You Won't BELIEVE Why this Dodge Doesn't Start...
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- Опубликовано: 13 дек 2021
- We got called in to diagnose a 2005 Dodge Durango crank no-start.
Some parts were already replaced:
-Fuel Pump
-PCM
-2 TPS sensors...
It cranks really fast, and setting P0068 and P0123 trouble codes.
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Enjoy!
Ivan 
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Just wanted to give props to Good Karma Garage and what they are doing to help the less fortunate!!!
Yeah, what a great cause!
YES Amen!!
What an upstanding man!!
I have I lot of respect for him!!
I have fixed people's car's for near nothing.. my pay was when I get the car running right for a person in need...
It helps that you know when to ask for help. Another set of eyes is always a good thing. Pride and blinders can take you down the wrong path but it's always good to ask for help
Agree, great way to give back and most folks you help will never forget you and how you helped them in that time of need. This spawns them to do the same when they can for someone else. Good stuff. God bless man!
I've been in a position when I had no money to fix my car. God bless those who help the people that cannot afford to pay!
That was fun! Chrysler can't make a good TPS, but they apparently make a hell of a starter!
Decades of experience building around crank-no-start conditions resulted in superior starter engineering.
No kidding hey! Was that starter in the truck or on the test bench? lol
when you use the same starter design for the better part of 70 years... you might at least get that right
Nippondenso makes their starter.
Those finicky Chrysler starters were legendary!
I suspect that in a lot of cases, when something gets returned as defective, it goes right back on the shelf to be sold again. Eventually, someone will just not bother bringing it back and there's another successful sale. I think this happens in all retail, not just auto parts.
That's interesting. They take electronic parts bac?
I went to napa for a starter, we opened the box in the store to verify the looks. was greasy and slimy with "BAD" written on it in a new box. for the right car tho. had a paper tag on it too. He said we will just go ahead and get one ordered in
@@jeffryblackmon4846 Fry's is an electronics store selling televisions etc not automotive parts so therefore yes they would take those back
this happens 100%. I bought a rear main seal from Advance auto parts and the seal that came in the box (correct part number for my application) had a seal for a different engine. I brought it back and let them know that the seal inside the box is not the same as the part number outside the box. they put a red sticker on it and set it on the shelf. a few days later I purchased the seal I needed from Rockauto and when I got it wouldn't you know it was the same exact seal I brought back to Advance auto not a week earlier, even had the red sticker on it. I let Rockauto know the issue and they told me to just throw it out and they sent me a new one.
Happened to me just this week: ordered a blower fan resistor and when I would plug it in, the fan would blow to it's highest setting regardless of it was on or off. It was acting like it was shorted. Ordered another one and lo and behold, this one was wrapped differently. My guess is that it was normally returned and not marked defective and simply put back on the shelf.
"If you are going to load up the parts cannon, use good ammo!". Truer words have never been spoken, also if you are doing the work yourself why cheap out on the parts! I wonder if that is another old Russian saying?
Hats off to Jeff and Good Karma! In many places in the US and Canada, it's nearly impossible to live without a car and for many low income families, they can't work or even exist without wheels. While we need to solve the issue of poverty and people earning so little they can't look after themselves, people like this help bridge the gap until things can change.
It just frustrates me when someone doesn't have a nickel to fix their car, but you find cigarettes, beer cans, scratch offs, etc all over the inside. And plenty of tattoos on them to boot.
you couldn't just say "good work karma garage!" you had to get on your goddamn soapbox.
Correct. A person has to ask themselves about at what point he/she is enabling and promoting poor life decisions. When we do such things out of good faith, are we actually helping the person? Sometimes, yes. Sometimes NO!
If a person has to choose to spend his/her last $20 on repairing their transportation or another couple packs of cigarettes, which is the right choice?
If a person is missing work because he/she has to go to dialysis twice per week while they get put on the waiting list for a good kidney, would free work not be for a better cause in this case?
Sometimes a person has two kids and finally got the courage to leave their douchebag spouse. Now he/she has a couple kids to take care of while trying to balance work. Since the douche spends all his/her time at the bar and casino and doesn't have a nickel to pay for child support, am I going to give that douche any free rides? That's poor and low income. Why should that person get any help from me?
22 years old, healthy, and living in Mom's basement playing the xbox all day. By helping that kid, you are doing more damage to him than good.
I have performed MANY free repairs for people and/or only charged them for parts and I am happy to do it and I continue to do it. I've fixed furnaces for free, air conditioners for free, sometimes I show up and the problem is that the thermostat batteries are dead and there is no fee.
I've had vehicles come in that had a tear develop in the intake snorkel. I get some rubber roofing tape, seal it up, and send them on their way. NO CHARGE.
@@paulstandaert5709In this case, I cringed when I heard the words "low income family" followed by 4.7 litre V8.... Freaking hell!! They may be cheap to buy, don't really know, but it cannot be cheap to run compared to any economy car or small SUV!!
To me it sounded like the people with perfectly manicured hands and/or unnecessarily enormous nails and expensive hair cut BEGGING door to door sometimes... it boggles the mind....
@@jgoncalodm Heaven forbid this person drives a 10 year old Toyota Corolla instead. But nope--gotta have that big burly V8 truck.
Don't hate me for going off on my soap box. Send some grief to those who give me a REALLY GOOD reason to not like the idea of welfare and generosity. Most everyone knows of those people. They are out there. I've met plenty of them.
I wised up several years ago now when I did some calculations on what kind of subsidies Section 8 and the welfare system brings. I've met people who were financially better off than I was, but I had to go to a job 40 hours a week.
With the original reading of the TPS at 98 percent, I'm guessing the computer thought it was in Clear Flood and why it wouldn't start.
Yes. Probably why they threw a fuel pump at it. Also it would have kicked right off on a quick squirt of starting fluid. Maybe they tried that before throwing the pump at it. Always check fuel pressure first. Unless you have one of those dumb cars that doesn't have a schrader valve in the rail. Sigh.
@@kevin9c1: Agree. A shot of carb cleaner and a simple noid light should have alerted the tech to no injector pulse. I wonder how fuel pump got on the radar.
What a great garage, helping out the community like that. With regards to aftermarket sensors, I won't touch them, not these days anyway. If I can't afford a new OEM sensor, or the OEM one is no longer available, I would rather go pick an OEM part from a salvaged car.
GREAT IDEA.
Had a Kia that was setting lean codes. Could see in data MAF was wonky. Aftermarket replacement data looked better but not where i wanted it. Still setting codes. Went to salvage yard and grabbed 3 used MAF. First one a plugged in...FIXED! Cost me some bucks for the fuel pressure test fittings I'll never use again.
I grew up in a big city but now I live in the middle of nowhere. I really miss scrap yards!
@@gailtaylor1636 You'll need those fittings two weeks after you misplace/pitch them. Best to hang on to them so you probably never need 'em again. I believe it's a sub-clause to Murphy's Law, and also applies to specialized tools that you can't rent.
@@tinkerscorner54 - Ditto. I keep most used parts i remove from my car, including spark plugs with life left on them.
It's disappointing to think about how many people buy these substandard aftermarket parts, then when it doesn't fix the problem, they buy other parts thinking that the problem lies somewhere else.
Because they want things cheap. If it was $5.00...the question is..do you have anything else cheaper?😄😄
Then all of a sudden 7 critical engine management systems are filled with ABSOLUTE trash!
The net cost of that cheap part ends up costing way more than the OEM part; Just ask Jeff.
I had this happen to me 2 weeks ago, pontiac/w 3800 v6, code p1441 (manufacturer specific) evap system flow during non purge, possible causes listed include the purge solenoid, I thought "this can't be it, just replaced that in July of 2021." Put in a fuel pressure sensor, a new vacuum hose, then was about to check the canister purge valve when I decided to actually check my purge solenoid. Removed the hose off the inlet, and it was stuck open. Felt like a fool afterwards. Cars running fine now, no codes, yet.
I tried to tell my Dad this about cheaper sensors at NAPA about a year ago for his Hemi Ram. He didn't listen & it DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM & I TOLD HIM CHEAP AZZ JUNK SENSOR, BUY NTK OR NGK. I had to buy him the DARN THING & IT RAN BETTER THAN IT HAS IN A YEAR, PLUS MUCH BETTER GAS MILEAGE. He is a believer now AT 80 YEARS OLD BUT STILL DRIVES IT LIKE HE STOLE IT, KRAZY OLE MAN. THANKS, SIR IVAN.
A TPS sensor is a simple device. There's no reason for the aftermarket to be problematic in this case other that willful carelessness on the part of the manufacturer of the part.
The crap quality of aftermarket parts never ceases to amaze me. This is a real and serious problem too. I don't know if you saw Scanner Danner's video earlier this spring Ivan but he went round and round with a car he was working on. He had a bad evap purge valve on a Hyundai I believe. He had to get OEM after trying at least two aftermarket ones that kept setting false codes. I think the conclusion for Paul and his brother was the aftermarket didn't have enough wire windings in it to allow the valve to work correctly. The crap quality of these aftermarket parts is inexcusable.
So basically the wide open throttle value with the crap sensor was shutting down the fuel injectors causing the no start. OEM all the way for electronic parts.
My thought was maybe the ECM saw high voltage from TPS and went into clear flood mode. I could be wrong though. I'm just a diy'er and never owned a Dodge.
Very good diagnostics! New does not mean good! Obviously this time proved that statement.
A shout out to that guy for helping other people that need help!
For us cheap B-stards, this is a hard lesson to learn!!! But I'm convinced OEM is the way to go. I've been burned so many times replacing coils, fuel pumps, O2 and AF sensors, etc., you'd think I'd have learned this lesson years earlier!!! Thanks, Ivan, for reinforcing a good habit!
I wonder what Eric O would say about this? Shout out to Good Karma Garage. You’re doing good in this world. Well done good sir. Another example of sticking to the basics, and understanding that new doesn’t mean good.
I've been burnt with cheap garbage sensors before, it's an incredibly painful lesson. It's factory OEM or nothing. If you're hell bent on throwing your money away better to waste it on a used OEM part! Fantastic diagnosis as always 👌🏻
Good fix, Ivan. That truck probably was in deflood more, thinking the pedal was floored, so the injectors weren't firing. That's probably why they replaced the fuel pump. Nice that those guys take care of people that can't afford it. Life is difficult without a safe, reliable car. Thanks!
Exactly what I thought when I saw that high tps reading at closed throttle an spinning fast:::clear flood mode! Bingo tps replacement
Please keep the videos coming. You are a great teacher, a brilliant diagnostics guy and you seem like a super nice guy. We appreciate you.
Another great diagnosis and fix Ivan! Agree, electronic aftermarket parts are always a hit or miss game, but more so on a miss on my experience. I always recommend to purchase original electronic parts to my clients though they may be a lot expensive, but will save them and me from head scratching down the line. Cheers!
Original parts are optimum, but buying them from a bricks and mortar dealership will typically add ~25% to the part cost. Ivan's videos give simple methods for testing parts before replacing them. Imo, that is what DIYers should pay the most attention to. A bullet is more cost effective than a cannon.
In this totally upside down world, it is such a pleasure to witness the diagsmith ply His trade and share with us. Thank You once again Ivan and hats off to Good Karma! 👍
Ivan, you are also helping people of all economic levels save money in maintaining their family vehicles. What's more, you are helping them to be self-reliant. You sir, are giving the greater gift. I commend your service to humanity. Merry Christmas🎄!
You are the magic man. I used the decade boxes when working on airplanes. That was a long time ago. Great piece of test equipment.
As Danner pointed out in his last video, we have NEVER seen it this bad with aftermarket parts. Electronics, gaskets, seals, bearings are all garbage Anything that is built by a non-OEM vendor is better off in the trash.
Not in all cases...many times the OEM is the problem such as head gaskets, timing chains, tensioners and cam phasers. There are cases that Felpro or Victor are a better product as is Cloyes Times chains are to OEM. Its a hard call to take a fairly new low mileage vehicle that has an early failure of some sort and think that the original OEM failed early, why buy another OEM? In many cases with Felpro/Victor they have upgraded gaskets long before the OEM does. But with electronics/sensors etc. it is a higher risk to not use OEM in most cases.
@@Garth2011 AGREED.
@@Garth2011: Agree. Fel-Pro great example.
It really doesn't matter who makes a part or where it is made. What matters is quality control. Every time shareholder value becomes more important than the pride in your product and work you will have a problem.
@@Minimalist1266 God I love this comment. What sets any product apart from design to manufacturing is pride. You can't fake pride.
This is a good example of how strange things can be even when opting for well known aftermarket parts such as NAPA. This is just unfair to the public. Even SMA would have been in trouble since that shop typically uses NAPA parts for many repairs. I guess the best practice is...test your new part before you install it.
Eric O got bit by that too on SMA. He always said, remember if it's new doesn't mean it's good, even from NAPA, not a sponsor. 😂
Napa still my "go to" place, or first choice, because of lower price. Somehow i instinctively run to the dealer though sometimes, when its absolutely got to work right
@@ahmadghosheh3104 Eric O's secret weapon is the U-Pull-A-Part place near his shop. When OEM is backordered and NAPA's sending Dorman, that's how you get OEM.
Basically the vehicle thought you were in clear flood mode. If it was an older car it would have started but would be idling at redline. Great video
Not with a cable throttle. Worst it would have done is open the IAC and idle high but nowhere near redline. An electronic throttle car also wouldn't do that because the pedal wouldn't be commanding wide open so it would go into some kind of limp mode and throw a code immediately.
@@kevin9c1 that’s correct
It was in "Clear Flood Mode". The PCM thought the throttle was wide open so would not inject fuel.
Getting a brand new defective part really messes with your mind and wastes your time.
Been burned way too many times by bad after-market electronic parts. I will only install OEM now. The only exceptions are Denso or Delphi coils/components (not branded with the the oem name like AC Delco) as they are the OEM mfg for those parts anyway. Always grateful for taking us along.
Great job on helping those in need. That is a big deal. Well done guys!
Fantastic diag, Ivan. Would love to be able to do the kind of work this gentleman is doing for lower income folks who need car repair.
The truth is that would be me, with the NAPA $25 sensor, and that's a shame it was junk! That guy is a wonderful man, with what he does. That's nice you volunteered your service for no charge!
Magic bit of diagnosis . I guess you are the hero of the day . Love your scan tool.
Well done Ivan. Good call and for a great cause..Cheers.
Yep. For electronic parts best to go with OEM brand. I learned that also for something as simple as points. Got after market and worked fine for awhile but then randomly would kill the engine, new Toyota dealer points worked and never happened again.
You are a good man and with all that trouble shooting knowledge definitely worth more than you weight in gold! Happy New Year!
Wow, that was great. It looked like it was in the ICU with all those wires and machines!!! Ivan you amaze me with all your videos, you are a master at your profession👏. ✌
Ivan, I ran across your channel after watching a few of Eric's and Rainman Ray's (Both great mechanics with a good moral compass) videos and it was the one where you joined in on the Hyundai case study, i think. I am just now seeing your website and I'm highly impressed with your story. You have sparked a new interest in automotive diagnosis and repair. I heard 30 years ago, shortly after i graduated HS that you'd need a computer and a 10mm wrench to work on cars. I should have listened 😉 but I'm able to keep 2 20 plus year old Dodges (2001 Durango SLT Plus 4.7L 2WD and a 2003 Dakota SLT 4.7 2WD). I learned quickly to only use OEM replacement sensors. Since my trucks are over 20 yrs old, NGK/NTK TPS, Cam and Cranks sensors and NGK plus and coil packs are what i use. Both trucks running great. Keep producing this wholesome entertainment!
Thanks!!!
So basically, the computer was reading the throttle at 100% so it went into "clear flood" mode and most likely killed the spark. Cool to know! Still a spark test would have been fun to do to prove it. Because if someone tested for spark... they might have gone down a different rabbit hole.
It typically isn't the spark thats cut off, it usually are the injectors. An engineer once told me they always cut off the injectors to prevent flooding the cats or cylinders with gasoline.
@@Simufreund309 By cutting off the technician meant "pulling lose the connector "?
@@loubakker5000 When in clear flood mode the engine computer won't fire the fuel injectors. That way the engine will crank but no fuel will enter the cylinders. Except of course if you spray the old brake cleaner down the intake. Then it'll run on that.
@@Simufreund309 Still, fuel pump can be tested by pulling the connector plug and put 12v on it, no ?
@@loubakker5000 yes
thank you for honest work in this situation !
Very smart work Ivan, appears that parts cannon was used a bit much at this garage, however, they do a great service for those who need the help..
This was a great piece of mechanic work and diagnostics.
Sounds like OEM nor aftermarket can make a good tcm! Obviously there was something wrong with the original! Hey Wes! I just got done watching your trans re-assemble video! Two of the best mechanics by far! I only wish I lived closer to bring you guys work!
Absolutely awesome. I have a 1998 dodge Durango 5.2l v8 that's doing the same thing. But will start after awhile.
14:00 shifting in to the high gear (decay box is out) ;D.Brilliant as always,cheers Ivan!
Absolutely awesome...
Very good educational video
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with some of us
Bro !!! WOW, best advice I've heard in a long time. For car electronic parts DO NOT, I REPEAT - DO NOT Replace with aftermarket parts. OEM Parts Only.
I found this out the hard way with the coolant temperature sensor on a LEXUS LS400 and a secondary repair that ended up in a coolant leak caused by a stainless-steel screw hose clamp causing a leak in the coolant, then overheating and never once did the After-Market temp sensor register my over temp. At one point I literally had frozen new spark plugs in the cylinders. I was cracking the ceramics on the plugs removing them.... It was only then that I realized I had no coolant. GOD BLESS LEXUS and that 1UZ-FE Engine.....
I still own that car today.....
great video ! With the throttle reading 100% it was probably going into clear flood mode every time it was cranked . This reminds me of Paul and his hate for napa purge valves when he kept getting bad valves.
Number one rule I learned back in the early 80’s when I enrolled in a local community college (for automotive diagnostics) was: a new part is only new for “five minutes “ after five minutes it’s subject to troubleshooting! And today, with these cheap/aftermarket parts being sold, O.E.M. Parts are the only way to go! Excellent video 👍
Great diagnosis and fix your at the top of your game Ivan👍
My take...cheap parts are not a bargain. You pay for what you get. There is a reason OEM or Exceeds OEM costs more.
What a shame, all the lost time & effort caused by bad replacement parts. Great save on your part, Ivan.
That mess was all down to the cannon not the ammo. If the original TPS had been properly diagnosed it would've been obvious the replacement was junk.
Excellent diag Ivan!
I'm sure the decade box is used just a handful amount of times per year, but even if you used it only once a year it allowed you to validate your findings of the bad sensor. This video (and diag) was superb, Ivan. A++!
Thanks Dave! It's really handy once in a while... Kind of like a pressure transducer 😉
Good job Ivan,love watching your videos here in mauritius island.
Good one Ivan. You get what you pay for. There are no bargains. JUNK. THANKS FOR SHARING AND STAY SAFE AND WELL
Great video Ivan Learning a lot from you Thanks.
Guess there are still good guys around. As soon as I saw those crazy tps values. I was right there with you my friend.
Excellent work!
Great lesson for everyone to sell their parts cannon. Excellent job as usual!
I guess Napa doesn't know how 🤔🙂
Just got a 2000 F350 7.3 dropped off for an intermittent crank no start/ dies while driving. The first time it came in it was 6 quarts low. Stopped shutting off after topping it off. Could be the same issue again but I discovered a recall for the cam sensor that I'm gonna check out. Either way, I'm going to first establish communication with the pcm, check for codes then follow the rest of the diagnostic troubleshooting protocol to verify the issue and repair it before verifying the repair is good. Thanks for another great video Ivan!
Look closely at the wiring bundle that runs from engine to middle of LH inner fender, then to PCM. They drop down and rub on the LF shock mount & inner fender. With cold engine pay attention to how long it takes for oil pressure to start reading. Oil pump wears out and loses prime. Pump is easy to change. If it runs, remove oil cap and flog it couple times. If it looks like a locomotive out the oil fill pipe...she' dusted. This should get you pointed in the right direction.
@@gailtaylor1636 Turned out to be the defective recalled cam sensor however I did find a broken wire in the harness above the LF wheel of a 2012 F250 6.7 which died cuz the power wire to the pump wore thru where it rubbed against the bottom of the battery tray which sure has some razor sharp edges on it like everything else under the hood made out of that plastic with fibers in it that aVe checks by cutting into whatever boltr tool he's got. Touche
genius man kudos to you,i remember when Napa was one of the best parts suppliers guess those days are over
This video helped me with a diag call. I was forgetting that the TPS needing a ground because it is a drop down type sensor. I had high TPS voltge and was tearing apart the harness looking for a short with another 5v reference. In this one it was a bad ground
Interesting. Just take readings on all 3 wires and make sure the signal voltage agrees with reported scan data :)
That is strangest diag ever lol. That cranking faster? It sounds like clear flood mode, as the tps gone wiggy, pushing the pcm thinking clear flood mode. Great job fixing that tps problem, i never trust aftermarket junk!! I always stay OEM! Now it's my motto now lol. Great video, ivan!
great job Ivan
Thanks Ivan!
That is a nice scan tool you have? Great job Ivan
God bless you Ivan. good job.
Very impressive troubleshooting!
Like the substitution resistance to tell the computer, it was in range and started, nice.
Thank you PHAD Great Video
I built a test bench for the throttle position sensors we sell. It does a 120 point test across the throttle opening. I made it because when we first had problems, I found out factories only do a 3 or 4 point test. We "sell aftermarket parts" but whenever possible, we perform 100% parts testing so we don't waste shop's or customers' time.
that's amazing what this guys doing.
Great diagnostician!!
Very very intresting work ivan.honest work for some good deeds.great
Now you’ve done it…Napa will never sponsor you! Great job!!!
It's a 4.7 in an old Durango, most people would just junk it. So it didn't really need the replacement fuel pump or the PCM? Good thing the owner didn't have to pay for that "diagnosis". True statement though on using OEM sensors, my 02 Chysler 300 with the 3.5 engine was eating up Camshaft position sensors prior to installing a OEM one. Good work!
I don’t believe it!! Actually, I was expecting a bad engine ground elevating all the sensors during cranking (when the high current from the starter raises the block a couple of volts). Such a waste of money replacing parts unnecessarily. Many years ago in my early 20s, I worked for a automotive parts store. People would come in and replace parts based on a code or the condition of a part. Then over and over again they would tell me the new part is bad when, of course, the real problem is electrical wiring connections or something else entirely. Great job Ivan!!
Been there, done that got the t-shirt. Faulty TPS was putting it in clear flood. The truck should have started and ran fine with the TPS unplugged. Maybe a hesitation but it should have run. Seen this a few times great diagnosis. 👍
Agreed just purchased oem oxygen sensors for my Dodge ram ran correct ever since..
Great video , really good info.
Really sharp. Wow!
Great video! I am nearly 100% sure that is a cheaper part from NAPA's cheaper "Proformer" line of sensors. That's definitely not NAPA's premium Echlin line. Many of the Echlin line sensors have the OEM name or logo on the sensor.
Love that computer reads thoughts of a person so advance love it :)
I really enjoyed this one Ivan, have you got a new clamp meter?
Hi Dan, good to hear from you! Yes it's the Astro AI DC amp clamp. Budget friendly and more stable than my old one 🙂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics how budget friendly ...
@@mrb1864 Search the 'net.
@@mrb1864 ... It's on Amazon for $23.99!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I bought an Astro AI multimeter and I love it!!
Nice Ivan.....Eric O also recently had a Naper parts fail.....
Complete junk! Yes!. My sister have a Mini Cooper and have a suspected thermostat housing that leaking. I recommended OEM part and these bwm parts are not cheap. I told her I don’t want install junk on cars especially her car. Great diag!! Learned so much from you and still learning.
Nice job Ivan!
Great channel. Great content
Great stuff. It probably would have been prudent to mention that the main reason the vehicle didn't start is because it thought the throttle pedal was to the floor which, in most vehicles, is clear flood mode. It either kills ignition, fuel, or both, but allows the engine to crank
Amazing how the aftermarket couldn't even get a potentiometer right. Seriously. Great work as always Ivan.
Big respect to Jeff and Good karma, this is an example just how deep down the rabbit hole people have to go with car companies that are not Noble and only looks out for their stockholders and screw their customers this is the reason why I make my choice 4 the Japanese automaker who looks out for their customers integrity with nobility and not just the stockholder screw the customer concept
Nice diag Ivan! Your teaching skills are priceless.
Merry Christmas 🤶!
Smart work and great
Good one Ivan. I just give your videos a thumbs up before I start watching because I just know. Just because a part is new doesn’t mean it’s good. Napa in my opinion has really gone down hill with quality parts in the last ten years.
I’m waiting to see if the ThinkTool pros goes on sale again for Christmas. I blew it and procrastinated at the last sale.
Makes sense the aftermarket parts our not designed like OEM the sweetness of low price is soon forgotten I have seen this in the 70's and 80's when we first started using more electronic parts . I had drivability problems even with ignition modules back in the day . They have to cut corners someway . The problem now is even worse because of the pandemic parts wise . Thanks Ivan simple and to the point .
Loved how you tricked the TPS with the Resistor Box. Another fine job, thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's not just Napa. All the major auto parts retailers sell junk.
Every were he goes this guy solves your problem . Pine Hollow problem fixer 👍🇺🇸
I have a 2002 Chrysler Concorde Lxi with the 3.5 V6. When I got it, I had to undo all of the cheap parts someone had stuck on it. Learned very quickly that it has to be OEM or find out who the OEM vendor was. A Bosch oxygen sensor doesn't heat up fast enough and throws a code but the original NTK works perfectly. Same with the thermostat, the spark plugs, etc. Rock Auto is very helpful in figuring that out. Made a huge difference in the performance and the gas mileage getting the right parts on it. It's a good running car with 254k on the odometer, but if I was still trying to drive it with the parts that were on it when I bought it, it would probably be in the junkyard by now.
The issue of crap parts is not just affecting modern cars but classics as well. Uncle Tony's Garage has done a number of videos along with other You Tubers dealing with brand new classic car parts that are totally useless. I've encountered this myself perversely from once trusted quality brands whose parts are indistinguishable from the generic crap that comes from chain parts stores. The main difference is you pay more for the box with the 20th Century brand name that we remember as the go-to parts back in the day. My '68 Plymouth Fury VIP has been having to fight that battle this year.
Which THINK tablet is it you use? I’m new to your videos and wanted to ask. You have probably mentioned it but I haven’t seen that video yet! Great work man!!