I know this is an old video but if you're seeing this, thank you man. I used this vid as a guide to replace my pickup tube o ring. Truck hit 0 PSI the other day during single digit Temps and none of the shops in my area would take it for weeks. My stepfather and I did it in my driveway with about 10 hours of labor since it was so cold. If anybody is debating on this, do it now. I am no mechanic and I did it laying on my back in the snow.
What were your signs it was bad? I have an 08 1500 and I put a new oil pressure sensor and screen in but that didn’t do anything. I have pressure right away when I start the truck not a lot but around 25 psi but once it warms up I have nothing
@@swensonswenson4416 check out this video ruclips.net/video/uJrsM0fuZVg/видео.html. If I was you, I would try a motor flush first. If that doesn't work, it's likely the o-ring.
@swensonswenson4416 I was experiencing about 25 PSI at startup at 10 ish psi once warmed up. Then one day all of a sudden I got 0. I've done regular motor flushes in the past so I figured it was either the O ring or the oil pump, and since the pan had to come off either way I got into thr job. Upon examination of the o ring which was flat and a brittle, I was confident the oil pump wasn't at fault. New o ring and voila, 60 psi at start up and 40-42 once warmed up
Finally! A channel that is short and sweet to the point through the whole process ALSO indicating bolt sizes and torques along the way! You’ve got a new subscriber here
Just got a quote for my 1999 Chevy Suburban 4 x 4, just to replace the pan and gasket, $900 Going to do it myself. Thanks for the video. I will do a number of other repairs while I’ve got a number of things removed. Cheap insurance
Just replaced the O-ring on my son's 08 Silverado 5.3. The old o-ring "looked" fine but was pretty stiff and the new o-ring fixed the problem 100%. I dropped the entire diff assembly out of the vehicle and it made it easier. I also took the bolts out of the rack and pinion and dropped it down a bit as well. Without dropping the rack and pinion down, I don't think I could have gotten the pan out. Hopefully this helps someone that may run into the same issue. It really wasn't that bad to drop the diff out and drop the rack down, if I had to do another one, I'd do it the same way.
Glad you got it all fixed up. For me, by leaving one side of diff still attached, I save a ton of time getting it all back in and together, because it just swings back up and right into place. Perhaps I like this because I'm working alone. But whatever works best for you is awesome.
@@FarmDad Thanks again for the video as it was a big help in planning what I would be up against. I do have a hoist so I was able to lower the diff easily with a trans jack. And I was replacing the driver-side wheel bearing and axle shaft while doing this repair so it was just off with the driveshaft and the pass side 6 axle flange bolts, the wiring harness, and the vacuum hose, and the diff was out of the way. I also dropped it into the parts washer and had my son clean it up good from the miles and years of oil and debris that had collected on it. Thanks again! :)
I replaced my pan gasket and broken o ring I only lowered my differential but afterwards I wish I had removed it completely because it was very hard to get the pan and gasket back on the engine.
I’m going to do this soon and I have watched a lot of videos on RUclips but this one is very very well done easy to follow and great job thanks for this👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video. I am getting ready to do this job on my wife's 2010 Escalade with the 6.2. The engine oil cooler lines are leaking as well so those will get changed out at the same time. Would definitely be a much easier job with a lift! Thanks again for the video. Very helpful! Subscribed!
I've changed the o ring twice now by going in through the timing cover. I had to fashion a special box end 10mm wrench but was able to remove the pick-up tube bolt and replace the o ring
It’s much easier to just drop the diff out. You are 1 cv axle away anyways. Then you have all the space you could ever need, no wiggling, no tight squeeze. I’ve done them both ways, and the extra few mins to take it out completely saves time in the long run. Rivet the gasket back on for ease of reinstall
I've done it both ways as well and found this easier when you are working alone. It's not that tight in my opinion and it eliminates the struggle of getting the diff lined back up to be reinstalled. To each his own. Thanks for watching and commenting.
yeah I think this is what is leaking on my 06 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2L motor and it helped me determine...this one the shop can do. lol. Labor is going to suck.
I just completed this same job on my yukon..I ended up having to drop differential completely..sounds like a bigger deal than I actually was. Wasted allot of time trying to finagle the oil pan out, may be easier for less experienced mechanics to just drop differential
I used your video to as a guide. Worked like a charm! Went from Zero to over half way on the gauge. Couple of thoughts. 1st is my oil sensor plug was different than the video. I ended up clipping the wires and repairing them. Turns out trick to removing my sensor plug is to get a right angle pick under the tab (Thats hidden in the 'nut' of the oil sensor). I did not pull the drive shaft or the right hand CV. IT was super tight, But I was able to do it. (It sucked IS there any other way of getting the diff lower?). I would recommend riveting the gasket on the pan. Finally the Torque spec I used for the Differential Nuts and bolts was 75 foot lbs. For the cross member 68 Foot Lbs. For the Pan bolts 18foot lbs. and the 2 skinny bolts at the end were 106 INCH lbs. (Took me two days btw)
Run an engine oil flush product before you do this. You basically add the flush to the engine oil, let it run and cycle the flush for 5-10 mins at idle, then change the oil and filter. Doing that totally fixed low oil pressure on the dash. The sludge in the oil had clogged up the oil screen and oil sensor. The flush cleaned both and my oil pressure jumped back up to normal.
Lol, I am literally the person who first made a video and spread the word about engine flushes and sludge causing these issues. I spread the word to every tech I knew and made a video that's elsewhere on my channel. I love that my fix has now come full circle 🤣🤟👍.
Parts List: Oil Pan Gasket: amzn.to/3rMnaeW Oil Inlet Tube O-Ring: amzn.to/3bMFT4C RTV Silicone (Black is OK too) amzn.to/3vv9eYS Oil Filter: amzn.to/3vv8Rxs Oil: amzn.to/3cDi8ev Deflector (if needed): amzn.to/3cs6bbe Brakleen: amzn.to/3vuX16P With Oil Cooler Lines: amzn.to/39WVwCB With Block Off Plate and no oil cooler lines: amzn.to/2PiZcH1
Getting ready to do this on my 08 Silverado. My question is, if I have to put in the deflector, is there a nut already there or do I have to find one for it? Great video btw.
My oil pressure has always set at 80 and now it still sits at 80 unless I get on it and then it goes to 0, when I let off the gas, it goes back to 80. Maybe its a sensor issue? It's been at 80 for 8-10 years since I bought it with 68k. Thanks for the video, I got stuck on the diff yesterday but, I will try and tackle the rest in a couple days, with the new knowledge.
I just did this yesterday. Went from oil pressure dropping after warm up to 0 pressure. New o ring, gaskets, oil, filter etc. Pressure sensor was changed last year. What did I do wrong?
Hmm thinking this might be my issue as well. Engine at operating temp (210°) and at an idle in drive, gauge shows about 15psi estimated. Driving it’s around 40psi.
Is there a way to do this where i dont have to change the oil again? I literally just got an oil change... I'd hate to dump all the new oil. Guess i can just wait until I do my next oil change.
Thank you for the video. I have an LTZ with a 5.3. Oil pan has a small leak, so planning to do the o-ring and the other piece while in there. I was debating Fel-Pro vs GM for gaskets.
Trying to figure out if the 4.3L Vortec V6 used on Sonoma and S-10 has that same O-ring. I can't find a part number for the O-ring for my truck, thus wondering if one exists.
Amazing video! Where was your pressure before and after the swap? I have a 2009 5.3, I get 20 at idle and I'm lucky if I hit 40 when driving. Engine is quiet when it's cold, but it starts ticking as it heats up and pressure drops. Does this sound like it could be the O ring?
Mine was dropping below 10 and setting off the warning. These ls engines actually run fairly low pressure, so yours doesn't sound too bad to me. But the age of yours makes me think it's still not a bad idea to do the o-rings. This video should also help you: ruclips.net/video/uJrsM0fuZVg/видео.html. thanks!
@@FarmDad Thanks! Yeah, it has 245k. Think I may give this a shot. Watched the other video, think I will try that first. I tried cleaning with ATF, which partially clogged my filter bringing my pressure down to 15, then the engine was VERY noisy, so there has to be gunk in there.
@@jovanhyangeles5056 mine ended up being carbon buildup in the cylinders. Remove the spark plugs and sprayed some cleaner inside, then I switched to E85 and it has been slowly clearing that all out. Maybe 70% quieter? I think it only happened to my vehicle because the previous owner only drove about four blocks to work, so the vehicle took a lot of very short trips for the last year or so before I bought it. So my noise didn't actually have anything to do with oil pressure, it just got louder as the engine heated up and the metal expanded slightly, causing the carbon on the cylinders come in contact with the carbon buildup on the Pistons. I thought it got louder when my filter was clogged, but I think it was just because it's much louder when it is in tow haul mode because of the higher RPMs.
Also ive changed everything u did in this video, sending unit and screen, ect, and im still getting low oil pressures after truck is thoroughly warmed up...any ideas? Im guessing last but not least, i have some shit afm lifters locking up on me
Try a different oil filter. I had a truck that did not like AC Delco filters. If I used one the oil pressure would be 10psi or more lower. I switched to Fram Toughguard filter and the pressure went up.
Will this video instruction work on older 2000 5.3 Tahoe? I would suspect so but wanted to ask. Appreciate your help and sorry if I missed this detail in the comments or video. So far looks great, I'll be back for a "post like" after the work is done:)
I believe we have replaced the oil sending unit on the Tahoe but still getting oil pressure warnings. I believe we're at 18psi for oil pressure when at 2k RPM but idling drops it to 0 and hoping to get it fixed very soon.
Hopefully this is my problem.. truck had 40psi hot.. and over the 6months I’ve owned it it slowly went down to 10…. Then 5psi with the warning light. I changed the sender today but no change. Thinking O ring. Oh well!
Bought a used 2005 silverado with 5.3. Ran perfect the first week put 350 easy miles on it no issues quiet as can be. Changed the oil and the next week I drove it I ran into issues that got worse and worse. First thing was sometimes on startup it would blow a huge cloud of smoke and then it wouldn't do it anymore. Another is a loud tick would start to occur on idle and I'd notice the oil pressure fluctuates between 25-45. If I ran it to 40 psi while driving it goes away. Think this is my issue?
@@theman.6396 oil pressure on these ls based engines often hang out at 20psi when idling and warm. And ticking isn't uncommon at start up. Just FYI. Best to you.
I've had the exact problem you describe. Big cloud of smoke on startup. Nothing when it was warm. Lifter tick.....sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds like you at LEAST need to have the lifters replaced. Commonly when they go out it will eat the camshaft as well. I ended up trading in my truck because of this as it was a couple thousand dollar repair.
Those are not rivets on pan , they are pins. they are guild to hold the gasket in place during installation. those pins side up and down on pan. they will side down as you tighten bolts.
That's pretty much it. Leave one side connected and swing other down. You'll have enough room to do what you need in there and be able to put it all back together easier because it'll just swing back up into place.
I am about to under take this adventure myself. What was the estimated time to completion? I have a fair amount of automotive mechanical experience. 2008 gmc 6.2 denali 122k miles
If you've done it before it only takes a few hours. But I'd add a couple on if it's your first time doing this particular job. I always set aside a day for something like this just in case I run into something unexpected.
Would you let us know what model you did the repair on? I've got an '04 Envoy with 5.3L and thinking about doing this repair because of low oil pressure and suspected clogged pickup tube screen.
@@FarmDad I have since learned that this method won't work for 2002-2009 Envoys, Trailblazers, Bravadas, Rainers, Ascenders, and some other models, because those have the differential that goes through (yes, through) the oil pan. So the only way to get the oil pan off is to remove (or at least disconnect the front diff), remove the intermediate shaft, and remove the front diff actuator. The procedure is detailed in this linked video: ruclips.net/video/m10awhGJhfI/видео.html . That's not to take away from this great and very helpful video - it just applies to newer V8s.
I see the problem already. Mobil 1 oil. That stuff is trash. I gotta finally do my o-ring on my 05 Tahoe 5.3. at 332000 miles. Only ever tasted Valvoline and premium shell gas. But I got nervous when I saw my pressure drop to 28 psi. I'm definitely doing this. Great video
I hate this design of a rubber oring being the only thing keeping the whole engine from losing oil pressure. Should have been like a metal crush gasket it or something more resistant and permanent.
Cheaper to pump oil from drain plug to oil filter, bypassing internal oil pump? Use an electric pump, add a fitting at base of oil filter? Could be a 'Kit'.
No that's not what I did. If you remove the whole differential, you have to realign it and fight to get it back in place. Not bad if you have help but a real pain by yourself. My method only removes one side of the diff so that all you have to do is swing it back up into place. You don't have to realign anything and it's a much easier one man job. It sounds like you were expecting some sort of miracle, but this is as easy as the job gets. As any good dad would say, stop complaining and get to work.
Before you pay the big bucks, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/uJrsM0fuZVg/видео.html. It may fix your oil pressure issue without much work or money at all. Good luck.
Not when you are working by yourself. Those diffs aren't easy to get back up in there and lined up by yourself. This way, you swing it down, do the job, then just swing it back up into place. Everything lines back up, no fighting it, and one man can do it no problem.
I know this is an old video but if you're seeing this, thank you man. I used this vid as a guide to replace my pickup tube o ring. Truck hit 0 PSI the other day during single digit Temps and none of the shops in my area would take it for weeks. My stepfather and I did it in my driveway with about 10 hours of labor since it was so cold. If anybody is debating on this, do it now. I am no mechanic and I did it laying on my back in the snow.
Great job man! I did a head gasket on my buddy's old jeep Cherokee once during a snow storm. About froze to death, lol, but it's a great memory now.
What were your signs it was bad? I have an 08 1500 and I put a new oil pressure sensor and screen in but that didn’t do anything. I have pressure right away when I start the truck not a lot but around 25 psi but once it warms up I have nothing
@@swensonswenson4416 check out this video ruclips.net/video/uJrsM0fuZVg/видео.html. If I was you, I would try a motor flush first. If that doesn't work, it's likely the o-ring.
@swensonswenson4416 I was experiencing about 25 PSI at startup at 10 ish psi once warmed up. Then one day all of a sudden I got 0. I've done regular motor flushes in the past so I figured it was either the O ring or the oil pump, and since the pan had to come off either way I got into thr job. Upon examination of the o ring which was flat and a brittle, I was confident the oil pump wasn't at fault. New o ring and voila, 60 psi at start up and 40-42 once warmed up
Finally! A channel that is short and sweet to the point through the whole process ALSO indicating bolt sizes and torques along the way! You’ve got a new subscriber here
Thanks!
Just got a quote for my 1999 Chevy Suburban 4 x 4, just to replace the pan and gasket, $900 Going to do it myself. Thanks for the video. I will do a number of other repairs while I’ve got a number of things removed. Cheap insurance
Exactly. One of the benefits of doing it yourself is you can easily add on some other maintenance items 👍👍
Best part is... you did it without a lift. I was wondering if it can be done on jack stands! Nice job man! Thank you! Subscribed and liked!
Yes sir. Thanks so much!
Just replaced the O-ring on my son's 08 Silverado 5.3. The old o-ring "looked" fine but was pretty stiff and the new o-ring fixed the problem 100%. I dropped the entire diff assembly out of the vehicle and it made it easier. I also took the bolts out of the rack and pinion and dropped it down a bit as well. Without dropping the rack and pinion down, I don't think I could have gotten the pan out. Hopefully this helps someone that may run into the same issue. It really wasn't that bad to drop the diff out and drop the rack down, if I had to do another one, I'd do it the same way.
Glad you got it all fixed up. For me, by leaving one side of diff still attached, I save a ton of time getting it all back in and together, because it just swings back up and right into place. Perhaps I like this because I'm working alone. But whatever works best for you is awesome.
@@FarmDad Thanks again for the video as it was a big help in planning what I would be up against. I do have a hoist so I was able to lower the diff easily with a trans jack. And I was replacing the driver-side wheel bearing and axle shaft while doing this repair so it was just off with the driveshaft and the pass side 6 axle flange bolts, the wiring harness, and the vacuum hose, and the diff was out of the way. I also dropped it into the parts washer and had my son clean it up good from the miles and years of oil and debris that had collected on it. Thanks again! :)
I replaced my pan gasket and broken o ring I only lowered my differential but afterwards I wish I had removed it completely because it was very hard to get the pan and gasket back on the engine.
Yep replaced o ring and pickup tube ,solved several issues ,without removing diff.
I’m going to do this soon and I have watched a lot of videos on RUclips but this one is very very well done easy to follow and great job thanks for this👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! That's my hope with these videos!
Great video. I am getting ready to do this job on my wife's 2010 Escalade with the 6.2. The engine oil cooler lines are leaking as well so those will get changed out at the same time. Would definitely be a much easier job with a lift! Thanks again for the video. Very helpful! Subscribed!
Hope it goes smoothly for you! I appreciate you.
Kids are having fun dude. Memories of kids when they are small, cherish this time even if you are working with them in the background.
Words of wisdom. Agree 100%.
Best video I’ve found for doing these repairs!!!
Thank you!
Nice work Dad ! Likely at least a thousand dollar repair if you had to take it to a shop. Best of days to you and your family !
Probably! Hope it saves folks some hard-earned cash. Thanks Bubba.
This video also help me get the job done thank you
Fantastic. I appreciate you
Just wanted to say thanks for the video it really helped me with my o ring replacement
Most welcome! Love hearing it's helping people.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate you!
Good instruction. Got my parts ready to start mine soon. I'll be on my back also.
I've changed the o ring twice now by going in through the timing cover. I had to fashion a special box end 10mm wrench but was able to remove the pick-up tube bolt and replace the o ring
I'd like to watch you do that 👍
It’s much easier to just drop the diff out. You are 1 cv axle away anyways. Then you have all the space you could ever need, no wiggling, no tight squeeze. I’ve done them both ways, and the extra few mins to take it out completely saves time in the long run. Rivet the gasket back on for ease of reinstall
I've done it both ways as well and found this easier when you are working alone. It's not that tight in my opinion and it eliminates the struggle of getting the diff lined back up to be reinstalled. To each his own. Thanks for watching and commenting.
yeah I think this is what is leaking on my 06 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2L motor and it helped me determine...this one the shop can do. lol. Labor is going to suck.
Have low oil pressure, I assume?
I just completed this same job on my yukon..I ended up having to drop differential completely..sounds like a bigger deal than I actually was. Wasted allot of time trying to finagle the oil pan out, may be easier for less experienced mechanics to just drop differential
Thanks for the video
I used your video to as a guide. Worked like a charm! Went from Zero to over half way on the gauge. Couple of thoughts. 1st is my oil sensor plug was different than the video. I ended up clipping the wires and repairing them. Turns out trick to removing my sensor plug is to get a right angle pick under the tab (Thats hidden in the 'nut' of the oil sensor). I did not pull the drive shaft or the right hand CV. IT was super tight, But I was able to do it. (It sucked IS there any other way of getting the diff lower?). I would recommend riveting the gasket on the pan. Finally the Torque spec I used for the Differential Nuts and bolts was 75 foot lbs. For the cross member 68 Foot Lbs. For the Pan bolts 18foot lbs. and the 2 skinny bolts at the end were 106 INCH lbs. (Took me two days btw)
Awesome job, buddy! Glad the video helped get you going.
Two days????? Did you take breaks or something???
Run an engine oil flush product before you do this. You basically add the flush to the engine oil, let it run and cycle the flush for 5-10 mins at idle, then change the oil and filter. Doing that totally fixed low oil pressure on the dash. The sludge in the oil had clogged up the oil screen and oil sensor. The flush cleaned both and my oil pressure jumped back up to normal.
Lol, I am literally the person who first made a video and spread the word about engine flushes and sludge causing these issues. I spread the word to every tech I knew and made a video that's elsewhere on my channel. I love that my fix has now come full circle 🤣🤟👍.
Very through description! Very helpful, thank you!
Glad to hear that.
Parts List:
Oil Pan Gasket: amzn.to/3rMnaeW
Oil Inlet Tube O-Ring: amzn.to/3bMFT4C
RTV Silicone (Black is OK too) amzn.to/3vv9eYS
Oil Filter: amzn.to/3vv8Rxs
Oil: amzn.to/3cDi8ev
Deflector (if needed): amzn.to/3cs6bbe
Brakleen: amzn.to/3vuX16P
With Oil Cooler Lines: amzn.to/39WVwCB
With Block Off Plate and no oil cooler lines: amzn.to/2PiZcH1
Getting ready to do this on my 08 Silverado. My question is, if I have to put in the deflector, is there a nut already there or do I have to find one for it?
Great video btw.
Thank you!
Welcome!
My oil pressure has always set at 80 and now it still sits at 80 unless I get on it and then it goes to 0, when I let off the gas, it goes back to 80. Maybe its a sensor issue? It's been at 80 for 8-10 years since I bought it with 68k. Thanks for the video, I got stuck on the diff yesterday but, I will try and tackle the rest in a couple days, with the new knowledge.
Man, I'm not sure. Weird.
Definitely sensor i had the same issue
And I appreciate you, good sir.
Glad it helped. Appreciate you too.
I just did this yesterday. Went from oil pressure dropping after warm up to 0 pressure. New o ring, gaskets, oil, filter etc. Pressure sensor was changed last year. What did I do wrong?
Sounds like you are probably going to need to drop that pan again and see what you see. 😔
@FarmDad sounds like it. Well, at least I'm a pro at disassembly now thanks to your video!
Great video! Thank you
Glad to hear it helped.
Hmm thinking this might be my issue as well. Engine at operating temp (210°) and at an idle in drive, gauge shows about 15psi estimated. Driving it’s around 40psi.
These engines don't make a lot of oil pressure. Unless your low oil pressure indicator is coming on, I wouldn't worry about it yet.
Oh I gotta this
Is there a way to do this where i dont have to change the oil again? I literally just got an oil change... I'd hate to dump all the new oil. Guess i can just wait until I do my next oil change.
You could catch and reuse your oil, but it's normally easier and better just to change it.
Thank you for the video. I have an LTZ with a 5.3. Oil pan has a small leak, so planning to do the o-ring and the other piece while in there. I was debating Fel-Pro vs GM for gaskets.
I prefer gm usually. Fel pro isn't what they used to be.
Do you show how to put it all back together? Amazing video. I have the same exact truck
In an effort to save time, I only show anything that differs from when you take it apart. Otherwise, it's the exact reverse of procedure.
Trying to figure out if the 4.3L Vortec V6 used on Sonoma and S-10 has that same O-ring. I can't find a part number for the O-ring for my truck, thus wondering if one exists.
Turns out the 4.3 does not have that O-ring.
Would my 2013 Denali have that oil deflector pc already?
Yes
Amazing video! Where was your pressure before and after the swap? I have a 2009 5.3, I get 20 at idle and I'm lucky if I hit 40 when driving. Engine is quiet when it's cold, but it starts ticking as it heats up and pressure drops. Does this sound like it could be the O ring?
Mine was dropping below 10 and setting off the warning. These ls engines actually run fairly low pressure, so yours doesn't sound too bad to me. But the age of yours makes me think it's still not a bad idea to do the o-rings. This video should also help you: ruclips.net/video/uJrsM0fuZVg/видео.html. thanks!
@@FarmDad Thanks! Yeah, it has 245k. Think I may give this a shot. Watched the other video, think I will try that first. I tried cleaning with ATF, which partially clogged my filter bringing my pressure down to 15, then the engine was VERY noisy, so there has to be gunk in there.
@@alexwharton7407 I am having the same issue, did you ever find out what’s causing it?
@@jovanhyangeles5056 mine ended up being carbon buildup in the cylinders. Remove the spark plugs and sprayed some cleaner inside, then I switched to E85 and it has been slowly clearing that all out. Maybe 70% quieter? I think it only happened to my vehicle because the previous owner only drove about four blocks to work, so the vehicle took a lot of very short trips for the last year or so before I bought it. So my noise didn't actually have anything to do with oil pressure, it just got louder as the engine heated up and the metal expanded slightly, causing the carbon on the cylinders come in contact with the carbon buildup on the Pistons. I thought it got louder when my filter was clogged, but I think it was just because it's much louder when it is in tow haul mode because of the higher RPMs.
@@alexwharton7407 what product did you use?
Also ive changed everything u did in this video, sending unit and screen, ect, and im still getting low oil pressures after truck is thoroughly warmed up...any ideas? Im guessing last but not least, i have some shit afm lifters locking up on me
Try a different oil filter. I had a truck that did not like AC Delco filters. If I used one the oil pressure would be 10psi or more lower. I switched to Fram Toughguard filter and the pressure went up.
@@RoliO11 I am using the frams, I've always used them
I started doing this earlier today, I could not find that oil cooler bolts you mentioned where exactly is it?
You may not have an oil cooler. You may just have a block off plate on the driver's side of your engine block.
I was thinking about doing this I guess it's time to sell it
You got this. It's really not too bad.
Super cool man
What torque wrench do you use because I’m trying to find one For my 2007 Chevy suburban first time
I have an old Snap on, that I mostly use. But I also have a harbor freight one and one off Amazon.
Will this video instruction work on older 2000 5.3 Tahoe? I would suspect so but wanted to ask. Appreciate your help and sorry if I missed this detail in the comments or video. So far looks great, I'll be back for a "post like" after the work is done:)
I believe we have replaced the oil sending unit on the Tahoe but still getting oil pressure warnings. I believe we're at 18psi for oil pressure when at 2k RPM but idling drops it to 0 and hoping to get it fixed very soon.
I believe the differences are very minor and the basics of this procedure is the same. Good luck.
do you have to have the truck aligned after taking bolts out of differential
You do not. Good question.
Use zip ties on gasket,cut off before righting bolts
What if i spray carbcleaner inside the pan for any sludge
That should work
Hopefully this is my problem.. truck had 40psi hot.. and over the 6months I’ve owned it it slowly went down to 10…. Then 5psi with the warning light. I changed the sender today but no change. Thinking O ring. Oh well!
Before you do the o-ring, watch this video too: ruclips.net/video/uJrsM0fuZVg/видео.html
@@FarmDad Got it all apart today! Oring seemed loose and not sealing well. Didn’t reassemble yet. Will check that video thanks!
Bought a used 2005 silverado with 5.3. Ran perfect the first week put 350 easy miles on it no issues quiet as can be. Changed the oil and the next week I drove it I ran into issues that got worse and worse. First thing was sometimes on startup it would blow a huge cloud of smoke and then it wouldn't do it anymore. Another is a loud tick would start to occur on idle and I'd notice the oil pressure fluctuates between 25-45. If I ran it to 40 psi while driving it goes away. Think this is my issue?
This issue would probably cause lower oil pressure than what you are seeing.
@@FarmDad I gotcha. I definitely have something causing my oil pressure to drop. Going to try a thicker oil I guess.
@@theman.6396 oil pressure on these ls based engines often hang out at 20psi when idling and warm. And ticking isn't uncommon at start up. Just FYI. Best to you.
I've had the exact problem you describe. Big cloud of smoke on startup. Nothing when it was warm. Lifter tick.....sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds like you at LEAST need to have the lifters replaced. Commonly when they go out it will eat the camshaft as well. I ended up trading in my truck because of this as it was a couple thousand dollar repair.
Cloud of smoke is most likely your left valve cover.
How many miles on the engine and what type of low oil pressure did you experience?
It had probably 240 to 250k. Low oil pressure warning was coming on frequently.
Will this job be easier on a 5.3 with rwd ?
If you don't have 4 wheel drive, it's super easy. Just drop the pan and get 'er done.
Those are not rivets on pan , they are pins. they are guild to hold the gasket in place during installation. those pins side up and down on pan. they will side down as you tighten bolts.
About how long did this take you to do?
Man, I don't remember, plus when you are filming it takes twice as long. I'd sit aside a Saturday for it just in case you run into any issues
Kind of lost me right before the diff drop. So you left the driver side axle connected and just lowered the front diff? Maybe I will watch again.
That's pretty much it. Leave one side connected and swing other down. You'll have enough room to do what you need in there and be able to put it all back together easier because it'll just swing back up into place.
So the fel pro o ring is trash is what you saying
I am about to under take this adventure myself. What was the estimated time to completion? I have a fair amount of automotive mechanical experience. 2008 gmc 6.2 denali 122k miles
If you've done it before it only takes a few hours. But I'd add a couple on if it's your first time doing this particular job. I always set aside a day for something like this just in case I run into something unexpected.
Have you herd of the o ring causing low oil pressure and oil consumption
Yes, that's the reason for changing it in this video.
Would you let us know what model you did the repair on? I've got an '04 Envoy with 5.3L and thinking about doing this repair because of low oil pressure and suspected clogged pickup tube screen.
This is a 2013 Yukon xl with 6.2l, but your envoy will be nearly the same. These ls engines are all similar and the procedure is the same.
@@FarmDad I have since learned that this method won't work for 2002-2009 Envoys, Trailblazers, Bravadas, Rainers, Ascenders, and some other models, because those have the differential that goes through (yes, through) the oil pan. So the only way to get the oil pan off is to remove (or at least disconnect the front diff), remove the intermediate shaft, and remove the front diff actuator. The procedure is detailed in this linked video: ruclips.net/video/m10awhGJhfI/видео.html . That's not to take away from this great and very helpful video - it just applies to newer V8s.
I see the problem already. Mobil 1 oil. That stuff is trash. I gotta finally do my o-ring on my 05 Tahoe 5.3. at 332000 miles. Only ever tasted Valvoline and premium shell gas. But I got nervous when I saw my pressure drop to 28 psi. I'm definitely doing this. Great video
I hate this design of a rubber oring being the only thing keeping the whole engine from losing oil pressure. Should have been like a metal crush gasket it or something more resistant and permanent.
Cheaper to pump oil from drain plug to oil filter, bypassing internal oil pump? Use an electric pump, add a fitting at base of oil filter? Could be a 'Kit'.
The title says "Without removing the differential". but that's exactly what he did WTF???
No that's not what I did. If you remove the whole differential, you have to realign it and fight to get it back in place. Not bad if you have help but a real pain by yourself. My method only removes one side of the diff so that all you have to do is swing it back up into place. You don't have to realign anything and it's a much easier one man job. It sounds like you were expecting some sort of miracle, but this is as easy as the job gets. As any good dad would say, stop complaining and get to work.
X2^
The other videos don't take it off either just a little false adv
Every video I saw before I made this one dropped the differential completely out of the truck.
Waaay easier to just remove the diff.Hell..you got it loose why not? Ive done a dozen of these and diff out is much faster.
I disagree. It swings down, then swings back up. Prevents all the fighting of getting things lined back up again. I'm way faster with this method.
@@FarmDad Not all of the GM chassis and years with the 5.3 have the same clearances for the pan, so one time does not tell the whole story.
Thought the same thing too, the diff is super simple to remove, and gives you all kinds of room.
Yeeaahhh no...I'll pay to have mine done..I don't like being on the ground like that
Before you pay the big bucks, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/uJrsM0fuZVg/видео.html. It may fix your oil pressure issue without much work or money at all. Good luck.
More eazy removing diff way more eazy 🤦♂️
Not when you are working by yourself. Those diffs aren't easy to get back up in there and lined up by yourself. This way, you swing it down, do the job, then just swing it back up into place. Everything lines back up, no fighting it, and one man can do it no problem.