It was a short in the wiring harness. This whole problem started after the electric fan burned out. When that happened, one of the fan wires got hot enough to melt a few wires inside the harness in the area where the harness ran under the left bottom side of the radiator. From the outside the harness looked fine. But, if turned on the key, got no bus, get under the car and grab the harness and move it around, instantly the no bus disappeared and the motor would start.
For two years I've been battling this same exact problem. Thank God I found your video. I swear I thought I was alone and most people just couldn't understand. You don't know how many times I've heard "Why don't you just put it in a shop". For starters, once I buy a vehicle, it will never see a shop again, and I could do exactly what a shop would do, plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, Crank Position sensor etc. Minus the ridiculous labor rate a shop would charge. What always drove me crazy was hearing a solution, but it wouldn't make sense. I could R&R any part on my truck. But I just refused to do that if it don't make sense. In other words, I always would ask myself How would a ambient weather increase cause a certain part to malfunction and cause a crank no start condition. I've yet to find that answer, but I now at least have a few good paths that make sense to me. My key ignition has always been suspect as it's been flaky as long as I owned the truck. Also My aftermarket stereo has kinda been suspect mainly because the dash was damaged many moons ago when replacing the heater core. So the dash that holds that stereo is not very secure. But my gut feeling what I've always had but never heard other people with common experiences, is the wiring harness. Unlike frying the wires to the fan. Many years ago I lost my front left wheel well bulkhead splash guard. Living in California, where it seems were normally in drought mode, I didn't think much about it. But after reading through some comments it got me thinking and it kinda makes sense. I looked at my harness by the fuse box for a quick inspection and I quickly realized, water has been getting up in there because the harness is definitely weathered and it wouldn't surprise me if there isn't some intermittent corrosion going on around the harness close to the fuse box. Acting like a fried wire or relay, but different as corrosion or short being the problem. At least I feel like I'm on a good path that makes sense. I'm sure Allot of people like myself don't care to voyage down this rabbit hole. Make no mistake, this is a rabbit hole of the worst kind. If I find a solution, I'll definitely post it. Thanks to all that shared! Ralph 2000 Dodge Ram 5.9l 298K original miles⁴
Recently a friend seen my video and was telling me about a situation he had with a early 2000s Dodge pickup truck. Was having similar issues with the vehicle shutting down. He did the normal run down of all the sensors and visual wiring checks and found nothing wrong. He contacted a friend of his who worked for many years as a mechanic at a dealership and he was told to "check the harness". His exact words were "I mean really check the harness, look for cracks, corrosion and other flaws". So, my my friend did just that. It was winter time and he had a lot of time on his hands and he pulled the harness from the truck and took it in the house. He and his wife went over every inch of the harness and found 1 wire that was cracked. I should say the outer coating was cracked but, the wire inside was in one piece. However, after deciding to repair that section, upon cutting the wire they found massive corrosion inside the wire. Apparently, the wire had cracked and moisture leaked in and traveled down the inside of the wire coating. This then made him want to re-check the whole harness again. Eventually, he found two more similar spots. He also found corrosion inside of a few pin connections. In the end he never knew which spot was causing the problem. He put the harness back in and the engine fired up and has run fine to this day. The takeaway here is; if you think you looked close and you still can't find the problem "look really close". With that in mind many people don't have the resources or the time to do in depth searching and give up when all that is causing the problem is something as simple as a cracked wire, corrosion or a short. In the case of my friend's story he said the problem would have never been found if the harness wasn't removed from the truck.
I have a 2000 Django 5.9 the just no bussed on me, spent hours trying to diagnose to no avail. Going to try this today, hope it works. Thanks for sharing.
@@debramartin9396 im say pcm or bad ground because a 3 sec gens i hav gad tge some issue it turned out to be loss of ground to the relays so the pcm would cut out from time to time and fuel pump relays burned out after a day not always pcms on dodges
I start counting to 180 seconds then start, 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 lariat thank you very much, they used to make pretty good trucks back in the day, now the corporation shit's the bed, FIAT owns them now, "yea FIAT" I can't tell you how tired one's arm gets waving people around while saying sorry, women can get nasty, however the men always sympathies, because we know !! I would even get the occasional "Hey buddy you need a push" I'd just smile and say "no thanks It'll be good in 3 minutes, its just a dodge thing ". There is a trick however that will tell you if it is in fact the pcm, get it to stall, pop the hood, get a wrench, and lightly rake the connectors of the pcm with the handle of the wrench back and forth the way moe slaps larry and curly, remember with the key still on, then go back and check to see if the no buss and check engine lights have all gone off, if not, repeat the puddin head slap. If it's an intermittent and quietly stalls as if god just turned the key off for no friggin reason then 100% pcm, if it sputters, lurches, low idle, smells like gas, runs peppy one minute then feels like your towing a macy's day parade float the next, then sensor problem. despair not brethren's once it's fixed and I know that you will for it is your mission to fix that pile of crap, WHY you may ask? because we're not going give dodge the satisfaction of duping us into an American equivalent of the U-go, "google it" and I can tell you that once you have fixed your Dodge It will feel as if you'v just given birth to the wolds biggest turd, AAAAAAAAAAH !
Lmao... too funny to not be a laughing matter, to say the least! My odometer doesn't stop blinking tho... I'm lost... I'm a carpenter for crying out loud. I bought my 98 Dakota 5.2l 5 yrs ago and have not had 1 trip in it yet. I have since then became a half cocked electrician (rewired the whole kit-N-Kaboodle from headlights to the fuel pump) due to the original owner throwing in the towel on the electrical run-a-muk fail. Then after few years of sitting at 141,000 miles (heavy duty 4x4, completely loaded with everything Dodge had available to put in it, upgraded the whole electrical system, yada-yada- Yada! ). Another person bought it and chased the issues too and upgraded the stereo, Amp, speakers, and instead of buying the adapters required to new fog lights, stereo, tow components, New Viper alarm system, etc, they tapped into the wiring at every point connecting necessary to overhaul the whole shebang AND left the old harnesses and wiring flopping around ×while the wires deleted or kaput became conjoined and taped off! After a few grand, they left it parked a few more years where they sold it to a young buck that came behind them to add another layer of harnesses and MORE conjoined (now triplets) and tapping, they gave up too! After 5 years in a field, I bought it and it had EVERY SINGLE RECEIPT from many purchased, even including the original ZCar lot window sticker that was on it when the original owner bought it. They lived 1 County away from the FACTORY that it was built at and it showed that the owner bought it at stock plain Jane and the car lot SENT IT BACK to the factory to have it built to suit to its MAXIMUM AWESOM! Even the paint was redone to the most insane purple color that has 6 names in the true color! It has metallic, pearl, sparkles.... geese already! But what I found out was the issues the 2nd h 3rd owners had was that due to the factory sending it out originally as a bare stock 2 wheel drive base & no a.c. to boot, the VIN NUMBER WAS SET AS A SIMPLISTIC BASE MODEL AND THEY NEVER TOOK THE TIME TO READ OVER EVERYTHING THAT WAS INSIDE THE FACTORY BOOK PLASTIC CASE INSIDE THE GLOVEBOX! IT WAS ALL FOLDED AND STUCK TOGETHER! So they were pounding money and time into trust of the parts the vin # showed to have needed to use! The alternator was too small and the battery was the lean 650... if I hadn't read the barely legible stuck all folded into a playing card sizes drive out window sticker, I would never had known anything either! So, thank God for the absolute miracle of OCD Filling and hoarding of the og owner! What a story... unbelievable if I was told it!
So, I'm having the exact symptoms that you have going on here. This is the only video I have found that shows anything about the odometer blinking like that... BUT...BUT... MY ODOMETER DOESNT STOP BLINKING... EVER! No matter the time frame I've let it sit. Otherwise, the exact actions that yours showed is spot on! Sooo... no bus doesn't come up... just blink on & on! Computer? Please hellllp me if u can!
I wish I had an instant answer. However, I'm not an expert on this kind of stuff. I'm just the guy that posted a video about it. And I did learn a lot about it along the way but again, i'm still not an expert on this no bus issue. If you haven't already, I would ask that you go and read the description box for this video. I posted an update to the video in the description box. Essentially, the no bus issue can take on many forms.
Once you install the new PCM do a Hard reset(Connect the positive and negative for a few minutes I worked for Dodge when these things were new,I currently own a "98 4x4 the (97-98 are Totally different from any other year),99 shares some of the problems. Anyway after waiting for a bit say 20 min Just to be safe, Ive seen some of the craziest things happen working for the Dealership as a Tech, hook em back up, this basically this will reset you BCM, PCM, TIPM and it kinda syncs if you will the whole car back together. What I wouldn't give to get rid of the factory alarm mine is acting up again, if you use the drivers door to unlock it the alarm goes off, Ive replaced all parts all the major locks to that system and it still does it, I still have the Dealer Manual to it and have literally gone step by step and all checks out. From the factory there is a cover that goes over the Computer in the engine bay to protect it from heat and trash but during set up a lot of techs toss em in the trash ensuring there will be work coming in down the road, that s like them telling us to reflash the computer so you would drive 7500 with the break in oil(what was left)still in your engine, it was black water and liquid metal just pouring out the drain plug and they all got a kick out of it cheering that's gold! or deliberately putting bad wheel bearings in a NEW vehicle just so it would come back for more work, I ended up quitting and went to work for myself until I became disabled. It sucks there are so many crooked shops.
Hi Ray, hey thanks for the advice. Still have this vehicle and it still has the same problem. I haven't been driving it too much, but I do start it faithfully every 4 days. We tried the hard reset a few times and there was no luck there. This whole problem started after a fan relay fried. After taking it to the shop on a tow truck it started fine (it had cooled down). The idiotic mechanics replaced the PCM without investigating further. There is actually a short in the wire harness somewhere between the relay box on the left fender and where the harness passes the fan (under the radiator). If I grab the harness and move it with my hand any number of crazy things happen. Like the fuel pump will start running without the motor running (still no bus) or sometimes moving the harness will instantly make the "no bus" go away and the car starts. Now that the weather is breaking I will have a chance to get at it and see where the short is.
Hey buddy, I have 2000 5.9 durango, sat for year. I'm getting fuel under engine, truck won't crack up and run longer then 5 seconds, any advice? Fuel pump, pump primary, are only thing I know for sure working...
I've been driving mine almost a year now it cuts out with a no bus on the dash. The problem is a computer heats up with a 5.9 liter in any cracks in solder joints separate with the heat. I squirt ice-cold water on the computer jump in and it immediately starts. I use about a 16 ounce bottle with the tiny hole in the lid. Works for me every time.
I just put a pcm in my '02 4.7L manual transmission Dakota after watching a couple diagnostic videos. Now I'm getting 'no bus' videos recommended. My little truck just shut off out of nowhere a few times (electrical stayed on, engine cut out). I wiggled the pcm connector- #1 I think- and heard relays click, so I unplugged all 3 connectors from the computer and blew them out with contact cleaner followed by compressed air, plus visual inspection around the confuzer and the fuse block for rubbed-through wiring or any signs of corrosion. Nada. Next time it stalled out on the highway, so I started checking wiring when it was in the faulted state. Easy enough since by this point, a week into the symptoms, all I had to do to get it to f@%# up was turn the key on and wait a few minutes. I found that both powers and both grounds for the pcm were intact, I had my 5-volt reference at the throttle position and coolant temp sensors, and most importantly my scope showed normal activity on the pci pin meaning the bus line couldn't be shorted or open like the message on the dash was indicating. 90-ish miles in on a new pcm, when I couldn't even get out of my neighborhood last week.
@@Tomato41866 Yes! I've gone a few thousand miles with no issues. If you're getting "no bus" on the dash, your order of testing/inspection should be something like this: 1.) Find a wiring diagram that shows power distribution and grounding for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Make sure it's for your exact vehicle (for example, my 4.7L 4x4 is wired different than the California 4.7L 4x4, and they're both different than the 4.7L 4x2). The old Haynes/Chilton manuals didn't have the computer-related wiring diagrams I needed, so I ended up taking a screenshot of a YT video showing the diagram for my truck. 2.) Visual inspection of wiring between pcm, its connectors and the fuse block (Doge calls it the power distribution center, oo la la), you're looking for damage to the wiring or that distinctive 'green death' from corroded copper wires. 3.) If your vehicle is similar to my Dakota, your pcm has two power feeds and two grounds, both need to be intact (not more than 0.2 ohm resistance on the grounds, and full battery voltage on the feeds when the key is on) 4.) If power & ground are there, next you need to see if you have activity on the PCI bus line (the high-speed communication network that the "no bus" message is claiming is shorted or open, we need to see if that's true). You'll need an oscilloscope to see the data transfer across the line, with normal activity looking like this: _l''''l_l''''l_l''''l_____l''''l_l''''l_l''''l____ (square waves between 0-5V in little packets) and _abnormal_ activity looking like either like like a heartbeat, with irregular spikes and sloping lines instead of uniform, vertical lines between 0V and 5V (clean 'on'/'off' or '0'/'1' binary signals the computer can interpret) or a flat line at 0V __________. 5.) If you have those nice clean repeating square waves, you now know the CAN Bus is still up and the code on the dash is a lie, so now you just need to verify that you have 5V reference signals going from your sensors back to the confuzer. I chose the coolant temp. sensor and the throttle position sensor because they were easy to get to, jammed some T-pins in and saw nominal 5V (I think it was more like 4.5V or so, they're rarely exactly 5V but they need to be close) which means all the inputs to the computer are there. 6.) If you get this far, that means your pcm is getting all the right inputs: power, ground, communication from sensors and other modules in the network... congrats! You need a new confuzer. Got mine from Flashmasters for $375 (you'll get a 10% core charge back if you send them your old confuzer), they've been around a long time. If you're gonna tackle the diagnostics yourself, I'll be checking this comment thread in case you have any questions I might be able to answer. Good luck Thomas!!!
Yeah just checked this area thoroughly again today and there's no short in this area. All the wires are perfect the coating is not broken or cracked and the outer protective covering is good. I do remember seeing a video about a gentleman that lives in the Chicago area that had this problem.
Man that sucks. I found it by accident. Leaning over the engine I moved the harness and I heard the truck come alive just from moving the harness around
The wires going into the pcm. Same issues with 99 1500 ram. It dies when even while driving, at the light, usually it happens more so in the summer. But if you walk around to the 3 clips where the wires run into wiggles them, fuel pump comes on and the no bus is gone. I put white grease inside the connection, also seems to help. All dodges have this same issue.
Its a can bus problem. You have to hook up an oscilloscope to can hi and can low lines, turn the key on, and watch wave forms. They have to mirror each other. If the pattern is not correct, you unplug modules one at a time until wave form is normal
Did that. Local mechanic checked all modules several times and nothing wrong with modules. At this time it looks as if there is a short in the wire harness somewhere between the relay box (front left) and the PCM. When the no bus appears, if I move the wire harness in the area where it runs under the radiator all kinds if strange things happen. 1: the no buss disappears and the vehicle starts or 2: the no buss stays on and the fuel pump starts running without turning the key. This would make sense because this whole problem started right after the electric fan relay burned out... as in fried the relay and the wire going to the fan. Actually just started the vehicle today to move it... only waited 3 minutes.
If you lose a power or ground to the pcm, it is unlikely you could communicate with a scanner to it when you lose either or. Also, sounds suspicious when they say checked all the modules. Guess what? You cant check a module.. you can check powers and grounds to it... then the conclusion is the module. You wait intil car doesnt start, then unplug pcm and check powers and grounds to it then
@@mikesabin8568 all modules were checked by putting working modules in. The mechanic is a hard core Dodge guy. Every single module and all ground connection were checked, rechecked and checked again. And your right no testing can really be done when the system has no power and that is why we tested the system when it does have power. When the system has power there are no issues at all, none. But we have recently found that when there is no power "no buss" if the harness is moved in a certain area, the no bus goes away. There are other videos on YT where there is a short in the system same as mine. One guy has a video posted where the short was at the front of the left valve cover, and very similar in the cold weather his motor started without issue. We have put in other PCM and checked the BCM, connection behind the instrument panel, connections under the relay box and many more. Sadly I just haven't had the time to pull the harness to full inspect and run down the short.
Richard Smith Jr how many modules are on that bus? I would unplug them all, then i would ohm check the harness. After ohm checking the harness, i would stress the harness by putting an inline test bulb with a 15 amp fuse to check the harness under voltage stress
My last point is, I don’t kno how he checks power and ground. Perhaps he is good at it, perhaps he is not. For example, i can check a harness and see 12 volts with my meter... yet that is deceptive.. watch videos on the tool load pro to see what im talking about
I've been dealing with this exact scenario on my 99 dakota. Sent it to the shop and they said it was the fuse box shorted. I took it home and starting to think it's computer. Literally replaced every sensor and the problem is just getting more common as time goes on. Not a lot of information on this problem
Sorry to hear. After what I went through I truly feel for anyone having the "no bus" problem. The saddest part is that it is not limited to one thing, there are so many things that can cause the problem that it is a luckshot to find the problem quickly. It can be sensors, PCM, corrosion at a connection and the list goes on. I guess that is why this video has 58,000 views and counting.
I just bought a 2000 Dakota. Had several issues with electrical components. Finally decided to pull fuses and relays until I found the one that corrected my issues. In my case there is something wrong in the power lock circuit causing my gadget to not work, the dome light flickers, something around the passenger airbags chirps,... very strange. My guess is that if there is a short in the system, it can cause the computer to send false signals out to other components. Hope this helps.
Anything on the inside of the vehicle would most likely be controlled by the BCM (body control module) the issues in this video are related to the PCM (powertrain control module).
I have a 99 Dodge Dakota rt and all the gauges went down with the no bus came on but still has all the power and runs like a champ still but no gauges work
Sound like the bus system is working under the hood but, not inside. I would check the connection on the back of the instrument panel or the BCM (body control module). PCM controls under the hood and the BCM controls inside the vehicle.
After $1200+ new fuel pump, throttle body sensor, spark plugs and boots. And a no vehicle for a month. Took it back from the stumped mechanic and back to no bus. 2003 Dakota. Watched this video tried it tonight and it started the same way within minutes! Thank you, any other tips or updates on your vehicle would be helpful.
I ended up pulling my main relay that goes to the ECM computer and when I googled it on my end it said that I was having a bad connection to the battery but when I pulled the main relay that goes to the ECM computer it reset the no bus signal I haven't got it back in my vehicle ran for a good 30 minutes Don't know if it fixed my issue yet but I'm going to sure try throwing the information out there I hope it works for you guys
Turns out a lot of these ecu are bad around these years there always seems to be a communication break in the ecu itself and have to be replaced and reprogrammed to your vehicle’s vin then usually starts right up to read and clear codes
I have a 00 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L with the same exact issue. My truck stalls as soon as the engine gets up to temp especially on hot days it only stays running for about 30min. Then shuts off. I think it's the pcm because of the the no bus issue.
99 Durango 5.9L here same crap. Rewired and soldered new PCM harness clips. Each sensor getting the proper 5v. Put remanufactured PCM and although it ran awesome over 400 miles it did start to no bus again. I'm ready to just junk this pos. Really love these trucks but this one is getting to be too much of a headache
Update I fixed my problem simply by replacing the computer. When it comes to computer issues you might as well spend the money to get a brand new one. The place I got it from serves a lifetime warranty and it's tailored to my Vin so it's exact. Now she runs like a fkn champ! I also had to replace all the gaskets on the truck now that was a bitch. Looking to do a rebuild next and front suspension bushings are basically gone. I paid I think around $250 for my computer.
Its the exact problem I'm currently having. Noone can figure it out my gut says it's the pcu aswell just needs to be replaced. But what ended up fixing your truck? It's dejevu lol exact same symptoms
The answer to my fix can be found in the description box below the video. However, you need to know there could be any number of problems that cause "no bus".
I have a 99 5.2 starts runs but no cluster when first start all lights come on biut 30of running I get no bus and check engine but no codes will drive down Rd I have done the cluster test and they all will calibrate but then don't work when they are finished. No clue what to do now other than pull harness it all started after I changed heater core gages all worked for days afterwards then stopped. Would love to hear anything u have to put in on this project
Sorry about the late reply, I was away overseas. The no bus problem has a vast amount of possibilities. I'm no expert however, I would suggest as a starting point to check all engine sensors because they are the most likely and easiest to deal with. Crank position sensor being the usual problem. If not a sensor, now you move into the unknown. A bad connection, broken wire or corrosion on a connection. It could also be the PCM (computer). In the end my problem was a burned wire leading from the electric fan into the main harness.
My 01 dodge 1500 5.2 was doing the exact same thing and after running all kinds of test with meters and oscilloscope showing everything is fine i change the pcm anyways and it fixed it, in these types of trucks the pcm is a very common thing for the solder points in the pcm to heat up due to it being position and mounted next to the motor, this cause it to have the interment problem when it heats up the solder points break contact giving the no bus and when cools down it will work again, but sensors and shorts in the wiring will cause the same like on this video so be sure to check all that first, and make sure its good you can before you replace the pcm, a simple way is to unhook the sensors and see if the no bus goes away (remember the vehicle wont start with certain sensors unhooked even if no bus is gone) after if not a sensor i would check for shorts and broken wires that are crossing or hotwire touching the frame, and if still nothing i would go for the pcm replacement. Hope this helps if you having same problem thanks
Maybe this will help somebody. I had this problem on my 2002 dodge Dakota 4.7 liter. My truck would idle and die after 8 minutes and then it would crank no start for a long time. I cleaned the throttle body, changed TPS, IAC, no change. then I decided to leave the key in the "ON" position (with truck not on) and started wiggling the 3 connectors to the ECM. The middle connector must be where the fuel pump is connected to the ECM electrically because I heard the fuel pump engage which then I turned the ignition key to turn on the truck and it started. Maybe it's a bad connection between the middle connector to the ECM or a short. I am still working on it but I think I'm on to something.
I have the same problem I have a 2001dodge ram 1500 and still has nobus I looked for everything on the truck and it looks okay I don't know what to do more?
The best thing I can say is "look really close at wire connections on the wire harness." And when I say look close I mean look really close at everything. In the case of my situation it was a burnt wire in the middle of the wire bundle. A friend of mine had a problem with a Dodge RAM of this same era that would randomly shut off. He was a very knowledgeable professional mechanic. After weeks of trying everything he pulled the whole wire harness out of the engine bay and sat in his living room one night literally looking at all the connections. Then he noticed that some of the PCM connector pins had very fine amounts of that green powdery corrosion on them. He cleaned them and the truck never had a problem after that. He told me he had taken the PCM connection apart at least 4 or 5 times and never noticed it, until he had the harness in the house under good bright light. Now, I'm not saying to just go rip the harness out of your truck... But look at everything very close. Also check all your sensors. Crankshaft position sensor, cam sensor, idle air and so on. Aside from the PCM there is also a BCM (body control module). I'm a good mechanic but not a professional and all this advice comes from all the things I have learned from putting up this video and talking to people (on-line and in person) about the dreaded NOBUS problem. I hope you find the problem.
There's a orange wire from the harness that it's outside harness not hooked up on nothing I looked very close to all the wires everything looks okay I took it all the harness aport and that Oregon wire has glue in one end but the ground wire is all dirty I hope that its that ..?
@ChinoGarcia-gi7me yes, I forgot to mention "to check all ground wires." Sometimes ground connections look good but there not. If all else fails, it could be a bad PCM.
Same problem here friend. thanks for the sub, I did the same. If you figure it out please post a video of it. As soon as I have time I will make another attempt to figure it out. In the mean time I use two computers, when one gets hot and the truck stalls I pull over and swap it out. Also I only drive the truck locally and not on the highway. seams like there is a short causing the computer to get hot and trigger the shut off relay.👍👍
@Ryan Shepard I still haven't been able to really do anything with my Durango because of the winter weather. I still start it every three to four days and drive it a bit. When cold it starts in about 30 seconds to a minute. As soon as the weather breaks I want to look at it closer. It idles a little low sometimes and then other times it will do the racing idle (up & down), but never stalls. Still all in all this whole problem started when the electric fan relay fried. And when in "no bus" if I grab the wire harness in the area under the radiator area and move the wire harness around the power comes back to the system.
Your problem is different then mine. My Durango never dies once it is running. With this problem I once drove it for over 4 hours straight in 95 degree stop & go rush hour traffic and it never died. My problem is starting the damn thing.
I have a 2001 ram 1500 5.9 The truck will run perfect anywhere from 20 minutes to a couple hours sometimes even up to a week then randomly the truck will shut off no bus pops up then wait a minute the truck will start back up I can’t figure out the problem any ideas? Pretty much same issue as your having
If you are not familiar with the "No Bus" problem I would suggest starting with checking all sensors on the engine. Crank Position Sensor is where most mechanics will start. If you're lucky it is a sensor. However, the no bus issue can be many other things such as a problem somewhere in the wiring harness. It can be a cracked wire, a corroded connection and it may not always be detectable. It can all so me the PCM (computer). I am not an expert just a guy that made a video of what happened to me. In the end my problem was a burned wire leading from the electric fan into the main harness. In your situation it could be a bad connection... I'm just guessing.
I have a 1999 Dodge 1500 5.9 4x4 with 90k miles. I will get a no bus code on the odometer. Mine starts like this, while driving the I’ll get the abs light and lose the speedometer. Then lose all my gauges. But the truck will stay running and you can shut it off and restart it even with the no bus on the odometer. Any advice? Not to familiar with dodges. Also when I try to hook up a scanner it will not connect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I believe (from all the videos I have watched lol) that the problem you are describing is that you are losing the connection to the BCM (body control module) The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) connects to the BCM. The BCM controls all things about the body such as inside the vehicle.
I seen a video of a guy who had a Jeep and his problem was very much the same as yours. They claim it could sometimes be a bad connection behind the instrument panel.
@@richardsmithjr I'm running into the same problem right now none of my guages are working I'm getting the no bus light but my truck is starting just fine it starts normal no issues just my cluster is not working
@@jonathangeorge5630 This is different from my problem. But it sounds like you have a bad connection to the BCM (Body Control Module. The PCM (Powertrain Control Module controls everything under the hood. The BCM controls everything inside the car. I do not know everything about the BCM but I do know there (on my 2000 Durango) there is a connection behind the instrument panel. I removed mine a few times just to see if that was my problem, however for me that was not the problem. But for your problem it sounds like a bad connection with the BCM.
It was the craziest thing I ever seen. Once it started it would stay running and never stalled. I drove it in this condition as my everyday vehicle for over a month or two. I didn't have the money to get another car so I was forced to drive it and it was a living hell. Waking up over an hour early just to start the car. And when I was done work I had to sit until it started. Funny thing is, it always started... eventually.
Same problem here with Dodge Ram 1500 3.9 V6 cargo van. Are you still having this problem? Really would like to know what's wrong. I changed out my fuel pump, and since I had to disconnect the battery to do so I can't seem to run any codes without driving 50 plus miles. Tried the other day when it finally started and only made it around the block before stalling out at intersection. Had no one to help plus it. Got lucky and finally fired back up.
@@johnjones7635 sorry for the confusion Reckless Pixel is my other channel, so I am the guy with this dreaded Durango. I have not fixed mine yet (no time). But I have determined my problem is in the wiring harness. Between the electric fan and the relay box. My problem started when my fan shorted and seared wires inside the harness. This was noticed after I made this video. Upon looking at the wires with a quick glance they look fine but there's a problem there somewhere.
It was a short in the wiring harness. This whole problem started after the electric fan burned out. When that happened, one of the fan wires got hot enough to melt a few wires inside the harness in the area where the harness ran under the left bottom side of the radiator. From the outside the harness looked fine. But, if turned on the key, got no bus, get under the car and grab the harness and move it around, instantly the no bus disappeared and the motor would start.
Hi Richard Smith Jr, I have the exact same problem with my 2003 Dodge Durango and I was wondering did you find what's the problem and did you fixed it ?
Check for a shorted wire in the harness under the fuse block. There is a section of the harness that runs under the block and they are bad about shorting there.
@@donniediggs6160 I have taken that box out twice and I haven't really found anything that looked bad, other that the wire leading to the electric fan relay. The fan relay wire is discolored because the relay has fried twice. Second time it fried is when this whole mess started.
@@donniediggs6160 Now that the weather is getting warmer I will be getting back to finding where the short actually is. And I'll take that fuse box out once more. lol
My girlfriend's Duragno has the No Bus on the odometer but it will crank and run. It will not idle though. As long as I keep my foot on the throttle it will not die. This No Bus thing seems like it is caused by a lot of things! It is hard to pinpoint.
Yes it can be caused by several things. Mine is most likely a short in my wiring harness. If the motor runs with the "no bus" you may have a problem with a short inside the vehicle.
@@richardsmithjr I just watched one where a guy says it can come up if you have an aftermarker radio. Sure enough it does have that. So I am thinking that is the cause of that. I will have to look into it a little more though.
As for the rough idle on your girlfriend's Durango that sounds like a sensor, most likely idle/air, but really could be anything. Check the coil and coil wire very closely. Also check all the normal stuff like fuses and relays. On my Durango the whole problem started when the Fan relay fried (literally), so I believe somewhere I have a burned wire/s
My 2003 1500 van just did this!! While I was swearing, my wife went on the interweb and there was your video!!! Please send address for Christmas card!!😅😎
@@richardsmithjr well it got me home! There was good info in the comments on your video. Guy next door to my buddy shop is pretty sharp with these things, I will check with him tomorrow. Replaced the ecm years back because of no spark. They have more Vans at the salvage yard. 😅
I got no bus it seems to me that all no bus issues. Are different and don't get me wrong all the videos and googling. I've done were all informative. Still. Were I track my problems. Is totally different. F ucking dodge. Still I love my truck I'm not posting video but if some one has a question FEEL free. My issues have been wiring harness. The coating on wire cane off in so far seven spots and wires touched. Keep in mind.y truck has never failed to start
Yes, yes & yes, I totally agree. I personally know 3 people who have had wire coating problems on truck harnesses. My friend Jason actually had his whole harness on his livingroom floor for two days before he found the problem. Not only does the coating fall off, even worse sometimes it "micro cracks" and corrosion starts inside and unless you look very, very close you'd never notice it.
99 Durango 5.2 4wd. I'm having similar issues. Truck runs fine for 25-30 minutes then it will stall and won't start until it cools off for about 30 minutes. I tried squirting some starter fluid in and it fires up for a few seconds. Made me think the fuel pump or fuel filter was bad. So I replaced them. That didn't solve the issue. Still stalls after 25-30 minutes of driving. I've never paid a mechanic to fix an engine issue and never will. I have had transmissions replaced and alignments,tires and balancing done. My next step is a crank position sensor, then cam position sensor, then ecm. I've already checked the single coil.There are no codes on the scanner tool and I don't get a no buss message on the odometer. If its not one of those things. I'll probly junk it or just use it in town.
its the coil driver inside the pcm its not the shut down relay you need to run a better ground wire to the relay box under the hood and replace the pcm you can fix pcm yourself if you can solder
I know how to fix these problems. Two things you need. First off, you need a scope. No scope, probably not going to figure this out... Secondly, a wiring diagram for computer data lines... Hook scope to pci line and watch scope with key on.... should see a 0-7 volt square wave. Your car will not because of the problem.Your wave pattern will look bad... Then you disconnect each module one at a time on the pci bus until your square wave looks normal... that indicates you have disconnected the bad module that is pulling the pci bus line down. Problem solved. If you don't have a scope or a wiring diagram you will not figure this out. Also, a million shops don't understand this problem. This crap is my specialty
Mike... any pointers? I’ve been killing myself on my 2001 Ram 1500 - it’s driving me crazy and draining my bank account. I’ve probably spent 30+ hours trying to find the problem... any ideas, help, guidance would be awesome!
Bryan Nelms you have to have a wiring schematic for your car. Also, establish if you have a can bus problem or not. So you have scanned the car and cannot talk to any module? I then try a second scanner to see if its just the scanner to verify
Seen a guy on here fix his by replacing a faulty transmission shift solenoid, the old one was made of plastic and it would vibrate loose causing no ground and a no bus
As I have learned there are so many things that can cause the "No Bus" problem. Most no bus problems the vehicle will never start at all and then there are others who get no bus and the vehicle starts and runs fine but, they have no power to the gauges. In conclusion it is a problem that literally has to be traced looking at one thing at a time. Most mechanics start with looking at the sensors with the Crankshaft Position sensor being the number one culprit. In my case that you see here in this video it was a melted wire in the wire harness that was caused when the electric fan burned out (see notes in video description). We checked, rechecked and checked again every possible sensor, connection, ground point and so on. Even replaced the PCM with a new one. When that didn't work we tried a good PCM from another Durango... either way in the end it was a bad wire in the harness.
The only problem with this particular situation is that it’s not turning on. Going on 2 hrs. This happened yesterday and I managed to get home. Today not even close.
@@JoseCastillo-ye7je there are many different scenarios to the "no bud" problem. Many times the engine just won't start at all. My situation was rather unique (a short in the wire harness under the radiator area) and that's why I made the video. To my knowledge from what I learned, the place to start is the crank position sensor. Many people say that is the most likely culprit.. And then if that is not the problem you need to run down and check the other sensors on the engine.
@@JoseCastillo-ye7je You can also read through the many comments on this video to get some ideas as well. But keep in mind it's RUclips and there are several comments that people have left that are just totally idiotic lol
Did you ever find out how to fix it because I have the same happened on A diesel truck which it has glow plugs light comes on please wait I can crank it after that light but the whole time and no bus is on please tell how you fix it
My recommendation is to check the obvious first. Check all sensors starting with the crank position sensor. This is one of the usual suspects. Check all engine sensors. Then go for the wiring harness and check it close as well as ground connections and PCM connections. After you check all connections, check them again. Crazy I know, but these Dodges have wiring that will crack or split and let corrosion get it. Also, check all connectors for corrosion. If you replace the PCM, make sure it is programmed for your specific vehicle/engine.
Okay so what happened to me was it was normal then after work I noticed all the symbols light up and the Gages wasn’t working same as in this video the no bus shows up. Well after some research I found that is the computer can’t communicate so I let my car die by leaving the lights on and drained the power all of it tell it was a dead start then I jumped it with my buddies car after awhile it started and the no bus was there but then it started turning off the symbols and the no bus went back to the miles and the next time I started my Durango it was completely normal again! So Rest your car by draining the power that will rest it. Hope this helps
All ready tried that. There are already a few videos on YT. I removed the battery and tied both the negative and positive terminals together with a zip tie for 48 hours... did nothing for me. We even tried it again a few weeks later lol... still did nothing. For some people a "reset" might work and I would agree it is worth a try.
Big plug in fuse box underhood with screw in middle screw has about 3/4 inch of threads cant tighten plug is comunication between pcm's still runs change screw and tighten fixed
@@dimimerhie2633 if it is working after knocking on it, it could be a loose connection or a corroded connection. It will be a matter of hunting down the problem.
@@dimimerhie2633 Before changing the PCM (computer) I would look at the connection going to the computer. I have heard of the pic connectors getting corroded. When checking connection you must be very thorough, I can't emphasize this enough. A friend of mine had similar problems and after checking connections three times discovered very fine corrosion in the pin connectors. Other things to look for are cracking on the outer wire coating. Think cracks let moisture get in and cause corrosion. Also, a loose ground wire or a ground that is connected to rust. Buying a new PCM can be costly. Also know the PCM has to be programed for your specific vehicle/motor combination.
Dam older thread, but good information. My 2000 just dies with the same symptoms. I do have the 5 volts. No bus on I/p Has code for iac for months, but ran. Have issue with cooling fan relay. Need to check inside power distribution box for damage. Have pcm on order and crank sensor. Any other ideas?
My problem all started when the electric fan shorted and burned the fan relay. Replaced the relay and awhile later it shorted again. This time the No Bus appeared and the motor shutdown. As soon as I pulled over and lifted the hood I could smell burnt wiring but found nothing. Then started this long process of checking all sensors an replacing the PCM and still having this problem you see in thus video. Turn the key... wait and sooner or later it will start and run perfectly. During all my searching on RUclips I found a video where a Durango had a very similar problem as mine. Turn the key and wait and in cold weather his Durango started right away. Mine, in cold weather would start in about 30 seconds. Finally I had time (I work a lot) I found a hidden short in the wire harness under the left side of the radiator, where the electric fan wire join the harness. The wires were partially melted and that was causing a partial short. When the key was turned on the wires would eventually make a connection and the no buss would disappear. This short was inside the harness. The outside of the harness looked perfect.
@@richardsmithjr Thanks. I’ll check the harness. I did smell the burning slightly. Have not tried to let is set with key on, And see what happens. I will try that tomorrow. Thanks
@@dalev1319 how I found out about leaving the key on was purely be accident. I had a mechanic install the PCM. Pick vehicle, started fine. Next morning started fine. Went to leave work gor lunch and when I tried to start I got no bus. I called the mechanic and while we were talking I had the key on. We talked about 8 minutes and all the sudden the no bus went out and I started the engine. From that moment on it always gave no bus before starting. Please, keep in mind the reason I made this video is because my "no bus" situation was very different than most. Most often when you get no bus your engine will not start at all. But, it is worth a shot to see if it works. Also, keep in mind that with mine when the no bus went out a second or two later the gauges powered up and then it would start. If I waited more than 10-15 seconds after the power up of the gauges the power would die and no bus came back.
Tap on your computer the board resistor is getting hot. I have seen it on several vehicles. Top on the computer and it will start. Tap again it shut off. Its a relay or resistor on the board. New level auto has videos on it.
@@robertetcitty5798 Will the fuel sending unit give a "no bus"? Never heard of that. Distributor is fine. No problems when getting hot at all. Drove for 5 hours in 95 degree heat, stop & go traffic, no problems at all.
I have a 2005 dodge magnum it’s reading NO BUS on my dashboard it runs and drives my windshield wipers don’t work or the radio my lights stay on my cluster doesn’t work my heat works tho I’m trying to figure out the issue
@@richardsmithjr Good night, mine turns off when it's hotter, but if it's warm it takes longer to turn off, normally when it turns off it takes 3 minutes to 5 minutes to turn on. Do you think it's the same problem?
I can give all kinds of information on it but the people I told you have videos on that stuff can show you better then me telling you like this. Both of those people can be contacted and help you out give them a try.
Coil pick up tested good and PCM was replaced. In fact all sensors were checked. It was a short in the wiring harness under the radiator area. The electric fan shorted and ever so lightly melted 3 wires.
I have Dodge Durango 2000 model, I suffer from no bus signal, I changed the ECM,petrol pump , and ignition coil that under the air filter box , and I still face the same issue .... any advice so I can solve that issue ??
@daylight_arrow given what you said you were already fixed I would start with the sensors. Start with crank position sensor and work your way around to the other sensors on the motor. There may be a sensor to shorting out the system.
The "No bus" is a complicated issue. There are so many things that can cause it to happen and therefore the symptoms are always different. I'm no expert on this. I'm just the guy that made this video to show what my problem was. You can read the update to my issue in the description box and you can check out the comment section for The symptoms and issues at other people i've had. All I can say is I wish you good luck.
I wish I could tell you exactly what's wrong with it however, there are so many variables that can give the "no bus signal." With that said; if you're experiencing a similar problem like I had in this video where you have to wait, it very well could be a short somewhere in the wiring. The longer the power is running through the system eventually the short makes a connection. That is what was going on in my situation. After this video was made I found that when my electric fan burned out it had light burnt a wire in the harness that was causing the my problem. The wire looked good on the outside but was damaged on the inside.
The computers in your car talk to each other using a bus. The bus is like a telephone line that all the computers use. If the bus goes bad for one computer, it goes bad for all the computers. With no bus, the computers can't get information from one another or information from the sensors. Without co-operation and communication many of the things in the car won't work, including the engine.
Dear fellows: When analyzing an electronics problem in your car, please consider all you are doing is counting with a healthy perfect electrical system ( battery, alternator, wiring, connectors, switches, and shiny perfect ground connections). What I imagine you are dealing with: a shorted rectifier diode, inside the alternator, will damage the battery. A damaged battery will upset operation in many modules. First things first. Dont pay attention to any computer codes until the car has a sound ELECTRICAL system, which is the platform for all computerized ELECTRONICS. I mean; take the alternator to the lab and test it for rated amps. Try to find a REAL battery ANALYZER in 2020 era of ignorants. If you can find one, make certain it is not internally shorted. If the mega stores won and you cant find a battery analyzer, buy a new one hoping the new one is not SHORTED ALSO. CUT OPEN battery primary wires. Sulfated blue o white talc is a good reason to discard the entire wire. Those wires should have terminals and those terminals (one eye connectors) should be shielded from atmophere to avoid generation of O3 the tri- oxigen known as ozone, a fast corrosion agent. Chassis / body /"alternator body" ground spots ( yes, those with female o male threads in the middle) should be silver shiny and covered with dielectric grease or better to avoid corrosion and ensure an enhanced electrical path. Reassemble. And you are ready for the Chrysler products, first step: take out the BCM computer and spray volatile contact cleaner and dry it with duster spray (almost freeze it). Then install / remove at least three times. Reinstall and re-assemble all and start the car. Usually voltages cause FI to inject economic amounts of fuel, more power, lower emissions, brighter front beams, transmission shifting great, and a lot of computer related " CODES" gone. If it keeps on the "no bus" indication on, it is a physical problem related to the bus circuit, not a basic electrical problem. If "Check Engine" is still on, the circuit to, or the sensor or an actuator generating the code, must be fixed first. All of this, as a general practice rule prior to any " ELECTRONICS" repairs. Victor Borges Automotive Electronics Technician ASE Certified Master Technician
I had to buy a brand new ECM computer from flash Masters and it cost me $385 to replace it and have it reprogrammed to my vehicle That's what took care of the no bus problem your ECM is bad
Not hardly the problem at all in my case. Like many who have viewed this video, you haven't taken the time to read the important updated information in the description box. Actually, replacing the PCM was the very first thing I did. I had the PCM programed at the dealer and the problem never changed. The reason for this video is to show "you can buy a new PCM" and still have the problem. I'm glad yours is fixed.
Well my 2001 Durango has the no bus how ever the car starts right away .. I don’t have to wait at all the thing here is that my headlights stays on (you can bearly notices) but enough to drain the battery … any help ?
If the motor will start it most likely isn't the PCM. It sounds like the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM controls all your inside switches. No guarantee but it's a good place to start.
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Was it the computer
It was a short in the wiring harness. This whole problem started after the electric fan burned out. When that happened, one of the fan wires got hot enough to melt a few wires inside the harness in the area where the harness ran under the left bottom side of the radiator. From the outside the harness looked fine. But, if turned on the key, got no bus, get under the car and grab the harness and move it around, instantly the no bus disappeared and the motor would start.
@@richardsmithjr q++
No compu. Problems TU power. Caga fiuses. Flogar. Tuerca. Del. Mein power fiuses. Afloga. Y vueve. Pretar. Car fix sec
Fiuses back mine. Power. Fiuses. Lussed.noot taiknr
@@richardsmithjr bbcb. .
For two years I've been battling this same exact problem. Thank God I found your video. I swear I thought I was alone and most people just couldn't understand. You don't know how many times I've heard "Why don't you just put it in a shop". For starters, once I buy a vehicle, it will never see a shop again, and I could do exactly what a shop would do, plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, Crank Position sensor etc. Minus the ridiculous labor rate a shop would charge. What always drove me crazy was hearing a solution, but it wouldn't make sense. I could R&R any part on my truck. But I just refused to do that if it don't make sense. In other words, I always would ask myself How would a ambient weather increase cause a certain part to malfunction and cause a crank no start condition. I've yet to find that answer, but I now at least have a few good paths that make sense to me. My key ignition has always been suspect as it's been flaky as long as I owned the truck. Also My aftermarket stereo has kinda been suspect mainly because the dash was damaged many moons ago when replacing the heater core. So the dash that holds that stereo is not very secure. But my gut feeling what I've always had but never heard other people with common experiences, is the wiring harness. Unlike frying the wires to the fan. Many years ago I lost my front left wheel well bulkhead splash guard. Living in California, where it seems were normally in drought mode, I didn't think much about it. But after reading through some comments it got me thinking and it kinda makes sense. I looked at my harness by the fuse box for a quick inspection and I quickly realized, water has been getting up in there because the harness is definitely weathered and it wouldn't surprise me if there isn't some intermittent corrosion going on around the harness close to the fuse box. Acting like a fried wire or relay, but different as corrosion or short being the problem. At least I feel like I'm on a good path that makes sense. I'm sure Allot of people like myself don't care to voyage down this rabbit hole. Make no mistake, this is a rabbit hole of the worst kind. If I find a solution, I'll definitely post it. Thanks to all that shared!
Ralph
2000 Dodge Ram 5.9l
298K original miles⁴
Recently a friend seen my video and was telling me about a situation he had with a early 2000s Dodge pickup truck. Was having similar issues with the vehicle shutting down. He did the normal run down of all the sensors and visual wiring checks and found nothing wrong. He contacted a friend of his who worked for many years as a mechanic at a dealership and he was told to "check the harness". His exact words were "I mean really check the harness, look for cracks, corrosion and other flaws". So, my my friend did just that. It was winter time and he had a lot of time on his hands and he pulled the harness from the truck and took it in the house. He and his wife went over every inch of the harness and found 1 wire that was cracked. I should say the outer coating was cracked but, the wire inside was in one piece. However, after deciding to repair that section, upon cutting the wire they found massive corrosion inside the wire. Apparently, the wire had cracked and moisture leaked in and traveled down the inside of the wire coating. This then made him want to re-check the whole harness again. Eventually, he found two more similar spots. He also found corrosion inside of a few pin connections. In the end he never knew which spot was causing the problem. He put the harness back in and the engine fired up and has run fine to this day.
The takeaway here is; if you think you looked close and you still can't find the problem "look really close". With that in mind many people don't have the resources or the time to do in depth searching and give up when all that is causing the problem is something as simple as a cracked wire, corrosion or a short. In the case of my friend's story he said the problem would have never been found if the harness wasn't removed from the truck.
I have a 2000 Django 5.9 the just no bussed on me, spent hours trying to diagnose to no avail. Going to try this today, hope it works. Thanks for sharing.
its the pcm or bad ground to the relay box under the hood
@@mrducktape yeah I'm guessing it's the computer or pcm
@@debramartin9396 im say pcm or bad ground because a 3 sec gens i hav gad tge some issue it turned out to be loss of ground to the relays so the pcm would cut out from time to time and fuel pump relays burned out after a day not always pcms on dodges
I start counting to 180 seconds then start, 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 lariat thank you very much, they used to make pretty good trucks back in the day, now the corporation shit's the bed, FIAT owns them now, "yea FIAT" I can't tell you how tired one's arm gets waving people around while saying sorry, women can get nasty, however the men always sympathies, because we know !! I would even get the occasional "Hey buddy you need a push" I'd just smile and say "no thanks It'll be good in 3 minutes, its just a dodge thing ". There is a trick however that will tell you if it is in fact the pcm, get it to stall, pop the hood, get a wrench, and lightly rake the connectors of the pcm with the handle of the wrench back and forth the way moe slaps larry and curly, remember with the key still on, then go back and check to see if the no buss and check engine lights have all gone off, if not, repeat the puddin head slap. If it's an intermittent and quietly stalls as if god just turned the key off for no friggin reason then 100% pcm, if it sputters, lurches, low idle, smells like gas, runs peppy one minute then feels like your towing a macy's day parade float the next, then sensor problem. despair not brethren's once it's fixed and I know that you will for it is your mission to fix that pile of crap, WHY you may ask? because we're not going give dodge the satisfaction of duping us into an American equivalent of the U-go, "google it" and I can tell you that once you have fixed your Dodge It will feel as if you'v just given birth to the wolds biggest turd, AAAAAAAAAAH !
Lmao... too funny to not be a laughing matter, to say the least! My odometer doesn't stop blinking tho... I'm lost... I'm a carpenter for crying out loud. I bought my 98 Dakota 5.2l 5 yrs ago and have not had 1 trip in it yet. I have since then became a half cocked electrician (rewired the whole kit-N-Kaboodle from headlights to the fuel pump) due to the original owner throwing in the towel on the electrical run-a-muk fail. Then after few years of sitting at 141,000 miles (heavy duty 4x4, completely loaded with everything Dodge had available to put in it, upgraded the whole electrical system, yada-yada- Yada! ). Another person bought it and chased the issues too and upgraded the stereo, Amp, speakers, and instead of buying the adapters required to new fog lights, stereo, tow components, New Viper alarm system, etc, they tapped into the wiring at every point connecting necessary to overhaul the whole shebang AND left the old harnesses and wiring flopping around ×while the wires deleted or kaput became conjoined and taped off! After a few grand, they left it parked a few more years where they sold it to a young buck that came behind them to add another layer of harnesses and MORE conjoined (now triplets) and tapping, they gave up too! After 5 years in a field, I bought it and it had EVERY SINGLE RECEIPT from many purchased, even including the original ZCar lot window sticker that was on it when the original owner bought it. They lived 1 County away from the FACTORY that it was built at and it showed that the owner bought it at stock plain Jane and the car lot SENT IT BACK to the factory to have it built to suit to its MAXIMUM AWESOM! Even the paint was redone to the most insane purple color that has 6 names in the true color! It has metallic, pearl, sparkles.... geese already! But what I found out was the issues the 2nd h 3rd owners had was that due to the factory sending it out originally as a bare stock 2 wheel drive base & no a.c. to boot, the VIN NUMBER WAS SET AS A SIMPLISTIC BASE MODEL AND THEY NEVER TOOK THE TIME TO READ OVER EVERYTHING THAT WAS INSIDE THE FACTORY BOOK PLASTIC CASE INSIDE THE GLOVEBOX! IT WAS ALL FOLDED AND STUCK TOGETHER! So they were pounding money and time into trust of the parts the vin # showed to have needed to use! The alternator was too small and the battery was the lean 650... if I hadn't read the barely legible stuck all folded into a playing card sizes drive out window sticker, I would never had known anything either! So, thank God for the absolute miracle of OCD Filling and hoarding of the og owner! What a story... unbelievable if I was told it!
So, I'm having the exact symptoms that you have going on here. This is the only video I have found that shows anything about the odometer blinking like that... BUT...BUT... MY ODOMETER DOESNT STOP BLINKING... EVER! No matter the time frame I've let it sit. Otherwise, the exact actions that yours showed is spot on! Sooo... no bus doesn't come up... just blink on & on! Computer? Please hellllp me if u can!
I wish I had an instant answer. However, I'm not an expert on this kind of stuff. I'm just the guy that posted a video about it. And I did learn a lot about it along the way but again, i'm still not an expert on this no bus issue.
If you haven't already, I would ask that you go and read the description box for this video. I posted an update to the video in the description box. Essentially, the no bus issue can take on many forms.
Does it run
Once you install the new PCM do a Hard reset(Connect the positive and negative for a few minutes I worked for Dodge when these things were new,I currently own a "98 4x4 the (97-98 are Totally different from any other year),99 shares some of the problems. Anyway after waiting for a bit say 20 min Just to be safe, Ive seen some of the craziest things happen working for the Dealership as a Tech, hook em back up, this basically this will reset you BCM, PCM, TIPM and it kinda syncs if you will the whole car back together. What I wouldn't give to get rid of the factory alarm mine is acting up again, if you use the drivers door to unlock it the alarm goes off, Ive replaced all parts all the major locks to that system and it still does it, I still have the Dealer Manual to it and have literally gone step by step and all checks out. From the factory there is a cover that goes over the Computer in the engine bay to protect it from heat and trash but during set up a lot of techs toss em in the trash ensuring there will be work coming in down the road, that s like them telling us to reflash the computer so you would drive 7500 with the break in oil(what was left)still in your engine, it was black water and liquid metal just pouring out the drain plug and they all got a kick out of it cheering that's gold! or deliberately putting bad wheel bearings in a NEW vehicle just so it would come back for more work, I ended up quitting and went to work for myself until I became disabled. It sucks there are so many crooked shops.
Hi Ray, hey thanks for the advice. Still have this vehicle and it still has the same problem. I haven't been driving it too much, but I do start it faithfully every 4 days. We tried the hard reset a few times and there was no luck there. This whole problem started after a fan relay fried. After taking it to the shop on a tow truck it started fine (it had cooled down). The idiotic mechanics replaced the PCM without investigating further. There is actually a short in the wire harness somewhere between the relay box on the left fender and where the harness passes the fan (under the radiator). If I grab the harness and move it with my hand any number of crazy things happen. Like the fuel pump will start running without the motor running (still no bus) or sometimes moving the harness will instantly make the "no bus" go away and the car starts. Now that the weather is breaking I will have a chance to get at it and see where the short is.
Hey buddy, I have 2000 5.9 durango, sat for year. I'm getting fuel under engine, truck won't crack up and run longer then 5 seconds, any advice? Fuel pump, pump primary, are only thing I know for sure working...
hi ray, in my durango im having problems with the 4wd, is that something you can help me with
I've been driving mine almost a year now it cuts out with a no bus on the dash. The problem is a computer heats up with a 5.9 liter in any cracks in solder joints separate with the heat. I squirt ice-cold water on the computer jump in and it immediately starts. I use about a 16 ounce bottle with the tiny hole in the lid. Works for me every time.
Amazing! Sorry that you're having the no bus problem, but I love hearing stories how people overcome the problem and keep going.
I just put a pcm in my '02 4.7L manual transmission Dakota after watching a couple diagnostic videos. Now I'm getting 'no bus' videos recommended.
My little truck just shut off out of nowhere a few times (electrical stayed on, engine cut out). I wiggled the pcm connector- #1 I think- and heard relays click, so I unplugged all 3 connectors from the computer and blew them out with contact cleaner followed by compressed air, plus visual inspection around the confuzer and the fuse block for rubbed-through wiring or any signs of corrosion. Nada.
Next time it stalled out on the highway, so I started checking wiring when it was in the faulted state. Easy enough since by this point, a week into the symptoms, all I had to do to get it to f@%# up was turn the key on and wait a few minutes. I found that both powers and both grounds for the pcm were intact, I had my 5-volt reference at the throttle position and coolant temp sensors, and most importantly my scope showed normal activity on the pci pin meaning the bus line couldn't be shorted or open like the message on the dash was indicating.
90-ish miles in on a new pcm, when I couldn't even get out of my neighborhood last week.
Did you get it fixed?
@@Tomato41866 Yes! I've gone a few thousand miles with no issues. If you're getting "no bus" on the dash, your order of testing/inspection should be something like this:
1.) Find a wiring diagram that shows power distribution and grounding for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Make sure it's for your exact vehicle (for example, my 4.7L 4x4 is wired different than the California 4.7L 4x4, and they're both different than the 4.7L 4x2). The old Haynes/Chilton manuals didn't have the computer-related wiring diagrams I needed, so I ended up taking a screenshot of a YT video showing the diagram for my truck.
2.) Visual inspection of wiring between pcm, its connectors and the fuse block (Doge calls it the power distribution center, oo la la), you're looking for damage to the wiring or that distinctive 'green death' from corroded copper wires.
3.) If your vehicle is similar to my Dakota, your pcm has two power feeds and two grounds, both need to be intact (not more than 0.2 ohm resistance on the grounds, and full battery voltage on the feeds when the key is on)
4.) If power & ground are there, next you need to see if you have activity on the PCI bus line (the high-speed communication network that the "no bus" message is claiming is shorted or open, we need to see if that's true). You'll need an oscilloscope to see the data transfer across the line, with normal activity looking like this: _l''''l_l''''l_l''''l_____l''''l_l''''l_l''''l____ (square waves between 0-5V in little packets) and _abnormal_ activity looking like either like like a heartbeat, with irregular spikes and sloping lines instead of uniform, vertical lines between 0V and 5V (clean 'on'/'off' or '0'/'1' binary signals the computer can interpret) or a flat line at 0V __________.
5.) If you have those nice clean repeating square waves, you now know the CAN Bus is still up and the code on the dash is a lie, so now you just need to verify that you have 5V reference signals going from your sensors back to the confuzer. I chose the coolant temp. sensor and the throttle position sensor because they were easy to get to, jammed some T-pins in and saw nominal 5V (I think it was more like 4.5V or so, they're rarely exactly 5V but they need to be close) which means all the inputs to the computer are there.
6.) If you get this far, that means your pcm is getting all the right inputs: power, ground, communication from sensors and other modules in the network... congrats! You need a new confuzer. Got mine from Flashmasters for $375 (you'll get a 10% core charge back if you send them your old confuzer), they've been around a long time.
If you're gonna tackle the diagnostics yourself, I'll be checking this comment thread in case you have any questions I might be able to answer. Good luck Thomas!!!
Had this problem on a 5.9 ram. Found bad ground connection of about 3 wires by the ac compressor and intake manifold
I have checked nearly every ground I could find. I'll recheck that location again. Thanks so much for the feedback.
@@richardsmithjr good luck
Yeah just checked this area thoroughly again today and there's no short in this area. All the wires are perfect the coating is not broken or cracked and the outer protective covering is good. I do remember seeing a video about a gentleman that lives in the Chicago area that had this problem.
Man that sucks. I found it by accident. Leaning over the engine I moved the harness and I heard the truck come alive just from moving the harness around
The wires going into the pcm. Same issues with 99 1500 ram. It dies when even while driving, at the light, usually it happens more so in the summer. But if you walk around to the 3 clips where the wires run into wiggles them, fuel pump comes on and the no bus is gone. I put white grease inside the connection, also seems to help. All dodges have this same issue.
Its a can bus problem. You have to hook up an oscilloscope to can hi and can low lines, turn the key on, and watch wave forms. They have to mirror each other. If the pattern is not correct, you unplug modules one at a time until wave form is normal
Did that. Local mechanic checked all modules several times and nothing wrong with modules. At this time it looks as if there is a short in the wire harness somewhere between the relay box (front left) and the PCM. When the no bus appears, if I move the wire harness in the area where it runs under the radiator all kinds if strange things happen. 1: the no buss disappears and the vehicle starts or 2: the no buss stays on and the fuel pump starts running without turning the key.
This would make sense because this whole problem started right after the electric fan relay burned out... as in fried the relay and the wire going to the fan.
Actually just started the vehicle today to move it... only waited 3 minutes.
If you lose a power or ground to the pcm, it is unlikely you could communicate with a scanner to it when you lose either or. Also, sounds suspicious when they say checked all the modules. Guess what? You cant check a module.. you can check powers and grounds to it... then the conclusion is the module. You wait intil car doesnt start, then unplug pcm and check powers and grounds to it then
@@mikesabin8568 all modules were checked by putting working modules in. The mechanic is a hard core Dodge guy. Every single module and all ground connection were checked, rechecked and checked again. And your right no testing can really be done when the system has no power and that is why we tested the system when it does have power. When the system has power there are no issues at all, none. But we have recently found that when there is no power "no buss" if the harness is moved in a certain area, the no bus goes away. There are other videos on YT where there is a short in the system same as mine. One guy has a video posted where the short was at the front of the left valve cover, and very similar in the cold weather his motor started without issue.
We have put in other PCM and checked the BCM, connection behind the instrument panel, connections under the relay box and many more.
Sadly I just haven't had the time to pull the harness to full inspect and run down the short.
Richard Smith Jr how many modules are on that bus? I would unplug them all, then i would ohm check the harness. After ohm checking the harness, i would stress the harness by putting an inline test bulb with a 15 amp fuse to check the harness under voltage stress
My last point is, I don’t kno how he checks power and ground. Perhaps he is good at it, perhaps he is not. For example, i can check a harness and see 12 volts with my meter... yet that is deceptive.. watch videos on the tool load pro to see what im talking about
I've been dealing with this exact scenario on my 99 dakota. Sent it to the shop and they said it was the fuse box shorted. I took it home and starting to think it's computer. Literally replaced every sensor and the problem is just getting more common as time goes on. Not a lot of information on this problem
Sorry to hear. After what I went through I truly feel for anyone having the "no bus" problem. The saddest part is that it is not limited to one thing, there are so many things that can cause the problem that it is a luckshot to find the problem quickly. It can be sensors, PCM, corrosion at a connection and the list goes on. I guess that is why this video has 58,000 views and counting.
98 5.2 Dakota and mine is now not starting but will after putting in new sensor here n there. Then shuts itself off still
I just bought a 2000 Dakota. Had several issues with electrical components. Finally decided to pull fuses and relays until I found the one that corrected my issues. In my case there is something wrong in the power lock circuit causing my gadget to not work, the dome light flickers, something around the passenger airbags chirps,... very strange. My guess is that if there is a short in the system, it can cause the computer to send false signals out to other components. Hope this helps.
Anything on the inside of the vehicle would most likely be controlled by the BCM (body control module) the issues in this video are related to the PCM (powertrain control module).
I have a 99 Dodge Dakota rt and all the gauges went down with the no bus came on but still has all the power and runs like a champ still but no gauges work
Sound like the bus system is working under the hood but, not inside. I would check the connection on the back of the instrument panel or the BCM (body control module). PCM controls under the hood and the BCM controls inside the vehicle.
After $1200+ new fuel pump, throttle body sensor, spark plugs and boots. And a no vehicle for a month. Took it back from the stumped mechanic and back to no bus. 2003 Dakota. Watched this video tried it tonight and it started the same way within minutes! Thank you, any other tips or updates on your vehicle would be helpful.
I'm going to try it too. I have 02 dakota same exact symptoms
Did you figure out what it was?
There are two wires from the fan that link up with a bundle of wires that I believe go to the pcm and ecu
My 2000 dodge dakota is doing exactly the same right now can't figure it out
I ended up pulling my main relay that goes to the ECM computer and when I googled it on my end it said that I was having a bad connection to the battery but when I pulled the main relay that goes to the ECM computer it reset the no bus signal I haven't got it back in my vehicle ran for a good 30 minutes Don't know if it fixed my issue yet but I'm going to sure try throwing the information out there I hope it works for you guys
Turns out a lot of these ecu are bad around these years there always seems to be a communication break in the ecu itself and have to be replaced and reprogrammed to your vehicle’s vin then usually starts right up to read and clear codes
I have a 00 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L with the same exact issue. My truck stalls as soon as the engine gets up to temp especially on hot days it only stays running for about 30min. Then shuts off. I think it's the pcm because of the the no bus issue.
Have you fixed the problem? I have the same exact truck and problem
99 Durango 5.9L here same crap. Rewired and soldered new PCM harness clips. Each sensor getting the proper 5v. Put remanufactured PCM and although it ran awesome over 400 miles it did start to no bus again. I'm ready to just junk this pos. Really love these trucks but this one is getting to be too much of a headache
Update I fixed my problem simply by replacing the computer. When it comes to computer issues you might as well spend the money to get a brand new one. The place I got it from serves a lifetime warranty and it's tailored to my Vin so it's exact. Now she runs like a fkn champ! I also had to replace all the gaskets on the truck now that was a bitch. Looking to do a rebuild next and front suspension bushings are basically gone. I paid I think around $250 for my computer.
Its the exact problem I'm currently having. Noone can figure it out my gut says it's the pcu aswell just needs to be replaced. But what ended up fixing your truck? It's dejevu lol exact same symptoms
The answer to my fix can be found in the description box below the video. However, you need to know there could be any number of problems that cause "no bus".
I have a 99 5.2 starts runs but no cluster when first start all lights come on biut 30of running I get no bus and check engine but no codes will drive down Rd I have done the cluster test and they all will calibrate but then don't work when they are finished. No clue what to do now other than pull harness it all started after I changed heater core gages all worked for days afterwards then stopped. Would love to hear anything u have to put in on this project
Sorry about the late reply, I was away overseas. The no bus problem has a vast amount of possibilities. I'm no expert however, I would suggest as a starting point to check all engine sensors because they are the most likely and easiest to deal with. Crank position sensor being the usual problem. If not a sensor, now you move into the unknown. A bad connection, broken wire or corrosion on a connection. It could also be the PCM (computer). In the end my problem was a burned wire leading from the electric fan into the main harness.
My 01 dodge 1500 5.2 was doing the exact same thing and after running all kinds of test with meters and oscilloscope showing everything is fine i change the pcm anyways and it fixed it, in these types of trucks the pcm is a very common thing for the solder points in the pcm to heat up due to it being position and mounted next to the motor, this cause it to have the interment problem when it heats up the solder points break contact giving the no bus and when cools down it will work again, but sensors and shorts in the wiring will cause the same like on this video so be sure to check all that first, and make sure its good you can before you replace the pcm, a simple way is to unhook the sensors and see if the no bus goes away (remember the vehicle wont start with certain sensors unhooked even if no bus is gone) after if not a sensor i would check for shorts and broken wires that are crossing or hotwire touching the frame, and if still nothing i would go for the pcm replacement. Hope this helps if you having same problem thanks
Maybe this will help somebody. I had this problem on my 2002 dodge Dakota 4.7 liter. My truck would idle and die after 8 minutes and then it would crank no start for a long time. I cleaned the throttle body, changed TPS, IAC, no change. then I decided to leave the key in the "ON" position (with truck not on) and started wiggling the 3 connectors to the ECM. The middle connector must be where the fuel pump is connected to the ECM electrically because I heard the fuel pump engage which then I turned the ignition key to turn on the truck and it started. Maybe it's a bad connection between the middle connector to the ECM or a short. I am still working on it but I think I'm on to something.
98 Dakota 5.2 with same issue won’t start and if does it idles then shuts off on its own
any update? also have a 2002 dd 4.7… same issue
Hi did you find out the problem .
Did you fix it? Please let me know , i have exactly the same problem.
Please let me know, thanks.
The answer is in the description box below the video.
I have the same problem I have a 2001dodge ram 1500 and still has nobus I looked for everything on the truck and it looks okay I don't know what to do more?
The best thing I can say is "look really close at wire connections on the wire harness." And when I say look close I mean look really close at everything. In the case of my situation it was a burnt wire in the middle of the wire bundle. A friend of mine had a problem with a Dodge RAM of this same era that would randomly shut off. He was a very knowledgeable professional mechanic. After weeks of trying everything he pulled the whole wire harness out of the engine bay and sat in his living room one night literally looking at all the connections. Then he noticed that some of the PCM connector pins had very fine amounts of that green powdery corrosion on them. He cleaned them and the truck never had a problem after that. He told me he had taken the PCM connection apart at least 4 or 5 times and never noticed it, until he had the harness in the house under good bright light. Now, I'm not saying to just go rip the harness out of your truck... But look at everything very close. Also check all your sensors. Crankshaft position sensor, cam sensor, idle air and so on. Aside from the PCM there is also a BCM (body control module). I'm a good mechanic but not a professional and all this advice comes from all the things I have learned from putting up this video and talking to people (on-line and in person) about the dreaded NOBUS problem. I hope you find the problem.
@richardsmithjr thank you I'm going to do that and thank you...
@@richardsmithjr thank you
There's a orange wire from the harness that it's outside harness not hooked up on nothing I looked very close to all the wires everything looks okay I took it all the harness aport and that Oregon wire has glue in one end but the ground wire is all dirty I hope that its that ..?
@ChinoGarcia-gi7me yes, I forgot to mention "to check all ground wires." Sometimes ground connections look good but there not. If all else fails, it could be a bad PCM.
Same problem here friend. thanks for the sub, I did the same. If you figure it out please post a video of it. As soon as I have time I will make another attempt to figure it out. In the mean time I use two computers, when one gets hot and the truck stalls I pull over and swap it out. Also I only drive the truck locally and not on the highway. seams like there is a short causing the computer to get hot and trigger the shut off relay.👍👍
@Ryan Shepard I still haven't been able to really do anything with my Durango because of the winter weather. I still start it every three to four days and drive it a bit. When cold it starts in about 30 seconds to a minute. As soon as the weather breaks I want to look at it closer. It idles a little low sometimes and then other times it will do the racing idle (up & down), but never stalls. Still all in all this whole problem started when the electric fan relay fried. And when in "no bus" if I grab the wire harness in the area under the radiator area and move the wire harness around the power comes back to the system.
Your problem is different then mine. My Durango never dies once it is running. With this problem I once drove it for over 4 hours straight in 95 degree stop & go rush hour traffic and it never died. My problem is starting the damn thing.
OG Timbercraft if you find your problem please share I’m having the same problem sometimes mine won’t shut off sometimes it will
I have a 2001 ram 1500 5.9 The truck will run perfect anywhere from 20 minutes to a couple hours sometimes even up to a week then randomly the truck will shut off no bus pops up then wait a minute the truck will start back up I can’t figure out the problem any ideas? Pretty much same issue as your having
If you are not familiar with the "No Bus" problem I would suggest starting with checking all sensors on the engine. Crank Position Sensor is where most mechanics will start. If you're lucky it is a sensor. However, the no bus issue can be many other things such as a problem somewhere in the wiring harness. It can be a cracked wire, a corroded connection and it may not always be detectable. It can all so me the PCM (computer). I am not an expert just a guy that made a video of what happened to me. In the end my problem was a burned wire leading from the electric fan into the main harness. In your situation it could be a bad connection... I'm just guessing.
I have a 1999 Dodge 1500 5.9 4x4 with 90k miles. I will get a no bus code on the odometer. Mine starts like this, while driving the I’ll get the abs light and lose the speedometer. Then lose all my gauges. But the truck will stay running and you can shut it off and restart it even with the no bus on the odometer. Any advice? Not to familiar with dodges. Also when I try to hook up a scanner it will not connect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I believe (from all the videos I have watched lol) that the problem you are describing is that you are losing the connection to the BCM (body control module) The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) connects to the BCM. The BCM controls all things about the body such as inside the vehicle.
I seen a video of a guy who had a Jeep and his problem was very much the same as yours. They claim it could sometimes be a bad connection behind the instrument panel.
@@richardsmithjr I'm running into the same problem right now none of my guages are working I'm getting the no bus light but my truck is starting just fine it starts normal no issues just my cluster is not working
@@jonathangeorge5630 This is different from my problem. But it sounds like you have a bad connection to the BCM (Body Control Module. The PCM (Powertrain Control Module controls everything under the hood. The BCM controls everything inside the car. I do not know everything about the BCM but I do know there (on my 2000 Durango) there is a connection behind the instrument panel. I removed mine a few times just to see if that was my problem, however for me that was not the problem. But for your problem it sounds like a bad connection with the BCM.
I would be too afraid to drive it even though it started up just knowing it could do it again
It was the craziest thing I ever seen. Once it started it would stay running and never stalled. I drove it in this condition as my everyday vehicle for over a month or two. I didn't have the money to get another car so I was forced to drive it and it was a living hell. Waking up over an hour early just to start the car. And when I was done work I had to sit until it started. Funny thing is, it always started... eventually.
Same problem here with Dodge Ram 1500 3.9 V6 cargo van. Are you still having this problem? Really would like to know what's wrong. I changed out my fuel pump, and since I had to disconnect the battery to do so I can't seem to run any codes without driving 50 plus miles. Tried the other day when it finally started and only made it around the block before stalling out at intersection. Had no one to help plus it. Got lucky and finally fired back up.
When it comes to the No Bus problem there are so many variables. Could be a shorted sensor, bad wire or bad PCM just to name a few.
@@lenzwizard that's everyone has said, it sounds as if this guy and I have the same problem.
@@johnjones7635 sorry for the confusion Reckless Pixel is my other channel, so I am the guy with this dreaded Durango. I have not fixed mine yet (no time). But I have determined my problem is in the wiring harness. Between the electric fan and the relay box. My problem started when my fan shorted and seared wires inside the harness. This was noticed after I made this video. Upon looking at the wires with a quick glance they look fine but there's a problem there somewhere.
Did you figure it out I'm having the same problem
Read the info in the description box below the video.
Have you solved this problem yet????? I'm having same problem myself.
It was a short in the wiring harness. This whole problem started after the electric fan burned out. When that happened, one of the fan wires got hot enough to melt a few wires inside the harness in the area where the harness ran under the left bottom side of the radiator. From the outside the harness looked fine. But, if turned on the key, got no bus, get under the car and grab the harness and move it around, instantly the no bus disappeared and the motor would start.
Hi Richard Smith Jr, I have the exact same problem with my 2003 Dodge Durango and I was wondering did you find what's the problem and did you fixed it ?
At this time my Durango is not fixed. The weather has been horrible and I have been using it as a second vehicle.
Still starts fine and rather quickly when it is cold weather. In the cold it takes about 30 seconds to a minute, but when hot it takes a lot longer.
My 04 Durango.5.7 motor has this issue and o am replacing the ecm comp I was told by my mechanic it's a common dodge issue since 2000 models
Check for a shorted wire in the harness under the fuse block. There is a section of the harness that runs under the block and they are bad about shorting there.
Are you talking about the fuse/relay box under the hood by the battery or the fuse box inside the car?
Are you talking about the fuse/relay box under the hood by the battery or the fuse box inside the car?
The box under the hood.
@@donniediggs6160 I have taken that box out twice and I haven't really found anything that looked bad, other that the wire leading to the electric fan relay. The fan relay wire is discolored because the relay has fried twice. Second time it fried is when this whole mess started.
@@donniediggs6160 Now that the weather is getting warmer I will be getting back to finding where the short actually is. And I'll take that fuse box out once more. lol
My girlfriend's Duragno has the No Bus on the odometer but it will crank and run. It will not idle though. As long as I keep my foot on the throttle it will not die. This No Bus thing seems like it is caused by a lot of things! It is hard to pinpoint.
Yes it can be caused by several things. Mine is most likely a short in my wiring harness. If the motor runs with the "no bus" you may have a problem with a short inside the vehicle.
I seen some Jeep video on YT where it was common with Jeep dashboards. But it could happen to a Durango too.
There is something called a "Body Control Module" and that can cause a No BUS and the motor will most times run.
@@richardsmithjr I just watched one where a guy says it can come up if you have an aftermarker radio. Sure enough it does have that. So I am thinking that is the cause of that. I will have to look into it a little more though.
As for the rough idle on your girlfriend's Durango that sounds like a sensor, most likely idle/air, but really could be anything. Check the coil and coil wire very closely. Also check all the normal stuff like fuses and relays. On my Durango the whole problem started when the Fan relay fried (literally), so I believe somewhere I have a burned wire/s
My 2003 1500 van just did this!! While I was swearing, my wife went on the interweb and there was your video!!! Please send address for Christmas card!!😅😎
Did you solve the problem?
@@richardsmithjr well it got me home! There was good info in the comments on your video. Guy next door to my buddy shop is pretty sharp with these things, I will check with him tomorrow. Replaced the ecm years back because of no spark. They have more Vans at the salvage yard. 😅
I got no bus it seems to me that all no bus issues. Are different and don't get me wrong all the videos and googling. I've done were all informative. Still. Were I track my problems. Is totally different. F ucking dodge. Still I love my truck I'm not posting video but if some one has a question FEEL free. My issues have been wiring harness. The coating on wire cane off in so far seven spots and wires touched. Keep in mind.y truck has never failed to start
Yes, yes & yes, I totally agree. I personally know 3 people who have had wire coating problems on truck harnesses. My friend Jason actually had his whole harness on his livingroom floor for two days before he found the problem.
Not only does the coating fall off, even worse sometimes it "micro cracks" and corrosion starts inside and unless you look very, very close you'd never notice it.
@@lenzwizard ya I felt like little hard sections of wire. IV started to pull harness out of truck. Guess I need to
99 Durango 5.2 4wd. I'm having similar issues. Truck runs fine for 25-30 minutes then it will stall and won't start until it cools off for about 30 minutes. I tried squirting some starter fluid in and it fires up for a few seconds. Made me think the fuel pump or fuel filter was bad. So I replaced them. That didn't solve the issue. Still stalls after 25-30 minutes of driving. I've never paid a mechanic to fix an engine issue and never will. I have had transmissions replaced and alignments,tires and balancing done. My next step is a crank position sensor, then cam position sensor, then ecm. I've already checked the single coil.There are no codes on the scanner tool and I don't get a no buss message on the odometer. If its not one of those things. I'll probly junk it or just use it in town.
You have a “Check Engine” light. Have you run an OBD II check on it?
I have a 99 5.9L , what grounds did you check?
Is the pcm calibrated and everything?
its the coil driver inside the pcm its not the shut down relay you need to run a better ground wire to the relay box under the hood and replace the pcm you can fix pcm yourself if you can solder
It's a brand new PCM. The PCM was taken out and tested on another vehicle and it works fine.
Thank you very much,
I know how to fix these problems. Two things you need. First off, you need a scope. No scope, probably not going to figure this out... Secondly, a wiring diagram for computer data lines... Hook scope to pci line and watch scope with key on.... should see a 0-7 volt square wave. Your car will not because of the problem.Your wave pattern will look bad... Then you disconnect each module one at a time on the pci bus until your square wave looks normal... that indicates you have disconnected the bad module that is pulling the pci bus line down. Problem solved. If you don't have a scope or a wiring diagram you will not figure this out. Also, a million shops don't understand this problem. This crap is my specialty
Mike... any pointers?
I’ve been killing myself on my 2001 Ram 1500
- it’s driving me crazy and draining my bank account. I’ve probably spent 30+ hours trying to find the problem... any ideas, help, guidance would be awesome!
Bryan Nelms you have to have a wiring schematic for your car. Also, establish if you have a can bus problem or not. So you have scanned the car and cannot talk to any module? I then try a second scanner to see if its just the scanner to verify
Hey man where are you located
@@OutdoorsmanElliott Rockford Illinois
Gee! it seems the nissan transmission module engineer had a part- time in fiat, so this whole crap!
Seen a guy on here fix his by replacing a faulty transmission shift solenoid, the old one was made of plastic and it would vibrate loose causing no ground and a no bus
As I have learned there are so many things that can cause the "No Bus" problem. Most no bus problems the vehicle will never start at all and then there are others who get no bus and the vehicle starts and runs fine but, they have no power to the gauges. In conclusion it is a problem that literally has to be traced looking at one thing at a time. Most mechanics start with looking at the sensors with the Crankshaft Position sensor being the number one culprit. In my case that you see here in this video it was a melted wire in the wire harness that was caused when the electric fan burned out (see notes in video description). We checked, rechecked and checked again every possible sensor, connection, ground point and so on. Even replaced the PCM with a new one. When that didn't work we tried a good PCM from another Durango... either way in the end it was a bad wire in the harness.
So did you find out what it was
I’m having this same issue….frustrating!
I feel the pain. 😔
The only problem with this particular situation is that it’s not turning on. Going on 2 hrs. This happened yesterday and I managed to get home. Today not even close.
@@JoseCastillo-ye7je there are many different scenarios to the "no bud" problem. Many times the engine just won't start at all. My situation was rather unique (a short in the wire harness under the radiator area) and that's why I made the video. To my knowledge from what I learned, the place to start is the crank position sensor. Many people say that is the most likely culprit.. And then if that is not the problem you need to run down and check the other sensors on the engine.
@@JoseCastillo-ye7je You can also read through the many comments on this video to get some ideas as well. But keep in mind it's RUclips and there are several comments that people have left that are just totally idiotic lol
@@JoseCastillo-ye7je FYI I'm the guy that posted the video but I'm commenting from another RUclips account
Did you ever find out how to fix it because I have the same happened on A diesel truck which it has glow plugs light comes on please wait I can crank it after that light but the whole time and no bus is on please tell how you fix it
I have the same problem, cranks but wont start, only I do not get the no bus indicator. its a 2000 dakota 4x4 4.7
Ended up having to replace both crank shaft sensor and the cam shaft sensor. Fires right up no problems.
currently having the same issue '01 ram1500
My recommendation is to check the obvious first. Check all sensors starting with the crank position sensor. This is one of the usual suspects. Check all engine sensors. Then go for the wiring harness and check it close as well as ground connections and PCM connections. After you check all connections, check them again. Crazy I know, but these Dodges have wiring that will crack or split and let corrosion get it. Also, check all connectors for corrosion.
If you replace the PCM, make sure it is programmed for your specific vehicle/engine.
Okay so what happened to me was it was normal then after work I noticed all the symbols light up and the Gages wasn’t working same as in this video the no bus shows up. Well after some research I found that is the computer can’t communicate so I let my car die by leaving the lights on and drained the power all of it tell it was a dead start then I jumped it with my buddies car after awhile it started and the no bus was there but then it started turning off the symbols and the no bus went back to the miles and the next time I started my Durango it was completely normal again! So Rest your car by draining the power that will rest it. Hope this helps
All ready tried that. There are already a few videos on YT. I removed the battery and tied both the negative and positive terminals together with a zip tie for 48 hours... did nothing for me. We even tried it again a few weeks later lol... still did nothing. For some people a "reset" might work and I would agree it is worth a try.
Do you fixed?
Big plug in fuse box underhood with screw in middle screw has about 3/4 inch of threads cant tighten plug is comunication between pcm's still runs change screw and tighten fixed
Hi what is the problem for no bus please 🙄
No bus can be caused by many different problems. Read the "pinned" comment and the replies.
@@richardsmithjrmy dodge dacota It stops spinning and when I knock on the computer it comes back up and running
@@dimimerhie2633 if it is working after knocking on it, it could be a loose connection or a corroded connection. It will be a matter of hunting down the problem.
@@richardsmithjr Sometimes it comes back to work after 10 minutes without me touching it. Should I change the computer? Thank you
@@dimimerhie2633 Before changing the PCM (computer) I would look at the connection going to the computer. I have heard of the pic connectors getting corroded. When checking connection you must be very thorough, I can't emphasize this enough. A friend of mine had similar problems and after checking connections three times discovered very fine corrosion in the pin connectors.
Other things to look for are cracking on the outer wire coating. Think cracks let moisture get in and cause corrosion. Also, a loose ground wire or a ground that is connected to rust.
Buying a new PCM can be costly. Also know the PCM has to be programed for your specific vehicle/motor combination.
Dam older thread, but good information. My 2000 just dies with the same symptoms. I do have the 5 volts. No bus on I/p Has code for iac for months, but ran. Have issue with cooling fan relay. Need to check inside power distribution box for damage. Have pcm on order and crank sensor.
Any other ideas?
My problem all started when the electric fan shorted and burned the fan relay. Replaced the relay and awhile later it shorted again. This time the No Bus appeared and the motor shutdown. As soon as I pulled over and lifted the hood I could smell burnt wiring but found nothing.
Then started this long process of checking all sensors an replacing the PCM and still having this problem you see in thus video. Turn the key... wait and sooner or later it will start and run perfectly.
During all my searching on RUclips I found a video where a Durango had a very similar problem as mine. Turn the key and wait and in cold weather his Durango started right away. Mine, in cold weather would start in about 30 seconds.
Finally I had time (I work a lot) I found a hidden short in the wire harness under the left side of the radiator, where the electric fan wire join the harness. The wires were partially melted and that was causing a partial short. When the key was turned on the wires would eventually make a connection and the no buss would disappear. This short was inside the harness. The outside of the harness looked perfect.
@@richardsmithjr
Thanks. I’ll check the harness. I did smell the burning slightly. Have not tried to let is set with key on, And see what happens. I will try that tomorrow. Thanks
@@dalev1319 how I found out about leaving the key on was purely be accident. I had a mechanic install the PCM. Pick vehicle, started fine. Next morning started fine. Went to leave work gor lunch and when I tried to start I got no bus. I called the mechanic and while we were talking I had the key on. We talked about 8 minutes and all the sudden the no bus went out and I started the engine. From that moment on it always gave no bus before starting.
Please, keep in mind the reason I made this video is because my "no bus" situation was very different than most. Most often when you get no bus your engine will not start at all. But, it is worth a shot to see if it works. Also, keep in mind that with mine when the no bus went out a second or two later the gauges powered up and then it would start. If I waited more than 10-15 seconds after the power up of the gauges the power would die and no bus came back.
Tap on your computer the board resistor is getting hot. I have seen it on several vehicles. Top on the computer and it will start. Tap again it shut off. Its a relay or resistor on the board. New level auto has videos on it.
Tapped on it 1000s of times lol. There was a short in the wire harness.
Did you change on the fuel sending unit, it's on top of the fuel tank
No. Never thought of that.
Also it check the ignite pick up it's In side the distributor. When it gets hot it shuts off..
@@robertetcitty5798 Will the fuel sending unit give a "no bus"? Never heard of that. Distributor is fine. No problems when getting hot at all. Drove for 5 hours in 95 degree heat, stop & go traffic, no problems at all.
If the fuel pump is pumping then that's not the issue. It's the electronics, shutting it off...
I guarantee that is not the problem. I am a mechanic and work on electronic problems. its 100 percent, not what you think it is....
I have a 2005 dodge magnum it’s reading NO BUS on my dashboard it runs and drives my windshield wipers don’t work or the radio my lights stay on my cluster doesn’t work my heat works tho I’m trying to figure out the issue
Same problem as mine, replaced pcm. Runs better now
I did that and it did nothing for my problem. I wish it was that easy for mine lol.
@@richardsmithjr Good night, mine turns off when it's hotter, but if it's warm it takes longer to turn off, normally when it turns off it takes 3 minutes to 5 minutes to turn on. Do you think it's the same problem?
@AngelGonzalez-gk8iv yes, i think it could be the PCM (powertrain control module).
Eso me pasa con mi ram 5.9 2001
Iba andando y derrepente se apagó y me apareció no bus
que sera? Que sensor debo checar?
Start with Crankshaft Position sensor. But it could be another sensor too.
Ivan Tapia. que paso con este problema tuyo. yo estoy esperentando lo mismo.
My 98 Dakota won’t idle.. shuts off after running
I can give all kinds of information on it but the people I told you have videos on that stuff can show you better then me telling you like this. Both of those people can be contacted and help you out give them a try.
It's pcm or coil pick up is bad
Coil pick up tested good and PCM was replaced. In fact all sensors were checked. It was a short in the wiring harness under the radiator area. The electric fan shorted and ever so lightly melted 3 wires.
@@richardsmithjr wow
I got 2001 dodge ram I got a no bus on the odometer and it starts up just fine
I have Dodge Durango 2000 model, I suffer from no bus signal, I changed the ECM,petrol pump , and ignition coil that under the air filter box , and I still face the same issue .... any advice so I can solve that issue ??
@daylight_arrow given what you said you were already fixed I would start with the sensors. Start with crank position sensor and work your way around to the other sensors on the motor. There may be a sensor to shorting out the system.
just wait mine is same but only will run maybe 5 minutes at a time till no bus returns.
The "No bus" is a complicated issue. There are so many things that can cause it to happen and therefore the symptoms are always different. I'm no expert on this. I'm just the guy that made this video to show what my problem was. You can read the update to my issue in the description box and you can check out the comment section for The symptoms and issues at other people i've had. All I can say is I wish you good luck.
Problem please 🙏
This is exactly what's happening to my '99 Durango. Have to wait for ignition and gagues.
I wish I could tell you exactly what's wrong with it however, there are so many variables that can give the "no bus signal." With that said; if you're experiencing a similar problem like I had in this video where you have to wait, it very well could be a short somewhere in the wiring. The longer the power is running through the system eventually the short makes a connection. That is what was going on in my situation. After this video was made I found that when my electric fan burned out it had light burnt a wire in the harness that was causing the my problem. The wire looked good on the outside but was damaged on the inside.
Also check your harness around the left valve cover, this is a common area for the harness to run and wear.
What does NO BUS MEAN?
The computers in your car talk to each other using a bus. The bus is like a telephone line that all the computers use. If the bus goes bad for one computer, it goes bad for all the computers. With no bus, the computers can't get information from one another or information from the sensors. Without co-operation and communication many of the things in the car won't work, including the engine.
didnt work for me
A cam or crank sensor grounding out will cause an apartment pcm crash with no bus along for the ride 😮
I have experienced this no bus problem.... 🤨
About 3k later .... Well it works. Having to replace water pump currently...
Scanner daner had a jeep do it to he has a video on it.
Was a dorman part you put in for the fan. There junk parts
Dogde durango 4.7 2004 corta la corriente al abrir El switch
Dear fellows:
When analyzing an electronics problem in your car, please consider all you are doing is counting with a healthy perfect electrical system ( battery, alternator, wiring, connectors, switches, and shiny perfect ground connections).
What I imagine you are dealing with: a shorted rectifier diode, inside the alternator, will damage the battery. A damaged battery will upset operation in many modules. First things first. Dont pay attention to any computer codes until the car has a sound ELECTRICAL system, which is the platform for all computerized ELECTRONICS. I mean; take the alternator to the lab and test it for rated amps. Try to find a REAL battery ANALYZER in 2020 era of ignorants. If you can find one, make certain it is not internally shorted. If the mega stores won and you cant find a battery analyzer, buy a new one hoping the new one is not SHORTED ALSO.
CUT OPEN battery primary wires. Sulfated blue o white talc is a good reason to discard the entire wire. Those wires should have terminals and those terminals (one eye connectors) should be shielded from atmophere to avoid generation of O3 the tri- oxigen known as ozone, a fast corrosion agent.
Chassis / body /"alternator body" ground spots ( yes, those with female o male threads in the middle) should be silver shiny and covered with dielectric grease or better to avoid corrosion and ensure an enhanced electrical path.
Reassemble. And you are ready for the Chrysler products, first step: take out the BCM computer and spray volatile contact cleaner and dry it with duster spray (almost freeze it). Then install / remove at least three times.
Reinstall and re-assemble all and start the car. Usually voltages cause FI to inject economic amounts of fuel, more power, lower emissions, brighter front beams, transmission shifting great, and a lot of computer related " CODES" gone.
If it keeps on the "no bus" indication on, it is a physical problem related to the bus circuit, not a basic electrical problem. If "Check Engine" is still on, the circuit to, or the sensor or an actuator generating the code, must be fixed first.
All of this, as a general practice rule prior to any " ELECTRONICS" repairs.
Victor Borges
Automotive Electronics Technician
ASE Certified Master Technician
I figured it was because you're out of gas. lol
🤣 if only it was that simple 🤣
Did you try un-plugging the crank sensor when this happens ??
What a pain in the ass
Amen to that!
Porque me marca sircuiti
I had to buy a brand new ECM computer from flash Masters and it cost me $385 to replace it and have it reprogrammed to my vehicle That's what took care of the no bus problem your ECM is bad
Not hardly the problem at all in my case. Like many who have viewed this video, you haven't taken the time to read the important updated information in the description box. Actually, replacing the PCM was the very first thing I did. I had the PCM programed at the dealer and the problem never changed. The reason for this video is to show "you can buy a new PCM" and still have the problem. I'm glad yours is fixed.
2:47
It is probably the computer
Fix or repair daily for a dodge. Not a Ford.
Well my 2001 Durango has the no bus how ever the car starts right away .. I don’t have to wait at all the thing here is that my headlights stays on (you can bearly notices) but enough to drain the battery … any help ?
If the motor will start it most likely isn't the PCM. It sounds like the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM controls all your inside switches. No guarantee but it's a good place to start.