Thank you so much for watching! Here are a few points of clarification based on the comments so far. In regards to the Restore & Protect product itself, it is not for Diesel engines. For information about availability, I'd recommend contacting Valvoline directly (www.valvolineglobal.com/en/) To see engine parts before and after a tear down, check out the original video: ruclips.net/video/kyyZDghgdCI/видео.html As to the backstory on my wife's van. We bought it new in 2012, and it has only ever used Toyota Genuine 0W-20 (which is made by ExxonMobil, but is not the same formula as Mobil 1). We did the early oil changes just like I did with my daughter's Corolla: ruclips.net/video/_6nWCQ_70J0/видео.html. I worked for Joe Gibbs Racing when we purchased the van, and Toyota had a special deal for the team members at that time - lifetime powertrain warranty if all the service work was done at a Toyota dealership. That's the primary reason for the 10k oil change intervals, but the used oil analysis results never showed any wear issues or oil health issues going that far. There are no oil consumption issues with the engine, so the varnish is the only downside of that extended oil change interval (until the Restore and Protect fixed that). And just in case you didn't watch the entire video, there are no sponsors on these videos. Neither Valvoline or any other oil companies pay me to make these videos. I choose to make videos about the products and topics that I find technically interesting based on my expertise and 20 years of industry experience. Also, I hope these videos provide value to you, the viewer.
I get it at Walmart online, and it's here within one to three days via a local contract courier. It's actually a lot cheaper than it is at any of the few other places I've seen it online, and almost absurdly cheaper than it is at the only store to recently begin carrying it out of the four big-name aftermarket parts stores in my area. I am not a fan of Walmart in many regards, but people who don't at least occasionally shop there are few and far between.
@ please do if you get the chance. I'm torn between the two. If the Valvoline synthetic is as robust as the gas to liquid then I may switch. Thanks for your time.
I’m a high mileage vehicle owner (x2) and love not having car payments. I really appreciate this content because anything that can help my older (but awesome) vehicles stay healthy longer is a huge win for me. Thank you so much Lake!
I enjoy old vehicles. I've had very good luck. 2006 F150 250,000 miles. 09 Camry 235,000. 97 RAV4 240,000. My wife gets spoiled 2019 VW Atlas 65,000 miles. No car payments in 22 years.
And I thought I was spoiling myself buying a 2005 silverado with 235k miles. It drives like a dream compared to the 1983 chevy manual K30 dually I was daily driving. I still love hopping in the dually though. And any towing that needs done the silverado doesn't hold a candle to that old beast.
I saw your interview with the Valvoline team and decided to try it in my old 97 Civic with the D16Y7 engine. I was losing oil at a rate of a quart every 500 miles. After going through 3 changes so far I can nor go a 1000+ miles per quart loss! I am SOLD!
How would cleaning gunk off of stuff slow oil consumption? If anything it seems the rings would get looser and allow more oil in the combustion chamber. There has to be a reason other than cleaning debris.
@@XBX1MASTER because the gummed up oil control rings don't function properly when all gummed up and stuck. Unstuck rings will function in a superior fashion. So yes, less consumption is reasonable.
I'm on my third 3k oil change with R & P on my 2005 Colorado cyl with 210k miles. Borescoped the internals and they are clean as a whistle. Cam chain noise on cold start is now gone. I'm impressed.
My wife has about 180,000 miles on her 2017 CR-V. It was consuming about a quart per month which is about 2000 miles. I check the level and add oil every month. I just did the third change with Restore and Protect in the 0W20 weight and when I checked the dip stick recently I noticed the oil consumption has slowed. I need few more months to draw any firm conclusions, but the stuff does seem to work. I have tried other methods to cleaner the rings in this engine before and non have worked. I would not have used R&P without seeing it on this channel.
Between all the feedback and your testimony, I am planning to try this product. Out of curiosity, was 505CRF one of the products you tried? I've used it with notable improvements in reduced noise and smoother running. No idea on the specific internal cleanliness comparing before and after.
I am currently using R&P on my wifes crv also. But during a random oil change i used STP ceramic oil treatment( blue $12 15oz bottle) and guess what it hardly used any oil during the 4,000 mi before I changed it. Didn't use it next oil change and went right back to using oil about a qt per 1500mi. Doing the R&P for 3 changes to see if it helps if not I'm going to go back to Castrol edge and the stp.
I see what you did there Mr Fiat; it would seem you found the miracle answer to effortless sticky piston ring repair! I've also used Yamalube Ring-free additive in the gas tank of all my cars (2002 Camry V6 w 204,000 miles, 2001 Solara V6 w 280,000, and my 2017 Lexus LS460 w 70,000 miles) for about a year now mostly as a preventative step. There are other such products, they all seem to cost about the same ($20-25 per 12 oz, 4 oz per dose). And if the additive is actually doing its job I'll probably never know the difference, which is the goal i think. But the Solara has 280,000 miles on it, didn't get maintained as well as the other two (3,000 vs 5,000 mile oil interval) and the only one that truly needs chemicals for de-sludging. That's the only one whose oil I changed to Valvoline R & P, and I guess I probably need to keep doing it.
I believe this is the real deal finally. Sea-Foam will clean the lifters and rockers, but it seams to fall short of cleaning piston ring grooves. R&P seams to finish the job that other flushes could not ! 1998 Silverado 5.7 engine so quiet I thought my hearing had failed. Only time will tell will the rings fully unstick.
I have a 2011 with the looser rings (0W-20). This stuff made it stopped burning oil completely after it was burning 1q/1,500 miles. I noticed the piston slap dissipate almost immediately but my valves clatter like crazy. I’m overdue for a valve lashing 😅
Excellent! Lake, I put this in my 2012 Camry and noticed the mpg gauge begin to go up. I’ve changed my oil every 5k from Toyota dealerships since I've owned it but around 170k it would burn oil. Prior to VRP I was using Amsoil High Mileage, which is a great oil but it didn't increase my mpg as fast as the VRP and only after 300 miles of putting it in. So this product begins to work immediately. Can't wait for your comparison with Amsoil vs Valvoline Restore and Protect.
I've been using it in my 01 Ram 1500. Idle is smoother, less oil consumption, and I see the oil get darker in appearance earlier compared to Pennzoil and other Valvoline products. This indicates to me that Lake is correct - it is doing a great job of thoroughly dissolving deposits.
@@paulsmith5237Since you're noticing it (VRP) getting darker... Would you say it still has a slightly translucent/golden color or has it actually gone opaque/black? Seen various videos of VRP Oil changes 3-5K miles where the Oil still has a relatively clear/golden appearance and not dirty/black...
Your findings at 7 minutes are HUGE because this is the premature wear that happens on modern Toyotas, the gunk that seizes the oil control rings. Amazing!!!
Camry v6 piston that is in many Toyotas and Lexuses, same piston even in the 1urfse 4.6 v8 engine and same issue. Diesel soak can get it out but this way looks less hassle...
@@jankington216 Toyota's and Honda's as well have too low of a vacuum in their PCV System and the Blowby accumulates in the ring pack. I found this with my Acura MDX. They went to Synthetic oil to raise the NOACK temp and this extends the problem out but any engine that has factory recommended 10K OCI's but the mechanics tell you 3k to 5k OCI's or you'll get stuck rings, this will probably be the problem. They don't want to contaminate the intake and cylinders with the Blowby so they will build a Catch Can inside the engine and drop PCV vac to around -.2 to -.8inH2O. Most domestic still run 1 to 3inHg that I'm aware of. Hook a Manometer to your dipstick tube and run the hose to the drivers seat so you can monitor. 1inHg is 13.6inH2O, I don't doubt this oil does what it says but it's going around the problem in some engine. My neighbors Nissan Frontier is around -.9inH2O, still too low for good function. We'll see how this all plays out. Look how low my wife's TL stays and sometimes under pressure(inH2O). I've corrected all of mine including a couple of Civics. ruclips.net/video/0NmEvB2lFS0/видео.html We have oils that are far better than 10 years ago but OCI's of 30 years ago, somethings wrong with that. Engines should commonly see 400-600K miles, my 10 MDX is at 290K+ and it's one of the highest mileage of the MDX'er forum.
I just switched to VRP for my last oil change, 2014 Toyota Tacoma, 4.0L V6. It's currently at 170,000 and I have been very diligent with all of my maintenance and religiously change my oil at 5,000 miles or less. I generally run Penzoil Platinum and don't use any oil. After about 1,500 miles on this change, it actually feels like it has better throttle response. I also got about 1 mpg better on a recent trip to my parents house. I'll run the next couple of oil changes with this oil and see how it does.
Same story here. 2010 rx350 with the Toyota 3.5 V6. Mpg is 5-10% better, idle is smoother and quieter, all while the car drives smoother and faster. I'm sold.
Got a ‘12 taco 169k with restore and protect on the first run. Have about 2k on the oil and still looks amber on the stick, I agree that the engine is very happy on this oil. Thought at this point some cleaning would be taking place but not yet. Been running valvoline extended protection for 3 years before the switch. 5k oil changes as soon as the maintenance required light starts flashing.
Thank you for your work confirming valvolines claims! As I have commented before, no one beats valvoline for long. When someone 1 ups them, they go at it hard until they 1 up the 1 upper! When mobil1 came out, valvoline clapped back with their updated synpower synthetic within 8 months and blew mobil1 out of the water.
i agree. they are a go 2 brand. the only real difference between high mileage oil and regular is that high mileage oil has a little bit of stop leak in it, they call it seal conditioners. valvoline maxlife has the highest concentration, and highest quality seal conditioner. this formula has definatly outright stopped engine leaks for me in about 2 to 3 changes. though. i like castrol better because castrol is better in terms of lubrication. pennzoil has come a very long way since its problematic days, I think its synthetic formula gives the best lubrication and even protection for long intervals 6k changes and up without it stating that it is formulated for 10k mile oil changes. but hey valvoline has all the protection you need to get a full life out of any OEM engine. now that valvoline has an engine oil dedicated for cleaning engines to rival royal purples product at a lower price they are THE go to brand.
so your choice of oil used determined the internal cleanliness and thus required this new product. I notice valvolines doesnt lie as they use the oldest words in advertising " UP TO " so cleaning .oooo1 % would mean ...it works it really does ! Use amzoils best from the start and prob will not require this "up to" product.
I've used the VR&P for going on 20k miles in my 2016 Toyota Highlander. I used a borescope to look into the valvetrain before and now after and it looks brand new in there! Same with the dipstick. Very impressed with it and I'll continue to use it. I'm usually very skeptical of claims like this, but it's proven to me it works as advertised!
In my 2016 Volvo XC90 (which unfortunately has the narrower oil return rings) I was losing 1 quart per 1200 miles between 60K and 75K miles. Volvo wouldn't cover it unless it burned a quart per 600 miles. I ran Restore & Protect for 10K miles (changed twice at 5,000 miles each) and now I'm 2000 miles into my 3rd fill of R&P and my oil level is still 90 to 95% (just down a 2 or 3 ticks from the top). This saved me an engine rebuild.
I'm currently running this in my 2016 V60xc to hopefully slow consumption. Started using VRP at 85k miles burning about 1Qt / 2,000mi. Really hoping this stuff works!
@rickveldman1214 It definitely works. While there are some definite flaws with the oil ring size as well as the return holes in the piston (just behind the oil ring )being too small and too few, this stuff effectively cleans those out so it can at least be as it was when new. You might need to change your oil filter within 1000 to 2500 miles into the clean because a lot of sludge will be removed potentially clogging the filter. You can do this without replacing all the oil. You'll lose just a bit when taking out the filter. If you have a good scan tool, you can check the oil pressure before and after the change to get a good idea of the normal pressure range, then just replace the filter when it falls outside that range (too low)
I started using Valvoline restore and protect in my 390,000 mile cavalier just a month or so back after watching Lakes first video on the product, super glad he took it one step farther and brought to us this new video! Thank you so much Lake for doing what you do!
Lake Speed maybe your most incredible video yet. Tried the first dose of the Valv R & P on my 2001 Solara with 280,000 and wasn't sure if I should put it in the next change, now I guess I will do it. I don't believe anybody can give out any better wisdom nor more technically accurate advice on engine oil, than a qualified tribologist like you. I value your opinions 10 times as much as anybody else's on this platform. Long comment follows: I have always gone by 3 mo/3000 mile oil changes and that's because I've seen the good results for myself. A few years ago I decided to do an in-car overhaul of my old 1988 Nissan Z24 pickup w 190,000 miles. It needed a valve job but I decided I'd change the rings too, since the head was off, and I'd always wanted the challenge of doing it. And after removing the pistons from the engine block, there was very little evidence of wear to be found: no cylinder wall scoring and no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder (which it is almost routine to find in neglected engines). I had bought a cylinder ridge-reamer but didn't need to use it since there was no ridge. All the piston rings were relatively clean, none were sticking, and they all moved freely. All there was to clean off was a very light trace of hard deposits, probably carbon, in the ring grooves. Connecting rod bearings were like new so I just re-used them. And there was not a trace of sludge or varnish in the oil pan nor anywhere else. Even the oil pump pickup screen was spotless. Seeing all that with my own eyes, on my own car, made me a true believer in 3,000 mile changes.
Thanks for the kind words and the comment. If 3,000 mile oil changes work for you, keep doing. I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do. I'm just here to provide info and let each person make their own decisions.
I know what you mean. My father ran the cheapest gas he could find on his 1970 Datsun Thai rebuilt at 200,000 miles he always used castrol GTX 20/50 changed every 3000 miles and never went over 4000 mile between changes. No ridge. I judt honed it. I had bought new main and rod bearings. Changed them but I was curious on the bearing wear. I plastigauged the bearing with the old bearings and they weee the same. I also expected all kinds of carbon buildup on the valves choking the flow like you used to see in the commercials for name brand fuel. There was none. Remember this is on a carbureted car with a manual choke. He always warned it up for at least 2 to : minutes before driving it. I have concerns over this oil in long term use on newer cars newer meaning 10 years or older. My concern is with the detergent being this strong to actually remove this baked on gunk having a hardening effect on the valve stem seals in a long term use. I know they tested it in dump to simulate lots of miles but I know they have not tested this stuff for 10 years in time and not 10 year simulations
I use this in both our vehicles. My wife’s 2018 Elantra has 52k miles. No issues other than she went over 5,000 miles on a few occasions, and had some sludge buildup. My 2020 forte has 35k miles and has always had 4500 miles or less oil changes. The oil turned darker so much quicker than mine. I drove from NJ to SC and back and my oil still looked brand new. I changed both cars at 3k anyway since it was the 1st round of R&P and was concerned about the filter (along with everyone else on YT) lol. Neither filter was bad enough were I think it would have clogged if I went the full 5k. I love this stuff, our engines seem to love it. They’re both noticeably quieter. It’s almost time for oil change number 3. I’ll go five rounds with this and prob switch back to PUP
I love your enthusiasm for tribology. Man, you talk my language. I resolved my oil consumption issue a year ago, but I still watch each week for your next Video. Keep up the great content. I sent a request to team behind my favourite podcast, Ologies, to interview you. You are a born science communicator trapped under a hood. I love it!
I fixed my 2014 Audi's oil consumption by upgrading the pistons. The EA888 Gen 2 engine is prone to issues with low-tension oil control rings that carbon up and fail. Since this was a project car I bought at a great price, I chose the long-term fix: rebuilding the engine with updated pistons that address the flaw. It was worth it for me, as I had the skills, and other key components had been recently updated. I also couldn’t try Restore and Protect 5W40 since I cannot get it in 5W40, but if it meets your car’s specs, it’s worth a shot-you have nothing to lose if you have oil bypassing the positions. My questions for you: 1. What diagnostics have you done to narrow down the cause of your oil consumption? Have you done a compression test, inspected the pistons for oil wash, or checked the intake pipes and PCV system for oil buildup? 2. How many miles are on your car, what’s its oil change history, have you tried any products like Restore and Protect and was there any improvement, what value do you place on the car after repairing the issue? 3. Is your car/engine known for oil consumption issues, and what are the common causes? Remember, oil consumption can have many causes. On some engines, it’s as simple as a bad PCV valve or a leaking turbo. Let me know-I’m happy to help you troubleshoot before you try something. Remember, facts over speculation: Condition, Cause, Confirm, Correct.
Great video, My sister & Nephew both got replacement cars and I got this oil for them with an oem filter and told them to bring me their vehicle in 3-5,000 miles so I can replace the oil again. I took some photo's of the oil cap and fill hole with all the varnish as well as dipstick to see how they look after the first change.
You have access to something no one else does, mountains of real world data. You should create an entire series comparing the wear rate per 1,000 miles for every oil. Like an oil showdown. Use all the customer data to show which oils have the most and least wear. I think a lot of people would like to see the results!
As an engineer I love your honest data driven analyses. My 2012, 130,000 mile Pilot dropped a cam belt. No valve damage but I had to have the heads skimmed. The tops of the pistons were covered with buildup so I manually cleaned off what I could. Based on your videos I'm now running my first VR&P. Only 1,000 miles in but I can report the engine is much quieter and smoother and my mpg has shot up North of 26 mpg on the freeway. I was at 22/23 before. My dipstick also looks brand new. I'm going to go to 5,000 and will scope a cylinder or two and examine the filter. So far I'm sold. I'll report back....Thanks!
I purchased a 1998 Lexus LS400 earlier this year with 158,000mi on it. I’ve always used Mobil 1, but switched to the restore & protect after seeing your last video on it. I saw the same thing on the dipstick after the first oil change, almost completely clean! Hats off to the engineers at Valvoline, it’s incredible stuff! I’m just hoping they’ll make a 5w-40 for the euro cars🙏
Damn, I need to try it I just bought a 2008 Nissan Armada with 180k miles it runs great it was built like a tank but I like years ago I know more about cars and maintenance
GS460 with moderate oil use (old owners went over a bit too much obviously), going to try restore and protect next time. The dipstick on this is clean though at just over 100k miles.
@@chestrockwell8328 a detergent cleaning test, since they both make bold claims. I belive penzoil protects better in its more uniform properties as it’s a cleaner base oil.
@@chestrockwell8328 My truck runs much quieter, and shows slightly less wear on Pennzoil Ultra platinum while the restore and Protect cleaned the engine in a way that Pennzoil could not ever hope to. Pennzoil is superior protection. R and P is superior cleaning. Which makes sense if you think about it. What are the odds they made such a good cleaner that can also protect as well as the best? Or vise versa. I might believe it if it was a company like amsoil but this is valvoline we are talking about. They sell most their oil the way Jiffy lube used to sell oil.
Awesome stuff to hear. I'm running a test of this oil in a 1980s Briggs and Stratton 5HP flathead engine. Tore it down when I first bought it and put it back together without cleaning anything up. Changing the oil every 25 hours. Will be interesting to see what the inside looks like after 100 hours
I have been absolutely blown away by my results with Valvoline restore and protect. I have high mileage Subarus that call for 0w 20. I switched them to Valvoline restore and protect 5W30 and started using an upper engine lubricant, marvel mystery oil in every gas tank. Based on my results with speed diagnostics, I'm now achieving the lowest wear rate I have ever seen in any of my vehicles, 1.4 parts per million per 1,000 mi. This is the best results I've ever had and clear proof that not only is it cleaning my engine, but my process is protecting better than I've ever seen versus royal purple and isemitsu
Now quit putting that snake oil nonsense in your gas and and you'll do even better. Like with the oil the chemists that developed the gasolines you use know exactly what should be in it, and here comes you along thinking you're smarter than them. I'm a professional high performance engine builder with 40 years experience building racing engines, we go to great lengths machining the tops of valve stem guides to press on the latest modern seals to keep oil out of combustion chambers to eliminate detonation which is paramount for performance, nothing will cause detonation faster than oil inclusion in a combustion chamber, you're losing performance and mileage because your knock sensor is pulling timing out and richening your mixture, in an older non ECU type vehicle you'd hear detonation from putting oil in your gas, the very thing a performance engine builder goes to great lengths to eliminate and your actually mixing it in, serious face palm moment here. Just like how Lake made a video about oil additives being snake oil nonsense that you should never use because the chemists who develop these oils know exactly what they're doing the same holds true for gasoline, the people who make it are very smart, don't go thinking you're smarter than they are.
@@dukecraig2402 clearly you haven't watched lakes upper engine lubricant discussions. I have data to back up. R&p without gasoline add = 1.9 ppm, with equals 1.4ppm just like lake said it would. (See his videos on gasoline additives. He was talking about shell v-power I believe, but we don't have any of those close.)
@@marstedt how do you explain the verifiable (done twice) lower wear results. We achieved lower engine wear with both Lucas and marvel upper engine lubricant in the fuel based on speed diagnostics analysis.
@@bjg6695 Here's the problem with your thinking, when's the last time you saw a car in traffic that was smoking? A long time ago, 40 years back you couldn't go into town without seeing at least one car that had oil smoke coming out of it's exhaust, now you MIGHT see that once a year, and it ain't gonna be from worn rings, a cracked one maybe but not worn out rings. With all due respect to Lake when we're talking about what goes on inside a combustion chamber that's my field of expertise, he's concentrating on wear but at the same time ignoring other factors, you're losing mileage and performance worrying about something that just doesn't wear out anymore, rings are lasting the lifetime of these modern engines even for these people who don't take care of their engines the way they're supposed to, bearings and everything else is what goes out in today's engines, but not rings, long gone are the days of having to "re-ring" an engine during its lifetime, I tear down engines every day and it's been years since I've seen a ridge at the top of a cylinder that's required a ridge cutter to remove the piston, cylinder and ring wear is virtually non existent in today's engines, I tear down engines with hundreds of thousands of miles and you can still see traces of the factory cross hatching on the cylinder walls, 40 years ago when I'd tear down an engine with 60,000 miles on it there wouldn't be any cross hatching left and there'd be a ridge at the top of the cylinder, the tool companies probably can't even sell ridge cutters anymore because no one needs them. Putting that nonsense snake oil in your gas for the sake of top end wear is cutting your nose off to spite your face, and you're fooling yourself believing you have proof of anything anyway, you can't do/change two things at once and look at results from tests, you have no "controls" over your testing and results, tests must be done with only one thing changed at a time. Once again leave what's in your gasoline to the people who make it, they know best, all oil and gas additives are snake oil.
I just did an oil change with VRP on my daughter's 2010 Honda CRV with over 215,000 miles on it. Can't wait to see the results after I change it again.
Might want to keep an eye on the dipstick and change oil and filter when it gets dark. On the first video, a guy said he’d been changing his oil every 3,000 miles and switched to R&P and it clogged his filter near the end of the first change and took about 3 changes to get the engine clean. The same guy later posted that he had a sudden drop in oil pressure and found the pickup tube screen blocked.
A relief for owners that have the recent Direct Injection Engines, whose lower ring grooves can get build-up. We have a way out to maintain our engines past 150k miles.
2009 Mazda tribute 3.0l V6 that ol ford duratech engine with 209,817 miles. 5k miles ago I did a compression check Cyl1-5 @ 120psi Cyl6 had 90psi. Soaked 6 with seafoam for 2 days clean it out. Drained oil and loaded up with new R&P 5w-20. This Sunday oil change time re-did compression check after an interval with R&P and surprising to see that all cyl1-6 were equal at 130psi. Engine did feel happier so I will say this oil did some work. Loaded up with a second round of R&P not sure what I expect to see but will redo my steps again next interval.
My mothers Audi A4 1.8turbo gas engine with 125k miles used 1 quart per 800 miles. Horrible, but running this oil (5w30) for a short time of 2k miles, she needed no oil top off. Amazing! Even for a gearhead mechanic like me. I switched most of my oil burning customers to this killer stuff . Great video. Keep up the excellent content. 🎉
@wrathofpaulii it was in limo fleet service almost all its life, I doubt it's the original engine. If I had to guess it's probably had a couple engines and transmissions in it's life
Im 53 and i been using valvoline for 30 years due to groundbreaking high mileage oil never any issues. On second oil change 2012 accord 2.4 with 86000 miles and first on 2022 rdx. However the rdx has 11700 miles more for preventive maintenance.
I've got 10,000 mi two oil changes at 5K each on restore and protect. I haven't done any used oil analysis but I can tell you underneath my oil fill cap. Looking into my valve cover. My engine looks much cleaner than before.
We're on our 2nd/3rd oil change with Valvoline Synthetic Restore and Protect 5w30 in our 2012 GMC Acadia. I am definitely impressed with not only the engines performance considering we bought the Acadia with only 25K miles on the odometer, the engine is quieter and performs better. Considering the engine is a Direct Injection dohc 3.6L V6, I definitely will continue to use VRP for the duration of our ownership of this vehicle. Thank you Lake for your assessment and analyzing of VRP. Most definitely put the Valvoline restore and protect in your daughter's Corolla. Happy Thanksgiving and Godspeed! 🦃✝️
This oil is the real deal. I own a Honda Accord 2012 with 175k miles and I just started using this oil. First thing I noticed was no hesitation at all ( Im super surprised because i have never feel my car this responsive before). Engine run more smoother. I declare myself a valvoline customer for life !!
@Oil Geek Guy , I recently went to my Valvoline distributor here in Canada and asked for the R&P , he looked at me like I spat out a Chicken. He had No Idea of the product at all , so I was extremely disappointed as I know this stuff works so well , many testimonies out there on this product... love your Videos too. Cheers from the great white North🇨🇦
Ps: “LOCAL VALVOLINE QUIK CHANGE Store , “does * NOT * have VALVOLINE R&P either, as of last week ( DEC 20,2024), strange: though I,just used my Mechanic at POINT S, HELENA MT! ( though they use routinely, VALVOLINE oil *& VALVOLINE Filters, and NAPA does has two Grades VRP**QTS / 5L,5 w-20, & 5 W-30……..etc)……actually, I AM about as under -Merchandised as Canada , perhaps ……….at least **HELENA , Boulder,etc…ps: in both of my Vehicles now!!( ** AND , I WILL be changing out To new PUROLATOR BOSS OIL Filters about 500 miles/after JAN 21, 2025……etc.
I was one of those people who bemoaned Toyota's cartridge oil filters but, now that Toyota is going back to spin-on metal canister filters, I realize the error of my ways. Cartridge filters offer immediate inspection and more consistent quality because the filtering ability doesn't rely on the canister construction quality. Sure, a quick-lube employee with a two-foot ratchet can reef the housing on, but all the more reason not to go to quick-lube places.
Lake, this channel has been awesome in helping us everyday drivers take better care of our cars. Thank you for doing what you are doing. Gobsmacked by this result. I have 225K on my car. I know there has to be oil deposits on the inside of my engine. I will use this oil to see how it works in my car and hopefully make this engine go to 300K!
I used this on a friends Tahoe, that at 220k had developed a loud tick/knock. When he checked his oil it was several quarts down. I put R&P in hoping that if it was a clogged lifter not pumping up, it might help. The noise only got louder. I cut the oil filter open and didn't see any metal, so I told him to go ahead and drive it short trips. In less than 20 miles the noise went away. Pretty amazing. I'm also using it in my own Mountaineer with the 4.6 3v engine. I'm hoping to ward off any valve phase tensioner problems. I've been using Mobil 1 extended or Pennzoil Platinum, it may be psychosomatic, but it seems to be running smoother.
I'm sold on it as well. I'm running it in my Tuscan hybrid. My fuel economy increased by over 3 mpg. I thought I was imagining it, but it's been consistent even with it getting colder which used to tank my fuel mpg on the highway.
This oil absolutely works! It got rid of a lifter tick in my barn find 96 Silverado I recently got with just 98K miles. I previously tried Seafoam, Marvel, ATF and a couple engine flushes with no results. Restore & Protect fixed the lifter tick after just 300 miles, I absolutely wouldn’t believe it unless I experienced it.
I’m using VRP 5W-30 in my 2012 Volvo XC60 (3.2L SI6) and it has smoothed and cleaned that engine out incredibly well. This will probably be the only oil I ever use from here on out.
I'm watching it work on my sisters 2013 Hyundai 1.6 engine. I can see more and more of the sludge flaking off the oil fill tube every few weeks when I check the oil.
@@silvercommanderno it really does clean. I just put in my 11 year old explorer and it’s already cleaned the stick off along with the bottom of the oil cap.
I just bought a used 2013 4Runner off the original owner. Has only 106k miles on it. But I put this restore and protect in it based off your video from at the manufacture when I did the first oil change in my ownership and I swear the engine is quieter now.
I am at the end of my first oil change using this oil. I'm about to do my second run with this stuff next week. I am using it in a new Reman engine that I bought 18 months ago that has 20k miles on it now. I swapped to Restore and Protect about 6 months ago. I also swapped to Purolator Boss oil filter at the same time, and I intend to keep using both together.
Seriously, These videos have convinced me to switch to the valvoline restore and protect oil, the next time I do an oil change ( and every changer after, unless they release something even better, between changes ). I have a Subaru Crosstrek with about 140k miles, and I'm burning a little bit of oil. Especially on start up, can see a cloud of blue smoke. And I've had to add about 2 or 3 full quarts of oil in the past 1 - 1.5 years. The oil burning seems to have slowed down. But switching to a better oil can't hurt. Plus, I REALLY like this vehicle. So anything to help it last longer is a positive for me.
Nice. Doing the same 'experiment' on my 2013 highlander with 186000 miles since I saw your original video on this oil. Will be sending that in for analysis as OCI is coming up for the first use with it.
I also have a 1mz-fe with 235k in it. I’m 2,000 miles into my first r&p oil change gonna do st least 3 changes every 5 k miles to try to slow the burning it has. So far still burning oil…had to add about a quart after those 2k miles but still early in the experiment
Because of your previous video on Restore&Protect I put it in my 120k mile N52 powered 2007 BMW Z4. This engine is notorious for oil consumption and lifter noise. My car exhibited both. I put in the R&P and did 10k miles on it. Oil consumption reduced very noticeably and more importantly the lifter tick completely went away even at 10k miles on the oil.. this stuff works! If you have an N52 powered car I HIGHLY recommend you try this oil! Thank you so much for this info!
Thanks for the comment. I have the same engine N52b25 2007 with the same oil burning problem due to faulty piston design. Mine burns 1 quart per 2500 miles. How much was yours burning? By the way, the N52 requires 5000 miles oil change interval. 10k is too much. I suggest you benefit fully from Valvoline RP by doing 3 more oil changes, each after 3000K miles only.
I have used Val online restore 3 times so far for 3-4K miles intervals in my Audi A6 with 190k miles. Don’t know if it works but I took Lakes word for it. I will run this car into the found and when I do, I will pull the pistons.
Yeah, I've already asked some Valvoline distrubutor here in Europe to ask why this lineup is not present here? There are lots of cars with the same issue here.
It's such a relief to have a product like this out there. I've used BG's products for years to clean and prevent engine sludge and deal oil consumption issues. Having an oil on the market that does it on it's own is a game changer.
I just found your channel. I'm an old BITOG forum member, and I still swear by a polyol ester-based oil like Redline for its innate cleaning abilities. I love Redline. The fact it doesn't burn on the ring lands makes it the best IMO.
Great vid Lake! Just wanted to mention that your daughter's Corolla takes 0w8/0w16. I don't believe they have restore and protect in those viscosities just yet. 0w20 is the lightest grade they make currently from what I understand.
I'm a huge fan of thicker oils so I'll be watching to see if Lake runs the 0w20 in his daughters corolla. I'm pretty sure he would do it. I'm a little surprised he wasn't using 5w30 in his van though. Obviously he knows way more about this stuff than I do so I love to watch and learn.
Been running the R&P oil in my wd21 pathfinder for a few thousand miles and I did my valve cover gasket on the passenger side of the original 237k mi VG30i and it was shocking how clean the upper valve train is looking.
VRP stopped my engine oil burning issue on my landrover LR3. One cylinder had low compression before startup but normal compression after startup. VRP raised the compression and now it maintains compression. This is on one cycle of VRP. Edit: LR3 has 250k miles on it. It was buring about a little less than a quart every 1500 miles.
I have used Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 on my porsche 997.1 the last 10 years, passing 122000 miles, oil analysis are consistent and spotless, my number 1 oil brand on all my cars
I just put the Restore and Protect in mistress's Honda Crosstour. She works about 5 miles away and she does not drive far enough in winter to properly heat the oil and her engine has varnish as a result even using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum changed every 3,000 miles. She is also getting moisture on the filler cap. I told her she needs to take a longer drive somewhere every week to remove moisture. After a few hundred miles the oil still looks clean and the looking through the oil filler hole I don't see a difference yet. Probably the oil needs a higher oil temperature promote cleaning then it has been seeing. I wonder if cold winter temperatures reduce the cleaning efficiency, if so they should note it on the oil container.
I would be interested to hear how many longer trips it takes each week in winter. All of my cars are driven more miles, but I have friends who drive less and all I can say is every week they need to take it further (like 10 miles). I don't really know if that is often enough.
Don't hold it against me, but you really don't want your wife to take frequent longer drives, she might meet somebody ;), rather let her destroy her car before time.
@williamrizzo1285 did you do the full hardware delete or just software? I was looking into doing it but that's alot of money to do the full complete delete
I love the fact you have the lab ability to look at average wear for a brand and viscosity... would love to see that on a chart with the major brands...
I have a 350k mile 06 Sienna. I'm on my 2nd oil change with Valvoline Restore and Protect. The van runs great but it has a significant amount of oil blow by caught by the oil catch can. Hopefully this will bake a difference as I continue to use it every 5k miles.
I have 173k miles on my 2000 Miata, and I’m about 300 miles into my first round! Every single video I’ve seen about this has been positive. I’m excited to get my old canyon carver back to tip top shape.
2011 toyota sequoia with 255k was burning 2qts every 3k miles, after 3 3k inteval changes of restore and protect it doesnt burn a drop. I am 100% sold.
Been waiting for your update on this oil. You're the only one going in depth for us all. I currently have 0w20 VALVOLINE R&P in my 2012 corolla. So far the car drives great and in the winter time it warms up quick. My engines not too dirty but I will be checking my samples every oil change.
I have a 2003 Camry with 235K miles. I put the restore and protect in it to see if I could extend the life of that engine. It has been consuming a quart of oil every 3K miles. I'm hoping the Valvoline will slow that consumption down by cleaning its rings. Wish me luck!
Thanks for the video. I did my break-in oil change and will be sending my sample for my 2024 Tundra. My plan was to twitch to Pennzoil ultra platinum but now you got me considering this Valvolne restore and protect. I would be interested in knowing how they match up head-to-head; wear durability etc.
Yessss! Been waiting on this video for months! I know miles take time to be put on, but im so glad its finally here because ive been waiting to try this on my truck till your video came out! Probably going to do it on my next oil change now, ill keep sending my oil in for sampling too!
Clearly VRP cleans more aggressively than other oils. The question is, is it too aggressive for long-term use? I have it in both my vehicles right now but I might go back to Pennzoil Platinum after a few OCIs
It most likely will, there’s no magic sauce that other manufacturers aren’t aware of. It just has more of the normal detergents that in large quantities can cause problems. if you are having some trouble with stuck rings or similar using it once or twice might be a good idea, but not over a long-term. In a new engine, it may even be detrimental. At the end of the day, Who cares if there’s some varnish buildup on the internal parts if it’s not causing any issues.
I also worry about it. It may cause rear main seal leak or deteriorate the valve stem seals. Who know? Nobody yet. I won’t use it yet until it’s fully verified.
@@star9732 Why would you say it just has more of the normal detergents rather than a proprietary cleaning compound as they claim ? Which detergents cause problems ? Lake has noted that there are tests for seal compatibility that it had to pass for certification.
I just bought a used 2015 Subaru Impreza Sport with 112k on it. When it came to do my second oil change your video popped up about this oil so i used it because who knows what the previous owner was doing lol. Good to see it seems to be working as intended and ill use this for the next few changes! Thanks for the work sir!
Ive been using valvoline on my truck only and sent an oil sample in out of curiosity. Valvoline 0w-20 at 5k miles of runtime has a lot of molybendum in it. (About 274 parts per million in my sample). More than most oil brands out there. Cant wait to send out my next oil sample and see if theres any changes.
Im "geeked" about trying this oil in a used vehicle we recently purchased for my daughter in college. We bought a 2009 2.4L pontiac vibe (which has the infamous Toyota oil consumption engine). I believe the culprit is those low tension rings, coupled with deposits. The car currently has about 164000 miles. Since Sept, I am calculating "consumption" at about one quart per 1000 miles, on the original supertech synthetic that i initially installed. Since she is usually away at college, I have had to show her how to keep close tabs on her oil. Even though there is only about 3500 miles on the supertech, I plan on installing this Restore and Protect, in the coming weeks. In fact, I have already purchased it. My goal is to hopefully reduce or eliminate the consumption rate. Based on everyone's review, I have recently installed it in my own 2010 Nissan Altima and my sons older impala. Neither of those vehicles burn oil but it can't hurt to clean up higher mileage vehicles. I plan on installing it in my wife's newer 2.0L turbo equinox too, in the future. In the past, I have mostly used Mobil 1 synthetic and (more recently), supertech, on our vehicles. Always couple them with a quality filter too.
Few if any Toyota dealers use Toyota oil in their service bays. They sell it in over the counter their parts department, but customers get who-knows-what bulk oil for their oil changes.
Because he has actually *tested* that the oil can do that based on his driving conditions. 10K oil change intervals are fine for people who live in mild climates and do primarily highway driving. 5K oil changes are for people who live in the city and/or cold climates. I change my oil every 3K. But that is primarily because my car is used in the city *only* and I live in a cold climate. The engine in my vehicle get's significantly more thrashing because of the constant stopping and starting.
Advance Auto is running sale right now. If you buy a 5 quart jug you get a free filter (any brand). AA is a bit pricey compared to Walmart, but the free filter makes it a great deal. I think the sale ends 12/4
@@shakerman55 I have two Walmarts near me. They have all the common grades, but 0W/20 is nearly always OOS. What does that tell you about these new emission standards and looser fighting piston rings…
I just completed my first oil change with the Valvoline Restore and Protect in my 2002 Expedition with 198k miles. I only put in 1000 miles since I did my first round of Valvoline R&P, about 6 months ago, but also the vehicle did a lot of idling while I repaired other things. Just took apart the motorcraft filter with metal sheers (a royal pain in the arse 😅) and noticed each of the folds was covered in black chunky particles, not sure if this is the cleaning action or regular filter operation. Took pictures of it real close, wish I could send them to you to check out the potential cleaning work it is already doing in my engine. Oh and by the way, my dipstick is shiny clean, like new!!! Couldn’t believe it but after seeing your video last night, that’s the first thing I checked this morning!
@@themotoroilgeekdefinitely does! Since you know a lot about the topic and have insiders at Valvoline, could you find out if this is suitable for GM engines? I was thinking of using it in my ‘23 Tahoe when I first learned of the product; sold it last weekend and waiting on a 2025 Suburban I ordered, wondering if I can stick to this product for it. 😅
Very impressive results Nice to see a Product that in the real words does what it says and matches the manufactures in house testing nice work as always Lake 9:00 @The Motor Oil Geek
Thank you for doing this, Lake! It's always just been about impossible to know as consumers what was marketing fluff and what was actual innovation, and it's amazing that we can now share all of this information, get some test results, and really know what's going on. I was going to go Penzoil in my 150k mile G35, but now I'm really thinking that I should give the Valvoline R&P a try instead
You never looked at the dipstick since the last oil change? WOW. You must have a lot of faith in that 180,000 mile engine, that it won't burn or leak any oil...
I have the same vehicle with 150k miles and that engine doesn't measurable burn ANY oil. Same thing with the Toyota A25s in the other cars in my family fleet, they run so clean and are so easy on oil it's pointless to even check the oil tbh 😅
@@mrtickles5982 yeah I still check the oil on all my vehicles but the Toyotas in my family just don't consume any oil or have any leaks so it's just in case
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much for watching! Here are a few points of clarification based on the comments so far.
In regards to the Restore & Protect product itself, it is not for Diesel engines. For information about availability, I'd recommend contacting Valvoline directly (www.valvolineglobal.com/en/)
To see engine parts before and after a tear down, check out the original video: ruclips.net/video/kyyZDghgdCI/видео.html
As to the backstory on my wife's van. We bought it new in 2012, and it has only ever used Toyota Genuine 0W-20 (which is made by ExxonMobil, but is not the same formula as Mobil 1). We did the early oil changes just like I did with my daughter's Corolla: ruclips.net/video/_6nWCQ_70J0/видео.html. I worked for Joe Gibbs Racing when we purchased the van, and Toyota had a special deal for the team members at that time - lifetime powertrain warranty if all the service work was done at a Toyota dealership. That's the primary reason for the 10k oil change intervals, but the used oil analysis results never showed any wear issues or oil health issues going that far. There are no oil consumption issues with the engine, so the varnish is the only downside of that extended oil change interval (until the Restore and Protect fixed that).
And just in case you didn't watch the entire video, there are no sponsors on these videos. Neither Valvoline or any other oil companies pay me to make these videos. I choose to make videos about the products and topics that I find technically interesting based on my expertise and 20 years of industry experience. Also, I hope these videos provide value to you, the viewer.
I get it at Walmart online, and it's here within one to three days via a local contract courier. It's actually a lot cheaper than it is at any of the few other places I've seen it online, and almost absurdly cheaper than it is at the only store to recently begin carrying it out of the four big-name aftermarket parts stores in my area. I am not a fan of Walmart in many regards, but people who don't at least occasionally shop there are few and far between.
@@themotoroilgeek so what is the better oil Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Valvoline Restore and Protect?
@@XBX1MASTERboth are good, but I have not run a head to head durability between the two.
@ please do if you get the chance. I'm torn between the two. If the Valvoline synthetic is as robust as the gas to liquid then I may switch. Thanks for your time.
Does anything come for diesel engines ?? Also what is your thoughts on additive to clean the engine ?? Thanks for your time.
These results are very impressive. I'm thinking about drinking some for breakfast every morning.
Just pour it on your Wheaties 💪🏻 😂
Post the results, this should be interesting.
@@Tread1775 Be careful, look what it did to Bruce Jenner.
@@usocrazy6133 The results might have to be pictures that no one will want to see 😦
@@deere3321 True that, don't send a sample to Lake.
You mean you actually found a product that performs as advertised?
Seriously impressed......
Been drinking it for months. I now bench 500 lbs.
For real!
dude thats the ad
@@JohnTaylor-bd1uyinject it to lift 1,000 lbs
@@JohnTaylor-bd1uyjesus everyones drinking oil in the comments🤣
I’m a high mileage vehicle owner (x2) and love not having car payments. I really appreciate this content because anything that can help my older (but awesome) vehicles stay healthy longer is a huge win for me. Thank you so much Lake!
This one ☝️. Him and those like him make RUclips useful and great.
I enjoy old vehicles. I've had very good luck. 2006 F150 250,000 miles. 09 Camry 235,000. 97 RAV4 240,000. My wife gets spoiled 2019 VW Atlas 65,000 miles. No car payments in 22 years.
@@justincoats7236Your truck will be around long after that new VW.
And I thought I was spoiling myself buying a 2005 silverado with 235k miles. It drives like a dream compared to the 1983 chevy manual K30 dually I was daily driving. I still love hopping in the dually though. And any towing that needs done the silverado doesn't hold a candle to that old beast.
@@justincoats7236 What engine is in your f-150?
I saw your interview with the Valvoline team and decided to try it in my old 97 Civic with the D16Y7 engine. I was losing oil at a rate of a quart every 500 miles. After going through 3 changes so far I can nor go a 1000+ miles per quart loss! I am SOLD!
Thanks for sharing.
@staycurious3954 What about your MPG have you seen improvement?
How would cleaning gunk off of stuff slow oil consumption? If anything it seems the rings would get looser and allow more oil in the combustion chamber. There has to be a reason other than cleaning debris.
@@XBX1MASTER because the gummed up oil control rings don't function properly when all gummed up and stuck. Unstuck rings will function in a superior fashion. So yes, less consumption is reasonable.
@ oil control rings are just that. If they are clogged up it should allow less oil. Not adding up for me but thanks for the input.
I'm on my third 3k oil change with R & P on my 2005 Colorado cyl with 210k miles. Borescoped the internals and they are clean as a whistle. Cam chain noise on cold start is now gone. I'm impressed.
@@BakerStudiosIndy see mine above.. 2007 Canyon, 2015 Journey: VRP
My wife has about 180,000 miles on her 2017 CR-V. It was consuming about a quart per month which is about 2000 miles. I check the level and add oil every month. I just did the third change with Restore and Protect in the 0W20 weight and when I checked the dip stick recently I noticed the oil consumption has slowed. I need few more months to draw any firm conclusions, but the stuff does seem to work.
I have tried other methods to cleaner the rings in this engine before and non have worked.
I would not have used R&P without seeing it on this channel.
Between all the feedback and your testimony, I am planning to try this product. Out of curiosity, was 505CRF one of the products you tried? I've used it with notable improvements in reduced noise and smoother running. No idea on the specific internal cleanliness comparing before and after.
I am currently using R&P on my wifes crv also. But during a random oil change i used STP ceramic oil treatment( blue $12 15oz bottle) and guess what it hardly used any oil during the 4,000 mi before I changed it. Didn't use it next oil change and went right back to using oil about a qt per 1500mi. Doing the R&P for 3 changes to see if it helps if not I'm going to go back to Castrol edge and the stp.
I see what you did there Mr Fiat; it would seem you found the miracle answer to effortless sticky piston ring repair!
I've also used Yamalube Ring-free additive in the gas tank of all my cars (2002 Camry V6 w 204,000 miles, 2001 Solara V6 w 280,000, and my 2017 Lexus LS460 w 70,000 miles) for about a year now mostly as a preventative step. There are other such products, they all seem to cost about the same ($20-25 per 12 oz, 4 oz per dose). And if the additive is actually doing its job I'll probably never know the difference, which is the goal i think. But the Solara has 280,000 miles on it, didn't get maintained as well as the other two (3,000 vs 5,000 mile oil interval) and the only one that truly needs chemicals for de-sludging. That's the only one whose oil I changed to Valvoline R & P, and I guess I probably need to keep doing it.
I changed my CRV to Schaeffer's 5w20 and it stopped using oil
I believe this is the real deal finally. Sea-Foam will clean the lifters and rockers, but it seams to fall short of cleaning piston ring grooves. R&P seams to finish the job that other flushes could not ! 1998 Silverado 5.7 engine so quiet I thought my hearing had failed. Only time will tell will the rings fully unstick.
I tried VRP in my 2008 Honda CRV with 180,000 miles. After two thousand miles or so, the engine idle was noticeably smoother. I'm sold on this oil.
right there with you. have same car with basically same mileage and I can tell difference in idle and power. I'm sold as well
I have a 2011 with the looser rings (0W-20). This stuff made it stopped burning oil completely after it was burning 1q/1,500 miles. I noticed the piston slap dissipate almost immediately but my valves clatter like crazy. I’m overdue for a valve lashing 😅
Excellent! Lake, I put this in my 2012 Camry and noticed the mpg gauge begin to go up. I’ve changed my oil every 5k from Toyota dealerships since I've owned it but around 170k it would burn oil. Prior to VRP I was using Amsoil High Mileage, which is a great oil but it didn't increase my mpg as fast as the VRP and only after 300 miles of putting it in. So this product begins to work immediately. Can't wait for your comparison with Amsoil vs Valvoline Restore and Protect.
I've been using it in my 01 Ram 1500. Idle is smoother, less oil consumption, and I see the oil get darker in appearance earlier compared to Pennzoil and other Valvoline products. This indicates to me that Lake is correct - it is doing a great job of thoroughly dissolving deposits.
@@paulsmith5237Since you're noticing it (VRP) getting darker... Would you say it still has a slightly translucent/golden color or has it actually gone opaque/black?
Seen various videos of VRP Oil changes 3-5K miles where the Oil still has a relatively clear/golden appearance and not dirty/black...
Your findings at 7 minutes are HUGE because this is the premature wear that happens on modern Toyotas, the gunk that seizes the oil control rings. Amazing!!!
Camry v6 piston that is in many Toyotas and Lexuses, same piston even in the 1urfse 4.6 v8 engine and same issue. Diesel soak can get it out but this way looks less hassle...
Toyotas gunk up when you change the oil too late
@@jankington216 Toyota's and Honda's as well have too low of a vacuum in their PCV System and the Blowby accumulates in the ring pack. I found this with my Acura MDX. They went to Synthetic oil to raise the NOACK temp and this extends the problem out but any engine that has factory recommended 10K OCI's but the mechanics tell you 3k to 5k OCI's or you'll get stuck rings, this will probably be the problem.
They don't want to contaminate the intake and cylinders with the Blowby so they will build a Catch Can inside the engine and drop PCV vac to around -.2 to -.8inH2O. Most domestic still run 1 to 3inHg that I'm aware of. Hook a Manometer to your dipstick tube and run the hose to the drivers seat so you can monitor. 1inHg is 13.6inH2O, I don't doubt this oil does what it says but it's going around the problem in some engine. My neighbors Nissan Frontier is around -.9inH2O, still too low for good function. We'll see how this all plays out.
Look how low my wife's TL stays and sometimes under pressure(inH2O). I've corrected all of mine including a couple of Civics.
ruclips.net/video/0NmEvB2lFS0/видео.html
We have oils that are far better than 10 years ago but OCI's of 30 years ago, somethings wrong with that. Engines should commonly see 400-600K miles, my 10 MDX is at 290K+ and it's one of the highest mileage of the MDX'er forum.
I just switched to VRP for my last oil change, 2014 Toyota Tacoma, 4.0L V6. It's currently at 170,000 and I have been very diligent with all of my maintenance and religiously change my oil at 5,000 miles or less. I generally run Penzoil Platinum and don't use any oil. After about 1,500 miles on this change, it actually feels like it has better throttle response. I also got about 1 mpg better on a recent trip to my parents house. I'll run the next couple of oil changes with this oil and see how it does.
Same story here. 2010 rx350 with the Toyota 3.5 V6. Mpg is 5-10% better, idle is smoother and quieter, all while the car drives smoother and faster. I'm sold.
I’m currently using pennzoil ultra platinum in my 08 350z 170k miles but going to try the VRP this change
1 mpg on a trip has a lot of variables. Tail/head wind, tire inflation, fuel used… I’d be reluctant to attribute the oil.
Got a ‘12 taco 169k with restore and protect on the first run. Have about 2k on the oil and still looks amber on the stick, I agree that the engine is very happy on this oil. Thought at this point some cleaning would be taking place but not yet. Been running valvoline extended protection for 3 years before the switch. 5k oil changes as soon as the maintenance required light starts flashing.
@@Feckoff730 I did read valvoline recommends to use it about 4x to get 100% clean
Thank you for your work confirming valvolines claims! As I have commented before, no one beats valvoline for long. When someone 1 ups them, they go at it hard until they 1 up the 1 upper! When mobil1 came out, valvoline clapped back with their updated synpower synthetic within 8 months and blew mobil1 out of the water.
i agree. they are a go 2 brand. the only real difference between high mileage oil and regular is that high mileage oil has a little bit of stop leak in it, they call it seal conditioners. valvoline maxlife has the highest concentration, and highest quality seal conditioner. this formula has definatly outright stopped engine leaks for me in about 2 to 3 changes. though. i like castrol better because castrol is better in terms of lubrication. pennzoil has come a very long way since its problematic days, I think its synthetic formula gives the best lubrication and even protection for long intervals 6k changes and up without it stating that it is formulated for 10k mile oil changes. but hey valvoline has all the protection you need to get a full life out of any OEM engine. now that valvoline has an engine oil dedicated for cleaning engines to rival royal purples product at a lower price they are THE go to brand.
so your choice of oil used determined the internal cleanliness and thus required this new product. I notice valvolines doesnt lie as they use the oldest words in advertising " UP TO " so cleaning .oooo1 % would mean ...it works it really does !
Use amzoils best from the start and prob will not require this "up to" product.
I've used the VR&P for going on 20k miles in my 2016 Toyota Highlander. I used a borescope to look into the valvetrain before and now after and it looks brand new in there! Same with the dipstick. Very impressed with it and I'll continue to use it. I'm usually very skeptical of claims like this, but it's proven to me it works as advertised!
In my 2016 Volvo XC90 (which unfortunately has the narrower oil return rings) I was losing 1 quart per 1200 miles between 60K and 75K miles. Volvo wouldn't cover it unless it burned a quart per 600 miles. I ran Restore & Protect for 10K miles (changed twice at 5,000 miles each) and now I'm 2000 miles into my 3rd fill of R&P and my oil level is still 90 to 95% (just down a 2 or 3 ticks from the top). This saved me an engine rebuild.
I'm currently running this in my 2016 V60xc to hopefully slow consumption. Started using VRP at 85k miles burning about 1Qt / 2,000mi. Really hoping this stuff works!
@rickveldman1214 It definitely works. While there are some definite flaws with the oil ring size as well as the return holes in the piston (just behind the oil ring )being too small and too few, this stuff effectively cleans those out so it can at least be as it was when new. You might need to change your oil filter within 1000 to 2500 miles into the clean because a lot of sludge will be removed potentially clogging the filter. You can do this without replacing all the oil. You'll lose just a bit when taking out the filter. If you have a good scan tool, you can check the oil pressure before and after the change to get a good idea of the normal pressure range, then just replace the filter when it falls outside that range (too low)
I started using Valvoline restore and protect in my 390,000 mile cavalier just a month or so back after watching Lakes first video on the product, super glad he took it one step farther and brought to us this new video! Thank you so much Lake for doing what you do!
I'm considering using it in my 750K mile Yugo.
Never in my life would I have expected cavalier and 390,000 miles to be in the same sentence.
don't, grim and dirt is holding that poor engine at place, if you clean it it will start dripping oil from everywhere
awesome job keeping that Cav running!
Jesus get a new car, live a little lol 400k😮💨
Lake Speed maybe your most incredible video yet. Tried the first dose of the Valv R & P on my 2001 Solara with 280,000 and wasn't sure if I should put it in the next change, now I guess I will do it.
I don't believe anybody can give out any better wisdom nor more technically accurate advice on engine oil, than a qualified tribologist like you. I value your opinions 10 times as much as anybody else's on this platform.
Long comment follows:
I have always gone by 3 mo/3000 mile oil changes and that's because I've seen the good results for myself. A few years ago I decided to do an in-car overhaul of my old 1988 Nissan Z24 pickup w 190,000 miles. It needed a valve job but I decided I'd change the rings too, since the head was off, and I'd always wanted the challenge of doing it.
And after removing the pistons from the engine block, there was very little evidence of wear to be found: no cylinder wall scoring and no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder (which it is almost routine to find in neglected engines). I had bought a cylinder ridge-reamer but didn't need to use it since there was no ridge.
All the piston rings were relatively clean, none were sticking, and they all moved freely. All there was to clean off was a very light trace of hard deposits, probably carbon, in the ring grooves. Connecting rod bearings were like new so I just re-used them. And there was not a trace of sludge or varnish in the oil pan nor anywhere else. Even the oil pump pickup screen was spotless.
Seeing all that with my own eyes, on my own car, made me a true believer in 3,000 mile changes.
Thanks for the kind words and the comment. If 3,000 mile oil changes work for you, keep doing. I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do. I'm just here to provide info and let each person make their own decisions.
I know what you mean. My father ran the cheapest gas he could find on his 1970 Datsun Thai rebuilt at 200,000 miles he always used castrol GTX 20/50 changed every 3000 miles and never went over 4000 mile between changes. No ridge. I judt honed it. I had bought new main and rod bearings. Changed them but I was curious on the bearing wear. I plastigauged the bearing with the old bearings and they weee the same. I also expected all kinds of carbon buildup on the valves choking the flow like you used to see in the commercials for name brand fuel. There was none.
Remember this is on a carbureted car with a manual choke. He always warned it up for at least 2 to : minutes before driving it.
I have concerns over this oil in long term use on newer cars newer meaning 10 years or older. My concern is with the detergent being this strong to actually remove this baked on gunk having a hardening effect on the valve stem seals in a long term use.
I know they tested it in dump to simulate lots of miles but I know they have not tested this stuff for 10 years in time and not 10 year simulations
I use this in both our vehicles. My wife’s 2018 Elantra has 52k miles. No issues other than she went over 5,000 miles on a few occasions, and had some sludge buildup. My 2020 forte has 35k miles and has always had 4500 miles or less oil changes. The oil turned darker so much quicker than mine. I drove from NJ to SC and back and my oil still looked brand new. I changed both cars at 3k anyway since it was the 1st round of R&P and was concerned about the filter (along with everyone else on YT) lol. Neither filter was bad enough were I think it would have clogged if I went the full 5k. I love this stuff, our engines seem to love it. They’re both noticeably quieter. It’s almost time for oil change number 3. I’ll go five rounds with this and prob switch back to PUP
About had a heart attack when you put the dipstick on the battery! LOl.
🤣🤣
Glad I wasnt the only one! He's also using 0W08 I believe so that must have dripped off into the engine compartment somewhere!
Reminded me of when I was about eleven and dropped a 10" crescent wrench on the six volt battery in our Cub Cadet! It glowed!
@@mitral5333no, it's 0w-20
@@lylejohnston4125 my dad did the same when he was younger. The battery exploded.
I love your enthusiasm for tribology. Man, you talk my language. I resolved my oil consumption issue a year ago, but I still watch each week for your next Video. Keep up the great content. I sent a request to team behind my favourite podcast, Ologies, to interview you. You are a born science communicator trapped under a hood. I love it!
Hi, how did you fix oil consumption problem?
Yeah, how did you fix it?
Thank you!
I fixed my 2014 Audi's oil consumption by upgrading the pistons. The EA888 Gen 2 engine is prone to issues with low-tension oil control rings that carbon up and fail. Since this was a project car I bought at a great price, I chose the long-term fix: rebuilding the engine with updated pistons that address the flaw. It was worth it for me, as I had the skills, and other key components had been recently updated.
I also couldn’t try Restore and Protect 5W40 since I cannot get it in 5W40, but if it meets your car’s specs, it’s worth a shot-you have nothing to lose if you have oil bypassing the positions.
My questions for you:
1. What diagnostics have you done to narrow down the cause of your oil consumption? Have you done a compression test, inspected the pistons for oil wash, or checked the intake pipes and PCV system for oil buildup?
2. How many miles are on your car, what’s its oil change history, have you tried any products like Restore and Protect and was there any improvement, what value do you place on the car after repairing the issue?
3. Is your car/engine known for oil consumption issues, and what are the common causes?
Remember, oil consumption can have many causes. On some engines, it’s as simple as a bad PCV valve or a leaking turbo.
Let me know-I’m happy to help you troubleshoot before you try something. Remember, facts over speculation: Condition, Cause, Confirm, Correct.
Great video, My sister & Nephew both got replacement cars and I got this oil for them with an oem filter and told them to bring me their vehicle in 3-5,000 miles so I can replace the oil again. I took some photo's of the oil cap and fill hole with all the varnish as well as dipstick to see how they look after the first change.
I don't care who you are a friend of, but with your humble opinion, that is where it shines. Good job.
Thanks!
2005 Silverado,5.3LM7 280,000 MILES,Have been Restore&Protect for about 10,000 miles,3 oil changes,And it works,idles smoother,runs better.
The only thing holding my 1975 olds together were the oil change decals in the doorway all said Valvoline on them.
Your channel is very honest about oil claims as you are doing an objective real world tests, thank you for this channel.
Thank you!
You have access to something no one else does, mountains of real world data. You should create an entire series comparing the wear rate per 1,000 miles for every oil. Like an oil showdown. Use all the customer data to show which oils have the most and least wear. I think a lot of people would like to see the results!
Great idea!
Not needed. Why? Does ANY car ever end up in a wrecking yard because the owner made an oil brand mistake? Nope.
@ ok Karen
As an engineer I love your honest data driven analyses. My 2012, 130,000 mile Pilot dropped a cam belt. No valve damage but I had to have the heads skimmed. The tops of the pistons were covered with buildup so I manually cleaned off what I could. Based on your videos I'm now running my first VR&P. Only 1,000 miles in but I can report the engine is much quieter and smoother and my mpg has shot up North of 26 mpg on the freeway. I was at 22/23 before. My dipstick also looks brand new. I'm going to go to 5,000 and will scope a cylinder or two and examine the filter. So far I'm sold. I'll report back....Thanks!
Thanks for sharing!
I purchased a 1998 Lexus LS400 earlier this year with 158,000mi on it. I’ve always used Mobil 1, but switched to the restore & protect after seeing your last video on it. I saw the same thing on the dipstick after the first oil change, almost completely clean! Hats off to the engineers at Valvoline, it’s incredible stuff! I’m just hoping they’ll make a 5w-40 for the euro cars🙏
Damn, I need to try it I just bought a 2008 Nissan Armada with 180k miles it runs great it was built like a tank but I like years ago I know more about cars and maintenance
GS460 with moderate oil use (old owners went over a bit too much obviously), going to try restore and protect next time. The dipstick on this is clean though at just over 100k miles.
Would love to see a test between Penzoil Ultra platinum vs this Vavoline Restore and Protect.
What kind of test?
pennzoil is far superior protectant while R and P is far superior cleaning.
@@TonicofSonic link to data?? What metric is "far" ?
@@chestrockwell8328 a detergent cleaning test, since they both make bold claims. I belive penzoil protects better in its more uniform properties as it’s a cleaner base oil.
@@chestrockwell8328 My truck runs much quieter, and shows slightly less wear on Pennzoil Ultra platinum while the restore and Protect cleaned the engine in a way that Pennzoil could not ever hope to.
Pennzoil is superior protection. R and P is superior cleaning. Which makes sense if you think about it. What are the odds they made such a good cleaner that can also protect as well as the best? Or vise versa. I might believe it if it was a company like amsoil but this is valvoline we are talking about. They sell most their oil the way Jiffy lube used to sell oil.
Awesome stuff to hear. I'm running a test of this oil in a 1980s Briggs and Stratton 5HP flathead engine. Tore it down when I first bought it and put it back together without cleaning anything up. Changing the oil every 25 hours. Will be interesting to see what the inside looks like after 100 hours
Make a video and post it would love to see the results
I have been absolutely blown away by my results with Valvoline restore and protect. I have high mileage Subarus that call for 0w 20. I switched them to Valvoline restore and protect 5W30 and started using an upper engine lubricant, marvel mystery oil in every gas tank. Based on my results with speed diagnostics, I'm now achieving the lowest wear rate I have ever seen in any of my vehicles, 1.4 parts per million per 1,000 mi. This is the best results I've ever had and clear proof that not only is it cleaning my engine, but my process is protecting better than I've ever seen versus royal purple and isemitsu
Now quit putting that snake oil nonsense in your gas and and you'll do even better.
Like with the oil the chemists that developed the gasolines you use know exactly what should be in it, and here comes you along thinking you're smarter than them.
I'm a professional high performance engine builder with 40 years experience building racing engines, we go to great lengths machining the tops of valve stem guides to press on the latest modern seals to keep oil out of combustion chambers to eliminate detonation which is paramount for performance, nothing will cause detonation faster than oil inclusion in a combustion chamber, you're losing performance and mileage because your knock sensor is pulling timing out and richening your mixture, in an older non ECU type vehicle you'd hear detonation from putting oil in your gas, the very thing a performance engine builder goes to great lengths to eliminate and your actually mixing it in, serious face palm moment here.
Just like how Lake made a video about oil additives being snake oil nonsense that you should never use because the chemists who develop these oils know exactly what they're doing the same holds true for gasoline, the people who make it are very smart, don't go thinking you're smarter than they are.
@@dukecraig2402 clearly you haven't watched lakes upper engine lubricant discussions. I have data to back up. R&p without gasoline add = 1.9 ppm, with equals 1.4ppm just like lake said it would. (See his videos on gasoline additives. He was talking about shell v-power I believe, but we don't have any of those close.)
MMO is definitely not doing you or your car any favours. Use a proper fuel additive (with PEA) for cleaning, let the engine oil do the lubrication.
@@marstedt how do you explain the verifiable (done twice) lower wear results. We achieved lower engine wear with both Lucas and marvel upper engine lubricant in the fuel based on speed diagnostics analysis.
@@bjg6695
Here's the problem with your thinking, when's the last time you saw a car in traffic that was smoking? A long time ago, 40 years back you couldn't go into town without seeing at least one car that had oil smoke coming out of it's exhaust, now you MIGHT see that once a year, and it ain't gonna be from worn rings, a cracked one maybe but not worn out rings.
With all due respect to Lake when we're talking about what goes on inside a combustion chamber that's my field of expertise, he's concentrating on wear but at the same time ignoring other factors, you're losing mileage and performance worrying about something that just doesn't wear out anymore, rings are lasting the lifetime of these modern engines even for these people who don't take care of their engines the way they're supposed to, bearings and everything else is what goes out in today's engines, but not rings, long gone are the days of having to "re-ring" an engine during its lifetime, I tear down engines every day and it's been years since I've seen a ridge at the top of a cylinder that's required a ridge cutter to remove the piston, cylinder and ring wear is virtually non existent in today's engines, I tear down engines with hundreds of thousands of miles and you can still see traces of the factory cross hatching on the cylinder walls, 40 years ago when I'd tear down an engine with 60,000 miles on it there wouldn't be any cross hatching left and there'd be a ridge at the top of the cylinder, the tool companies probably can't even sell ridge cutters anymore because no one needs them.
Putting that nonsense snake oil in your gas for the sake of top end wear is cutting your nose off to spite your face, and you're fooling yourself believing you have proof of anything anyway, you can't do/change two things at once and look at results from tests, you have no "controls" over your testing and results, tests must be done with only one thing changed at a time.
Once again leave what's in your gasoline to the people who make it, they know best, all oil and gas additives are snake oil.
I just did an oil change with VRP on my daughter's 2010 Honda CRV with over 215,000 miles on it. Can't wait to see the results after I change it again.
You can wait
@jme214 ummmm....ok
Might want to keep an eye on the dipstick and change oil and filter when it gets dark. On the first video, a guy said he’d been changing his oil every 3,000 miles and switched to R&P and it clogged his filter near the end of the first change and took about 3 changes to get the engine clean. The same guy later posted that he had a sudden drop in oil pressure and found the pickup tube screen blocked.
A relief for owners that have the recent Direct Injection Engines, whose lower ring grooves can get build-up. We have a way out to maintain our engines past 150k miles.
2009 Mazda tribute 3.0l V6 that ol ford duratech engine with 209,817 miles. 5k miles ago I did a compression check Cyl1-5 @ 120psi Cyl6 had 90psi. Soaked 6 with seafoam for 2 days clean it out. Drained oil and loaded up with new R&P 5w-20. This Sunday oil change time re-did compression check after an interval with R&P and surprising to see that all cyl1-6 were equal at 130psi. Engine did feel happier so I will say this oil did some work. Loaded up with a second round of R&P not sure what I expect to see but will redo my steps again next interval.
My mothers Audi A4 1.8turbo gas engine with 125k miles used 1 quart per 800 miles. Horrible, but running this oil (5w30) for a short time of 2k miles, she needed no oil top off. Amazing! Even for a gearhead mechanic like me.
I switched most of my oil burning customers to this killer stuff . Great video. Keep up the excellent content. 🎉
Wow, thanks for sharing.
I put R&P in my 580k Lincoln Town Car after your last video about it, it's just about time for another change.
Those burn oil bad that high a mileage. That should be the perfect oil for it!
580k on the original engine? that's amazing
@wrathofpaulii it was in limo fleet service almost all its life, I doubt it's the original engine. If I had to guess it's probably had a couple engines and transmissions in it's life
@thegalli no those engines can last until 580k.
@wrathofpaulii normal for those engines. They were amazing beyond any others besides semi diesels.
This channel is my all-time favorite shop class
Im 53 and i been using valvoline for 30 years due to groundbreaking high mileage oil never any issues. On second oil change 2012 accord 2.4 with 86000 miles and first on 2022 rdx. However the rdx has 11700 miles more for preventive maintenance.
I've got 10,000 mi two oil changes at 5K each on restore and protect. I haven't done any used oil analysis but I can tell you underneath my oil fill cap. Looking into my valve cover. My engine looks much cleaner than before.
We're on our 2nd/3rd oil change with Valvoline Synthetic Restore and Protect 5w30 in our 2012 GMC Acadia. I am definitely impressed with not only the engines performance considering we bought the Acadia with only 25K miles on the odometer, the engine is quieter and performs better. Considering the engine is a Direct Injection dohc 3.6L V6, I definitely will continue to use VRP for the duration of our ownership of this vehicle. Thank you Lake for your assessment and analyzing of VRP. Most definitely put the Valvoline restore and protect in your daughter's Corolla. Happy Thanksgiving and Godspeed! 🦃✝️
This oil is the real deal. I own a Honda Accord 2012 with 175k miles and I just started using this oil. First thing I noticed was no hesitation at all ( Im super surprised because i have never feel my car this responsive before). Engine run more smoother.
I declare myself a valvoline customer for life !!
@Oil Geek Guy , I recently went to my Valvoline distributor here in Canada and asked for the R&P , he looked at me like I spat out a Chicken.
He had No Idea of the product at all , so I was extremely disappointed as I know this stuff works so well , many testimonies out there on this product... love your Videos too. Cheers from the great white North🇨🇦
Can you just order it online ?
Yep, that's Canada. Always shafted. That's the one thing I don't miss about living in Canada.
@goclunker super high gas prices and the 50 year old guy in charge goes to Taylor Swift concerts l
Ps: “LOCAL VALVOLINE QUIK CHANGE Store , “does * NOT * have VALVOLINE R&P either, as of last week ( DEC 20,2024), strange: though I,just used my Mechanic at POINT S, HELENA MT! ( though they use routinely, VALVOLINE oil *& VALVOLINE Filters, and NAPA does has two Grades VRP**QTS / 5L,5 w-20, & 5 W-30……..etc)……actually, I AM about as under -Merchandised as Canada , perhaps ……….at least **HELENA , Boulder,etc…ps: in both of my Vehicles now!!( ** AND , I WILL be changing out To new PUROLATOR BOSS OIL Filters about 500 miles/after JAN 21, 2025……etc.
I was one of those people who bemoaned Toyota's cartridge oil filters but, now that Toyota is going back to spin-on metal canister filters, I realize the error of my ways. Cartridge filters offer immediate inspection and more consistent quality because the filtering ability doesn't rely on the canister construction quality. Sure, a quick-lube employee with a two-foot ratchet can reef the housing on, but all the more reason not to go to quick-lube places.
Lake, this channel has been awesome in helping us everyday drivers take better care of our cars. Thank you for doing what you are doing.
Gobsmacked by this result. I have 225K on my car. I know there has to be oil deposits on the inside of my engine. I will use this oil to see how it works in my car and hopefully make this engine go to 300K!
NIce. I have 226k on an 06 Matrix. How often do you change the oil? Full synthetic?
I used this on a friends Tahoe, that at 220k had developed a loud tick/knock. When he checked his oil it was several quarts down. I put R&P in hoping that if it was a clogged lifter not pumping up, it might help. The noise only got louder. I cut the oil filter open and didn't see any metal, so I told him to go ahead and drive it short trips. In less than 20 miles the noise went away. Pretty amazing.
I'm also using it in my own Mountaineer with the 4.6 3v engine. I'm hoping to ward off any valve phase tensioner problems. I've been using Mobil 1 extended or Pennzoil Platinum, it may be psychosomatic, but it seems to be running smoother.
I'm sold on it as well. I'm running it in my Tuscan hybrid. My fuel economy increased by over 3 mpg. I thought I was imagining it, but it's been consistent even with it getting colder which used to tank my fuel mpg on the highway.
This oil absolutely works! It got rid of a lifter tick in my barn find 96 Silverado I recently got with just 98K miles. I previously tried Seafoam, Marvel, ATF and a couple engine flushes with no results. Restore & Protect fixed the lifter tick after just 300 miles, I absolutely wouldn’t believe it unless I experienced it.
I’m using VRP 5W-30 in my 2012 Volvo XC60 (3.2L SI6) and it has smoothed and cleaned that engine out incredibly well. This will probably be the only oil I ever use from here on out.
There goes Lake, sacrificing his wife's van for all of us!
Nice results, it'll be interesting to see what further analysis will come back as.
That dip stick cleaning is unbelievable.
Definitely unbelievable. Like fabricated.
I'm watching it work on my sisters 2013 Hyundai 1.6 engine. I can see more and more of the sludge flaking off the oil fill tube every few weeks when I check the oil.
Brake cleaner does that.
@@silvercommanderno it really does clean. I just put in my 11 year old explorer and it’s already cleaned the stick off along with the bottom of the oil cap.
@@NomenClature-o8s for real
I just bought a used 2013 4Runner off the original owner. Has only 106k miles on it. But I put this restore and protect in it based off your video from at the manufacture when I did the first oil change in my ownership and I swear the engine is quieter now.
Are you you going to continue running the Restore & Protect or is this just an application for the first oil change?
Just did my first oil change with it, glad to see the oil filter wasn't glogged, that was a concern
I am at the end of my first oil change using this oil. I'm about to do my second run with this stuff next week. I am using it in a new Reman engine that I bought 18 months ago that has 20k miles on it now. I swapped to Restore and Protect about 6 months ago. I also swapped to Purolator Boss oil filter at the same time, and I intend to keep using both together.
Boss is a good filter
Seriously, These videos have convinced me to switch to the valvoline restore and protect oil, the next time I do an oil change ( and every changer after, unless they release something even better, between changes ). I have a Subaru Crosstrek with about 140k miles, and I'm burning a little bit of oil. Especially on start up, can see a cloud of blue smoke. And I've had to add about 2 or 3 full quarts of oil in the past 1 - 1.5 years. The oil burning seems to have slowed down. But switching to a better oil can't hurt. Plus, I REALLY like this vehicle. So anything to help it last longer is a positive for me.
Nice. Doing the same 'experiment' on my 2013 highlander with 186000 miles since I saw your original video on this oil. Will be sending that in for analysis as OCI is coming up for the first use with it.
Right on!
I'm sold. It's going in my impeccably maintained '02 Toyota Highlander with 225k miles on the 1MZ-FE next oil change.
I used to have a Camry coupe with that engine. Such a smooth engine.
I also have a 1mz-fe with 235k in it. I’m 2,000 miles into my first r&p oil change gonna do st least 3 changes every 5 k miles to try to slow the burning it has. So far still burning oil…had to add about a quart after those 2k miles but still early in the experiment
@@remogaggi82 This might do it by freeing up those oil control rings.
Because of your previous video on Restore&Protect I put it in my 120k mile N52 powered 2007 BMW Z4. This engine is notorious for oil consumption and lifter noise. My car exhibited both. I put in the R&P and did 10k miles on it.
Oil consumption reduced very noticeably and more importantly the lifter tick completely went away even at 10k miles on the oil.. this stuff works!
If you have an N52 powered car I HIGHLY recommend you try this oil!
Thank you so much for this info!
Thanks for the comment.
I have the same engine N52b25 2007 with the same oil burning problem due to faulty piston design. Mine burns 1 quart per 2500 miles.
How much was yours burning?
By the way, the N52 requires 5000 miles oil change interval.
10k is too much.
I suggest you benefit fully from Valvoline RP by doing 3 more oil changes, each after 3000K miles only.
Just completed my first Restore and Protect oil change last month...thanks to you!
This so funny. This morning I bought 6 quarts of this same oil to put in my wife’s Sienna. Same color and year.
LOL, that's too funny!
I have used Val online restore 3 times so far for 3-4K miles intervals in my Audi A6 with 190k miles. Don’t know if it works but I took Lakes word for it. I will run this car into the found and when I do, I will pull the pistons.
I REALLY hope Valvoline makes Restore and Protect available for Euro vehicles and soon!
Same here..can't find it anywhere here
I need that for my diesel
@@psynurse They say not to run in a diesel...
Just use the 5W-30 version. It would be better than letting your oil control rings get plugged with sludge.
Yeah, I've already asked some Valvoline distrubutor here in Europe to ask why this lineup is not present here? There are lots of cars with the same issue here.
It's such a relief to have a product like this out there. I've used BG's products for years to clean and prevent engine sludge and deal oil consumption issues. Having an oil on the market that does it on it's own is a game changer.
I just found your channel. I'm an old BITOG forum member, and I still swear by a polyol ester-based oil like Redline for its innate cleaning abilities. I love Redline. The fact it doesn't burn on the ring lands makes it the best IMO.
Important rule: It is easier to keep your engine clean from the beginning than clean a dirty engine.
Boss any news about Amsoil SS test
He doesn't seem to want to go there. Even though A LOT of people have asked
Great vid Lake! Just wanted to mention that your daughter's Corolla takes 0w8/0w16. I don't believe they have restore and protect in those viscosities just yet. 0w20 is the lightest grade they make currently from what I understand.
I'm a huge fan of thicker oils so I'll be watching to see if Lake runs the 0w20 in his daughters corolla. I'm pretty sure he would do it. I'm a little surprised he wasn't using 5w30 in his van though. Obviously he knows way more about this stuff than I do so I love to watch and learn.
Been running the R&P oil in my wd21 pathfinder for a few thousand miles and I did my valve cover gasket on the passenger side of the original 237k mi VG30i and it was shocking how clean the upper valve train is looking.
VRP stopped my engine oil burning issue on my landrover LR3. One cylinder had low compression before startup but normal compression after startup. VRP raised the compression and now it maintains compression. This is on one cycle of VRP.
Edit: LR3 has 250k miles on it. It was buring about a little less than a quart every 1500 miles.
I have used Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 on my porsche 997.1 the last 10 years, passing 122000 miles, oil analysis are consistent and spotless, my number 1 oil brand on all my cars
You can’t go wrong with Valvoline anything changed regularly … you have a nice car! Synpower …. you’re in Australia right?
I just put the Restore and Protect in mistress's Honda Crosstour. She works about 5 miles away and she does not drive far enough in winter to properly heat the oil and her engine has varnish as a result even using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum changed every 3,000 miles. She is also getting moisture on the filler cap. I told her she needs to take a longer drive somewhere every week to remove moisture. After a few hundred miles the oil still looks clean and the looking through the oil filler hole I don't see a difference yet. Probably the oil needs a higher oil temperature promote cleaning then it has been seeing. I wonder if cold winter temperatures reduce the cleaning efficiency, if so they should note it on the oil container.
I would be interested to hear how many longer trips it takes each week in winter. All of my cars are driven more miles, but I have friends who drive less and all I can say is every week they need to take it further (like 10 miles). I don't really know if that is often enough.
Don't hold it against me, but you really don't want your wife to take frequent longer drives, she might meet somebody ;), rather let her destroy her car before time.
Take the car yourself drive it on the freeway 😉
Give it time. A few hundred miles is not enough to see any changes. At 1500 miles with mine it still looked really damn clean on the dipstick.
@@igorpotocnik7231 sounds like I need to give her a gas card.😁
Awesome results. I just put this oil in my 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3 with 70k on it. I've been using Valvoline for the last five years.
Many 5.3 owners would love to know if this helps or hurts the lifter situation for this engine.
I wish we could get him to comment directly on it
@hummervs3278 I deactivated the AFM at 40k
@@williamrizzo1285 Did you install a different camshaft and lifters.
I have seen a plug in deactivate device you can buy
@williamrizzo1285 did you do the full hardware delete or just software? I was looking into doing it but that's alot of money to do the full complete delete
I love the fact you have the lab ability to look at average wear for a brand and viscosity... would love to see that on a chart with the major brands...
I have a 350k mile 06 Sienna. I'm on my 2nd oil change with Valvoline Restore and Protect. The van runs great but it has a significant amount of oil blow by caught by the oil catch can. Hopefully this will bake a difference as I continue to use it every 5k miles.
I have 173k miles on my 2000 Miata, and I’m about 300 miles into my first round!
Every single video I’ve seen about this has been positive. I’m excited to get my old canyon carver back to tip top shape.
1:55 BMW owners: "Wtf is a dipstick"
😂
LOL
My 2014 328d still has one and all older ones
In a BMW the dipstick is usually right behind the steering wheel
@themotoroilgeek
Is there any reason Restore & Protect should Not be used in a BMW N54 turbo direct injected engine?
The headlights of your wife's car need some Restore & Protect, too! 😂🤭
LOL
@@themotoroilgeek I vouch for the Sylvania kit as tested on Project Farm. Used on three cars with good results.
@@MathewPollard-vj4uq +1 I also used it based on project farm. Three vehicles so far. That kit is awesome!
What about all those leaves under the hood?
@@robertslegers257 just leave them alone 😅
2011 toyota sequoia with 255k was burning 2qts every 3k miles, after 3 3k inteval changes of restore and protect it doesnt burn a drop. I am 100% sold.
Been waiting for your update on this oil. You're the only one going in depth for us all. I currently have 0w20 VALVOLINE R&P in my 2012 corolla. So far the car drives great and in the winter time it warms up quick. My engines not too dirty but I will be checking my samples every oil change.
Thank you!
0w20 oil in engines with higher mileage, look up the term oil dilution, especially with egr and dpf.
Suggest frequent oil services
They information you provide on your channel is outstanding, thank you for all you do.
Totally appreciate your scientific approach, methods and doggone good videos. Long-time fan!
Thanks!
I have a 2003 Camry with 235K miles. I put the restore and protect in it to see if I could extend the life of that engine. It has been consuming a quart of oil every 3K miles. I'm hoping the Valvoline will slow that consumption down by cleaning its rings. Wish me luck!
Thanks for the video. I did my break-in oil change and will be sending my sample for my 2024 Tundra. My plan was to twitch to Pennzoil ultra platinum but now you got me considering this Valvolne restore and protect. I would be interested in knowing how they match up head-to-head; wear durability etc.
I’m glad the video was helpful. Either oil will do a good job.
Yessss! Been waiting on this video for months! I know miles take time to be put on, but im so glad its finally here because ive been waiting to try this on my truck till your video came out! Probably going to do it on my next oil change now, ill keep sending my oil in for sampling too!
Clearly VRP cleans more aggressively than other oils. The question is, is it too aggressive for long-term use? I have it in both my vehicles right now but I might go back to Pennzoil Platinum after a few OCIs
The detergent package is comparable to other high mileage oils, it’s the proprietary additives that work the extra magic.
I think that's why they market the "Protect" as well. It's not just a "cleaner" oil. It's capable of excellent wear protection simultaneously.
Is it better than liqui moly d-v
Wondering if these cleaning solvents in the oil will deteriorate seals and modern wet belts (oil pump/timing belts) faster
It most likely will, there’s no magic sauce that other manufacturers aren’t aware of. It just has more of the normal detergents that in large quantities can cause problems. if you are having some trouble with stuck rings or similar using it once or twice might be a good idea, but not over a long-term. In a new engine, it may even be detrimental. At the end of the day, Who cares if there’s some varnish buildup on the internal parts if it’s not causing any issues.
@@star9732 uoa’s/voa show that it doesn’t have more detergents unless it’s something you cannot see on the uoa
I also worry about it. It may cause rear main seal leak or deteriorate the valve stem seals. Who know? Nobody yet. I won’t use it yet until it’s fully verified.
was wondering the same thing. My son's Corolla has 250K on it. I use Mobil1 High Mileage on that along with three other Toyotas with around 150K.
@@star9732 Why would you say it just has more of the normal detergents rather than a proprietary cleaning compound as they claim ? Which detergents cause problems ? Lake has noted that there are tests for seal compatibility that it had to pass for certification.
I just bought a used 2015 Subaru Impreza Sport with 112k on it. When it came to do my second oil change your video popped up about this oil so i used it because who knows what the previous owner was doing lol. Good to see it seems to be working as intended and ill use this for the next few changes! Thanks for the work sir!
Cured two engines of oil consumption for me now; a k24 in a crv and fb20 Impreza ❤love the stuff
Ive been using valvoline on my truck only and sent an oil sample in out of curiosity. Valvoline 0w-20 at 5k miles of runtime has a lot of molybendum in it. (About 274 parts per million in my sample). More than most oil brands out there. Cant wait to send out my next oil sample and see if theres any changes.
Im "geeked" about trying this oil in a used vehicle we recently purchased for my daughter in college. We bought a 2009 2.4L pontiac vibe (which has the infamous Toyota oil consumption engine). I believe the culprit is those low tension rings, coupled with deposits. The car currently has about 164000 miles. Since Sept, I am calculating "consumption" at about one quart per 1000 miles, on the original supertech synthetic that i initially installed. Since she is usually away at college, I have had to show her how to keep close tabs on her oil. Even though there is only about 3500 miles on the supertech, I plan on installing this Restore and Protect, in the coming weeks. In fact, I have already purchased it. My goal is to hopefully reduce or eliminate the consumption rate. Based on everyone's review, I have recently installed it in my own 2010 Nissan Altima and my sons older impala. Neither of those vehicles burn oil but it can't hurt to clean up higher mileage vehicles. I plan on installing it in my wife's newer 2.0L turbo equinox too, in the future. In the past, I have mostly used Mobil 1 synthetic and (more recently), supertech, on our vehicles. Always couple them with a quality filter too.
I would toss a Pcv Valve at it as well. I have seen quite a few of those cause oil burning
@mph5896 i actually replaced the PCV about a month ago. Didn't help with the consumption but it didn't hurt to replace it.
Can't believe you were letting the wife's van go 10,000 miles between oil changes from the Toyota dealer with OEM oil!
I know right? Seems out of character
Data is driving his decisions.
Few if any Toyota dealers use Toyota oil in their service bays. They sell it in over the counter their parts department, but customers get who-knows-what bulk oil for their oil changes.
Because he has actually *tested* that the oil can do that based on his driving conditions.
10K oil change intervals are fine for people who live in mild climates and do primarily highway driving.
5K oil changes are for people who live in the city and/or cold climates.
I change my oil every 3K. But that is primarily because my car is used in the city *only* and I live in a cold climate. The engine in my vehicle get's significantly more thrashing because of the constant stopping and starting.
One thing I know from being married for 42 years, don't tell mama what to do with her car!!
Looks good! I wonder if we can find this in the box stores anytime soon, i haven't been able to find it
My Walmart has it in stock. They will probably roll it out in most of them next year.
Got mine from WallyWorld in MI. Had a "NEW" sticker on the jugs.
5W30 and 0W20
Advance Auto is running sale right now. If you buy a 5 quart jug you get a free filter (any brand). AA is a bit pricey compared to Walmart, but the free filter makes it a great deal. I think the sale ends 12/4
@@shakerman55 I have two Walmarts near me. They have all the common grades, but 0W/20 is nearly always OOS. What does that tell you about these new emission standards and looser fighting piston rings…
@@mhagnemae5202 they are not looser, they are thinner. if anything they're tighter.
That's awesome. Gonna throw this in my daughter's higher mileage car for the next few oil changes and see for myself!
I just completed my first oil change with the Valvoline Restore and Protect in my 2002 Expedition with 198k miles. I only put in 1000 miles since I did my first round of Valvoline R&P, about 6 months ago, but also the vehicle did a lot of idling while I repaired other things.
Just took apart the motorcraft filter with metal sheers (a royal pain in the arse 😅) and noticed each of the folds was covered in black chunky particles, not sure if this is the cleaning action or regular filter operation. Took pictures of it real close, wish I could send them to you to check out the potential cleaning work it is already doing in my engine. Oh and by the way, my dipstick is shiny clean, like new!!! Couldn’t believe it but after seeing your video last night, that’s the first thing I checked this morning!
That stuff cleans!
@@themotoroilgeekdefinitely does! Since you know a lot about the topic and have insiders at Valvoline, could you find out if this is suitable for GM engines? I was thinking of using it in my ‘23 Tahoe when I first learned of the product; sold it last weekend and waiting on a 2025 Suburban I ordered, wondering if I can stick to this product for it. 😅
@@unkhammunankh7252it is fine to use in GM engines.
Great video! Using this in my 5.7 Tundra currently!
How is it going so far?
@ it works well! I manage a fleet and I am going to switch our gas engines to this.
@@jordanhannah5839 what has changed? Mpg? Engine noise? U use 0w20?
@@jasonc3pouse 5W30, engine noise is slightly quieter. Dipstick is now spotless as noted in this video. Use with OEM filter.
Science plus results... excellent!
Thanks!
Very impressive results Nice to see a Product that in the real words does what it says and matches the manufactures in house testing nice work as always Lake 9:00 @The Motor Oil Geek
Thank you!
@@themotoroilgeekis this oil better than liqui moly?
@@wakaflockaproject Yep. We don't see anything special results-wise with LiquiMoly.
@@themotoroilgeek my car recommends 0w-20 but I have noticed it burns some oil. Would it be okay to run 0w-30 or 5w-30?
Thank you for doing this, Lake! It's always just been about impossible to know as consumers what was marketing fluff and what was actual innovation, and it's amazing that we can now share all of this information, get some test results, and really know what's going on.
I was going to go Penzoil in my 150k mile G35, but now I'm really thinking that I should give the Valvoline R&P a try instead
The intro is epic he says "the valvoline restore a protek" in a raspy cowboy voice then continues like normal
You never looked at the dipstick since the last oil change? WOW. You must have a lot of faith in that 180,000 mile engine, that it won't burn or leak any oil...
I have the same vehicle with 150k miles and that engine doesn't measurable burn ANY oil. Same thing with the Toyota A25s in the other cars in my family fleet, they run so clean and are so easy on oil it's pointless to even check the oil tbh 😅
I have a 300,000 mile om646 and I don't check the oil between changes either 😅 for giggles I sometimes check before the oil change and the level is ok
@@mrtickles5982 yeah I still check the oil on all my vehicles but the Toyotas in my family just don't consume any oil or have any leaks so it's just in case
@@ZWortek None of my high mileage Toyotas have ever burned oil. YMMV - Old Hondas and Nissans in my fleet have had moderate usage.
7:56 I wonder which car made 1,500.433 miles.
*I can't wait to see the Corolla results!_*
We need a valve cover removed “before and after” to see how it does with sludge please!
Awesome work!