fun story about how everything is related (especially on late 90s Chryslers). passenger side window regulator goes out on 02 Grand Cherokee while we're out of town. I artfully use a rubber mallet to hold the window up to get us home, and I just disconnect the main harness for the door so I don't accidentally force it and potentially do more damage. in addition to NONE of the power locks working, and the right rear window not responding, the dome lights stayed on. pulling the fuse for the dome lights causes the AZC climate control to not power on. given that only left windows worked, A/C did not turn on, and it was 80 degrees, I had to stop again and replace the dome light fuse. the next day I did what I should have done at first, and just disconnected the connector for the window motor.
Matt Hooker my 04 has done that multiple times. broken wire in the harness that goes to the driver's door will do that. Caused my AC to stop working, caused power locks to stop working, all 4 windows to stop working, all the lights on the dash to come on randomly, etc. Fixed the broken wire and everything worked fine afterwards.
i did something similar with a late model zj like the one in the video, i simply replaced my doorpanel. then the key fob didnt work, no worries i close up and go to bed. wake up at 5am to head to work, try to start the jeep and the alarm goes off. neighbors loved it. found out after a whole day of research and chasing wires,missed work btw, that the passenger door switch assembly(window switch and door lock switch) is where the sensor for the key fob is. also found out you cant disable the alarm in a 97 zj. and if you use the power locks to lock the jeep, the alarm arms and unlocking it with the key dosent disable it, only disarms using the fob or unlocking the rear hatch with the key for some reason. my jeep had the hatch lock cylinder replaced at some point before me and that key trick didnt work. has worked on my buddies 95 zj tho. yay chrysler. i sold the zj and have just have my mj now. and a honda lol.
I have been fixing electronics equipment for 40 years. I think this is the BEST real world troubleshooting video that I have ever seen. THANKS....GREAT...JOB!!!
I've also been in electronics and computer repair for 40+ years and I would have followed these exact same steps. I suspect a switch that is supposed be open when the hatch is shut is either stuck or shorted closed. Or possibly not getting physically pressed by the hatch.
@@wileypeacock6095 This is what I experienced. My back hatch switch circuit was not opening because the hatch wasn’t closing completely. My dash light was on, but I didn’t think that would drain the battery when the engine was off, but it did! Once I fixed the latch and the dash light went out, battery was healthy since!
I've had my car in the same repair garage for several years now, for the same fault, battery drain.. After having two new batteries installed within a short time, we paid for an electrical check by a car electrician, ovr £70 each time, the garage did other various checks. The electrician said no faults in the electrics, we were finding that the cooling fan was staying on after switching the battery off, this was intermittently. Then the garage fitted another new battery and a new alternator. Problem of battery drain continued. We'd charge the battery up and it would slowly drain, until the second or third week the battery would be drained. My car is 2002 vauxhall diesel 1.7. I'm so fed up. I've been giving the car a good run at least once a week, thinking I was topping up the battery but, this morning I went to start the car and the battery just made that dying sound, no start.
@kt1696 it's been 4 months since your post and I am wondering if you attempted his approach? I somewhat suspect that the shop electricians plugged your car into an electronic diagnostic port and downloaded any fault codes. Finding none, they said "no issues" found which very well might've been true at the time if there's an intermittent short that was not active at the time they tested
This video is 6 years old but has to be the best troubleshooting video of how to troubleshoot a parasitic draw. I did the one that has been pretty popular of how to locate it without removing the negative battery cable but that one has proven a bust. What I love about this video is you not only show how to set the multimeter and pull the fuses but you then also show how to go to the next step to narrow down where the draw is in case you still end up at a rather broad range of possibilities like the wire cluster that the fuse was connected to which in turn controlled the BCM which would have been a major pain to troubleshoot. Hopefully whatever is draining my battery now is something easy to locate, but better yet, easy to fix.
Now this is what I call in the teaching world "Direct Instructions"-- You had an opening (hook), you demonstrated, you walked through each step, you provided a visual, and you wrapped up (concluded) this lesson on how to locate a parasitic draw. I will be locating my draw in the summer months. Well done--this was EXEMPLARY!
Best 'parasitic draw' video evah, and one of the best uses of 15 mins. with my clothes on in my 74 years on this rock. Well done, sir. Thank you. Thumbed up. Subbed. Carry-on.
Nice job. Now this is a great example of a RUclips video done the right way. Good camera angles, light up dark areas. In focus. No shaky camera. Great narration that was easy to understand, without crazy background noises. And the cherry on top was taking it to a conclusion. After watching your video I actually believe I have a chance to find my parasitic draw on my 1999 Suburban. THANK YOU!
I watched this video yesterday before doing some work on my battery and today I helped a neighbour with a drained battery get her manual transmission car push-started and on her way. Since this video touched on a back door-release hatch not working properly, I looked for something similar when my neighbour's "door ajar" warning light stayed illuminated. Turned out her back hatch wouldn't close properly because of some fender damage that wasn't fixed and caused the door to jam opening and closing. To open it, she would pry with her fingers on one side and pop it open. To close it, she would give it a good slam. However, the electric switch to remotely open the hatchback was accidentally hit by her and since the door didn't pop open at the time, and she didn't notice the illuminated warning light, it stayed illuminated for days until she went to start her car today. Not exactly the same problem as the Jeep in the video but the knowledge gained came in so handy less than 24 hours later. RUclips University is great!
I spent a year taking electrical classes. Forty hours a week equivalent to 2 years Technical college. I had two incredible instructors and I learned a lot. However I have never understood how to troubleshoot the electrical system of an automobile this clearly explained the issue I was having understanding it. Dummy me kept thinking I would have to find the end of every wire one at a time and test them. No one has ever ever suggested checking fuses in this way. Thank you for sharing this information. I have a 98 dodge ram pickup that is drawing from somewhere. Now I can track it down without taking the dashboard off. LOL
Damn. Let’s get this person to 1 mil! Great video, clear, straight to the point but explaining as tho the person watching is a auto noob! Love this!!! ❤️
I’ve been through 3 batteries since January. This insurance company Snapchat that monitors your driving damaged my car!! Someone told me about Parasitic draw. I’m 71 so I won’t be able to do it, but I sure can get some one to do it😊 this was an Excellent video. I am very gratful❤️ Also you have very nice hands😂
Man I'm so happy I found this video. I've been bashing my head into the wall trying to find out what was going on with my 2002 Grand Cherokee for weeks.
This gentleman is a bloody genius. All other videos show you how to find the draw, just like this video and they stop. The difference is the 2nd half of this video. I pin pointed my radio as the reason for the draw. What is it in the radio pulling amps? Who cares. I just installed a kill switch. This dude saved me $100’s of dollars as you really are at the mercy of the repair shop. Thank you sir. Great video.
good tutorial, i learn something from you matt...thanks, other solution is disconnect the fuse, replace it with a 4pin relay, one of the pin of the fuse is constant (+) connect it to #30 (add a fuse) of a relay, other pin of the fuse to #87 of a relay, connect #85 of a relay to ground then the #86 (switch) of a relay to + acc from the fuse box (find one), its just by doing this the body control module wont have power supply when key is off (so it wont draw any power) but when u turn the key to acc or on it will supply power to the relay switch powering it on.
Genius Matt, been learning mobile solar electrical the last several months on YT and have 99% completed my own vehicle and camper solar upgrades, fully proud!! Now it’s intrigued me to learn more about vehicle electrics particularly fault finding as I will be travelling remote, I’ve read stories of a simple electrical problem has caused a vehicle to be towed hundreds of kilometres only to be sorted out in a few minutes by an electrician. Even if a problem doesn’t cause the vehicle to stop, waking up to a flat or near flat battery everyday can be a real problem if hundreds of kilometres from an electrician.
I really like the hands-on approach. Without your common sense approach, many will resort to wasting hours (and possibly $$) purchasing extra equipment and consulting Google without understanding the underlying circuits
Mat, after watching a few other videos, for me, I liked yours best. I used what I learned from you video and fixed my sons honda, and now, the car starts, even if it sits for 3 or 4 days. Thank you. Your voice is easy to listen too, and that's a bonis. Thanks again.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I get so tired of trying to locate DIY videos that are loaded with guys yammering about stuff instead of showing relevant content. After watching this, I'm ready to take a shot at my C4 'Vette's battery drain. Mine isn't terrible; I usually get 5 days before the power is too low to start, so I keep it on a trickle charger, but that's an annoyance. You've given me the confidence to go after it myself! THANK YOU!!
Your a genius, I have always turned to your videos over the years, cause your genius not only mechanically, but the way you explain things, in such detail. Your a great teacher. Thanks so much for your help over the years.
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else wants to discover battery reconditioning business try t.co/YpdloYO92F ? Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my neighbor got great success with it.
Excellent job. I feel more confident now in tracking down the parasitic draw in my '87 Chevy Silverado R10. Shop said it was an alternator and replaced it. I had a new batter in, and two days later it was dead as a wedge. I should of taken it back immediately. Thanks for the alternator that I didn't need. It was a birthday gift repair, and I didn't want to let my dad know it didn't solve the problem. LOL.
0:40 short-circuit in the wire somewhere. 0:58 DC Volts 20, make sure you have a good battery reads 12.6v+. 1:15 check terminal for excess corrosion. 1:34 turn to 10 amp (milliamps setting ideal to spot tiny draw), move lead to amps jack, attach leads. 2:10 disconnect neg battery terminal set aside. first turn everything off, close doors or tape sensor shut, then connect leads 2:48 connect one lead to terminal, the other to the cable that normally connects to it 'to get readings in between' the two. 3:00 on the 10 amp scale you should not read anything over 50 milliamps (.05 on 10amp scale). 3:30 now pull fuses 1 at a time until you find the one that drops the drain to 0.
Knowledge is Power! After watching your concise instructional video I feel empowered to get started on my friends Mercedes with APBD (annoying parasitic battery drain). I watched several other videos and they all assumed I knew how to use a multimeter. Knowing what it is and knowing how to use it is the difference between failure and success. I start tomorrow morning and plan on having an answer as to why this happens. Thank you , thank you, thank you !
I Have been struggling to find a battery drain in my 86 ford ranger. Most videos on this subject are to technical. This video is down to earth and common sense.
Excellent video with a fair paced description on what to do. A lot of videos are made by people who’ve done this a million times and they blast through it and you don’t have time to understand or they just don’t thoroughly explain. Thank you!!
I hate chasing electrical gremlins!! Your no bullshit videos with your mono-tone voice gives me a zen and am able to fix my problems without putting holes in my shop walls...thanx!
Great Job!! Chasing down a parasitic drain is tedious and definitely requires rigorous step by step, one piece at a time checking. You demonstrated this beautifully!
Excellent Detective work I learned a Ton. My neighbor across the street gave his Old Jeep Cherokee to the Junk Yard after it killed a couple of Batteries, because he was afraid it would be to expensive to Fix. But his also needed some engine work. I think now it was the same problem!!!
Matt you got me !! I just bought a used late model 2018 Kia Sedona with 28,300 miles and 3 years on the warranty. I had no trouble until 3 weeks after I bought the car. The battery went dead. So, I jumped it, went to AutoZone, found out had a dead battery and replace it. 2 Days Later the battery went dead again. I jumped it, went AutoZone... same drill and the battery... alternator and starter are fine... so I have a parasitic battery draw !!! Darn it !!! Why does this happen to me ?? So, I've watched about five videos on parasitic power draws and yours is pretty good 👍. I can see it's not going to be as easy as I would like,...but maybe not that bad. Thank you so much for your demonstration/ explanation and teaching. I really do appreciate it and I'd probably be lost without RUclips gurus like yourself. I spent all my money on the car and I can't afford a mechanic now. By the way I hate electronics too !!!
So. These videos were super helpful and I learned a lot! Did all the tests. Batt voltage good, alter test good, no more than .022 draw. So why am I not starting in the morning? One big thing that no one mentions in the countless videos I’ve watch is the battery’s “cold crank amperage” My battery is suppose to have an 850 cold and 1000 warm crank start amperage. I had it tested at our parts store and it’s reading was 350! Not even close to what it’s suppose to be. So solution? New battery. Done and done. I absolutely thought my battery was fine because a shop “tested” it and they said it was fine. Well just like myself all they tested was it’s Voltage. That’s not the only battery test clearly needed
Matt, I've been a long time viewer of your videos. Not only because I have an XJ of my own, but because a lot of vids like this one, apply to more than just jeeps. I've been wanting to know how to do this ever since your first video on the cheap jeep's battery dying. So thank you for making such high quality and in depth videos
Thanks bro. You explained it in the way that I can understand clearly. This stuff’s been a pain because every night I have to undo the battery post to keep the battery from dying. It’s good though because I’m headed to the garage to fix rn. Thanks again. May Peace & Blessing be upon you & family. Fix it rn. May Peace & Blessings be upon you and your loved ones.
Went and got a harbor freight multi meter like in the video. Didn't notice that I picked up the 5 amp model by accident, the wires melted. My 2000 XJ has been a wild adventure so far. LOL
Excellent work my friend. You have solved the problem I have with parasitic draw. ...same as yours, that draw was coming from somewhere in the group going to the rear hatch sensor.
That was a great video on tracing down a short causing battery drain. I like that you had no music going, spoke clearly and showed each step as you went. Thanks for taking time to give us all some helpful information!
One of THE BEST fault-finding videos i have ever seen. I had a "05 Jeep Cherokee and it had sooo many electrical faults i traded it in on a Mazda CX9 - best thing i ever did. I wish i had seen your video before getting rid of it. The dealership could not fix the faults !! The transmission would drop into 1st gear from 100klm on it own !! nearly killed me. I will use your tips to fault find an issue on a vw /subaru conversion that drains the battery. Thanks
This finally helped me solve this issue on my WJ. Mine was the rear driver side door ajar sensor. Confirmed the parasitic draw, tracked it down to connector C1, pin 10. Clipped that wire and the draw dropped to zero. Since I had the seat and all trim pulled anyway I went ahead and patched in a new wire from the panel to the connection at the door. Everything works perfectly again. Thanks a ton dude. Great channel, one of my absolute favs.
Fixed my problem! It was the connection on my rear hatch latch. I unplugged it and voltage dropped from 0.22 to 0.02. BleepinJeep has helped me out whenever I can’t figure it out myself. Thank you BleepinJeep!!
Just an FYi(cause I didnt see it in the video nor the comments), The Security system relies upon that back hatch being closed, and if it senses that it isnt closed; the Body Control Module never 'goes to sleep' after the system arms itself(3 min after door lock or engine off and doors closed). The late model ZJ's were notorious for this flaw, and many times the BCM burns out because of it.(too many hours being on). I had this issue for some time. The alarm would go off at strange times during the night/day. The fix(if you do not have the flipper glass on the hatch) is a simple $2.00 switch/part that fits into the hatch mechanism. If the flipper glass is present: there is another plastic piece that helps the car know that the window is closed or open. Also quite cheap if you can find it.
if the BCM never goes to sleep, you will find a parasitic draw much like what you have in your 98 GC. There is also a quick fix for the hatch mechanism sensor. You just clip the sensor out of the circuit in the rear by cutting the two wires to the sensor(in and out of the mechanism) and simply crimp or solder them together. This fix will always send a circuit 'closed' to the BCM but will allow your rear hatch or flipper glass to be opened whenever without the alarm being triggered. Also a fun fact, the rear locking mechanism also controls the power feed to the rear wiper. If one or both of the sensors in the back hatch are in an 'open' signal the rear wiper will not work. The relay system will not allow the power to get back there for the wiper to do its thing. For other ZJ owners out there: Cherokeetalk and Jeep Forum have tons of info and friendly ZJ owners ready to help.
Finally a commenter that has a clue about why a rear hatch sensor/switch is important and why the BCM should be left operational and not disabled... Is he going to tell his insurance company he's modified the vehicles alarm so it is no longer effective? I doubt it!
Wish I had seen this video before I had an auto electrician who come out and suggested we buy a solar panel to keep the battery charged, he did not say what could be the trouble.. after this video I did what you said and found the problem.. thank you....
Great video and tips Matt! Would have come in handy when I had my 98ZJ with the same problem. LOL, I spent hours trying to figure out where my draw was.
By far your practical video is the "BEST" one I noticed and actually used to troubleshoot my p/u truck issue and eliminated the battery discharged. Thank You Very Much
Great video, and spot on regarding how almost everyone can perform a faultfinding like this and to come up with a solution / remedy. Again, thanks a lot .-)
I don't have a jeep and I don't have any electrical problems in my classic 1999 Isuzu Rodeo or my classic 1992 Ford F150, but in older vehicles, strange problems do pop up from time to time. I found this video very informative and was impressed by his savvy way of figuring things out without fancy test equipment or diagrams
Saw your video on TV and had to get on my phone to give you a big thumbs up for this video. Great detail and to the point. No cursing nor talking about nonsense. BTW, my 2005 Grand Cherokee has a latch on each side of the rear door. The warning Rear Door Open would come on/off at times. Didn't realize the right latch wasn't fully engaging. So now I just put a bit more pressure til I hear that side click. Problem solved.
This is a great and informative video, I like the method of testing between the male and female parts of the connectors for current. I do have a question, how would one perform this same type of test on the type of fuse boxes that are hard wired in like some of the auxiliary fuse boxes and some manufacturers also have them hard wired with no connectors
Useful reply but it doesn't answer their question. Just saying I'd like to know how to test them if they are built in. My only answer is to barely peel a tiny piece of plastic off of the wire to be able to test it, or all if it takes it, then just use electric tape around the places you done it, idk just an idea
I've not tackled a parasitic draw problem in 30 years. I knew it as a high resistance short to ground problem. So I'm rooting around seeking different or modern troubleshooting techniques. I did some preliminary work seeking the cause of a 12.5 amp draw, but I must retrace my steps. I did not bother pulling fuses under 15 amps, and a couple secured under screwed in clamps. Will retrace my steps...... by the numbers, and using schematics and a deeper dive as needed. Untill I nail the problem I'll just disconnect the battery. Thanks again.
Great video Matt. You're a very good teacher. Ever think about taking rings & watches off when working around cars...esp. electrical? Ever see an injury from a shorted out ring? This safety stuff was ingrained in me while serving as an acft electrician in the AF.
Years ago I was replacing a headlight bulb on my Ford. The pos post of the battery was located quite close to the metal of the front fender area. So when I reached between the battery and the fender to replace the bulb my wrist bridged the gap. I was wearing a wrist watch at the time with a metal watch band, so the watch band bridged the gap between the pos post and the sheet metal, creating a dead short and many amps around my wrist. I tried to flip the watch band off of my wrist with my other hand but it was so hot I couldn't touch it. After jumping around and flailing my arms I finally got that watch band off of my wrist. I developed a permanent scar where the watch band went around my wrist and I can still see that watch band 40 years later.
@@charleswilson4598 ouch I bet that only happened once. I once pissed on an electric fence after a dare it burnt my hair and schortched my balls and made me shit in my coveralls
Fantastic video. My son has a Toyota 4 Runner and is having problems with parasitic battery drain. We plan to use this video this weekend to troubleshoot his problem. Thanks for a great video!
Before cutting the purple wire you can remove it from the plastic block with a straight pin. slide the pin next to the wire. on one side will be a release letting the wire free from the block
Great trouble shooting, very helpful! the back hatch sensor gets out of adjustment inside the hatch, lots of people have that issue... causes the alarm to go off too.
Perfect Video! For someone that doesn’t know a lot about wiring/meters... it helped me out tremendously. Couldn’t have asked for a better video. Thanks Bud!
BINGO! Bleepin Jeep, I had weeks of my battery being drained overnight. Battery wasn't even a year old. 2007 Chevy Impala LT. I found an assessor y device wired up to the battery. It was a "Rust Neutralizer device. Claimed it stops the car from rusting. I removed that, wires and all from the car. Load tested the battery and alternator, all good. Car starts every time now, no dead battery.
Very well made video. Very informative. Now I can go fix my 2007 Jeep wrangler. Mine is the M13 fuse which also controls many things. Damn computers. I hate them too. The only thing good about them is being able to watch videos like yours. Thanks.
Great video . Well articulated , informative , and easy to understand. Definitely a thumbs up. THANKS ! It helped us a lot , and we appreciated the effort that you put in .
I have a problem with. My 94 Chevy S-10 battery go dead after a week of not driving fairly new battery , checked and replace alternator every thing was good let set for week no start dead battery , thanks for sharing your talents going to be doing so testing
Thank you so much for your video, I had a battery draw and bought a multimeter to figure out what’s going on, I looked at multiple different videos on RUclips and all of them were vague and didn’t really break down step by step what to do, I find your video and was able to finally diagnose the problem correctly, thanks again!!
Matt the real pain here is not in your head, it's in your ribs /shoulders/back/neck the day after spending 5hrs bent double in the dam footwell trying to find the problem! Ahhhh! Been there done that! Sometimes I even sing to myself I love my jeep I love my jeep when it's taking forever to find the bleepin problem!!
I haven't used all data but I'm sure the wiring schematic you could probably find there would have told you what was on that #7 circuit and when you traced the wire like you did it'd tell you what it controlled, instead of just cutting it you could have unplugged the back hatch sensor pin thing to test it that way, (probably ideal for "important" things compared to cutting and resplicing when it isn't needed) then you don't have that live wire just dangling and if you found a decent sensor somewhere down the road you could just throw it in and be fixed right.... plus the wiring schematic may have gave a clue to where the wires run incase of a break/short somewhere inline that could be fixed.
Matts a smart boy. he'll probably just use it to power a dummy led theft deterrent light as a cheap security system for the cheap jeep. Problem solved.
Excellent video.. i did just what you said and as i rolled through the fuses on my '90 YJ i figured that nothing was going to take that voltage to zero.. THEN i pulled the DOME fuse and 0.00. What a beautiful feeling... now onto the next step. Thanks again for your help man
My wife had a parasitic draw in het TJ. She likes learning so she did it herself. I offered to help teach her but... Her reply? "I have a date with Matt" I watched a rerun of CHiPs with the dog. 🤔🤔🤔
Praise God for men like this! Ty for taking the time to do this! You will be repaid for your kindness here one day! The Gospel of John, when you're ready!❤️
Great video. I checked the vehicle diagram. The wire you cut (violet) is pin 8 of that connector. It is the input power to the Auto Headlamp Light Sensor (VTSS LED); located on the top of the dash. It gets its ground from pin 23 (BLK/LT GRN) "Lamp Driver" at the Body Control Module (lower left of dash). In case you wanted clarification to where it leads.
The headlight sensor and LED is located on the top driver side dash. You can carefully pry up on the part of the dash that surrounds the LED and daytime light sensor. This component is held on by one screw. Remove and disconnect or replace. If left unplugged, headlights will have to be manually turned on when sun goes down. This faulty component will also cause the headlights to randomly come on even when the ignition is off.
fun story about how everything is related (especially on late 90s Chryslers). passenger side window regulator goes out on 02 Grand Cherokee while we're out of town. I artfully use a rubber mallet to hold the window up to get us home, and I just disconnect the main harness for the door so I don't accidentally force it and potentially do more damage. in addition to NONE of the power locks working, and the right rear window not responding, the dome lights stayed on. pulling the fuse for the dome lights causes the AZC climate control to not power on. given that only left windows worked, A/C did not turn on, and it was 80 degrees, I had to stop again and replace the dome light fuse. the next day I did what I should have done at first, and just disconnected the connector for the window motor.
Pretty crazy that pulling a wire for your door can cause the A/C not to work, but I believe it after messing with this stupid thing!
Matt Hooker my 04 has done that multiple times. broken wire in the harness that goes to the driver's door will do that. Caused my AC to stop working, caused power locks to stop working, all 4 windows to stop working, all the lights on the dash to come on randomly, etc. Fixed the broken wire and everything worked fine afterwards.
i did something similar with a late model zj like the one in the video, i simply replaced my doorpanel. then the key fob didnt work, no worries i close up and go to bed. wake up at 5am to head to work, try to start the jeep and the alarm goes off. neighbors loved it. found out after a whole day of research and chasing wires,missed work btw, that the passenger door switch assembly(window switch and door lock switch) is where the sensor for the key fob is. also found out you cant disable the alarm in a 97 zj. and if you use the power locks to lock the jeep, the alarm arms and unlocking it with the key dosent disable it, only disarms using the fob or unlocking the rear hatch with the key for some reason. my jeep had the hatch lock cylinder replaced at some point before me and that key trick didnt work. has worked on my buddies 95 zj tho. yay chrysler. i sold the zj and have just have my mj now. and a honda lol.
Dru W i also have a 97 ZJ... fob works but alarm doesn't. I know if I try to fix it, 3 other things will break
If you think it was the hatch why didn't you unplug it and see if it stops. Instead of cutting wire.
I have been fixing electronics equipment for 40 years. I think this is the BEST real world troubleshooting video that I have ever seen. THANKS....GREAT...JOB!!!
My professors had to say it twice before l got it...this guy..l could have listened with eyes closed n still got ..kudos
What are you saying .....BEST EVER
Best way to wakeup a bunch of modules and then your chasing your own tail!!! There is a better way!!!
I've also been in electronics and computer repair for 40+ years and I would have followed these exact same steps. I suspect a switch that is supposed be open when the hatch is shut is either stuck or shorted closed. Or possibly not getting physically pressed by the hatch.
@@wileypeacock6095 This is what I experienced. My back hatch switch circuit was not opening because the hatch wasn’t closing completely. My dash light was on, but I didn’t think that would drain the battery when the engine was off, but it did! Once I fixed the latch and the dash light went out, battery was healthy since!
I´m a mechanic. This is one the best videos I´ve ever seen. Very well explained. Perfect troubleshooting. Good job
I've had my car in the same repair garage for several years now, for the same fault, battery drain.. After having two new batteries installed within a short time, we paid for an electrical check by a car electrician, ovr £70 each time, the garage did other various checks. The electrician said no faults in the electrics, we were finding that the cooling fan was staying on after switching the battery off, this was intermittently. Then the garage fitted another new battery and a new alternator. Problem of battery drain continued. We'd charge the battery up and it would slowly drain, until the second or third week the battery would be drained. My car is 2002 vauxhall diesel 1.7. I'm so fed up. I've been giving the car a good run at least once a week, thinking I was topping up the battery but, this morning I went to start the car and the battery just made that dying sound, no start.
@kt1696 it's been 4 months since your post and I am wondering if you attempted his approach? I somewhat suspect that the shop electricians plugged your car into an electronic diagnostic port and downloaded any fault codes. Finding none, they said "no issues" found which very well might've been true at the time if there's an intermittent short that was not active at the time they tested
Your the first person who allowed this information to sink in. Thank you so much!
Me too! Love bleepin jeep!
This video is 6 years old but has to be the best troubleshooting video of how to troubleshoot a parasitic draw. I did the one that has been pretty popular of how to locate it without removing the negative battery cable but that one has proven a bust. What I love about this video is you not only show how to set the multimeter and pull the fuses but you then also show how to go to the next step to narrow down where the draw is in case you still end up at a rather broad range of possibilities like the wire cluster that the fuse was connected to which in turn controlled the BCM which would have been a major pain to troubleshoot. Hopefully whatever is draining my battery now is something easy to locate, but better yet, easy to fix.
Now this is what I call in the teaching world "Direct Instructions"-- You had an opening (hook), you demonstrated, you walked through each step, you provided a visual, and you wrapped up (concluded) this lesson on how to locate a parasitic draw. I will be locating my draw in the summer months. Well done--this was EXEMPLARY!
He's one of the best for jeeps forsure
Best 'parasitic draw' video evah, and one of the best uses of 15 mins. with my clothes on in my 74 years on this rock. Well done, sir. Thank you. Thumbed up. Subbed. Carry-on.
Thanks!
Nice job. Now this is a great example of a RUclips video done the right way. Good camera angles, light up dark areas. In focus. No shaky camera. Great narration that was easy to understand, without crazy background noises. And the cherry on top was taking it to a conclusion. After watching your video I actually believe I have a chance to find my parasitic draw on my 1999 Suburban. THANK YOU!
I watched this video yesterday before doing some work on my battery and today I helped a neighbour with a drained battery get her manual transmission car push-started and on her way. Since this video touched on a back door-release hatch not working properly, I looked for something similar when my neighbour's "door ajar" warning light stayed illuminated. Turned out her back hatch wouldn't close properly because of some fender damage that wasn't fixed and caused the door to jam opening and closing. To open it, she would pry with her fingers on one side and pop it open. To close it, she would give it a good slam. However, the electric switch to remotely open the hatchback was accidentally hit by her and since the door didn't pop open at the time, and she didn't notice the illuminated warning light, it stayed illuminated for days until she went to start her car today. Not exactly the same problem as the Jeep in the video but the knowledge gained came in so handy less than 24 hours later. RUclips University is great!
Glad I could help!
I spent a year taking electrical classes. Forty hours a week equivalent to 2 years Technical college. I had two incredible instructors and I learned a lot. However I have never understood how to troubleshoot the electrical system of an automobile this clearly explained the issue I was having understanding it.
Dummy me kept thinking I would have to find the end of every wire one at a time and test them.
No one has ever ever suggested checking fuses in this way.
Thank you for sharing this information. I have a 98 dodge ram pickup that is drawing from somewhere. Now I can track it down without taking the dashboard off. LOL
Honestly the best video on parasitic draw. Detailed instructions and very clear and easy to follow. Well done sir.
Damn. Let’s get this person to 1 mil! Great video, clear, straight to the point but explaining as tho the person watching is a auto noob! Love this!!! ❤️
I’ve been through 3 batteries since January. This insurance company Snapchat that monitors your driving damaged my car!! Someone told me about Parasitic draw. I’m 71 so I won’t be able to do it, but I sure can get some one to do it😊 this was an Excellent video. I am very gratful❤️ Also you have very nice hands😂
Man I'm so happy I found this video.
I've been bashing my head into the wall trying to find out what was going on with my 2002 Grand Cherokee for weeks.
This gentleman is a bloody genius. All other videos show you how to find the draw, just like this video and they stop. The difference is the 2nd half of this video. I pin pointed my radio as the reason for the draw. What is it in the radio pulling amps? Who cares. I just installed a kill switch. This dude saved me $100’s of dollars as you really are at the mercy of the repair shop. Thank you sir. Great video.
good tutorial, i learn something from you matt...thanks, other solution is disconnect the fuse, replace it with a 4pin relay, one of the pin of the fuse is constant (+) connect it to #30 (add a fuse) of a relay, other pin of the fuse to #87 of a relay, connect #85 of a relay to ground then the #86 (switch) of a relay to + acc from the fuse box (find one), its just by doing this the body control module wont have power supply when key is off (so it wont draw any power) but when u turn the key to acc or on it will supply power to the relay switch powering it on.
Genius Matt, been learning mobile solar electrical the last several months on YT and have 99% completed my own vehicle and camper solar upgrades, fully proud!! Now it’s intrigued me to learn more about vehicle electrics particularly fault finding as I will be travelling remote, I’ve read stories of a simple electrical problem has caused a vehicle to be towed hundreds of kilometres only to be sorted out in a few minutes by an electrician. Even if a problem doesn’t cause the vehicle to stop, waking up to a flat or near flat battery everyday can be a real problem if hundreds of kilometres from an electrician.
Just by showing how to set up the Harbor freight multi meter(which many people have) helped me tremendously.Great Vid.Thank you
Right? I was thinking about all the harbor freight multimeters I've seen in most of the videos I've watched 🤣🤣🤣 I've got my own, too
That a freebie item ,so everyhaborfreigh has one of those.
@@scottvan1898 yep, got it for free too
Best $ 6.49 cents I ever spent for a tool
The Harbour Freight Meter actually Brought me Here! lol Great Video
One of the Best How to Videos on solving parasitic drain!! Straight forward, less talk, direct to the point!!
This is one of the best instruction videos i've ever seen, Thanks Very Much !!!
sure, thanks for watching!
Adam Pawianek this video made me feel certifiable
or diag the rear latch but what do I know right.
Agreed
love it thank u
I really like the hands-on approach. Without your common sense approach, many will resort to wasting hours (and possibly $$) purchasing extra equipment and consulting Google without understanding the underlying circuits
Mat, after watching a few other videos, for me, I liked yours best. I used what I learned from you video and fixed my sons honda, and now, the car starts, even if it sits for 3 or 4 days. Thank you. Your voice is easy to listen too, and that's a bonis. Thanks again.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I get so tired of trying to locate DIY videos that are loaded with guys yammering about stuff instead of showing relevant content. After watching this, I'm ready to take a shot at my C4 'Vette's battery drain. Mine isn't terrible; I usually get 5 days before the power is too low to start, so I keep it on a trickle charger, but that's an annoyance. You've given me the confidence to go after it myself! THANK YOU!!
Your a genius, I have always turned to your videos over the years, cause your genius not only mechanically, but the way you explain things, in such detail. Your a great teacher. Thanks so much for your help over the years.
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else wants to discover battery reconditioning business try t.co/YpdloYO92F ? Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my neighbor got great success with it.
Excellent job. I feel more confident now in tracking down the parasitic draw in my '87 Chevy Silverado R10. Shop said it was an alternator and replaced it. I had a new batter in, and two days later it was dead as a wedge. I should of taken it back immediately. Thanks for the alternator that I didn't need. It was a birthday gift repair, and I didn't want to let my dad know it didn't solve the problem. LOL.
0:40 short-circuit in the wire somewhere. 0:58 DC Volts 20, make sure you have a good battery reads 12.6v+. 1:15 check terminal for excess corrosion. 1:34 turn to 10 amp (milliamps setting ideal to spot tiny draw), move lead to amps jack, attach leads. 2:10 disconnect neg battery terminal set aside. first turn everything off, close doors or tape sensor shut, then connect leads 2:48 connect one lead to terminal, the other to the cable that normally connects to it 'to get readings in between' the two. 3:00 on the 10 amp scale you should not read anything over 50 milliamps (.05 on 10amp scale). 3:30 now pull fuses 1 at a time until you find the one that drops the drain to 0.
This guy is a very smart young man , He gave me a good lesson on tracing faulty wiring.
Knowledge is Power! After watching your concise instructional video I feel empowered to get started on my friends Mercedes with APBD (annoying parasitic battery drain). I watched several other videos and they all assumed I knew how to use a multimeter. Knowing what it is and knowing how to use it is the difference between failure and success. I start tomorrow morning and plan on having an answer as to why this happens. Thank you , thank you, thank you !
Did you find the problem? I have an MB with an APBD.
I Have been struggling to find a battery drain in my 86 ford ranger. Most videos on this subject are to technical. This video is down to earth and common sense.
Excellent video with a fair paced description on what to do. A lot of videos are made by people who’ve done this a million times and they blast through it and you don’t have time to understand or they just don’t thoroughly explain. Thank you!!
I hate chasing electrical gremlins!! Your no bullshit videos with your mono-tone voice gives me a zen and am able to fix my problems without putting holes in my shop walls...thanx!
Great Job!! Chasing down a parasitic drain is tedious and definitely requires rigorous step by step, one piece at a time checking. You demonstrated this beautifully!
Excellent Detective work I learned a Ton. My neighbor across the street gave his Old Jeep Cherokee to the Junk Yard after it killed a couple of Batteries, because he was afraid it would be to expensive to Fix. But his also needed some engine work. I think now it was the same problem!!!
Thanks for the best class so far I have seen in this regard. more power to you
The very best video on solving this type of problem! Easy to follow sensible guide to fixing a mystery drain. A big thumbs up!!!
The fact that some people gave this video a thumbs down is really sad. Thanks for this video, good stuff man!
Dear sir
I enjoyed the video.
You showed from A to Z and without shortcuts,that way even someone without knowledge can check those things.
Thank you
I learned so much from this video. the whole trouble shooting process was as real as it gets, thank you mate.
Matt you got me !! I just bought a used late model 2018 Kia Sedona with 28,300 miles and 3 years on the warranty. I had no trouble until 3 weeks after I bought the car. The battery went dead. So, I jumped it, went to AutoZone, found out had a dead battery and replace it. 2 Days Later the battery went dead again. I jumped it, went AutoZone... same drill and the battery... alternator and starter are fine... so I have a parasitic battery draw !!! Darn it !!! Why does this happen to me ?? So, I've watched about five videos on parasitic power draws and yours is pretty good 👍. I can see it's not going to be as easy as I would like,...but maybe not that bad. Thank you so much for your demonstration/ explanation and teaching. I really do appreciate it and I'd probably be lost without RUclips gurus like yourself. I spent all my money on the car and I can't afford a mechanic now. By the way I hate electronics too !!!
Great job. Very simplistic and easy to follow, you're a natural teacher. Thank you for your time and sharing valuable info!!
The Mr Rogers of the off road world. Great video. thanks
I liked that disruption of that '' thing a-ma-bobber.''
So. These videos were super helpful and I learned a lot! Did all the tests. Batt voltage good, alter test good, no more than .022 draw. So why am I not starting in the morning?
One big thing that no one mentions in the countless videos I’ve watch is the battery’s “cold crank amperage”
My battery is suppose to have an 850 cold and 1000 warm crank start amperage. I had it tested at our parts store and it’s reading was 350! Not even close to what it’s suppose to be. So solution? New battery. Done and done.
I absolutely thought my battery was fine because a shop “tested” it and they said it was fine. Well just like myself all they tested was it’s Voltage. That’s not the only battery test clearly needed
Matt, I've been a long time viewer of your videos. Not only because I have an XJ of my own, but because a lot of vids like this one, apply to more than just jeeps. I've been wanting to know how to do this ever since your first video on the cheap jeep's battery dying. So thank you for making such high quality and in depth videos
no problem, thanks for being a cool fan!
XJ?
Thanks bro. You explained it in the way that I can understand clearly.
This stuff’s been a pain because every night I have to undo the battery post to keep the battery from dying. It’s good though because I’m headed to the garage to fix rn. Thanks again. May Peace & Blessing be upon you & family.
Fix it rn. May Peace & Blessings be upon you and your loved ones.
Thank you so much sir, This was one of the most helpful videos I've watched. You kept it simple and step by step 🙏
Hands down, THE BEST video I've seen for troubleshooting a parasitic draw. Thank you!!
That right there is some usable information.. Thanks Matt!
6 yrs and still impressing with your wisdom.. cheers
Brilliant man, had a drain for ages , I think I found it through this method , appreciate your time posting this ..great stuff
European sarcasm? Maybe?
Went and got a harbor freight multi meter like in the video. Didn't notice that I picked up the 5 amp model by accident, the wires melted. My 2000 XJ has been a wild adventure so far. LOL
Excellent work my friend. You have solved the problem I have with parasitic draw. ...same as yours, that draw was coming from somewhere in the group going to the rear hatch sensor.
That was a great video on tracing down a short causing battery drain. I like that you had no music going, spoke clearly and showed each step as you went. Thanks for taking time to give us all some helpful information!
Great video. You have a knack for practical mechanic work and explaining it in a way people can follow.
One of THE BEST fault-finding videos i have ever seen. I had a "05 Jeep Cherokee and it had sooo many electrical faults i traded it in on a Mazda CX9 - best thing i ever did. I wish i had seen your video before getting rid of it. The dealership could not fix the faults !! The transmission would drop into 1st gear from 100klm on it own !! nearly killed me.
I will use your tips to fault find an issue on a vw /subaru conversion that drains the battery. Thanks
What a useful video! I don't have a jeep, but I do have a couple old cars that I'm maintaining. Thanks, Matt!!
This finally helped me solve this issue on my WJ. Mine was the rear driver side door ajar sensor. Confirmed the parasitic draw, tracked it down to connector C1, pin 10. Clipped that wire and the draw dropped to zero. Since I had the seat and all trim pulled anyway I went ahead and patched in a new wire from the panel to the connection at the door. Everything works perfectly again. Thanks a ton dude. Great channel, one of my absolute favs.
This is a fantastic tutorial, love your style, clear, direct and concise, I learned a lot, thank you!!!
Fixed my problem! It was the connection on my rear hatch latch. I unplugged it and voltage dropped from 0.22 to 0.02. BleepinJeep has helped me out whenever I can’t figure it out myself. Thank you BleepinJeep!!
Glad it helped, great job on the fix!
@@bleepinjeep love y’all!! You have helped me out a lot with y’all’s videos. Keep up the great job. Y’all are awesome
Just an FYi(cause I didnt see it in the video nor the comments), The Security system relies upon that back hatch being closed, and if it senses that it isnt closed; the Body Control Module never 'goes to sleep' after the system arms itself(3 min after door lock or engine off and doors closed). The late model ZJ's were notorious for this flaw, and many times the BCM burns out because of it.(too many hours being on). I had this issue for some time. The alarm would go off at strange times during the night/day. The fix(if you do not have the flipper glass on the hatch) is a simple $2.00 switch/part that fits into the hatch mechanism. If the flipper glass is present: there is another plastic piece that helps the car know that the window is closed or open. Also quite cheap if you can find it.
if the BCM never goes to sleep, you will find a parasitic draw much like what you have in your 98 GC. There is also a quick fix for the hatch mechanism sensor. You just clip the sensor out of the circuit in the rear by cutting the two wires to the sensor(in and out of the mechanism) and simply crimp or solder them together. This fix will always send a circuit 'closed' to the BCM but will allow your rear hatch or flipper glass to be opened whenever without the alarm being triggered. Also a fun fact, the rear locking mechanism also controls the power feed to the rear wiper. If one or both of the sensors in the back hatch are in an 'open' signal the rear wiper will not work. The relay system will not allow the power to get back there for the wiper to do its thing. For other ZJ owners out there: Cherokeetalk and Jeep Forum have tons of info and friendly ZJ owners ready to help.
Finally a commenter that has a clue about why a rear hatch sensor/switch is important and why the BCM should be left operational and not disabled... Is he going to tell his insurance company he's modified the vehicles alarm so it is no longer effective? I doubt it!
Wish I had seen this video before I had an auto electrician who come out and suggested we buy a solar panel to keep the battery charged, he did not say what could be the trouble.. after this video I did what you said and found the problem.. thank you....
Great video and tips Matt! Would have come in handy when I had my 98ZJ with the same problem. LOL, I spent hours trying to figure out where my draw was.
By far your practical video is the "BEST" one I noticed and actually used to troubleshoot my p/u truck issue and eliminated the battery discharged. Thank You Very Much
Great video, and spot on regarding how almost everyone can perform a faultfinding like this and to come up with a solution / remedy. Again, thanks a lot .-)
I don't have a jeep and I don't have any electrical problems in my classic 1999 Isuzu Rodeo or my classic 1992 Ford F150, but in older vehicles, strange problems do pop up from time to time. I found this video very informative and was impressed by his savvy way of figuring things out without fancy test equipment or diagrams
whoo, that scene with pulling fuses was tense, like a real hollywood masterpiece 🍿
Matt Matthew I like when Matt say “I hate computers”
Saw your video on TV and had to get on my phone to give you a big thumbs up for this video. Great detail and to the point. No cursing nor talking about nonsense. BTW, my 2005 Grand Cherokee has a latch on each side of the rear door. The warning Rear Door Open would come on/off at times. Didn't realize the right latch wasn't fully engaging. So now I just put a bit more pressure til I hear that side click. Problem solved.
This is a great and informative video, I like the method of testing between the male and female parts of the connectors for current. I do have a question, how would one perform this same type of test on the type of fuse boxes that are hard wired in like some of the auxiliary fuse boxes and some manufacturers also have them hard wired with no connectors
Useful reply but it doesn't answer their question. Just saying I'd like to know how to test them if they are built in. My only answer is to barely peel a tiny piece of plastic off of the wire to be able to test it, or all if it takes it, then just use electric tape around the places you done it, idk just an idea
I've not tackled a parasitic draw problem in 30 years. I knew it as a high resistance short to ground problem. So I'm rooting around seeking different or modern troubleshooting techniques. I did some preliminary work seeking the cause of a 12.5 amp draw, but I must retrace my steps. I did not bother pulling fuses under 15 amps, and a couple secured under screwed in clamps. Will retrace my steps...... by the numbers, and using schematics and a deeper dive as needed. Untill I nail the problem I'll just disconnect the battery. Thanks again.
Great video Matt. You're a very good teacher. Ever think about taking rings & watches off when working around cars...esp. electrical? Ever see an injury from a shorted out ring? This safety stuff was ingrained in me while serving as an acft electrician in the AF.
Years ago I was replacing a headlight bulb on my Ford. The pos post of the battery was located quite close to the metal of the front fender area. So when I reached between the battery and the fender to replace the bulb my wrist bridged the gap. I was wearing a wrist watch at the time with a metal watch band, so the watch band bridged the gap between the pos post and the sheet metal, creating a dead short and many amps around my wrist. I tried to flip the watch band off of my wrist with my other hand but it was so hot I couldn't touch it. After jumping around and flailing my arms I finally got that watch band off of my wrist. I developed a permanent scar where the watch band went around my wrist and I can still see that watch band 40 years later.
@@charleswilson4598 ouch I bet that only happened once. I once pissed on an electric fence after a dare it burnt my hair and schortched my balls and made me shit in my coveralls
Yep....never wanted to get caught wearing rings, jewelry, etc on the flightline.
U.S.A.F. Weapons Specialists
F-16
A10 Warthog
Fantastic video. My son has a Toyota 4 Runner and is having problems with parasitic battery drain. We plan to use this video this weekend to troubleshoot his problem.
Thanks for a great video!
Before cutting the purple wire you can remove it from the plastic block with a straight pin.
slide the pin next to the wire. on one side will be a release letting the wire free from the block
You can do that or just leave the fuse out as it's probably exactly the same circuit he's disabling (NOT FIXING)
Well done video. Good explanation without rambling; clear shots to make it easy to see each step.
Great trouble shooting, very helpful! the back hatch sensor gets out of adjustment inside the hatch, lots of people have that issue... causes the alarm to go off too.
Jeff Chappell how do you re-adjust it? That's mine too. About 2am my alarm will go off for no reason.
here is a good writeup Brian: www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38617
Perfect Video! For someone that doesn’t know a lot about wiring/meters... it helped me out tremendously. Couldn’t have asked for a better video. Thanks Bud!
Hey Matt thank you, very thorough and informative..
BINGO! Bleepin Jeep, I had weeks of my battery being drained overnight. Battery wasn't even a year old. 2007 Chevy Impala LT. I found an assessor y device wired up to the battery. It was a "Rust Neutralizer device. Claimed it stops the car from rusting. I removed that, wires and all from the car. Load tested the battery and alternator, all good. Car starts every time now, no dead battery.
YOU THE MAN THANK YOU SO MUCH IT HELP ME A LOTS
Best parasitic drain test explanation yet. I think now I can diagnose my problem. Thank you!!!
Thank you so much! Going to do this tomorrow.
Very well made video. Very informative. Now I can go fix my 2007 Jeep wrangler. Mine is the M13 fuse which also controls many things. Damn computers. I hate them too. The only thing good about them is being able to watch videos like yours. Thanks.
Great video . Well articulated , informative , and easy to understand. Definitely a thumbs up. THANKS ! It helped us a lot , and we appreciated the effort that you put in .
best vid ive seen yet step by step no fast talking and skips great vid
Best video on this subject. Very detailed and thorough. Thank you. Move over Chrisfix.
I have a problem with. My 94 Chevy S-10 battery go dead after a week of not driving fairly new battery , checked and replace alternator every thing was good let set for week no start dead battery , thanks for sharing your talents going to be doing so testing
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO...
Thank you so much for your video, I had a battery draw and bought a multimeter to figure out what’s going on, I looked at multiple different videos on RUclips and all of them were vague and didn’t really break down step by step what to do, I find your video and was able to finally diagnose the problem correctly, thanks again!!
Matt the real pain here is not in your head, it's in your ribs /shoulders/back/neck the day after spending 5hrs bent double in the dam footwell trying to find the problem! Ahhhh! Been there done that!
Sometimes I even sing to myself I love my jeep I love my jeep when it's taking forever to find the bleepin problem!!
Excellent video, found my draw in about 4 minutes, factory radio was causing the problem. Thanks keep making these types of helpful videos!!
Glad it helped
When he start to using a metal pin to connect wire I knew he is one of us . LoL 😂 job well done !
Had a battery draw issue for 7 month and paid £270 to 6 different Mechanics without any luck then a 14 min video found issue thanx
I haven't used all data but I'm sure the wiring schematic you could probably find there would have told you what was on that #7 circuit and when you traced the wire like you did it'd tell you what it controlled, instead of just cutting it you could have unplugged the back hatch sensor pin thing to test it that way, (probably ideal for "important" things compared to cutting and resplicing when it isn't needed) then you don't have that live wire just dangling and if you found a decent sensor somewhere down the road you could just throw it in and be fixed right....
plus the wiring schematic may have gave a clue to where the wires run incase of a break/short somewhere inline that could be fixed.
Matts a smart boy. he'll probably just use it to power a dummy led theft deterrent light as a cheap security system for the cheap jeep. Problem solved.
AceBoy2099 alldata is pretty sick ive used it alot
@@ericg3354 $$ cheap jeep
Excellent video.. i did just what you said and as i rolled through the fuses on my '90 YJ i figured that nothing was going to take that voltage to zero.. THEN i pulled the DOME fuse and 0.00. What a beautiful feeling... now onto the next step. Thanks again for your help man
My wife had a parasitic draw in het TJ. She likes learning so she did it herself.
I offered to help teach her but...
Her reply?
"I have a date with Matt"
I watched a rerun of CHiPs with the dog.
🤔🤔🤔
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Praise God for men like this! Ty for taking the time to do this! You will be repaid for your kindness here one day!
The Gospel of John, when you're ready!❤️
i learned more thank you for the knowlage
You have the gift of teaching !! Great job. I admire you being so humble ! Greetings from California.
Nothing says you've arrived like that free Harbor Freight meter.
Great video. I checked the vehicle diagram. The wire you cut (violet) is pin 8 of that connector. It is the input power to the Auto Headlamp Light Sensor (VTSS LED); located on the top of the dash. It gets its ground from pin 23 (BLK/LT GRN) "Lamp Driver" at the Body Control Module (lower left of dash). In case you wanted clarification to where it leads.
The headlight sensor and LED is located on the top driver side dash. You can carefully pry up on the part of the dash that surrounds the LED and daytime light sensor. This component is held on by one screw. Remove and disconnect or replace. If left unplugged, headlights will have to be manually turned on when sun goes down. This faulty component will also cause the headlights to randomly come on even when the ignition is off.
Yo Matt you think this was the reason the previous owner junked the jeep? Also I wonder if said owner watches your videos lol.
are you the previous owner?
The previous owner banging his head regret selling it so cheap.. If he knew that was the wire earlier 😭