,i have seen them work but never tried one. The benifets would be no disc clog up but damage to the wood could be a problem
hi, great video
got a 1960 weatherboard with plenty layers of paint, would you recommend a paint shaver or just sanding it down with a vacumn attached to it as close to neighbours
Assuming its lead, there are no shortcuts, I am perhaps thinking wet sanding is the go. There are grinders available now as below ebay using water to stop dust.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/362459028378
All you need to do is catch the contaminated water using an old gutter screwed to the bottom of the wall, and buckets attached to catch the lead particles,the solids fall to the bottom and fresh water runs off. It gives no dust,safe for you and neighbours
@@ThePa1nterhowto thanks , you a legend of info , appreciate
What kind of sanding disk are you using? Would a flap disk work?
I'm using a 36 Grit norzon disk because I'm experienced. You could use a flap disc, but I find they aren't flexible enough but easiest for a beginner
Hi,mate could please add a link to the sanding discs you used …
Diablo flap pad disc at home depot
Much quicker with the grinder than rotex. Do you caulk the laps?
Blute72 Yes much quicker, no never caulk under the weather boards,they need to move
Lots of painters are caulking the laps now. I agree it looks better but I think it might lead to problems down the track
SP Bygga What happens is the boards move and leave unsightly beads of gaps showing,only way to fix it is cut it back and repaint.
Is grinder still the best tool to remove exterior paint?
In my opinion, absaloutly no doubt
What grit sanding disc are you using
Most likely a 36 grit blue norzon disc
If your going to all the effort of sanding, shouldn't you be using a slow drying oil based primer so the paint actually lasts?
You do not need to use an oil based undercoat on hardwood timber in these situations, oil based undercoat has its magical purposes but not in this instance.
Wow I am flabbergast!
Thank you
what is the name of that grinder and the sander please?
They are Makita brand, 5" grinder with sanding kit with 24 grit norzon blue discs
Are they the flap type of disc?
@@hamishleiper1880 No ,just a Norton Norzon Fibre Disc Zirconia Aluminium Fibre Disc 24 Grit, "Search on google"
What's the procedure for lead paint?
I have festool ro125 sanders / and a 115 grinder that attached to festool hepa dust extractor.
There is an alternate wet sanding as well,similar system but water sanders, you need to catch this water with a filter system.
Ah, interesting. I'm going to buy a Makita 125mm grinder with dust hood. I've got a Makita H class vac that should do the job with a fleece bag. I know you're meant to use a H class vac, but I'm only doing one house...my house.
@@ashleymalamute Thats good, make sure you protect yourself and others from any dust,keep children and dogs away until after you hose down
Correction: I've got an M-Class vac. Surely with a fleece liner it will suffice? Most of the paint will flake off anyway, it's that buggered.
@@ashleymalamute I can't see a problem if your sanding outside,its your own house ,your taking adequate precautions,
Hi mate on a house that size roughly how much time would it take to prep and paint the whole exterior?
That's about a 220m2 house , this one is good condition, no peeling and easy sanding so I try and sand one wall a day, wash it down the same day ready for paint next day.
FESTOOL Rotex RO150 geared sander is just as effective , safer but more expensive, Makita and Bosch also do a geared sander.also a fair bit safer with battery angle grinders.
Peace.
I have both, and trust me, they aren't in the running with a grinder with sanding attachment . It's pathetic the amount of Money I spent on festool only to find they can easily be beaten with s much cheaper tool.
@ThePa1nter cheers..I will give it a try..
@andrewverran3498 you said Festool is just as effective yet you've never tried?!
Prob been a few decades since that had a coat
The previous owner did a makeover in the 80's so yes probably 25 years but the good thing is its just acrylic on top. 👍
My you uesing a sanding machine
hello! I first sand, then remove the dust, then I make an antiseptic for wood, and 2 layers of oil or paint, I apply with a brush! both a log and a board! I in Russia earn for 1 square meter of turnkey work, my consumables and tools, the customer buys only paint and sealant and antiseptic! his material and I take $ 10 per square for the whole complex. How much does this work cost you? I pay the workers $ 7 for work per 1 square meter !!! I will be grateful if you answer !!!
Hi from Australia, hullo to Russia, first of all our climates are different, you have cold snow and we have hot heat. You are doing it perfectly correct, Antiseptic is for the mould which we don't have a problem with, only heat so oil is good for you but bad for us. Paying by square metre is very good business,it teaches workers to work harder for more money and they get better the more they do. Your income and unemployment is also different there to here, many lazy fussy fat painters here who won't do this work,its too dirty and hazardous for them, so we charge lots more becausewe can ,as much as $100 per square metre. Also many safety laws and fines for lead paint sanding. If your making money at $10 metre thats good and get yourself a good name, but if there are no competitors you could raise your price slowly as you are better known. Thank you for watching my videos
@@ThePa1nterhowto I do it really well and the people I hire, I motivate !!! and I teach to do it quickly and efficiently !!!! I polish with a 10-piece tool and remove the old paint with a soft metal brush !!! 👍
We use an antiseptic, not only against mold or mildew, but we also use it against coraeds and beetles !!! and we close the ends with liquid sealant !!! it turns out great !!! if the house has already been painted removes the old paint to the wood, it is very easy to do it with a brush from the metal! I would give a guarantee in your climate if the material was good for at least 15 years !!!!
Thank you very much for your answer !!! With respect!!! Please tell me, can you ask for this $ 100 as a private person or you need to have or represent a company? take $ 100 and pay tax or is it cash? Many thanks!!! I just have a lot of experience and I do the same job, and I plan to leave Russia forever and never come back !!!! 💥 Work and live in my beloved Australia !! ♡
@@ThePa1nterhowto This profession and skill and experience may you need? Is it relevant? for example create your own company or work yourself! in demand? Thank you so much for your answer !!!!
Piensa 😂q esta que es un carro 🚘 😅
Pero de madera 😅
Same principle