Thanks bro look like it's been five years since you published this video.. way to go my G.. you made it plain and simple straight to the point.. so now I can get my Uplander back on the road because I drive from Vegas to LA Cali every 2 weeks that's 270 MI.. thank you I appreciate this very informative video
Sometimes when a hub assembly is bad when you turn the opposite direction than the bad bearing it will get quiet during the turn. For example if you turn to the right and the sound goes away then it is the left hub assembly that is bad and vice versa. Honestly this is a good video for the at home person. I work in a shop and have impacts and a lot more tools at my disposal. Yes I impact them off but not back on I follow specs when doing jobs. Also the set screw for those who live in the rust belt the easiest way I have seen to get them out is by putting the bit in an extender bar and put the bit in the screw and hit the extender bar with a hammer. Gets em out every time. Also works on just about any screw that you just know is gonna strip. Also this is an excellent time to make sure your cv axle is good since most have been driving on a bad wheel bearing for quite some time.
The corrosion process of aluminum happens regardless of how much anti-seize you use on it and salt packs into them regardless as well. I will agree using it on the bolts and splines of the cv axle is a good idea but the problem with them sticking in the spindle is because some genius out there thought it was a good idea to make the spindles out of aluminum instead of steel to save weight. Yeah it save weight but I have seen these spindles with so much pitting in them it is ridiculous. Keep in mind domestic cars are made out of recycled steel and aluminum. No quality anymore. Cars that were designed to last a lifetime (very literally) are a thing of the past. But its kind of offensive dude saying the people at the shop don't use anti-seize. I use it quite often because I have repeat customers and guess who's doing the work. Yep me so why do I want to make it harder on myself? Where shops take shortcuts is in certain aspects you also took the same shortcuts. Did you bother to inspect the surface below the clips for the brake pads to ride in? nope but I do makes it easier getting pads back in when you clean the rust off of them. Why it seems like we take shortcuts is because we are using impacts from snapon and other companies and have a lift along with other tools that expidite the process a whole lot faster than you can do it at home. We do this for a living so we learn what will work and what will not so we don't waste time trying to do something we simply know will not work. We also do not hang the caliper from wire right away we let them hang free for a bit so we can see if the weight is gonna snap that brake hose and why do we do this? Because we don't want some customer going down the road and brake hard pushing 2000 psi of fluid through the system and blow out a hose and cause an accident when it could have been prevented. If the hose cannot support the weight of the caliper it will not hold up to 2000 psi so we'd rather it snap off under the weight of the caliper than when it really counts and the person is driving. It is unsafe for them and everyone else. We also tend to frown big time at how many home diyer's who put compression fittings on a brake line. The system can be as high as 2000 psi why would anyone risk their life putting a compression fitting on that is rated only for 50 psi to join a brake line together is beyond me but I see it a lot and I mean a lot. So maybe the shop charges 400 to put one of these in but what you are paying for is not the part alone. You are paying for the time it took to beak it off (which you yourself said can take a bit of time to do) and the equipment used t do it in a timely manner (faster than you can do it at home) and for the mechanics diagnosis of other failing parts. Sorry but we can tell a whole lot faster what is wrong and what is gonna need to be replaced in the future because we do it for a living and not for simply fun. And the customers are mad at us because we come back out and say "yep the bearing is bad and so is the ball joint, cv shaft and control arm bushings" because you decided to drive on a bad bearing for a lot longer than you should have. Not our fault if you drive on it and break other parts in the process and the bill gets higher. When you notice something is wrong stop driving until it is fixed this is the main cause for the bill being higher.
...interesting troubleshooting technique, with the brake caliper, to see if the brake line has some integrity left in it. It's a very thorough understanding, and it's much appreciated. I had a 1990 Lincoln Continental which had a brake caliper disintegrate on me, when I was changing brakes one day, it was seized a bit, so I hit it with a hammer. Bam! Huge chunks of pieces came off the assembly. I was stunned, I had never seen that before in all my years of working on my own vehicles. The car was nearly 20 years old at the time, I had to scramble to several salvage yards, in Tyler, TX, to locate a replacement. I finally located a Ford Taurus, same model year, with the same ABS configuration, which fit perfectly on the Lincoln. . It WAS a nice car, finally parked it on an empty lot in 2012, and abandoned it. lol
This video did help me, yet I did need a tool to pop the CV axle out of the hub assembly. I do have a video of that tool you can use on my channel. The Chevrolet Uplander is a great car, and swapping out minor parts can make this automobile last for a very long time.
Very good video because I need to do the exact same thing to the exact same year for the exact same reason haha. But I only have a question and not criticism but you said you had replaced the hubs once before and I'm assuming you used the Chinese ones like I bought but how many miles did you get out of it before you had to replace it again?
Good job. I got the Detroit axle hubs from Amazon. I di all four. They fail after 10k. One i did in a state Forest. I went through all the mistakes that happened to you. I have trouble getting specs for my 2005 Uplander. But being a mechanical guy, i get specs for the bolts it all works out fine. Anti sieze compound is the greatest eh?
My FSM says the torque spec for the spindle nut is 118 lb/ft, not 150 lb/ft. Perhaps you are going through bearings too quickly due to over torquing . . .
good job very fast and for every car the specs are not the same thanks for not saying that smart thinking. and you are not paying for this video so you should look up all specs. this is for all the trolls.
Thanks bro look like it's been five years since you published this video.. way to go my G.. you made it plain and simple straight to the point.. so now I can get my Uplander back on the road because I drive from Vegas to LA Cali every 2 weeks that's 270 MI.. thank you I appreciate this very informative video
Sometimes when a hub assembly is bad when you turn the opposite direction than the bad bearing it will get quiet during the turn. For example if you turn to the right and the sound goes away then it is the left hub assembly that is bad and vice versa.
Honestly this is a good video for the at home person. I work in a shop and have impacts and a lot more tools at my disposal. Yes I impact them off but not back on I follow specs when doing jobs.
Also the set screw for those who live in the rust belt the easiest way I have seen to get them out is by putting the bit in an extender bar and put the bit in the screw and hit the extender bar with a hammer. Gets em out every time. Also works on just about any screw that you just know is gonna strip.
Also this is an excellent time to make sure your cv axle is good since most have been driving on a bad wheel bearing for quite some time.
great advice thanks.
So I've been needing to replace my bearings for a while and have been driving with them. How will I know if I screwed up my cv axles?
Thank you for a simple explanation for this job man.
The corrosion process of aluminum happens regardless of how much anti-seize you use on it and salt packs into them regardless as well. I will agree using it on the bolts and splines of the cv axle is a good idea but the problem with them sticking in the spindle is because some genius out there thought it was a good idea to make the spindles out of aluminum instead of steel to save weight. Yeah it save weight but I have seen these spindles with so much pitting in them it is ridiculous.
Keep in mind domestic cars are made out of recycled steel and aluminum. No quality anymore. Cars that were designed to last a lifetime (very literally) are a thing of the past.
But its kind of offensive dude saying the people at the shop don't use anti-seize. I use it quite often because I have repeat customers and guess who's doing the work. Yep me so why do I want to make it harder on myself? Where shops take shortcuts is in certain aspects you also took the same shortcuts. Did you bother to inspect the surface below the clips for the brake pads to ride in? nope but I do makes it easier getting pads back in when you clean the rust off of them.
Why it seems like we take shortcuts is because we are using impacts from snapon and other companies and have a lift along with other tools that expidite the process a whole lot faster than you can do it at home. We do this for a living so we learn what will work and what will not so we don't waste time trying to do something we simply know will not work. We also do not hang the caliper from wire right away we let them hang free for a bit so we can see if the weight is gonna snap that brake hose and why do we do this? Because we don't want some customer going down the road and brake hard pushing 2000 psi of fluid through the system and blow out a hose and cause an accident when it could have been prevented. If the hose cannot support the weight of the caliper it will not hold up to 2000 psi so we'd rather it snap off under the weight of the caliper than when it really counts and the person is driving. It is unsafe for them and everyone else. We also tend to frown big time at how many home diyer's who put compression fittings on a brake line. The system can be as high as 2000 psi why would anyone risk their life putting a compression fitting on that is rated only for 50 psi to join a brake line together is beyond me but I see it a lot and I mean a lot. So maybe the shop charges 400 to put one of these in but what you are paying for is not the part alone. You are paying for the time it took to beak it off (which you yourself said can take a bit of time to do) and the equipment used t do it in a timely manner (faster than you can do it at home) and for the mechanics diagnosis of other failing parts.
Sorry but we can tell a whole lot faster what is wrong and what is gonna need to be replaced in the future because we do it for a living and not for simply fun. And the customers are mad at us because we come back out and say "yep the bearing is bad and so is the ball joint, cv shaft and control arm bushings" because you decided to drive on a bad bearing for a lot longer than you should have. Not our fault if you drive on it and break other parts in the process and the bill gets higher. When you notice something is wrong stop driving until it is fixed this is the main cause for the bill being higher.
great job explaining and not being a troll like earnhardtx .
...interesting troubleshooting technique, with the brake caliper, to see if the brake line has some integrity left in it. It's a very thorough understanding, and it's much appreciated.
I had a 1990 Lincoln Continental which had a brake caliper disintegrate on me, when I was changing brakes one day, it was seized a bit, so I hit it with a hammer. Bam! Huge chunks of pieces came off the assembly. I was stunned, I had never seen that before in all my years of working on my own vehicles. The car was nearly 20 years old at the time, I had to scramble to several salvage yards, in Tyler, TX, to locate a replacement. I finally located a Ford Taurus, same model year, with the same ABS configuration, which fit perfectly on the Lincoln.
.
It WAS a nice car, finally parked it on an empty lot in 2012, and abandoned it. lol
Good Job takes about 1.5 hrs to do both sides
Nice vid. Thanks man.
good video, nice quick work. you saved me $300 bucks sir!
GOOD VIDEO VERY GOOD EXPLAINED !!!!!!!PERFECT
Hey, thanks this was a great help!
This video did help me, yet I did need a tool to pop the CV axle out of the hub assembly. I do have a video of that tool you can use on my channel. The Chevrolet Uplander is a great car, and swapping out minor parts can make this automobile last for a very long time.
Very good video because I need to do the exact same thing to the exact same year for the exact same reason haha. But I only have a question and not criticism but you said you had replaced the hubs once before and I'm assuming you used the Chinese ones like I bought but how many miles did you get out of it before you had to replace it again?
Good job. I got the Detroit axle hubs from Amazon. I di all four. They fail after 10k. One i did in a state Forest. I went through all the mistakes that happened to you.
I have trouble getting specs for my 2005 Uplander. But being a mechanical guy, i get specs for the bolts it all works out fine. Anti sieze compound is the greatest eh?
very good video.
My FSM says the torque spec for the spindle nut is 118 lb/ft, not 150 lb/ft. Perhaps you are going through bearings too quickly due to over torquing . . .
If you don't have a cheater bar, i use the Jack's pump up bar. Pull the grip off.
good job very fast and for every car the specs are not the same thanks for not saying that smart thinking. and you are not paying for this video so you should look up all specs. this is for all the trolls.
Thanks for video. My 2008 Montana takes a 33 mm socket on the axel nut if anyone is working on one of those.
I tgought it was too big also
I have a question can I Yest clean it and reuse it again or would that Yest bring the same problem again like turn on Yest the abs
you should replace it .
aaron murawski alright
No Loctite on caliper bracket or hub to knuckle,No torque wrench on them either,Pretty poor instructions! Give proper procedure's or none at all.
make a video then and if your so perfect what the hell are you look this up for troll
Troll? Did you just learn that word today!Truth hurts.
@@Earnhardtx 3 years later im watching your ass and I know everthing
your funny show me your video shit head
hello my bitch are you there ?