The clunk is the brake pad. The ap racing caliper are designed for enduraence racing and the pads is free to move in the caliper, you need their spring kit to put pressure on the pad to minimize noise. But there will still be some chatter since they are for race tracks and not sema.
The power issue usually means you need to calibrate/register the battery with a scan tool. Bimmercode/bimerlink or Protool work well if you can't get a hold of ISTA. The radars do need to be up against the bumper, pointing in the right area, and able to penetrate the material. Edit: Saw Ian had Protool.
I've been noticing a few "normal everyday technician" problems you guys have been running into. I'm a foreman at a shop on Kauai and was lucky enough to come see your stuff at sema this year, but I wanted to say if you guys need tech support, I'd be happy to help with what I can. It would be easier if you can get ahold of a decent scan tool just so be able to get me the codes.
Tj the power supply code you are probably getting is more than likely caused by your modifications that require supply power I know it may sound crazy but it’s probably due to your quick jacks failing might have caused an electrical module to fail
These problems are not your run of the mill problems that a mom and pop shop usually encounter. These are specific BMW module interference issues with the modifications the vehicle has had. A “decent scan tool” won’t help you at all with this.
So the issue you guys could be having with those rear radars actually probably comes down to the paint thickness on the vehicle. If theres too thick of a layer of paint it will actually cause interference issues with the radars. Those ones specifically are for your blind spot monitoring system. Other than that, the way their mounted will cause that issue too if their not solidly mounted to the body or bumper.
Also be sure that you have them on the right side you cant swap them and check the mirror are well connected that can cause a code for the blindspot to, the same way you took the radars from the OEM bumper you have to put them back the same way in the new bumper
great work guys...i work in collision repair...Those "boxes" at the rear of the car probably need recalibrating if they are what i think they are.. super annoying
As someone who also works in that industry I laughed so hard when they said they wanted to make it streetable after taking every safety and other needed sensors for “Oem” cars to work right. Yeah goooood luck on that, easier to throw motec in it than figure this nightmare out lol
@johnathanromero3944 i dont know about the laws across the states, im in New Zealand so would be a mission here, but I'm sure these guys will do what it takes for us to see it on the street
The restraint system error that you have on your M4 right now is regarding with the hood restraint system if I'm correct because I just watched Mat Armstrong's full rebuild on his M5 and he also had the same error. Basically what that error is is that when you hit a pedestrian the hood will have a support for the pedestrian.
The noise upfront is 100% pad knock back in the front brakes Also with the power supply issue, bmws have an” SBK” which is a pyro device to sever the 12v power supply in a crash. If you deleted that the car will throw a battery code as well as a restraint code because it is pinned to the airbag module.
With the battery relocation are you using the factory ground wire? If not that’s likely your issue for the power management/airbag codes. The factory ground has a IBS(intelligent battery sensor) built in, that sensor is monitored on a CAN bus which can give you faults for different areas of the car that aren’t necessarily the problem.
As a guy who owned a BMW and had a tech that could hook up to the ecu and not only clear codes but tell the ECU to ignore the faulty code til a later date that the car would hypothetically never see to keep bmw failsafes from interfering or returning.
The power supply code can be a number of things but the first thing that came to my mind is the IBS module. If Ian can figure out if/why the IBS isn’t reading right then that could possibly fix the problem
I work for a company that make carbon fibre body kits for luxury cars. with our kits, to allow radars ect to work we have to make a panel in the bumper out of fibreglass to allow the radar to 'see' through the bumper
I am glad you are fixing that terrible exhaust. Like when you strait piped your BRZ, they sound absolutely terrible. And the headlight being the number one comment? Nah, it was the terrible wheel fitment. I get it, it is a race car kit on a street car and it can only go so low before you are literally dragging the car on the ground but that is why this will always not be a complete success of a build. Did you get the kit to fit? Sure. That actually isn't that hard with enough cutting and just planning it out. But does it actually look good? No. Not with the massive 2 bedroom apartment that separates the wheel from the fender.
Holy fuck, TJ has came along ways I remember when I first used to start watching dudes videos right before he bought his first car garage and had the 350Z always used to watch them right when he posted it to RUclips. I’ve been slacking for over five years I know you might not get to the comment, but keep it up man you came along ways. And for everybody else always follow your dreams and you succeed. KEEP MOVING FAWORD!!!! F^(king crazy
When you remove the back seat to get the factory rear suspension out, the restraint system (seatbelts) need to be reset. Most of this can be solved with a BMW optimized OBD2 scanner/app
The radar sensors on the side in the rear need the funnels that surrounded the modules on both sides. They will not read properly without them and will continue to set the check control message
I personally really like the fit and finish, even parts you done see you guys killed it, like the underside of the passenger side skirt, it looks fuckin mint
Those are your Blind spot monitors and they are very sensitive radars that require calibrations, if they are not in the original spots then it’ll be really hard to get them to calibrate
I know there are a few cars that will have issues like that if they’re equipped with auto start/stop because there’s a secondary battery. I’m not too familiar with the g82 but I’d check that if you have auto start/stop
Awesome video as always TJ Hunt and Crew. The BMW M4 GT3 is so sick and insane can't wait to see it ripping up the track and to see who wins the R34 GT-T.
The m4 definitely needs a carbon steering wheel with shift lights and a few extra carbon interior pieces and maybe a built motor after testing it with the stock G82 and the original M4 gt3 race car
IDK if this will work on the M4, when I lowered my Audi and was hearing noise similar to what you're describing. I cut the bump stops and haven't heard the noise since.
Those are your blind spot monitors, they need recalibrated if you turn on and off the vehicle once they are unplugged. If elitek is out there in cali I’d use them since they come to you. If not the BMW dealer should be able to calibrate them.
You are actually completely right about you radarsensor-theory, the same reason why BMW doesn't allow bumpers to be re-painted 2x or more! The Sensors just start reading crazy bs. At least thats what we are told here in good ol Germany. The Sensors need to be in their original Position.
Just my two cents here. For a GT3 car it looks great. But something is off. The BRG paint and the high end HRE wheels don't work with the body. Especially not with those wheel arches. Since it's supposed to be a GT3 car it would have been much better suited with a grimey racing livery and some patina'd worn out racing wheels. Still a badass build though, just giving my personal opinion. Feel free to flame me in the comments if you must.
Just saw the gt3 shirt on the website and had to order it with a purple keychain, so excited to open it when it arrives, sending some love from Australia!❤
A lot of these newer European cars need batteries to be reprogrammed if they got disconnected or died. My cousin had to take his vw to a shop to do it. Not sure if bmw does the same
I believe you with the clank noise thing lol was happening to my gti literally tightened all bolts on and around my suspension maybe a quarter turn And complete silence 🤷♂️😂
The thing about the newer BMW's is that they have 2 batteries. A normal battery and a lithium battery. Now usually the power issue can come down to 1 of 2 things. Either the regular battery was low at some point and the vehicle didnt receive correct power. If this happens it can be something as simple as an DME reset. If not, and the lithium battery was affected because the car was sitting without a charge, then it could be fixed with programming update, but I have seen it plenty of times that the Lithium battery needed to be replaced completely. Have also seen the code go away before if the battery was just low and not completely dead, by just driving/leaving the car running. BMW's are really weird with battery/power when its low/left without charge for an extended period of time.
bmw's can be scary. I had a clunking noise over bumps, thought it was shock mounts, shock, etc. turned out the diffuser bracket was broken and its made from hard plastic, that would knock against each other - repaired that and clunking noise is gone.
The lithium ion battery of the m4 have an extra plug on the side of the battery (very small) and you may also need to calibrate the battery. Maybe this will help
The clunk is the brake pad. The ap racing caliper are designed for enduraence racing and the pads is free to move in the caliper, you need their spring kit to put pressure on the pad to minimize noise. But there will still be some chatter since they are for race tracks and not sema.
The power issue usually means you need to calibrate/register the battery with a scan tool. Bimmercode/bimerlink or Protool work well if you can't get a hold of ISTA. The radars do need to be up against the bumper, pointing in the right area, and able to penetrate the material.
Edit: Saw Ian had Protool.
When troubleshooting your car is like troubleshooting a laptop. Not for me.
This guy knows what he talking about 👍🏻 hopefully tj sees this
I've been noticing a few "normal everyday technician" problems you guys have been running into. I'm a foreman at a shop on Kauai and was lucky enough to come see your stuff at sema this year, but I wanted to say if you guys need tech support, I'd be happy to help with what I can. It would be easier if you can get ahold of a decent scan tool just so be able to get me the codes.
Also the modules in rear aka radar need to be on the outmost body panel, material of panels can matter but it should be fine
Tj the power supply code you are probably getting is more than likely caused by your modifications that require supply power I know it may sound crazy but it’s probably due to your quick jacks failing might have caused an electrical module to fail
@@richgwozdz8580🤷♂️🤷♀️🤦♀️🤦♂️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏾♀️
These problems are not your run of the mill problems that a mom and pop shop usually encounter. These are specific BMW module interference issues with the modifications the vehicle has had. A “decent scan tool” won’t help you at all with this.
@@hyperspeedcollective600he said it’s a normal everyday problem type of stuff bro
So the issue you guys could be having with those rear radars actually probably comes down to the paint thickness on the vehicle. If theres too thick of a layer of paint it will actually cause interference issues with the radars. Those ones specifically are for your blind spot monitoring system. Other than that, the way their mounted will cause that issue too if their not solidly mounted to the body or bumper.
Also be sure that you have them on the right side you cant swap them and check the mirror are well connected that can cause a code for the blindspot to, the same way you took the radars from the OEM bumper you have to put them back the same way in the new bumper
The issue is they are just floating, it's radar. It has to be mounted and calibrated in a specific spot/angle.
Ian's vibe is awesome. Haven't been on this channel in awhile but will be cuz that guy is a good dude.
great work guys...i work in collision repair...Those "boxes" at the rear of the car probably need recalibrating if they are what i think they are.. super annoying
As someone who also works in that industry I laughed so hard when they said they wanted to make it streetable after taking every safety and other needed sensors for “Oem” cars to work right. Yeah goooood luck on that, easier to throw motec in it than figure this nightmare out lol
@johnathanromero3944 i dont know about the laws across the states, im in New Zealand so would be a mission here, but I'm sure these guys will do what it takes for us to see it on the street
The eventual Street Hunter kit for the M4 inspired by this build but address all the knit-picking... like the wheel gap. It's gonna be sick.
The restraint system error that you have on your M4 right now is regarding with the hood restraint system if I'm correct because I just watched Mat Armstrong's full rebuild on his M5 and he also had the same error. Basically what that error is is that when you hit a pedestrian the hood will have a support for the pedestrian.
this is correct
@@bimmerboi_hutch thank you, i hope TJ sees this :-)
That’s a good call! The hood hinges have a device that pushes the hood up in the event of a crash
I say get valves installed into the exhaust so you can have the ability to be both loud and quiet for different events
That wheel gap is wrong too lol
Race cars don’t need headlights because the track is always LIT
Restraint code is probably the bonnet hinges. They usually have a cylinder on them to raise the bonnet in an impact.
fix the monster truck wheel gap on the m4 GT3
The pads in the front calipers of the AP bbk might be slightly moving when you release and apply the brakes, it’s common.
The noise upfront is 100% pad knock back in the front brakes
Also with the power supply issue, bmws have an” SBK” which is a pyro device to sever the 12v power supply in a crash. If you deleted that the car will throw a battery code as well as a restraint code because it is pinned to the airbag module.
TJ Hunt Awesome Video I'm glad you had a great time driving your Absolutely Incredible M4 GT3 I hope you get those small problems situated asap
With the battery relocation are you using the factory ground wire? If not that’s likely your issue for the power management/airbag codes. The factory ground has a IBS(intelligent battery sensor) built in, that sensor is monitored on a CAN bus which can give you faults for different areas of the car that aren’t necessarily the problem.
As a guy who owned a BMW and had a tech that could hook up to the ecu and not only clear codes but tell the ECU to ignore the faulty code til a later date that the car would hypothetically never see to keep bmw failsafes from interfering or returning.
The power supply code can be a number of things but the first thing that came to my mind is the IBS module. If Ian can figure out if/why the IBS isn’t reading right then that could possibly fix the problem
You should be able to disable the blind spot radar. They have to be mounted at the right angle and calibrated, to work correctly
The issue with the blind spot monitoring is that they need to be recalibrated.
They aren't mounted in the factory location. Calibration won't do anything. He'd be better off disabling the blind spot.
I work for a company that make carbon fibre body kits for luxury cars. with our kits, to allow radars ect to work we have to make a panel in the bumper out of fibreglass to allow the radar to 'see' through the bumper
I’m so sick and tired of a bunch of builds at SEMA not in a running state. I quit going a few years ago.
How has TJ not gotten window tint yet? THAT will be the cherry on top
I am glad you are fixing that terrible exhaust. Like when you strait piped your BRZ, they sound absolutely terrible. And the headlight being the number one comment? Nah, it was the terrible wheel fitment. I get it, it is a race car kit on a street car and it can only go so low before you are literally dragging the car on the ground but that is why this will always not be a complete success of a build. Did you get the kit to fit? Sure. That actually isn't that hard with enough cutting and just planning it out. But does it actually look good? No. Not with the massive 2 bedroom apartment that separates the wheel from the fender.
Holy fuck, TJ has came along ways I remember when I first used to start watching dudes videos right before he bought his first car garage and had the 350Z always used to watch them right when he posted it to RUclips. I’ve been slacking for over five years I know you might not get to the comment, but keep it up man you came along ways. And for everybody else always follow your dreams and you succeed. KEEP MOVING FAWORD!!!! F^(king crazy
I hope we see this on the track soon when its tip top! Been loving this build!
When you remove the back seat to get the factory rear suspension out, the restraint system (seatbelts) need to be reset.
Most of this can be solved with a BMW optimized OBD2 scanner/app
The PayPal payment option is not working on your website. Just a heads up. Take my money for a chance to win the skyline.
The radar sensors on the side in the rear need the funnels that surrounded the modules on both sides. They will not read properly without them and will continue to set the check control message
I really hope whistlingdiesel buys this just so i can see the air struts lift the car while driving
I personally really like the fit and finish, even parts you done see you guys killed it, like the underside of the passenger side skirt, it looks fuckin mint
We need some pics and b roll of the SH Supra, the GTR, the GT3 M4, and Calvins SH 86 all lined up next to eachother!
Those are your Blind spot monitors and they are very sensitive radars that require calibrations, if they are not in the original spots then it’ll be really hard to get them to calibrate
I know there are a few cars that will have issues like that if they’re equipped with auto start/stop because there’s a secondary battery. I’m not too familiar with the g82 but I’d check that if you have auto start/stop
The Noise is simple, your Suspension when you was Breaking is just going to sit in the Right Position. Just the Springs.
Will he actually address it tho👀👀
O dang!
Not before he sells it
@@11393 haha that’s what I meant
Did you register the battery to the car? This needs doing with all newer BMWs.
Blind spot sensor on the rear bumper. Need to mount where they were before
Paint that support structure on the inner wheel wheel on the front fender (near the front sill). its raw colored
Awesome video as always TJ Hunt and Crew. The BMW M4 GT3 is so sick and insane can't wait to see it ripping up the track and to see who wins the R34 GT-T.
your hearing the rotors since its a floating rotor. so slow foward to back or light braking ul feel the floating rotor.
Ian is a genius
The BMW m4 should have a center out muffler for. Flames under the wind will look fire
2:15 was that nickleback! oh my LMAO
An RB30 with twin GT30/35Rs would be dope.
The tires on the m4 are drag radials not for road race good handling
Uhhhh please post the getting followed home video I would really like to know what that’s all about!?
No matter what you say, the back is indecently high. So much work and a great project, but this fitment is a nightmare!
The m4 definitely needs a carbon steering wheel with shift lights and a few extra carbon interior pieces and maybe a built motor after testing it with the stock G82 and the original M4 gt3 race car
That brings us to why is there a GT3 on the back when it’s not?
“Looks like a hectic kit to be honest” explains how I see it perfectly.
I honestly thought the headlight was a racecar thing. I swear I have seen touring or endurance types do this.
IDK if this will work on the M4, when I lowered my Audi and was hearing noise similar to what you're describing. I cut the bump stops and haven't heard the noise since.
Those are your blind spot monitors, they need recalibrated if you turn on and off the vehicle once they are unplugged. If elitek is out there in cali I’d use them since they come to you. If not the BMW dealer should be able to calibrate them.
You are actually completely right about you radarsensor-theory, the same reason why BMW doesn't allow bumpers to be re-painted 2x or more! The Sensors just start reading crazy bs.
At least thats what we are told here in good ol Germany. The Sensors need to be in their original Position.
I have a feeling HKS is sending a brand new crate motor to replace the damaged one.
You guys should make a video taking it to the dealership trying to get the error codes fixed under warranty.
Maybe just me but Ian lowkey looks like tj with a long hair wig in certain angles 😂😂
Just my two cents here. For a GT3 car it looks great. But something is off.
The BRG paint and the high end HRE wheels don't work with the body. Especially not with those wheel arches.
Since it's supposed to be a GT3 car it would have been much better suited with a grimey racing livery and some patina'd worn out racing wheels.
Still a badass build though, just giving my personal opinion. Feel free to flame me in the comments if you must.
Diagnose the restraint system by crashing it and see if the airbags deploy. Whichever one doesn’t was the problem.. hope this helps
0:10 i NEEEEED those photos for my wallpaper on my phone😍😍🤤🤤🤤
Just saw the gt3 shirt on the website and had to order it with a purple keychain, so excited to open it when it arrives, sending some love from Australia!❤
Please teeej keep the signature series hoodies up I wanna experience high quality clothes
My first thought for the new engine was a top secret built rb26
Just hold down the driver assistance button for 3 seconds and turn everything off and see if the problems go away.
as others have probably mentioned, those rear sensors are very finicky, need to be against the bumper as close to OEM
Just came here to say The Fitment!! Is what's wrong. ✌️
As a certified five-year RUclips mechanic, did you try turning it on and off
Looks weird on the front skirt where there should be exhaust anyway that could be a future thing?
A lot of these newer European cars need batteries to be reprogrammed if they got disconnected or died. My cousin had to take his vw to a shop to do it. Not sure if bmw does the same
I learned myself how to drive stick, driving my type r home after buying it lol
Cut the bump stops for more travel
The car was on the rack for months. And new suspension that's normal to hear a clanck after you do all them changes. One or 2 clanks is normal
The restraint system can get a code from the power system malfunction aswell
Im curious to know a update about the shop at the house you was building… been quiet all year
The restraint issue is probably bc of the hood latches, they pop up if your in a crash.
I believe you with the clank noise thing lol was happening to my gti literally tightened all bolts on and around my suspension maybe a quarter turn And complete silence 🤷♂️😂
Vlogmas needs to happen already 🫡
6:11, Hey TJ, that also means that VLOGMAS is also around the corner too.
Tj is the definition of Him
Its really cool to see how huge MVMT has grown since they started sponsering the channel. They used to be so much smaller. Congrats MVMT and TJ.
Lift it more and add off road tires
Lets make a race car but it should be quite 😂
you should do what adam did with the hood and have the M4 hood as a whiteboard for the shop
I use my foxwell nt710 to diagnose my bmw. Could be something to invest in because it works for most vehicles
The thing about the newer BMW's is that they have 2 batteries. A normal battery and a lithium battery. Now usually the power issue can come down to 1 of 2 things. Either the regular battery was low at some point and the vehicle didnt receive correct power. If this happens it can be something as simple as an DME reset. If not, and the lithium battery was affected because the car was sitting without a charge, then it could be fixed with programming update, but I have seen it plenty of times that the Lithium battery needed to be replaced completely. Have also seen the code go away before if the battery was just low and not completely dead, by just driving/leaving the car running. BMW's are really weird with battery/power when its low/left without charge for an extended period of time.
MINIs as well. Super frustrating.
Tj hear me out how about you get a M240i style exhaust that peaks out between the defuser and the bumper🥺
Vlogmas is coming and I feel like IT WAS JUST HERE A WEEK AGO!!!!
To make this thing sound sick like how it looks a KLM Single Turbo With a T51R 😅
Man, it's the little things but I would set something incide the carbon hood to mechanically touch tose sensor
Ian is such a 🐐
There could be a second smaller auxiliary battery that may not be connected now.
The clank could be the exhaust banging around on the hangers
Once of the things I wondered with this build was, will it drive. Hoping it gets square away soon.
Now, about that wheel gap...
Batt might be a bit tired, enough volts but not enough Amps👊🏼😎
could be sway bar linkage from the new height
I would personally keep the current exhaust setup on the M4 GT3, i think it fits and compliments the mean and aggressive look of the body kit🥵💦
bmw's can be scary. I had a clunking noise over bumps, thought it was shock mounts, shock, etc. turned out the diffuser bracket was broken and its made from hard plastic, that would knock against each other - repaired that and clunking noise is gone.
was that a lifted speed3 in the throtl shop lol
The lithium ion battery of the m4 have an extra plug on the side of the battery (very small) and you may also need to calibrate the battery.
Maybe this will help