Crank No Start That No One Could Fix SBQM Free Video!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- 2009 GMC Sierra with a crank no start that several techs unable to diagnose but they are sure it's a Crank sensor signalling issue. Looks like they are right.
This video will be available for a limited time here just so the shop can watch the video on this channel- otherwise it will be on my paid content channel at www.schrodingersboxqm.com (Schrodingers Box Quantum Mekanix).
Download our free book while you are there!!
The Diagnosis and Understanding: Ignition Systems video is here: schrodingersbo...
Thought provoking intelligent content- delivered in a no fluff no nonsense manner. Logic applied over and over again. Thank you for sharing.
That was beautiful! When it comes to anything electrical, I'm dumber than a box of rocks. But with you, there is something about you that makes it so clear and understanding.
Thank you, that’s what I hope to achieve!! I’m most successful if you can do it!!
Good clip. well done. Eric O had a similar case over on South Main Auto a month or so ago. turned out to be the ground strap between the motor and the firewall completely corroded away.
BTY that connector is a called a ring connector, and that one is am “open barrel” design crimp. They take a special die to crimp, but they are better than the barrel type crimp electrically because they have more surface area between the crimp surface and the wire, reducing resistance of the crimp.
Hahaha I was trying to remember the name of the stupid connector lol!! Yes “Ring connector” was what I was looking for but my brain wasn’t working lol.
Good to see you back again btw.
@@SchrodingersBox I have shifted to working on marine diesel and boat issues these days. I was very pleased to see that a group of technicians wanted to see this clip as a learning device. I’m out there lurking most days.
Over a year ago I had to change the grounding wire clamp to the battery. It was running perfectly before and now been sitting ever since. I was about to sell it for $400 because I did not want to deal with figuring it out. I saw this video and now I got a couple buyers offering me $2000. Thank you so much!!
I've been in a mentally abusive relationship for 7 years now and been trying to get my truck running for the last 6 months thank you for your video and definitely help me get out of the relationship that I'm in and moved on to a better place❤❤
Well sorry to hear that but glad my video helped!!
Walk away 🚶♂️
I commend this guy for his ability to diagnose and articulate the issues clearly. He makes it easy to understand how the system functions and how to diagnose what to look for and where in the system. Excellent communication skills! I would love to know what scanner system he is using for this video.
Thanka so much. in this video i used an Autel MS909 scanner.
An absolutely great lesson. Thanks
Thanks my man great lesson
How easy it is to overlook the basics. Seems like whoever looked at it before you could not see the forest because of all the trees. Good no nonsense common sense diag there, thanks for sharing
Im into the same issue, crank but hard starting at cold start. thank you for this content and i will try this as reference.
This is generally cause most technicians think in terms of 12v plus, ignoring ground issues or get lost thinking obout sensors, your aproach is more efficient i loved this video, i work audio systems and a client mentioned a problem with his engine, it turns out another mechanic forgot to reconnect the physical batery ground so the car was taking ground though the engine block wow! i just recconected it and voila! the engine problem went away when other 3 shops couldn't find the problem
Thank you so much. I'm checking the ground on my 99 gmc 5.7. The way you explained this is 2nd to none.
Everett Garcia
Wichita Kansas USA
The ground on that 5.7 (at the T-stat stud) often get corroded, causing a large volt drop. I remove the stud, wire wheel the bolt, & run a tap into the manifold to clean the crud. I use a dab of Deoxit enhancer on the stud. Makes for a proper ground.
Thank you so much! Having the same intermitten issue with a 99 Dakota. I Have replaced fuel pump, sensors, & key electrics ..now I will look for a bad ground!
Thank you, amazing video, you are a great teacher 👏
Glad you think so!
Great diagnostic. I have a 2010 Silverado 5.3l with a similar issue, except I have a P0340 code. Ive checked wire integrity for the CMP and all is good, replaced CMP, still no start. Spent my whole Sunday trying to figure it out. This evening I`m going to go for fuel and fire. I have crank signal, but not CMP signal on scan tool. Thanks for this video. It gives me another direction to go with my diag.
yes on ANY crank no start I always follow my FASTEC method and it never fails to ultimately find the issue.
It is weird though your signal integrity was good on a 0340. what was the reference and signal voltage showing when you tested it?
@@SchrodingersBox reference was 5v. I don’t have a scope so I checked signal with multimeter, showed .150v- .20v while cranking. I’ve got a scope ordered, will have Wednesday, so I’m going to check it and get a waveform to see what it looks like.
You don’t need a scope you just need a basic DVom. Of course the reference is 5V- what’s the signal voltage showing when you ground it?
@@SchrodingersBox I’ll have to check that. I was hoping to work on it this evening, but didn’t have time. I did do a quick fuel system check with a shot of starting fluid, still didn’t start. I did notice it try to fire one time while I was cranking it.
A little background when it started to act up. I do a lot of towing with it. The last week or so I noticed an intermittent loss of power, especially while going up a hill. I did a full health scan Saturday morning to see if there were any pending codes that hasn’t tripped CEL, and only codes I had were for TPMS, which haven’t worked since I’ve had the truck. Saturday afternoon I went to the store and it was running fine except for a short loss of power one time. I shut truck off at the store, came out five minutes later and no start. Checked codes and had the P0340.
@@SchrodingersBox I’ve got 5v on signal. I checked at the sensor and ECM. I checked for fire. Nothing on signal wires at the coils I also just tried another CMP sensor just to be sure I didn’t get a bad one. CKP sensor shows about 180rpm when cranking but CMP shows 0 and also 0 on counter. I don’t have access to my alldata at home so Ive got to go to shop to look everything up. Going there now to get diag procedure for the coils.
This proves yet again, check the simplest things first and don’t be quick to throw money at it with new parts! Thanks ❤
electrical is the bane of the shadetree DIY
…and most professionals too, I have come to find.
I failed auto shop in high school. In my twenties and thirties, I always took my vehicles to a mechanic for everything.
At 46 I decided to learn about my truck and wanted to do everything myself. I’m 50 now, and I’ve changed my oil and filter, ignition coils, radiator, brakes, starter, wheel bearings, heater core, fuel filter and lines, wheel hubs,power steering pump👎(that one sucked)
And other tune up type stuff.
But this!!! This problem with truck has been a pain in my ass for so long I’ve called it a demon… like Christine.
Truck would start, sometimes it wouldn’t, when running the electrical system did whatever the heck it wanted to. Always resetting the system, and having to put in the code for radio and security, sometimes the idle was perfect and sometimes there was a slight hesitation… once in a while it would choke out. Even having to push the gas above idle to keep it running and not be stranded. Then it would run perfectly for months… and I run my truck. I’m always off road, in the mud, 4x4 driving( even fixed it when the actuator wouldn’t engage)
And pushing 75 down the gravel road in my 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 8 cylinders pumping… and doing donuts around corners… … … then it cuts out at the stop light on The way home… 🤔
After missing work today and troubleshooting it with this time, I concluded it has to be a contact problem. I need one of those testers… man that would help. What I did was, because my truck would loose power completely trying to start it this time, I left the key to on position… and started wiggling wires. I wiggled enough wires I was loosing hope.
That’s when I found this one wire under the motor… tucked neatly and hiding for protection… I think?
I found that f&@)%#!!! Wire.
But first I wanted to listen to a professional before getting ahead of myself. That’s when I saw this videos title. I’m soooooooo glad I did. You helped to answer the “why” and technical terms and how your breakdown/approach for this situation. The moment that you were at a loss, and nothing was making sense… thank you for that. I felt like an idiot because it took me so long to figure this out. Thank you for filling the voids so I can better understand what I’m doing.
I’ll finish this book now.
I felt damn good and I pumped my arms in the air too, when I figured it out. Not bad, for a journeyman
Carpenter/craftsman, that failed auto shop.
It was awesome what you pumped your arms in triumph!!! Sooooo cool
Yes , satisfying... wiring is my pet peeve ,.. usually because I had to work without a shop,,outside in the weather. ( Canadian winters)
I have always said the best mechanics are the disciplined, methodically follow procedures , they never skip around make assumptions most importantly never get cocky
The Disgruntled Mechanic-subscribed !
TY!
This sounds rather grand…..it’s not meant to. I bought a Bentley for peanuts, because crank no start. Everyone and his dog has tried before me…. Using your techniques I’m getting closer to solving the issue. But much more importantly, I now have the CONFIDENCE to solve the problem. Like most “enthusiasts” , the electrics must be be the most dreaded. With my £5 checklight, my one way buzzer, and my multimeter along with my new found CONFIDENCE … I’m ready. And yes, your right, when you solve it the feeling is often greater than the driving… I’m an accountant, and I can tell you I get more satisfaction getting something working than I ever did double entry book keeping - although, it pays better! Who needs golf?
Thanks for this video! I have a 1999 Porsche Boxster 986 . It has a crank and No Start . I will start with your direction with locating the ground points of this car. You have enlightened me with how the wires are running, in a general way. Hoping, I can get this problem solved. I do miss driving this car . Thanks again! I definitely will need to sign up for your other channel too!
February 2, 2023
Dario Villanueva
Thank you. I am sure you will solve the issue with your car.
Yes good stuff !!!!! Checking is gonna be your strong suit and it will make u that much better! Thank you.
Love your approach and my journey as a weekend laboratory(my garage lol) scientific diagnosis technician has definitely taken years. I am 55 years young and by the time i was 23 I figured out the value of a year specific service and repair manual was worth $300 in knowledge over a $17 haynes and $300+ in unnecessary parts. Cracking open that first one was like a zen Buddhist must feel when enlightened. No more "this is much too complicated for you take it to a qualified shop" from Alignment to complete Transmission rebuilds. It was the "RED PILL" of Auto. Escape from the wrench monkey matrix.😅
Awesome! Great way to check the 12 volt wire and signal wire and ground. That's awesome.
Glad you liked it!
Very clear explanation.
My Surf Hilux is not firing as this
You are soo good. Many thanks for the hard work you do for us.
A labor of love lol!!! It is fun doing this.
I am patting myself on the back I had this figured out before you! Always check the basics first! Years ago my friends Chevy Citation would die and all the lights would go out. I looked under the dash and found a common ground that was loose. He thought I was a great mechanic! (I’m not😮)
Pretty impressive- so how did you rule out that it had to be a ground as opposed to a a crankshaft position sensor problem that soon?
@@SchrodingersBox when I saw that you had power to all the places it had to be, it made sense. Electricity is simple. I am an overhead lineman and we know that if we don’t have good grounds , we have issues. Electricity just wants to complete the circuit. You had power to coil packs and injectors, but it wasn’t flowing through, ergo, bad ground. I’m not pretending to know a lot about this, I was raised on old school points and carbs but your deductive path was right on. If something doesn’t work, make sure it’s plugged in. If it’s plugged in, then why isn’t the current flowing? Thanks for the video. I’m presently installing an LS in an older car so the more I learn the better.
I'm here Schro! Show me!
thanks for the heads up ,some times we for get about Grounds
Awesome diagnostic job, I'm sure the one knucklehead will say "told ya so" GROUNDS check your GROUNDS I laugh so hard every time I think about you walking around screaming GROUNDS. Thanks for sharing, stay safe and God bless
Thanks man. Yeah that video became a meme didn’t it hahahaha!!
Great detective work Matt.
Hey great to see you back!
Very instructive as usully.
Now question s:
1. Why you didnt test power everywhere? Is it suffisant to test one coil and conclude the integrity of all the coil power side.
2. And why you didnt test ground everywhere as we knew it s a shared ground (maybe it is an open or bad ground between two coils ground wires and not the common ground return path ?
I didn’t need to test power everywhere because we had no spark but power on one coil and the power wire is the same for all coils. testing one tests them all. And I didn’t need to test each coil for a ground for the same reason- all the grounds are same wire so finding one open ground means all are open. hell I didn’t even need to test the ground at all. I know I have power. I know I input a signal. the IGF wire is irrelevant. the only thing left is the ground- it has to be the problem.
The old addage...90 percent of electrical problems is the ground. Thank you!!
Thanks for the video it fixed my only vehicle
Great video. You exsplaine d that really well
GOOD VID I SEE THIS ALL THE TIME(USE 4 GAUGE COVERED WIRE SOLDER EACH EYELET @ 2FT LENGTH.CLEAN BOTH TERMINAL PORTS)IE WHERE THE BOLT GOES IN
Great stuff 👍learned a lot from this video😊
I have a sneaking suspicion that I am dealing with a ground issue. I just inherited a 87 G20 van that has been sitting for 7 years. It'll crank but not start and no fuel pump prime. I'll have to go over the diagram and check all the grounds tomorrow after watching this.
Definitely a possibility. I would try putting 12V and ground directly to the pump and work backwards from there.
Atta boy Matt!!!! I'm buying you a test light for X-Mas. OTC 3633.
Thank you!!! I can’t wait for my new ScannerDanner testlight!! So grateful 😇
That's the "Not only am I better at this than you, I just proved it" dance. I do it a lot. I also add "I'm awesome, you suck. In your FACE!" while doing a slight moonwalk. I'm nothing if not humble.
You're awesome
I wished you lived closer
You were right got ahead of your self or at least checking the basics battery and ground same mistake others made
how would the battery possibly be the issue? what would you check as far as the battery that could possibly cause this?
@@SchrodingersBox
Not saying that the battery is an issue only that on any electrical system is battery or potential seeking a ground or earth to complete a circuit may you thought that a was taking about the car battery itself
What about power though. Doesn’t a component need power too? Not sure I follow what you are saying. How would you have first checked this?
I’ve got an intermittent no start at times will backfire only, then second attempt starts as should.
2002 Chevrolet Corvette vin G engine
Floyd
Ok what data do you have?
It IS very easy to go 'down the rabbit hole' when it comes to diagnosing a non running vehicle. WHEN a tried and true method works, attempting to stick with it IS usually the best.
I have a friend who had his vehicle basically parked because of a slooooow crank, then click click click.
Parts cannon ammo consisted of the usual....battery, starter, alternator.... Still same slow crank, followed by click click click.
He took it to a certified, licensed, blessed by the pope, card carrying member of the AAA and WKRP and the 'mcnick's' conclusion was a 'parasitic draw'....
All of this information I got while simply chatting with my friend over the phone.
I asked him IF he was going to be home the next day and had a good battery charger. I also asked him to disconnect the battery from the car so NOTHING would be 'draining' it while it was being charged.
He did all of this and the next morning I headed to his home where the car had been sitting, load tested the battery which passed no problem, and checked for the 'parasitic draw'.....ummmm no draw detected.
So I asked if he had a good set of jumper cables (which happily he did as I neglected to grab mine from home). hooked them to the negative battery terminal and to a 'factory lift hook' on the engine, I asked him to attempt to crank it over.
As he opened the driver door he said 'I'm pretty sure it'll crank because my dome light now works' He turned the key and it cranked over and started right up. As it was running I connected my analog volt meter to the battery and it was charging @14.5 volts. When I pulled the jumper cable it dropped to 14 volts.
Started checking the main battery cables and the main ground was located UNDER the battery tray... upon inspection 'green crusties' started at the main cable ring terminal and was found approx 3 inches up inside the cable itself (after trimming back the insulation.)
After the replacement of the cable, the car started WITHOUT the jumper cable 'band-aid' ground and the charging system was checked again. All passed. I asked him to simply leave the battery connected to see IF indeed, the bad ground was the only issue.
I called him the following day and all is well.
(I don't claim to be 'smarter than a fifth grader')....but yet, the super mecnik who gladly took my friend's money for an inaccurate diagnosis is still in business.....SMH....
EDIT:
The above diag. and repair was done Nov. 3.... I JUST got off the phone with him 5 minutes ago and he said everything is still working fine.
Beautiful, I think most 2 wire coils switches the ground ckt. in the PCM. What happened to the open primary ckt. code?.
Worked on a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 work truck that simply would not even crank over. I checked everything, every ground, every fuse, relay, sensor. Everything checked out good but still didn't have a crank. It was a very puzzling no crank no start issue. Then, one day, I thought about the truck being a work truck. Thought about rain and water being on the inside of it. There were no electric seats nor windows but, under the driver seat, there is an airbag control module. I cut the vinyl flooring that was over the module, found it to be extremely corroded, unplug it and hit the ignition switch and it immediately started. Plugged it back in and it went back to a no crank no start. Unplugged it, it started. Installed a new air bag control module and it cranked every time. Why they put any type of electronic part under the seat under the vinyl flooring I will never know. Took me weeks to figure that one out.
It must have been lacking power to the ignition from the beginning right?
And which wire you touched to verify the ground....afg or the pcm driver😊
I'm electrician I also repair my own vehicles enjoy the information thank you
Thanks for watching!
Lol look at the gr ground schematic you'd have to be a scientist to understand that good job schroedinger
Remember the late 60,s and 70;s v8 motors that were so basic. Now you have to be a mini Einstein to diagnose cars.
I also remember in the 70’s and 80’s that a car seldom made it to 100,000 miles. Now the first tune up is due at that time. No airbags. No antilock brakes. No vehicle stability. No navigation. Good mileage was like 14MPG. Emissions were over 50 times higher than now. Anytime the weather got unusually cold you had to put starter fluid down the carburetor hahahahah.
The technology has made cars way way way better and far more reliable.
Damn good u not lying I'm Dee nice from Detroit
Take the plugs out and reset them to about .010 and try it.
Old trick I used to do for severely flooded vehicles where gas- soaked porcelain would conduct and prevent spark.
not sure I understand how that would work when there is no spark on the vehicle??
@@SchrodingersBox if there is no spark ' power ' then forget it. It's a trick for when there IS spark power but the plugs are trying to short out. Mostly for flooded conditions.
why not just hold the pedal down to the floor while cranking to engage clear flood mode? seems way way way faster than removing and re-gapping and replacing plugs. also why even regap them- just crank engine without the plugs to clear it. or run it with fuel pump relay disengaged. seems awful lot of work to me to do all that
@@SchrodingersBox it's for those more stubborn floodings that those maneuvers won't clear. Mostly from the days of carburetors.
Just a last attempt trick I used to use.
One of my favorites was a time my brother flooded his 6 cylinder ford so bad in winter, it would sound like it was trying to start but would not. I was pissed at him at the time and wasn't helping him. He spent two days trying to get it going. Even burnt up a starter in the process. Then he went out somewhere and my dad asked me to help him. I tried the tiny gap trick and got it running in a short time. Took it for a ride to my friend's house and put the gaps back then took it home and put it back where it was.
When my brother came home my dad said " why don't you try your car again, I have a good feeling it might start "
He went out and started right up.
He didn't know what to think.
Yeah, look logically and scientifically at it though. It’s not the spark plug gap that’s doing it. It’s the time you are taking to do it because the cylinders are open. The spark plug gap narrowing actually would make it worse because fuel is a conductor, so you would be exacerbating the flood issue. But by taking all that time gapping the plugs you are evaporating the fuel more.
If you simply cranked the engine in clear flood mode you would accomplish this in 5 seconds instead of over an hour or more replacing plugs….TWICE.
Analogy: if my basement is flooded I would open the door to let the water out. I wouldn’t dim the lights. And if I opened the door to get to the light switch to dim the lights, it’s the door being open, not the dimming of the lights that actually reduced that water level.
You are truly good.
2004 HEMI 5.7 will not start on the initial start. Crank no start.I can get the Car started by spraying started fluid and manually opening the throttle body, runs nice , idles nicely. I can give it gas no reaction on the throttle body from the gas peddle. I can give it gas and air and it throttles up normal.
Was my first thought in the start. Sad more and more techs avoiding checking. Going right to the scan tool... Then tells the shop they need to buy a $12,000 scan tool to diag it. Same out come...
wanderfool tutorial thanks you somuch.
The first thing you should do when checking electrical circuit is to checking power and ground.
what else would you check?
Thank jou sher this video i have to find whu im gethin power at bleak wire
Wow thanks very interesting now all the new cars have very low quality wiring,defective sensors,computer that over heat nice to know !!!!
Thank you so much, maybe this could be the solution i was looking for all along or you can help. I have a Nissan Tiida MR18 it won't start since December 2022. The diagnosis is showing crank sensor but we have changed over and over again getting the same result. Tried the computer box but it is working as well. Now there is a wire that goes to the crank sensor which not producing enough 5Volts power like all others but we cannot find where the problem is. We have checked every power source and tested every sensor on the car and they're working. Still the car is not starting 😢
so what is the car missing- fuel or spark?
@@SchrodingersBox spark is there but very weak and not regularly per every cycle. Fuel is coming normally
Then you know the direction to go! If you have week spark just check the secondary resistance.
without watching or reading any comments I would say you have a lost ground somewhere as General motors ground issues are the most common failure. Bad grounds are extremely common especially in the north where they spray salt and other de icing chemicals on the roads during the winter. I would have first look at the ground you found, I am not a mechanic, just someone who keeps his own vehicles up.
And what are you basing that on as opposed to a fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, or a VVT issue all of which are equally if not more prevalent. How are you ruling out that it is simply out of gas?
Are you a Professor of automotive? Great video.😊
Thanks but no- I’m just a DIY that does this for a hobby. My real job is as a scientist.
@@SchrodingersBox superb look forward to your next video.
Yes very helpfull, fantastic thank you Sir
Awesome job Matt!
Thanks!
is it necessary to check current or is just voltage good enough
It depends on the application but obviously you can have voltage without current. If there is high voltage I suspect no current.
Hi, I came across your video, it was great, and the way you demonstrated it is appreciable. I have Mitsubishi Galant 2.4 ES 2008. it has performance issues. it will not speed up when I push the accelerator. it runs a little fine in the morning but after driving for 30 Km it starts to jerk, Missfire. I changed the fuel pump and cleaned the fuel filter, but no luck. Please guide me on what might be the possible reason. I have a code of P0300. Is it Crankshaft or EGR valve or something else?
Many thanks.
I always start with a fuel trim analysis as the first step so I can get a basic direction to start with. that’s always the first step as it prevents you from just randomly guessing at the 100000 things that can cause a 0300 code.
Where are u located I have a not start or crank but if u jump it starts no problem already replaced alternator and battery multiple times but if car sits over night or over 5/6 hours will need to be jumped
I’m in Denver. Sounds like a parasitic draw to me. Just isolate the circuit and then measure its amperage.
Awesome video
Great video I am still trying to find out why my car will not start. Maybe you can point in right direction. Car sat for 6 years. It's a 1998 Volvo S70 GLT. I cleaned out fuel tank, replace fuel pump and fuel filter. I cleaned injectors. Car cranks has spark and fuel out the injectors. I thinking must be a sensor where the timing is not lining up with the spark and injected fuel. Any thoughts
What is the compression showing?
I never checked the compression. I will check all 5 cylinders. What else should I be checking? Thanks for your insight
If there really is fuel and spark then you only have timing and compression left. Remember timing can be mechanical timing or ignition timing.
Yes there really is fuel and spark. I was thinking timing. Camshaft sensor. Worst scenario sticky valves. That's why I was asking you if there's a sensor I'm not thinking about that I can test. Thank you for helping
If a valve is sticking that would cause single cylinder poor compression. Not a no start. The idea all valves are sticking…. Maybe. Seems really unlikely. Compression is where I would go either way but I would more suspect any other reason- most likely bad timing.
Also you say there is fuel from the injectors- I am assuming of course you measured fuel pressure. If you didn’t I would actually start there. Fuel from the injectors means nothing if it isn’t at least 35PSI.
I changed my spark plugs , everything was running good car was running in driveway while I fixed some interior ;. After 30 min the car just stopped and hasn’t start since. Just crank no start
Sounds pretty easy. What data do you have?
@@SchrodingersBox as of today I did a spark check. 3 spark plugs don’t have spark and 1 does
That’s even better. Especially it’s pretty easy if all are on the same bank. Are the plugs that aren’t firing on the same bank? And if so are coils ground side switched or internal transistor? If they are internal transistor then they all share the same power and ground on the same bank so simply use a test light to confirm.
If they are ground side switched it’s even easier as you only have to check the shared power as you can’t have a whole bank fail individual ground side control.
yeah you got the scan tool and stuff, but why didn't check for the ground connection first?
One could ask Why not check fuel pressure first? Or Why not check spark first? Why not check cam sensor first? Why not check crank sensor first? Why not check the fuses first? Why not check the throttle body first? Why not check compression first? Why not check timing first?
@@SchrodingersBox you could leave cam & crank sensors off the check first list, since they got replaced twice already according to what you said. Anyhow, my initial comment was meant more as a joke, but maybe I'm not that funny.
Good job sir
Thanks!
What keeps the sarter relay keep clicking, and throttle body flap keeps flapping when u hook up battery and have crank but no start and no fuel on a 2009 chevy Malibu LT flex fuel, 3.5 with auto start?
What is the voltage drop on the starter showing?
Soon as you tested volt and had it. I thought youd tested resistance omhz whatever it's called and the multimeter should have told you no ground.to be honest guy threw me off saying it was all good because of the fuel because they both come from Cam I figured he knew more about there connection to say that but he solved it.. but it's a huge deal no one talks about the power of human suggestion contributing to the follies of mechanical work..it's 40 percent of the job at least
I have a 94 S10 Blazer 4.3 it's got a new complete distributor new plug new wires it has spark& fuel 60psi it cranks no start and it's my only vehicle I can't figure it out any help would be a help.
What is the timing showing?
Anyone can answer about what to use as the probe , Bobby pin?
Great work!
Ne subscriber for a good chanle that makes me learn mor obout fixing my car❤
Glad to hear!!
So which wire was that that you were going to jump that would've made the ignition coil fire? The signal wire?
correct!
@@SchrodingersBox hmm...I may have to pay that $3.49 a month
bet you spend more that this week on a coffee lol
"j" on the wiring diagram is a junction when connected by a dot. a connector should show two sides ">>"(or similar). commonly junctions are spot welded together. the g102 seems to be a fairly common problem on some of those vehicles. just to be anal very few vehicles have grounds and when they do its usually for static dissipation. vehicles have commons short for common conductor since the manufacturers save wire by using the metal of the frame and body as a return path. funny how the manufacturers cant even get that simple concept correctly articulated.
Correct you are, I misspoke.
Hi, I have an issue hyndai getz 1.6 HS 2007 model.Cranks but no spark and 12V to the fuel pump.Coyld you please help and tell me where to find you?
sounds pretty easy. is their ignition signal to the coil?
See, it was the GROUND☺
Haha the victory pose
I haven't seen any of your stuff in a couple years
I’m still around!! Also still on www.schrodingersboxQM.Com too
I have a good one for you. 2001 utility master p31 5.7 crank no spark all sensors and connectors checked good. So I plugged in my bosch step up from just CODE reader anyway. I plugged it into see if Tach rpms well as soon as it cranked it started up I unpluged the scaner back to crank no spark plug the scanner back in and the truck starts. So it turns out to be a bad ground
What ground would have been bad that a scantool is making connection through? No ignition sources go through the ALDL for ground as far as I know. Which ground did you repair?
@SchrodingersBox on the OBD port, there are two ground wires both should be grounded, but if one is open, it will ground it through the scan tool back to the ground that is good. From what I hear, this is a GM thing only. In short the scan tool completes the ground circuit
Great video and info..👍👍
Thank you, Professor!
You are welcome!
It’s funny i see this similar problem with our GMC Uhaul trucks
Interesting. maybe it’s a truck thing and the cars have the ground along firewall?
Love your screen name hahahaha!!
You used your head, applied your knowledge, and fixed the problem. Excellent, sir.
Thanks!! sure beats guessing
Knowledge is the ultimate power. Sometimes we get wrapped up in what we're doing we forget to go back to the basis
Great video and info..👍👍
Your classes have taught me a lot. I figured bad ground before you called it. Thank you for all you teach
Love your videos. I learn so much from your videos
Great video you remind me of Scanner Danner.. I've been a mechanic for 20 years, & I agree always start with power and grounds,, btw on Chevys is common to have problems with grounds especially with wiring traveling through parts that vibrate or under exhaust manifolds or close to them. My hat goes off to you sir for calling yourself a do it yourselfer, shows humbleness.👍
You deserve the best technicians award in the USA
Absolutely. Every dealership should have a diagnostic expert like this on staff!
as a 25 years auto tech i can tell you we learn everyday! if you are willing to!!!
So true my friend!!!
@@SchrodingersBox this video popped up in my suggestions and I can honestly say that I learned something. New Subscriber!!! Thanks for the tutorial.
I like your teaching sir God bless you
@@SchrodingersBox admitting your wrong when your wrong is the important thing unlike other people who find out what it really was and say oh I knew that all along you admitted your mistake and that’s very commendable I can see why they would of thought it was a crank or cam sensor your not stupid for not checking the ground first you were just performing tests don’t ever feel stupid for making a mistake we all make mistakes and learn from them peace for now my friend awesome video a lot of people won’t admit their mistakes you did that’s the important thing 😊
That's right we learn everyday...that's good troubleshooting...complex problem(s), simple solution(s); simple problem(s),complex solution(s). Very satisfying and rewarding when you solve the problem(s). Appreciate the vid mate n all comments. Be bless
Thanks for another interesting video. Quite coincidentally, this is the second video in a couple of days I've seen on the same subject. South Main Autos channel had a customer asking for a second opinion on whether he really needed to spend the $4000 being asked the manufacturer's main stealer to replace his entire wiring loom. After diagnostic investigation, he too just needed to replace a corroded earth strap on the underside of the engine.
I'll certainly agree with Matt that feeling never goes away, solving a complex problem than moving on to the next.
I agree as an electrician
Love your logical, rational approach to problem solving. Excellent job!
thank you!!
Great video great job as usual 👊🏻 I remember as a Chevrolet goodwrench technician back in the 70s 80s living in the rust belt those grounds were always a problem. But I never thought that was the problem on this one looks are deceiving . 👊🏻