Mine wasn't just the o ring the entire flange was wobbling around, you could rock the tube around while it was still bolted, i chenged the whole thing and it fixed the problem
As a backyard mechanic you are as thorough as any full time mechanic . You,ve included all the little secrets ,like rivets ,pickup tube screen ,o ring etc. Excelent job ,bravo on you .Thanks so much from another longtime backyard mechanic . Recently purchased a 2006 Avalanche with the same mileage ,this,ll help me a lot ,thanks a ton , a full time pro couldn,t have done a better job.
Thank you so much for the kind words and for noticing the attention to detail that I try to put into my content. Congratulations on your recent purchase. I hope that you will check out other videos here on the channel and enjoy them as well.
Dropped the pan per your instructions and replaced the O-ring on the oil pick-up tube. Have great oil pressure again and my lifter ticking is gone! (2006 Silverado, 2 wheel drive} Thanks for the great video!
The video quality, lighting and amount of detail you put into this video is excellent. You simplified something that could easily turn into several days worth of work. Well done, and thank you.
I don’t remember the torque specs at the moment. I might have included them in my 416 stroker motor build for the CTSV if you would like to look back in that video.
Best video on changing the pickup tube O-ring I've seen...doing it this weekend on our 05 Tahoe. Watched several videos and I think you're the first to prime the oil system (or mention doing so) before starting it up.👍
Thanks Scott! I appreciate your comment very much and I try to give lots of details in all of my videos. I am glad that you were able to find it helpful. Priming the oil pump is an important step so that you don’t have a very very long dry start. Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
Hey Scott, I have an 05 Tahoe and need to do this also. Prior to replacing yours did you experience a knocking noise? If so, did the O-ring replacement solve the knocking issue?
I did not have a knocking noise. If your oil pressure is so low that it is knocking and then you do the oil pickup tube o ring and it restores your oil pressure, then yes it may get rid of the noise.
I second the safety glasses suggestion. I've had dirt fall in my eyes working on stuff and it's hell. You increased the life of this truck quite a bit.
Excellent video sir, I just completed this job on my 07 Silverado at 205,000 miles. Im pretty religious about oil changes and thankfully my oil pan was pretty clean, but the O Ring was flat.
I have a 06 6.0 Vortec and it's ticking occasionally at highway speeds and lasts for a few minutes. Do you think it's lifter springs ? It does have 205,000 miles.
Great video. I have a 2001 Silverado 1500 with 227K miles, original engine and transmission. I will be looking at my oil pressure more closely now. Thanks for sharing.
The best video instruction In order to crank without start can be an option, unplug the gas pump fuse specially if it's a Chevy van where the acces motor is a little hard. 👍
Been fighting this tick/tap for a while. Glad I came across this video. This made the job easy. Pretty surprised how one o-ring can make a huge difference. Also went to an AC Delco PF61 oil filter for my 05. Taller than the original. I have better oil pressure and the truck seems to run smoother. Happy truck, happy owner. 300k and still going 👍🏾
Thanks For the Video! Just Changed the O-ring in my 2007 Silverado 4.8 liter (322000 Mile) Back to 40 PSI on cold start 1500 RPM Running temp 40 PSI / 26psi @ idle 800 rpm. But all lifter ticks and rattles are gone.. Would have changed the engine if I had not saw your video!
Man, great video! Very detailed! You should've seen the Lm7 i tore apart that I swapped in my 83 Camaro. The oil wouldn't even come out of the drain plug! I had to poke it around with a screwdriver. Inside the pan there was handfuls of black oil jelly. It was horrible! It runs great, cammed with some other goodies and has almost 60psi cold and about 42-46 hot. Its horrible to see ppl don't ever change their oil at the proper intervals. These are great engines, possibly the best made of all time and if taken care of they will reward you for a long long time! Also, I always use the tall WIX filter as well. On my swapped 83 Camaro & on my 04 Tahoe & the part # is 51522. Cool to see that there's another tall WIX part # that also fits.....you used the 51045 right? Anyways great content!
I've always changed all of my vehicles oil at 3600 miles. A couple of years ago, i found out what happens when someone hasn't changed the oil for 2 years. I helped clean out the oil pan and engine that was just bad with all that sludge. Now for sure I'm going to continue to change my oil every 3600 miles. Once that oil becomes sludge and really thickens the engine is toast. Great info and Awesome, video.
Very good video Boss.. I looked at many videos trying to find out what my problem was. Your video gave me good info & details about what I needed to know & answers. Very informative!! I appreciate this video & will be checking out more of your videos. Thank you 🤙🏼
I just did my 2005 Z71 5.3L Tahoe with 330,000 miles on her, exact same problem but I also replaced my oil pump while I was there, four wheel drive is a much bigger pain and I did not want to do it twice just incase, now I get 45 psi on cold starts and over 55 with a light engine rev. I am hoping for at least another 100,000 from the old girl.
Awesome! Definitely harder on a 4x4 and definitely smart to go ahead and do an oil pump with that kind of mileage. I bet you do get another 100,000 out of her.
From the look of the gunk in the bottom of the oil pan, I would think that someone neglected oil changes on that engine. When you’re finished putting it all back together, you might want to run some marvel mystery oil through that engine for a couple of oil change cycles. Another option is to run a quart of transmission fluid through the engine for a few oil change intervals. You’ll get the sludgy crap to dissolve up by the rocker arms and oil galleries. It’s amazing how much neglect a engine can endure. A can of that carburetor cleaner that you dunk your parts into could’ve been poured into that oil pan and let’s soak overnight and it would’ve looked all nice and shiny. Thanks for the video
@@whiplashtv2022 Tell me what you think. I replaced oil pressure sensor on a 2000 Silverado 5.3 4x4 with about 216k miles on it. Sometimes on cold starts after it hasn't been driven a few days I'll crank the engine and oil PSI is at 0 and I get the low oil pressure indicator light that flashes then when it warms up the oil PSI gets to normal range. Doesn't happen on warm starts. My guess it's the oil pickup tube o-ring. Let me know. Thanks!
@buzztrucker yeah, it kinda sounds like you are losing your oil prime and the o ring could be cracked. When it is warm, then the oil ring swells and seals up enough.
Thanks for the great video!, the oil will get sludge if a shop gets lazy and doesn't change the oil filter!!, had that problem, did a couple of engine oil flush, and it helped, been changing the oil more frequently, but going to replace the red O ring on the oil pickup tube as well!
I just did this job on 4x4 YukonXL. It’s a nightmare. You’re lucky it’s not a 4x4 like mine. I had to drop the diff to drop my pan. Replaced oil pump as well using a Melling high volume oil pump. Cleaning up the sludge was just as much a nightmare as the job . My pan was full of it as well as my timing cover, and valve covers. I used gasoline and brake cleaner to clean it all. After the job was done I I removed the sludge from the rest of my engine using a quart of diesel fuel in the oil. After I installed everything I ran diesel fuel in engine at idle fir 10 min then changed my oil.
Yeah the 4x4 trucks are definitely harder to do. I am very glad that I was doing it on a 2wd. I am using some Rotella T-6 oil which has very good detergents in it as well as some transmission fluid to help clean things up.
@@whiplashtv2022 was just gonna tell you about the trans fluid it worked wonders on mine, plus I pulled the screen that blocks the sending unit/pressure sensor, a notorious problem with these engines.
@@jelenekoutdoors9023 So far I did a little transmission fluid and ran a little Seafoam for about 500 miles and dumped the oil. The Seafoam seems to have flushed a little more out than the transmission fluid did.
Yep. Same on my 02 Tahoe 5.3, 274k mikes. Now 45psi idle and 55 psi, hot, 1500 rpm. Be sure to upgrade the pcv system (replace drivers side valve cover with new version w/better baffling and orifice). Oil consumption now down to~ 3k/qt.....
My trans is out for a rebuild. I'm taking the opportunity to change the rear main seal, barbell, and lift engine a few inches and pulling the oil pan for this o-ring/cleanup. hoping to lift enine and not drop front axle since trans is out:) Excellent video! Thanks. PS Thanks for the hint by a professional below to floor gas pedal upon startup as computer forces it to NOT start..and you can prime the pump!
You did an awesome job. Your was video very helpful and very through! It took the job 4 hours to complete. My oil pressure was from 39# to 79# when it was completed. Thanks a bunch
Another good thing to do while you're in there is to install the oil pickup tube girdle brace that utilizes both holes instead of just the one from the factory, it will pull the pickup tube in evenly to the oil pump housing instead of a slight angle with just the one bolt, it's only $8 on eBay
Thank you hoping this gonna work the tick is annoying idles at 20 jumps to 40 on acceleration did the trunnion upgrade with the lock rings next was new lifters but ima try this 👍🏽
You don't need to disconnect the coil pack harnesses if you don't want the vehicle to start. Just floor the gas pedal while cranking, and the ECM will shut off the injectors. No fuel, no start.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
Done a lot of these.. never had any try to start when holding gas pedal to floor... gm...ford...chrysler...are same... it will not start or even 'try' to start.
Just picked up a really clean 2005 Z71 4x4. Oil pressure isn't terrible by any means (these 5.3L engines will run forever especially if taken care of), but it's a bit low at hot idle. Thanks for all the information and attention to detail in this video! I'll be doing this some time in the near future. Liked and subscribed to the channel!
@whiplashtv2022 yeah for sure! I just got all the parts together to do the o-ring job, plus oil cooler block gasket and oil level sensor + gasket. Going to degrease the entire engine afterwards because I suspect valve cover gaskets are also leaking.
I'm about to do this. I changed the pressure switch and registered good pressure. Today I noticed on the highway a fluctuation in pressure. So o-ring is my suspect. I don't beat on my truck, so everything should be great after the o-ring swap. Only thing that sucks is my SS is awd and I have to drop the front differential out of the way of the pan.
For all the sludge use gasoline and rags. Let the gas soak and it will wipe clean. And before i pulled the pan i used marvel mystery oil in the oil for a few hundread miles.
I've got the same truck except I have the crew cab. I installed a manual gauge on my truck and I have 25 psi cold. And hot is super low. I'm going to change the o ring and shim the spring slightly for my channel and see how that helps
Wow!!! Great vid and narrative 2014 5.3 here, not sure if this is my issue at the moment, (Likely will be) But man-o-man I’m “riveted” to watching ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
You can buy the aftermarket oil pans with the oil filter relocation kit. I did this over a weekend and my pan had sludge all on the inside and full of coolant. Yes i did a full engine rebuild.
Gonna be doing the same soon. Central Wisconsin I have a 2005 Trailblazer 5.3L with 228k. Still runs butter smooth however when it's freezing and below freezing the oil pressure drops. I've replaced the oil pressure screen and sensor however it drops quick when the oil is cold. Soon as it warms up in that cold it slowly drops if I don't have a rev up to 1k or higher. But when it's 40°F or above it's fine. Being that the fresh oil that is in the truck as I replace my oil every 3k. The pickup tube has to be the issue. The colder it is the harder it is for that oil to go up and if that o ring is broke or in the way obstructing it when the oil is cold that being the problem is the most logical issue since it runs and holds pressure fine when it's above fridge temp outside at idle
And something to avoid is overheating it because it can cause the o-ring to fail and along with other gaskets like in my case bunch of gaskets leaking now and o-ring not making a good seal now have same issue low oil pressure 23-26psi all because I didn’t see it running hot in timely manner , had the plastic rat crack and caused a bunch of problems so replaced with aluminum rat with e-fans
I'm just wondering if, since you've done all the work to get in there, it would make sense to do a little more and replace the oil pump too? At that high mileage, it would seem the peace of mind would be worth another $75, but I'd like to hear your opinion.
You can do it if you want to, but you have to take the front of the motor apart to get to it. So while $75 isn’t much, the extra work involved is a lot. If I was changing out the oil pump, then I would go with a Melling 10296 oil pump. It will cost more money, but it will put up more volume and pressure.
The best stuff for cleaning those old engines is "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner" and it really is totally awesome. Soak parts in it for a few hours and u can spray thay old crud off. Or spray it in and scrub and it will come off quick.
nice video..i have a question , you said @ 23:29 to disconnect coil pack before start the car..can i know the reason..? also is it important to disconnect it ..
I disconnected it to be sure that the engine would not fire while I primed the oil pump. There are different ways to keep it from firing, but that is the method that I chose.
I found out a thing about those oil rings. There's two different kinds. One for a car and theres one for a pickup. Same motors just find it weird, the hard way. The trucks an orange color and the cars black or green. Had an auto store give me a car one and didn't know ubtil it worked for 3 days. Took me a hundred phone calls to get rhe right one. Been working great for 5 years now.
@@whiplashtv2022 Thank you my truck use to have Awesome pressure until 2 years ago It runs like a champ and I always use Synthetic oil I guess with time that little Damn Seal would dry up
I have an 06 with 412,000 miles. Repair shop wont do it because of the fear of the rear main seal blowing out with all that new pressure. I have been running lately @ 38 psi driving and 20 idleing. Use to be at or near 40 psi all the time. Looks like i will be doing this job myself. Thanks,
Yeah I would say that you having the extra oil pressure is a good thing and if the rear main blows then just do the right thing and replace it. That is strange that they don’t want to do the job.
I bought my truck used with this problem for $3000 fix was $2 goes up to 60 easy and WOT is 80 baby.. put RTV oil resistant gasket maker on flange and around O ring for future bullet proof.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune from stock, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
Including the filter how many quarts of oil do you think you put in? I did this to my Silverado today and I got 40psi at first but then it dropped back down to 33/35ish when it warmed up. It got above 40 at driving and highway speeds but nowhere near 65 like you said ok your video when you were reving it up
I always enjoy hearing how much my videos have helped others. Thanks for sharing that and subscribing! Hopefully you enjoy the other videos on the channel. Please share the channels and videos with your friends!
I’m working on a Gen V L83 and suspect the same thing, except it doesn’t have an o-ring, it’s just the metal pickup tube into an aluminum housing. I suppose it’s supposed to be a tight fit but it’s got a couple thou wiggle room to it. I am curious if it’s the cause of my low oil pressure also. If an aging o-ring can cause aeration I am wondering just how little air is necessary to ineffectualize the oil pump ratio producing the target oil pressure.
The newer Gen V trucks run a much thinner oil. They run 0w-20 instead of 5w-30/10w-30. Y’all can call me crazy, but in the Gen V L86 that we had, I ran thicker oil. I am not sure how low of oil pressure you are seeing, but if it was mine, thicker oil would be a consideration of mine. Disclaimer, I in no way will be held responsible for that, and do it at your own risk and research. I had no problems with it though. I have yet to hear about Gen V oil pickup tube Oring issues. Maybe the oil pump is going out or you are seeing some bearing wear causing your oil pressure to go down…just a couple thoughts.
5⭐, amigo,,,My problem is with the oil pressure marking in the gauge when i start it, the gauge needdle don't move most of the time untill i press gas pedal it moves up but needdle keeps up n down, so i deside not move it, untill gett an honest diagnóstic...what can You do to guide me to know what to do with My old backupfríend in the outthere Chevy taho 2005, 4.8L, and Big thanks for the help
The issue could be what I covered in this video, or it could be an issue with the oil pressure sending unit. You can hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and try checking it that way before you tear into it.
I drove it few days like that, changing to neutral n acelerating when i stop or when i SEE the gauge needdle goes down, after few days decide take it to somebody but i feel that this guy is not been honest. So, decide not move it, n take My poor friend back Home.😟
Great video!! Was a little intimidated by the job, but not now. Question about disconnecting the coil packs. The mechanical action of the engine is the same when the pistons fire as when the don’t, correct? Are you doing this to limit the rpm’s at start up to prime the pump? Do you do this every time you change your oil? Just curious.
If the vehicle fires up and has no oil pressure then it will make many many more rotations with 0 oil pressure than if you prime it with no fire. No I don’t prime after every oil change because I don’t change that o ring every oil change. When you change the o ring, there is the chance that it gets caught, ripped, or doesn’t seat just right so you are not just building oil pressure, you are also verifying the fact that you will actually make oil pressure when you crank it.
Were you loosing any antifreeze from your reservoir? My 2000 Silverado 5.3 was and I found out the heads were cracked letting antifreeze mix with the oil. I kept adding it but never saw any sign of a leak. my oil pressure went down like that because the filter would stop up with sludge. I replaced the heads and pulled the pan and there was enough of that goop in the pan that my truck would only hold 5 quarts to fill it to the upper mark on the dipstick. just curious.
My truck is just about at 20 or a lil over 20 at idle but goes to 40 or a lil over 40 when i hit the gas its a silverado also 5.3 with upgraded cam doesnt make any tap or knocking noises should i replace o ring first .?
Wow I have never had my oil pan off my 99 silverado since I purchased it used in April 2000, no serious engine issues or any other mechanical issues, this time I noticed my oil pressure was around 40 psi and it usually runs a little higher, I ordered a new pan gasket and o-ring, removed the oil pan and found the pan in excellent condition with very little cleanup, installed the new (Blue) o-ring part number M29517, buttoned everything up to specs added a new oil filter and fresh oil, started her up and like magic my oil pressure was back to normal, on added throttle the oil pressure went up to 60 psi, these LS engines are very tricky especially if you don't do required oil changes as scheduled, it's been just about a month since the install and she is still purring like a kitten, hope this helps someone.
I got the same truck as you do and my oil pressure seems to be fluctuating I'm gonna start first with the sensor and screen in back of the block by the firewall and if that doesn't resolve the issue then this will be my next step I'm hoping it will be I only have about 122000 miles on it so fingers 🤞
On the older ones like my 2005. Hevy there is no screen at the oil pressure sensor. Remember that mileage isn’t the only factor and that age will cause them to go bad too.
I meant the oil sending switch or sending unit it's in the top rear of the motor behind the intake plenum I've heard those can go bad but that there's also an orifice lil tube screen looking thing that you pull out and replace and that might solve it idk but dosnt hurt to try
Hey, I appreciate your help, I couldn't have replaced this without you. I think I screwed something up though, my truck now is telling me to service the 4wd. Any ideas as to what I could have done to the differential when I let it down? Thank you.
@@whiplashtv2022 I just see a connection for a mator that goes to the differential. Idk if that's called an actuator. I did screw up and somehow messed both of my CV axles up to where I couldn't get them back in so I ended up replacing them. I'll look for any more connector. Thank you so much for your help!
@@whiplashtv2022 being under stress was my 2nd though. I probably shouldn't have done this job in 106 degree weather 😰 I'll let you know when I figure it out.
Just did this to my 05 Tahoe. I had around 25psi at idle and 40 max and lifter chatter almost constantly. Now it’s quiet as a mouse and idles at 50psi and up to 80psi under load.
My 05 sierra 2WD has 190K miles on it... Im gonna do this job and will obviously change the oil. Should i get the thicker oil or stick to what it should be? I know some people say to add thicker oil at some point in the trucks life but dont know if thats a good thing.
Thanks for this video! Just decided to replace mine and it was nice knowing exactly what tools were needed so I didn’t have to keep climbing out from under the truck. Also bumped my pressure back up to 45ish.
@@whiplashtv2022 agreed. I’m going to run some transmission fluid through the engine for a couple days, since I don’t drive many miles. Maybe 5 miles a day, to work and back, probably a clog
I changed mine, while replacing leaking pan gasket. at 272k, the inside looked really good for mileage. Cleaned every thing including pickup tube and screen. Put every thing back together, waited 24 hrs for gasket sealer as per recommendations. Filled with oil . unplugged coils and no oil pressure at all. BRIEFLY started to a noisy engine which confirmed no oil pressure. Any ideas other than pulling it apart to confirm o-ring wasn't damaged ? I am an autobody tech , with mechanical training. I followed GM service procedures and did not use screw to force the tube in ect. I am surprised and confused. Could the oil pump lose enough oil in those 24 hrs to hinder pump from priming?
It should get prime back and show 3-5 psi on a scan tool while turning it over with coils unplugged. Since it had prime and some oil pressure before, I would be pulling it back apart and inspecting the oil pickup and o ring just to be sure that the o ring isn’t damaged or crooked.
I just bought a 2001 chevy tahoe 5.3 rwd and oh man i like the truck but it's been giving me a bunch of codes B2722, C0265 and P0332. The first two goes away by it self sometimes I erased the codes. The 3rd one is new. Is it worth replacing the body control module and EBCM?
P0332 is saying that the Knock Sensor 2 Bank 2 is sending a low reading to the pcm. The B2722 is set when the when the signal circuit of the Tow/Haul switch is shorted to ground for approximately 3 minutes. For the C0265 code, I would check the EBCM Ground.
I got a question hopefully you see this. Got a 2011 Silverado 5.3 with the DOD. I replaced timing chain and oil pump year or so ago. And now out of no where when I start the engine it goes to roughly 20psi, then starts to go down till 0 and the display says shut engine off low oil pressure. You can turn off and start right back up and it goes back to 20 then slowly goes down. The truck never knocks at all making me think that it does in fact have oil pressure. Would this be the oil pressure sensor/switch? The screen under it? Or is this a bigger problem
Like he said replace oil pressure sending unit and the screen you must replace the screen or else it will not fix anything trust me I have multiple 5.3's and 3 6.2 denalis very common problem
Since the rack and pinion needs to be dropped from it's mounting position to do this repair, did you have to get the front alignment done? Or is it fine to just bolt up it back up?
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Great video ! Awesomely explained and very clear viewings. You explained every detail very well. One of the best mechanical videos I've seen. Thanks
Thanks a lot
Crazy how that little o-ring causes all these problems. Thanks for the idea to check it out! Back up to 40 lbs at idle.
Yes, a little o ring could cast catastrophic failure of your engine. It is pretty crazy. I’m happy to hear that you have good oil pressure now.
Mine wasn't just the o ring the entire flange was wobbling around, you could rock the tube around while it was still bolted, i chenged the whole thing and it fixed the problem
@dawsondetrana5496 wow, that’s crazy!
It Just happened to me 😢😢😢 It caused my pump to fail our of the Blue????😢😢
@ruwithlee1970 that sucks
As a backyard mechanic you are as thorough as any full time mechanic . You,ve included all the little secrets ,like rivets ,pickup tube screen ,o ring etc. Excelent job ,bravo on you .Thanks so much from another longtime backyard mechanic . Recently purchased a 2006 Avalanche with the same mileage ,this,ll help me a lot ,thanks a ton , a full time pro couldn,t have done a better job.
Thank you so much for the kind words and for noticing the attention to detail that I try to put into my content. Congratulations on your recent purchase. I hope that you will check out other videos here on the channel and enjoy them as well.
Dropped the pan per your instructions and replaced the O-ring on the oil pick-up tube. Have great oil pressure again and my lifter ticking is gone! (2006 Silverado, 2 wheel drive} Thanks for the great video!
You’re very welcome! Happy to hear about your great outcome.
Think I’m gonna do this very soon!! As I can feel it in my nuggets it’s my problem! 😂
Just started hearing the ticking noise very faintly but I'm not taking any chances.going to change it soon.
The video quality, lighting and amount of detail you put into this video is excellent. You simplified something that could easily turn into several days worth of work. Well done, and thank you.
Thanks for noticing and for the incredibly nice comment!
I agree!! Thank you sir!! It was fun too, thanks again!!
You’re welcome
What was the torque specs for everything?
I don’t remember the torque specs at the moment. I might have included them in my 416 stroker motor build for the CTSV if you would like to look back in that video.
Best video on changing the pickup tube O-ring I've seen...doing it this weekend on our 05 Tahoe. Watched several videos and I think you're the first to prime the oil system (or mention doing so) before starting it up.👍
Thanks Scott! I appreciate your comment very much and I try to give lots of details in all of my videos. I am glad that you were able to find it helpful. Priming the oil pump is an important step so that you don’t have a very very long dry start. Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
Hey Scott, I have an 05 Tahoe and need to do this also. Prior to replacing yours did you experience a knocking noise? If so, did the O-ring replacement solve the knocking issue?
I did not have a knocking noise. If your oil pressure is so low that it is knocking and then you do the oil pickup tube o ring and it restores your oil pressure, then yes it may get rid of the noise.
I second the safety glasses suggestion. I've had dirt fall in my eyes working on stuff and it's hell. You increased the life of this truck quite a bit.
Dirt falling all the time!
Excellent video sir, I just completed this job on my 07 Silverado at 205,000 miles. Im pretty religious about oil changes and thankfully my oil pan was pretty clean, but the O Ring was flat.
Thank you
I have a 06 6.0 Vortec and it's ticking occasionally at highway speeds and lasts for a few minutes. Do you think it's lifter springs ? It does have 205,000 miles.
That is hard to say. Usually that would be a lifter issue, but also look for things like missfires.
One of the BEST videos out there!! Very professionally done!👍👍Need to make more videos on other situations 🙂
Thank you!
Great video. I have a 2001 Silverado 1500 with 227K miles, original engine and transmission. I will be looking at my oil pressure more closely now. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, you’re welcome.
The best video instruction In order to crank without start can be an option, unplug the gas pump fuse specially if it's a Chevy van where the acces motor is a little hard. 👍
Thanks
You put a lot of work into explaining and editing. You’re awesome buddy
Yes I did. Thanks for noticing and watching!
Been fighting this tick/tap for a while. Glad I came across this video. This made the job easy. Pretty surprised how one o-ring can make a huge difference. Also went to an AC Delco PF61 oil filter for my 05. Taller than the original. I have better oil pressure and the truck seems to run smoother. Happy truck, happy owner. 300k and still going 👍🏾
I’m glad the video was helpful and that you got your truck running better.
I have a 04 with the 4.8 V8 and will be doing this soon. Thank you for making such a thorough video of how to do this!! Your truck looks great BTW!
You’re welcome! Thanks for the compliment and the comment. I hope that you enjoy the other videos on the channel as well.
Thanks For the Video! Just Changed the O-ring in my 2007 Silverado 4.8 liter (322000 Mile) Back to 40 PSI on cold start 1500 RPM Running temp 40 PSI / 26psi @ idle 800 rpm. But all lifter ticks and rattles are gone.. Would have changed the engine if I had not saw your video!
You’re welcome! I’m glad that it has extended the life of your engine.
Just got an 01 6.0L, this is the first thing I’m doing to it as it’s going to be a highway truck. Take care of them and they’ll take care of you!
100% right!
Very good video my brother! I did this to my 2001and it gave me another 150,000 miles before tranny went out
Thank you!
Hands down the BEST tutorial/ "how to" on the o ring replacement!!
Thank you!
I know this video is old! But thank you! I think I am going to tackle this! I was going to get a mechanic to do it! But this seems straight forward!
You’re welcome! You can do it, just take your time and be sure to not pinch the o ring when you install the new one.
Man, great video! Very detailed! You should've seen the Lm7 i tore apart that I swapped in my 83 Camaro. The oil wouldn't even come out of the drain plug! I had to poke it around with a screwdriver. Inside the pan there was handfuls of black oil jelly. It was horrible! It runs great, cammed with some other goodies and has almost 60psi cold and about 42-46 hot. Its horrible to see ppl don't ever change their oil at the proper intervals. These are great engines, possibly the best made of all time and if taken care of they will reward you for a long long time! Also, I always use the tall WIX filter as well. On my swapped 83 Camaro & on my 04 Tahoe & the part # is 51522. Cool to see that there's another tall WIX part # that also fits.....you used the 51045 right? Anyways great content!
Thanks! Yeah it is crazy how some don’t change their oil and take care of their engines. Very sad
I've always changed all of my vehicles oil at 3600 miles. A couple of years ago, i found out what happens when someone hasn't changed the oil for 2 years. I helped clean out the oil pan and engine that was just bad with all that sludge. Now for sure I'm going to continue to change my oil every 3600 miles. Once that oil becomes sludge and really thickens the engine is toast. Great info and Awesome, video.
Thank you!
Wow! Looks like a well seasoned skillet! Must change oil!
For sure 😂😂😂
Very good video Boss.. I looked at many videos trying to find out what my problem was. Your video gave me good info & details about what I needed to know & answers. Very informative!! I appreciate this video & will be checking out more of your videos. Thank you 🤙🏼
Thanks for the kind words and for supporting the channel!
I woud of just started the truck , im glad you did that oil prime ima do mine tomorrow just like that. Im changing the oring too
Great video. that pick-up tube screen was a job for Brake-Kleen if I ever saw one.
Thanks! Yeah it took a LOT of cleanup on this job!
What an awesome tutorial video! Going to do my 2004 Silverado. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Thanks for the comment. I hope that you enjoy the other videos here on the channel as well.
I just did my 2005 Z71 5.3L Tahoe with 330,000 miles on her, exact same problem but I also replaced my oil pump while I was there, four wheel drive is a much bigger pain and I did not want to do it twice just incase, now I get 45 psi on cold starts and over 55 with a light engine rev. I am hoping for at least another 100,000 from the old girl.
Awesome! Definitely harder on a 4x4 and definitely smart to go ahead and do an oil pump with that kind of mileage. I bet you do get another 100,000 out of her.
From the look of the gunk in the bottom of the oil pan, I would think that someone neglected oil changes on that engine. When you’re finished putting it all back together, you might want to run some marvel mystery oil through that engine for a couple of oil change cycles. Another option is to run a quart of transmission fluid through the engine for a few oil change intervals. You’ll get the sludgy crap to dissolve up by the rocker arms and oil galleries. It’s amazing how much neglect a engine can endure. A can of that carburetor cleaner that you dunk your parts into could’ve been poured into that oil pan and let’s soak overnight and it would’ve looked all nice and shiny. Thanks for the video
You’re welcome and I did those things as well to help clean up the motor. It definitely has endured a lot.
Currently running into this issue. This video is going to be so helpful. Thank You.
I’m glad that it is helpful! I hope that you like and enjoy the other videos on the channel as well.
You my friend did a great video. You really were thorough with every step and the detail of the process in your video was 2nd to none. Kudos!
Thank you very much! I hope that you enjoy the other videos on the channel as well!
@@whiplashtv2022 Tell me what you think. I replaced oil pressure sensor on a 2000 Silverado 5.3 4x4 with about 216k miles on it. Sometimes on cold starts after it hasn't been driven a few days I'll crank the engine and oil PSI is at 0 and I get the low oil pressure indicator light that flashes then when it warms up the oil PSI gets to normal range. Doesn't happen on warm starts. My guess it's the oil pickup tube o-ring. Let me know. Thanks!
@buzztrucker yeah, it kinda sounds like you are losing your oil prime and the o ring could be cracked. When it is warm, then the oil ring swells and seals up enough.
Couldn’t agree more with all the comments, thanks!
You’re welcome
Thanks for the great video!, the oil will get sludge if a shop gets lazy and doesn't change the oil filter!!, had that problem, did a couple of engine oil flush, and it helped, been changing the oil more frequently, but going to replace the red O ring on the oil pickup tube as well!
Thanks and that is a great idea to do the oil pickup tube o ring as well.
Man ,thank you. You have made my job easier. Great job .
You’re welcome. I hope that you enjoy the other videos on the channel as well.
I just did this job on 4x4 YukonXL. It’s a nightmare. You’re lucky it’s not a 4x4 like mine. I had to drop the diff to drop my pan. Replaced oil pump as well using a Melling high volume oil pump. Cleaning up the sludge was just as much a nightmare as the job . My pan was full of it as well as my timing cover, and valve covers. I used gasoline and brake cleaner to clean it all. After the job was done I
I removed the sludge from the rest of my engine using a quart of diesel fuel in the oil. After I installed everything I ran diesel fuel in engine at idle fir 10 min then changed my oil.
Think it would be hard on an 05 Chevy ? Cold start it has zero pressure but then quickly comes up to 40
Yeah the 4x4 trucks are definitely harder to do. I am very glad that I was doing it on a 2wd. I am using some Rotella T-6 oil which has very good detergents in it as well as some transmission fluid to help clean things up.
It is not hard unless it is a 4x4. How long does it read 0 psi for???
@@whiplashtv2022 was just gonna tell you about the trans fluid it worked wonders on mine, plus I pulled the screen that blocks the sending unit/pressure sensor, a notorious problem with these engines.
@@jelenekoutdoors9023 So far I did a little transmission fluid and ran a little Seafoam for about 500 miles and dumped the oil. The Seafoam seems to have flushed a little more out than the transmission fluid did.
Great video. I'm debating if I want to do this DIY.
Thank you!
Wow great video, I like how you mentioned even the smallest details, I definitely feel more comfortable doing it on my truck, thank you
Thank you, happy to hear that.
Yep. Same on my 02 Tahoe 5.3, 274k mikes. Now 45psi idle and 55 psi, hot, 1500 rpm. Be sure to upgrade the pcv system (replace drivers side valve cover with new version w/better baffling and orifice). Oil consumption now down to~ 3k/qt.....
Happy to hear it turned out well. Yes pcv fix is helpful as you mentioned.
My trans is out for a rebuild. I'm taking the opportunity to change the rear main seal, barbell, and lift engine a few inches and pulling the oil pan for this o-ring/cleanup. hoping to lift enine and not drop front axle since trans is out:) Excellent video! Thanks. PS Thanks for the hint by a professional below to floor gas pedal upon startup as computer forces it to NOT start..and you can prime the pump!
Good luck with your job.
You did an awesome job. Your was video very helpful and very through! It took the job 4 hours to complete. My oil pressure was from 39# to 79# when it was completed. Thanks a bunch
Thanks! I’m glad that it turned out good for you and that the video was helpful!
Another good thing to do while you're in there is to install the oil pickup tube girdle brace that utilizes both holes instead of just the one from the factory, it will pull the pickup tube in evenly to the oil pump housing instead of a slight angle with just the one bolt, it's only $8 on eBay
Yeah I saw that after I did this job. Probably not a bad idea.
Thank you hoping this gonna work the tick is annoying idles at 20 jumps to 40 on acceleration did the trunnion upgrade with the lock rings next was new lifters but ima try this 👍🏽
Hopefully it does the trick. Let me know how it turns out.
Gotta do this on my 04. I get low to mid 30’s cold and 40ish hot and it climbs with acceleration but it definitely wouldn’t hurt to do this.
👍🏻
That was a proper oil prime you did there.
👍🏻
best instructional ,video, lighting. speed and detail was awsome. best gm video out there.
Thank you very much!
Our has 221 and doing same thing
Will fix it this next summer so I parked it and start it every 3 weeks
Good
You don't need to disconnect the coil pack harnesses if you don't want the vehicle to start. Just floor the gas pedal while cranking, and the ECM will shut off the injectors. No fuel, no start.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
Done a lot of these.. never had any try to start when holding gas pedal to floor...
gm...ford...chrysler...are same... it will not start or even 'try' to start.
@user-cp5vl9ot9x 👍🏻
what you mean , thats what i have to do to start mine
Dang, something is wrong then
I got a 05 Silverado single cab short bed that's black, love the truck definitely subscribed! Keep it up
Thank you very much! Appreciate the sub!
Thanks bud ! Best video I found on this, will be doing this on my truck this weekend ! 👍🏽
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind comment. Good luck on your project this weekend! Hopefully it will go smoothly for you.
Just picked up a really clean 2005 Z71 4x4. Oil pressure isn't terrible by any means (these 5.3L engines will run forever especially if taken care of), but it's a bit low at hot idle. Thanks for all the information and attention to detail in this video! I'll be doing this some time in the near future. Liked and subscribed to the channel!
You’re very welcome. Thanks for watching, subscribing, liking, and commenting!
How low?
@@TheSavage3.6 20-25 at fully warmed idle. Goes up to 40-45 when I get on it
@@whodatSean that isn’t too terrible but it could probably be better.
@whiplashtv2022 yeah for sure! I just got all the parts together to do the o-ring job, plus oil cooler block gasket and oil level sensor + gasket. Going to degrease the entire engine afterwards because I suspect valve cover gaskets are also leaking.
I'm about to do this. I changed the pressure switch and registered good pressure. Today I noticed on the highway a fluctuation in pressure. So o-ring is my suspect. I don't beat on my truck, so everything should be great after the o-ring swap. Only thing that sucks is my SS is awd and I have to drop the front differential out of the way of the pan.
All wheel drive definitely makes this job harder for sure.
For all the sludge use gasoline and rags. Let the gas soak and it will wipe clean. And before i pulled the pan i used marvel mystery oil in the oil for a few hundread miles.
Gasoline is a good idea
I've got the same truck except I have the crew cab. I installed a manual gauge on my truck and I have 25 psi cold. And hot is super low. I'm going to change the o ring and shim the spring slightly for my channel and see how that helps
Sounds like a great place to start.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it but that oil pickup tube o-ring failure will also cause a slight knock making people think it’s a major issue.
True
Wow!!!
Great vid and narrative
2014 5.3 here, not sure if this is my issue at the moment,
(Likely will be)
But man-o-man I’m “riveted” to watching
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks a lot! I hope that you enjoy the other videos on the channel as well!
Awesome video. Great step by step directions.
Thank you
You can buy the aftermarket oil pans with the oil filter relocation kit. I did this over a weekend and my pan had sludge all on the inside and full of coolant. Yes i did a full engine rebuild.
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Gonna be doing the same soon. Central Wisconsin I have a 2005 Trailblazer 5.3L with 228k. Still runs butter smooth however when it's freezing and below freezing the oil pressure drops. I've replaced the oil pressure screen and sensor however it drops quick when the oil is cold. Soon as it warms up in that cold it slowly drops if I don't have a rev up to 1k or higher. But when it's 40°F or above it's fine. Being that the fresh oil that is in the truck as I replace my oil every 3k. The pickup tube has to be the issue. The colder it is the harder it is for that oil to go up and if that o ring is broke or in the way obstructing it when the oil is cold that being the problem is the most logical issue since it runs and holds pressure fine when it's above fridge temp outside at idle
Yes, that could be your issue. The part is cheap so it is definitely worth trying.
And something to avoid is overheating it because it can cause the o-ring to fail and along with other gaskets like in my case bunch of gaskets leaking now and o-ring not making a good seal now have same issue low oil pressure 23-26psi all because I didn’t see it running hot in timely manner , had the plastic rat crack and caused a bunch of problems so replaced with aluminum rat with e-fans
That is true. Overheating will definitely cause several issues.
Just replaced the one on my 05 Z71 worked like a charm. Idles at 40psi and runs around 45-50
Very nice! It makes a huge difference and is definitely worth doing. Job well done sir.
I just fixed my 5.3 on monday morning just fell off tube oil pressure back to normal was not a bad job .
I am happy to hear that it went well for you! Hopefully the video helped out.
I'm just wondering if, since you've done all the work to get in there, it would make sense to do a little more and replace the oil pump too? At that high mileage, it would seem the peace of mind would be worth another $75, but I'd like to hear your opinion.
You can do it if you want to, but you have to take the front of the motor apart to get to it. So while $75 isn’t much, the extra work involved is a lot. If I was changing out the oil pump, then I would go with a Melling 10296 oil pump. It will cost more money, but it will put up more volume and pressure.
The best stuff for cleaning those old engines is "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner" and it really is totally awesome. Soak parts in it for a few hours and u can spray thay old crud off. Or spray it in and scrub and it will come off quick.
Interesting, I’ll have to take a look at that stuff.
nice video..i have a question , you said @ 23:29 to disconnect coil pack before start the car..can i know the reason..? also is it important to disconnect it ..
I disconnected it to be sure that the engine would not fire while I primed the oil pump. There are different ways to keep it from firing, but that is the method that I chose.
I found out a thing about those oil rings. There's two different kinds. One for a car and theres one for a pickup. Same motors just find it weird, the hard way. The trucks an orange color and the cars black or green. Had an auto store give me a car one and didn't know ubtil it worked for 3 days. Took me a hundred phone calls to get rhe right one. Been working great for 5 years now.
Yes there is different types and colors for different applications
Awesome now I know what I need to do for my 2000 Silverado Z71
Look up the part number for your year model o-ring. That will let you kbow which one you need.
@@whiplashtv2022 Thank you my truck use to have Awesome pressure until 2 years ago It runs like a champ and I always use Synthetic oil I guess with time that little Damn Seal would dry up
@@7105chuy yes, over time the seal can crack, brittle, and not seal as good.
I have an 06 with 412,000 miles. Repair shop wont do it because of the fear of the rear main seal blowing out with all that new pressure. I have been running lately @ 38 psi driving and 20 idleing.
Use to be at or near 40 psi all the time.
Looks like i will be doing this job myself.
Thanks,
Yeah I would say that you having the extra oil pressure is a good thing and if the rear main blows then just do the right thing and replace it. That is strange that they don’t want to do the job.
Video quality and your discussion were excellent:-)
Thanks!
Great Vid what does the oil pressure read at hot idle ?
30psi
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching! I hope that you enjoy the other videos on the channel as well!
I bought my truck used with this problem for $3000 fix was $2 goes up to 60 easy and WOT is 80 baby.. put RTV oil resistant gasket maker on flange and around O ring for future bullet proof.
Sounds like you got a deal
@@whiplashtv2022 o ya 6L 2005 Chevy express 3500 710,000 MILES she’s a good plumbing van the Swiss army of vans if you will tow/haul/reliability
Next time when you go to prime just hold the gas pedal at WOT it’ll kill the fuel if I’m not mistaken to help prime with out unplugging anything.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune from stock, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
Thank-you from Oregon!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Including the filter how many quarts of oil do you think you put in? I did this to my Silverado today and I got 40psi at first but then it dropped back down to 33/35ish when it warmed up. It got above 40 at driving and highway speeds but nowhere near 65 like you said ok your video when you were reving it up
6 quarts
Great video, great explanations, thanks
Thanks a lot! I hope that you enjoy the other videos here on the channel as well.
Did that today my o ring was ripped up and cracked now i got the same psi on my swapped 5.3 obs
Awesome
Brother you don't know how much you help me thank you so much I just subscribed
I always enjoy hearing how much my videos have helped others. Thanks for sharing that and subscribing! Hopefully you enjoy the other videos on the channel. Please share the channels and videos with your friends!
I’m working on a Gen V L83 and suspect the same thing, except it doesn’t have an o-ring, it’s just the metal pickup tube into an aluminum housing. I suppose it’s supposed to be a tight fit but it’s got a couple thou wiggle room to it. I am curious if it’s the cause of my low oil pressure also. If an aging o-ring can cause aeration I am wondering just how little air is necessary to ineffectualize the oil pump ratio producing the target oil pressure.
The newer Gen V trucks run a much thinner oil. They run 0w-20 instead of 5w-30/10w-30. Y’all can call me crazy, but in the Gen V L86 that we had, I ran thicker oil. I am not sure how low of oil pressure you are seeing, but if it was mine, thicker oil would be a consideration of mine. Disclaimer, I in no way will be held responsible for that, and do it at your own risk and research. I had no problems with it though. I have yet to hear about Gen V oil pickup tube Oring issues. Maybe the oil pump is going out or you are seeing some bearing wear causing your oil pressure to go down…just a couple thoughts.
5⭐, amigo,,,My problem is with the oil pressure marking in the gauge when i start it, the gauge needdle don't move most of the time untill i press gas pedal it moves up but needdle keeps up n down, so i deside not move it, untill gett an honest diagnóstic...what can You do to guide me to know what to do with My old backupfríend in the outthere Chevy taho 2005, 4.8L, and Big thanks for the help
The issue could be what I covered in this video, or it could be an issue with the oil pressure sending unit. You can hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and try checking it that way before you tear into it.
I drove it few days like that, changing to neutral n acelerating when i stop or when i SEE the gauge needdle goes down, after few days decide take it to somebody but i feel that this guy is not been honest. So, decide not move it, n take My poor friend back Home.😟
@@lorenzoguevara837 sorry to hear that
Ok, i Will do that,,,let You know after that check, thanks a Lot👍
@@lorenzoguevara837 you’re welcome
Awesome video! Great info! Thank you!
Thanks, you’re welcome!
I've got a 06 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 lowered pewter/silver in color
Sounds like a nice ride
Great video!! Was a little intimidated by the job, but not now. Question about disconnecting the coil packs. The mechanical action of the engine is the same when the pistons fire as when the don’t, correct? Are you doing this to limit the rpm’s at start up to prime the pump? Do you do this every time you change your oil? Just curious.
If the vehicle fires up and has no oil pressure then it will make many many more rotations with 0 oil pressure than if you prime it with no fire. No I don’t prime after every oil change because I don’t change that o ring every oil change. When you change the o ring, there is the chance that it gets caught, ripped, or doesn’t seat just right so you are not just building oil pressure, you are also verifying the fact that you will actually make oil pressure when you crank it.
Were you loosing any antifreeze from your reservoir? My 2000 Silverado 5.3 was and I found out the heads were cracked letting antifreeze mix with the oil. I kept adding it but never saw any sign of a leak. my oil pressure went down like that because the filter would stop up with sludge. I replaced the heads and pulled the pan and there was enough of that goop in the pan that my truck would only hold 5 quarts to fill it to the upper mark on the dipstick. just curious.
No I have not had any antifreeze missing.
Did you use any type of silicone on the oil pan gasket when you went to mount back the oil pan
Yes, I used some black rtv silicone in the corners on both ends.
My truck is just about at 20 or a lil over 20 at idle but goes to 40 or a lil over 40 when i hit the gas its a silverado also 5.3 with upgraded cam doesnt make any tap or knocking noises should i replace o ring first .?
That is where I would start
Really good video. Very helpful. Thanks.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Wow I have never had my oil pan off my 99 silverado since I purchased it used in April 2000, no serious engine issues or any other mechanical issues, this time I noticed my oil pressure was around 40 psi and it usually runs a little higher, I ordered a new pan gasket and o-ring, removed the oil pan and found the pan in excellent condition with very little cleanup, installed the new (Blue) o-ring part number M29517, buttoned everything up to specs added a new oil filter and fresh oil, started her up and like magic my oil pressure was back to normal, on added throttle the oil pressure went up to 60 psi, these LS engines are very tricky especially if you don't do required oil changes as scheduled, it's been just about a month since the install and she is still purring like a kitten, hope this helps someone.
Great info
I got the same truck as you do and my oil pressure seems to be fluctuating I'm gonna start first with the sensor and screen in back of the block by the firewall and if that doesn't resolve the issue then this will be my next step I'm hoping it will be I only have about 122000 miles on it so fingers 🤞
On the older ones like my 2005. Hevy there is no screen at the oil pressure sensor. Remember that mileage isn’t the only factor and that age will cause them to go bad too.
I meant the oil sending switch or sending unit it's in the top rear of the motor behind the intake plenum I've heard those can go bad but that there's also an orifice lil tube screen looking thing that you pull out and replace and that might solve it idk but dosnt hurt to try
If not I'll have to do what you did and if that doesn't solve it my next guess is oil pump?💭🤔
@@eddievazquez2330 yup 👍🏻
Do you think doing the oring could quiet down noisey lifters?
Yes it could if low oil pressure and flow is making them noisy.
Hey, I appreciate your help, I couldn't have replaced this without you.
I think I screwed something up though, my truck now is telling me to service the 4wd. Any ideas as to what I could have done to the differential when I let it down?
Thank you.
You’re welcome! Did you have to disconnect an electrical hookup for the 4wd actuator?
@@whiplashtv2022 I just see a connection for a mator that goes to the differential. Idk if that's called an actuator. I did screw up and somehow messed both of my CV axles up to where I couldn't get them back in so I ended up replacing them. I'll look for any more connector.
Thank you so much for your help!
@@chrislmcnair yeah it sounds like something is unplugged, or maybe some wires were put under stress and pulled on.
@@whiplashtv2022 being under stress was my 2nd though. I probably shouldn't have done this job in 106 degree weather 😰
I'll let you know when I figure it out.
👍🏻👍🏻
Just did this to my 05 Tahoe. I had around 25psi at idle and 40 max and lifter chatter almost constantly. Now it’s quiet as a mouse and idles at 50psi and up to 80psi under load.
Awesome!!!
My 05 sierra 2WD has 190K miles on it...
Im gonna do this job and will obviously change the oil.
Should i get the thicker oil or stick to what it should be?
I know some people say to add thicker oil at some point in the trucks life but dont know if thats a good thing.
I personally run a slightly thicker oil. Around a 10-30 to 10-40 in general
@@whiplashtv2022 Thank you for that....I will do the same
@BayCreeper1 you’re welcome
Thanks for this video! Just decided to replace mine and it was nice knowing exactly what tools were needed so I didn’t have to keep climbing out from under the truck. Also bumped my pressure back up to 45ish.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching.
Nice video I'm about to do it to my 07 sierra classic just one question wouldn't it be able to be using water to clean those parts ?
I did use hot soapy water to clean some parts in the video.
I changed my oring it was fine for a little while then it went back to itself again. I have a video on it if you want to look at it
Interesting
@@whiplashtv2022 agreed. I’m going to run some transmission fluid through the engine for a couple days, since I don’t drive many miles. Maybe 5 miles a day, to work and back, probably a clog
👍🏻
I changed mine, while replacing leaking pan gasket. at 272k, the inside looked really good for mileage. Cleaned every thing including pickup tube and screen. Put every thing back together, waited 24 hrs for gasket sealer as per recommendations. Filled with oil . unplugged coils and no oil pressure at all. BRIEFLY started to a noisy engine which confirmed no oil pressure. Any ideas other than pulling it apart to confirm o-ring wasn't damaged ? I am an autobody tech , with mechanical training. I followed GM service procedures and did not use screw to force the tube in ect. I am surprised and confused. Could the oil pump lose enough oil in those 24 hrs to hinder pump from priming?
It should get prime back and show 3-5 psi on a scan tool while turning it over with coils unplugged. Since it had prime and some oil pressure before, I would be pulling it back apart and inspecting the oil pickup and o ring just to be sure that the o ring isn’t damaged or crooked.
I just bought a 2001 chevy tahoe 5.3 rwd and oh man i like the truck but it's been giving me a bunch of codes B2722, C0265 and P0332. The first two goes away by it self sometimes I erased the codes. The 3rd one is new. Is it worth replacing the body control module and EBCM?
P0332 is saying that the Knock Sensor 2 Bank 2 is sending a low reading to the pcm.
The B2722 is set when the when the signal circuit of the Tow/Haul switch is shorted to ground for approximately 3 minutes.
For the C0265 code, I would check the EBCM Ground.
@@whiplashtv2022 thanks i will try check the ground wires 👍
@@lanzonests you’re welcome
I got a question hopefully you see this. Got a 2011 Silverado 5.3 with the DOD. I replaced timing chain and oil pump year or so ago. And now out of no where when I start the engine it goes to roughly 20psi, then starts to go down till 0 and the display says shut engine off low oil pressure. You can turn off and start right back up and it goes back to 20 then slowly goes down. The truck never knocks at all making me think that it does in fact have oil pressure. Would this be the oil pressure sensor/switch? The screen under it? Or is this a bigger problem
I would check the oil pressure sensor and screen as well first.
Like he said replace oil pressure sending unit and the screen you must replace the screen or else it will not fix anything trust me I have multiple 5.3's and 3 6.2 denalis very common problem
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Since the rack and pinion needs to be dropped from it's mounting position to do this repair, did you have to get the front alignment done? Or is it fine to just bolt up it back up?
I didn’t get a front end alignment afterwards and didn’t have any steering issues. I just bolted it back up.
@@whiplashtv2022 Perfect, I have to replace the o-ring on my 2006 Silverado as well. Now I have the confidence to do it. Thanks for the reply.
You’re very welcome! You have got this!
Great video besides the music you randomly start playing at 100% volume
Now I don’t play the music at 100% since it is louder than the volume that my voice is recorded at. Thanks for watching.
Would this repair generally be the same on a 6.0 2500 Silverado 2WD?
Depending on the year model, yes it would be the same.