I wish you had mentioned to always wear eye protection (goggles) when handling a battery. My brother used a battery-lifting strap once and it slipped off the battery - battery fell on the pavement and broke, spraying battery acid everywhere. Fortunately he didn’t get any on his face, but it burned holes in his clothing. So, definitely use caution !
I use a baking soda/water solution to clean the top of the battery/hold downs/terminals. This will help neutralize any acid that may be present. Always rinse with lots of water.
Yeah the person calling you a fool doesn’t understand electrical circuits at all. I subscribed to you because that same short video you posted made sense from a course I learnt in first year uni, I was trying to figure out voltage & ampere differences that produce the same current & you nailed it.
One thing I learned long ago when you take your battery into a parts store to be tested is the battery needs to be properly charged first to do a proper load test. If it’s dead it will fail the load test even if it’s a good battery.
It also needs to not be just charged or a bad battery will show good on a load test. So like if you just drove in, I would turn the car off and leave the headlights on for about 15 to 30 seconds to get rid of the surface charge before testing.
I know you stated to wear gloves but it’s always worth it to take a moment and remove all jewelry and watches before working on electrical systems. Shorting your watch or ring could spotweld the lead to the jewelry and cause burns before you can get the item off.
Clean the batter terminals and hold downs with a wire brush and a solution of baking soda and water. When it quits bubbling the acid which caused the corrosion is neutralized. A battery low on electrolyte can spark internally and cause it to explode. Sparks and batteries don't mix. Thats the reason why you should make your last connection ti metal on the engine instead of on the battery.
"Then, I do a tiny little hammer job" - grabs the bigger wrench. That's how you know he's a real mechanic! (unlike me, he at least used the handle end of the wrench! 😀) Really great video, btw. You covered all of the basics of car batteries and how to replace them quickly and efficiently.
I bought battery tester at harbor freight tools 👍 Checks volts, load test and alternator. Keep terminals clean, I got terminal spray from advanced auto parts, keeps from getting corrosion building up. POS cable attaches to starter, NEG cable to motor and frame .
Great tips much appreciated. I also learned years ago to give a battery jump if your car is giving the jump you put the negative clap on something other then your negative battery post or you run the risk of damaging your battery. And lastly one time my wife gave me some of her lanolin oil to smear on posts, what a great idea, i never get any corrosion on the posts
The way I taught my kids was to never leave the negative cable alone on a battery, whether you're installing or removing one. The negative cable must never be left alone on the battery.
Nice tip about the terminal. Another tip is if your car has one of those battery control module things like my Ford F150 has you have to reset it after installing a new battery otherwise it leads to premature failure of the battery.
Great overall advice. It's amazing how many people misunderstand these basic principals. At the beginning of the video I thought, OMG 12 volts can in no way push enough current through to kill you (or even damage you in any meaningful way). Electronics 101: Ohms law says "Volts divided by Resistance equals Current" (it's the current that kills you). I've measured resistance across my body with a FET VOM (a very sensitive Ohm meter). Dry about 500cm skin distance was in the Mega Ohms. wet... still barely in the Mega Ohm range (a metal wrench... between 0 and 4 ohms). 12 Volts divided by 1 million is 12 millionth of an amp. You most likely won't even feel it. This is only slightly more dangerous than testing a 9 Volt battery with your tongue (very wet and close proximity). That I know of, no one ever died testing 9Vs :). Overall your procedures are sound, Can you come work on my car next? :) One of the tricks I've used in the past was, mixing baking soda with Vaseline (easier if the Vaseline is hot - be careful, it IS flammable) and applying it to the terminal area after the connections are all tight. This keeps that "cauliflower" corrosion from forming :). Thanks for the great video :).
talking about a replacement battery, you need to pay attention to how the posts are situated and make sure that it will work on you car or truck! how the battery has to sit in the holder and which side the cables are on for your car! I've seen people go buy a battery and find they had to go back and exchange it for a different battery. I know in Oklahoma, some batteries are more universal and have both side posts and top post, but which side the posts are situated may be different. If that doesn't make sense, it will the first time you buy a replacement and get back only to find out you needed the posts to be opposite of what you bought! A lot of people already know this but some may need that information! I know I didn't know that back in my youth. Battery cables are made long enough to only reach one way. It isn't as easy as turning the battery when it moves the terminals too far from the cables!
There is usually a $5.00 core charge for no battery turned in (NY anyway). It is possible to change out a bad battery right in the parking lot of Costco or BJs and walk the old battery right back in to redeem the core charge.
@@erth2man that seems like the smart thing to do to me, instead of breaking the seal on a battery! In Oklahoma, you get a core charge refund for an exchange, which is what I do on all my truck or car batteries! Now the batteries I have used on some automatic standby Generac Generators for a residential homes that still have the caps you can remove to fill up the battery cells, which is part of the maintenance of the Generator, along with the Transfer Switch and any DLMs to manage loads like Dryers and A/C units and electric HVAC Heaters. Most of them have gone gas though, which reduces the need for a Digital Load Management.
Bonus tip that may not have been mentioned: NEVER use those felt washers that some parts stores will try to automatically upsell to you when you buy the battery. Those can force your clamp to sit too high on the post, and either cause the clamp to bottom out on the pinch without actually gripping the post correctly (as was shown in the video) or sometimes the felt washer can get pinched into the bottom of the clamp and prevent it from actually being in full contact with the post. The rationale for using those old-tech felt washers derives from the days when battery casings were made of hard rubber and sealed with tar; the battery acid could creep up along the outside of the post. The semiliquid stuff in the felt washer was intended to help maintain the seal around the battery post to slow that down. That was back in the '60s and earlier. Modern batteries don't need this, and the modern clamps can be prevented from working properly if the felt washer is installed, so just don't go there. It's not just a waste of money, it's an added problem that you can avoid by not making the mistake of buying something that went obsolete more than 50 years ago.
Another mistake is not realizing that batteries are scheduled maintenance, just like anything else. Don't wait until it starts giving you trouble or you may get stranded. Replace a 5 year battery at 5 years and a 7 year battery at 7 years, more or less depending on usage and/or your climate.
I have the impression that some of the newer batteries have smaller diameter posts. I've had my car for many years and have changed the battery every few years. The last time, the clamp wouldn't tighten on the post. I got out a micrometer and the new post was smaller. Not much smaller, but just enough that the cable's clamp wouldn't tighten down. They do make adapters that you can put on the post to make up the difference, but I can't think of any clamp that won't fit over the tapered post if it was slightly larger, but they definitely won't fit if the post is made smaller.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING NEAR A BATTERY !!! Do NOT remove a battery cable while the engine is running, can damage electronics. Such is NOT a test for charging system operation with alternator-equipped vehicles. And if you have the "emergency-only" universal terminals on your battery cables: get good cables !!!
Alternators rarely, if ever, "kill a battery"... Most often the mode of failure for an alternator is the inability to recharge the battery when in use. The lack of recharging will cause that battery to drain due to loads placed on the battery over time, e.g. turning on your headlights.... The battery over time will "empty" it's energy into the loads (headlights in this example) but in the case of a bad alternator, it will not be replenished with energy. As you mentioned, a good number of times a "bad alternator" is really nothing more than a bad battery terminal connection (either positive or negative).
How dead was that battery? You should have gotten way more spark and it could have welded itself to the other terminal and possibly exploded the gasses from the sparks. The proper way is to remove the GROUND first(not all cars have negative ground). The positive post is fatter than the negative. Sparks can fly be disconnecting either terminal and if you use a long wrench, always cover the other terminal with a rag.
Circuitry aside, I personally witnessed a person making sparks while touching positive post with a metal part causing an explosion of the battery! Apparently enough fumes were present to cause an ignition!
I have a question I have a 04 Honda accord ex 2.4l & had it for 3 years & lights inside flicker when I start it , not a big deal but since I put in a touch screen aftermarket radio been having issues , battery died marginal came up on code reader so Midas changed the battery , a few days later on 68% idk if it’s my alternator or a short , we took the negative terminal off car stil ran & went from 14.2 volts to 13
Thank you for telling me that car batteries aren't as dangerous as i think because im scared to death thinking it will shock me so maybe now I can relax a bit...😂 Thanks!
It's not advised to hammer on the battery terminal, you can possibly damage some batteries that way. Instead unscrew the nut and use something like a screwdriver to pry open the battery terminal.
On the GEN 5 ODYSSEY you do not put the negative cable clamp all the way down as shown in your video, part of a Technical Service Bulletin shows the proper depth, which is the negative battery post top and the chassis negative cable clamp being flush at the top. This is due to partly the negative sensors that is built into negative cable clamp.
If the terminal clamp is still bottoming out (leaving no air gap) even after properly seating, there are things called battery shims made out of lead to bulk up the battery post. The look like sticks of chewing gum.
Most car batteries last 4-6 years. Anything longer than that and you are on borrowed time. Sealed batteries (AGM) do not require any maintenance. Conventional batteries should be checked to make sure they have enough fluid in them. If you get your oil changed, the shop should be checking your battery fluid level and looking for corrosion as part of their service.
you know, just as a fyi since you mentioned the acid that is in the battery, when you see corrosion around the metal where the battery sits, it is a good indication that you have a battery leaking and you should replace it asap! that is if you want to maintain that battery holder 😊
Another thing you can do to make one last is to charge it up once a month, whether it needs it or not. The charger will go into trickle charger mode when it is full, and time ON that trickle charge will strengthen that battery. Also, do not ever let that battery go all the way down. If you do? You just shortened its life big time.
He failed to mention why not have sparks. I helped change a battery and crossed the wrong cable in giving a jump/sparks. The gaseous fumes from the battery exploded the battery. Solution: Don't cross up and allow the area around the battery to aerate to clear hydrogen gaseous vapors and be sure not to have leakage and loose caps. Thank God, I or others around me were not injured!
doing generator installs years ago, i made the mistake of connecting the negative first and then the positive. but if you connect the positive first and then the negative, just reverse of removing, then you can avoid a short while tightening the terminals onto the posts. I ignorantly done the opposite when doing 100's of whole house Generators until someone schooled me on that little tip, so that is definitely a great tip on removing and replacing a battery!
In Oklahoma, you may find that your car battery is sealed and you can't add water to them like you could back in the 70's and 80's. Some of them you can still add water to but it depends on what brand and type you buy. That's been my experience and observation anyway! Not always true!
@ not what I’ve seen so whatever! A sealed battery is a sealed battery! If you can safely remove the caps, it isn’t sealed and you’re not talking about the same thing as I am! Are you like 12 years old or something!
@@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736 It’s common in Europe, where they don’t want consumers being able to fix things (looks like it worked on you, too, Santa). It’s the same with “sealed for life” bearings, to which you can just fit a grease nipple.
@ It’s common in EU, where they don’t want simple consumers (like you, Santa) fixing things and force them to buy new stuff. Same with “sealed for life” bearings, where you just fit a grease nipple etc etc
Boiling water cleans battery corrosion with grace and ease. Either dribble a little on the terminal connections and work around them with an acid brush or dip them into a can of hot water after they are disconnected. You don't need to add baking soda or anything else, just hot water works great all by itself. This is an old trick I've used many times over the last 45 years.
if you're stranded with a seemingly dead battery and don't have a wire brush to clean the connections on the battery, a classic coke will eat it off nice and clean! a bottle of coke could be a survival tool lol. I jest but if all you have is some coke, it will clean the corrosion of of the terminals! The first time I seen this done, it made me reconsider drinking coke! I switched to dr pepper lol
speaking of being covered in salt water, if it's 90-110 degrees outside and you're sweating like crazy and your shirt and body are covered with sweat, chances are that you are covered in salt water! Just FYI
If your battery dies (you forgot to turn off the dome light) and you think it is still "good" then you should charge it first before depending on the alternator to charge it. You can wear out the alternator by using it as a charger. It is only meant to charge the battery from starting the car and light usage like lights.
FYI, to clean battery cable post contacts, soak each one in a small cup of coke or any carbonated beverage, it will remove the acid corrosion even in the tight areas, then rinse with water and dry, then wire brush contact surfaces to bare metal, apply dialectic grease or Vaseline to them and reinstall. JMO.
Your videos are amazing but please use a good mic 🎙️ because the voice is very low and cannot be heard when we don't wear any headphones 🎧 ... Having good voice in your videos will help you way more . Best wishes 😊
Sure, if you use ONE wrench, BUT if you use TWO, One in Each Hand, with Each Wrench in Each Hand touching a Post - Complete the Circuit - Now that the AMPS are FLOWING ... Seperate the two wrenches while still Holding them in each hand and with them STILL TOUCHING the POSTS... You will be a Fuse bud Trust me. Do My Method ON VIDEO - I need a Giggle... (also dont EVER use My Method because you will be seriously hurt) I had 800 Amps through my heart once exactly the way I described and bud... I was Dumb JUST LIKE YOU once... Never Again... I don't know what hurt worse, the Battery flowing through my Heart - or the Defibrillator as the Ambulance was trying to restart my Un Beating heart
Remember Kids, Amperage is Limited by the Gage of the Wires in the Circuit, so a 20 Guage Wire ain't gonna do the trick... If you don't believe me... Use a 20 Guage wire... Not much bang there, it'll probably burn up at 30Amps of Current... But use a 00 Guage Wire and get them 800 Amps Flowing... ZAP !!!! It won't even get hot but you WILL get a Huge Feild Reading from the Wire, ask StyroPyro - DON't Listen to this "12 volt battery wont kill you" - There are a few people in these comments that LIKE ME have met the criteria and have suffered DEARLY - You CAN ABSOLUTELY DIE!!!
Ask an Electrician how many amps will get through a Thin Insulator at 800 Volts - it literally rearanges the electrons in the Insulator and tho it won't escape a 120volt current, use the same wire on a 12000 volt current. It will leak. Your Skin is an Insulator too... up to a certain extent... once there is enough energy tho - it wont stop the Current and you'll be sorry. YES a 12 Volt Battery CAN and WILL Kill ya Dead... but you have to have a LARGE current already flowing, and you have to interrupt the flow WHILE still connected to BOTH POLES of the Conductor... maybe I should do a Video...
So if you're a clumsy and not careful person........remove the negative post first. That's good advice for the stupid mechanic......you know who those folks are
Your videos are amazing but please use a good mic 🎙️ because the voice is very low and cannot be heard when we don't wear any headphones 🎧 ... Having good voice in your videos will help you way more . Best wishes
Modern alternators are very reliable. Dead batteries are caused by old age or parasitic drain. In some cases there could be a bad connection somewhere preventing proper charging. Sulfation is another issue if the battery does not get charged for long periods. A brand new battery with electrolyte, sitting on the shelf for 18 months will become sulfated. If you have installed a smaller battery than your car requires, it will drain faster and be dead. (just a few thoughts)
I wish you had mentioned to always wear eye protection (goggles) when handling a battery. My brother used a battery-lifting strap once and it slipped off the battery - battery fell on the pavement and broke, spraying battery acid everywhere. Fortunately he didn’t get any on his face, but it burned holes in his clothing. So, definitely use caution !
It's good to see someone thoroughly cover the basics. Well done!
I use a baking soda/water solution to clean the top of the battery/hold downs/terminals. This will help neutralize any acid that may be present. Always rinse with lots of water.
Yeah the person calling you a fool doesn’t understand electrical circuits at all. I subscribed to you because that same short video you posted made sense from a course I learnt in first year uni, I was trying to figure out voltage & ampere differences that produce the same current & you nailed it.
one more tip: smear a good coating of vaseline over the clean connector and battery terminal post before assembling to keep corrosion at bay.
One thing I learned long ago when you take your battery into a parts store to be tested is the battery needs to be properly charged first to do a proper load test. If it’s dead it will fail the load test even if it’s a good battery.
It also needs to not be just charged or a bad battery will show good on a load test. So like if you just drove in, I would turn the car off and leave the headlights on for about 15 to 30 seconds to get rid of the surface charge before testing.
I know you stated to wear gloves but it’s always worth it to take a moment and remove all jewelry and watches before working on electrical systems. Shorting your watch or ring could spotweld the lead to the jewelry and cause burns before you can get the item off.
I learned that you are a real father God bless you
Clean the batter terminals and hold downs with a wire brush and a solution of baking soda and water. When it quits bubbling the acid which caused the corrosion is neutralized. A battery low on electrolyte can spark internally and cause it to explode. Sparks and batteries don't mix. Thats the reason why you should make your last connection ti metal on the engine instead of on the battery.
I forgot to add when jumping a battery
"Then, I do a tiny little hammer job" - grabs the bigger wrench. That's how you know he's a real mechanic! (unlike me, he at least used the handle end of the wrench! 😀)
Really great video, btw. You covered all of the basics of car batteries and how to replace them quickly and efficiently.
I bought battery tester at harbor freight tools 👍
Checks volts, load test and alternator.
Keep terminals clean, I got terminal spray from advanced auto parts, keeps from getting corrosion building up.
POS cable attaches to starter, NEG cable to motor and frame .
Great tips much appreciated. I also learned years ago to give a battery jump if your car is giving the jump you put the negative clap on something other then your negative battery post or you run the risk of damaging your battery. And lastly one time my wife gave me some of her lanolin oil to smear on posts, what a great idea, i never get any corrosion on the posts
The way I taught my kids was to never leave the negative cable alone on a battery, whether you're installing or removing one. The negative cable must never be left alone on the battery.
AAA once tried to replace my car battery and put the new one in backwards. Sparks everywhere ! It’s amazing that he didn’t fry the computer.
Nice tip about the terminal. Another tip is if your car has one of those battery control module things like my Ford F150 has you have to reset it after installing a new battery otherwise it leads to premature failure of the battery.
Great overall advice. It's amazing how many people misunderstand these basic principals. At the beginning of the video I thought, OMG 12 volts can in no way push enough current through to kill you (or even damage you in any meaningful way). Electronics 101: Ohms law says "Volts divided by Resistance equals Current" (it's the current that kills you). I've measured resistance across my body with a FET VOM (a very sensitive Ohm meter). Dry about 500cm skin distance was in the Mega Ohms. wet... still barely in the Mega Ohm range (a metal wrench... between 0 and 4 ohms). 12 Volts divided by 1 million is 12 millionth of an amp. You most likely won't even feel it. This is only slightly more dangerous than testing a 9 Volt battery with your tongue (very wet and close proximity). That I know of, no one ever died testing 9Vs :).
Overall your procedures are sound, Can you come work on my car next? :) One of the tricks I've used in the past was, mixing baking soda with Vaseline (easier if the Vaseline is hot - be careful, it IS flammable) and applying it to the terminal area after the connections are all tight. This keeps that "cauliflower" corrosion from forming :). Thanks for the great video :).
talking about a replacement battery, you need to pay attention to how the posts are situated and make sure that it will work on you car or truck! how the battery has to sit in the holder and which side the cables are on for your car! I've seen people go buy a battery and find they had to go back and exchange it for a different battery.
I know in Oklahoma, some batteries are more universal and have both side posts and top post, but which side the posts are situated may be different. If that doesn't make sense, it will the first time you buy a replacement and get back only to find out you needed the posts to be opposite of what you bought!
A lot of people already know this but some may need that information! I know I didn't know that back in my youth. Battery cables are made long enough to only reach one way. It isn't as easy as turning the battery when it moves the terminals too far from the cables!
5:05 It is acidic chemical coming out, not caustic. Caustic is in the higher end of pH. Think the word you were looking was corrosive chemical.
Very good, honest advice/video, thanks!
I don't know about there but in Oklahoma they charge a core on batteries to encourage people to recycle them when they buy a new one!
There is usually a $5.00 core charge for no battery turned in (NY anyway). It is possible to change out a bad battery right in the parking lot of Costco or BJs and walk the old battery right back in to redeem the core charge.
@@erth2man that seems like the smart thing to do to me, instead of breaking the seal on a battery! In Oklahoma, you get a core charge refund for an exchange, which is what I do on all my truck or car batteries!
Now the batteries I have used on some automatic standby Generac Generators for a residential homes that still have the caps you can remove to fill up the battery cells, which is part of the maintenance of the Generator, along with the Transfer Switch and any DLMs to manage loads like Dryers and A/C units and electric HVAC Heaters. Most of them have gone gas though, which reduces the need for a Digital Load Management.
Bonus tip that may not have been mentioned: NEVER use those felt washers that some parts stores will try to automatically upsell to you when you buy the battery. Those can force your clamp to sit too high on the post, and either cause the clamp to bottom out on the pinch without actually gripping the post correctly (as was shown in the video) or sometimes the felt washer can get pinched into the bottom of the clamp and prevent it from actually being in full contact with the post. The rationale for using those old-tech felt washers derives from the days when battery casings were made of hard rubber and sealed with tar; the battery acid could creep up along the outside of the post. The semiliquid stuff in the felt washer was intended to help maintain the seal around the battery post to slow that down. That was back in the '60s and earlier. Modern batteries don't need this, and the modern clamps can be prevented from working properly if the felt washer is installed, so just don't go there. It's not just a waste of money, it's an added problem that you can avoid by not making the mistake of buying something that went obsolete more than 50 years ago.
That's some really good pointers you brought up...
Another mistake is not realizing that batteries are scheduled maintenance, just like anything else.
Don't wait until it starts giving you trouble or you may get stranded. Replace a 5 year battery at 5 years and a 7 year battery at 7 years, more or less depending on usage and/or your climate.
Good video. Ensure the new battery you buy is the same physical size, electrical capacity and terminal configuration as the old one.
Or larger capacity as long as the size is the same, unless you're like me with a old square body that has room to squeeze way bigger batteries in.
Good info! Liked and subscribed.
I have the impression that some of the newer batteries have smaller diameter posts. I've had my car for many years and have changed the battery every few years. The last time, the clamp wouldn't tighten on the post. I got out a micrometer and the new post was smaller. Not much smaller, but just enough that the cable's clamp wouldn't tighten down. They do make adapters that you can put on the post to make up the difference, but I can't think of any clamp that won't fit over the tapered post if it was slightly larger, but they definitely won't fit if the post is made smaller.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING NEAR A BATTERY !!! Do NOT remove a battery cable while the engine is running, can damage electronics. Such is NOT a test for charging system operation with alternator-equipped vehicles. And if you have the "emergency-only" universal terminals on your battery cables: get good cables !!!
If you live in a state where you need to pass inspection, make sure you use a memory saver before disconnect your positive terminal.
My last battery was 11 yrs. However, they are now made in Mexico or China. Hope my new one gets 5 yrs. Warranty of four years.
Alternators rarely, if ever, "kill a battery"... Most often the mode of failure for an alternator is the inability to recharge the battery when in use. The lack of recharging will cause that battery to drain due to loads placed on the battery over time, e.g. turning on your headlights.... The battery over time will "empty" it's energy into the loads (headlights in this example) but in the case of a bad alternator, it will not be replenished with energy. As you mentioned, a good number of times a "bad alternator" is really nothing more than a bad battery terminal connection (either positive or negative).
If the voltage regulator inside the alternator fails, can't the cause it to overcharge (too high voltage) the battery?
As an apprentice in the 1970s we were taught start and finish on black easy to remember
How dead was that battery? You should have gotten way more spark and it could have welded itself to the other terminal and possibly exploded the gasses from the sparks. The proper way is to remove the GROUND first(not all cars have negative ground). The positive post is fatter than the negative. Sparks can fly be disconnecting either terminal and if you use a long wrench, always cover the other terminal with a rag.
I appreciate your video
You makes sense
No bullshit
Common sense
Thank You ! Your video was a blessing frfr
I would recommend you replace the word electrocute with shock, as the word electrocution would mean you die.
To be fair, I know people who are deathly afraid that a car battery will kill them.
The first thing I do is get my battery terminal wire brush and clean the battery terminals and the positive/negative connectors.
Circuitry aside, I personally witnessed a person making sparks while touching positive post with a metal part causing an explosion of the battery! Apparently enough fumes were present to cause an ignition!
Start with black and end with black.
Awesome channel. succinct and to the point. Great presentation.
You can spray the terminals so they won't corrode.
I use Fluid Film.
I have a question I have a 04 Honda accord ex 2.4l & had it for 3 years & lights inside flicker when I start it , not a big deal but since I put in a touch screen aftermarket radio been having issues , battery died marginal came up on code reader so Midas changed the battery , a few days later on 68% idk if it’s my alternator or a short , we took the negative terminal off car stil ran & went from 14.2 volts to 13
You may have a alternator or grounding issue.
@ so should I change my alternator ? And then what
Is a memory saver recommended ?
For newer car yes.
Thank you for telling me that car batteries aren't as dangerous as i think because im scared to death thinking it will shock me so maybe now I can relax a bit...😂 Thanks!
I also like your face
Good video 👍
It's not advised to hammer on the battery terminal, you can possibly damage some batteries that way.
Instead unscrew the nut and use something like a screwdriver to pry open the battery terminal.
Where’s the fun in not being naked and covered in saltwater when swapping your battery? LOL
Well done video 👍
On the GEN 5 ODYSSEY you do not put the negative cable clamp all the way down as shown in your video, part of a Technical Service Bulletin shows the proper depth, which is the negative battery post top and the chassis negative cable clamp being flush at the top. This is due to partly the negative sensors that is built into negative cable clamp.
So II cant go changing 4 daisy chained batteries buttnaked covered in salt water?... What am I supposed to do on a Friday afternoon now?
How to say you live where the bus drops the kids off from school. Without saying it.
@Moondoggy1941 Yeah until I was evicted because of the court order.
@@YehNahYehAyy Well at least you do not have to listen to all of them kids anymore.
@Moondoggy1941 yeah hearing "daddy he's chasing me again" all the time got really annoying.
Never spill the contents on the floor . No one wants to be trippin' on acid .
Happens to me all the time
So that's how that happens
😂
📌📍🧷
All applicable to mowers as well.
Never hammer a battery post!!!
But it was just a tiny little hammer job…. 😂
Thnx for the helpful advice and great job with these videos it really does help
terminal grease to prevent corrosion.
If the terminal clamp is still bottoming out (leaving no air gap) even after properly seating, there are things called battery shims made out of lead to bulk up the battery post. The look like sticks of chewing gum.
Can also use old tire weights by hammering them flat.
Thank you so much!!
One should be cautious when sparking the battery because hydrogen builds up on the negative plates in the battery and can explode.
How many years it wpuld last range?
How to take care of car battery? Ty
Most car batteries last 4-6 years. Anything longer than that and you are on borrowed time. Sealed batteries (AGM) do not require any maintenance. Conventional batteries should be checked to make sure they have enough fluid in them. If you get your oil changed, the shop should be checking your battery fluid level and looking for corrosion as part of their service.
Excellent! Ty 😊
you know, just as a fyi since you mentioned the acid that is in the battery, when you see corrosion around the metal where the battery sits, it is a good indication that you have a battery leaking and you should replace it asap! that is if you want to maintain that battery holder 😊
That could be a result of overcharging.
@ or an old battery
Another thing you can do to make one last is to charge it up once a month, whether it needs it or not. The charger will go into trickle charger mode when it is full, and time ON that trickle charge will strengthen that battery. Also, do not ever let that battery go all the way down. If you do? You just shortened its life big time.
Current does, in fact, pass through your body. It’s not enough, with a 12V battery, to stop your heart.
Car batteries can and do explode spraying acid
get rid of the negativity stay with the positive great stuff
Only thing you missed is to wear eye protection when handling lead-acid batteries. Otherwise, good advice.
Who doesn’t change their battery’s butt naked covered in salt water?!
He failed to mention why not have sparks. I helped change a battery and crossed the wrong cable in giving a jump/sparks. The gaseous fumes from the battery exploded the battery. Solution: Don't cross up and allow the area around the battery to aerate to clear hydrogen gaseous vapors and be sure not to have leakage and loose caps. Thank God, I or others around me were not injured!
Those fumes are hydrogen.
doing generator installs years ago, i made the mistake of connecting the negative first and then the positive. but if you connect the positive first and then the negative, just reverse of removing, then you can avoid a short while tightening the terminals onto the posts. I ignorantly done the opposite when doing 100's of whole house Generators until someone schooled me on that little tip, so that is definitely a great tip on removing and replacing a battery!
In Oklahoma, you may find that your car battery is sealed and you can't add water to them like you could back in the 70's and 80's. Some of them you can still add water to but it depends on what brand and type you buy. That's been my experience and observation anyway! Not always true!
Even in so called sealed batteries the top can often be pulled off and you can top up with water
@ not what I’ve seen so whatever! A sealed battery is a sealed battery! If you can safely remove the caps, it isn’t sealed and you’re not talking about the same thing as I am! Are you like 12 years old or something!
@@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736 It’s common in Europe, where they don’t want consumers being able to fix things (looks like it worked on you, too, Santa). It’s the same with “sealed for life” bearings, to which you can just fit a grease nipple.
@ It’s common in EU, where they don’t want simple consumers (like you, Santa) fixing things and force them to buy new stuff. Same with “sealed for life” bearings, where you just fit a grease nipple etc etc
Boiling water cleans battery corrosion with grace and ease. Either dribble a little on the terminal connections and work around them with an acid brush or dip them into a can of hot water after they are disconnected. You don't need to add baking soda or anything else, just hot water works great all by itself. This is an old trick I've used many times over the last 45 years.
if you're stranded with a seemingly dead battery and don't have a wire brush to clean the connections on the battery, a classic coke will eat it off nice and clean! a bottle of coke could be a survival tool lol. I jest but if all you have is some coke, it will clean the corrosion of of the terminals! The first time I seen this done, it made me reconsider drinking coke! I switched to dr pepper lol
speaking of being covered in salt water, if it's 90-110 degrees outside and you're sweating like crazy and your shirt and body are covered with sweat, chances are that you are covered in salt water! Just FYI
Just don’t lick both terminals 😊
If your battery dies (you forgot to turn off the dome light) and you think it is still "good" then you should charge it first before depending on the alternator to charge it. You can wear out the alternator by using it as a charger. It is only meant to charge the battery from starting the car and light usage like lights.
24 Volt batteries are not safe to touch. 24 can hurt your heart.
Coca cola and a firm tooth brush works well cleaning the terminals also
FYI, to clean battery cable post contacts, soak each one in a small cup of coke or any carbonated beverage, it will remove the acid corrosion even in the tight areas, then rinse with water and dry, then wire brush contact surfaces to bare metal, apply dialectic grease or Vaseline to them and reinstall. JMO.
Know they make the battery sealed like the phone, so you can't restore.
To avoid the arcing with tools wrap them with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing
What about a mechanic doing the same thing?
Always used glasses.
If the circuit arcs through your ring via the wrench - ouch!
Your videos are amazing but please use a good mic 🎙️ because the voice is very low and cannot be heard when we don't wear any headphones 🎧 ... Having good voice in your videos will help you way more .
Best wishes 😊
Sure, if you use ONE wrench, BUT if you use TWO, One in Each Hand, with Each Wrench in Each Hand touching a Post - Complete the Circuit - Now that the AMPS are FLOWING ... Seperate the two wrenches while still Holding them in each hand and with them STILL TOUCHING the POSTS... You will be a Fuse bud Trust me. Do My Method ON VIDEO - I need a Giggle... (also dont EVER use My Method because you will be seriously hurt) I had 800 Amps through my heart once exactly the way I described and bud... I was Dumb JUST LIKE YOU once... Never Again... I don't know what hurt worse, the Battery flowing through my Heart - or the Defibrillator as the Ambulance was trying to restart my Un Beating heart
Remember Kids, Amperage is Limited by the Gage of the Wires in the Circuit, so a 20 Guage Wire ain't gonna do the trick... If you don't believe me... Use a 20 Guage wire... Not much bang there, it'll probably burn up at 30Amps of Current... But use a 00 Guage Wire and get them 800 Amps Flowing... ZAP !!!! It won't even get hot but you WILL get a Huge Feild Reading from the Wire, ask StyroPyro - DON't Listen to this "12 volt battery wont kill you" - There are a few people in these comments that LIKE ME have met the criteria and have suffered DEARLY - You CAN ABSOLUTELY DIE!!!
Ask an Electrician how many amps will get through a Thin Insulator at 800 Volts - it literally rearanges the electrons in the Insulator and tho it won't escape a 120volt current, use the same wire on a 12000 volt current. It will leak. Your Skin is an Insulator too... up to a certain extent... once there is enough energy tho - it wont stop the Current and you'll be sorry. YES a 12 Volt Battery CAN and WILL Kill ya Dead... but you have to have a LARGE current already flowing, and you have to interrupt the flow WHILE still connected to BOTH POLES of the Conductor... maybe I should do a Video...
@@RobbCochran-l2uyes, please, i would like to see exactly what you are saying. I will be checking your channel regularly for the vidya. Ty
a bad battery is the leading cause of Alternator death! just fyi
So if you're a clumsy and not careful person........remove the negative post first. That's good advice for the stupid mechanic......you know who those folks are
Your videos are amazing but please use a good mic 🎙️ because the voice is very low and cannot be heard when we don't wear any headphones 🎧 ... Having good voice in your videos will help you way more .
Best wishes
biggest mistake is buying one from walmarts
This is the most complete instruction on how to replace a battery. If you screw it up after watching this, you probably voted for trump.
😂😂
So true!
😂 voting for biden or harris means you shit your pants and eat it later
Awww, not taking it well, are you.. 😂😂
Your telling me with a strait face you’d rather have Kampala change your battery? It’s Trump time😂.
STOP SAYING "SO"!!!
Modern alternators are very reliable. Dead batteries are caused by old age or parasitic drain. In some cases there could be a bad connection somewhere preventing proper charging. Sulfation is another issue if the battery does not get charged for long periods.
A brand new battery with electrolyte, sitting on the shelf for 18 months will become sulfated. If you have installed a smaller battery than your car requires, it will drain faster and be dead. (just a few thoughts)
Cool video report ❤Thanks for sharing ❤