DEAD BATTERY | How to FIND a Parasitic Battery DRAIN Using Multimeter!!!
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Battery dies overnight. How to find parasitic battery drain. In the video I show the normal method of pulling fuses with key off after connecting to battery. I also show a different issue that only occurred after I turned the key on.
Escalade, silverado, tahoe, Yukon, denali, suburban,
THE FIX!!! As mentioned in the video the "Driver door module" was bad. This is the window switch panel. I replaced the switch panel and issue has been resolved. Video removing panel here:
ruclips.net/video/CnQtqbWc6x0/видео.html
Once the circuit is identified, is there anything more that can be done with the meter to try to figure out the nature of the problem, before disassembling anything? such as bad switch, vs burnt actuator vs shorted wiring?
Wow! Excellent video. Thanks for posting it and "turning the key" and "being patient" were two key nuances in this video vs. so many other ones out there.
Was it because the lock wasn't hitting an end switch saying it was locked and therefore always providing voltage to the lock mechanism trying to lock?
Damn great video. Thx. You know your stuff. Electrical gremlins in vehicles can drive us nuts. 👍🙏👌🏆
Could connect your meter through ac10 Amp fuse if it doesn't already have its own fuse....
My man! 3 years in and this video is still complete gold! Not only did you walk me through the entire process successfully, but you also diagnosed my exact problem all the way down to the wife!
Haha.
lol very funny!
LOL ❤
I'm fixing my battery drain problem the caveman way, by disconnecting the negative cable on the battery when not using my 2004 GMC Yukon.
Dude, this is one the best videos tackling this subject I’ve ever watched. Not only are you thorough, but you are clear. I’d love to see you do more electrical troubleshooting stuff personally. I love it. And I love wiring. It is one of my favorite parts of working on cars. I know that probably sounds crazy to most of these folks, but I recall you saying that with your bg, you had an affinity for it as well. So please, sensei, teach away!
2years later, and this video was straight gold my guy! Thanks! Made me go buy a multimeter and find the problem my self!
I wish you were my neighbour .
Sensei, your valuable video help me out connecting the dots over diagnosing the issue of my Nissan Teana year 2010. Especially the part of waiting. Wish you the best in life !
Ted
What fixed the problem?
@@tedfusco3719 As seen ABOVE
THE FIX!!! As mentioned in the video the "Driver door module" was bad. This is the window switch panel. I replaced the switch panel and issue has been resolved. Video removing panel here:
ruclips.net/video/CnQtqbWc6x0/видео.html
As a veteran Mechanic of 19 years, this is by far the best test proceedure I have ever come across on youtube. Well done!
Thanks.
I totally agree!! I've been working on cars more than 45 years and no one has ever explained current draw troubleshooting any better! Maybe you should make more videos... Your thought process and technique are fantastic. Well done.
Agreement! Great video ty
Ĥ😊@@tonyturner9146
I got a question?
Old video, but a 45 year tech here. You did it correct, but there is a faster way. Your DVOM will let you test for voltage drop at each fuse, any fuse that has a voltage drop is drawing current.
Don't hang out or listen to people that tell you it's better to disconnect the positive battery terminal. They have NOOOOO idea what they're talking about. YOU are correct in why you disconnect the negative cable FIRST.....and for the exact reason you stated.
Thank you for thoroughly explaining exactly why patience is VERY important when troubleshooting electrical probs.
I know we all want to save money,but based on this it makes you understand why they charge so much trying to find issues like this. Brilliant video 👍
Huge thanks to your wife! Without her not mentioning the door lock upfront, we would not have got such a useful vid. ;-)
He handled that fantastically!!! He was very gracious to his wife… I would have been like… I have been working on this for 2 days and you tell me this now???? Thank you sweetie…. Go to the garage, cuss a lot, and get over it!!! Lol… It makes me appreciate this video even more!!!!
A test light works better than a meter, my Klein would not drop fast enough for you to be able to recognize the issue.
Great basic info video. Plain. Simple and understandable. Useful for more people and not over complicated. Too many people make videos for "look how smart I am" instead of "let me help you."
Quick tip to not put your meter at risk:
Instead of using the meter in series between negative terminal and negative cable when you cycle the key, use a jumper cable. Once you've cycled the key, connect the meter, and then disconnect the jumper cable. Vehicle still has power the whole time, but you avoid any potential momentary spikes which might blow the meter in the second or two after cycling the key. In theory, you could still blow your meter this way, but the biggest draws are usually momentary ones just after cycling.
You smart
Wow, such a valuable tip
Thasnk you, sir, for adding that valuable context. I had not figured that out yet.
I was thinking about doing that, but us guys like to take chances. I figured he got away with it, so why not. 🤣
Or you could leave the battery connected and use a quality amp clamp? I've used my amp clamp (must have DC amps) and a simple tone and probe kit to trace wires. Just another method maybe.
FINALLY SOMEONE WHO EXPLAINS IN DETAIL!!! Thank you for the help you rock!! 😎😎😎
My friend I’ve been a master tech for 45 years and I thought I was best but you blow me away that was great
Got me headed in the right direction. I’ve had a conversation with the other drivers in the house, that if anything looks weird or not right, let me know to help avoid two days of troubleshooting. Great video...you’re an excellent instructor and teacher.
You’ll never know truly how much this video makes my heart scream with hope
Saw on another video, the chap tricked the vehicle by keeping the door switch closed. Then you don't have to wait for the cycle time. Cheers
Most of the time when this happens it’s from leaving the window open while it’s raining. Once you find out what the problem is just take apart the drivers window switch and clean it with electronic spray and Q-tips. Most of the time it’s just corrosion and the problem solved.
Thank you for your valuable contribution to the conversation.
@@cliffordchamney2741 mmk "Clifford" lmao
Hands down the best video online on how to track down a parasitic draw. Anyone with the slightest mechanical/electrical inclination should be able to follow along step by step. Thank you for taking the time...
I agree, and flipping on the ignition for a sec, I don't think I would have ever tried that! Great content here.
Thank you for posting this video.
I really appreciate the people that take the time and effort to create and post these type of helpful videos.
I have solved so many problems using RUclips video.
Thanks.
You may have just saved me thousands of dollars because I live in a different country with demonstrably shitty mechanics, especially when it comes to electrical issues. Thanks so much for sharing. Subscribed so I can learn more.
Quick first pass check- after the vehicle has set for a hour+ with everything off, feel the relays and suspect any that are warm or hot.
Ah, the laying on of hands.
2006 Acura TL would drain over night. I few minutes on Google told me to feel the windshield just above the rear view mirror. Common problem on those was the hands free module located in the top, center console. Unplugged it and Yahtzee!
I was able to run my temp gun across the windshield and see the temp difference, but that got me thinking about Flir cameras. They check temperature across a wide area so you don't have to rely on a subjective, "is it warm" touchy feely.
Of course if its in a warm climate, you're screwed, but there are certainly times.
My headlamp relay was ticking, replaced, got hot, pulled it out and truck runs fine now... while in going to a stop the truck would almost die from power drain. WhT next
Thank you for that valuable tip.
If you have an unknown draw that might be potentially over 10A based on how quickly it kills a new battery, it might be worth using a current clamp if you have one, or making a current shunt out of some 14 to 12 gauge household wire. You can use that to bridge the connection and use your DMM in the millivolt voltage range to get an idea how high it is without the risk of blowing your DMM fuses.
My current clamps only do AC amps. I don’t want to invest in a DC capable clamp, even though my Fluke meter will do DC amps
I appreciate your straight forward and thorough approach to the troubleshooting you did. Thank you for sharing those little details that make it simpler and can keep you sane if your having trouble with things. Good job and thanks. Ill approach things that way next time and with patience! Lol
It’s a great example how to stay calm, think problems through step by step, to find a resolution. I think too many people panic, either thinking they don’t know/can’t fix issues or stressing how much it cost to have others do the work. Many times, if people will have enough faith in themselves to try they can be successful! 👍👍👍
Well said
So true most problems are solved by eliminating step by step process.
Bubba, You're golden. 5 minutes into your vid and you demonstrated, described, and detailed your video title immediately and clearly. Thank You For Your Time, Effort, & Generosity!!!
Thank you.
Most of these battery drains is really simple check to see if you have a stuck CD in your player when you turn the car off it will try to eject it all night long and you'll be dead the next day
Good tip to check! Mine does this.. how the hell do you get it out?
This is a comment I was looking for 👍. My #1 suspect is my stuck cd player . #2 is a dome light that I think just needs a bulb but could be more. Anyhow thanks for the comment.
So how'd you fix it...I have the same EXACT problem... same exact car
Great comprehensive video! Well done and thanks so much for the effort put into this. Patience is key with this issue.
You’re very good at making your videos I’ve been a mechanic for years but you showed me things that I didn’t know and I appreciate your videos. Good luck to you brother.
Hi, I just want to say that I have never gotten the necessary notion to comment or subscribe to ANY RUclips videos. I will occasionally thumbs up videos I enjoyed but that’s about it. With that said, I have to say I am genuinely impressed with your video. Very good job with not just giving clear and easy to follow steps and simple straightforward explanations of what was happening, but your ability to take an issue and with common sense (something way too many folks lack these days unfortunately) you use the process of elimination to find the answer to your problem. I’ve always had an open ear to anyone sharing their opinion or knowledge cause I truly believe you can gain knowledge from anyone regardless of age or disability or anything really. I’ve noticed I have always been able to see things from a different perspective and notice things most people overlook. And I feel like you know what exactly what I mean. But anyways I felt that I needed to share my ¢.2 on how well you did with this video.
Also I’m going to subscribe to your channel in hopes that you decide to continue making how-to’s like this one. Again awesome work friend, be safe and keep it up. 👍🏻
I don't do how to's all the time, I will if something comes up. More car building and racing stuff. Thanks for the comment.
My 2001 Impala LS with 20,000 miles on it, the battery would drain in about 2 days. I attached my meter like you did and pulled every fuse out, but the meter still showed a more than normal draw on the battery. Even when I pulled the radio fuse it still had a draw.. I found that the amplifier had a bad ground so I purchase a factory amp and that was the problem..
Guess that's why my mechanic told me to just put a Mechanical Kill Switch on the battery to prevent the overnight drain on it... my new mechanic also found through computer diagnostics that the Battery Charging Regulator was bad.
Great vid, well explained. I happen to have a 2000 Super Duty with a loss.....and drivers door power lock doesnt work properly. I would have never guessed the door lock could cause a long term loss but now I know how to check....THANX!!!
"It was nice for the wife to tell me the door locks were not working after 2 days of testing".. lol.. Great video. Thank you.
You’re so clever mate … very well explained
Next time lock and arm the alarm before testing you would have saw quickly the door lock wasn't operating properly
This video is better than my yoga clases for teaching me about patience.
Thanks Fella !!! Top Job.
Nice to know the quickest way to trouble shoot
Cant Fault ya !!
In the video I didn't notice if you mentioned the methodology you used for pulling fuses in order to narrow in on the offending circuit. My inclination would be to pull half the underhood fuses and measure current to see if any in that group are bad. Then replace half of the removed fuses and repeat measuring the draw. For example, suppose your underhood fuse box could be divided up into four quadrants ... I'd pull quadrants 1 and 2 and measure current. If the problem doesn't go away then one of the circuits in quadrant 3 or 4 must be the problem, so I'd put the quadrant 1 and 2 fuses back in and pull the quadrant 3 fuses. If the current draw drops off, the one of thhe quadrant 3 circuits must be faulty and, if not, then the bad circuit is in quadrant 4. Then dive down into the circuits within the offending quadrant using the same methodology.
Do you see any problems with that approach? Are there circuits that will act differently depending on the status of power to other circuits? For instance, could a problem not appear because your door lock circuitry used a relay powered by circuit A that is turned on and off by a module powered by circuit B and that relay closes the door lock solenoid powered by circuit C or something along those lines?
Seems to be a fast way to start getting close to the problem and then work on each fuse
Smart thinking 🧐
Wow, i truly learned something with that video! Great job! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much as a female who loves to work on her own cars I love to learn new things this video was the best and I understood everything and you where great explaining it thank you
Just curious, I have the same multimeter and I've never used the 10A setting. On that specific probe jack that you would plug your positive test lead into says it's unfused and to only test 10A/ 15 sec MAX and then you have to wait 15 minutes to let it cool down before you can test again. Wouldn't that damage the multimeter having it hooked up for that extended period of time or am I missing something?
Thanks. I learned so much, especially about patience. I had been using a clamp meter, which was just too erratic. I can also see that a lot of work was put into making the instructional video itself. Really appreciate it. I might be able to find the problem now. Just takes a rudimentary knowledge of amps on my part.
excellent clear video
One of the Best video, a higher level from the basic techniques of diagnosis for parasitic drain!! Surely a beneficial knowledge for DIYers!!
Don’t you just love GMs battery terminals.
Well done !! I did learn a lot watching your how-to. Thank you for your time.
Thank you so much I have been chasing my shorts instead of actually having a process that I should have considered God Bless & be safe
This video showed me why I never delved into becoming an electrician! I'll stick to nuts and bolts!!
Great troubleshooting video! My issue is the TBC BATT 10A Fuse to the top left of the fuse box. The problem is that I don't know what the Truck Body Controller Battery Feed is. Do you happen to know? Thanks
Wow! Thanks for the great pointer. Good analysis and investigation skills. You help us be better and get better at looking after our cars. Thanks a lot!!
Excellent content. My driver door lock also stopped working and my battery is draining. Hmmmmmm.
Outstanding. That is instructor-style learning. Thanks. I have one question, you started by just pulling the fuses without the key on and off. Then you did the key on and off. Were those basically two types of tests you did? I'm no electrician and I have a battery drain. I will use your method in checking for my drain.
I guess this will be the 380th comment. So chances are whatever im going to say has been said. So I'll end with a "This helped me find my issue in my 2008 Grand Marquis. Thank You.
Common sense approach to a fix by observation and cycling the ignition circuit! You rock dude!!!
Great diagnostic discussion. You went through all the steps we could expect to find to diagnose difficult situations
Where do you do if you have pulled all the fuses and the draw is still there?
Best parasitic draw vid out there. I've seen a few, and totally agree on being patient while everything goes to sleep. It does suck that the wife knew about the lock and you spent 2 days in troubleshooting. But an excellent vid came from it that will likely help a lot of people. 👍...still...no ice cream for her tonight. 😂
Well within grounds for divorce! :)
@@jjustinengineer 😂😂😂
I can't believe that no one suggested a clamp on DC Amp meter as the meter of choice. It is way faster than any other method of tracking down a current drain. They are available for less than 40 bucks on Amazon. You can clamp onto a bundle of cables right off the battery. If you see a parasitic drain, you can then quickly isolate which wire(s) has the drain. ALL WITHOUT DISCONNECTING ANYTHING!! Your method took days Vs minutes for using a clamp on meter to trace the draw. Of course you DID need to wait for the computer to go to sleep for your particular problem but a clamp on would have helped a lot.
Nice job. Knowing how equipment works is essential to effective troubleshooting. Now why does it have to be cycled by switch to activate the problem? Pulling fuse causes relays to drop out while cycling the switch allows them to stay engaged normally and allowing to ”see” problem in real time. Again excellent presentation!
Brother thaaaaank you! I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what's going on with my truck .. If I don't start my truck and let it run everyday for at least 20 mins it will kill the battery. I found out it was the same thing...
RUclips knew this is what I needed in my life. Great video
Dynamite, the rest of the comments here concur whole heartedly. You should do more instructive videos, as you are gifted and you are of great assistance!
that was crazy. and im here almost bought an alternator. and fuse thingking that would be the problem... its the power of diagnosis trick... i got a new battery 2 weeks old and it suddenly died on me at work.. i jump start it it works fine but it starts to lose battery felt like the alternator is not charging the battery..
So did you find and correct the problem?
Can use a 12v light bulb ,by seeing the Brightness of the light ,,to trace the possibility of current leak ..( suggest to use signal bulb ) .
Thank you very much for this video it was very informative I am a 54-year-old lady and I am going to try and figure out what's wrong with my vehicle
Thanks that's a good reminder about the accessory power on for 10-minutes radio time or whatever.
At 6:43, when he cycled the key, the meter read 17.xx amps. He could have blown the fuse or worse, the meter. He could have put a jumper between the meter leads just until he finished cycling the key to absorb the momentary current/amperage flow...
Ur on point bubba trust me on this tho get a Duracell Sam’s club battery screw durafart batteries they fail within 2 years Duracell Sam’s club batteries last 5-7 years
This is by far the best method I’ve seen. I quickly found my parasitic drain on my 1997 Honda CRV in the power door locks circuit. Coincidentally I missed it the first time but realized now my probe was plugged into the voltage terminal on my meter not amps. Now that I caught that mistake I was able to measure a 180 mA drain redoing this test. I pulled the 20A fuse in the fuse box under the hood and viola, dropped to just 25 mA. Since the power door locks quit working and I never lock my doors anyway I’m just going to leave the fuse out. Thank you! I don’t need to charge my battery every morning before going to work this winter.
That must have been a HUGE sigh when she said that.
thank you for this video, my envoy has a draw, so did my mustang. the only thing the same between them is my audio equipment. same headunit amps and speakers, took them out of 1 and into the other. im going to start there since its more obvious but now i know how to do it
I use a infrared thermometer,the Lazer shows were you are pointing at the fuse box to identify the hot fuse drawing the current. Sometimes you can trace a wiring heat to the short with the thermometer too,
Thank you for this video. I liked how you used your meter continuity test to tell witch terminal supplied power to the fuse block inside the cab. Also that you put the key forward to activate that current draw. The only thing I would do different is to use a DC inductive amp clamp neater for the parasitic drain. 🙏👍
I thought the same, as a clamp meter much easier, but 'milliamp' clamp meters are not cheap! And my standard clamp meter, just doesn't go low enough. 👍 Excellent video though.
Patience pays, very logical approach. Good trouble shooting to a complex fault,…..thanks
On the second day his wife decided to talk to him about his video. Gotta love married couples.
Great video. That was quite the electrical adventure. I'm definitely saving this for future use.
I typically work on old non computer cars and this just opened up a world of knowledge on how to track an electrical problem. Thank you very much. Never would have thought to power up then down like I was driving in order to charge the system then wait until it sleeps again to track down an issue. I will for sure use it on my 2001 VW which has a drain but one that takes about a week or two to drain the battery. I have the time to wait. I had always assumed it would just go to the proper level right away.
How do i fix my probkem....with my door left rear passinger
This electrical stuff drives me nuts. It is always so time consuming. This video is excellent! Thank for such a great lesson. Can you come to my house when I have electrical problems with my cars???
This was brilliant, thanks for the clear instructions and reasoning behind doing what you're doing. Will hopefully help me find the drain on my car!
I’ve got to start this. My brother was so frustrated by parasitic losses he installed a race car type kill switch next to the battery. My job after inheriting his Vette Is to find the gremlins. I’ll study this. My first target was to be the 40 year old grounding.
As a retired, certified electrician who also tinkers with low voltage systems it's refreshing to see someone use common sense to troubleshoot a problem. I don't have a parasitic drain but the title caught my attention. And I did learn something about vehicle systems, they need time to shut down. Thanks, good video.
2000 GMC Yukon, my amp draw turned out to be the circuit for installed communication. At one point the Yukon had a hands-free setup for cellular service, it was killing the battery within 48 hours or less.
Nice video on your parasitic draw!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice for the Mr"s to mention a problem with the door later on. By the way "the exhaust fell off yesterday". Just joking mate. Great video in solving a problem, thanks.
Hit every button the driver can reach (door buttons, dome light door sw, etc, ask driver about any issues prior to dead battery, lesson learned. Been there, the "oh by the way" the next day, oh THANKS for letting me know THAT in advance, CHEERS to your technique, good to watch video, keep them coming!
I really appreciate you taking the time to thoroughly explain the function of the multi meter and explain how the computer takes time to shut down. Very helpful and appreciated.
Thanx!!!
Thanks for sharing about the Key. That hasnt been an issue yet but I can see how It could start a long frustrating tail chase.
You helped me brother. My Silverado 1500HD started draining the battery. I was two days into this process and when I saw you find your driver door module fault. I jumped ahead to that step. GM like you , door switch like you, BINGO! I GOT LUCKY. Thanks a bunch. I subbed👍
Fricken awesome job! Very cool. I love this kinda stuff
In future consult ur wife before wasting time
SADLY I AM GETTING OLD AND MEMORY LOSS AND CAN'T THINK OR FUNCTION LIKE I USE TO .
IT SUCKS !
best explanation ever on how to find a parasitic drain. brian
As an Electrical Engineer I can say well-thought-out techniques. Thank you!
Very handy, and the most well explained on this difficult subject. Be patient, so says the master.
I've watched probably a dozen parasitic draw vids on RUclips and this is the best. I'm still trying to find the issue on a 2001 Lexus RX300 but I think your tip "WAIT" is probably exactly the thing I'm missing. Kudos and thanks for the video.
Thanks.
Thank You! That was tedious but I have located the offending fuse and circuit. It's the Stop lights. I also unplugged both of them in the trunk but with no joy. Time to start tracing wires etc. But I can pull a simple fuse and stop the battery drain while I locate the issue. I'll carry a pair of pliers with me and when I stop I'll pull the fuse. Don't need stop lights when parked 🙂 Thanks again for a comprehensive video!!!!!!!
What brand and model multimeter did you use?