My 2011 toyota sequoia was burning 1.5 qts in 3k miles after 3 rounds of restore amd protect at 3k inervals it now doesnt burn a drop. I am a believer.
Humm... I was very skeptical until I saw videos to confirm it works...maybe I should give it a try? My 07' Civic Si burns about 1/2 to 1 Quart every 5K. Car has 291K. I normally use Valvoline Max Life High Mileage 5w/30 Syn Blend.
I worked for Donaldson for over a decade and they are the real deal in filter manufacturing. LOTS of R&D and testing goes into everything they produce. They also supply many of the high end brand filters as well as many of the OEMs.
I put this in my 2018 transit 150 with the 3.5 eco-boost. I just started to get a startup cam phaser rattle at 110,000 miles. After two days with the restore protect the noise is gone and has not returned in a month, I am sold on this stuff. My engine was super clean already from using Pennzoil synthetic every 5000 miles.
@@sixsixST2 so oil flow has nothing to do with cam phaser operation? It seems like most of their operation is controlled through hydraulic oil pressure.
my two "go to" oils are either pennzoil ultra platinum or valvoline advanced full synthetic, ill get whichever one i can find cheaper when i need oil. i think theyre both the best for the price unless you wanna spend an arm and a leg for amsoil
I've run two oil changes with Restore and protect in my VW Atlas V6 and its cleaned amazingly. Right in the fill port there is a little screw that had varnish on it and its completely gone. Peering into the engine reveals a like new appearance with 84k miles.
@@coldjello8436yes but generally, the European spec is just for long drain intervals. He could run this for short oil intervals and then once the engine is cleaned back up, move back to the European spec.
@@coldjello8436 VW specs are not that amazing. They are just formulated for long drain intervals and anti-soot. Restore and protect is perfectly fine for a 4-5k interval which is what I do.
Running it with my wife’s VR6 Passat with 120k miles for 2 oil changes now. Totaling 10k miles. Seems to be working at cleaning slug etc. I started 5k services around 75k
less oil in the catch can means the base oil is either not getting as hot, or is more resistant to boiling at the same tempratures. Usually better base oils show these properties, as described in NOACK testing.
This is just the video I've been waiting for. Thanks for doing this. Im due for an oil change, been using Valvoline Advanced for over a few years, now im hoing to Restore and Protect.
been using this in my 2013 scion tc for the past 10k miles. ive got 198k on the motor. pulled the valve cover last month to do a new seal kit. was amazed at how clean the inside was.
@@FordBossMeGreat video. Usually I will fill the oil filter 50% with oil so the media is wet when I crank engine. You mentioned in another video you were in the military, what was your MOS / career field ? Get ready for a crazy 2025....
@@wilmerherrera8722I’m putting it into wife’s 13 Pilot this weekend. Has 120k miles with up to snuff maintenance so just doing it for precautionary fun 🤩 Been using in my kids 06 Lexus GS 300 DI only with carbon issues with good results so far. Same deal as here with going from lots of fuel smell in the oil to still there but way less and noticeable less oil consumption.
@@wilmerherrera8722 nice, I bought this car used and I think the oil changes were too long and the inside of the engine is not as good as my other car that I have had since new.
Hondas do need valve clearance adjustments to keep them from sounding like a typewriter. I switched to 5w-20 Restore and Protect in my 2011 Odyssey, instead of 0w-20, and it is quiter but I do need to adjust my valve lash (new gaskets are here on Tuesday so finally getting to it).
Dude, I verbally said out loud when I saw the funnel you were using "Whoa, what is that funnel???" LOL I literally just changed the oil in my 2015 5.0 an hour ago and told myself I need to find the magic funnel for this thing. Thanks!!!
It's good to see you giving SPEEDiagnostix a try for the oil analysis. I think Lake's reports go into more depth and are easier to interpret than Blackstone.
I am so glad you did this video, Rich. I was going to ask you why you used a bigger oil filter and you explained it well. Plus I was going to ask you if I could do the same thing with my 3.5 Ecoboost and you answered that, too. So thank you for that. I put this oil in my truck so I am eager to see what it looks like on my next oil change. I just recently put it in my 2018 Explorer to try it out. Keep you posted.
My Pennzoil Platinum oil keeps my engine clean. I currently use it in my 2015 Dodge Dart GT. I had a 2005 Mercury Sable, and if you looked through the oil cap at the engine, it was super clean. I might have to try this oil, though.
I threw some 0w40 platinum in my 6.0 powerstroke to see if it will reduce stiction throughout this winter So far: It was easier/cheaper than aquiring Valvoline Blue 5w40 (and at this point, I want to try 0w40's anyways) all the 5w40's still had stiction of some sort last winter. -Hot shots secret didn't seem to make a difference -Archoil didn't seem to make a difference -STP ceramic oil additive didn't improve the stiction Im moving on to stronger detergent base oils for 'varnish' at this point, although CENEX Maxtron Enviroedge 5w40 was interesting, even though it has a very very strong detergent package. Im starting to think between Pennzoil and Valvoline blue I might find the results im looking for, in 0w40's. If I can't get Valvoline blue in 0w40, ill get their euro spec 0w40. I wont run these oils much past 3k miles anyways because I like quiet injectors. After all this time, about 1500 miles into a new oil, the oil if I understand it changes. In the beginning of new oil changes, I get low oil temps where my coolant surpasses the oil in heat tempratures. In the middle of the oil change, the oil warms up faster than the coolant. I start thinking about oil changes when its above 12 degrees delta on the warm ups. And I can hear the difference as well. in fact I have a jar of archoil mixed in with some STP 5w40 and the oil sticks MORE than quaker state 5w40 with some Militec-1 gun oil. As I understand it, the castrol magnatec/royal purple synerlec/Militec-1's are in the gun oil familys of chlorinate/sulphated esters. Suppusedly people don't want chlorinated esters in their motors because its chlorine, it can make some funky chemicals. Pretty good at rust prevention tho. These experiments are fun.
Run this oil for the first time 5k miles ago i just changed it yesterday and i also have catch can on the 2013 sonata. The varnish and n the bottom on the can was crazy means it cleaned a lot of the engine. Car still burns oil on the 1k/1qrt range but will see how it goes. Few things improved: car is very responsive on the pedal and on the cruise, mpg went up 2-3 miles for now, and catch can has way less blowby. Before i had full catch can in 1k miles now 1/2 can in 5k. Drastically improved the blow-by and the oil was blacker than black when flushed. The mechanic even asked why oil is so black 🙂 overall great oil so far and i see results, expecting less oil bur in the future
I use the fl820 on my old obs ford trucks. My little v6 econoline van uses a fl1a same as my 99 ford ranger. Huge filter. Always thought it was funny/ strange
Love the video. Valvoline R&P is my go to oil for my cars. Just wanted to add that you don't necessarily always get more restriction with better filtering. The top end Fram synthetic filter not only filters better but has less restriction as well. It has to do with the way they design the synthetic fiber pattern. The Purolator Boss is the same.
@@g.simard854 The funny thing is that the Fram ultra synthetic has less surface area than the lower tier filters. The magic is in the filter media engineering.
R&P and Boss for me next oil change courtesy of the Adv’d Auto bundle 💪 I do have the Fram Ultra right now in my Civic and I won’t hesitate to use it again if I need to.
I've used penzz full syn 5 20 and ford filter since new in my 2014 5.0 f150 every 4000 km has 140,000 now only difference is at 100,000 km I switched to pezz high mileage, runs like new, hope it runs forever.
I switched with my 2018 2.7 to this oil just for vehicle life. Luckily I haven't had any issues aside from having to change my cats at 70k miles. Hopefully she keeps on running good.
I hope that belt don’t blow on you like it did in my eco-boost fusion that shit hurt my heart it chewed about five teeth off the belt every 4 inches at 120,000 timing belt
I'm a recent convert to the Valvoline R and P. I've seen enough people's experience to trust it does what it says it can. I'm starting with low-miles (8200 and 3400) on each vehicle, so it will keep sludge from forming in the first place. Also, the WIX site has a filter specification page where you can find any filter they make. It's handy if you already know the seal size, thread and pitch, which is shown on the filter look-up page for your car, then you can find exactly what you want. I made my own by-pass filtration system using a lube filter with a 10-micron rating. I have it plumbed from a filter adapter with an extra output port, into the top of the filler cap. It works well and cost only $10, compared to a big name brand for hundreds. I been reluctant to comment for a year, or so and I know this is way off topic, so try to be nice to me for going off track ;-)
@jamesplitkin4674 just to share my own experience, if you still plan regular oil changes, then a 10-micron bypass can only help you. But for extended oil change intervals, 10 micron is not fine enough; it really needs to be about 2. It sounds like you plan regular oil changes anyway, but absent regular oil analysis, I've seen people use a bypass of only about 10 micron, and still develop sludge from extended OCI. Yes, a proper bypass system will more likely be hundreds. We have several of them on multiple vehicles. As an example, just the vehicle I am driving today has over 50k since the last oil change, and its spotless and clean as a whistle inside. Last analysis showed the oil cleaner than new. I hate changing my oil, so to me it was way worth it. If you're going to still do regular oil changes, then again from what I've seen, the extra 10 micron filtration can not hurt, and can only help you 🙂
That filter is HUGE! Thank you for documenting this, I'm thinking my 2015 might need to switch oils at the next change. 191k now, owned since about 39k and oil always changed at 5k on the dot. I kinda want to get a bore scope and see what it looks like inside as well.
I have been singing this oil’s praises since it came out and I gave it a shot in my oil-burning Hyundai. Everyone destroyed me in the comments calling me a “paid reviewer.” It feels good to be vindicated by so many videos like this now. Valvoline Restore and Protect is a game changer and it should become the standard for all oils, in my opinion.
just changed to this stuff in my sisters 2013 1.6 accent with 153K miles. The thing only takes 3.5 qts and she was 2qt low when i checked it after 5000 miles. Looked like a good amount of sludge inside so I'm looking forward to testing this and seeing how much it burns( but we will not be going anywhere near 5K oil change) . She has about 500 on this and it looks pretty good. Will change at 2k on the first change and then every 3K. I also bumped it up to 5w 30 instead of the 5w 20 it calls for.
@@briankalagher6687 Yes! Stay the course! Ours is a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T and it was drinking oil pretty severely. I bought it high mileage without knowledge of this issue. But I'm on my second oil change with VR&P and I'll change the oil at 3,000 miles. The first oil change I did at 1500 miles because I didn't want a ton of sludge getting circulated in the engine. I'm glad I changed it that soon because that oil was super dark... So far, the oil consumption has significantly slowed and I'm hoping by oil change 4 it will be nearly no consumption. (Fingers Crossed!)
Donaldson has always been state of the art in filters for earthmoving and trucks and military vehicles, especially good in AIR filters for dusty conditions. GOOD GEAR.
Glad you posted this. I started using Restore and protect on your recommendation. Started at 258500 miles. 06 CVPI. Hardly burns any oil, about 1/2 quart every 4-5k. I changed it at 260k 1500 miles 1st change. The oil was fairly clean, kinda like a bronze clearish color. Didn't burn anything. Now at 262 and level still full, oil same color, bronze clearish. I'll report back at 5k and see if it burns the 1/2 quart as usual. So far so good tho.
2007 Toyota Tacoma with 326,000 miles on it. I’ve had her since she was brand new. I’ve only used mobile one, 5-30 full synthetic. Never had one single issue with this truck. Still idles and runs like it’s brand new. I changed the oil every 4000 miles. Just took a borescope to the inside and it is so clean. It’s like a brand new engine in there still. It’s not about the type of oil you use. It’s about how often you change it and that’s the bottom line. Use Valvoline. Use mobile one. Use Pennzoil. Use Quaker State whatever.all of today’s modern oils will be just fine as long as you change them in a timely manner and that’s it.
This oil is great for someone with varnish inside the engine, someone like me who used to do 5-7k miles once a year oil changes. Started doing 6 month/3k oil changes with mobil one EP. Ran okay. Pricy oil. Started this Valvoline. Night and day smoothness and quietness. 2010 rx350 3.5 v6. I can hear the injectors for the first time ever. Im only on the first oil change 1500 miles in. Checked the filter 5 mins ago and the oil was nasty and black. The car runs better. Try it out
I’m at ~2K on my ‘12 Toyota with 126K. Engine immediately ran more quiet than previous. Vehicle has a TSB for low friction rings oil consumption. I’m hoping this will prevent the car from developing it. I imagine it’s the only oil I’ll ever use in the car again. Fuel smell from my OCC has possibly decreased a bit, not 100% sure. We’ll see how that develops. Thanks for tracking your VRP use on YT FBM!
I am on my second oil change using R&P on my 2012 Expedition with the 5.3 3 valve and 141,000 miles. It has made a positive difference. Engine much more responsive. Couldn't see anything in the filter.
LUBE FILTER, SPIN-ON FULL FLOW Why Choose Donaldson Lube Filters? Donaldson lube filters are designed to keep today’s engine lube systems functioning at peak performance. • Keep oil clean by capturing contaminants that cause engine damage. • Include heavy duty components that are built to perform, built to last. • Deliver essential engine protection for maximum cold flow performance. Attributes Cross Reference Equipment Recently Viewed Attributes Outer Diameter 3.82 inch (97 mm) Thread Size M22 x 1.5 Length 5.51 inch (140 mm) Gasket OD 2.83 inch (72 mm) Gasket ID 2.44 inch (62 mm) Efficiency 99% 40 micron Anti-Drainback Valve Yes Bypass Valve Yes Bypass Valve Setting LR 15 psi (1 bar) Bypass Valve Setting HR 20 psi (1.4 bar) Type Full-Flow Style Spin-On they also make all kind of filtres, i took this right from their web page. shop.donaldson.com/store/en-ca/product/P553315/20857?_requestid=111900&_requestid=112020#
Typically your local Caterpillar dealer does oil analysis in-house, quick turnaround and reasonable cost. They do it for anyone and anything. Just FYI...
Hey Rich. Maybe you know this already, i am not sure. But I was chatting to the guys at BG about the EPR MOA the 44. So we got chatting about how it worked. The guy was telling me that by using the MOA you can eliminate catch can oil. Also there is a warranty that comes with the kit. Hope your Dad is ok! Prayers this end for him! Cheers Rich!
This is all I use in my 2009 Nissan cube. I am not mechanically inclined like yourself unfortunately. But I have had many mechanics across the Nation in places I've lived. The majority of them all have recommended Valvoline to me.
You can add 1 ounce of seafoam per quart of oil that your vehicle holds when it gets about time to change the oil and drive it around five hundred miles and then change the oil and filter works very well
All i’v seen from every video on RUclips is how good this stuff is. I Really want to start using it but unfortunately for us Canadians we can’t get it here yet.Unless we order it online but even then when I google it not to many options come up for shipping it Canada.
First thing i noticed was oil pressure was more stable even while fully warm. Other oils i would see a big drop when warm. Butt dyno seems it cruises easier. 2004 GMC 4.3. Mileage seems better too.
I have a 2019 Nissan 370Z with the VQ37VHR(3.7 liter) engine. I use a filter for the 5.6 liter Nissan Titan which is identical, except that it is about 50% taller than the recommended filter. In addition to the larger capacity, another reason I like it is that the 50% greater filtration area will result in less pressure drop across the filter medium, about 6 or 7 psi by my estimates.
Did 4k on the first round on a ‘03 matrix 350k on the odometer. Of all the synthetic oils I ran in this car this one came out looking like coal, so I know it’s doing some good. It burns oil like crazy though, topped off with 2 quarts in that 4k, so had to intervene with some Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer. Did an oil change yesterday so round 2 of the restore and protect plus 1.3 quarts of the Lucas.
It's sounds like it may have dissolved some buildup that was helping seal valve guides (are you seeing blue smoke on startup after car sits overnight?). I've been thinking about using this on my 06 Matrix with 227k miles. It burns about 2 quarts between 5k oil changes. Not terrible but I thought I could improve this with VRP. How much oil was it burning before VRP?
@@MarzNet256no blue smoke on startup and that’s with the car sitting for 5 days. Consumption seems to be about 1/2 quart less when I use the Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer. Did not use Lucas in round 1 of restore and protect, I’ve added it to round 2 just to see if there is a difference in consumption. Car does not burn oil in town driving, but consumes at highway speeds. Hoping the oil frees up the oil control rings since this is a major problem with the 1zzfe engine. Also added a 1/2 quart to the overall capacity due to the TSB That was released many years ago, basically blamed that ring coking was due to not enough oil in the sump.
My Accord’s oil was smelling like fuel, I tried running some fuel cleaners through it. Low grade fuel affects engine wear significantly. STP 1 Tank Tune Up works pretty well and cleans the fuel and exhaust systems; I think it’s mostly just straight run kerosene. Lucas Fuel Injection Cleaner does seem to improve compression a bit, but it definitely doesn’t completely make up for low grade fuel and you shouldn’t try mixing much more than they suggest. It seems to have revive the fuel pump regulator or something because it smells significantly less like fuel. I have a new pump and plugs, but it doesn’t quite seem to need them yet at 162,000
I’ve always loved your oil videos - thank you for doing this. I have the 5.0 and switched from PUP to VRAP. I ran the VRAP for 500 miles, dropped it and replaced. I’ll send a sample to Blackstone at around 3000 miles - should be interesting. I was going to send it to Lake Speed because Blackstone takes so long, but man is Speed Diagnostic expensive.
Great info here Rich! Question I’m about to purchase a new vehicle probably a Lexus. So would you use the restore protect from the get go when I do my first oil change at 1000 miles and there on out for the vehicles life?
It wont really matter until you get to around 40k miles. And even then it won't really matter unless you're not getting to operating temperature or not changing the oil at least every 5k miles. If you're doing that, then your next target will be around 100k mark.
Look up The Motor Oil Geek on RUclips. He has a video on his daughter’s new Corolla that he did an oil change on in 100 or 500 miles (can’t remember). It’s pretty obvious that there is benefit from an early initial oil change with how much debris there is. I believe he did the 2nd oil change at 1k miles and has done a 3rd at 5k. You see the contaminants reduce greatly as expected. The people who think engines are broken in from the factory are not correct.
About 1k into the oil change on my ‘03 matrix with 346k on the clock. Used to add 1qt/500 miles but now only added 1/2qt in 1k. Also noticed deposits on the oil fill hole baffle are beginning to decrease. Will run this oil for the life of the car.
I wonder what's their HTHS on the 5W30 version of Restore and Protect? They list HTHS for most of their oils...but not for this one. EP HM 5W30 is 3.3. Is 3.1-3.2 a likely ballpark HTHS for the 5W30 Restore and Protect?
Looking forward to seeing how VRP is working "Indirectly" for when it is going thru the PCV/Intake Valves. (Catch Can Oil) Don't have a Catch Can myself (hopefully won't need one) but there is some suggestions that VRP can benefit the PCV systems that can tend to clog by cleaning passages and keeping intake valves "cleaner". Currently about 700 miles into my first VRP run on my 2014 GMC Terrain AWD (2.4L Ecotec). Been addressing Fuel Dilution issues (from Short Tripping and excess Idle) and reducing my change interval to around 3000 miles/6 months (OLM 50-60%) vs 7500 miles/12 months. Wear Metal and Fuel Dilution is "good" at the moment. Hopefully VRP's claim on its High Anti-Wear Protection gives me a little extra safety margin...
Have you tried cranking, starting the engine with no plug, I do that on every engine I change oil on, just start, shut off, it will drain a bunch more oil, and no engine damage, on 14 gallon diesels, I always use the fill prime port to flush the old black oil. Amazing how much longer oil stays cleaner.
Look up the oil filter # for a 2001 tahoe, should be the longer one. As I recall about an inch and a half longer. Found this out when I bought a 2005-it has the shorter filter like the 2007
Is there a site to cross ref filters that are the same thread and gasket size but longer? I've found ones that cross ref brands that are the exact same but I'm looking for ones that are longer...
After looking around I wonder if this Donaldson filter so what ford is using as their Ford Racing filter. Part # CM6731-FL820 It is a taller filter for extra capacity and supposedly has better filtration.
I have a few obs trucks with the 5.8 fuel injected setup. Fl820s is what they call for. My 79 bronco with a 400 takes a FL1A. My 99 ranger with a OHV 4.0 also runs a FL1A
Just did my wife’s 3rd oil change with this last weekend along with a transmission fluid drain and fill on her 2016 explorer with 155,000 miles. Just curious if you know of a possible larger oil filter for the 2.3 eco boost on the Ranger I could use over the FL 910
@FordBossMe Thank you for the honest opinion. I know you know your shit. That's why I'm current using the ultra platinum in my 23 raptor EB every 2500-3k miles. Have a blessed day, appreciate all the tips and knowledge. I hope your pops is doing better.
I was going to put the fl820 on 3.5 ecoboost. I tried on my 2014 I can't physically get it into the filter area. I'll try again. I have cases of 820s for OBS trucks
What do you think guys. Would this 5-30W "Restore and Protect" be safe to use in a 1989 F-250 with a 460 cid ( 7.5 L ) that has 130K on it? It's currently using about a quart of Castrol 10-30W every 250 miles. I think it's got seized piston oil rings. I never see any smoke out the exhaust and no significant leaks, so I think it's getting past the seized oil rings and getting burnt in the catalytic converter. The engine has good compression, runs great and is quiet. I'll just overlook the fact the beast only gets about 9 MPG on a good day. They were never known for there economy.
I'm wondering about filter bypass valves now. Ford uses the base-end bypass. I was considering the Purolator Boss after a cut-open video I watched, but the bypass is at the bottom of the filter. I saw where the Motorcraft FL500 is getting black glue in the oil?!? I just need something that filters and doesn't fall apart. 2015 F-150 Platinum 5.0.....93k miles. I also run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum of the recommended viscosity 5w20. Upper or lower bypass? Thanks.
I have put on 3K miles since I used R&P but still have yet to see any sign of the varnish around the cam bearing becoming lighter. 2003 Camry 2AZ 4 cylinder with 174K miles on it. Have not seen any of the varnish lessening on my wife's 2012 Scion Xb as well. It does seem to help with the oil consumption though.
I use this oil in my Lexus 0w20 sounds good do a oil change every 5k but I used it in my mustang s550 3rd gen engine normally use amsoil but wanted to give it a try and man did my lifters start ticking ran it for about 500miles and went back to amsoil tick went away
I’m starting my 4th oil change with the restore and protect and so far my car has stopped burning oil. It’s a hybrid GDI so I can’t check anything out in the inside though
Being honest, i recently changed my diesel yanmar to Rotella T6 synthetic, same results, and now the oil stays golden. The T6 is rated for diesel and gas....
Does The Donaldson filter have the anti drain back valve like the motorcraft do? Years ago I had a 99 explorer with a 4 litte pushrod motor ran a non motorcraft filter and it had lots of startup clatter switch back to a motorcraft filter clatter went away
Curious on the filtration micron size the Donaldson filter can trap down to and the oil back pressure characteristics, e.g., filter at sub 20 um, you get a lower flow rate through the synthetic media and a filter can go into bypass earlier, which may not be a good thing?
I have a 2014 Ford Escape with the 2.0 Ecoboost. I was running the Valvoline High mileage full synthetic, I switched to Valvoline extended protection high mileage and have noticed more valve train noise. Should I switch back to the regular full synthetic high mileage or the restore and protect? I’m currently sitting at 154k miles.
@@FordBossMe I appreciate the response! I’ve been going back and forth on it, I’ll probably end up back with the full synthetic maxlife. I really do like valvoline products! Best bang for the buck in my opinion!
@@JHargraves1182 Yeah, i've been going back and fourth with the Pennzoil UP and HM Max Life. Both are great, but since i'm almost over 100K in my 2014 3.5L EB, i'm probably just gonna stick with the Valvoline Max life from now on. I'm sure the results of the R&P are good, but then again...just stick to what works. 21 MPG and change it every 3.5k
hey bud, do you think the AMSOIL SIGNATURE SERIES has as much detergents as this Valvoline restore and protect? my 2023 subaru legacy has 21k on it and i’m using the amsoil ss
My 2011 toyota sequoia was burning 1.5 qts in 3k miles after 3 rounds of restore amd protect at 3k inervals it now doesnt burn a drop. I am a believer.
Humm... I was very skeptical until I saw videos to confirm it works...maybe I should give it a try? My 07' Civic Si burns about 1/2 to 1 Quart every 5K. Car has 291K. I normally use Valvoline Max Life High Mileage 5w/30 Syn Blend.
@@edwardinvegastry it, and get back with us. Everyone I heard has had positive results. Even the Oil Geek guy approved it several videos ago.
Holy crap that’s crazy good results!
You have a civic it will always burn oil unless you do the valve seals or the oil control rings@@edwardinvegas
@@DetroitMetroRetro Eh we will see what happens...give it a shot. Only out an extra $10 per oil change...
I worked for Donaldson for over a decade and they are the real deal in filter manufacturing. LOTS of R&D and testing goes into everything they produce. They also supply many of the high end brand filters as well as many of the OEMs.
I recognize that last name. I still work at Donaldson and I can confirm we still do a lot of R&D and testing.
@@nickp6472 Hey Nick, How you been? Still go that screaming mustang?
@jsflagstad I'm doing well and yup, I still have the Stang.
@jsflagstab is there any harm in upsizing the oil filter? ie flow issues due to the increased volume?
Donaldson filters are probably the Best.
I put this in my 2018 transit 150 with the 3.5 eco-boost. I just started to get a startup cam phaser rattle at 110,000 miles. After two days with the restore protect the noise is gone and has not returned in a month, I am sold on this stuff. My engine was super clean already from using Pennzoil synthetic every 5000 miles.
I call bullshit on this. The cam phaser rattle is not oil related, it's a faulty design.
@@sixsixST2 so oil flow has nothing to do with cam phaser operation? It seems like most of their operation is controlled through hydraulic oil pressure.
my two "go to" oils are either pennzoil ultra platinum or valvoline advanced full synthetic, ill get whichever one i can find cheaper when i need oil. i think theyre both the best for the price unless you wanna spend an arm and a leg for amsoil
Give Schaeffers full synthetic a try. It has a lot of moly in it, really great detergent package. Their products solve Ford problems.
I've run two oil changes with Restore and protect in my VW Atlas V6 and its cleaned amazingly. Right in the fill port there is a little screw that had varnish on it and its completely gone. Peering into the engine reveals a like new appearance with 84k miles.
Aren’t you supposed to use a VW 508/509 oil?
@@coldjello8436yes but generally, the European spec is just for long drain intervals. He could run this for short oil intervals and then once the engine is cleaned back up, move back to the European spec.
@@coldjello8436 VW specs are not that amazing. They are just formulated for long drain intervals and anti-soot. Restore and protect is perfectly fine for a 4-5k interval which is what I do.
Running it with my wife’s VR6 Passat with 120k miles for 2 oil changes now. Totaling 10k miles. Seems to be working at cleaning slug etc. I started 5k services around 75k
Very interesting. If it truly removes var ish and sludge out we may a magical oil.
less oil in the catch can means the base oil is either not getting as hot, or is more resistant to boiling at the same tempratures.
Usually better base oils show these properties, as described in NOACK testing.
This is just the video I've been waiting for. Thanks for doing this. Im due for an oil change, been using Valvoline Advanced for over a few years, now im hoing to Restore and Protect.
been using this in my 2013 scion tc for the past 10k miles. ive got 198k on the motor. pulled the valve cover last month to do a new seal kit. was amazed at how clean the inside was.
Beautiful
@@FordBossMeGreat video. Usually I will fill the oil filter 50% with oil so the media is wet when I crank engine.
You mentioned in another video you were in the military, what was your MOS / career field ?
Get ready for a crazy 2025....
I recently put Valvoline R&P in my ford maverick hybrid and I swear the MPG is better than its ever been. I dont understand why but ill take it.
I'm glad this video came out,because I planned on putting this oil in my Pilot to clean the internals and quite the engine down.
I'm running it on a '10 Pilot at the moment
@@wilmerherrera8722I’m putting it into wife’s 13 Pilot this weekend. Has 120k miles with up to snuff maintenance so just doing it for precautionary fun 🤩 Been using in my kids 06 Lexus GS 300 DI only with carbon issues with good results so far. Same deal as here with going from lots of fuel smell in the oil to still there but way less and noticeable less oil consumption.
@@wilmerherrera8722 nice, I bought this car used and I think the oil changes were too long and the inside of the engine is not as good as my other car that I have had since new.
Hondas do need valve clearance adjustments to keep them from sounding like a typewriter. I switched to 5w-20 Restore and Protect in my 2011 Odyssey, instead of 0w-20, and it is quiter but I do need to adjust my valve lash (new gaskets are here on Tuesday so finally getting to it).
Dude, I verbally said out loud when I saw the funnel you were using "Whoa, what is that funnel???" LOL I literally just changed the oil in my 2015 5.0 an hour ago and told myself I need to find the magic funnel for this thing. Thanks!!!
Beautiful
Been running amsoil full synthetic for years. On my mustang when i pulled the pan to install a moroso windage tray the bottom end was spotless.
It's good to see you giving SPEEDiagnostix a try for the oil analysis. I think Lake's reports go into more depth and are easier to interpret than Blackstone.
I am so glad you did this video, Rich. I was going to ask you why you used a bigger oil filter and you explained it well. Plus I was going to ask you if I could do the same thing with my 3.5 Ecoboost and you answered that, too. So thank you for that. I put this oil in my truck so I am eager to see what it looks like on my next oil change. I just recently put it in my 2018 Explorer to try it out. Keep you posted.
My Pennzoil Platinum oil keeps my engine clean. I currently use it in my 2015 Dodge Dart GT. I had a 2005 Mercury Sable, and if you looked through the oil cap at the engine, it was super clean. I might have to try this oil, though.
I threw some 0w40 platinum in my 6.0 powerstroke to see if it will reduce stiction throughout this winter
So far:
It was easier/cheaper than aquiring Valvoline Blue 5w40 (and at this point, I want to try 0w40's anyways) all the 5w40's still had stiction of some sort last winter.
-Hot shots secret didn't seem to make a difference
-Archoil didn't seem to make a difference
-STP ceramic oil additive didn't improve the stiction
Im moving on to stronger detergent base oils for 'varnish' at this point, although CENEX Maxtron Enviroedge 5w40 was interesting, even though it has a very very strong detergent package. Im starting to think between Pennzoil and Valvoline blue I might find the results im looking for, in 0w40's.
If I can't get Valvoline blue in 0w40, ill get their euro spec 0w40.
I wont run these oils much past 3k miles anyways because I like quiet injectors.
After all this time, about 1500 miles into a new oil, the oil if I understand it changes.
In the beginning of new oil changes, I get low oil temps where my coolant surpasses the oil in heat tempratures.
In the middle of the oil change, the oil warms up faster than the coolant.
I start thinking about oil changes when its above 12 degrees delta on the warm ups. And I can hear the difference as well.
in fact I have a jar of archoil mixed in with some STP 5w40 and the oil sticks MORE than quaker state 5w40 with some Militec-1 gun oil.
As I understand it, the castrol magnatec/royal purple synerlec/Militec-1's are in the gun oil familys of chlorinate/sulphated esters.
Suppusedly people don't want chlorinated esters in their motors because its chlorine, it can make some funky chemicals. Pretty good at rust prevention tho.
These experiments are fun.
Run this oil for the first time 5k miles ago i just changed it yesterday and i also have catch can on the 2013 sonata. The varnish and n the bottom on the can was crazy means it cleaned a lot of the engine. Car still burns oil on the 1k/1qrt range but will see how it goes. Few things improved: car is very responsive on the pedal and on the cruise, mpg went up 2-3 miles for now, and catch can has way less blowby. Before i had full catch can in 1k miles now 1/2 can in 5k. Drastically improved the blow-by and the oil was blacker than black when flushed. The mechanic even asked why oil is so black 🙂 overall great oil so far and i see results, expecting less oil bur in the future
I’m gonna try this filter on my 2000 v10 at the next oil change. The fl-820 always seemed like a small filter for such a big engine
I use the fl820 on my old obs ford trucks. My little v6 econoline van uses a fl1a same as my 99 ford ranger. Huge filter. Always thought it was funny/ strange
Love the video. Valvoline R&P is my go to oil for my cars. Just wanted to add that you don't necessarily always get more restriction with better filtering. The top end Fram synthetic filter not only filters better but has less restriction as well. It has to do with the way they design the synthetic fiber pattern. The Purolator Boss is the same.
I use Fram Ultra Synthetic with my R&P.
the more surface area the filter element inside as, the lower the restrictions, it all come to build quality.
@@g.simard854 The funny thing is that the Fram ultra synthetic has less surface area than the lower tier filters. The magic is in the filter media engineering.
R&P and Boss for me next oil change courtesy of the Adv’d Auto bundle 💪 I do have the Fram Ultra right now in my Civic and I won’t hesitate to use it again if I need to.
@@moshet842 less surface and same micron rating mean less efficiency (beta rating)
Good idea utilizing the flood clear to prime the oil system
2008 Acura TL typeS 6speed.. 3.5 engine.. after my 3rd oil change using 5w20 it burns no more oil!!!❤
Great information thank you. Have a blessed evening Ford Boss.
I've used penzz full syn 5 20 and ford filter since new in my 2014 5.0 f150 every 4000 km has 140,000 now only difference is at 100,000 km I switched to pezz high mileage, runs like new, hope it runs forever.
I switched with my 2018 2.7 to this oil just for vehicle life. Luckily I haven't had any issues aside from having to change my cats at 70k miles. Hopefully she keeps on running good.
I hope that belt don’t blow on you like it did in my eco-boost fusion that shit hurt my heart it chewed about five teeth off the belt every 4 inches at 120,000 timing belt
Might have to try this in my Focus ST, great content as always.
I've used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and have noticed a significant difference in responsiveness.
I'm a recent convert to the Valvoline R and P. I've seen enough people's experience to trust it does what it says it can. I'm starting with low-miles (8200 and 3400) on each vehicle, so it will keep sludge from forming in the first place. Also, the WIX site has a filter specification page where you can find any filter they make. It's handy if you already know the seal size, thread and pitch, which is shown on the filter look-up page for your car, then you can find exactly what you want. I made my own by-pass filtration system using a lube filter with a 10-micron rating. I have it plumbed from a filter adapter with an extra output port, into the top of the filler cap. It works well and cost only $10, compared to a big name brand for hundreds. I been reluctant to comment for a year, or so and I know this is way off topic, so try to be nice to me for going off track ;-)
@jamesplitkin4674 just to share my own experience, if you still plan regular oil changes, then a 10-micron bypass can only help you.
But for extended oil change intervals, 10 micron is not fine enough; it really needs to be about 2.
It sounds like you plan regular oil changes anyway, but absent regular oil analysis, I've seen people use a bypass of only about 10 micron, and still develop sludge from extended OCI.
Yes, a proper bypass system will more likely be hundreds. We have several of them on multiple vehicles. As an example, just the vehicle I am driving today has over 50k since the last oil change, and its spotless and clean as a whistle inside. Last analysis showed the oil cleaner than new. I hate changing my oil, so to me it was way worth it.
If you're going to still do regular oil changes, then again from what I've seen, the extra 10 micron filtration can not hurt, and can only help you 🙂
Using Restore in my 16 F-150 right now. Lake Speed will do you right, worked with his Dad some. Thanks
That filter is HUGE! Thank you for documenting this, I'm thinking my 2015 might need to switch oils at the next change. 191k now, owned since about 39k and oil always changed at 5k on the dot. I kinda want to get a bore scope and see what it looks like inside as well.
Awesome
I am going to try this oil and filter as well
Thanks brother
I have been singing this oil’s praises since it came out and I gave it a shot in my oil-burning Hyundai. Everyone destroyed me in the comments calling me a “paid reviewer.” It feels good to be vindicated by so many videos like this now. Valvoline Restore and Protect is a game changer and it should become the standard for all oils, in my opinion.
just changed to this stuff in my sisters 2013 1.6 accent with 153K miles. The thing only takes 3.5 qts and she was 2qt low when i checked it after 5000 miles. Looked like a good amount of sludge inside so I'm looking forward to testing this and seeing how much it burns( but we will not be going anywhere near 5K oil change) . She has about 500 on this and it looks pretty good. Will change at 2k on the first change and then every 3K. I also bumped it up to 5w 30 instead of the 5w 20 it calls for.
@@briankalagher6687 Yes! Stay the course! Ours is a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T and it was drinking oil pretty severely. I bought it high mileage without knowledge of this issue. But I'm on my second oil change with VR&P and I'll change the oil at 3,000 miles. The first oil change I did at 1500 miles because I didn't want a ton of sludge getting circulated in the engine. I'm glad I changed it that soon because that oil was super dark... So far, the oil consumption has significantly slowed and I'm hoping by oil change 4 it will be nearly no consumption. (Fingers Crossed!)
Donaldson is a new brand to me.
Donaldson has always been state of the art in filters for earthmoving and trucks and military vehicles, especially good in AIR filters for dusty conditions. GOOD GEAR.
Glad you posted this. I started using Restore and protect on your recommendation. Started at 258500 miles. 06 CVPI. Hardly burns any oil, about 1/2 quart every 4-5k. I changed it at 260k 1500 miles 1st change. The oil was fairly clean, kinda like a bronze clearish color. Didn't burn anything. Now at 262 and level still full, oil same color, bronze clearish. I'll report back at 5k and see if it burns the 1/2 quart as usual. So far so good tho.
people with hyundai kia gdi engines need to run this exclusively.
I have a 2017 sorento with the dreaded 2.4l. Would this really work?
@@brucevanguard6313 Atleast two people on the Hyundai forums have tried it and said yes. I have put this oil in my hyundai two weeks ago.
I currently run valvoline exclusively, the engine runs like a top and doesn’t suck a teaspoon in the catch can, highly recommend valvoline for the 2.4
Mazda Skyactiv too, I just got one with 66k. I'm switching to it immediately.
@brucevanguard6313 sure can't hurt, seen a few of them locked up solid with no oil in them, it's mandatory to check the oil in those at each fill-up
2007 Toyota Tacoma with 326,000 miles on it. I’ve had her since she was brand new. I’ve only used mobile one, 5-30 full synthetic. Never had one single issue with this truck. Still idles and runs like it’s brand new. I changed the oil every 4000 miles. Just took a borescope to the inside and it is so clean. It’s like a brand new engine in there still. It’s not about the type of oil you use. It’s about how often you change it and that’s the bottom line. Use Valvoline. Use mobile one. Use Pennzoil. Use Quaker State whatever.all of today’s modern oils will be just fine as long as you change them in a timely manner and that’s it.
This oil is great for someone with varnish inside the engine, someone like me who used to do 5-7k miles once a year oil changes. Started doing 6 month/3k oil changes with mobil one EP. Ran okay. Pricy oil. Started this Valvoline. Night and day smoothness and quietness. 2010 rx350 3.5 v6. I can hear the injectors for the first time ever. Im only on the first oil change 1500 miles in. Checked the filter 5 mins ago and the oil was nasty and black. The car runs better. Try it out
It was a little chilly in the Chicago area yesterday. I see you donned a light jacket.
I’m at ~2K on my ‘12 Toyota with 126K. Engine immediately ran more quiet than previous. Vehicle has a TSB for low friction rings oil consumption. I’m hoping this will prevent the car from developing it. I imagine it’s the only oil I’ll ever use in the car again.
Fuel smell from my OCC has possibly decreased a bit, not 100% sure. We’ll see how that develops.
Thanks for tracking your VRP use on YT FBM!
Just put this in my edge . Noticed a difference right away.
I started using the same oil on my 2013 F 150 Ecoboost.
I am on my second oil change using R&P on my 2012 Expedition with the 5.3 3 valve and 141,000 miles. It has made a positive difference. Engine much more responsive. Couldn't see anything in the filter.
B.S. You have confirmation bias.
The Donaldson Filter is a "hydraulic" filter. Does it have an overpressure and anti-drainback valve that their lube filter provides?
LUBE FILTER, SPIN-ON FULL FLOW
Why Choose Donaldson Lube Filters?
Donaldson lube filters are designed to keep today’s engine lube systems functioning at peak performance.
• Keep oil clean by capturing contaminants that cause engine damage.
• Include heavy duty components that are built to perform, built to last.
• Deliver essential engine protection for maximum cold flow performance.
Attributes
Cross Reference
Equipment
Recently Viewed
Attributes
Outer Diameter 3.82 inch (97 mm)
Thread Size M22 x 1.5
Length 5.51 inch (140 mm)
Gasket OD 2.83 inch (72 mm)
Gasket ID 2.44 inch (62 mm)
Efficiency 99% 40 micron
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Bypass Valve Yes
Bypass Valve Setting LR 15 psi (1 bar)
Bypass Valve Setting HR 20 psi (1.4 bar)
Type Full-Flow
Style Spin-On
they also make all kind of filtres, i took this right from their web page.
shop.donaldson.com/store/en-ca/product/P553315/20857?_requestid=111900&_requestid=112020#
According to the Donaldson website, it has an anti-drainback valve and a bypass valve.
Thanks for the video. My 7.3 uses the 820s so this Donaldson filter should fit the 7.3 also?
Yes
Thank's for the info,been using Chevron premium synthetic,I'll try some of that Valvoline.
Would you recommend this oil for a 2018 2.7L ecoboost F150? Mine has 95,000 miles.
Typically your local Caterpillar dealer does oil analysis in-house, quick turnaround and reasonable cost. They do it for anyone and anything. Just FYI...
im always looking for a bigger filter
I have been running Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 with MMO Synthetic in my 2012 F-150
My lexus ls460 is running way different literally the first week I put this oil in my engine...this is some crazy oil
Hey Rich.
Maybe you know this already, i am not sure. But I was chatting to the guys at BG about the EPR MOA the 44. So we got chatting about how it worked. The guy was telling me that by using the MOA you can eliminate catch can oil. Also there is a warranty that comes with the kit.
Hope your Dad is ok! Prayers this end for him!
Cheers Rich!
This is all I use in my 2009 Nissan cube. I am not mechanically inclined like yourself unfortunately. But I have had many mechanics across the Nation in places I've lived. The majority of them all have recommended Valvoline to me.
You can add 1 ounce of seafoam per quart of oil that your vehicle holds when it gets about time to change the oil and drive it around five hundred miles and then change the oil and filter works very well
All i’v seen from every video on RUclips is how good this stuff is.
I Really want to start using it but unfortunately for us Canadians we can’t get it here yet.Unless we order it online but even then when I google it not to many options come up for shipping it Canada.
Rock auto has some that can be shipped up here but it’s kinda pricey. I am tempted to try it tho. Using Pennzoil UP currently.
thanks for this. you look tired. have a great day.
First thing i noticed was oil pressure was more stable even while fully warm. Other oils i would see a big drop when warm. Butt dyno seems it cruises easier. 2004 GMC 4.3. Mileage seems better too.
Good stuff, brother. Hope you are well.
Getting my RP tomorrow. Can’t wait.
I have a 2019 Nissan 370Z with the VQ37VHR(3.7 liter) engine. I use a filter for the 5.6 liter Nissan Titan which is identical, except that it is about 50% taller than the recommended filter. In addition to the larger capacity, another reason I like it is that the 50% greater filtration area will result in less pressure drop across the filter medium, about 6 or 7 psi by my estimates.
Did 4k on the first round on a ‘03 matrix 350k on the odometer. Of all the synthetic oils I ran in this car this one came out looking like coal, so I know it’s doing some good. It burns oil like crazy though, topped off with 2 quarts in that 4k, so had to intervene with some Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer. Did an oil change yesterday so round 2 of the restore and protect plus 1.3 quarts of the Lucas.
It's sounds like it may have dissolved some buildup that was helping seal valve guides (are you seeing blue smoke on startup after car sits overnight?). I've been thinking about using this on my 06 Matrix with 227k miles. It burns about 2 quarts between 5k oil changes. Not terrible but I thought I could improve this with VRP. How much oil was it burning before VRP?
@@MarzNet256no blue smoke on startup and that’s with the car sitting for 5 days. Consumption seems to be about 1/2 quart less when I use the Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer. Did not use Lucas in round 1 of restore and protect, I’ve added it to round 2 just to see if there is a difference in consumption. Car does not burn oil in town driving, but consumes at highway speeds. Hoping the oil frees up the oil control rings since this is a major problem with the 1zzfe engine. Also added a 1/2 quart to the overall capacity due to the TSB That was released many years ago, basically blamed that ring coking was due to not enough oil in the sump.
@Feckoff730 Gotcha. So, it started burning more oil with VRP?
I use this oil in my 6.2 ford. I have gained mpg with it.
My Accord’s oil was smelling like fuel, I tried running some fuel cleaners through it. Low grade fuel affects engine wear significantly. STP 1 Tank Tune Up works pretty well and cleans the fuel and exhaust systems; I think it’s mostly just straight run kerosene. Lucas Fuel Injection Cleaner does seem to improve compression a bit, but it definitely doesn’t completely make up for low grade fuel and you shouldn’t try mixing much more than they suggest. It seems to have revive the fuel pump regulator or something because it smells significantly less like fuel. I have a new pump and plugs, but it doesn’t quite seem to need them yet at 162,000
Gonna try this oil on my 2006 Subaru sti. Just got back $ 5116 dollars for cracked valve replacement
I’ve always loved your oil videos - thank you for doing this. I have the 5.0 and switched from PUP to VRAP. I ran the VRAP for 500 miles, dropped it and replaced. I’ll send a sample to Blackstone at around 3000 miles - should be interesting. I was going to send it to Lake Speed because Blackstone takes so long, but man is Speed Diagnostic expensive.
Great info here Rich! Question I’m about to purchase a new vehicle probably a Lexus. So would you use the restore protect from the get go when I do my first oil change at 1000 miles and there on out for the vehicles life?
Heck no, if changing yourself use the grade of oil specified and cut the intervals to one half or one third and that Lexus engine will last forever.
It wont really matter until you get to around 40k miles. And even then it won't really matter unless you're not getting to operating temperature or not changing the oil at least every 5k miles. If you're doing that, then your next target will be around 100k mark.
Look up The Motor Oil Geek on RUclips. He has a video on his daughter’s new Corolla that he did an oil change on in 100 or 500 miles (can’t remember). It’s pretty obvious that there is benefit from an early initial oil change with how much debris there is. I believe he did the 2nd oil change at 1k miles and has done a 3rd at 5k. You see the contaminants reduce greatly as expected. The people who think engines are broken in from the factory are not correct.
About 1k into the oil change on my ‘03 matrix with 346k on the clock. Used to add 1qt/500 miles but now only added 1/2qt in 1k. Also noticed deposits on the oil fill hole baffle are beginning to decrease. Will run this oil for the life of the car.
Is it the 2.4l
@@lucasp5848 nope, 1.8 1zzfe
@@lucasp5848 nope. It’s the 1.8 1zzfe.
Good report.
Same as th PH16 run the PH8A twice the capacity.
Amsoil premium filters are made by Donaldson ( Donaldson endurance)
I wonder what's their HTHS on the 5W30 version of Restore and Protect? They list HTHS for most of their oils...but not for this one. EP HM 5W30 is 3.3. Is 3.1-3.2 a likely ballpark HTHS for the 5W30 Restore and Protect?
Looking forward to seeing how VRP is working "Indirectly" for when it is going thru the PCV/Intake Valves. (Catch Can Oil)
Don't have a Catch Can myself (hopefully won't need one) but there is some suggestions that VRP can benefit the PCV systems that can tend to clog by cleaning passages and keeping intake valves "cleaner".
Currently about 700 miles into my first VRP run on my 2014 GMC Terrain AWD (2.4L Ecotec). Been addressing Fuel Dilution issues (from Short Tripping and excess Idle) and reducing my change interval to around 3000 miles/6 months (OLM 50-60%) vs 7500 miles/12 months.
Wear Metal and Fuel Dilution is "good" at the moment. Hopefully VRP's claim on its High Anti-Wear Protection gives me a little extra safety margin...
Have you tried cranking, starting the engine with no plug, I do that on every engine I change oil on, just start, shut off, it will drain a bunch more oil, and no engine damage, on 14 gallon diesels, I always use the fill prime port to flush the old black oil. Amazing how much longer oil stays cleaner.
What is the longer version of a ACDelco PF48 and the Fram TG10060 ??? It’s for my 2007 Tahoe w/241k
Look up the oil filter # for a 2001 tahoe, should be the longer one. As I recall about an inch and a half longer. Found this out when I bought a 2005-it has the shorter filter like the 2007
I am trying the donaldson filter for the first time on my 2UZfe...plus Restore and protect...and a qt of Redline too
Is there a site to cross ref filters that are the same thread and gasket size but longer? I've found ones that cross ref brands that are the exact same but I'm looking for ones that are longer...
What happened to the oil filter tool you & Ray were promoting?
How long in milage did you keep the restore and protect for ?
After looking around I wonder if this Donaldson filter so what ford is using as their
Ford Racing filter.
Part # CM6731-FL820
It is a taller filter for extra capacity and supposedly has better filtration.
Looks to be the size of the old V8 fords....... what filter was that FL1 or FL8?
They were pretty big on the old 351/400s.
FL1-A
I have a few obs trucks with the 5.8 fuel injected setup. Fl820s is what they call for. My 79 bronco with a 400 takes a FL1A. My 99 ranger with a OHV 4.0 also runs a FL1A
i wished they made this in 10W30. my 03 bonneville SSEi runs great but it could probably benefit with 128K miles on it.
Put 5w30 in anyway. It will be fine
Just did my wife’s 3rd oil change with this last weekend along with a transmission fluid drain and fill on her 2016 explorer with 155,000 miles.
Just curious if you know of a possible larger oil filter for the 2.3 eco boost on the Ranger I could use over the FL 910
Is the Valvoline R&P only recommended for high mileage engines? Better than Pennzoil Ultra Platinum ? Thoughts and prayers for pops and your family.
All engines
@FordBossMe Thank you, would you recommend it over the ultra platinum?
@@B_EIMON ehhh i like both
@FordBossMe Thank you for the honest opinion. I know you know your shit. That's why I'm current using the ultra platinum in my 23 raptor EB every 2500-3k miles. Have a blessed day, appreciate all the tips and knowledge. I hope your pops is doing better.
I was going to put the fl820 on 3.5 ecoboost. I tried on my 2014 I can't physically get it into the filter area. I'll try again. I have cases of 820s for OBS trucks
cant seem to find vavoline restore and protect anywhere localy and online here in canada, i hope we get it soon ...
What do you think guys. Would this 5-30W "Restore and Protect" be safe to use in a 1989 F-250 with a 460 cid ( 7.5 L ) that has 130K on it? It's currently using about a quart of Castrol 10-30W every 250 miles. I think it's got seized piston oil rings. I never see any smoke out the exhaust and no significant leaks, so I think it's getting past the seized oil rings and getting burnt in the catalytic converter. The engine has good compression, runs great and is quiet. I'll just overlook the fact the beast only gets about 9 MPG on a good day. They were never known for there economy.
I'm wondering about filter bypass valves now.
Ford uses the base-end bypass.
I was considering the Purolator Boss after a cut-open video I watched, but the bypass is at the bottom of the filter.
I saw where the Motorcraft FL500 is getting black glue in the oil?!?
I just need something that filters and doesn't fall apart.
2015 F-150 Platinum 5.0.....93k miles.
I also run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum of the recommended viscosity 5w20.
Upper or lower bypass?
Thanks.
I have put on 3K miles since I used R&P but still have yet to see any sign of the varnish around the cam bearing becoming lighter. 2003 Camry 2AZ 4 cylinder with 174K miles on it. Have not seen any of the varnish lessening on my wife's 2012 Scion Xb as well. It does seem to help with the oil consumption though.
Did your oil dipstick have varnish pre R&P? How does it look now?
@@richard112360 Neither car had varnish on the dipstick.
I use this oil in my Lexus 0w20 sounds good do a oil change every 5k but I used it in my mustang s550 3rd gen engine normally use amsoil but wanted to give it a try and man did my lifters start ticking ran it for about 500miles and went back to amsoil tick went away
I’m starting my 4th oil change with the restore and protect and so far my car has stopped burning oil. It’s a hybrid GDI so I can’t check anything out in the inside though
Hello Boss, would you have the Donaldson part number for the 3.5 eco? Thank you.
It's the same
@@FordBossMe Thanks a lot. 👍🏼
Being honest, i recently changed my diesel yanmar to Rotella T6 synthetic, same results, and now the oil stays golden. The T6 is rated for diesel and gas....
Hello Rich thank you for sharing. You’re very informative. 💕NonnaGrace 🐓
the more surface area the filter element inside as, the lower the restrictions, it all come to build quality.
I would assume you could run this exact setup on a 17 5.0 right.
Does The Donaldson filter have the anti drain back valve like the motorcraft do?
Years ago I had a 99 explorer with a 4 litte pushrod motor ran a non motorcraft filter and it had lots of startup clatter switch back to a motorcraft filter clatter went away
How do you like the Donaldson filter vs Wix or others, thanks Clarence
Waw ! Dat Feelter is BEEEG !
I wish they'd come out with more oil weights for this oil. All they have at Walmart is 0w20 and 5w30. Says there's a 10w30 on valvoline website.
Curious on the filtration micron size the Donaldson filter can trap down to and the oil back pressure characteristics, e.g., filter at sub 20 um, you get a lower flow rate through the synthetic media and a filter can go into bypass earlier, which may not be a good thing?
I have a ram 5.7 . 5w20 or 5w30. ? I live in northern albeta . Ty 🙏
How’s about doing some 2014-2018 Silverado 5.3 oil filter options..would love a bigger filter
Fl500 motorcraft
I have a 2014 Ford Escape with the 2.0 Ecoboost. I was running the Valvoline High mileage full synthetic, I switched to Valvoline extended protection high mileage and have noticed more valve train noise. Should I switch back to the regular full synthetic high mileage or the restore and protect? I’m currently sitting at 154k miles.
It's up to you - if you like the other better then yes
@@FordBossMe I appreciate the response! I’ve been going back and forth on it, I’ll probably end up back with the full synthetic maxlife. I really do like valvoline products! Best bang for the buck in my opinion!
@@JHargraves1182 Yeah, i've been going back and fourth with the Pennzoil UP and HM Max Life. Both are great, but since i'm almost over 100K in my 2014 3.5L EB, i'm probably just gonna stick with the Valvoline Max life from now on. I'm sure the results of the R&P are good, but then again...just stick to what works. 21 MPG and change it every 3.5k
So is this an oil you run once or twice, then return to your original oil of choice?
Nope. Run all the time to maintain it's benefits.
@@TjBrooks-zn2ol thanks!
hey bud, do you think the AMSOIL SIGNATURE SERIES has as much detergents as this Valvoline restore and protect? my 2023 subaru legacy has 21k on it and i’m using the amsoil ss