I'm using R&P in my Kia and my daughter's van. I've noticed a huge improvement in performance. Next up will be my son's 2004 Hemi. The van's valves and crank case were not sludged up and were fairly clean, used Valvoline full synthetic before. However, it was consuming oil. Oil consumption has decreased. I believe the piston rings were sticking. Valvoline is onto something with this R&P. I did a virgin sample oil analysis. The R&P has a nice Moly and additive package but from what I gathered from The Motor Oil Geek's video, it the chemistry down to the molecular level that makes it special. I highly recommend R&P except for GM cars that are under warranty as R&P is not Dexos approved.
@@AlbertoMtz560 You'll have to ask Valvoline. To become Dexos approved, the oil company must report everything to GM. If a blend changes anything such as base oils or additives, they have to reapply for the Dexos approval. Dexos only applies to GM. My guess is Valvoline will eventually get the Dexos approval in the future for R&P, but who knows besides Valvoline?
I'm seeing great results in my vehicles too! We're about to do our next oil change for round 2 with Valvoline Restore and Protect! It's working beautifully to restore power and performance in our high mileage vehicles. My Mazda has zoom zoom again and my wife's Altima is pulling like new! I purchased Valvoline Restore and Protect specifically for our 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T that was having an oil consumption problem but decided to put it in all of our vehicles. We are about 1,500 miles in and about to do the oil change, and already it's burning far less oil. This stuff works! (And for all those folks who say we weren't doing regular maintenance before this, that's not true. I always used full synthetic high mileage oil from Mobile 1 or Valvoline. Whichever was lower priced at the time. Every 4,000 miles.)
I spoke with Valvoline. They have no intention on making R&P Dexos approved as they already have Dexos approved oil. The reasons they gave me is it's expensive to get oils Dexos approved and they would have to give up trade secrets for the R&P formula. They recommend against using R&P in GM vehicles under warranty but say it exceeds Dexos and is ok to use in GM engines that aren't under warranty.
pretty good anecdotal info I just poured in my 1st Valvoline Restore & Protect yesterday. Some comments here expressed their oil filter' media was already filled up (visually) @ under 1000 miles while the oil in the sump remains pissed gold. I'll plan to swap out my filter just after 500 mi.
I have seen 1 bad review. Some guy put R&P into a slugded up engine... and plugged his oil filter in about 500 miles. Anyone with a slugged up engine needs a professional engine oil system flush to get the vast majority of the sludge out 1st.
@@RayleighCriterion you do it slowly throw some in like you said after 100 miles take it quickly. do an oil change. next time do it again and 3 or four times thats enough.
I'm seeing great results in my vehicles too! We're about to do our next oil change for round 2 with Valvoline Restore and Protect! It's working beautifully to restore power and performance in our high mileage vehicles. My Mazda has zoom zoom again and my wife's Altima is pulling like new! I purchased Valvoline Restore and Protect specifically for our 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T that was having an oil consumption problem but decided to put it in all of our vehicles. We are about 1,500 miles in and about to do the oil change, and already it's burning far less oil. This stuff works! (And for all those folks who say we weren't doing regular maintenance before this, that's not true. I always used full synthetic high mileage oil from Mobile 1 or Valvoline. Whichever was lower priced at the time. Every 4,000 miles.)
I would change the filter at somewhere between 500-1000 miles using that oil the first time since it helped out with cleaning the MDS screens. Otherwise happy to hear it's working better!
Just remember when switching to this oil you will need to shorten your oil change intervals at least for the first 3-4 oil changes especially if you only used conventional before. It will fill your oil filter with all the stuff it broke up. I change the oil in my 2010 mercury grand marquis every 2500 never follow dealership intervals.
Valvoline doesn't seem to think so (need to change early, Oil or Filter) if the vehicle is in good repair... If one can check the Filter during the Interval or noticing the Oil is becoming extremely Dark earlier then yeah be prepared to change early. Restore and Protect however has often been able to keep "clean" during 3-4K mile intervals, while leaving the "gunk" in the filter where it should be... Without overwhelming it. (Again, assuming the vehicle isn't poorly maintained or Sludged up)
@lgoamity They recommend a 4k mile interval, which is considerably shorter than some manufacturers' recommendations. That said, I wouldn't advise oil change intervals over 5k miles regardless.
@@execration_texts I'd tend to agree that a "short" interval between 3-5K is reasonable but What is your source for 4K? Valvoline doesn't usually suggest intervals shorter or longer then what is Factory Recommended (see FAQ entry below)... Think for some of its Piston Deposit Cleanup Examples use 4000 mile Intervals... But not certain that means a user cannot go whatever their Factory recommends. For my GMC that "technically" means my OLM @ most 7500 miles / 12 months... (Although for many users in practice using an Ecotec 2.4L egine, because of Risks of GDI Oil Dilution and Oil Consumption issues 3-5K/6 months or an OLM between 50-60% is a common "safe" interval to follow) Valvoline's FAQ on R&P says "3. How often should I use Restore & Protect? When it comes to Restore & Protect, consistency is key. Use Restore & Protect consistently as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer to get the best results."
I would change the oil filter halfway 2,500 miles running oil for 5,000. Just to make sure because it is cleaning and more debris than usual on the oil. Also using good oil filter rated for 10 or 15k miles.
Running a Fram Ultra Synthetic (20K miles) myself with VRP (over 1000 miles at the moment). When I checked Filter at 811 miles it was pitch black, originally filter was Snow White color, while the Oil still was clear/golden. Leaning towards taking an Oil Sample (for Analysis) at 2000 miles and Changing the Filter... Then repeating that every 2000 miles until the Analysis says to change (With my OLM the absolute limit is 7500/12 months. Other owners of my Model Engine recommend 3-5K/6 months/OLM 50-60% which I've been comfortable with so far. Because of High Oil Dilution (5.5%) on my first Oil Sample after a 3000 miles/8 month Interval (56% OLM), I've been mindful of changing my maintenance and driving style... Analysis now suggests I should be good for 5K at the moment... Hopefully if VRP does some more "Cleanup" that number will get nearer 7500 miles/12 months for a "possible" interval... Likely going to stick with 3-5K intervals for the foreseeable future... Unless I can "verify" performance
I’ve recently been using the Valvoline full synthetic high mileage blend. Pretty happy with it. Doing 5k mile oil changes and seems to have hardly any oil consumption between changes. I also use a Sea Foam flush in the oil on older or neglected cars when I first get them and don’t know the service history or it seems neglected.
The key with this oil seems to be the rate that the deposits are removed and dissolved. This oil is designed to slowly remove and dissolve the deposits which prevents clogging/gumming up of filters and catalytic converters.
Definitely use a good oil filter when doing any sort of clean up. Best Fram, Purolator Boss, Wix, or Mobil 1. They catch smaller particles and have better capacity. My 2 cents
Valvoline only claims that "Restore and Protect" motor oil ONLY is extra-good at cleaning off the piston ring black carbon junk, NOT sludge. Sludge is gooey softer crap that invades all over the inside of the engine, and is not the same as the hard carbon stuff on the piston oil-control ring. .... OK, that is the extent of Valvoline claims about this oil, and it is unique in that regard. However, sludge has been reported by some users as getting cleaned out too, and they proved that by showing the oil filter catching a lot of free-sludge goo after just 3,000 miles or so of usage. Conclusion: If it does indeed clean off sludge, change your oil filter every 3,000 miles for about 2 oil changes to be sure it is NOT getting clogged.
I've seen a few reviews on that oil and how good it is at cleaning. Valvoline has always made great stuff. MDS is the epa putting their noses where they don't belong. My highway average was 20/21 with all the EPA BS. After a tune completely disabling mds, switching to 0w40 , ditching my flowmaster for a straight thru muffler and deleting the active grill shutters i now average 23/25. Plus truck feels a million times better. Changing you oil sooner helps a ton.
I feel like all this EPA crap really hurts push rod motors due to its "simpler" and old school design, my DOHC 5.0 has that cylinder deactivation system and I get 25 mpg on regular, on highways, also my f150 has that active grill shutters and an air dam that drops down after 55 mph, at 32k of hard city/highway driving, hauling, towing, and some drag racing at the local strip (13.8 @100mph) it's been great so far 5w30 full syn motor craft. Coworker has a first gen f150 5.0 and has over 215k miles with no issues other than the cat, time will tell for my gen 4
People do not change oil frequently enough, time/mileage are important. I drive 2019 jeep Cherokee overland and 2016 Chrysler 200C AWD, both use Synthetic oil I never hit 5,000 miles oil change intervals so both get changed every 6 months. My last Chrysler 300M 03 had car for 18 years followed Maintenance schedule to the letter never had any failures with engine or transmission.
Use to use valvoline in the early and mid 90.s... think I might witch back. ( Valvoline advance ). There numbers on paper are very good. ( Ford boss man ) 😊
So you do the 4 or 5 oil changes, with the precautions. And your motor is "clean & revived." Do you keep running the VR&P, or can you go back to what you were running before? Say Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. ?
@@HuskerRed11 I’m going to go back to the Pennzoil after the 4-5 changes. I want it clean but don’t want to run the detergents permanently. I think when clean clean the Pennzoil should do great
Valvoline is one of the best oils on the market. Just don’t go past 4500 miles on any oil or filter. Plus use a quality fuel, any top tier brand is fine.
I was strictly an ultra platinum user until i saw the results for the restore and protect. My 5.7 durango definitely runs smoother now that I've switched. Not saying it will be noticeable for everyone but it really does help
5.4 cam phaser noise is gone the first few startups. Oil looked normal at 3000 miles and by 4000 it was the varnish color from inside the engine. 4000 miles oil change and chunks of sludge came out in the oil. I’ve never seen that and I do oil changes religiously at 4000 miles. Dip stick is clean of varnish and I’m on the second oil cycle.
The hemi has a high Camshaft. It's a really good distance between the crankshaft. The reason why a lot of Hemi's go bad and get the Hemi Tik and the engines are no good is because of the poor oil change intervals and MDS. When oil deteriorates it loses viscosity and breaks down and slowly becomes thicker and harder, when this happens the CamShaft and Lifters beak down because the are not being properly lubricated and eventually he lifters will fail. When MDS is active and shutdown cylinders then those Cylinders stop receiving proper lubrication. 3K miles or 3 months the engine is a 2003 Design yes technology and oil have gone a long way but the engine is still engineered for old methods of maintenance intervals. FYI the transmission needs to be serviced every 60k or 8 years and with every service the transmission filter must be replaced. It is not a sealed transmission and it is not lifetime fluid. ZF is the manufacture of the transmission and that the service intervals they recommend.
Just want to pint out that thye say it will clean UP 100% carbon deposits off of the PISTON RINGS, though it obviously will likely clean other parts to the engine. I have been does a video series on this oil and will be releasing a video soon on the patent behind this oil. Great video and thanks for your data point regarding this oil! The Volvoline Premium Blue is what they market as an engine cleaner.
@@reyfuentes4572Mileage and Month Intervals are meaningless if the vehicle engine is "dirty" or contaminating the Oil. Users of the Ecotec 2.4L like the one in my 2014 GMC Terrain (with its OLM allowing up to 7500 miles/12 months with a Dexos rated Oil) would claim it should not be run more then 3-5K miles/6 months or below OLM 50-60%... My first Oil Sample Analysis for my Terrain was after 3000 miles/8 months and OLM at 56%. The Oil Dilution (because of Short Tripping and excess idling) was at 5.5% and I should have probably changed that Oil much sooner. I "could" have relied on the OLM more and maybe changed it at 25% or nearer to 12 months but given the Dilution problem... It would have just been even worse. After making adjustments I'm down to 1.3% Dilution and Analysis suggests 5000 miles but I'm doubtful I'll ever go an entire 12 months or even 6000 miles on this Engine per OCI. There is just too much "history" of other users relying on the OLM (and ignoring Oil Dilution,Oil Consumption, and other design problems) leading to premature Timing Chain, Engine and/or Seal failures from bad PCV system design...
had same issues with 2007 dodge durango with same engine before it would go in and out lot with hwy speeds and now use 5 - 20 castro 7 quarts and a mopar oil filter now its very smooth from normal to mds mode and before the oil and filter change it would give a code about number 6 deactivtion malfuntion mds valve
I saw some significant improvements in my Ecotec 2.4L engine (180K) using Yamalube Ring Free Plus and Seafoam High Mileage motor treatment. I have much better acceleration between 1000 to 3000 RMP now and my fuel economy has improved. The Valvoline is good in all respects except for the price, and the Yamalube is also up there in price ($20 to $25).
I started using Valvoline back 2005/2006 when I had 83 Oldsmobile Delta 88 that was smoking like crazy, switch oil companies and she was barely smoking. Been using Valvoline since…
MDS is BAD NEWS! The Government is trying to take away your V8 from you. Honda had that on the V6. It was constantly fouling #3 cylinder. They ruin the expensive motor mounts too. I got me a device that shuts it off so I always have a V6. Anything environmentally friendly is inferior.
A word of caution to anyone reading this. This stuff cleans so well it can and will send gunk up into your vct system causing issues. Dont use this in an old gunked up engine it will clog the oil pickup tube. Maybe try 1-2 qts per oil change on an old gunked engine. And you absolutely must change the filter after the first 1k unless you are certain your engine is already clean and you are using this as preventative measures. Trust me I have seen and heard stories of this oil causing issues when used on higher mileage engines. Use with caution.
It's really not THAT aggressive, though...oil testing analysis on new, unused oil has already confirmed that Valvoline MaxLife high mileage had more cleaning detergents in it( calcium & magnesium) than Restore & Protect! Both Amsoil & Royal Purple have pretty aggressive detergent packages included with them as well probably more than Restore & Protect...
On my 2024 RAM 2500 with the 6.4 Hemi you can shut it off in two ways: A. Put into Tow/Haul mode or B. When in DRIVE use the manual shift +/- button and toggle up to gear 8 and this will allow the truck to shift normally, but won't allow MDS to activate
MMO, WD40, seafoam are all good general purpose cleaners but should never be added to engine oil or gasoline/diesel. If you "need" an additive in your engine oil then you're using the wrong oil.
@@corruption1724 ... not 'bro-tella'. does anyone read what the additive packages are in oils anymore? the t6 was originally designed for diesel engines, but has been expanded to gasoline engines. It used to have high zinc and calcium (zddp) additive pkg; but that has been linked to low speed pre-ignition issues in turbo cars so the T6 additive pkg has been changed....
@@reyfuentes4572 I would love to see an oil analysis after 10k. 20w starts off watery. My ram calls for 5w20. First 3 changes i did that but then said to myself "wtf am I doing". Immediately went to 0w40 and even 5w50 for last summers change.
I’ve had 3 oil changes with my ram 05 1500 and it’s made a HUUUUUGE difference in how this thing behaves. Try taking some seafoam in the oil before the next change to help boost the cleaning power.
Don’t do seafoam with any oil. The seafoam may cancel out the additive package in the oil. RUclips “The Motor Oil Geek” and he talks specifically about oil additives. You’re playing chemical Russian roulette with oil additives. This Restore and Protect oil is good in and of itself.
@@QuangBui-yq9dv yeah the oils viscosity was obviously less than it was before but the benefits from the flush are apparent. I drove just over 300 miles and changed it. I don’t plan to flush for a while and keep pumping this new oil through as I didn’t know how the previous owner took care of the vehicle before me.
Prepare to overspend on those brands. Amsoil and HPL are very good at cleaning and keeping clean, but you will pay way more than Valvoline Restore and Protect, probably on average twice the cost for these other 4 boutique brands. For the money you cannot beat Valvoline Restore and Protect. I with they had a 10W-40 and a 15 or 20W-50 in this oil! Australia has 10W-40 R&P, but not USA😢
This oil is made to remove the carbon build up on the piston rings especially when the bottom oiling ring. Sludge removal is just a side effect of the oil. Stuck oil rings cause engines to use and burn oil. It wasn't necessarily designed for sludge removal.
This doesn't have to do with build up on the bottom end of the engine. Restore and protect specifically targets carbon deposits on the top end of the engine which is contributing to a lot of the engine oil consumption that is happening with multiple manufacturers. I was having the same issue and I changed my oil before the oil intervals.
@@DroneVideo0412 You do not know what you are talking about. This oil was made to remove the carbon build-up from the piston rings especially the bottom portion of the rings to reduce oil usage and cleaner combustion chamber. The following video is Lake Speed Jr who is a Tribologist and is at the Valvoline facility especially for Restore and Protect. The oil actually cleans carbon deposits and sludge out of the upper and lower parts of the engine, but the design was to remove carbon from the piston rings. Watch the video of you want the facts directly from the professionals and designers plus Lake Speed Jr, the utmost guru in the industry. Changing your OCI's just reduces the time it takes for your engine to use oil. How is that a fix? Were you doing super long OCI's or something? Max 5000-mile oil changes, if you want your engine to last and not form deposits and last for hundreds of thousands of miles. ruclips.net/video/kyyZDghgdCI/видео.html
@@Balticblue93 No fucking shit. You really think so. My car which is a Honda calls for a 10k oil change interval. 10k. In fact I watched the episode with Lake Speed Jr and Dave’s Auto Center plus I’ve followed other techs in the industry and oil is breaking down before the 10k intervals so I change at 5k. Does this make you feel better? Are you smarter than all of us now? Dumbass know it all.
Why would Valvoline need to pay someone to use Restore and Protect? It's an API SP/GF6 rated Oil... If you pick it up at Walmart or similar places... A 5 Quart Jug can run you under $30. Since other Name Brand Full Synthetic Oil Jugs can be had for just $3-4 or may $10 less... That is basically NOTHING if you actually are trying to use it to remove Carbon Deposits and/or Reduce Oil Consumption because of Deposits... If you consider what just 1 or 2 Quarts of Full Synthetic costs... If you are burning that much it'll pay for itself quick AND "save" that $5-7 a quart going forward... THEN there is the Bonus if you aren't Burning the Oil... Your Engine Oil can actually do its Job, maybe last longer because of less wear/blow-by/Oil Dilution... All free tips off the Top of my Head... No charge or Check from Valvoline... Although Valvoline I wouldn't turn away free Product or endorsement money... :)
@@2seep Yep. New or Old. "Clean" or "Dirty". It's an API SP/GF-6 Oil... So if your Engine can use that Spec... Use it and "Forget" that it is doing Deposit Removal and keeping it "Clean"
It will clean the oil passages where the MDS solenoid actuates resulting in it working better, I have replaced the solenoids and have seen oil sludge build up on them. So it may have made his motor work better if those are activating and deactivating cylinders like they are supposed too.
That didn’t fix your MDS change your oil every 4000 miles or 4 months I have a 2014 ram 5.7 I use pennzoil ultra from day one every 4 months because I don’t drive it very much That perfect and restore I have heard it’s good oil , but I stay with pennzoil ultra Good video
Let me see these guys you wouldn't have to use Valvoline restore and protect if you stay on top of your oil change requirements that itself is nothing but a neglect from the owner who calls their engine to have sludge Bill up extended beyond the service oil change requirements but not only that you have to do your homework on the signs of the oil brand you're using there's oils that has enough detergent to keep that from happening that are considered to be high quality oil brands maintaining oil change requirements not overextending the oil life which goes into sludge changes all oils what do that if you wait too long to get a oil change all eats oil brand has a specific mild protection that is good enough after that the oil will start to break down and turn into sludge that itself is common sense about how old is behave the best quality oils that has good slush protection and high cleaning additives is Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State or Royal Purple which is the most expensive oil on the market it is the strongest oil on the market as well as Valvoline advanced but the key is changing your oil at the oil change requirements and you won't have this problem and you won't have to use Valvoline restoring and protect but also my advice stay away from mobile one it has the worst film strength on the market because it gets very thin when it's warm which will increase engine wear
@@carlalexander7630 well that's why it's called a used car it's been used and possibly neglect but this is why you need to do your homework because motor oil is the blood life of your engine just like the blood in your body is your life but other than that it's important to open up that oil cap to see what is looking like as far as how the last owner kept up the oil change and that will let you know what you're dealing with if it has too much varnish and or too much sludge Bill up from a lack of getting oil change on time then you know what you got to deal with
@@darrylcurley6200Nice thing about using "R&P" is that you can just use it for your Regular OIl Change. As an API SP/GF-6 Oil Valvoline is expecting people to use it like their current Oil, changing at regular service intervals. If others, like this Video's Creator claims he is already using quality Oils and not over extending intervals but are still having issues "R&P" might just be a "Win-Win" for many. It is Full Synthetic that is rated for use where ever API SP/GF-6 is called for... So if it can clean a little Varnish or A LOT of Carbon/Sludge over say 4-5K miles that a "regular" SP/GF-6 couldn't... No harm done.
I'm using R&P in my Kia and my daughter's van. I've noticed a huge improvement in performance. Next up will be my son's 2004 Hemi. The van's valves and crank case were not sludged up and were fairly clean, used Valvoline full synthetic before. However, it was consuming oil. Oil consumption has decreased. I believe the piston rings were sticking. Valvoline is onto something with this R&P. I did a virgin sample oil analysis. The R&P has a nice Moly and additive package but from what I gathered from The Motor Oil Geek's video, it the chemistry down to the molecular level that makes it special. I highly recommend R&P except for GM cars that are under warranty as R&P is not Dexos approved.
Why is not dexos approved? The valvoline R&P?
@@AlbertoMtz560 You'll have to ask Valvoline. To become Dexos approved, the oil company must report everything to GM. If a blend changes anything such as base oils or additives, they have to reapply for the Dexos approval. Dexos only applies to GM. My guess is Valvoline will eventually get the Dexos approval in the future for R&P, but who knows besides Valvoline?
I'm seeing great results in my vehicles too! We're about to do our next oil change for round 2 with Valvoline Restore and Protect! It's working beautifully to restore power and performance in our high mileage vehicles. My Mazda has zoom zoom again and my wife's Altima is pulling like new! I purchased Valvoline Restore and Protect specifically for our 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T that was having an oil consumption problem but decided to put it in all of our vehicles. We are about 1,500 miles in and about to do the oil change, and already it's burning far less oil. This stuff works! (And for all those folks who say we weren't doing regular maintenance before this, that's not true. I always used full synthetic high mileage oil from Mobile 1 or Valvoline. Whichever was lower priced at the time. Every 4,000 miles.)
I spoke with Valvoline. They have no intention on making R&P Dexos approved as they already have Dexos approved oil. The reasons they gave me is it's expensive to get oils Dexos approved and they would have to give up trade secrets for the R&P formula. They recommend against using R&P in GM vehicles under warranty but say it exceeds Dexos and is ok to use in GM engines that aren't under warranty.
pretty good anecdotal info
I just poured in my 1st Valvoline Restore & Protect yesterday.
Some comments here expressed their oil filter' media was already filled up (visually) @ under 1000 miles while the oil in the sump remains pissed gold.
I'll plan to swap out my filter just after 500 mi.
Smart...
That stuff helps every engine, I honestly haven’t seen one bad review. Waiting for my next oil change to switch.
Why wait, just throw some Seafoam into the crankcase 100 to 300 miles before your oil change, it does essentially the same thing but cheaper.
I have seen 1 bad review. Some guy put R&P into a slugded up engine... and plugged his oil filter in about 500 miles.
Anyone with a slugged up engine needs a professional engine oil system flush to get the vast majority of the sludge out 1st.
@@perryallan3524 exactly thats why you hear so many bad things about engine flushes etc
@@RayleighCriterion you do it slowly throw some in like you said after 100 miles take it quickly. do an oil change. next time do it again and 3 or four times thats enough.
I'm seeing great results in my vehicles too! We're about to do our next oil change for round 2 with Valvoline Restore and Protect! It's working beautifully to restore power and performance in our high mileage vehicles. My Mazda has zoom zoom again and my wife's Altima is pulling like new! I purchased Valvoline Restore and Protect specifically for our 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T that was having an oil consumption problem but decided to put it in all of our vehicles. We are about 1,500 miles in and about to do the oil change, and already it's burning far less oil. This stuff works! (And for all those folks who say we weren't doing regular maintenance before this, that's not true. I always used full synthetic high mileage oil from Mobile 1 or Valvoline. Whichever was lower priced at the time. Every 4,000 miles.)
I would change the filter at somewhere between 500-1000 miles using that oil the first time since it helped out with cleaning the MDS screens. Otherwise happy to hear it's working better!
Just remember when switching to this oil you will need to shorten your oil change intervals at least for the first 3-4 oil changes especially if you only used conventional before. It will fill your oil filter with all the stuff it broke up. I change the oil in my 2010 mercury grand marquis every 2500 never follow dealership intervals.
Valvoline doesn't seem to think so (need to change early, Oil or Filter) if the vehicle is in good repair...
If one can check the Filter during the Interval or noticing the Oil is becoming extremely Dark earlier then yeah be prepared to change early. Restore and Protect however has often been able to keep "clean" during 3-4K mile intervals, while leaving the "gunk" in the filter where it should be... Without overwhelming it. (Again, assuming the vehicle isn't poorly maintained or Sludged up)
@lgoamity
They recommend a 4k mile interval, which is considerably shorter than some manufacturers' recommendations. That said, I wouldn't advise oil change intervals over 5k miles regardless.
@@execration_texts I'd tend to agree that a "short" interval between 3-5K is reasonable but What is your source for 4K?
Valvoline doesn't usually suggest intervals shorter or longer then what is Factory Recommended (see FAQ entry below)... Think for some of its Piston Deposit Cleanup Examples use 4000 mile Intervals... But not certain that means a user cannot go whatever their Factory recommends.
For my GMC that "technically" means my OLM @ most 7500 miles / 12 months... (Although for many users in practice using an Ecotec 2.4L egine, because of Risks of GDI Oil Dilution and Oil Consumption issues 3-5K/6 months or an OLM between 50-60% is a common "safe" interval to follow)
Valvoline's FAQ on R&P says
"3. How often should I use Restore & Protect?
When it comes to Restore & Protect, consistency is key. Use Restore & Protect consistently as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer to get the best results."
Just check ur oil. Wipe dip stick on a clean white PT and check color.
I would change the oil filter halfway 2,500 miles running oil for 5,000. Just to make sure because it is cleaning and more debris than usual on the oil. Also using good oil filter rated for 10 or 15k miles.
Change the filter too. Could be more plugged than you know
Running a Fram Ultra Synthetic (20K miles) myself with VRP (over 1000 miles at the moment). When I checked Filter at 811 miles it was pitch black, originally filter was Snow White color, while the Oil still was clear/golden.
Leaning towards taking an Oil Sample (for Analysis) at 2000 miles and Changing the Filter... Then repeating that every 2000 miles until the Analysis says to change (With my OLM the absolute limit is 7500/12 months. Other owners of my Model Engine recommend 3-5K/6 months/OLM 50-60% which I've been comfortable with so far. Because of High Oil Dilution (5.5%) on my first Oil Sample after a 3000 miles/8 month Interval (56% OLM), I've been mindful of changing my maintenance and driving style... Analysis now suggests I should be good for 5K at the moment... Hopefully if VRP does some more "Cleanup" that number will get nearer 7500 miles/12 months for a "possible" interval... Likely going to stick with 3-5K intervals for the foreseeable future... Unless I can "verify" performance
I’ve recently been using the Valvoline full synthetic high mileage blend. Pretty happy with it. Doing 5k mile oil changes and seems to have hardly any oil consumption between changes. I also use a Sea Foam flush in the oil on older or neglected cars when I first get them and don’t know the service history or it seems neglected.
The key with this oil seems to be the rate that the deposits are removed and dissolved. This oil is designed to slowly remove and dissolve the deposits which prevents clogging/gumming up of filters and catalytic converters.
Restore and Protect is the best oil I've ever put in my car 💪🏻
Definitely use a good oil filter when doing any sort of clean up. Best Fram, Purolator Boss, Wix, or Mobil 1. They catch smaller particles and have better capacity. My 2 cents
Sounds like it did help clean them selenoid oil passages. Was a good video to share thanks for posting.
Thank you yes that was my thinking.
Valvoline only claims that "Restore and Protect" motor oil ONLY is extra-good at cleaning off the piston ring black carbon junk, NOT sludge. Sludge is gooey softer crap that invades all over the inside of the engine, and is not the same as the hard carbon stuff on the piston oil-control ring. .... OK, that is the extent of Valvoline claims about this oil, and it is unique in that regard. However, sludge has been reported by some users as getting cleaned out too, and they proved that by showing the oil filter catching a lot of free-sludge goo after just 3,000 miles or so of usage. Conclusion: If it does indeed clean off sludge, change your oil filter every 3,000 miles for about 2 oil changes to be sure it is NOT getting clogged.
just about all modern oils have a bit of esters in them. Esters clean including sludge.
The claim is "UP to 100%", the "up" is very important. I have tried it and am happy with it, but do not expect 100% in every case.
The Australian version of VRP helpful clarifies "Up to 99%"... Likely to make sure people aren't upset when VRP "missed a spot" after say 20K miles.
Not only that is the fact that it cleans UP to 100% over time, not immediately
I've seen a few reviews on that oil and how good it is at cleaning. Valvoline has always made great stuff. MDS is the epa putting their noses where they don't belong. My highway average was 20/21 with all the EPA BS. After a tune completely disabling mds, switching to 0w40 , ditching my flowmaster for a straight thru muffler and deleting the active grill shutters i now average 23/25. Plus truck feels a million times better. Changing you oil sooner helps a ton.
I feel like all this EPA crap really hurts push rod motors due to its "simpler" and old school design, my DOHC 5.0 has that cylinder deactivation system and I get 25 mpg on regular, on highways, also my f150 has that active grill shutters and an air dam that drops down after 55 mph, at 32k of hard city/highway driving, hauling, towing, and some drag racing at the local strip (13.8 @100mph) it's been great so far 5w30 full syn motor craft. Coworker has a first gen f150 5.0 and has over 215k miles with no issues other than the cat, time will tell for my gen 4
where did you get your tune? i want to tune mine
Did you do shorter intervals? I was wondering would the build up clean out clog up the filter?
People do not change oil frequently enough, time/mileage are important.
I drive 2019 jeep Cherokee overland and 2016 Chrysler 200C AWD, both use Synthetic oil I never hit 5,000 miles oil change intervals so both get changed every 6 months.
My last Chrysler 300M 03 had car for 18 years followed Maintenance schedule to the letter never had any failures with engine or transmission.
Use to use valvoline in the early and mid 90.s... think I might witch back. ( Valvoline advance ). There numbers on paper are very good. ( Ford boss man ) 😊
So you do the 4 or 5 oil changes, with the precautions. And your motor is "clean & revived." Do you keep running the VR&P, or can you go back to what you were running before? Say Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. ?
@@HuskerRed11 I’m going to go back to the Pennzoil after the 4-5 changes. I want it clean but don’t want to run the detergents permanently. I think when clean clean the Pennzoil should do great
I have a 2016 HEMI ram & this oil seems to have helped my tick as well.
Valvoline is one of the best oils on the market. Just don’t go past 4500 miles on any oil or filter. Plus use a quality fuel, any top tier brand is fine.
Always use Pennzoil Platinum and now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Best oil money can buy.
Valvoline got them beat..
I was strictly an ultra platinum user until i saw the results for the restore and protect. My 5.7 durango definitely runs smoother now that I've switched. Not saying it will be noticeable for everyone but it really does help
Pennzoil is one of the best oils out there they start from a cleaner source by it being natural gas instead of crude oil !
5.4 cam phaser noise is gone the first few startups. Oil looked normal at 3000 miles and by 4000 it was the varnish color from inside the engine. 4000 miles oil change and chunks of sludge came out in the oil. I’ve never seen that and I do oil changes religiously at 4000 miles. Dip stick is clean of varnish and I’m on the second oil cycle.
The hemi has a high Camshaft. It's a really good distance between the crankshaft. The reason why a lot of Hemi's go bad and get the Hemi Tik and the engines are no good is because of the poor oil change intervals and MDS. When oil deteriorates it loses viscosity and breaks down and slowly becomes thicker and harder, when this happens the CamShaft and Lifters beak down because the are not being properly lubricated and eventually he lifters will fail. When MDS is active and shutdown cylinders then those Cylinders stop receiving proper lubrication. 3K miles or 3 months the engine is a 2003 Design yes technology and oil have gone a long way but the engine is still engineered for old methods of maintenance intervals.
FYI the transmission needs to be serviced every 60k or 8 years and with every service the transmission filter must be replaced. It is not a sealed transmission and it is not lifetime fluid. ZF is the manufacture of the transmission and that the service intervals they recommend.
I would service the trans fluid more often than that. That is a minimum for sure.
Just want to pint out that thye say it will clean UP 100% carbon deposits off of the PISTON RINGS, though it obviously will likely clean other parts to the engine. I have been does a video series on this oil and will be releasing a video soon on the patent behind this oil. Great video and thanks for your data point regarding this oil! The Volvoline Premium Blue is what they market as an engine cleaner.
Looking forward to your video, thanks!
@@marstedt the video is processing right now and it will be ready for viewing in about 20 minutes!
On old vehicles change your filter a few times on the first couple oil changes.
I wonder if it is harmful over time.
I am curious how your oil filter will look. Great vid
I’m going to open it up and check when I change it. My wife’s 4Runner too as it has a cartridge filter
How often were you changing the oil before the valvoline?
Had the same question in my mind as well
4K ish. Pennzoil platinum synthetic oil.
@@FootToTheFloor138 before 6 months or over 6 months?
@@davidfernandez4731shouldn't matter due to that oil can last up to a year
@@reyfuentes4572Mileage and Month Intervals are meaningless if the vehicle engine is "dirty" or contaminating the Oil.
Users of the Ecotec 2.4L like the one in my 2014 GMC Terrain (with its OLM allowing up to 7500 miles/12 months with a Dexos rated Oil) would claim it should not be run more then 3-5K miles/6 months or below OLM 50-60%...
My first Oil Sample Analysis for my Terrain was after 3000 miles/8 months and OLM at 56%. The Oil Dilution (because of Short Tripping and excess idling) was at 5.5% and I should have probably changed that Oil much sooner. I "could" have relied on the OLM more and maybe changed it at 25% or nearer to 12 months but given the Dilution problem... It would have just been even worse.
After making adjustments I'm down to 1.3% Dilution and Analysis suggests 5000 miles but I'm doubtful I'll ever go an entire 12 months or even 6000 miles on this Engine per OCI. There is just too much "history" of other users relying on the OLM (and ignoring Oil Dilution,Oil Consumption, and other design problems) leading to premature Timing Chain, Engine and/or Seal failures from bad PCV system design...
had same issues with 2007 dodge durango with same engine before it would go in and out lot with hwy speeds and now use 5 - 20 castro 7 quarts and a mopar oil filter now its very smooth from normal to mds mode and before the oil and filter change it would give a code about number 6 deactivtion malfuntion mds valve
I saw some significant improvements in my Ecotec 2.4L engine (180K) using Yamalube Ring Free Plus and Seafoam High Mileage motor treatment. I have much better acceleration between 1000 to 3000 RMP now and my fuel economy has improved. The Valvoline is good in all respects except for the price, and the Yamalube is also up there in price ($20 to $25).
I started using Valvoline back 2005/2006 when I had 83 Oldsmobile Delta 88 that was smoking like crazy, switch oil companies and she was barely smoking. Been using Valvoline since…
I've always used Valvoline products and this restore and protect is pretty awesome stuff
MDS is BAD NEWS! The Government is trying to take away your V8 from you. Honda had that on the V6. It was constantly fouling #3 cylinder. They ruin the expensive motor mounts too. I got me a device that shuts it off so I always have a V6. Anything environmentally friendly is inferior.
Older v6s prior to 2015
A word of caution to anyone reading this. This stuff cleans so well it can and will send gunk up into your vct system causing issues. Dont use this in an old gunked up engine it will clog the oil pickup tube. Maybe try 1-2 qts per oil change on an old gunked engine.
And you absolutely must change the filter after the first 1k unless you are certain your engine is already clean and you are using this as preventative measures.
Trust me I have seen and heard stories of this oil causing issues when used on higher mileage engines. Use with caution.
Yeah I mention this at the end
It's really not THAT aggressive, though...oil testing analysis on new, unused oil has already confirmed that Valvoline MaxLife high mileage had more cleaning detergents in it( calcium & magnesium) than Restore & Protect! Both Amsoil & Royal Purple have pretty aggressive detergent packages included with them as well probably more than Restore & Protect...
I used it and it rebuilt my engine while I drove!
Can you shut that system off?
On my 2024 RAM 2500 with the 6.4 Hemi you can shut it off in two ways: A. Put into Tow/Haul mode or B. When in DRIVE use the manual shift +/- button and toggle up to gear 8 and this will allow the truck to shift normally, but won't allow MDS to activate
No you can’t with this model. Some of the trucks you can but I haven’t figured it out without buying a tuner.
Do you live in Chattanooga? Because your driving right where I live lol
I run valvoline extended protection/high mileage 5w30 in my 2016 hemi ,,,,,GTL BASE motor runs so smooth and quiet ..... oil stays clean 4-5k oci
Have you had any check engine lights running 5w30
@@jaywattman199I run 5/30 in my 2017 Ram 1500 hemi. No CEL. It’s fine. Works better than 5/20. The twenty is only for better MPG of about .005 mpg.
@jaywattman199 no motor runs great on valvoline hm/fs 5w30
Valvoline restore and protect did not do anything for the crack in is windshield.
You gotta give it 1500-2000 miles 😂
No that’s all me lol
Excellent
Did you try Marvel mystery oil In your previous oil change/changes first?
MMO is good smelling snake oil....
Snake oil
MMO, WD40, seafoam are all good general purpose cleaners but should never be added to engine oil or gasoline/diesel. If you "need" an additive in your engine oil then you're using the wrong oil.
Fuel additives (PEA) are a useful additive that will actually clean injectors, valves, etc. Engine oil additives are a big NO.
Did you run 5w20 or 5w30??
I’m running 5w30. Have for awhile.
Run Rotella T6 5W-40.
@@corruption1724 ... not 'bro-tella'. does anyone read what the additive packages are in oils anymore? the t6 was originally designed for diesel engines, but has been expanded to gasoline engines. It used to have high zinc and calcium (zddp) additive pkg; but that has been linked to low speed pre-ignition issues in turbo cars so the T6 additive pkg has been changed....
Schaffers supreme 9000!
You should pour some Valvoline R&P oil on your windshield and rub it in. Might fix that huge crack there as well.
Haha I was about to say the same thing 😂
Marvel Mystery oil works wonders too!
@OfficialNakatsuMegami You dont leave it in, only for about 10 miles then do a change
up to 100%
I feel better now. I just ordered 2 jugs, 01 Ford V10.
If you did regular oil changes at 3500-4000mile you would not have ENGINE SLUG !
I do my oil changes at 30k intervals religiously on the dot! So... I might have sludge.
@@jkmarshall3553 I do mine every 100k
Every 3k in my hemi. Sometimes sooner depending on usage.
Every 10k in my tundra 0w20 Toyota full synthetic...no sludge, tick, or oil consumption at 115k miles
@@reyfuentes4572 I would love to see an oil analysis after 10k. 20w starts off watery. My ram calls for 5w20. First 3 changes i did that but then said to myself "wtf am I doing". Immediately went to 0w40 and even 5w50 for last summers change.
👍
I’ve had 3 oil changes with my ram 05 1500 and it’s made a HUUUUUGE difference in how this thing behaves. Try taking some seafoam in the oil before the next change to help boost the cleaning power.
Seafoam is just Coleman Lantern fuel.....
I would put seafoam in the same category as WD40 & MMO. If you want cleaning, add a PEA additive to your gasoline (techron or similar).
Don’t do seafoam with any oil. The seafoam may cancel out the additive package in the oil. RUclips “The Motor Oil Geek” and he talks specifically about oil additives. You’re playing chemical Russian roulette with oil additives. This Restore and Protect oil is good in and of itself.
@@QuangBui-yq9dv yeah the oils viscosity was obviously less than it was before but the benefits from the flush are apparent. I drove just over 300 miles and changed it. I don’t plan to flush for a while and keep pumping this new oil through as I didn’t know how the previous owner took care of the vehicle before me.
I will check it out, thanks for the info.
good ole Hwy 153
Ayyyyyy! 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Switch to Schaeffers or Lubrication Engineers oil, it'll make a difference.
I’m running this for now, I’ll look into those brands though
Prepare to overspend on those brands. Amsoil and HPL are very good at cleaning and keeping clean, but you will pay way more than Valvoline Restore and Protect, probably on average twice the cost for these other 4 boutique brands. For the money you cannot beat Valvoline Restore and Protect. I with they had a 10W-40 and a 15 or 20W-50 in this oil! Australia has 10W-40 R&P, but not USA😢
redline every 3000 miles
U can also use seafoam. Put it in the oil a few hundred miles before it's changed. It'll help clean the internals of the motor.
Not putting any thing but oil in my crankcase. U mess up the additive profile. Asking for trouble.
@mikeporro3311 u don't use it the whole time. Just towards the end. Seafoam is one of the actual things that work.
Delusional that last one
Your engine has roller followers on the cam shaft😂 your simple oil change doesn't fix a bad design that eventually fails.😂
If took care of your car and used good oil and changed it on time, there shouldn’t any sludge or deposits to be removed.
This oil is made to remove the carbon build up on the piston rings especially when the bottom oiling ring. Sludge removal is just a side effect of the oil. Stuck oil rings cause engines to use and burn oil. It wasn't necessarily designed for sludge removal.
This doesn't have to do with build up on the bottom end of the engine. Restore and protect specifically targets carbon deposits on the top end of the engine which is contributing to a lot of the engine oil consumption that is happening with multiple manufacturers. I was having the same issue and I changed my oil before the oil intervals.
@@DroneVideo0412 You do not know what you are talking about. This oil was made to remove the carbon build-up from the piston rings especially the bottom portion of the rings to reduce oil usage and cleaner combustion chamber. The following video is Lake Speed Jr who is a Tribologist and is at the Valvoline facility especially for Restore and Protect.
The oil actually cleans carbon deposits and sludge out of the upper and lower parts of the engine, but the design was to remove carbon from the piston rings. Watch the video of you want the facts directly from the professionals and designers plus Lake Speed Jr, the utmost guru in the industry.
Changing your OCI's just reduces the time it takes for your engine to use oil. How is that a fix? Were you doing super long OCI's or something? Max 5000-mile oil changes, if you want your engine to last and not form deposits and last for hundreds of thousands of miles.
ruclips.net/video/kyyZDghgdCI/видео.html
Yeah you know cause everybody buys their cars brand new lol.
@@Balticblue93 No fucking shit. You really think so. My car which is a Honda calls for a 10k oil change interval. 10k. In fact I watched the episode with Lake Speed Jr and Dave’s Auto Center plus I’ve followed other techs in the industry and oil is breaking down before the 10k intervals so I change at 5k. Does this make you feel better? Are you smarter than all of us now? Dumbass know it all.
Lmao 😂😂
...Ain't nuttin' 'gon fix that dang 'ol 🗑️ Hemi hahaaa
@@James-rk6go but it did soooo…yeah.
How much did you get payed by valvoline?
I'm using it now, heard about it from the (motor oil Geek) got it at Walmart about a month ago. So far so good. You have to see his video on it.
Why would Valvoline need to pay someone to use Restore and Protect? It's an API SP/GF6 rated Oil... If you pick it up at Walmart or similar places... A 5 Quart Jug can run you under $30. Since other Name Brand Full Synthetic Oil Jugs can be had for just $3-4 or may $10 less... That is basically NOTHING if you actually are trying to use it to remove Carbon Deposits and/or Reduce Oil Consumption because of Deposits...
If you consider what just 1 or 2 Quarts of Full Synthetic costs... If you are burning that much it'll pay for itself quick AND "save" that $5-7 a quart going forward...
THEN there is the Bonus if you aren't Burning the Oil... Your Engine Oil can actually do its Job, maybe last longer because of less wear/blow-by/Oil Dilution...
All free tips off the Top of my Head... No charge or Check from Valvoline... Although Valvoline I wouldn't turn away free Product or endorsement money... :)
It does work for dirty engines. Like if you don’t do maintenance
@@2seep Yep. New or Old. "Clean" or "Dirty". It's an API SP/GF-6 Oil... So if your Engine can use that Spec... Use it and "Forget" that it is doing Deposit Removal and keeping it "Clean"
Lol I wish. Not a dime.
I am very leary about any miracle product like this.
Oil did not fix ur hemi 😅😅😅
Sounds like someone hasn’t heard of Valvoline Restore Gen2 made specifically to correct Cummins motors 😂
Listen sometimes, you might learn something.
Yeah I guess I noticed an immediate difference for some other reason.
It will clean the oil passages where the MDS solenoid actuates resulting in it working better, I have replaced the solenoids and have seen oil sludge build up on them. So it may have made his motor work better if those are activating and deactivating cylinders like they are supposed too.
That didn’t fix your MDS change your oil every 4000 miles or 4 months
I have a 2014 ram 5.7 I use pennzoil ultra from day one every 4 months because I don’t drive it very much
That perfect and restore I have heard it’s good oil , but I stay with pennzoil ultra
Good video
Do you use pennzoil 5w-20 or 5w-30?
Pennzoil ultra 5w20
Hey! its like telling people that my pee cleaned my toilet... 😅😅😅
Wat
Um,but ,a,like,uuh,so,um,like,hum.
Hey I’m working on it alright. Where’s your videos?
BS. The oil isnt magic
It’s basically an engine flush mixed with the oil. Only helps with dirty engines.
Never claimed it was, But seeing as that’s what it was designed to do with it, would it not make sense that that is what it’s doing?
Let me see these guys you wouldn't have to use Valvoline restore and protect if you stay on top of your oil change requirements that itself is nothing but a neglect from the owner who calls their engine to have sludge Bill up extended beyond the service oil change requirements but not only that you have to do your homework on the signs of the oil brand you're using there's oils that has enough detergent to keep that from happening that are considered to be high quality oil brands maintaining oil change requirements not overextending the oil life which goes into sludge changes all oils what do that if you wait too long to get a oil change all eats oil brand has a specific mild protection that is good enough after that the oil will start to break down and turn into sludge that itself is common sense about how old is behave the best quality oils that has good slush protection and high cleaning additives is Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State or Royal Purple which is the most expensive oil on the market it is the strongest oil on the market as well as Valvoline advanced but the key is changing your oil at the oil change requirements and you won't have this problem and you won't have to use Valvoline restoring and protect but also my advice stay away from mobile one it has the worst film strength on the market because it gets very thin when it's warm which will increase engine wear
When buying a used car you can’t be certain how they treated it.
@@carlalexander7630 well that's why it's called a used car it's been used and possibly neglect but this is why you need to do your homework because motor oil is the blood life of your engine just like the blood in your body is your life but other than that it's important to open up that oil cap to see what is looking like as far as how the last owner kept up the oil change and that will let you know what you're dealing with if it has too much varnish and or too much sludge Bill up from a lack of getting oil change on time then you know what you got to deal with
@@darrylcurley6200Nice thing about using "R&P" is that you can just use it for your Regular OIl Change.
As an API SP/GF-6 Oil Valvoline is expecting people to use it like their current Oil, changing at regular service intervals. If others, like this Video's Creator claims he is already using quality Oils and not over extending intervals but are still having issues "R&P" might just be a "Win-Win" for many. It is Full Synthetic that is rated for use where ever API SP/GF-6 is called for... So if it can clean a little Varnish or A LOT of Carbon/Sludge over say 4-5K miles that a "regular" SP/GF-6 couldn't... No harm done.
You gotta fix that cracked windshield man, that’s unacceptable
Why , it’s up high , not in the way .
Oh I know lol. Procrastinating
First problem is your driving a Chrysler product but yes that oil is great it works well in my Toyota
NAILED IT!!! 🎯
My 300S 5.7 modded runs better than whatever you drive and is faster! Mopar 🦾
So you are a scab driving a scab made product, well done loser
Car runs perfectly. No issues.
@@SilkCityOGfaster to the bone yard.