⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Battery Charger: amzn.to/2AUqUmf 2. Battery Tester: amzn.to/2sA0JN1 3. Battery Terminal Cleaner: amzn.to/2W1b820 4. Battery Terminal Protectant: amzn.to/2ARqb57 5. Common Sense 6. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 7. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 8. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 9. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2uUZ3lo ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 4. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y 🔥Scotty Shirts and Merch ► goo.gl/pTAeca Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN Scotty on Social: Facebook ► facebook.com/scottymechanic/ Instagram ► instagram.com/scotty_the_mechanic/ Twitter ► twitter.com/Scottymechanic?lang=en
Hey Scotty, is it necessary to disconnect a car from battery while charger is connected to? Could a cheap charger from eBay damage electronic components of the car (an engine is off, the car key is not in)? From the other side I woldn't like to set up computer, clock, etc. after every recharge of battery.
Hi Scotty ! I love your videos and have now started to consider Toyota's for purchase. I am trying to decide between a 2019 Toyota Highlander limited platinum awd and the 2019 Buick Enclave Avenir. My wife and I really like the OnStar system as I spend most of the year on the road as a truck driver. Any insight you could offer would be greatly appreciated sir.
Scotty Kilmer hey Scotty , your celica has an efi engine , is it affected from the Toyota scandal ( i can't remember the decade it was occurring, but I know that these cars were burning oil like mad )
Scotty Kilmer the vw I got had an normal 60 ah battery and it lasted for 6 years ( bought it brand new ) is this because vw is giving value on quality cars or so all do this ?
I've worked in a battery shop for almost 3 years as a salesman and technician, and I have to say out of all the BS misinformation I've seen online it's nice to see someone who's got it right.
I worked for a large government fleet for 30 years. I changed maybe a thousand batteries in that time. And almost all of them had a way to check the water level, so I did check the water level on all of them. And I found that EVERY. SINGLE. BATTERY was low on water and needed some added - every one, NO EXCEPTIONS! I also jumped plenty of batteries too, that were dead and wouldn't start and if I had the chance, I checked the water level on these too. Yep, all of them were low on water. Lesson learned, i check my batteries for water, every couple of months.
Whenever I know I'm not using a battery for a long time I tip it over and drain the acid out and then rinse a few times with some distilled water. Without acid the batteries can stay good and even be fully charged when you put the acid back in years or even decades later! Now you do have to store the acid which can actually be quite a pain especially if you forget which jug goes to which battery but even buying new acid is way cheaper than a new battery.
@@robertmaybeth3434 Same, if you have the budget why go through the trouble of a sitting battery. Most people ain't going to drain acid, if you're not careful it could be possibly be dangerous anyways.
Another trick to use, is cut an old rubber floor mate to the size of the battery support tray, this will reduce vibration, to the battery, and will make last much longer as well.
Greatest mechanic ever! Keeps us aware of all things related to our automotive concerns. "Our" automotive knowledge improves and our wallets are saved from unneeded expenses. Thank you for being a consumer advocate, you are greatly appreciated.
Once a year. Before winter. I dampen the top of my truck battery. Sprinkle a little baking soda on. Use an old tooth brush to scrub terminals and all. Then rinse liberally. Then go for a drive to dry off the area.
A B The battery (for the most part), is prefilled with sulfuric acid. When the acid level is low (battery plates are exposed), you should use distilled water to bring the acid level in the battery to a point where the plates are covered, but not all the way up to the fill port.
I replaced the cheap stock battery in my Nissan 8 years ago with a good quality aftermarket one that was much more powerful. (800 cranking amps vs 500 IIRC) It still works like new and it doesn't produce any corrosion on the terminals at all.
Just yesterday noticed in my 2018 F-150 the battery is smaller than the place built to hold it. Bought the truck used with low mileage, but paying attention when Scotty said the manufacturer will put a cheaper battery in new vehicles. I know I use the battery a lot given all the bells and whistles that came with the truck. Time to do another Scotty inspired research.
You have to be careful about maintenance batteries that have the tops that do come off. Because many of the newer batteries if you remove the tops the tops will not go back on. They are designed that way and it requires you to get a another battery. Take it from a former mechanic that worked at Advance Auto and AutoZone.
They actively try to prevent you from watering the batteries? How much life do you suspect is robbed from your use of a lead acid battery if you can't water them?
The Battery Tenders are worth their weight in gold for extending the life of your car battery. The 800 model is super rugged and resists moisture. I bought a Black and Decker once and it just stopped working within a week. I've had my original battery for over 6 years and I live in the upper Midwest.
Scott, Thank you for all your helpful tips. Your 40 years of experience is a lifesaver to all of us who live on a budget, and have to survive by fixing the things that we can fix ourselves. I appreciate you.
I has noticed that not traveling long distances weekly. More driving around town and my battery last just passed and Monthly warranty runs out. A car I used to have 25 years ago used to last longer than that. I did have a battery with a large CCA and used to travel over 200 km a week around 140 km on highway (100 kph) road and had a high powered car stereo. I was wondering if that would be from traveling long distance trips?
@@hamisharchibald5270perhaps the performance of the alternator has decreased, check the AC ripple voltage and check the upper limit of the voltage. Also check the engine and body grounding
I just accidentally stumbled upon your videos as recommended by RUclips, and I must say how impressed I am at your practicality, honesty, and thoroughness. You made a new subscriber.
Best battery I've owned is a 5.00 optimum blue top. I bought it in a yard sale over 10 yrs. Used with 2 lawn mowers and 2 trucks. Oh and it out lived a solar panel charging system from harbor freight. Still in use. I don't understand it, but happy with it.
BEAM ME UP SCOTTY!You got to respect this auto mastermind for his wealth of knowledge. I really appreciate all of the videos that he has put out. They have definitely taught me a lot and most importantly I have saved a lot of money. Thank you for taking the time to inform us on the real truth of maintaining your car. You are appreciated!
I worked with batteries for years. We would always get the same information again and again during our training program. They never came up with some of the important stuff you said (I guess beautiful we weren't really in to battery maintenance, that much; they just wanted us to sell more batteries) I enjoy very much your videos Scotty 👌
I feel like if you ever see corrosion you probably have a crack in the battery that's letting the acid vapor get it. I say that because it seem like most are pretty tightly sealed these days and I had that happen on a battery recently. And what made me check is that it was the negative terminal, and I don't think I'd ever seen a corroded negative terminal before. And sure enough there was a small crack in the top near the negative terminal.
In the 80's I was told to seal, with silicone, the seam where the lead terminals exit the plastic case. This prevents the gasses from escaping under the terminals causing corrosion. I still do this and have not had terminal corrosion since. The silicon works much better than the spray.
The diodes in the alternator rectify or convert the A.C. (Alternating Current) to D.C. (Direct Current). It is the regulator (either internal or external) that controls the output amps for charging. Otherwise very inspiring to us DIYers. Thanks. Keep em coming!
Hey great advice for the battery tender. Walmart started carrying their own brand of battery tender. It shows error codes, charges at 3 amps, and is $20 ! I got one and its great its cord is as long as the vehicle !
Another common issue I found over the years is people love to leave their cell phone charger plugged in the vehicle. Leaving that plugged in is equivalent to leaving one of the interior lights on overnight. It will drain the battery, and enough times of that will eventually kill the battery. So just a little extra advice to go with all of scotty's recommendations, don't leave your phone chargers plugged in while the vehicle is off.
My vehicle turns off electronics, radio, lights after car turned off for a certain time. Used to have a light left on every few years so this has been good for me.
Yeah this is for all cars that won´t let you fiddle w/ the computer. Even my 2008 Mercedes W211 has an option to switch off the power outlets together w/ ignition. I use this to leave a parrot like Bluetooth-FM transmitter plugged in -in the trunk.. cheers
Thanks for the reminder to check the battery acid level. The 3 and a half year old battery in my Forester died suddenly. I recharged, but it died again within a few hours. While checking on how to replace it I stumbled across this video. I looked at my battery and saw that it wasn't the sealed type. I spent $1.50 for a gallon of distilled water, filled the empty cells, recharged, and it's back to normal. I remember doing this in my younger days, but after so many years forgot about this. Great tip! In checking around a new battery was quoted as $190 to $240, depending on how many years' warranty I wanted to purchase. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
I learn so much watching your channel Scotty. I never knew the battery tool came apart that way. I actually used that tool for years not realizing that it comes apart and has a scraper to it.
You missed another key point: Always ensure that the top of the battery surface is clean. If it's covered in grease & grime, a charge can run through that grunge.
Scotty, another thing to put out there is most cars if not all cars these days have alarm systems installed at the factory. If these cars are left for a few days without trickle chargers, they draw the battery down too. Just a suggestion. Great job on this anyway.
Good clear simple explanation Scotty. I am an electrical engineer with a specialization in remote power systems. Your hints are very accurate and clear.
Besides mineral deposits if you use any water that is not distilled or that has been in a metal container it will be ionised and can conduct electricity which will short out the plates .
Scotty I like all your insights and stuff.. but I gotta tell ya about *super capacitors.* We have 3 cars Toyota Corolla, Toyota High Ace Van and a Landrover Discovery 3 and when the batteries failed in that order I replaced each with a 20AH AGM with a bank of 6 x 2.7 volt 500 mfd super capacitors (about 1AH but as many amps as the starter motor requires). The Landrover had a 90 AH battery because I discovered its parked service drain on the battery was 0.352 Amps! So I had to put an external kill switch on that one. But they all work fine and I get very long reliability esp the van which has had the same battery for over 12 years with a solar trickle charger in the windscreen. Thanks
Charge me up Scotty !!! ... Great video once again... I've been using Hi-temp grease for decades. Just apply a small amount on both terminal's and forget about it ... it's way cheaper then buying those aerosol sprays and whatever else you use . 😉 It's an old school mechanic trick 🤠.
Those are all Super Great Tips. Even so, I found after about 5 years a good battery will start to go weak to the point that it bears watching especially in winter or if the cranking power seems a bit weaker. Time to use your battery tester then. I do like the one you show in your videos.
A bit of information about automotive batteries. You need to keep them above 12.3 volts weather in use or not. Below that voltage they begin a chemical process that coats the plates rendering the battery useless. A low amp charge is better for the battery than a high amp one. All batteries lose cranking amps as they age at as much as 100cca a year so always purchase as many cca as your battery tray can hold. Always look for a build date to get the freshest possible. Agm and sla batteries are all around better than flooded as far as corrosion and power, but do not do well with high heat or high amp charging. The manufacturers are all moving away from serviceable batteries to agm and enhanced flooded varieties so the prices will be increasing. A cheap hydrometer is the best way to check a serviceable batteries health. Also never, EVER, pop the caps of a serviceable battery without eye protection!
For normal lead/acid batteries a thumb-rule for maximum sustained charge current in Amperes is 1/10 of the AH capacity; 6A for a 60AH battery. Some electronic chargers has a "reconditioning" function that removes sulfide from the plates, but eventually gunk at the bottom can reach up to the plates and make the battery discharge itself
@@brandonknight7240 Even one time of deep discharge (around 11V) will have done damage to normal start batteries, the next time it happens perhaps 50-70% of the practical capacity is gone, which again is about perhaps 70% of the given AH "on the box". If you drain all those AH that is the claimed capacity of the battery it has been damaged, perhaps severly. If recharged right away it can save the battery as the breakdown process is also a function of time. Only "deep discharge" batteries for caravans and such can withstand such abuse, but they do not have so high current capacity for starter motors, so that is why not to use them in cars. Some start batteries has a relatively low charge density/capacity (AH) and can take more abuse, but it must be balanced against the starter motor demand and ambient temperatures.
@@brandonknight7240 Don't fall for the brand garbage. It's entirely irrelevant. There are only 3 major manufacturers of batteries in the states and the units themselves are almost completely identical. Age and cranking amps are what you should look at. A little insider secret, the unit sold at the Walmart, the one sold at the parts store, and the one from the dealership are almost always the same battery with different cases and/or labels.
Scotty, Thank you for posting your very informative and useful videos. As a single woman your information has help me tremendously. Please don't stop posting! Have a wonderful day!
Love Scotty’s videos, seems like I learn something new all the time! I don’t consider myself a mechanic by any means. I’m what you call a parts replacer! 😬
The “ sealed “ batteries I’ve had over the years , actually have had tiny removable caps under the top cover . The cover could be prayed up with a thin bladed screw driver .
My red top battery lasted 10 years. I open the hood every time I get home after driving as heat is what kills a battery. Just purchased another red top battery and installed it in my 2006 Kia Sportage.
Scotty , I noticed that you had "NO-CO" pads on your battery , but you didn't mention them . I've found the no-co pads to be very effective in stopping battery corrosion and should have been a main point , especially since they're so inexpensive ... otherwise , great tips !
Appreciate your tips on car battery care Scotty incld cleaning the terminals but surprised you didn’t mention periodically cleaning the inside contact surface using that terminals cleaner .. just a constructive point Bud
What is the cold cranking amp limitation when picking a larger battery? I would expect you should not jump from a 500 CCA to a 1200 CCA. I know it must fit in the battery box but is there a ratio you should not exceed when picking a stronger battery?
@@bigpardner You are probably low on that number. I try and buy as much as I can local even know it may cost slightly more. As a small business owner try to keep it local.
@Pedro DLR Amazon CEO even said him self that Amazon will fail one day and after all the small business are gone and Amazon fails where will people go? Then watch the prices jump.
Everyone's gotta love Scotty, for his personality and charm etc. Baking soda/water works best for cleaning corrosion from terminals, or Coca Cola works in a pinch.
Never let the battery completely discharge, and never let it freeze solid (which won't happen if you keep it charged either by driving or with a smart tender). I always buy AC Delco at the GM dealer. Last Delco I replaced survived 14 years.
Way to go Scotty I've been doing that since I was a boy with the battery in my lumina van I have just about a thousand cold cranking amps battery and it really helps up north will you got 12° you're starting up in starts every time let it sit run accessories another good video Scotty thank you
I have a friend who has more money than brains. He paid over $500. + tax for two car batteries. One was for his Jeep. The other was for his Ford F-150. He went to AutoZone and was proud to report that he got ripped off - till I told him how I easily rebuilt my 4-year-old almost dead Walmart battery in a day for less than $10. two years ago. The battery is going on 6 years and cranking super - even in freezing weather. I learned how to refurbish car batteries on RUclips. So far, I've refurbished two - one Walmart and one Interstate. Easy to do.
Hi Scotty, My front started battery has finally started to fail after 13 years which is original to the car from the factory. The rear AGM battery still seems to be fine even if I use the TV or stereo for an hour or more. I've had the car for 5 years now but have always put the batteries on charge after doing short trips or heavy accessory use. I'm happy to extend their life as a new set cost over 500 euros, Cheers.
you want connection of terminal with connector..putting dielectric grease onto the terminal reduce conductivity since dielectric grease do not conduct electricity. this causes more heat on the terminals due to smaller conducting area.
Clean the post. Clean the inside circle of the connector. Baking soda is cheap .90c a box. Put some wit water in a small container. Brush the battery's posts and its top. Rinse with water. Then fill the cells with distilled water if you can. The next one you buy should have caps to remove. Or you buy them more often. Check your engine and body ground straps. They should both be within a half ohm of the neg post. Easy once you figure yours out and verify and check.
Changing your alternator brush 3 to 5 interval will save you a $100 or for a alternator,the brushes cost about $10 bucks and replacing your battery cables especially for older cars, some times your alternator wiring can get loose and damage your alternator so check that is tighten properly
If you do top up your battery, NEVER fill it up too much. Doing so will discharge the battery. Just fill it up with distilled water one quarter of an inch above the lead plates inside.
I always filled each cell to the bottom of the tube below the opening then waited until a cell's level was an 1/8 inch below that before topping off with water.
#6 Do not let that wetness that never evaporates accumulate between the battery posts. It's concentrated acid and it's water soluble, just thoroughly wash it off and away from all the parts below the battery, too. It is very conductive and can drain a battery by 20 to 50% in just a couple of days. They just don't last long being "deep cycled" over and over. It's also bad for the alternator to have to charge a discharged battery, especially after it starts the engine. My batteries last many, may years from keeping the tops dry.
An alternator is designed to charge a battery. Using the alternator is expected. It has a lifespan, true, but it’s not going to be hurt if the battery snd cabling is good. Otherwise, every time we use a winch on our jeeps the alternator would die. Because we definitely test alternators.
Scotty, I really love your dynamic and animated personality, and you give a lot of great advice. Please stay safe and continue being awesome. You rock !!!
"When there's more resistance, the battery must work harder". No, not even close. Resistance leads to less current drawn, which may lead to the battery appearing to work badly, but it actually takes longer before the battery is drained. The advice, to keep the contacts clean, is sound, though. Resistance leads to a voltage drop that you don't want.
Last night, at 01:30 am a friend of mine called and asked if I could help her daughter (20 years old) since she couldn't start her car (2003 Mazda 6), luckily I had a newly recharged (Volvo 70 amp, non gel) battery, I went there, hocked up her battery with mine using jump cables and and it started, just before I used a multimeter and her battery was 10,8 volts, my Volvo battery was 13,8 volts, and that's was enough to crank her Mazda and start it. Today she got a new battery with 80 amps and 700 CCA if I remember correctly. The car starts just fine with the new battery.
Scotty 100% correct here! I have been putting slightly larger than stock batteries in vehicles for years and yes they last longer. Thanks for the tips on spraying the terminals helping even more.
Another tip is get rid of the STEEL HOLD DOWN BRACKET. I will conduct discharge from post to post over time, shortening battery life. Replace it with heavy plastic or wood.
Not bad. 🙂 Alternators require replacing once every 6 to 10 years too. You can easily tell if one is going bad by using one of the cheap voltage lcd gauges that fit in the cigarette lighter socket. If voltage keeps dropping while your driving that's usually a bad sign it's failing. BTW it's Celica not Sellicca 😅
At 2:22 I know Scottie knows how to use that tool but for people who don’t, you gotta take the terminals off and scrape the insides with this tool not the top 😜
Battery terminal reamers remove metal from posts and clamps, so take it easy. If the post is reduced in diameter or the clamp hole is enlarged the clamp won't tighten. Maybe Scotty has mentioned it elsewhere: positive (+) and negative (-) terminals are different diameters. Don't put grease on the mating surfaces before connecting and installing the clamps. Grease and oil are dielectric (insulators). Put the protectant on after tightening the clamps.
scotty...did westinghouse donated the batteries for the first Electric Chairs? we followed your tips...now we have 8 years.700 craks in our volvo car battery...
Scotty too hotty! Dude. You are the BEST! I hope you live forever! Stay healthy. Stay happy! And NEVER retire! It will kill you from what I hear. Bro, the world needs you!
. And after cleaning the terminals and hooking up the cables a little bit of di-electric grease (it's a insulator) goes a long way to keep corrosion away. Keyword less is more or if that's too hard just forget the grease altogether.
My dad showed me a similar way how maintain a car battery. My 2006 mazda 3 OEM battery lasted me for 10 years. That battery was likewise made in Japan.
I saw many japanese battery who last way longer than what you can get normally in store. If i remember well, the plastic around was kind-of semi-transparent white instead of black.
The Japanese OEM batteries are generally a Yuasa made unit, and they make a very good battery, with a lot more lead in the plates and interconnects, so there is a lot of life in there before it corrodes away. As well they are generous with the acid, and with the sump that collects plate material that flakes off. The capacity is slightly smaller, but they are designed to last the 7 year life of the vehicle in Japan with almost none of them failing. Yuasa is generally one of the best batteries you can get, there are much better ones, but they are not for the automotive market, and are industrial units, and Yuasa is big in there as well. For Japanese manufacturers Yuasa will also brand them for a particular model, so your battery for a Toyota will have the full Toyota labelling on it, and a Toyota part number, while the same battery for Mazda will likewise be branded with Mazda and the part number. I find often the "sealed for life" battery will be just the regular type with a set of caps, but they are covered with a plastic plate and a stick on label. As the batteries need filling along the line, so having the tried and trusted seal of the cap is there to solve any leakage issues, and then just make it look invisible. Only a few are truly sealed, they use a rubber cup to cap the cells, and then use a welded on plastic cover, making them impossible to fill when they die from a lack of water. I avoid those these days, as a check every few months makes the battery last longer. Lucky for me I live where the municipal water is very pure, so can just put it in the battery straight, though I also have a resin bed filter to get pure water.
@@SeanBZA- Way back when JC Penney was in the auto repair and tool business I bought a "forever" battery that was plastic welded shut. It was warranted to last the life of the ownership of the car it was installed in. They didn't record the ID of the car they installed it in. Three cars and five batteries later I got the last one. After that Penney went out of the auto service business.
When I first saw this video, I thought 8 minutes was so unnecessary to talk about this subject. Wow, was I wrong! This was such an informative and interesting video! Thank you, Scotty!!
Most batteries are sealed now, so that last one is only on older batteries. Up in the north where I live, batteries don't really last longer than 4 years in any case - it gets too cold and the crank voltage drops in cold weather - so any battery goes on to its fifth year tends to fail to start the car at some point. I have done everything Scotty says on my batteries, and in all cases when the temperature goes below 0 the five year old battery never works. So I replace after four now.
Your batteries shouldnt die that fast especially in below 0. Ive never had a problem starting cars and lifts with 15 year old batteries in -40. Its the oil I have issues with. Electrical systems like the cold as long as you dont freeze the battery.
I agree with all the things Scotty recommends but no way that will double battery life. Here in NH get about 5 years or so or of a good battery. Most recently I did a load test on one of our cars, using one of the simple restive loads. Checked out fine, a month later had trouble starting the car. I assume one of the cells went bad. The good news is the battery is most likely to fail in the morning after a cold night. So in that case just put it on the charger to get going. But once that happens I know I'm on borrowed time so quickly replace the battery.
@@ONeA2122 I have a powrsurge, interstate and magnapower, I had to go look, just for you lol. When I go to a battery shop I dont ask for a brand I ask for a size and rating. If your batteries arent lasting 10-15 years then there is something wrong like faulty or fake/knockoff batteries, or maybe they just need a proper trickle charge once in a while.
I have an older truck that I don't drive very much, and occasionally the battery runs down enough that i have to hook up a charger overnight to bring it up to full strength to start the truck. Rather than having to keep running a 120 volt extension cord out to the vehicle to operate a battery minder, I decided on another alternative. I purchased a small 12 volt solar charger that plugs directly into the cigarette lighter outlet (or clips directly on to the battery terminals). I just keep the solar panel on the dash, facing the sun, or attached to a sun visor that can be positioned forward or to the side, depending on which direction the sun is coming from. Either way, the small solar panel is positioned in a place that will absorb sunshine energy for at least several hours a day. With this easy solar charger installation, I now never have to worry about whether my battery will be fully charged ---whenever I need it. A solar charger (with a 4' X 16" solar panel) keeps my battery topped off with a solar trickle charge, and it keeps my battery fully charged. Best of all, I don't have to worry about someone tripping over an extension cord, or having a neighbor's inquisitive children messing a curious cord that conducts 120 volts. This solar solution has worked surprisingly well for over ten years. I have appreciated your informative videos, so this is my way of giving back a tip for your listeners!
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5. Common Sense
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Hey Scotty, is it necessary to disconnect a car from battery while charger is connected to? Could a cheap charger from eBay damage electronic components of the car (an engine is off, the car key is not in)? From the other side I woldn't like to set up computer, clock, etc. after every recharge of battery.
Number 5 might be hard for some people XD.
How would you clean an alternator that has gunk on it?
Hi Scotty ! I love your videos and have now started to consider Toyota's for purchase. I am trying to decide between a 2019 Toyota Highlander limited platinum awd and the 2019 Buick Enclave Avenir. My wife and I really like the OnStar system as I spend most of the year on the road as a truck driver. Any insight you could offer would be greatly appreciated sir.
Scotty Kilmer hey Scotty , your celica has an efi engine , is it affected from the Toyota scandal ( i can't remember the decade it was occurring, but I know that these cars were burning oil like mad )
Scotty Kilmer the vw I got had an normal 60 ah battery and it lasted for 6 years ( bought it brand new ) is this because vw is giving value on quality cars or so all do this ?
I've worked in a battery shop for almost 3 years as a salesman and technician, and I have to say out of all the BS misinformation I've seen online it's nice to see someone who's got it right.
Scotty I use an electrical jointing compound called alminox on battery terminals - lasts the life of the battery
I worked for a large government fleet for 30 years. I changed maybe a thousand batteries in that time. And almost all of them had a way to check the water level, so I did check the water level on all of them. And I found that EVERY. SINGLE. BATTERY was low on water and needed some added - every one, NO EXCEPTIONS! I also jumped plenty of batteries too, that were dead and wouldn't start and if I had the chance, I checked the water level on these too. Yep, all of them were low on water. Lesson learned, i check my batteries for water, every couple of months.
Imagine doing that for cars that make you take a wheel off and take apart the fender to get to a battery!
And always refill with distilled or day old water. Not tap water or from a hose.
Always impressed with the no nonsense pragmatic advice Scotty delivers.
That’s worrisome. No nonsense is not at all how I would describe this
Scotty ? I thought he was Dennis Hopper
My Dad used Vaseline on the terminals after cleaning and that kept the corrosion from coming back. Love your videos
can wd-40 be used?
@@mrlayman9578 NO! It's flammable! And after it wears off, it causes rust. Silicon grease is fine.
@@mrlayman9578as YNRaider said, dielectric grease ( or silicone plumbers oring grease ) is excellent.
@@ynraider did you mean "silicone"? very different than silicon, the main mineral in sand.
Your dad's old school. Love it.
Awesome thank you!! I recently lost my husband and he took care of the cars and trucks. Now I have to so any help is useful. Thank you!!!!!!!
Sorry for your loss i suddenly lost my wife last may so trust me i feal your pain & its definitely not a easy 🙏🙏💕
Sorry for your loss. Hope this year brings you healing.
Scoty kilmer uncle very handsome ..katy..
Kathy Mason sorry for your loss....as far as cars go, scotty K has your back just search his threads for info, you got this
RIP...sorry for your loss
Whenever I know I'm not using a battery for a long time I tip it over and drain the acid out and then rinse a few times with some distilled water. Without acid the batteries can stay good and even be fully charged when you put the acid back in years or even decades later! Now you do have to store the acid which can actually be quite a pain especially if you forget which jug goes to which battery but even buying new acid is way cheaper than a new battery.
Cody, you are a living legend. Seeing that you watch his videos reaffirms my opinion that Scotty probably gives the best car advice on the internet.
I'd rather just buy a new battery and give that one away or sell it than handle acid -
Hmmn neato.. didn't know cars take those kinda trips..
Michael Johnson lol
@@robertmaybeth3434 Same, if you have the budget why go through the trouble of a sitting battery. Most people ain't going to drain acid, if you're not careful it could be possibly be dangerous anyways.
Every day i pray to have an honest talented, mechanic like you Scotty.
You have to hire a mechanic every day?
Honest and talented mechanics prefer making youtube videos than fixing cars 🤣
Another trick to use, is cut an old rubber floor mate to the size of the battery support tray, this will reduce vibration, to the battery, and will make last much longer as well.
Greatest mechanic ever! Keeps us aware of all things related to our automotive concerns. "Our" automotive knowledge improves and our wallets are saved from unneeded expenses. Thank you for being a consumer advocate, you are greatly appreciated.
Once a year. Before winter. I dampen the top of my truck battery. Sprinkle a little baking soda on. Use an old tooth brush to scrub terminals and all. Then rinse liberally. Then go for a drive to dry off the area.
- Use your car
- Clean corrosion
- Correct battery
- Have alternator checked periodically
- check acid level
Wasn't it distilled water? Where the acid came from.
Edit
I saw the video and he says fill with acid then distilled water. I am confused
A B
The battery (for the most part), is prefilled with sulfuric acid.
When the acid level is low (battery plates are exposed), you should use distilled water to bring the acid level in the battery to a point where the plates are covered, but not all the way up to the fill port.
If I had to do all this stuff on my car. I might as well start saving for the perfect second car a ---------.TOW TRUCK.
So is he.
Judging by how twitchy Scotty is, I think he’s doing the acid!
I learned sign language just by watching Kilmer
I'm dead 💀😂
😂
I'm deaf, so I lip read. His sign language is not good enough.
😂😂🤣🤣
Haha
I replaced the cheap stock battery in my Nissan 8 years ago with a good quality aftermarket one that was much more powerful. (800 cranking amps vs 500 IIRC) It still works like new and it doesn't produce any corrosion on the terminals at all.
Learned more about batteries in 8 minutes watching this video and reading comments then what I learned in the last 30 years. 👍😁
Yes, you can learn as much from videos & their comment sections as some public schools & sadly , sometimes more.
Just yesterday noticed in my 2018 F-150 the battery is smaller than the place built to hold it. Bought the truck used with low mileage, but paying attention when Scotty said the manufacturer will put a cheaper battery in new vehicles. I know I use the battery a lot given all the bells and whistles that came with the truck. Time to do another Scotty inspired research.
The best part of the day is a new video from Scotty.
You have to be careful about maintenance batteries that have the tops that do come off. Because many of the newer batteries if you remove the tops the tops will not go back on. They are designed that way and it requires you to get a another battery. Take it from a former mechanic that worked at Advance Auto and AutoZone.
They actively try to prevent you from watering the batteries? How much life do you suspect is robbed from your use of a lead acid battery if you can't water them?
Can you please you make a video to show us? That would be greatly appreciated.
My wife's battery in her dodge truck lasted for 15 years. Love your videos!
My brother's Walmart Ever Last lasted 10 years- 10 Alberta winters - battery blanket - . I just bought one $36
15 years !?
The Battery Tenders are worth their weight in gold for extending the life of your car battery. The 800 model is super rugged and resists moisture. I bought a Black and Decker once and it just stopped working within a week. I've had my original battery for over 6 years and I live in the upper Midwest.
Scott, Thank you for all your helpful tips. Your 40 years of experience is a lifesaver to all of us who live on a budget, and have to survive by fixing the things that we can fix ourselves. I appreciate you.
I has noticed that not traveling long distances weekly. More driving around town and my battery last just passed and Monthly warranty runs out. A car I used to have 25 years ago used to last longer than that. I did have a battery with a large CCA and used to travel over 200 km a week around 140 km on highway (100 kph) road and had a high powered car stereo. I was wondering if that would be from traveling long distance trips?
@@hamisharchibald5270perhaps the performance of the alternator has decreased, check the AC ripple voltage and check the upper limit of the voltage. Also check the engine and body grounding
Good idea to also keep the top of the battery clean as it will short out voltage and kill your battery slowly as well... try it with a volt meter
Dump water over it occassionally
@@DawnOfTheDead991 lol and test if there's juice by using your tongue
@@jaynguyen1573 hurr hurr
DawnOfTheDead991
empty troll
@@InsuranceIsLegalizedRobbery You are
I just accidentally stumbled upon your videos as recommended by RUclips, and I must say how impressed I am at your practicality, honesty, and thoroughness. You made a new subscriber.
I found that a battery warming "blanket" is a big help when it gets cold out here in western colorado
Best battery I've owned is a 5.00 optimum blue top. I bought it in a yard sale over 10 yrs. Used with 2 lawn mowers and 2 trucks. Oh and it out lived a solar panel charging system from harbor freight. Still in use. I don't understand it, but happy with it.
Optima?
@@rogersanchez9635 blue top jel battery .
BEAM ME UP SCOTTY!You got to respect this auto mastermind for his wealth of knowledge. I really appreciate all of the videos that he has put out. They have definitely taught me a lot and most importantly I have saved a lot of money. Thank you for taking the time to inform us on the real truth of maintaining your car. You are appreciated!
Listening 🎶 to Scotty give advise, makes it sensible to ask questions and for helpful tips.
Wish all the electrical components on my car was as reliable as the check engine light is.
The check engine light on a Fiat/Chysler product is the only thing that will still work beyond 50,000 miles.
no doubt got to love that money light
Why isn’t this comment pinned? I now have six pack abs thanks to this 🤣
0:05 I'm glad to see that scotty puts batteries on the concrete floor. Doesn't ruin it or affect it whatsoever despite what you may have heard
Myth long busted
I worked with batteries for years. We would always get the same information again and again during our training program. They never came up with some of the important stuff you said (I guess beautiful we weren't really in to battery maintenance, that much; they just wanted us to sell more batteries) I enjoy very much your videos Scotty 👌
I just took my terminals off to clean them an out them bk on to realize that I had a headlight out now..did I mess something up?
@@Junk_fishing101 no that wouldn't kill a headlight.
I feel like if you ever see corrosion you probably have a crack in the battery that's letting the acid vapor get it. I say that because it seem like most are pretty tightly sealed these days and I had that happen on a battery recently. And what made me check is that it was the negative terminal, and I don't think I'd ever seen a corroded negative terminal before. And sure enough there was a small crack in the top near the negative terminal.
Scotty’s videos are like having a dad to call when the car is vexing. Got a battery terminal strategy now for my old Honda!
How many miles on your Honda?
In the 80's I was told to seal, with silicone, the seam where the lead terminals exit the plastic case. This prevents the gasses from escaping under the terminals causing corrosion. I still do this and have not had terminal corrosion since. The silicon works much better than the spray.
The diodes in the alternator rectify or convert the A.C. (Alternating Current) to D.C. (Direct Current). It is the regulator (either internal or external) that controls the output amps for charging. Otherwise very inspiring to us DIYers. Thanks. Keep em coming!
Hey great advice for the battery tender.
Walmart started carrying their own brand of battery tender. It shows error codes, charges at 3 amps, and is $20 ! I got one and its great its cord is as long as the vehicle !
Another common issue I found over the years is people love to leave their cell phone charger plugged in the vehicle. Leaving that plugged in is equivalent to leaving one of the interior lights on overnight. It will drain the battery, and enough times of that will eventually kill the battery. So just a little extra advice to go with all of scotty's recommendations, don't leave your phone chargers plugged in while the vehicle is off.
Best to never leave anything plugged in that socket ever imo .
@@PepperWhite62 absolutely I agree 100%
My vehicle turns off electronics, radio, lights after car turned off for a certain time. Used to have a light left on every few years so this has been good for me.
Good tip!
Yeah this is for all cars that won´t let you fiddle w/ the computer. Even my 2008 Mercedes W211 has an option to switch off the power outlets together w/ ignition. I use this to leave a parrot like Bluetooth-FM transmitter plugged in -in the trunk.. cheers
Thanks for the reminder to check the battery acid level. The 3 and a half year old battery in my Forester died suddenly. I recharged, but it died again within a few hours. While checking on how to replace it I stumbled across this video. I looked at my battery and saw that it wasn't the sealed type. I spent $1.50 for a gallon of distilled water, filled the empty cells, recharged, and it's back to normal. I remember doing this in my younger days, but after so many years forgot about this. Great tip! In checking around a new battery was quoted as $190 to $240, depending on how many years' warranty I wanted to purchase. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
I learn so much watching your channel Scotty. I never knew the battery tool came apart that way. I actually used that tool for years not realizing that it comes apart and has a scraper to it.
God Bless you Scotty.....I love this Channel.....so much free useful information. Thank You, Sir.
god doesn't exist.. its only me.
@@RobBob555 I doubt you exist either.
You missed another key point: Always ensure that the top of the battery surface is clean. If it's covered in grease & grime, a charge can run through that grunge.
Scotty, another thing to put out there is most cars if not all cars these days have alarm systems installed at the factory. If these cars are left for a few days without trickle chargers, they draw the battery down too. Just a suggestion. Great job on this anyway.
Good clear simple explanation Scotty. I am an electrical engineer with a specialization in remote power systems. Your hints are very accurate and clear.
Hey Scotty hope you're having a great day, thanks for all the useful tips.
morning and thanks!
Besides mineral deposits if you use any water that is not distilled or that has been in a metal container it will be ionised and can conduct electricity which will short out the plates .
Scotty I like all your insights and stuff.. but I gotta tell ya about *super capacitors.* We have 3 cars Toyota Corolla, Toyota High Ace Van and a Landrover Discovery 3 and when the batteries failed in that order I replaced each with a 20AH AGM with a bank of 6 x 2.7 volt 500 mfd super capacitors (about 1AH but as many amps as the starter motor requires). The Landrover had a 90 AH battery because I discovered its parked service drain on the battery was 0.352 Amps! So I had to put an external kill switch on that one. But they all work fine and I get very long reliability esp the van which has had the same battery for over 12 years with a solar trickle charger in the windscreen. Thanks
It would be an honor to just shake your hand, Scotty if I ever visit Houston. You got one of the best YT channels.
You can't shake his hand because it never stops moving!
@@golden.lights.twinkle2329 😂
I have maintained my battery on my tractor; and it is the original one 2005 year. Now going on 16 years old , i sure can’t complain about that.
My father always had us clean them with baking soda and a toothbrush. Is that still OK to do? Love you channel Scotty👍🏻
The military did the same
It's one of the best ways to clean the Battery Terminals & Post.
Charge me up Scotty !!! ...
Great video once again...
I've been using Hi-temp grease for decades. Just apply a small amount on both terminal's and forget about it ... it's way cheaper then buying those aerosol sprays and whatever else you use . 😉 It's an old school mechanic trick 🤠.
Thanks
I swear, when it comes to cars, Scotty is the BEST!
I always clean my terminals with baking soda works great. Been doing it for 40+ years.
Wow...40 year old battery!!!
😆
Better too, because it is neutralizes the leaked material.
Can you provide the steps how you do it, please
Mike Secondo he didnt said that the battery is 40 years old
Live free or die ... this is KILMER SPARTAAA!!!
Simply disconnect the ground if you use infrequently. Works like a champ.
Those are all Super Great Tips. Even so, I found after about 5 years a good battery will start to go weak to the point that it bears watching especially in winter or if the cranking power seems a bit weaker. Time to use your battery tester then. I do like the one you show in your videos.
A bit of information about automotive batteries. You need to keep them above 12.3 volts weather in use or not. Below that voltage they begin a chemical process that coats the plates rendering the battery useless. A low amp charge is better for the battery than a high amp one. All batteries lose cranking amps as they age at as much as 100cca a year so always purchase as many cca as your battery tray can hold. Always look for a build date to get the freshest possible. Agm and sla batteries are all around better than flooded as far as corrosion and power, but do not do well with high heat or high amp charging. The manufacturers are all moving away from serviceable batteries to agm and enhanced flooded varieties so the prices will be increasing. A cheap hydrometer is the best way to check a serviceable batteries health. Also never, EVER, pop the caps of a serviceable battery without eye protection!
For normal lead/acid batteries a thumb-rule for maximum sustained charge current in Amperes is 1/10 of the AH capacity; 6A for a 60AH battery.
Some electronic chargers has a "reconditioning" function that removes sulfide from the plates, but eventually gunk at the bottom can reach up to the plates and make the battery discharge itself
Thanks that is useful information!
@@brandonknight7240
Even one time of deep discharge (around 11V) will have done damage to normal start batteries, the next time it happens perhaps 50-70% of the practical capacity is gone, which again is about perhaps 70% of the given AH "on the box".
If you drain all those AH that is the claimed capacity of the battery it has been damaged, perhaps severly.
If recharged right away it can save the battery as the breakdown process is also a function of time.
Only "deep discharge" batteries for caravans and such can withstand such abuse, but they do not have so high current capacity for starter motors, so that is why not to use them in cars.
Some start batteries has a relatively low charge density/capacity (AH) and can take more abuse, but it must be balanced against the starter motor demand and ambient temperatures.
@@brandonknight7240 Don't fall for the brand garbage. It's entirely irrelevant. There are only 3 major manufacturers of batteries in the states and the units themselves are almost completely identical. Age and cranking amps are what you should look at. A little insider secret, the unit sold at the Walmart, the one sold at the parts store, and the one from the dealership are almost always the same battery with different cases and/or labels.
@@Kenzofeis
True, and the longer it sits dead, the more damage occurs.
Scotty,
Thank you for posting your very informative and useful videos. As a single woman your information has help me tremendously. Please don't stop posting! Have a wonderful day!
I am a Houstonian. But I tell you...I Love this guy.✝😂
Love Scotty’s videos, seems like I learn something new all the time! I don’t consider myself a mechanic by any means. I’m what you call a parts replacer! 😬
Battery care 101, something every new driver should know.
Some old drivers also.
The “ sealed “ batteries I’ve had over the years , actually have had tiny removable caps under the top cover . The cover could be prayed up with a thin bladed screw driver .
Can you please make a video to show us? That would be greatly appreciated.
My red top battery lasted 10 years. I open the hood every time I get home after driving as heat is what kills a battery. Just purchased another red top battery and installed it in my 2006 Kia Sportage.
Scotty , I noticed that you had "NO-CO" pads on your battery , but you didn't mention them . I've found the no-co pads to be very effective in stopping battery corrosion and should have been a main point , especially since they're so inexpensive ... otherwise , great tips !
I've gone thru 2 alternators on 2 vans. One each.
I think the alternator on my friend's van is going bad because the lights flicker a little sometimes. I'll have it checked soon.
Appreciate your tips on car battery care Scotty incld cleaning the terminals but surprised you didn’t mention periodically cleaning the inside contact surface using that terminals cleaner .. just a constructive point Bud
What is the cold cranking amp limitation when picking a larger battery? I would expect you should not jump from a 500 CCA to a 1200 CCA. I know it must fit in the battery box but is there a ratio you should not exceed when picking a stronger battery?
YOU SO HYPED UP, I need some of that thing that gives you that free spirit.
Alcohol
free key leave a clean non offensive comment below
😂
Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner certainly seems to do the job.
Crackhead
23 dislikes are auto part stores and battery manufacturers🤔🤔
Dan Patterson 2,000 of the likes are from Amazon
@@bigpardner
You are probably low on that number. I try and buy as much as I can local even know it may cost slightly more. As a small business owner try to keep it local.
@Pedro DLR Amazon CEO even said him self that Amazon will fail one day and after all the small business are gone and Amazon fails where will people go? Then watch the prices jump.
Nope , he doesnt mention ppe.
Dan Patterson what manufactures don’t want you to know. Thanks Scotty 😎🤝
Scotty. Battery companies hate this video. Great job.
Everyone's gotta love Scotty, for his personality and charm etc. Baking soda/water works best for cleaning corrosion from terminals, or Coca Cola works in a pinch.
#6, make sure the battery is secure in the tray, vibration from a battery moving around in the tray shortens the battery life...
Never let the battery completely discharge, and never let it freeze solid (which won't happen if you keep it charged either by driving or with a smart tender). I always buy AC Delco at the GM dealer. Last Delco I replaced survived 14 years.
Way to go Scotty I've been doing that since I was a boy with the battery in my lumina van I have just about a thousand cold cranking amps battery and it really helps up north will you got 12° you're starting up in starts every time let it sit run accessories another good video Scotty thank you
I have a friend who has more money than brains. He paid over $500. + tax for two car batteries. One was for his Jeep. The other was for his Ford F-150. He went to AutoZone and was proud to report that he got ripped off - till I told him how I easily rebuilt my 4-year-old almost dead Walmart battery in a day for less than $10. two years ago. The battery is going on 6 years and cranking super - even in freezing weather. I learned how to refurbish car batteries on RUclips. So far, I've refurbished two - one Walmart and one Interstate. Easy to do.
No better battery than Interstate
Inflation, cheapest battery for my nissan 2014 note is $200 +, highway robbery. Thanks scotty, I always come back to your videos.
Hi Scotty, My front started battery has finally started to fail after 13 years which is original to the car from the factory. The rear AGM battery still seems to be fine even if I use the TV or stereo for an hour or more. I've had the car for 5 years now but have always put the batteries on charge after doing short trips or heavy accessory use. I'm happy to extend their life as a new set cost over 500 euros, Cheers.
Clean the battery with baking soda to remove dirt and neutralize surface containment's. Use terminal grease instead of spray.
You should do a video about how much an alternator can take, like with an aftermarket sound system, auxiliary lights, etc...
Thanks!!
You need to install a higher output alternator to run that stuff.
Slathering my battery terminal with dielectric grease, no need cleaning till it gets dirt on it, works like a charm since 2018.
you want connection of terminal with connector..putting dielectric grease onto the terminal reduce conductivity since dielectric grease do not conduct electricity. this causes more heat on the terminals due to smaller conducting area.
@@TomatoTomato911 I put it once I cleaned the terminal and reconnecting it.. no connection issues there
No not the slather
Clean the post.
Clean the inside circle of the connector.
Baking soda is cheap .90c a box. Put some wit water in a small container. Brush the battery's posts and its top. Rinse with water.
Then fill the cells with distilled water if you can.
The next one you buy should have caps to remove. Or you buy them more often.
Check your engine and body ground straps.
They should both be within a half ohm of the neg post.
Easy once you figure yours out and verify and check.
Changing your alternator brush 3 to 5 interval will save you a $100 or for a alternator,the brushes cost about $10 bucks and replacing your battery cables especially for older cars, some times your alternator wiring can get loose and damage your alternator so check that is tighten properly
If you do top up your battery, NEVER fill it up too much. Doing so will discharge the battery. Just fill it up with distilled water one quarter of an inch above the lead plates inside.
Just like putting water in an electric forklift.
I always filled each cell to the bottom of the tube below the opening then waited until a cell's level was an 1/8 inch below that before topping off with water.
#6 Do not let that wetness that never evaporates accumulate between the battery posts. It's concentrated acid and it's water soluble, just thoroughly wash it off and away from all the parts below the battery, too. It is very conductive and can drain a battery by 20 to 50% in just a couple of days. They just don't last long being "deep cycled" over and over. It's also bad for the alternator to have to charge a discharged battery, especially after it starts the engine. My batteries last many, may years from keeping the tops dry.
An alternator is designed to charge a battery. Using the alternator is expected. It has a lifespan, true, but it’s not going to be hurt if the battery snd cabling is good.
Otherwise, every time we use a winch on our jeeps the alternator would die. Because we definitely test alternators.
Scotty, I really love your dynamic and animated personality, and you give a lot of great advice. Please stay safe and continue being awesome. You rock !!!
"When there's more resistance, the battery must work harder". No, not even close. Resistance leads to less current drawn, which may lead to the battery appearing to work badly, but it actually takes longer before the battery is drained. The advice, to keep the contacts clean, is sound, though. Resistance leads to a voltage drop that you don't want.
You’re my
new mechanic grandpa Scotty, I love you! My old grandpa was a mechanic and cheated on my grandma
Last night, at 01:30 am a friend of mine called and asked if I could help her daughter (20 years old) since she couldn't start her car (2003 Mazda 6), luckily I had a newly recharged (Volvo 70 amp, non gel) battery, I went there, hocked up her battery with mine using jump cables and and it started, just before I used a multimeter and her battery was 10,8 volts, my Volvo battery was 13,8 volts, and that's was enough to crank her Mazda and start it. Today she got a new battery with 80 amps and 700 CCA if I remember correctly. The car starts just fine with the new battery.
It doesn't take much below 12v for the battery to not be able to turn the engine, it's surprising.
Unbelievable....😵
Scotty 100% correct here! I have been putting slightly larger than stock batteries in vehicles for years and yes they last longer. Thanks for the tips on spraying the terminals helping even more.
Good grief..stop!!!!
Never knew you lived in the same city as me after watching you for so long!
Now you have a personal mechanic
Another tip is get rid of the STEEL HOLD DOWN BRACKET. I will conduct discharge from post to post over time, shortening battery life. Replace it with heavy plastic or wood.
Not bad. 🙂
Alternators require replacing once every 6 to 10 years too. You can easily tell if one is going bad by using one of the cheap voltage lcd gauges that fit in the cigarette lighter socket. If voltage keeps dropping while your driving that's usually a bad sign it's failing.
BTW it's Celica not Sellicca 😅
At 2:22 I know Scottie knows how to use that tool but for people who don’t, you gotta take the terminals off and scrape the insides with this tool not the top 😜
Battery terminal reamers remove metal from posts and clamps, so take it easy. If the post is reduced in diameter or the clamp hole is enlarged the clamp won't tighten.
Maybe Scotty has mentioned it elsewhere: positive (+) and negative (-) terminals are different diameters.
Don't put grease on the mating surfaces before connecting and installing the clamps. Grease and oil are dielectric (insulators). Put the protectant on after tightening the clamps.
Thanks for the good pointers on batteries...i just bought 5..for 5 different vehicles ..
Thx Scotty.
Scotty you rock!tks for all the tips. Regards from a português living in Mozambique
scotty...did westinghouse donated the batteries for the first Electric Chairs?
we followed your tips...now we have 8 years.700 craks in our volvo car battery...
Scotty too hotty! Dude. You are the BEST! I hope you live forever! Stay healthy. Stay happy! And NEVER retire! It will kill you from what I hear. Bro, the world needs you!
#6. Clean with baking soda and water
#7. Put new batteries on a trickle charge overnight before installing
. And after cleaning the terminals and hooking up the cables a little bit of di-electric grease (it's a insulator) goes a long way to keep corrosion away. Keyword less is more or if that's too hard just forget the grease altogether.
Liv'n Lujin dont let the baking soda/water go down in the battery
I hear vasoline or hairspray also works to prevent corrosion.
@@vapeking466 You heard wrong
My dad showed me a similar way how maintain a car battery. My 2006 mazda 3 OEM battery lasted me for 10 years. That battery was likewise made in Japan.
did u use a battery tender or did you drive a lot
I saw many japanese battery who last way longer than what you can get normally in store. If i remember well, the plastic around was kind-of semi-transparent white instead of black.
I got 12 years out of the battery in my 2003 VW Golf and all I did was drive, didn't use any snake oil like Scotty suggests.
The Japanese OEM batteries are generally a Yuasa made unit, and they make a very good battery, with a lot more lead in the plates and interconnects, so there is a lot of life in there before it corrodes away. As well they are generous with the acid, and with the sump that collects plate material that flakes off. The capacity is slightly smaller, but they are designed to last the 7 year life of the vehicle in Japan with almost none of them failing. Yuasa is generally one of the best batteries you can get, there are much better ones, but they are not for the automotive market, and are industrial units, and Yuasa is big in there as well.
For Japanese manufacturers Yuasa will also brand them for a particular model, so your battery for a Toyota will have the full Toyota labelling on it, and a Toyota part number, while the same battery for Mazda will likewise be branded with Mazda and the part number.
I find often the "sealed for life" battery will be just the regular type with a set of caps, but they are covered with a plastic plate and a stick on label. As the batteries need filling along the line, so having the tried and trusted seal of the cap is there to solve any leakage issues, and then just make it look invisible. Only a few are truly sealed, they use a rubber cup to cap the cells, and then use a welded on plastic cover, making them impossible to fill when they die from a lack of water. I avoid those these days, as a check every few months makes the battery last longer. Lucky for me I live where the municipal water is very pure, so can just put it in the battery straight, though I also have a resin bed filter to get pure water.
@@SeanBZA- Way back when JC Penney was in the auto repair and tool business I bought a "forever" battery that was plastic welded shut. It was warranted to last the life of the ownership of the car it was installed in.
They didn't record the ID of the car they installed it in.
Three cars and five batteries later I got the last one. After that Penney went out of the auto service business.
When I first saw this video, I thought 8 minutes was so unnecessary to talk about this subject. Wow, was I wrong! This was such an informative and interesting video! Thank you, Scotty!!
You're the best and 3.83 million folks agree!
man, never thought about maintaining the battery until I watched this clip, thanks Scott!
Most batteries are sealed now, so that last one is only on older batteries. Up in the north where I live, batteries don't really last longer than 4 years in any case - it gets too cold and the crank voltage drops in cold weather - so any battery goes on to its fifth year tends to fail to start the car at some point. I have done everything Scotty says on my batteries, and in all cases when the temperature goes below 0 the five year old battery never works. So I replace after four now.
That has been my experience as well. It isn't worth getting stranded to squeeze the last few months of service out of an old battery.
Your batteries shouldnt die that fast especially in below 0. Ive never had a problem starting cars and lifts with 15 year old batteries in -40. Its the oil I have issues with. Electrical systems like the cold as long as you dont freeze the battery.
@@kolinstallman3788 what brand battery is that u have?
I agree with all the things Scotty recommends but no way that will double battery life. Here in NH get about 5 years or so or of a good battery.
Most recently I did a load test on one of our cars, using one of the simple restive loads. Checked out fine, a month later had trouble starting the car. I assume one of the cells went bad. The good news is the battery is most likely to fail in the morning after a cold night. So in that case just put it on the charger to get going. But once that happens I know I'm on borrowed time so quickly replace the battery.
@@ONeA2122 I have a powrsurge, interstate and magnapower, I had to go look, just for you lol. When I go to a battery shop I dont ask for a brand I ask for a size and rating. If your batteries arent lasting 10-15 years then there is something wrong like faulty or fake/knockoff batteries, or maybe they just need a proper trickle charge once in a while.
2:44 I use strong baking-soda solution to clean battery terminals
thank you so much for this info Scotty... I really appreciate everything you do here. You have been such a great help!
I have an older truck that I don't drive very much, and occasionally the battery runs down enough that i have to hook up a charger overnight to bring it up to full strength to start the truck. Rather than having to keep running a 120 volt extension cord out to the vehicle to operate a battery minder, I decided on another alternative. I purchased a small 12 volt solar charger that plugs directly into the cigarette lighter outlet (or clips directly on to the battery terminals). I just keep the solar panel on the dash, facing the sun, or attached to a sun visor that can be positioned forward or to the side, depending on which direction the sun is coming from. Either way, the small solar panel is positioned in a place that will absorb sunshine energy for at least several hours a day. With this easy solar charger installation, I now never have to worry about whether my battery will be fully charged ---whenever I need it. A solar charger (with a 4' X 16" solar panel) keeps my battery topped off with a solar trickle charge, and it keeps my battery fully charged. Best of all, I don't have to worry about someone tripping over an extension cord, or having a neighbor's inquisitive children messing a curious cord that conducts 120 volts. This solar solution has worked surprisingly well for over ten years. I have appreciated your informative videos, so this is my way of giving back a tip for your listeners!
🔥 tip 👍