I wish it was. I had a couple of family emergencies come up so I took care of that first. Got to save some money back up but it’s all good. Family comes first.
That might explain why I snapped a bolt - I read the torque specs for the independent suspension as 96 ft-lbs. I should have used the beam axle torque specs at 59 ft-lbs... glad I replaced all the bots and did the tightening by feel instead!
When I changed mine the stupid manufacturer spec called for 96 fl-lbs of torque on those bolts - the bolts would just stretch - one even broke... I like to torque to spec to increase safety, but in this case, torquing to spec made it more dangerous as the bolts were close to their yield point. Maybe my threads holes had too much grease or something...
I’ve ran into that problem before. I do my best to try and at least get close to spec on torque settings but in some cases you run into issues. Weaker threads from rust and stuff like that. Granted some brackets and bolts can be replaced with new ones but for some of us we don’t have the extra $.
@@GenerationX1971 The post by Alan Moore explained the problem ...there are two torques (59 and 95 ft-lbs) one is for a independent suspension and the other is for a beam axle type suspension - I have the later which means it should have been 59 ft-lbs... just glad I did not rip threads and just snapped a bolt... All is good now - when I take my back wheels off next time, I will retorque to 59 ft-lbs and it should be good. I will also make sure the threads have no grease, which affects torque too.... Only learn by doing!!!!
@@pingpong9656 doing it yourself is the best way to learn for sure. Depending on how dirty the threads are sometimes I will use PB Blaster and some type of wire brush or wheel to clean it up some. Grease can cause a false reading.
@@GenerationX1971 You would happen to know why I cant have the OBD2 to tell me what's wrong with my ABS system? I have one spare front wheelhub and one correct 4bult rear on shipping thx to you. But cant get the diagnostic tool to tell me anything.
@@roadwraith6 with ours the scanner I had which was a cheap one would only spit out a generic code to send you in a direction of what to look for. The bearings didn’t make noise on the rear but the light came on. We jacked it up to find play in the wheel. Our local advance auto used their scanner on it and it did the same thing. Wish I could be more help.
@@GenerationX1971 I am going to a repair shop this week and have them try to extract the codes from ABS module. If they aren't able I havt to go the old fashion way and measure each sensor. The only thing I am worried about is that the entire ABS module have retired. So that's why I cant get any codes.
For the abs light..You need a scanner that reads abs...is not the regular OBD2...$ cost more but it will tell you which wheel has the problem...is always better to change the two of them..left & right...in pairs...like shocks...
And congrats on the new grandbaby.
Thanks. They are on the way home now from the hospital. Couldn’t go up to the hospital because of Covid.
When I first saw a vehicle in the suggestions pic on you tube I thought gonna be a k5 video till I really looked at it. Kinda got depressed 🤣😂.
I wish it was. I had a couple of family emergencies come up so I took care of that first. Got to save some money back up but it’s all good. Family comes first.
Melissa did tell I could brake out the credit card lol. Trying not to go that route 😁
4-bolt is most common on these. 3-bolt would be for the AWD models which had an independent rear suspension setup instead of the beam axle.
That might explain why I snapped a bolt - I read the torque specs for the independent suspension as 96 ft-lbs. I should have used the beam axle torque specs at 59 ft-lbs... glad I replaced all the bots and did the tightening by feel instead!
Wasn't Cancer was Factory Design! They Love to make them to break them. .😂
That’s no joke. Build them cheap.
When I changed mine the stupid manufacturer spec called for 96 fl-lbs of torque on those bolts - the bolts would just stretch - one even broke... I like to torque to spec to increase safety, but in this case, torquing to spec made it more dangerous as the bolts were close to their yield point. Maybe my threads holes had too much grease or something...
I’ve ran into that problem before. I do my best to try and at least get close to spec on torque settings but in some cases you run into issues. Weaker threads from rust and stuff like that. Granted some brackets and bolts can be replaced with new ones but for some of us we don’t have the extra $.
@@GenerationX1971 The post by Alan Moore explained the problem ...there are two torques (59 and 95 ft-lbs) one is for a independent suspension and the other is for a beam axle type suspension - I have the later which means it should have been 59 ft-lbs... just glad I did not rip threads and just snapped a bolt... All is good now - when I take my back wheels off next time, I will retorque to 59 ft-lbs and it should be good. I will also make sure the threads have no grease, which affects torque too.... Only learn by doing!!!!
@@pingpong9656 doing it yourself is the best way to learn for sure. Depending on how dirty the threads are sometimes I will use PB Blaster and some type of wire brush or wheel to clean it up some. Grease can cause a false reading.
@@GenerationX1971 Good stuff - good luck with your videos brother!
@@pingpong9656 thanks
Is the Burger King optional?
Thx my rear ABS sensor just quit and this video helped me a lot:-)
Burger King is always a good back up plan lol. Glad we could be of help.
@@GenerationX1971 You would happen to know why I cant have the OBD2 to tell me what's wrong with my ABS system?
I have one spare front wheelhub and one correct 4bult rear on shipping thx to you. But cant get the diagnostic tool to tell me anything.
@@roadwraith6 with ours the scanner I had which was a cheap one would only spit out a generic code to send you in a direction of what to look for. The bearings didn’t make noise on the rear but the light came on. We jacked it up to find play in the wheel. Our local advance auto used their scanner on it and it did the same thing. Wish I could be more help.
@@GenerationX1971 I am going to a repair shop this week and have them try to extract the codes from ABS module. If they aren't able I havt to go the old fashion way and measure each sensor.
The only thing I am worried about is that the entire ABS module have retired. So that's why I cant get any codes.
For the abs light..You need a scanner that reads abs...is not the regular OBD2...$ cost more but it will tell you which wheel has the problem...is always better to change the two of them..left & right...in pairs...like shocks...