I change mine every 5k miles with full synthetic and a oem honda filter. Bought my rsx at 198k and now I’m 283k running smooth. I think I lucked out that the previous owner did a good job with it too.
This is the way. I got a Toyota and do the same thing. Thankfully Toyota oil filters are dirt cheap. Aftermarket filters work but they are significantly smaller for some odd reason.
Good video. Oil changes are a lot cheaper than parts changes. The OEM maintenance schedules are based on "normal" driving conditions. Unfortunately, most people's driving conditions fall under "severe" driving conditions which have shorter maintenance intervals.
Agree. Normal driving conditions is a poorly understood concept (usually the minimum requirements for engine warranty repairs) and also more designed to comply with EPA extended maintenance mandates than engine longevity. Just assume the severe driving oil change schedule means normal driving conditions; IOW minimum 6 months or 5000 miles. And if you actually have severe driving conditions such as towing, extended stop and go driving/ extended idling, or numerous short trips under 20 minutes where your vehicle rarely reaches operating temperature or only does so for a short period of time (exasperates oil dilution especially with GDI engines), drop it down to 3000 mile intervals.
@@TheOnespeedbiker speaking of severe driving, I've seen idiots flooring their cars when backing up in parking lots. Not only it is dangerous, but they are also ruining their cars. Can you imaging reving an engine to 5000 rpm when it's cold?
@@sovietrepublic38 One thing many don't consider is the opposite, that being rarely driving with your engine over 3000 RPM. One of the main reasons for 7-10 speed transmissions is super overdrive for better MPG. My 2021 Jeep Cherokee with a Pentastar engine is only turning about 2000 RPM at 70 MPH, meaning the engine is rarely spinning fast enough to burn off carbon deposits.
@@TheOnespeedbiker yes, you do need to rev the engine over 3000 rpm sometimes. I put in lower gear on highway for few mins once in a while to burn carbon, but definitely don't want to do this when the car is cold.
@@sovietrepublic38 LOL no, not when cold. Interestingly with the Audi A3 with the 2.0 TFSI, when driving the engine at just over 3000 RPM raises the temperature and puts the engine into a “cleaning mode” where it runs leaner and hotter clearing out a lot of the carbon build up around the intake valves (a chronic problem with all the GDI engines). I don't know how good it works but Audi recommends you do this once a week for 15 minutes.
Biggest issue I see with extended oil change intervals is that most people don’t check their oil level and many new and newer cars/trucks burn oil. So your running your car on low oil and that’s what leads to the most failures
Daves2520, I also just bought a Venza (2015) and plan on changing the oil every 5000 miles. I could probably go further than that as I drive majority highway miles, but I’d like to see how long this thing can last! 😃👍🏼
Here up north Canada we follow the severe conditions maintenance recommended by the manufacturer. I have Mazda 2010 2.3l with 150k miles no oil consumption and the engine is clean. My 2018 ford escape ecoboost titanium every 3000 miles. Those ecoboost are very tough on oil you can see the difference between the two engines how black the oil is with the Ford. Great job!!
Agreed! I have the same engine. I change every 5000 miles with full synthetic. Sometimes I do it a little sooner. I do a drain and fill to the trans every 10,000 miles. 4-1/4 quarts and it takes 10 minutes. Castrol Transmax full synthetic Ford approved LV. I don’t like the Motorcraft LV, to many failed transmissions with that
While I agree with you, there are people that do 10,000 mile intervals and get these engines to 200k-300k mikes without issue. They’re using the right oil, they have the right engine for it, they keep the oil level full, and they have an easy commute. But yet I agree with you.
@@doublebase6509I have a 2016 Honda Civic 2.0L i4 (non-turbo). I drive primarily hwy miles so I do OCI’s of 6K-7K miles. Hondas need to have their valves adjusted periodically. When we took the valve cover off at 150K, the valve train was silvery, clean, no varnish, deposits, or sludge at all. Quality oils, filters, and regular maintenance (also not dogging the car to death) can lead to longevity. I’m hoping to get at least 300K miles on it before I retire. 😊
4 to 5K intervals for me on oil changes, never more than 5000, my Tacoma has 267k on it & still feels like new to me performance wise. On my pilot the same interval I use penzoil & mobile 1 with oem filters.
Finally! A REAL explanation to why engines begine consuming oil. I always say to use the best, longest life oil and filter I can reasonably purchase, and then change it on time. I use a lot of 20,000 mile rated oils, but then change it at half that mileage or no longer than 6 months or one year even if lots of highway miles and limited short trips. For engines that are consuming oil already and need rings and ring grooves cleaned safely, use HPL engine cleaner for a few oil changes with a high mileage synthetic, or use Valvoline's Restore and Protect oil for a few oil changes. Both of these will clean your engine safely over time and bring back a newer state to your piston ring grooves and free yp those rings
You mentioning HPL means we travel in the same oil/automotive circles, and those are good informative circles to be in. I’d like to try HPL for a run but for my driving conditions it’s probably not worth the added cost. Restore and Protect sounds interesting…I’ve seen the videos and claims. I’m always doubtful with engine cleaning claims but I’d certainly try both if I needed to. Thanks for the comment!
Interesting to learn about pistons and timing belts. Funny, I never thought about the belt being lubricated by oil and that is another reason to keep the oil clean. Thank you.
Thank you. Just to be clear, a timing belt engine does not submerge the timing belt in oil, it’s sealed away from the oil. The crank and cam sprockets have seals around them (cam and crank seals) that prevent the oil from ever touching that belt. Then the belt is covered externally by a plastic timing cover. Oil would ruin a timing belt pretty quickly. The timing chain engines are different, the chains are submerged in that oil, and the oil is contained in the engine by a metal/aluminum timing cover. And these new timing chains are HUGE compared to old style short chains of the 80’s. They’re big, complex, and they need clean oil to keep the pins and rollers from gathering soot, which stretches the chains just enough to cause problems (noise, timing issues, misfires).
@@doublebase6509 I had meant to write timing chain, sorry that I stated belt. I did not know the new chains are so complex now. I appreciate the detail that you go into a subject. I am subscribed!
2002 Mazda Protege 5, 2.0 engine - I change oil every 5k miles Full Synthetic 10W30 with Lucas Oil Stabilizer added - now with 170K miles on ODO, no issues, no loss of power. no overheating. 🤞 recently did valve cover gasket replacement and the engine inside looked like a new! Keeps going 👍
I recently got a 22' WRX, the maintenance manual calls for 6k oil change intervals and I will be doing 3k based on this video and other people's experiences I've read online.
Great video! I live in a very temperate area in Texas. Summer heat goes up to 110’ and winter down to 25 degrees. My daily ride of 13 years has been to always change the oil right around 3k for the first 5-6 years of ownership but later I got lazy and started to do oil changes every 5k. My 2012 Honda Goldwing has 145k with old change every 5k with regular nonsynthetic Honda oil from Amazon for $30 and call it a day! I have never bought expensive oil in my life. Never used any expensive oil and used mostly nonsynthetic stuff and have no issues.
I just started changing mine every 2,000 with the cheapest synthetic that’s dexos 2 approved ORRR 90 days. I never knew the base oil begins to oxidize so quickly…good info
That is a good move. With a 2000-mile oil change interval, you do not need to use any kind of special filter either. Low-end and no-name filters are made to go 5000 miles, but not more. I got a one-owner 2001 Camry Le four with 143K on it back in early 2021. Some aspects of the maintenance had been ignored but the owner had been meticulous about oil changes over the entire life of the car. I have been keeping a 2800-mile oil change interval based on all in-town driving. 30,000 miles later, the engine is still as tight as new. I use whatever oil is the cheapest and a Supertech filter. All dino oil is semisynthetic now. Originally, my oil change interval was 2500 miles with conventional oil.
These pistons look like they came out of my daughters' car. she changed the oil every 10K miles. The engine was basically junk at 175K. If you want the engine to last twice as long change the oil twice as often. It's just common sense.
@gardenstaterx8661 The oil is still protecting bearing surfaces but its carbon ring buildup that does the long term damage. I change mine when the oil turns black.
@@int53185 I do disagree with your opening statement. I believe in oil analysis. There are a thousand scenarios and criteria for differences in necessitating an oil change. Oil analysis is key.
5K miles or every 6 months, which ever comes first is a good rule to go by. What I have done for a long time and it seems to fair well. I do use a full synthetic oil.
I've a 2011 Toyota Camry LE, 59,000 miles. I've owned it for the past 15,000 miles. I do an oil+filter change every 5K, religiously. I've also done a drain/refill on the power steering (Mercon V) and the coolant system (Toyota spec.). I will also drain/refill the tranny oil (Dex VI) tomorrow. Car runs like a champ. I plan on keeping it forever.
I have a 13 highlander which i bought new with the same engine as your camry and gets 5k mile oil changes with 0w-20 oil. It has 135k miles and still drives like new. All maintenance done by me.
I purchased my first car about 25 years ago and at that time the recommended oil change frequency was 3000 miles which I followed religiously and that car lasted me 12 years with little to no problems. Since then I’ve noticed manufacturers keep extending the interval from 3k to 5k to now 7k. However I always still change my oil about 4-5k miles based on my experience with my first car.
@@lanceshier741True, and the reason engines last so much longer on average today. But regardless of the quality of the oil, I believe contaminants are the issue. Cleaner oil = longevity. I vote for more frequent oil changes than manufacturers recommendations. Cheap insurance. Also good for resale, more frequent oil changes is an indicator of an owner that cares. Will impress a future buyer.
@@Frank-nh9fe That is true, especially when the engine is cold and the oil is thick. I think that's why many OEM filters are so inefficient at filtering- the engineers prioritized minimal flow restriction and minimal bypass over filtering particles that are too small to do significant damage anyways. One sufficiently large chunk that gets through while the filter is in bypass can do a LOT more damage than many tiny particles ever could.
Running a 2015 BMW X535i xdrive, oil change with Castrol Full Syn Euro spec every 5k miles on the dot. Got 200k miles last month and still running like a champ. Lots of oil leaks due to embrittled gaskets and plastic parts, etc. But I do take care of those upon first sight. So far so good. Tuned it to run 400hp and 435tq at the moment, it's strong.
Concise explanation of this contentious matter, this was very good. Funny how we tend to take notice of the engine manufacturer regarding oil grade when at the same time they are pulling our chain on intervals. We know the OEM engineers are overruled for commercial reasons. Kind of makes me sceptical of everything the manufacturer tells us. I also note you were not anti non-OEM filters. I'm wary of aftermarket filter by-pass valve pressure calibration and if anti-drain valves are fitted (especially on high engine filter locations. Thanks again for the great consumer guidance, very well put.
Well said, and thanks. Regarding the filters, you bring up a good point. I know there are some engines that are sensitive to bypass pressures if they are off just a little bit. I’ve never had a problem, although I certainly have used my fair share of OEM filter. I’m really liking the Fram Ultra cartridge filters for the Toyota, but I’ve used OEM more often...they’re cheaper and rated for 10,000 miles. Mobil 1 makes a decent filter, Amsoil too, but they’re expensive at $20 plus a filter. And you’re right, OEM engineers are overruled for commercial reasons, and regional warranty campaigns. An oil change interval or viscosity is not always the same depending on where you are in the world.
Changing oil that frequently seems a bit excessive.... I'm certain there is a point of diminishing returns... I hope your engine lasts you a long long time. What kind of car do you drive and where do you live? I'm in Alberta, Canada and Toyota recommends changing the oil every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms) or every 6 months - whichever comes first. I change my oil every 4 months because of the extreme cold and because I predominantly do city driving (City 70% / Highway 30%).
On the Honda Accord forums there’s a guy who went a million miles in his Accord (original engine), he did 15,000 mile oil changes the entire way. Older Accord with the tuned port injected, no turbo. Another guy was trying to do the same in a newer generation Accord, think he made it half the distance before his newer engine/direct injected motor had to be replaced. You’re 100% right, it’s the engine design and commute (mostly).
My 2008 mazda 6 3.0 gets high end synthetic every 7500k as per trh manufacturer and it has 240k and runs like a top. But my 2018 mazda 3 2.5l being direct injection gets changes at 5k as per manufacturer and at 64k it uses no oil and has minimal carbon (so far). All my cars get lots of highway driving and the occasional 'italian tuneup'. Havibg said all that, i agree with you about those 10k + changes. No oil should stay in the engine that long.
In that Toyota Engine...I would recommend sticking to the 0W-20 and 5,000 mile oil intervals. I have a Camry with the 2.5L engine that takes 0W-20 with almost 250,000 miles. No oil burning issues at oil. Engines are way more expensive than oil changes. I change mine every 5,000 miles with a good full synthetic oil and the Toyota TRD Oil filter. No problems.
@@BOSS-xy8op Ok, so it was AMSoil and Pennz Ultra occasionally. Not SuperTech, no? Like many other say on the Internet that SuperTech is as good as other more expensive oil. Gotcha. You used excellent and quite expensive oil and no wonder you engine did good, it had to truly perform well indeed. Thank you for sharing.
@@nicholaspetre1 SuperTech makes a great oil, so does Kirkland Motor Oil from Costco. But as for me, I've been using Amsoil for over 18 years and they haven't failed me yet. The Amsoil OE is not too far off in price compared to other oils. But I do believe in frequent oil changes is the key, rather if you are using Amsoil or any other decent full synthetic, you'll be alright.
I’m running Mobil1 5W30 in my car right now. And I’m doing a 10,000 mile interval. I plan on doing a 10,000 experiment video - ive done one analysis, came out great...no oil consumption, nothing. This is my 3rd (or 4th) 10,000 mile interval. But this engine is capable of handling it (2GRFE), I wouldn’t do it on every engine, especially direct injection turbos, with variable valve timing, etc.
My 2002 Lexus ES300 has 176k miles. 1MZ-FE engine is silky smooth. Bought it 2 years ago from original owner w 160k miles. Been using Pennzoil Full synthetic high mileage 5W-30 oil changes at 5k intervals. I can say it burned about 1 quart after my first oil change when I used the non high mileage full synthetic Pennzoil, but after switching to the high mileage oil it doesn’t burn one drop in 5000 miles
I change the oil and filter in my 1974 GMC C1500 and 1997 Pontiac Bonneville at 3,000 miles with conventional high mileage Pennzoil and quality filters like Wix. My 1998 Ford E150 4.6 gets a Motorcraft filter and full synthetic Pennzoil, it's currently at 212,000 miles.
96 Nissan Sentra. Mobil 1 with filter. 15,000 usually highway mile drain intervals. Oil analysis said do another 15,000 before next change. I got rid of that car at 285,000. It still ran beautifully.
Did you use the regular Mobil1 or the Mobil1 EP? I love hearing how these long intervals do for people that actually took the car to high mileage. I wouldn’t try something like that on a modern car though, not with direct injection, turbos, timing chains. I Imagine that your Nissan engine was timing belt, easy on oil, reliable, etc. I’ve done a few 10,000 mile intervals on my Toyota. Great oil analysis with it...came back looking like a 3,000 mile oil change, but I just don’t have the stomach to keep doing them. I think the sweet spot with this current car for me is probably going to end up being 6,500. I could push it further, I might, but I’m not sure I want to with this one. I plan on keeping it past 300k
@@doublebase6509 Great videos. I sense an accent from the northeast?! I’m from California, we say DUDE and AWESOME and EXCELLENT! Lol I’m all honesty. On my Sentra, I used strictly Mobil 1 from Walmart. I used Mobil 1 oil filters. I kid you not, Blackstone said “try another 15,000 miles.” Yes, it was predominately highway miles, but how cool is that?! You go to your doctor for bloodwork. I like to know my cholesterol, vitamin D, testosterone levels. If my doctor says all is good, I won’t change anything. Just like my oil sample. Getting so tired of “you have to change every 5k.” Oil analysis is blood work. And Walmart? I’m on an Acura now. Super Tech 5 qt synthetic is $20! If Blackstone says 10k miles, I’ll go 10k miles! Cheers! Happy subscriber.
I have 2-1971 Datsun 521 trucks having one for 45 yrs while the other for 27yrs. The owners manual states motor oil change interval at 2000 miles. I generally change at 800-1200 miles where the oil filter size is the same size used on all big block Fords. They run beautiful. The engines 1.6l sohc Datsun L16, were Trans national champions in the day 1971 and 1972 ran in the Datsun 510.
@@royderouin7510 You are one smart man!! Few have pil change intervals so low. The most I ever paid for a motor vehicle is $1500 for one truck while the other $800. They are primarily hobbies now since I get around on the classic old school mtn bicycles. I remember in 1966 my dad's freind was a salesmen at a chevy dealership in Flint, MI. He showed us a 283 v8 that siezed. With valve covers off, I could not see valve springs or anything on cylinder head as it was encrusted with sludge. The salesman told us the owner had changed the oil in his one car then placed the used oil in the 283. In those days, oil was mainly straight weight non detergent. A premature death to say the least. This observation at 7 yrs old impacted my behavior for the rest of my life. I'm 64!!!
I got a 2017 Impala 2 years ago with 34k miles. It currently has 56k miles. I do all the maintenance on it, oil changes every 3k miles. I always check it every 1k miles, and at 2k, it is already dirty. I use a Wix XP filter and Pennzoil Platinum. Still runs smooth. These new engines just run hotter and are dirtier, which for city driving (stop and go), do oil changes more often.
10,000km (6000m) full synthetic 5/30 + filter every 2nd change seems to work for my vehicles - but the climate is a lot less severe here in NZ than the US i would think.
As my turbo ages, I went from a 5K interval as the owner's manual states to 4K. It uses a bit of oil, so I check it frequently. The other non turbo car, 5K to 6K. I put Pennz UP in or the turbo and Mobil One for the other car. OEM filters I also buy in bulk. It gets my oil change total cost down to around $32 bucks. Not bad. The Pennz UP, I buy in bulk when it goes on sale, I have five jugs at present at a blended cost of just over $26 bucks each.
Its all down to your driving requirements. Constant cold start and short journeys add gas to your oil and so dilute it. Generally speaking, a engine needs to get rid of gas from the oil, that means long journeys. Cold engines also stress your oil and dont become hot till about 8miles. If you do lots of short journeys then your oil should be changed at half the recommended, if not more. Use your dipstick to give you a hint, if the oil is dark -change it. DONT GO BY RECOMMENDED MILES, GO BY THE WAY THE CAR IS USED. RECOMMENDED MILES ASSUME LOTS OF LONG JOURNEYS OFTEN. Oil is expensive, but parts and labour far more.
For the past 6 years ive been using mobil1 20k mile oil on my vehiles. I change it once a year reguardless of mileage. Typically i run 15k to 20k miles a year in florida. No issues on my end.(knocking on wood)
I mean, I wouldn’t go 20,000 miles on an oil change, but if it’s working for you? Nice. And you’ve probably done your research. I’ve used the Mobil1 extended performed several times, seem to do a good job. I have run it 10,000 miles before with oil analysis that came back great. But I just don’t have the stomach for it. Although I may perform an experiment to see if I can do 10,000 mile intervals, and still get to 300,000 miles without issue.
So nice to see that in America the oil change is mostly done about 5000 miles. Here in Europe common is between 20.000 km - 30.000 km or 12.000 miles - 18.000 miles. what i see for years as a car mechanic that this is to long with al kinds of issues when cars get older. I recommend the costumer to do a oilchange within 10.000 km or 6000 miles. Nowadays with the small down grade engines here. 3 cilinder turbocharged, 900cc and more are giving issues in the long term.
Me & my wife bought our 1st brand new car in 2021, live in North East, 1st 3 oil changes I changed it at 2000 miles, now between 3000-3500, Honda filter, Mobil 1
i probably wouldn't use Mobil 1 considering what they do to S2000 engines. If you gonna go off the shelf, use Pennzoil ultra. I would recommend amsoil.
I have a direct-injected Turbo engine... I always change @ 5K miles with Motul 8100 X-Clean... I only use OE or Mann filters and I have a catch can. I have zero issues with oil consumption.
No matter what the computer tells about service intervals I do my oil changes every 5.000 miles and cvt transmission every 30.000 2015 accord now with 165.000 miles runs perfect And still counting no thinking to get a new car any time soon
I would like to see someone do a study where they buy a new car or truck and never change the oil and see how long it will last. I suspect longer than a lot of people think.
True story, I was in a class where the instructor worked for Toyota, Mobil1 was working with Toyota at the time to formulate their oil for their 10,000 mile intervals. A lot of concern from the facility reps over this, as expected - Mobil1 assured them that their oil could go a lot further than 10,000 miles. Not sure how much longer but a lot further. Me? I’ve always been a 5,000 mile guy, but in the right engine/right commute/right oil, I think 10,000 is very doable.
My 03 CRV was checked by Honda at 211k miles and the technician said that the engine was spotless...It now has 309k miles and still immaculate inside and runs like a Top
Those engines were great! I have a 2008 with 180,000 on it, haven’t done a single out of pocket repair on it yet. 5,000 mile intervals. I also do the coolant and tranny every other year. I do the rear diff as well
19,000 miles oil change. That is the standard here in the Netherlands!! Every company car is maintained at 19 or 20,000 miles! I change it myself every 9,000 and everyone calls me a freak and a moron!
Manufactures recommend fluid change intervals are so your vehicle dies outside of warranty. Especially transmission fluid intervals. It should be changed every 30,000 miles or less. I do a trans drain and fill every 10,000 miles and it takes 10 minutes
I bought my Ford Fiesta 1.25 manual brand new. Changed oil according to manufacturers recommendations every 20kkm. In 6 years made 160kkm (warranty 100kkm) and guess what? Nothing happened. Because frequent oil change is no more than a kind of religion fed by garages who are interested in the frequent oil changes. It's hard to step out and see that the manufacturer knows better because he is interested in your satisfaction with his car. Yes, if you pray, it won't harm you, you might even think that it helps, but if you don't pray it makes a little difference.
Guys, I think the issue is that people are not following the owners manual. in my country KSA I have Camry 2015 the manual requires me to change the oil every 3100miles under severe conditions. the reasons I think are: - extreme hot weather - We can use mineral oil; anything from 0w20 to 20w50
Informative. My only advice is the PCV valve if they have it needs to be changed on regular schedule to avoid oil burning also. I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 453,000 miles. Original drivetrain. I monitor all my fluids. Use Castrol full synthetic oil and transmission fluid. Don''t cheap out on oil and air filters. Minimal oil useage. 5,000 mile oil changes until 350,00 miles. Then started every 3000-3500 miles now.
Yeah good point, the PCV valve will cause oil burning. I have run into instances where oil will track into the intake and it wasn’t because of the PCV valve - what happens is when these rings get worn too much, the blow by enters the crankcase and pushes the oil up through the PCV system and into the intake manifold. There’s nothing you can do at that point. But the Sienna van is LEGENDARY for reliability and longevity. I’m hoping to get my Avalon to 500,000 miles some day.
84 VW rabbit convertible 1.8 8V 450,000 miles original motor manual was replaced. 89 VW Golf GT 1.8 8V 289,000 miles. Original motor manual was replaced. 98 VW Jetta 2.0 8V 327,000 miles first motor hydrolock bent rod. Used motor didn’t last very long after that. Original manual. 01 VW Jetta 2.0 8V 300,000 miles. Original motor and manual. Car is still seen in my town 6 years later driving. Still in contact with the owner. 2005 Kia spectra. 300,000 miles. Original motor and manual. Sold the car and still running. Currently 06 Rabbit 2.5 5cyl. 195,000. Manual of course. All on 10k oil change intervals. Use good oil and filters. These were all non turbo and no direct injection. If they were I would cut the interval in half.
Yeah I’m kind of torn on the longer drain intervals even on port injected engines, but I’m currently trying them (on an engine that historically is easy on oil). But there is evidence that the longer intervals are ok on some engines/some commutes/some driving conditions. A guy made it 1,000,000 miles in his Honda Accord doing 15,000 mile intervals using off the shelf synthetics. Too me that’s impressive. He also was a courier doing a lot of highway driving in the Texas heat. I think that helps. Plus his engine was a port injected V6.
220,000 miles on my 2010 Corolla. Oil change every 3k. 3,6,9,12,15….. easy to remember. Once I hit 100k, every 2k. My engines never failed. Water pump, yep. Brake pads, yep, rust yes. But never the engine. I’ll skip the filter once in the snow or cold if I have to. Great video
@@davidsoto7114 I change the filter every time anyway. Sometimes I’ll skip it ONCE if the snow and cold are a bitch here in the northeast USA. THATS ABOUT ONCE A YEAR. Lol
@@roogermoore6135 Changing oil in cold sucks. I'm lucky I don't drive 3k miles in 6 months. So it's just 2 oil changes a year. One right before it gets cold and and spring time.
10k mile internals were driven by the need to have low maintenance costs for the JD Power rankings. Most warranties end at 75 to 100k and the data says they'll last that long on a 10k interval. The car mfg is thinking of themselves and not you. My Element has 304k on 5k oil changes and 45k atf changes. Original engine and trans.
@@dmironyuk true buddy. But I rather have that peace of mind of just getting on my vehicles and hit the highway, trails have a few lagers, Pilsners or bourbon and chill with a box of cigars. Cheers brother.
Either my bikes or cars, my rule is....FOLLOW the Service manual. You will not have any issues. They even tell you when to change it in a harsh/dusty environment. Its a no brainer. I never had to open an engine ever!!!! My Cherokee clocks my oil change from 100% - 0%. Jeep says, synthetic. I change mine at 5% oil life left and its around 9K. My Goldwing says every 8K or one year. I change it at 6K cause I like higher HWY speeds. Follow that and you are good to go.
I change my oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic. I do a drain and fill to my transmission (4-1/4 quarts) every 10,000 with Castrol Transmax full synthetic. Cheap and easy, both take 10 minutes.
I've been religiously following the 5k, full synthetic regimen with all my cars for years. And I've owned 3 Toyotas in the last 15 years and 2 of 3 are running like a clock with over 200k, and the other, a 98 Corolla, has about 175k and running fine.
Toyota had a problem with valve stem seals on the four cylinder engines. It would cause smoke at start up but never bothered anything else. Plugs didn't fowl. Just change your oil every 5,000 miles or at least two times a year. Oil is cheap rebuilding an engine is not.
Great videos. Did you say WMT is the armpit of hell?! Lol. Hey, WMT is a destination. Think about it, over 100,000 items, clean restrooms, restaurant, deli, auto center, good service. It’s a destination IMHO.
Yeah, I get what you’re saying. But ever since they’ve gone to mostly self checkout...I’ve just, I don’t know. I can’t stand it anymore. And before that it was getting equally worse, they’d have 50 registers in the store, but only two people actually working them. Drove me nuts. I’d be standing in line for 20 minutes, person behind me trying to give me a carriage colonoscopy. I still shop there occasionally, I just can’t stand it though. They move everything every time I go there. I’m like, what are we doing? Is this some sort of Easter egg hunt? Like, yesterday you had the fertilizer over here, and today where is it? You don’t have anyone actually working a register anymore and yet you have people hiding and moving things every other day?. 😂😂. But I get it, can’t beat their prices, the “convenience” of just quickly going there and grabbing something off the shelf (rather than ordering it online through Amazon or something). But man, I’ve seen some things there. I’ve seen a guy walk around with no shirt on for over an hour. Platinum blond hair, probably 70 years old, wearing a pair of Wrangler jeans and nothing else. Totally hammered. Thought...they’ll get him out of here in ten minutes. Nope! An hour later he’s asking me where the coleslaw is, and it’s right in front of his face (that was probably my most memorable experience at a Walmart). The other watching a guy flip out in the electronics section...guy threw a cell phone case three aisles away, screaming, YOUR MOTHER!!!
2005 accord 432.000 miles Chicago stop n go and highway 10,000 mile changes Mobile 1 purolator filter not one problem now walmart oil 5/20 for the last 200,000 miles minimum it uses about 1/2 quart every 10,000
That’s some serious miles! I made to almost 300,000 in a 1999 Honda Accord before the thing just became unmanageable to drive everyday. But I loved that car.
i do 10 000km (6250 miles) on fully synthetic and better then recommended (low ash and high interval oil) (i have seen the VW507.00 spec oil do fantastic even under abuse) i have seen a friend did not change his oil on his toyota 1.4L diesel and he did close to 60 000 miles on the oil (he topped up with the same high spec oil) and the engine serviced. when i took it out it cam eout just fine "hot" it was like tar when cold and took for ever to get in a empty jug. i open the filter an dit was just fine. no problem no real crap. the modern direct injected petrol engines have BIG problems with micro soot getting in to the oil and eating up the timing chine.. replace oil often on direct injected engines whatever they say in the book!
I’ve been following the maintenance minder on my various Honda’s for the past 15 years or so. Due to vastly different driving cycles, oil changes have come up anywhere between 3,000 miles and 11,000 miles. I’ll stick with that since it seems to account for usage rather than miles.
You do not have to change synthetic oil once a year, when you drive less miles, or let the vehicle sit for a period. Synthetic oil never breaks down like conventional oils. Save your money doing 3k mileage oil changes. I grew up in dad's truck fleet garage, rebuilding my boat engines, and for 50 years, I DIY all my vehicle and boat repairs and rebuilds. The rare times I hired a mechanic, is only because I don't have the specialty tool or scan tool, and I tell them exactly what the problem is in advance. There are no tow trucks at sea!
@@keithhults8986 Synthetic oil absolutely has an expiration. It's even on the bottle itself. Shelf life is typically 5 years. And when it's in your engine that is significantly shorter. It's not a sealed system, and there are contaminants that get into your oil over time. The detergents can only do so much, so it's a good idea to change once a year even on low mileage cars.
i plan to do my oil change on my 8.1L pick up . I will use full synthetic oil. I don't plan to drive it more than 2500 miles until next october next year. Is it OK to do the oil change only when it reach 5 to 8 000 miles regardless how many years it will take to reach this mileage? Thanks!
yes change oil. If you have a kia hyundai 1.6, 2.0, 2.4 GDI you can try the KIA TSB for high oil consumption. I did as a last resort. using 1 quart+ per 1000 miles. After the TSB and an added oil flush seem to work. B12 chemtool - we used that to de carbon competitive firearms.
10,000 miles oil change is a joke. It’s only to save the stealership money. If you want to keep your car for a very long time do it at 5,000 miles. But that’s just me. You do what you want because you’re the owner.
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9L V6 4x4 that my grandma gave me. She bought it new back in 99 right out of the factory and always had the oil and filter changed every 2,000 miles. I change the oil every 3,000 and to this day at 24 years old, the truck still doesn’t burn oil at 187,000 miles
Change my Oil on my 2018 accord T every 4 thousand miles for my peace of mind. I live in San Antonio Tx and it’s hot AF most times of the year and traffic driving definitely kills the oil especially when it’s 100 degrees. I also do Uber and Doordash . So oil changes are a must.
Regarding the oil viscosity change on the Toyota V6, I also question Toyota's advice as they likely didn't change the engine internals. I have a 2012 ES350 and the oil cap says 5w-30 but the dealer wants to put in 5w-20 since they don't bother stocking the 5w-30. I feel safer with the 5w-30 since I only drive it in the summer.
Yeah, if it’s saying 5w30 on the cap I’d definitely keep the 5W30 in it. Mine says 0W20 and I just bumped it up to a 5W30. I figure, it’s not that much different and this engine has been around a long time. Every search I’ve done there’s plenty of folks running the 5W30 without issue
@@doublebase6509 Say WHAT !?? You say to "do what it says on the Oil Cap" in regards to the 5-W-30 oil, but then you turn around and tell us that your Cap says 0-W-20 -- but you "bumped it up" to a 5-W-30 because "It's not much different". You were right the 1st time -- Put the Oil in that the Manufacturers recommend for their Engine Oil Viscosity.
In areas with very warm climate once the engine reaches operating temp the 5w-30 will be better at protecting engine parts than the watery 0w-20, which might be a perfect choice for real winter conditions. The fuel economy will be lower with 5w-30 due to higher frictional losses - the number one reason companies switched to very light oils to follow the stinking CAFE regulations. 0w-30 might be good alternative, I use it instead of 5w-20.
@@pliedtka It's absolutely amazing -- the number of people that think that they know more about engine oils, their uses, and climatic requirements than the engineers that designed and built their engines. Get a clue -- Use the Oil Viscosity that is recommended in your Owner's Manual or is indicated on your Oil Fill Cap. I've lived in the desert for over 50 years -- 180,000 miles on the V-8 engine -- I run constant engine temps of 185-200 F. Recommended Oil Viscosity is 5-W-30, Bosch Premium Oil Filter # 3410; FilterMag Magnet Kit. Oil & Filter changes at 5,000 Miles. Rational adults know that those CAFE Regulations were NOT put there for ignorant malcontents to ignore. 😁
@@SlikLizrd The thinner oils, like 0w-16, exist only for mpg and CAFE, not because they are superior in terms of reduced wear. Yes, the engines can handle it, but they will show lower wear with a slightly thicker oil.
Agreed. The machines need clean oil running them. Its only an extra $250 over 300,000 miles to split your intervals in half. Every 5,000 miles is one simple way to avoid sludge, clogged oil return rings and intake carbon buildup
I have a 2016 Toyota Camry SE (4-Cyl) and started out changing the oil every 10,000 miles and they after 40,000 miles I saw a video here on RUclips that talked about 5,000 mile intervals were better! "Car Care Nut" showed engines that had issues from 10,000 mile oil changes, I drive 7,800 (city) miles a year, 11 miles one-way to work and I live in Western Pa.
I love the car care nut, he’s probably the most practical tech I’ve seen on RUclips. I love his videos, he gives some great information about working on Toyota’s. I used his bleed technique sequence video to help me bleed the cooling system on my own car. Useful stuff.
I watched that video too. We don’t know the true history of those car that got the bad rings. Did they use a cheap 5W-20 synthetic blend at jiffy lube, a non synthetic, or 0W-20 neglecting the car driving 20000 miles? Many people don’t check the dip stick. The oil could’ve been low most of the time. I have no issues driving driving with oil changes up to 10000 on my 2010 Camry LE 170000 miles. I use Mobil 1 on the Toyota vehicles in my house. May even switch them all over to Amsoil signature after I use up the Mobil 1. Im sure Castrol and Pennzoil are great oil too. I’m sure they all do fine. Much of the oil change debate is different car to car and if people don’t drive far enough to heat up the engine to operating temperature and drive it for a while. Many variables come into play.
@@NorthlanderMN yeah, you’re right. Another thing…the engine he references in his video has known issues of oil consumption - that person could have changed their oil every 5,000 miles and it may not have made any difference…the engine could still have failed.
All our large farm machinery engines have 200 hour oil and filter changes. Never had engine issues..... My car gets 5,000 km oil and filter changes cheaper than repairs 😊
Oil change intervals are not Woke. It's not all about the expressing your personal truth and your authentic self. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles and the engine will last a very long time with minimal wear. Also, check your oil level every week. If it's a little low top it off.
Not just piston rings ,front and rear main seal doesn't like contamination oils between them and crank shaft and it's not cheap to replace. There's no carguy wants see his car with oils leaks doesn't matter he's wants to keep it for 50.000 miles or 500.000 miles .of course any engine will runs and survive with 10 or 15.000 miles oils change intervals but with others problems come with it. The more late on oil change the more problems it will get
Maple syrup! I'm a pleased Corolla owner and completely agree. My 2000 was the year for the piston issue you mention, but my interval of 5000 has helped I think (3 better I'm sure), I switched to synthetic, twice so far which they say 10k but I do 7500, but might stick to 5000. I might also try the high mileage flavor as it does seem to be burning some oil now (requiring a 1/4 qt between change or so), but I'm hoping it's just the synthetic leaking through some old seals. I had a MB and was told the expensive oil change was justified because you 'only have to do it every 10k miles'... I think that was the start of the 'interval inflation' you discuss. My Corolla is at 197k, I was going to go till 200 to change, but I think I'll do it sooner. Regarding going higher viscosity for Toyota, I heard that's a good way to clog your vvt valves.
This is an excellent explanation about lubrication and the sub standard parts inside today's engines. My 25yr old Sienna has 167k on a 3.0 non interference V6 and was losing, using 1qt of best filter vastly increases the engine life. Especially my rebuilt marine engines. I use Hastings, WIX, and NAPA Gold, are the best filters. FRAM, Carquest and PRONTO filters are next to useless.
People have suggested to me running that low SAPS oil in my gas engines. I might give that a try. It’s a little pricey, but I like to experiment. A friend of mine just became an Amsoil dealer, I was thinking about giving that a try as well.
Fun fact, I work at an independent NAPA chain, our Napa brand filters are actually manufactured by WIX. Also, if you're concerned about it, there are Platinum level filters that are better than gold, but are usually special order (next day or few days)
I do 5k on my non turbos and 3k on my turbo, I stay away from that high mileage mumbo jumbo and I never had a problem, I keep my cars for a minimum of 12 years.
Castrol EDGE is the best Oil on the market. It stays up in the motor because it is charged the opposite of the metal. Use 15 to 20k filter for synthetic if Oil gets dirty sooner change the oil again. But synthetic oil Doesn't break down.
Had to get rid of a 2002 Volvo S60 finally, and needed a car to get to work and ended up finding a 2010 Toyota Corolla. 95,000 in good shape. Had it 3 years, I put tires on it and just changed the oil, surprisingly quiet for a little economy car and 36 miles per gallon. ... Pennzoil 0w20 full synthetic. I would only go up to 5w20...the small channels in the block can't circulate thicker oils fast enough and it's worst at start up when cold
I think you’re going to do well with that Corolla. I see those things with 100’s of 1000’s of miles on them, going strong. And I get what you’re saying with the 0w20/5w20...but just remember, oil is pumped, it’s not all about flow, it’s pumped under pressure and at operating temp there isn’t a big difference in viscosity at temp between a 5w20 and a 5w30. And in some countries the same engine will be spec’d for “thicker” weight oil. But I agree, the cold startups will benefit from a lighter weight oil. But I’m sure the 0w20/5w20 does great for you at all temps. I just went up in viscosity in mine (from 0W20 to 5W30) in my Toyota Avalon, but I know that the engine historically has been spec’d from anywhere between 0W20, all the way up to some heavier weights. So far so good.
10k miles is fine w/good syn. oil & a good functioning engine(no other issues), had plenty of cars(over 200k) with no oil burning, compression issues or anything else oil related. "Just make sure to always check oil levels, that's key👌"... You're wasting money & resources otherwise. People telling you 3k miles? They've been watching too many commercials or simply wanna hold on to your dollar bills😄. Anyways this guy seems spot on👍
I’ve tried a few 10,000 mile oil changes on my Avalon. Like you said, use good oil, and make sure you have an engine that can handle an extended drain. Know your car.
The 2GR-FE is bulletproof and you can put 20w50 in it and it’ll still run. One thing to watch for that engine is the oil cooler line. It’s made out of rubber and eventually will break. Toyota has an updated part that is made out of metal.
Depends on the time period as well. I have seen with my own eyes a 2gr completely filthy inside with only 75,000miles. Oil changes every 7,000 miles. Serviced at Lexus dealership but only once a year. Unless Lexus were faking the service and only put notes without actual oil changes. I still don't know what to think of it.
Yeah I agree. Anytime an engine just sits, and the oil just sits, that’s when you get that coagulation going on in the pan. I’m talking sitting for a long time, like months on end. I honestly think NOT driving a car is the worst thing you can do.
I just bought a two year old Highlander Hybrid with 50,000 miles. The owner was faithful with the recommended 10,000 mile oil changes. But that is ending with me. 5000 mile oil changes from here on out no matter what Toyota says. I hope its not too late.
I buy Pennzoil and Fram at the home depot and pick what ever in stock. My 2004 Sienna specifies 5W-30. If no stock, I will take 5W-40 or even 10W-40. No problem. I do oil change twice a year, in March and in September. I check oil level every month and add oil if necessary. It's now at 282k.
With me Walmart is right next door to our Home Depot, and Walmart has the Pennzoil for $6-$7 bucks less per 5 quart jug, and more filter options. But I realize that’s not the case for everyone.
@@doublebase6509 I paid like $22 on Pennzoil and $4.50 for Fram filter at the home depot. Walmart is 30 minute drive. I bought Super tech oil and filter before for about $15 plus tax but they have raised the prices in the last few years so it's not worth going there.
I like the question " what's the best oil?" the best oil is clean oil...period ! So, there you go.
Not even that, engine oil in a diesel is black in 50 miles !
Petrol engines, a different thing altogether.
I'm a 3000ish type guy with a older car. And I'm staying that way.
I change mine every 5k miles with full synthetic and a oem honda filter. Bought my rsx at 198k and now I’m 283k running smooth. I think I lucked out that the previous owner did a good job with it too.
This is the way. I got a Toyota and do the same thing. Thankfully Toyota oil filters are dirt cheap. Aftermarket filters work but they are significantly smaller for some odd reason.
I agree unless its near exclusive highway mileage because thats a different ball game and you can run longer intervals with no issues.
Good video. Oil changes are a lot cheaper than parts changes. The OEM maintenance schedules are based on "normal" driving conditions. Unfortunately, most people's driving conditions fall under "severe" driving conditions which have shorter maintenance intervals.
Agree. Normal driving conditions is a poorly understood concept (usually the minimum requirements for engine warranty repairs) and also more designed to comply with EPA extended maintenance mandates than engine longevity. Just assume the severe driving oil change schedule means normal driving conditions; IOW minimum 6 months or 5000 miles. And if you actually have severe driving conditions such as towing, extended stop and go driving/ extended idling, or numerous short trips under 20 minutes where your vehicle rarely reaches operating temperature or only does so for a short period of time (exasperates oil dilution especially with GDI engines), drop it down to 3000 mile intervals.
@@TheOnespeedbiker speaking of severe driving, I've seen idiots flooring their cars when backing up in parking lots. Not only it is dangerous, but they are also ruining their cars. Can you imaging reving an engine to 5000 rpm when it's cold?
@@sovietrepublic38 One thing many don't consider is the opposite, that being rarely driving with your engine over 3000 RPM. One of the main reasons for 7-10 speed transmissions is super overdrive for better MPG. My 2021 Jeep Cherokee with a Pentastar engine is only turning about 2000 RPM at 70 MPH, meaning the engine is rarely spinning fast enough to burn off carbon deposits.
@@TheOnespeedbiker yes, you do need to rev the engine over 3000 rpm sometimes. I put in lower gear on highway for few mins once in a while to burn carbon, but definitely don't want to do this when the car is cold.
@@sovietrepublic38 LOL no, not when cold. Interestingly with the Audi A3 with the 2.0 TFSI, when driving the engine at just over 3000 RPM raises the temperature and puts the engine into a “cleaning mode” where it runs leaner and hotter clearing out a lot of the carbon build up around the intake valves (a chronic problem with all the GDI engines). I don't know how good it works but Audi recommends you do this once a week for 15 minutes.
This is the best video on RUclips that talks about all major topics regarding oil and maintenance intervals. All info is here
Biggest issue I see with extended oil change intervals is that most people don’t check their oil level and many new and newer cars/trucks burn oil. So your running your car on low oil and that’s what leads to the most failures
I think you have a great point!
Like me I always refill my oil, make sure am good to drive, this man right ...
Correct!
Spot on 👌
If the issue is low oil level surely the solution is check oil level with appropriate frequency rather than constantly change oil?
Thank you for the video - it was very informative. I recently bought a Toyota Venza and am changing the oil every 5,000 miles.
Daves2520, I also just bought a Venza (2015) and plan on changing the oil every 5000 miles. I could probably go further than that as I drive majority highway miles, but I’d like to see how long this thing can last! 😃👍🏼
Excellent video, very informative, thank you!
Here up north Canada we follow the severe conditions maintenance recommended by the manufacturer. I have Mazda 2010 2.3l with 150k miles no oil consumption and the engine is clean. My 2018 ford escape ecoboost titanium every 3000 miles. Those ecoboost are very tough on oil you can see the difference between the two engines how black the oil is with the Ford. Great job!!
Agreed! I have the same engine. I change every 5000 miles with full synthetic. Sometimes I do it a little sooner. I do a drain and fill to the trans every 10,000 miles. 4-1/4 quarts and it takes 10 minutes. Castrol Transmax full synthetic Ford approved LV. I don’t like the Motorcraft LV, to many failed transmissions with that
Stick to 5k miles oil change. No exceptions. You pay thousands of dollars for your car. That's your hard earned money.
While I agree with you, there are people that do 10,000 mile intervals and get these engines to 200k-300k mikes without issue. They’re using the right oil, they have the right engine for it, they keep the oil level full, and they have an easy commute. But yet I agree with you.
@@doublebase6509I have a 2016 Honda Civic 2.0L i4 (non-turbo). I drive primarily hwy miles so I do OCI’s of 6K-7K miles. Hondas need to have their valves adjusted periodically. When we took the valve cover off at 150K, the valve train was silvery, clean, no varnish, deposits, or sludge at all. Quality oils, filters, and regular maintenance (also not dogging the car to death) can lead to longevity. I’m hoping to get at least 300K miles on it before I retire. 😊
Yeah i stick to 5k miles. 4k when do a lot of city driving.
@@doublebase6509What do you mean keep oil level full?
I agree I change the oil in my 2015 nissan rogue every 5000 miles and I change the oil in my 1995 f150 every 3000 miles and it has 332,900 miles on it
4 to 5K intervals for me on oil changes, never more than 5000, my Tacoma has 267k on it & still feels like new to me performance wise.
On my pilot the same interval I use penzoil & mobile 1 with oem filters.
Nice job explaining! Thanks!
You know what I should have done? Actually shot the video near a car. Haha. I’m new to this.
Finally! A REAL explanation to why engines begine consuming oil. I always say to use the best, longest life oil and filter I can reasonably purchase, and then change it on time. I use a lot of 20,000 mile rated oils, but then change it at half that mileage or no longer than 6 months or one year even if lots of highway miles and limited short trips. For engines that are consuming oil already and need rings and ring grooves cleaned safely, use HPL engine cleaner for a few oil changes with a high mileage synthetic, or use Valvoline's Restore and Protect oil for a few oil changes. Both of these will clean your engine safely over time and bring back a newer state to your piston ring grooves and free yp those rings
You mentioning HPL means we travel in the same oil/automotive circles, and those are good informative circles to be in. I’d like to try HPL for a run but for my driving conditions it’s probably not worth the added cost. Restore and Protect sounds interesting…I’ve seen the videos and claims. I’m always doubtful with engine cleaning claims but I’d certainly try both if I needed to. Thanks for the comment!
Interesting to learn about pistons and timing belts. Funny, I never thought about the belt being lubricated by oil and that is another reason to keep the oil clean. Thank you.
Thank you. Just to be clear, a timing belt engine does not submerge the timing belt in oil, it’s sealed away from the oil. The crank and cam sprockets have seals around them (cam and crank seals) that prevent the oil from ever touching that belt. Then the belt is covered externally by a plastic timing cover. Oil would ruin a timing belt pretty quickly. The timing chain engines are different, the chains are submerged in that oil, and the oil is contained in the engine by a metal/aluminum timing cover. And these new timing chains are HUGE compared to old style short chains of the 80’s. They’re big, complex, and they need clean oil to keep the pins and rollers from gathering soot, which stretches the chains just enough to cause problems (noise, timing issues, misfires).
@@doublebase6509 I had meant to write timing chain, sorry that I stated belt. I did not know the new chains are so complex now. I appreciate the detail that you go into a subject. I am subscribed!
@@doublebase6509 Ford Ecoboost engine has a wet belt! Garbage idea.
Great explaination! Very informative
2002 Mazda Protege 5, 2.0 engine - I change oil every 5k miles Full Synthetic 10W30 with Lucas Oil Stabilizer added - now with 170K miles on ODO, no issues, no loss of power. no overheating. 🤞 recently did valve cover gasket replacement and the engine inside looked like a new! Keeps going 👍
I recently got a 22' WRX, the maintenance manual calls for 6k oil change intervals and I will be doing 3k based on this video and other people's experiences I've read online.
Great video! I live in a very temperate area in Texas. Summer heat goes up to 110’ and winter down to 25 degrees. My daily ride of 13 years has been to always change the oil right around 3k for the first 5-6 years of ownership but later I got lazy and started to do oil changes every 5k. My 2012 Honda Goldwing has 145k with old change every 5k with regular nonsynthetic Honda oil from Amazon for $30 and call it a day! I have never bought expensive oil in my life. Never used any expensive oil and used mostly nonsynthetic stuff and have no issues.
I just started changing mine every 2,000 with the cheapest synthetic that’s dexos 2 approved ORRR 90 days. I never knew the base oil begins to oxidize so quickly…good info
That is a good move. With a 2000-mile oil change interval, you do not need to use any kind of special filter either. Low-end and no-name filters are made to go 5000 miles, but not more. I got a one-owner 2001 Camry Le four with 143K on it back in early 2021. Some aspects of the maintenance had been ignored but the owner had been meticulous about oil changes over the entire life of the car. I have been keeping a 2800-mile oil change interval based on all in-town driving. 30,000 miles later, the engine is still as tight as new. I use whatever oil is the cheapest and a Supertech filter. All dino oil is semisynthetic now. Originally, my oil change interval was 2500 miles with conventional oil.
Such a waste of oil and money.
These pistons look like they came out of my daughters' car. she changed the oil every 10K miles. The engine was basically junk at 175K. If you want the engine to last twice as long change the oil twice as often. It's just common sense.
Most people won't keep a car past 100K. Good ol' American dream keeping people in debt with newest model cars.
I’ll tell you what, this guy ^^^^ is right. A lot of people won’t even keep these cars past 100,000 miles anymore - then it’s on to the next payment.
I change my oil at 3k or a little later if unable to
@gardenstaterx8661 The oil is still protecting bearing surfaces but its carbon ring buildup that does the long term damage. I change mine when the oil turns black.
@@int53185 I do disagree with your opening statement. I believe in oil analysis. There are a thousand scenarios and criteria for differences in necessitating an oil change. Oil analysis is key.
5K miles or every 6 months, which ever comes first is a good rule to go by. What I have done for a long time and it seems to fair well. I do use a full synthetic oil.
I've a 2011 Toyota Camry LE, 59,000 miles. I've owned it for the past 15,000 miles. I do an oil+filter change every 5K, religiously. I've also done a drain/refill on the power steering (Mercon V) and the coolant system (Toyota spec.). I will also drain/refill the tranny oil (Dex VI) tomorrow. Car runs like a champ. I plan on keeping it forever.
Great video. Thank you
RS. Canada
I have a 13 highlander which i bought new with the same engine as your camry and gets 5k mile oil changes with 0w-20 oil. It has 135k miles and still drives like new. All maintenance done by me.
I purchased my first car about 25 years ago and at that time the recommended oil change frequency was 3000 miles which I followed religiously and that car lasted me 12 years with little to no problems. Since then I’ve noticed manufacturers keep extending the interval from 3k to 5k to now 7k. However I always still change my oil about 4-5k miles based on my experience with my first car.
25 years ago, and fast forward today the lubricants we use in our vehicle are so much better in advanced
@@lanceshier741True, and the reason engines last so much longer on average today. But regardless of the quality of the oil, I believe contaminants are the issue. Cleaner oil = longevity. I vote for more frequent oil changes than manufacturers recommendations. Cheap insurance. Also good for resale, more frequent oil changes is an indicator of an owner that cares. Will impress a future buyer.
A higher efficiency oil filter may however lead to more oil bypassing the filter due to higher resistance to oil flow.
@@Frank-nh9fe That is true, especially when the engine is cold and the oil is thick. I think that's why many OEM filters are so inefficient at filtering- the engineers prioritized minimal flow restriction and minimal bypass over filtering particles that are too small to do significant damage anyways. One sufficiently large chunk that gets through while the filter is in bypass can do a LOT more damage than many tiny particles ever could.
Only 12 years despite all your efforts?
Running a 2015 BMW X535i xdrive, oil change with Castrol Full Syn Euro spec every 5k miles on the dot. Got 200k miles last month and still running like a champ. Lots of oil leaks due to embrittled gaskets and plastic parts, etc. But I do take care of those upon first sight. So far so good. Tuned it to run 400hp and 435tq at the moment, it's strong.
I love high mileage stories, especially with BMW’s!
I have a 200k mile x5. All bmw's are gasket leaking nightmares.
Concise explanation of this contentious matter, this was very good. Funny how we tend to take notice of the engine manufacturer regarding oil grade when at the same time they are pulling our chain on intervals. We know the OEM engineers are overruled for commercial reasons. Kind of makes me sceptical of everything the manufacturer tells us. I also note you were not anti non-OEM filters. I'm wary of aftermarket filter by-pass valve pressure calibration and if anti-drain valves are fitted (especially on high engine filter locations. Thanks again for the great consumer guidance, very well put.
Well said, and thanks. Regarding the filters, you bring up a good point. I know there are some engines that are sensitive to bypass pressures if they are off just a little bit. I’ve never had a problem, although I certainly have used my fair share of OEM filter. I’m really liking the Fram Ultra cartridge filters for the Toyota, but I’ve used OEM more often...they’re cheaper and rated for 10,000 miles. Mobil 1 makes a decent filter, Amsoil too, but they’re expensive at $20 plus a filter. And you’re right, OEM engineers are overruled for commercial reasons, and regional warranty campaigns. An oil change interval or viscosity is not always the same depending on where you are in the world.
Cheaper to buy OEM Toyota oil filters imo. Buy Toyota for quality so stick with quality.
I do 4000 miles full synthetic oil changes and have 2 Mazda 6's one is 16 years old and the other is 9 years old both running real good!!!!
I’ll tell yeah, I think Mazda is a very underrated brand!
Amazing video
Thank you 🙏
I stick to 3k mile change religiously. I intend to keep my car. 130k miles currently. Original owner.
Changing oil that frequently seems a bit excessive.... I'm certain there is a point of diminishing returns... I hope your engine lasts you a long long time.
What kind of car do you drive and where do you live?
I'm in Alberta, Canada and Toyota recommends changing the oil every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms) or every 6 months - whichever comes first.
I change my oil every 4 months because of the extreme cold and because I predominantly do city driving (City 70% / Highway 30%).
Great and so so true, Like some people certain cars, makes and models are just designed to fail. It doesn't matter how well you maintain them
On the Honda Accord forums there’s a guy who went a million miles in his Accord (original engine), he did 15,000 mile oil changes the entire way. Older Accord with the tuned port injected, no turbo. Another guy was trying to do the same in a newer generation Accord, think he made it half the distance before his newer engine/direct injected motor had to be replaced. You’re 100% right, it’s the engine design and commute (mostly).
My 2008 mazda 6 3.0 gets high end synthetic every 7500k as per trh manufacturer and it has 240k and runs like a top. But my 2018 mazda 3 2.5l being direct injection gets changes at 5k as per manufacturer and at 64k it uses no oil and has minimal carbon (so far). All my cars get lots of highway driving and the occasional 'italian tuneup'. Havibg said all that, i agree with you about those 10k + changes. No oil should stay in the engine that long.
In that Toyota Engine...I would recommend sticking to the 0W-20 and 5,000 mile oil intervals. I have a Camry with the 2.5L engine that takes 0W-20 with almost 250,000 miles. No oil burning issues at oil. Engines are way more expensive than oil changes. I change mine every 5,000 miles with a good full synthetic oil and the Toyota TRD Oil filter. No problems.
What oil exactly have you used throughout the life of your car? 250K and no oil consumption is pretty rare these days.
@@nicholaspetre1 I've always use Amsoil OE Motor Oil. Every now and then I will use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
@@BOSS-xy8op Ok, so it was AMSoil and Pennz Ultra occasionally. Not SuperTech, no? Like many other say on the Internet that SuperTech is as good as other more expensive oil. Gotcha. You used excellent and quite expensive oil and no wonder you engine did good, it had to truly perform well indeed. Thank you for sharing.
@@nicholaspetre1 SuperTech makes a great oil, so does Kirkland Motor Oil from Costco. But as for me, I've been using Amsoil for over 18 years and they haven't failed me yet. The Amsoil OE is not too far off in price compared to other oils. But I do believe in frequent oil changes is the key, rather if you are using Amsoil or any other decent full synthetic, you'll be alright.
@@BOSS-xy8op Gotcha. Thank you for the insight. Truly support your point of view.
Bought a new 2002 E450 6.8 V10 Triton. Went 595,000 before engine gave out. Mobil 1 Full Syn 5w30 10,000 mile intervals.
I’m running Mobil1 5W30 in my car right now. And I’m doing a 10,000 mile interval. I plan on doing a 10,000 experiment video - ive done one analysis, came out great...no oil consumption, nothing. This is my 3rd (or 4th) 10,000 mile interval. But this engine is capable of handling it (2GRFE), I wouldn’t do it on every engine, especially direct injection turbos, with variable valve timing, etc.
@@doublebase6509 Sounds good. If you do a lot of highway driving like I did, you should get 600,000 miles or more. I am using 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra now.
My 2002 Lexus ES300 has 176k miles. 1MZ-FE engine is silky smooth. Bought it 2 years ago from original owner w 160k miles. Been using Pennzoil Full synthetic high mileage 5W-30 oil changes at 5k intervals. I can say it burned about 1 quart after my first oil change when I used the non high mileage full synthetic Pennzoil, but after switching to the high mileage oil it doesn’t burn one drop in 5000 miles
I change the oil and filter in my 1974 GMC C1500 and 1997 Pontiac Bonneville at 3,000 miles with conventional high mileage Pennzoil and quality filters like Wix. My 1998 Ford E150 4.6 gets a Motorcraft filter and full synthetic Pennzoil, it's currently at 212,000 miles.
96 Nissan Sentra. Mobil 1 with filter. 15,000 usually highway mile drain intervals. Oil analysis said do another 15,000 before next change. I got rid of that car at 285,000. It still ran beautifully.
Did you use the regular Mobil1 or the Mobil1 EP? I love hearing how these long intervals do for people that actually took the car to high mileage. I wouldn’t try something like that on a modern car though, not with direct injection, turbos, timing chains. I Imagine that your Nissan engine was timing belt, easy on oil, reliable, etc.
I’ve done a few 10,000 mile intervals on my Toyota. Great oil analysis with it...came back looking like a 3,000 mile oil change, but I just don’t have the stomach to keep doing them. I think the sweet spot with this current car for me is probably going to end up being 6,500. I could push it further, I might, but I’m not sure I want to with this one. I plan on keeping it past 300k
@@doublebase6509 Great videos. I sense an accent from the northeast?! I’m from California, we say DUDE and AWESOME and EXCELLENT! Lol
I’m all honesty. On my Sentra, I used strictly Mobil 1 from Walmart. I used Mobil 1 oil filters. I kid you not, Blackstone said “try another 15,000 miles.” Yes, it was predominately highway miles, but how cool is that?!
You go to your doctor for bloodwork. I like to know my cholesterol, vitamin D, testosterone levels. If my doctor says all is good, I won’t change anything. Just like my oil sample. Getting so tired of “you have to change every 5k.” Oil analysis is blood work.
And Walmart? I’m on an Acura now. Super Tech 5 qt synthetic is $20! If Blackstone says 10k miles, I’ll go 10k miles! Cheers! Happy subscriber.
I have 2-1971 Datsun 521 trucks having one for 45 yrs while the other for 27yrs. The owners manual states motor oil change interval at 2000 miles. I generally change at 800-1200 miles where the oil filter size is the same size used on all big block Fords. They run beautiful. The engines 1.6l sohc Datsun L16, were Trans national champions in the day 1971 and 1972 ran in the Datsun 510.
Me to ,...I have 6 trucks everyone gets changed @ 1000.0 miles
@@royderouin7510 You are one smart man!! Few have pil change intervals so low. The most I ever paid for a motor vehicle is $1500 for one truck while the other $800. They are primarily hobbies now since I get around on the classic old school mtn bicycles.
I remember in 1966 my dad's freind was a salesmen at a chevy dealership in Flint, MI. He showed us a 283 v8 that siezed. With valve covers off, I could not see valve springs or anything on cylinder head as it was encrusted with sludge. The salesman told us the owner had changed the oil in his one car then placed the used oil in the 283. In those days, oil was mainly straight weight non detergent. A premature death to say the least. This observation at 7 yrs old impacted my behavior for the rest of my life. I'm 64!!!
I got a 2017 Impala 2 years ago with 34k miles. It currently has 56k miles. I do all the maintenance on it, oil changes every 3k miles. I always check it every 1k miles, and at 2k, it is already dirty. I use a Wix XP filter and Pennzoil Platinum. Still runs smooth. These new engines just run hotter and are dirtier, which for city driving (stop and go), do oil changes more often.
Wix brand had never failed me.
Oil isn’t always dirty when it gets darker - it’s mostly heat related
Why not use full synthetic if you really care about the car?
Totally agree
@@billknox4121exactly!
10,000km (6000m) full synthetic 5/30 + filter every 2nd change seems to work for my vehicles - but the climate is a lot less severe here in NZ than the US i would think.
As my turbo ages, I went from a 5K interval as the owner's manual states to 4K. It uses a bit of oil, so I check it frequently. The other non turbo car, 5K to 6K. I put Pennz UP in or the turbo and Mobil One for the other car. OEM filters I also buy in bulk. It gets my oil change total cost down to around $32 bucks. Not bad. The Pennz UP, I buy in bulk when it goes on sale, I have five jugs at present at a blended cost of just over $26 bucks each.
Smart man! Saving some money on those oil changes, using quality oil and filters.
Its all down to your driving requirements. Constant cold start and short journeys add gas to your oil and so dilute it. Generally speaking, a engine needs to get rid of gas from the oil, that means long journeys. Cold engines also stress your oil and dont become hot till about 8miles. If you do lots of short journeys then your oil should be changed at half the recommended, if not more. Use your dipstick to give you a hint, if the oil is dark -change it. DONT GO BY RECOMMENDED MILES, GO BY THE WAY THE CAR IS USED.
RECOMMENDED MILES ASSUME LOTS OF LONG JOURNEYS OFTEN. Oil is expensive, but parts and labour far more.
oil gets dark after the first 100 miles .
@@attilakohbor3360and it's dark underneath
For the past 6 years ive been using mobil1 20k mile oil on my vehiles. I change it once a year reguardless of mileage. Typically i run 15k to 20k miles a year in florida. No issues on my end.(knocking on wood)
I mean, I wouldn’t go 20,000 miles on an oil change, but if it’s working for you? Nice. And you’ve probably done your research. I’ve used the Mobil1 extended performed several times, seem to do a good job. I have run it 10,000 miles before with oil analysis that came back great. But I just don’t have the stomach for it. Although I may perform an experiment to see if I can do 10,000 mile intervals, and still get to 300,000 miles without issue.
So nice to see that in America the oil change is mostly done about 5000 miles. Here in Europe common is between 20.000 km - 30.000 km or 12.000 miles - 18.000 miles. what i see for years as a car mechanic that this is to long with al kinds of issues when cars get older. I recommend the costumer to do a oilchange within 10.000 km or 6000 miles. Nowadays with the small down grade engines here. 3 cilinder turbocharged, 900cc and more are giving issues in the long term.
Me & my wife bought our 1st brand new car in 2021, live in North East, 1st 3 oil changes I changed it at 2000 miles, now between 3000-3500, Honda filter, Mobil 1
i probably wouldn't use Mobil 1 considering what they do to S2000 engines. If you gonna go off the shelf, use Pennzoil ultra. I would recommend amsoil.
I have a direct-injected Turbo engine... I always change @ 5K miles with Motul 8100 X-Clean... I only use OE or Mann filters and I have a catch can. I have zero issues with oil consumption.
No matter what the computer tells about service intervals
I do my oil changes every 5.000 miles and cvt transmission every 30.000
2015 accord now with 165.000 miles runs perfect
And still counting no thinking to get a new car any time soon
5k or 6 months is basically the perfect number. If you’re direct injected and boosted I’d even lower that to 3500-4k miles
Twice a year Once when it starts to get cold and once when it starts to get warm Easy to remember
I would like to see someone do a study where they buy a new car or truck and never change the oil and see how long it will last. I suspect longer than a lot of people think.
True story, I was in a class where the instructor worked for Toyota, Mobil1 was working with Toyota at the time to formulate their oil for their 10,000 mile intervals. A lot of concern from the facility reps over this, as expected - Mobil1 assured them that their oil could go a lot further than 10,000 miles. Not sure how much longer but a lot further. Me? I’ve always been a 5,000 mile guy, but in the right engine/right commute/right oil, I think 10,000 is very doable.
My 03 CRV was checked by Honda at 211k miles and the technician said that the engine was spotless...It now has 309k miles and still immaculate inside and runs like a Top
I forgot to say that I change the Mobil 1 every 5k miles along with the Mobil 1 oil filter
Those engines were great! I have a 2008 with 180,000 on it, haven’t done a single out of pocket repair on it yet. 5,000 mile intervals. I also do the coolant and tranny every other year. I do the rear diff as well
@@doublebase6509 No maintance repairs like muffler?, bushings ect?
19,000 miles oil change. That is the standard here in the Netherlands!! Every company car is maintained at 19 or 20,000 miles! I change it myself every 9,000 and everyone calls me a freak and a moron!
19,000 miles?? I’m ok with extending an oil change a bit on a well built car, known for being easy on oil, but I’m never going 19,000 miles!
Manufactures recommend fluid change intervals are so your vehicle dies outside of warranty. Especially transmission fluid intervals. It should be changed every 30,000 miles or less. I do a trans drain and fill every 10,000 miles and it takes 10 minutes
I bought my Ford Fiesta 1.25 manual brand new. Changed oil according to manufacturers recommendations every 20kkm. In 6 years made 160kkm (warranty 100kkm) and guess what? Nothing happened. Because frequent oil change is no more than a kind of religion fed by garages who are interested in the frequent oil changes. It's hard to step out and see that the manufacturer knows better because he is interested in your satisfaction with his car.
Yes, if you pray, it won't harm you, you might even think that it helps, but if you don't pray it makes a little difference.
Guys, I think the issue is that people are not following the owners manual.
in my country KSA I have Camry 2015 the manual requires me to change the oil every 3100miles under severe conditions.
the reasons I think are:
- extreme hot weather
- We can use mineral oil; anything from 0w20 to 20w50
Informative. My only advice is the PCV valve if they have it needs to be changed on regular schedule to avoid oil burning also. I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 453,000 miles. Original drivetrain. I monitor all my fluids. Use Castrol full synthetic oil and transmission fluid. Don''t cheap out on oil and air filters. Minimal oil useage. 5,000 mile oil changes until 350,00 miles. Then started every 3000-3500 miles now.
Yeah good point, the PCV valve will cause oil burning. I have run into instances where oil will track into the intake and it wasn’t because of the PCV valve - what happens is when these rings get worn too much, the blow by enters the crankcase and pushes the oil up through the PCV system and into the intake manifold. There’s nothing you can do at that point. But the Sienna van is LEGENDARY for reliability and longevity. I’m hoping to get my Avalon to 500,000 miles some day.
84 VW rabbit convertible 1.8 8V 450,000 miles original motor manual was replaced.
89 VW Golf GT 1.8 8V 289,000 miles. Original motor manual was replaced.
98 VW Jetta 2.0 8V 327,000 miles first motor hydrolock bent rod. Used motor didn’t last very long after that. Original manual.
01 VW Jetta 2.0 8V 300,000 miles. Original motor and manual. Car is still seen in my town 6 years later driving. Still in contact with the owner.
2005 Kia spectra. 300,000 miles. Original motor and manual. Sold the car and still running.
Currently 06 Rabbit 2.5 5cyl. 195,000. Manual of course.
All on 10k oil change intervals. Use good oil and filters.
These were all non turbo and no direct injection. If they were I would cut the interval in half.
Yeah I’m kind of torn on the longer drain intervals even on port injected engines, but I’m currently trying them (on an engine that historically is easy on oil). But there is evidence that the longer intervals are ok on some engines/some commutes/some driving conditions. A guy made it 1,000,000 miles in his Honda Accord doing 15,000 mile intervals using off the shelf synthetics. Too me that’s impressive. He also was a courier doing a lot of highway driving in the Texas heat. I think that helps. Plus his engine was a port injected V6.
There is a cool and easy tick to improve the oil flow in the out filter.
220,000 miles on my 2010 Corolla. Oil change every 3k. 3,6,9,12,15….. easy to remember. Once I hit 100k, every 2k. My engines never failed. Water pump, yep. Brake pads, yep, rust yes. But never the engine. I’ll skip the filter once in the snow or cold if I have to. Great video
Is there a reason why you skip the filter ?
@@davidsoto7114 I change the filter every time anyway. Sometimes I’ll skip it ONCE if the snow and cold are a bitch here in the northeast USA. THATS ABOUT ONCE A YEAR. Lol
@@roogermoore6135 Changing oil in cold sucks. I'm lucky I don't drive 3k miles in 6 months. So it's just 2 oil changes a year. One right before it gets cold and and spring time.
10k mile internals were driven by the need to have low maintenance costs for the JD Power rankings. Most warranties end at 75 to 100k and the data says they'll last that long on a 10k interval. The car mfg is thinking of themselves and not you.
My Element has 304k on 5k oil changes and 45k atf changes. Original engine and trans.
I agree, low maintenance costs are a huge contributing factor.
Nice job👍👍👍💯
My rule; 5k miles or 6 months full synthetic 0w-20 on all my Toyotas and Lexus. Whichever comes first. Never fails. Thanks for the video.
You could easily double that no problem w/those engines, oil levels are key.
@@dmironyuk true buddy. But I rather have that peace of mind of just getting on my vehicles and hit the highway, trails have a few lagers, Pilsners or bourbon and chill with a box of cigars. Cheers brother.
Every 5000 with my Lexus ES350. And always full synthetic; why consider anything else.😊😊
@@alanhumphrey4198 right on spot.
5000 KM or 3000 miles is the norm here in Colombia, no matter what oil or vehicle you use (obviously exceptions are heavy vehicles)
Either my bikes or cars, my rule is....FOLLOW the Service manual. You will not have any issues. They even tell you when to change it in a harsh/dusty environment. Its a no brainer. I never had to open an engine ever!!!! My Cherokee clocks my oil change from 100% - 0%. Jeep says, synthetic. I change mine at 5% oil life left and its around 9K. My Goldwing says every 8K or one year. I change it at 6K cause I like higher HWY speeds. Follow that and you are good to go.
The giant wrench is what makes a better mechanic.
I change my oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic. I do a drain and fill to my transmission (4-1/4 quarts) every 10,000 with Castrol Transmax full synthetic. Cheap and easy, both take 10 minutes.
I've been religiously following the 5k, full synthetic regimen with all my cars for years. And I've owned 3 Toyotas in the last 15 years and 2 of 3 are running like a clock with over 200k, and the other, a 98 Corolla, has about 175k and running fine.
Manufacturer recommends... Ya, the manufacturer wants you to buy another car.
Thanks a lot 👍
3500 miles. Liqui Moly Leichttlauf. Audi 3.0t pushing about 480 hp instead of 330. Short trips and drag strips.
Toyota had a problem with valve stem seals on the four cylinder engines. It would cause smoke at start up but never bothered anything else. Plugs didn't fowl. Just change your oil every 5,000 miles or at least two times a year. Oil is cheap rebuilding an engine is not.
Great videos. Did you say WMT is the armpit of hell?! Lol. Hey, WMT is a destination.
Think about it, over 100,000 items, clean restrooms, restaurant, deli, auto center, good service. It’s a destination IMHO.
Yeah, I get what you’re saying. But ever since they’ve gone to mostly self checkout...I’ve just, I don’t know. I can’t stand it anymore. And before that it was getting equally worse, they’d have 50 registers in the store, but only two people actually working them. Drove me nuts. I’d be standing in line for 20 minutes, person behind me trying to give me a carriage colonoscopy. I still shop there occasionally, I just can’t stand it though. They move everything every time I go there. I’m like, what are we doing? Is this some sort of Easter egg hunt? Like, yesterday you had the fertilizer over here, and today where is it? You don’t have anyone actually working a register anymore and yet you have people hiding and moving things every other day?. 😂😂. But I get it, can’t beat their prices, the “convenience” of just quickly going there and grabbing something off the shelf (rather than ordering it online through Amazon or something). But man, I’ve seen some things there. I’ve seen a guy walk around with no shirt on for over an hour. Platinum blond hair, probably 70 years old, wearing a pair of Wrangler jeans and nothing else. Totally hammered. Thought...they’ll get him out of here in ten minutes. Nope! An hour later he’s asking me where the coleslaw is, and it’s right in front of his face (that was probably my most memorable experience at a Walmart). The other watching a guy flip out in the electronics section...guy threw a cell phone case three aisles away, screaming, YOUR MOTHER!!!
2005 accord 432.000 miles Chicago stop n go and highway 10,000 mile changes Mobile 1 purolator filter not one problem now walmart oil 5/20 for the last 200,000 miles minimum it uses about 1/2 quart every 10,000
That’s some serious miles! I made to almost 300,000 in a 1999 Honda Accord before the thing just became unmanageable to drive everyday. But I loved that car.
Great video..
i do 10 000km (6250 miles) on fully synthetic and better then recommended (low ash and high interval oil) (i have seen the VW507.00 spec oil do fantastic even under abuse) i have seen a friend did not change his oil on his toyota 1.4L diesel and he did close to 60 000 miles on the oil (he topped up with the same high spec oil) and the engine serviced. when i took it out it cam eout just fine "hot" it was like tar when cold and took for ever to get in a empty jug. i open the filter an dit was just fine. no problem no real crap.
the modern direct injected petrol engines have BIG problems with micro soot getting in to the oil and eating up the timing chine.. replace oil often on direct injected engines whatever they say in the book!
I’ve been following the maintenance minder on my various Honda’s for the past 15 years or so. Due to vastly different driving cycles, oil changes have come up anywhere between 3,000 miles and 11,000 miles. I’ll stick with that since it seems to account for usage rather than miles.
You do not have to change synthetic oil once a year, when you drive less miles, or let the vehicle sit for a period. Synthetic oil never breaks down like conventional oils. Save your money doing 3k mileage oil changes. I grew up in dad's truck fleet garage, rebuilding my boat engines, and for 50 years, I DIY all my vehicle and boat repairs and rebuilds. The rare times I hired a mechanic, is only because I don't have the specialty tool or scan tool, and I tell them exactly what the problem is in advance. There are no tow trucks at sea!
@@keithhults8986 Synthetic oil absolutely has an expiration. It's even on the bottle itself. Shelf life is typically 5 years. And when it's in your engine that is significantly shorter. It's not a sealed system, and there are contaminants that get into your oil over time. The detergents can only do so much, so it's a good idea to change once a year even on low mileage cars.
i plan to do my oil change on my 8.1L pick up . I will use full synthetic oil. I don't plan to drive it more than 2500 miles until next october next year. Is it OK to do the oil change only when it reach 5 to 8 000 miles regardless how many years it will take to reach this mileage? Thanks!
yes change oil. If you have a kia hyundai 1.6, 2.0, 2.4 GDI you can try the KIA TSB for high oil consumption. I did as a last resort. using 1 quart+ per 1000 miles. After the TSB and an added oil flush seem to work. B12 chemtool - we used that to de carbon competitive firearms.
10,000 miles oil change is a joke. It’s only to save the stealership money. If you want to keep your car for a very long time do it at 5,000 miles. But that’s just me. You do what you want because you’re the owner.
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9L V6 4x4 that my grandma gave me. She bought it new back in 99 right out of the factory and always had the oil and filter changed every 2,000 miles. I change the oil every 3,000 and to this day at 24 years old, the truck still doesn’t burn oil at 187,000 miles
Damn good engine I had a 98 before I sold it it had 390,000 miles nothing but mobile 1 and there filter
Change my Oil on my 2018 accord T every 4 thousand miles for my peace of mind. I live in San Antonio Tx and it’s hot AF most times of the year and traffic driving definitely kills the oil especially when it’s 100 degrees. I also do Uber and Doordash . So oil changes are a must.
Regarding the oil viscosity change on the Toyota V6, I also question Toyota's advice as they likely didn't change the engine internals. I have a 2012 ES350 and the oil cap says 5w-30 but the dealer wants to put in 5w-20 since they don't bother stocking the 5w-30. I feel safer with the 5w-30 since I only drive it in the summer.
Yeah, if it’s saying 5w30 on the cap I’d definitely keep the 5W30 in it. Mine says 0W20 and I just bumped it up to a 5W30. I figure, it’s not that much different and this engine has been around a long time. Every search I’ve done there’s plenty of folks running the 5W30 without issue
@@doublebase6509 Say WHAT !??
You say to "do what it says on the Oil Cap" in regards to the 5-W-30 oil, but then you turn around and tell us that your Cap says 0-W-20 -- but you "bumped it up" to a 5-W-30 because "It's not much different".
You were right the 1st time -- Put the Oil in that the Manufacturers recommend for their Engine Oil Viscosity.
In areas with very warm climate once the engine reaches operating temp the 5w-30 will be better at protecting engine parts than the watery 0w-20, which might be a perfect choice for real winter conditions. The fuel economy will be lower with 5w-30 due to higher frictional losses - the number one reason companies switched to very light oils to follow the stinking CAFE regulations. 0w-30 might be good alternative, I use it instead of 5w-20.
@@pliedtka It's absolutely amazing -- the number of people that think that they know more about engine oils, their uses, and climatic requirements than the engineers that designed and built their engines.
Get a clue -- Use the Oil Viscosity that is recommended in your Owner's Manual or is indicated on your Oil Fill Cap.
I've lived in the desert for over 50 years -- 180,000 miles on the V-8 engine --
I run constant engine temps of 185-200 F.
Recommended Oil Viscosity is 5-W-30, Bosch Premium Oil Filter # 3410; FilterMag Magnet Kit. Oil & Filter changes at 5,000 Miles.
Rational adults know that those CAFE Regulations were NOT put there for ignorant malcontents to ignore. 😁
@@SlikLizrd The thinner oils, like 0w-16, exist only for mpg and CAFE, not because they are superior in terms of reduced wear. Yes, the engines can handle it, but they will show lower wear with a slightly thicker oil.
Agreed. The machines need clean oil running them. Its only an extra $250 over 300,000 miles to split your intervals in half. Every 5,000 miles is one simple way to avoid sludge, clogged oil return rings and intake carbon buildup
I have a 2016 Toyota Camry SE (4-Cyl) and started out changing the oil every 10,000 miles and they after 40,000 miles I saw a video here on RUclips that talked about 5,000 mile intervals were better! "Car Care Nut" showed engines that had issues from 10,000 mile oil changes, I drive 7,800 (city) miles a year, 11 miles one-way to work and I live in Western Pa.
I love the car care nut, he’s probably the most practical tech I’ve seen on RUclips. I love his videos, he gives some great information about working on Toyota’s. I used his bleed technique sequence video to help me bleed the cooling system on my own car. Useful stuff.
I watched that video too. We don’t know the true history of those car that got the bad rings. Did they use a cheap 5W-20 synthetic blend at jiffy lube, a non synthetic, or 0W-20 neglecting the car driving 20000 miles? Many people don’t check the dip stick. The oil could’ve been low most of the time. I have no issues driving driving with oil changes up to 10000 on my 2010 Camry LE 170000 miles. I use Mobil 1 on the Toyota vehicles in my house. May even switch them all over to Amsoil signature after I use up the Mobil 1. Im sure Castrol and Pennzoil are great oil too. I’m sure they all do fine. Much of the oil change debate is different car to car and if people don’t drive far enough to heat up the engine to operating temperature and drive it for a while. Many variables come into play.
@@NorthlanderMN yeah, you’re right. Another thing…the engine he references in his video has known issues of oil consumption - that person could have changed their oil every 5,000 miles and it may not have made any difference…the engine could still have failed.
All our large farm machinery engines have 200 hour oil and filter changes. Never had engine issues..... My car gets 5,000 km oil and filter changes cheaper than repairs 😊
Oil change intervals are not Woke. It's not all about the expressing your personal truth and your authentic self. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles and the engine will last a very long time with minimal wear. Also, check your oil level every week. If it's a little low top it off.
Not just piston rings ,front and rear main seal doesn't like contamination oils between them and crank shaft and it's not cheap to replace.
There's no carguy wants see his car with oils leaks doesn't matter he's wants to keep it for 50.000 miles or 500.000 miles .of course any engine will runs and survive with 10 or 15.000 miles oils change intervals but with others problems come with it. The more late on oil change the more problems it will get
Maple syrup! I'm a pleased Corolla owner and completely agree. My 2000 was the year for the piston issue you mention, but my interval of 5000 has helped I think (3 better I'm sure), I switched to synthetic, twice so far which they say 10k but I do 7500, but might stick to 5000. I might also try the high mileage flavor as it does seem to be burning some oil now (requiring a 1/4 qt between change or so), but I'm hoping it's just the synthetic leaking through some old seals. I had a MB and was told the expensive oil change was justified because you 'only have to do it every 10k miles'... I think that was the start of the 'interval inflation' you discuss. My Corolla is at 197k, I was going to go till 200 to change, but I think I'll do it sooner. Regarding going higher viscosity for Toyota, I heard that's a good way to clog your vvt valves.
This is an excellent explanation about lubrication and the sub standard parts inside today's engines. My 25yr old Sienna has 167k on a 3.0 non interference V6 and was losing, using 1qt of best filter vastly increases the engine life. Especially my rebuilt marine engines. I use Hastings, WIX, and NAPA Gold, are the best filters. FRAM, Carquest and PRONTO filters are next to useless.
People have suggested to me running that low SAPS oil in my gas engines. I might give that a try. It’s a little pricey, but I like to experiment. A friend of mine just became an Amsoil dealer, I was thinking about giving that a try as well.
Fun fact, I work at an independent NAPA chain, our Napa brand filters are actually manufactured by WIX. Also, if you're concerned about it, there are Platinum level filters that are better than gold, but are usually special order (next day or few days)
Change your oil according to your driving, short trips, highway.
Good video.
The best oil is new clean oil. Cheap oil often is way better than expensive oil not so often.
I do 5k on my non turbos and 3k on my turbo, I stay away from that high mileage mumbo jumbo and I never had a problem, I keep my cars for a minimum of 12 years.
helpful, for sure.
Castrol EDGE is the best Oil on the market. It stays up in the motor because it is charged the opposite of the metal. Use 15 to 20k filter for synthetic if Oil gets dirty sooner change the oil again. But synthetic oil Doesn't break down.
Had to get rid of a 2002 Volvo S60 finally, and needed a car to get to work and ended up finding a 2010 Toyota Corolla. 95,000 in good shape. Had it 3 years, I put tires on it and just changed the oil, surprisingly quiet for a little economy car and 36 miles per gallon. ... Pennzoil 0w20 full synthetic. I would only go up to 5w20...the small channels in the block can't circulate thicker oils fast enough and it's worst at start up when cold
I think you’re going to do well with that Corolla. I see those things with 100’s of 1000’s of miles on them, going strong. And I get what you’re saying with the 0w20/5w20...but just remember, oil is pumped, it’s not all about flow, it’s pumped under pressure and at operating temp there isn’t a big difference in viscosity at temp between a 5w20 and a 5w30. And in some countries the same engine will be spec’d for “thicker” weight oil. But I agree, the cold startups will benefit from a lighter weight oil. But I’m sure the 0w20/5w20 does great for you at all temps. I just went up in viscosity in mine (from 0W20 to 5W30) in my Toyota Avalon, but I know that the engine historically has been spec’d from anywhere between 0W20, all the way up to some heavier weights. So far so good.
10k miles is fine w/good syn. oil & a good functioning engine(no other issues), had plenty of cars(over 200k) with no oil burning, compression issues or anything else oil related. "Just make sure to always check oil levels, that's key👌"... You're wasting money & resources otherwise. People telling you 3k miles? They've been watching too many commercials or simply wanna hold on to your dollar bills😄. Anyways this guy seems spot on👍
I’ve tried a few 10,000 mile oil changes on my Avalon. Like you said, use good oil, and make sure you have an engine that can handle an extended drain. Know your car.
The 2GR-FE is bulletproof and you can put 20w50 in it and it’ll still run. One thing to watch for that engine is the oil cooler line. It’s made out of rubber and eventually will break. Toyota has an updated part that is made out of metal.
This is probably the best engine I’ve ever owned. Although I do own a Honda K24 engine, and that’s pretty reliable, although without much power.
@@doublebase6509that's funny. Because I have the same engines. Kluger (Highlander) with 2grfe and CR-V with K24. BOTH are good
2gr has issues too outside like oil cooler and vvti gears rattling on startup. We have two in our rav and my rav has 60k towing miles
Depends on the time period as well. I have seen with my own eyes a 2gr completely filthy inside with only 75,000miles. Oil changes every 7,000 miles. Serviced at Lexus dealership but only once a year. Unless Lexus were faking the service and only put notes without actual oil changes. I still don't know what to think of it.
Yeah I agree. Anytime an engine just sits, and the oil just sits, that’s when you get that coagulation going on in the pan. I’m talking sitting for a long time, like months on end. I honestly think NOT driving a car is the worst thing you can do.
I just bought a two year old Highlander Hybrid with 50,000 miles. The owner was faithful with the recommended 10,000 mile oil changes. But that is ending with me. 5000 mile oil changes from here on out no matter what Toyota says. I hope its not too late.
In Europe they recommend 30.000 km/1 year. Its insane. Then the engine will get damaged pretty quick for sure.
I buy Pennzoil and Fram at the home depot and pick what ever in stock. My 2004 Sienna specifies 5W-30. If no stock, I will take 5W-40 or even 10W-40. No problem. I do oil change twice a year, in March and in September. I check oil level every month and add oil if necessary. It's now at 282k.
With me Walmart is right next door to our Home Depot, and Walmart has the Pennzoil for $6-$7 bucks less per 5 quart jug, and more filter options. But I realize that’s not the case for everyone.
@@doublebase6509 I paid like $22 on Pennzoil and $4.50 for Fram filter at the home depot. Walmart is 30 minute drive. I bought Super tech oil and filter before for about $15 plus tax but they have raised the prices in the last few years so it's not worth going there.